How To Braze Copper Pipe Like A Pro (HVAC Refrigerant Lines)
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- Опубликовано: 30 апр 2024
- Step by step tutorial on how to braze copper pipe like a pro! We will be brazing or silver soldering refrigerant A/C lines for HVAC equipment! Thank for you watching & enjoy
TurboTorch Kit X-4B (A/C & Refrigeration kit)
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Diversitech Heat Resistant Cloth 18x18 (Flame Barrier Drop Cloth Up To 3,000 Degrees F.)
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Spark Lighter W/5 Extra Flints For Lighting Torch
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Deburring Tool (Aluminum, Copper, Brass & Plastic)
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4 in 1 Plumbers Brush (Copper Pipe Sanding Brush)
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Emery Cloth (Roll of Sandpaper)
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Rigid Tubing Cutter (1/8"-5/8")
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Rigid Tubing Cutter (1/4"- 1 1/8")
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Rigid Tubing Cutter (1/4"- 1 3/8")
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Rigid Tubing Cutter (1/4"- 1 7/8")
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Rigid Tubing Cutter (1/4"- 2 5/8")
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► Music Credit: Dj Quads
Track Name: "www is a thing"
Music By: Dj Quads @ / aka-dj-quads
Original upload HERE - www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cqqU...
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Enjoyed watching this. In 1970 I commenced work as a refrigeration engineer and stayed in the industry for 14 years. Left and went on to other things. Have not brazed a joint since 1984! It hasn’t changed a bit in all that time. That was in the days before even mobile phones. Electronic instruments and controls were just being seen in the industry for the first time as I was leaving. From speaking to friends still in the industry and now at the end of their careers biggest changes seem to be the types of refrigerants (almost exclusively R12, 22 and 502 in those days), electronic and computerised controls and scroll compressors. Pleased I got out of the industry mind. Sometimes nostalgia kicks in but for the most part pleased with the choices I made. Thank you for the video.
What did you leave for? I'm interested.
@@TheBlank1Ne well I could see then that i might struggle physically with the demands of the work when I got older. I left the industry at 28 years of age and I was looking at men in their 50’s struggling to do the work. So I got out, studied at University and changed career to law. I am still working full time now and I am 67 entirely from home. Planning to retire next year but from choice, not because I can’t cope with the work. For me it was definitely a good choice to make. So I was coping no problem as a 28 year old but could see that would change as I got older.
The key to brazing in refrigeration is to get the joint hot quickly ( not red hot ) and fill it quickly. If you were to get a service valve, reversing valve, or TXV this hot, it would be ruined.
Agreed. There are a few options out there but I'm weary about some of them. The "cool gel" type products tend to work pretty well. I usually try to wrap a wet rag around the sensitive components. But brazing the suction line into an air handler is always a little scary for me because it's so close to everything else. Oxygen Acetylene works great to heat up quickly, but I rather use Acetylene. Just figuring out how to protect the components can get tricky.
I work well outside the scope of welding in commercial roofing. It's a healthy endeavor to at least have a curiousity to what some of our brothers and sisters in other trades do in contribution to our projects. Thank you for sharing knowledge.
This is brazing buddy not welding, there's a huge difference between the two. But, more power to you for being a roofer, one of the most underpaid and dangerous jobs to ever have! 💪🏼
Thanks. My first braze worked out great after viewing your tutorial. Previously I was not preparing the surfaces correctly and the pipes were not hot enough. I really had to heat them longer than expected using MAP gas.
Dammit, I am seeing your comment one year later and wonder if your equipment lasted this long if you followed this idiots directions. Never got your pipe cherry red unless you don’t like the people your doing the work for.
no drifting with nitro? leaves a-lot of suet inside the pipe and can clog your metering device.
I like your video, nice production. I just have a few notes. First, there was no mention of any nitrogen. Nitrogen is necessary to prevent the oxidation of the copper during the brazing process. The particles left behind, especially on very sensitive newer equipment can eventually lead to an obstruction like oil pooling in condenser coil or blocked TXV or piston. Second, prepping the copper correctly helps ensure a proper weld (add a bit more info for the beginners).
Third, I liked the way you ensured a solid weld around the piping. I did notice that you had you stick bent allowing for about 1" of rod. Example, allow 2-4" of round off your coupling. Use the rule of thumb, if your nail can get caught on the joint, round it off more rod. Lastly, always heat the copper at the fitting not the pie going into fitting, this really helps. Especially with vertical braze joints. Good video, we all are learning each day!
This guy knows what he's talking about. Can confirm
heating the fitting is BS. the fitting will glow red hot Way before the pipe. in vertical situation you can add a little heat to the fitting so it soaks up better.
everything else is good/usable information.
@@casemodder89 I should have stated to start heating at the fitting. Nice catch!
