We can laugh about those nifty spatulas but the reach and its flexibility can save you when caulking the sinks, vanity or kitchen behind the faucet. Life saver. I carved my own out of wooden measuring tape. And once you hit the sweet spot after a while of use, all leftover silicone just curls on it so longer pull-strokes can be made without need to wipe off all the time. Go BRT, Go! 💪
0:36 if I had a dollar for every time I've had a trade say, "I've never had a callback for..." followed by a reason they are not doing something to code, I'd be a rich man. Houses move, settle, expand, and contract, and epoxy isn't going to do anything when the wall moves 1/8" and pops the joint. I've had this in my own home, and I didn't call the tile setter who did it to fix it.
I’ve never had(knock on wood) an epoxy corner fail in Los Angeles either. I really like the Bizazza product. To me it’s the most glass like. More so than Laticrete.
If silicone doesn't adhere to wet things, doesn't that mean the tile you spray will not allow the silicone to adhere to it at the edges of the joint when you spread the bead you just sprayed? Your final caulked joint is wider than the bead, and therefore the silicone spread across the windex-soaked tile when you used your joint tool.
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher My point was related to spraying the caulked bead before you tool it. Spraying the bead gets the surface touching the bead wet. Surface tension of the liquid will ensure it bridges the gap of the bead and the tile. _Then,_ tooling the bead pushes the bead out wider over the wet tile. Make sense?
Please watch "stop the myth" by youtuber The Aiden Project. Silicone is something i've researched alot, and no one seems to come to agreement. It is said you're not supposed to spray it (see video above), but using one of those amazon profilers leaves shine, and taping leaves an edge (it leaves a cheap look in addition of mold forming on the ledge). Using your finger leaves bacterica etc etc etc, it never ends. The method I concluded to be best is to use tape and do a rough wipe to remove excess with a soapy finger (both to kill bacteria and facilitate) and then once again lightly to knock the edge down. That being said, I never even tried this method and have up to now, sprayed all my silicone.
This product is top of the line . This is not a Home Depot item . We used this caulking in every corner inside the bath not by choice but by force . That’s the requirement from the architect
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher moisture gets trapped behind the silicone .. grout absorbs Moisture. The tile if porcelain is impervious to water .. I haven't had grout crack in corners using a membrane .. using hydroblock or similar not sure
Never pull your caulking gun, always push it fiorward. Never cut your tip at a 45, always at a 90*. this will force the cauling into the crack and make cleanup/smoothing easier and cleaner. there should be very little caulking being removed. As a plumber I have sealed many, many showers, tubs and sinks and always have a perfect outcome using these simle steps.
@nghtrdr You are very correct, I've been caulking for 40 years and always found this method had best results but then again I'm pretty sure he's showing DIYers how to do it since our method does take some time to master.
We can laugh about those nifty spatulas but the reach and its flexibility can save you when caulking the sinks, vanity or kitchen behind the faucet. Life saver. I carved my own out of wooden measuring tape. And once you hit the sweet spot after a while of use, all leftover silicone just curls on it so longer pull-strokes can be made without need to wipe off all the time. Go BRT, Go! 💪
0:36 if I had a dollar for every time I've had a trade say, "I've never had a callback for..." followed by a reason they are not doing something to code, I'd be a rich man. Houses move, settle, expand, and contract, and epoxy isn't going to do anything when the wall moves 1/8" and pops the joint. I've had this in my own home, and I didn't call the tile setter who did it to fix it.
What’s your water/vinegar ratio for spraying caulk
Most post I see says to silicone over grout opposed to grout over silicone. Do you ALWAYS silicone 1st?
Whats the purpose of using water and vinegar?
How's the water draining from thst seat?
Any concern of trapping water behind silicone with larger tiles and a tub shower?
I’ve never had(knock on wood) an epoxy corner fail in Los Angeles either. I really like the Bizazza product. To me it’s the most glass like. More so than Laticrete.
I’ve never even heard of it….ill have to check it out 👍
If silicone doesn't adhere to wet things, doesn't that mean the tile you spray will not allow the silicone to adhere to it at the edges of the joint when you spread the bead you just sprayed? Your final caulked joint is wider than the bead, and therefore the silicone spread across the windex-soaked tile when you used your joint tool.
Correct, which is why I recommend caulking shower base first and work your way up 👍
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher My point was related to spraying the caulked bead before you tool it. Spraying the bead gets the surface touching the bead wet. Surface tension of the liquid will ensure it bridges the gap of the bead and the tile. _Then,_ tooling the bead pushes the bead out wider over the wet tile. Make sense?
Please watch "stop the myth" by youtuber The Aiden Project.
Silicone is something i've researched alot, and no one seems to come to agreement. It is said you're not supposed to spray it (see video above), but using one of those amazon profilers leaves shine, and taping leaves an edge (it leaves a cheap look in addition of mold forming on the ledge). Using your finger leaves bacterica etc etc etc, it never ends.
The method I concluded to be best is to use tape and do a rough wipe to remove excess with a soapy finger (both to kill bacteria and facilitate) and then once again lightly to knock the edge down. That being said, I never even tried this method and have up to now, sprayed all my silicone.
This product is top of the line . This is not a Home Depot item . We used this caulking in every corner inside the bath not by choice but by force . That’s the requirement from the architect
I can’t find the nifty spatula set with belt clip on the website, which set or product is that, can you link ?
208D Octogun - bit.ly/3Nkgtx1
Pocket Slix Pouch - bit.ly/3YkcG9t
Slix Handle - bit.ly/3Y4bK7C
If you used water proof membrane the silicone will mold within months
Interesting 🤔 haven’t seen that in all the years I’ve done this 👍
Silicone≠caulk often referred to as the same but very different properties.
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher moisture gets trapped behind the silicone .. grout absorbs Moisture. The tile if porcelain is impervious to water .. I haven't had grout crack in corners using a membrane .. using hydroblock or similar not sure
Never pull your caulking gun, always push it fiorward. Never cut your tip at a 45, always at a 90*. this will force the cauling into the crack and make cleanup/smoothing easier and cleaner. there should be very little caulking being removed. As a plumber I have sealed many, many showers, tubs and sinks and always have a perfect outcome using these simle steps.
Never ever, always & perfect 👍
@nghtrdr You are very correct, I've been caulking for 40 years and always found this method had best results but then again I'm pretty sure he's showing DIYers how to do it since our method does take some time to master.
Been a caulk doctor 30 years.
Let her squeeze the tip😂
😎🛠️😎🛠️😎
4:48 tile cuts not looking good not professional after taking out a template 🙃
Link to your video?