Great photography! I have seldom seen such professional lighting; makes viewing really enjoyable. Your editing is also exception. Looking forward to the rest of this project.😊 Jnra
Thank you! I’m finding I’m enjoying learning about the photography and editing as much as learning about cars. I’m using Adobe Premiere Pro for the editing software. Thanks for watching!
Patience is definetly a virtue when working on these old cars. Heat and pentrating oil will save you a world of headaches as you learned. I like to try and clean the exposed threads before removing a nut or bolt if at all possible with a wire wheel or brush. That helps once you break it loose. Of course that is not always possible. Good work! enjoying watching the progress.
Did that to a 65 back in 1974, though suspension differs. made a throwout bearing noise, but with the clutch released. It was the bolts behind the flywheel holding the bell housing onto the engine. the loose bolts rubbed the flywheel.
Great job, I'm sure you learned a lot!! High pressure is not necessary for cleaning. Use plenty of degreaser, Sam's Club has a very good purple one, cheap by the gallon. Scrape off the heavy crud first. Putty knives and plastic scrapers work well. You can get 90% off and brush it away. Get a regular parts brush and old tooth brush. Work through grime a layer at a time. Rinses away easily. You'll be eating off the engine, without the huge mess of greasy spray all over everything.
These are good tips and you should see me trying to employ them in an upcoming video with the engine out of the car. That Purple stuff is pretty good I found out. Thanks for watching!
I know it’s too late now, but they make water-proof/exterior painters tape. Works great. In case you ever need it in the future. I used it when I thought I had a sunroof leak. Turned out to be the windshield gasket. But it did its job and helped me troubleshoot the issue.
Oh... What a strange car to remove the engine from... I'm posting this before watching to say... I'd be pulling the CV axles first and then staring at it to decide if it needs to go up, or down out of the car... I've pulled a VW bug engine before, a smaller, similar horizontally opposed engine. The VW bug / bus engines always go down. It's easy because the car weighs about as much as a wet paper bag and one or two people can just pick the car up and shove it forward like a wheel barrow, but I have never worked on a Corvair before. I respect your dedication to this project and your willingness to do what needs to be done, keep up the great work!
Many parallels between the Corvair and the Beetle for sure. Don't think the Corvair would be quite as easy to lift and move like a wheel barrow lol. Thanks for your comment and for watching!
@@lostwrenchgarage They're not super heavy but yeah, it'd take a few more people to lift that car up than a beetle to say the least. I'm kinda scared what you're gonna find when you dig into the rust though, good luck and keep up the great work!
This is a super exposition of what its like working on a car that has been sat for years. Following these principals anybody can remove the parts and the engine whether it be a Corvair or not. Great job of doing all that without shearing any bolts or studs. Look forward to your next videos.
Love watching your ‘63 Corvair Spyder videos. I’ve seen three of them so far. I have a non-running ‘64 Corvair Spyder Convertible 4-speed in my garage getting way too little attention from me. You’re inspiring me to get after it. I work on lots of newer cars (I’m a very accomplished shade tree mechanic), but my Spyder (her name is Jennifer) is getting jealous. I’d post a picture of her if I can figure out how.
I took your advice the other day when I repeated the pressure washing with the engine on the table and used a wider nozzle. I think it was helpful. I'll look for Purple Power too. Thanks!
8:11 even the cheapest at harbor freight is rated for 1 us ton, pulling it on smooth flat concrete isnt stressing any part of that out enough to be a huge concern unless you have such little confedence in your attachment point. Not best practice to be right there but everything is situation dependant.
Top is 24”x30” and it’s rated for 400lbs. My research indicates the engine with standard transmission weighs 330lbs. I noticed with the casters turned in the same direction on one side the legs begin to skew a bit. So it’s adequate but near the limit. Would also go with a lower table for added stability and ease of working on it.
Rear engine mount bolts are grade eight, I would be tempted to go to larger bolts. Vacuum control on distributor is spryer only backs timing when boost is on. Also had throttle cut wide open. Linkage falls off and is spring loaded open. Johnfweis@icloud.com 21:44
Great photography! I have seldom seen such professional lighting; makes viewing really enjoyable. Your editing is also exception. Looking forward to the rest of this project.😊 Jnra
Thank you! I’m finding I’m enjoying learning about the photography and editing as much as learning about cars. I’m using Adobe Premiere Pro for the editing software. Thanks for watching!
Patience is definetly a virtue when working on these old cars. Heat and pentrating oil will save you a world of headaches as you learned. I like to try and clean the exposed threads before removing a nut or bolt if at all possible with a wire wheel or brush. That helps once you break it loose. Of course that is not always possible. Good work! enjoying watching the progress.
Good advice! Thanks for watching!
Did that to a 65 back in 1974, though suspension differs. made a throwout bearing noise, but with the clutch released. It was the bolts behind the flywheel holding the bell housing onto the engine. the loose bolts rubbed the flywheel.
I'm right behind you. What started as a valve job has morphed into an engine swap. :)
Great job, I'm sure you learned a lot!! High pressure is not necessary for cleaning. Use plenty of degreaser, Sam's Club has a very good purple one, cheap by the gallon. Scrape off the heavy crud first. Putty knives and plastic scrapers work well. You can get 90% off and brush it away. Get a regular parts brush and old tooth brush. Work through grime a layer at a time. Rinses away easily. You'll be eating off the engine, without the huge mess of greasy spray all over everything.
