Wiring in Engine Bay
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- Опубликовано: 15 ноя 2024
- Neglecting the wiring is something most of us (including me) are guilty of doing. Let's talk about some of the things we can do to cleanup our engine bays.
The car is a 1966 Mustang Fastback with a factory V8 and T5 transmission.
Shot with GoPro Hero 8 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 17.
Credit for the music in the video:
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Epidemic Sound
Try it today! www.epidemicso...
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#kruseview
#Mustang
#1966
#Fastback
In the process offing this myself! Just need to lock in all my electrical first - great video as always
You can do it! I clearly have a bit of work to do, but I'll get there. :)
6:40 fuel line routing, believe it or not, that metal fuel line touching the rubber heater hose will cause problems. It heats the fuel in the line causing expansion and a vapor lock, engine will run poorly, sputter or worse die, and not restart until the engine/fuel in that line has cooled again. I had a car that would do that, mysteriously die when warm, and it was as simple as tweeting, bending that metal line away from the hot rubber heater/radiator hose.
Thanks for the heads up.
I've got a MSD AL6 box on the shock tower next to the solenoid. So you've got the alternator battery solenoid and al6 box all within a 2 ft radius. I really need to take that al6 box out disconnect everything and rewire it. On another wiring note I got some wire loom from Amazon it's like a plastic weave. It split down the middle and comes in long rolls so you can just wrap it over your existing wiring. It works similar to the corrugated plastic wire loom but it doesn't fall apart after being exposed to heat for a while.
Yes, I've got that wire loom all over the engine bay. :)
All good points on the wiring! Brother... Please trim the upper radiator hose clamps excess @ the rad. I'm thinking 4-8 stiches or a half of tube of supper glue for the carnage they could cause. 😆
You're absolutely correct, I put on that second clamp because the hose is old and leaking, but the second clamp stopped it (both ends of that hose). I know the hoses are cheap, and I'm guilty of doing the opposite of what I was talking about in this video. I plan to upgrade the Rad, so the hoses will get replaced then and it will be all good. :)
Your ground should go from the battery to the engine. Then from the back of the engine to the firewall. I’m not sure it’s a good idea to have the battery ground to fender. I believe it’s best to keep the grounds as simple and in a loop. Battery to engine, engine to firewall. Additional grounds to the battery can cause added loops which can cause potential issues.
Not understanding your comment about grounding from the starter solenoid to the engine, but everything else makes sense. I need to get in there and clean things up to match with what I was preaching. It'll happen, but probably not as fast as it should be. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Edited the first comment.
When you changed your air filter from stock to this open filter style......did you have to go with an electrical choke? The factory chokes have all sorts of heat sources going to them. Eliminating the factory air cleaner would eliminate some of the heat sources. Just curious.
When I got this car, the heat tube for the stock carb was not connected and so the choke never worked properly. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel makes sense to go electric at that point. My heat tube is still intact in perfect condition. I may just leave it factory. Thanks.
I see an American Autowire Harnesses in your future.
I like the sound of that, re-wiring this car is on my wish list.
Great video keep it up
Thanks, will do! :)
I have a ground on my 65 from battery to engine block and engine to firewall. Do I need more?
There is a point of diminishing returns, but I don’t know where it is. I’d same two ground wires should be the minimum, but I also think five is more than enough. 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel so what would recommend I add? Battery to chassis like you have? I feel as if I’m dealing with a small ground issue so any recommendations are appreciated
@@AndyKruseChannel is your battery to fender you had in the video considered to chassis? Is that the same as going to the frame?
In a perfect world, I'd do one from the sheet metal of the car (close to the battery) to the negative terminal. One wire from the front of the block/heads to the negative terminal. One wire from the back of the block/heads to the firewall. And maybe one from the driver side of the block/heads to the shock tower (or sheet metal near by). Ideally all the wires are 4 gauge or bigger (8 ga. might be too small).
Yes, the wire from the negative terminal to the fender is "the chassis". All the metal in this car is connected to each other, so connecting to any metal surface (frame, fender, firewall, etc) is "grounding to the chassis". :)
Nice video. Heater is bypassed? Any plan to get that working or know why it was disconnected?
Thanks!
Yes and No. I don't drive the car in weather where the heater would be needed (except for that one time......), but I don't think I want to pull the whole system from the car. While the hose is not hooked up, the fan doesn't work either, so there could be quite a bit of work to get that up and running. It's on the list, but much further down. :)
I hate my heater hoses but I like that if need be I have a bit more cooling capacity.
Hey Andy
Any plans to up grade to EFI or one wire Alternator?
I like the idea of EFI, but the entry fee is holding me back as I have other goodies I'd rather buy right now. A new alternator is coming, but I stuck with the 3-wire setup for now, but I don't really have an excuse why except I just didn't want to do the research into what it takes to make the switch. I'm sure it's easy, it just wasn't a priority of mine. :)