These are good tips and you should see me trying to employ them in an upcoming video with the engine out of the car. That Purple stuff is pretty good I found out. Thanks for watching!
Make sure you replace the bearings on the axle shafts. If they fail, the axle will come out while you are going down the road! These are fun videos !
Great advice! Plan to replace pretty much everything on this car. Thanks for watching!
@lostwrenchgarage you're welcome!😊
Getting all the shrouds off and replaced correctly is key to the cooling just like cleaning the cylinder fins and oil cooler !!
Great point!
I know it’s too late now, but they make water-proof/exterior painters tape. Works great. In case you ever need it in the future. I used it when I thought I had a sunroof leak. Turned out to be the windshield gasket. But it did its job and helped me troubleshoot the issue.
Thanks for the tip!
Kroil is your friend. also PB Blaster.
Oh... What a strange car to remove the engine from... I'm posting this before watching to say... I'd be pulling the CV axles first and then staring at it to decide if it needs to go up, or down out of the car... I've pulled a VW bug engine before, a smaller, similar horizontally opposed engine. The VW bug / bus engines always go down. It's easy because the car weighs about as much as a wet paper bag and one or two people can just pick the car up and shove it forward like a wheel barrow, but I have never worked on a Corvair before. I respect your dedication to this project and your willingness to do what needs to be done, keep up the great work!
Many parallels between the Corvair and the Beetle for sure. Don't think the Corvair would be quite as easy to lift and move like a wheel barrow lol. Thanks for your comment and for watching!
@@lostwrenchgarage They're not super heavy but yeah, it'd take a few more people to lift that car up than a beetle to say the least. I'm kinda scared what you're gonna find when you dig into the rust though, good luck and keep up the great work!
This is a super exposition of what its like working on a car that has been sat for years.
Following these principals anybody can remove the parts and the engine whether it be a Corvair or not.
Great job of doing all that without shearing any bolts or studs. Look forward to your next videos.
Sadly I did shear off a number of bolts and studs before I started heating everything. Lesson learned! Thanks for watching!
Love watching your ‘63 Corvair Spyder videos. I’ve seen three of them so far. I have a non-running ‘64 Corvair Spyder Convertible 4-speed in my garage getting way too little attention from me. You’re inspiring me to get after it. I work on lots of newer cars (I’m a very accomplished shade tree mechanic), but my Spyder (her name is Jennifer) is getting jealous. I’d post a picture of her if I can figure out how.
Yeah get that Spyder going! Hopefully it’s got fewer issues than mine lol. Thanks for watching!
That seemed easy seen from my lazy chair. Nice content, looking forward to discover the state of the body
Haha it could have been worse for sure. I'm a bit scared to explore the body. Not sure what all is lurking in there. We'll see! Thanks for watching!
Love the content. Inspires me to work on my Corvair. Early Spyder vert. What a cool find. Thanks for keeping us Corvair fans entertained.
Cool-- yeah get out there and turn some wrenches! These cars are fun to work on. Thanks for watching!
Heat and pb blaster when removing old bolts
Great job ! As always liked and shared. Looking forward to the next video.
Thank you so much!
Cleaning engines use a wide fan nozzle and less pressure. Purple power full strength is a good degreaser and cheap.👍
I took your advice the other day when I repeated the pressure washing with the engine on the table and used a wider nozzle. I think it was helpful. I'll look for Purple Power too. Thanks!
8:11 even the cheapest at harbor freight is rated for 1 us ton, pulling it on smooth flat concrete isnt stressing any part of that out enough to be a huge concern unless you have such little confedence in your attachment point. Not best practice to be right there but everything is situation dependant.
I got away with it. I might have to look for a better method going forward.
The bolts that sheared are the upper rear engine mount boltss. You removed the lower ones.
i also have a 63 spyder turbo convertable
Cool. Good job.
Thanks!
You can get a remote for your winch
Is that blower motor and ducting to cool the turbo?
It’s the cabin heater. It pulls hot air from around the engine.
What size was the cart you purchased from Amazon weight capacity band meessurements
Top is 24”x30” and it’s rated for 400lbs. My research indicates the engine with standard transmission weighs 330lbs. I noticed with the casters turned in the same direction on one side the legs begin to skew a bit. So it’s adequate but near the limit. Would also go with a lower table for added stability and ease of working on it.
@@lostwrenchgarage Thanks for the info
15:12 Force x Distance again.
Physics! 👍🏼
Rear engine mount bolts are grade eight, I would be tempted to go to larger bolts. Vacuum control on distributor is spryer only backs timing when boost is on. Also had throttle cut wide open. Linkage falls off and is spring loaded open. Johnfweis@icloud.com 21:44
The first thing dumb is to start with a corvair that was a nice car in its day but old was quick w them even new
Get some kroile or wd40 for them bolts that should save a lot of them
Are those your gf's good towels??
Haha! She doesn't tell me where the good towels are!
heard of clarks corvair . they have everything corvair. google it
Yes! Fantastic resource. Thanks for watching!