I used to love brazing, its a strong and very satisfying welding procedure that once mastered you can keep perfecting. Haven't done it at all for many years.
Try moving your heat off of the pipe and towards the bottom of the cup. You should be filling that cup, then draw the flame back and cap the joint so you can not see the lip.
gold!
Yup! Bad shoulder. He ain’t “brazing like a pro”
You mean the bell not cup
He definitely means cup aka fitting lingo is lingo but a perfect braze and a good braze are 2 different things and this ant it
Love this! Beautiful. And I dig the music. I will be making a table and I'm excited to do some brazing with the copper pipe. Thank you.
Amana says not to use flux when brazing. The flux mixes with the refrigerant oil and forms an acid that compromises TXV and compressor.
For dissimilar metals only-do.your research.
Good tutorial. I've been in HVACR many years and never used acetylene without oxygen so I can't opinion on whether is better but it appears that the pipe is a little bit hotter than it needs to be. Okay for pipe to pipe connections but maybe too long and too hot for heat sensitive connections like reversing valves, TXV's, service valves etc. even though a heat block paste or damp rag is implemented. I use 15% brazing rod and I find it flows much better than 5% at a lower heat. I did learn that I don't clean my copper as well as I should. Lol...
Wow 🤩 there’s too many PRO commenting, but no body got the BALLS 🏀 to do a video. Great job folks. Let’s a praise the algorithm for bringing us all together again
If no-brazing fitting which can be used for connecting service valve is released, do you have a intention of purchasing them?
how much is proper to purchase.
Nicely made video dude, just a couple things to improve on in my opinion. Cherry red tends to be too hot for a quality joint, as you run the risk of porous braze joints. Preheat your female fitting to a dull red, and start to feed the brazing alloy in using the heat of the copper to melt the alloy. Flux is a must on dissimilar metal joints, and I suggest using 15% silver alloy for copper to copper. 45% for copper to brass etc. plus flux.
purely gold
In fairness, he mentioned flux for dissimilar metals
Hi,
What brazing rods are they.
Thanks for the effort
made it look so simple. Thank you
To all the pros here, I am a beginner in brazing. I have been wonder what will happen to the brazing joint after a certain of time exposed to the environment? I used a copper-based brazing alloy as the filler metal to join two pieces of carbon steel plate. What is the possible failure that may occur on the brazed plate?
It gets tricky binding ferrous and non ferrous metals. Just make sure everything is CLEAN PRIOR TO BRAZE. A bit more info on the actual rod used could provide a better answer to your question.
When cleaning the burr the copper line must be tilted down so the burr doesn't get inside the tube. The tiniest amount will become a restriction. When brazing you should purge with nitrogen otherwise the scale produced inside the tube will mix it today's refrigerant oils causing restriction and or attach the compressor winding's..It should also be mentioned to use minimum 5% silver upwards to 15% silver content solder when welding air conditioning and refrigeration copper ..
0% is also acceptable.
OB Wan, you have a pretty good understanding, and you have a descent description (that you give here within). I would agree that 5% to 15% silver content brazing rod [not solder(ing)] and it is not welding (it's brazing).
THank you for the lesson..
Thank you for watching! I really appreicate your feedback and support! Love the name Loony Poison 😂👍 Stay tuned for weekly uploads!
I always put a big puddle on the top and heat the bottom of the joint and run the braze down to seal the bottoms
So, would it be a similar setup for brazing two stainless steel exhaust pipes together? Using silver solder.
Thanks for the video. I'm a pipefitter who is transitioning into a job that is still pipefitting but more refrigeration related. I was a little nervous about my brazing skills, but I liked the way you bent that sil fos. I'll probably watch it a few more times just to get a feel for where you are putting your heat when you are melting your rod
I needed ver little for a single job, so bought some on eBay. I never noticed at first but as many small stuff, comes in broken packages. I saw the stamping on one or two that looked like “Sil-Fos” or similar. Used two maybe but while wrapping for storage, the others were not stamped or marked in any fashion. I am sure analysis would show no silver content.
What did Ben Franklin day? Buyer beware? I’m sure I got shorted. So ask, take a photo of response and same after it arrives and set time/date code on photos as depending on size/amount/cost, they let you keep it and re-send new.
Appreciate the video,
How you doing can you make a video where a copper tube is cracked millimetres from the compressor shell where its leaking oil and needs to be filled with the special welding rod...and what material to use..thnks
I am from India and I completed my engineering recently. I am preparing for the entrance exam for my masters. Today I studied the topic of Brazing. Thanks for this video.
Nice information in this. thanks brother, much appreciated.
One small critique if I may. If you hold the inner flame on the joint it will heat much more efficiently and move the flame in toward the fitting as the filler follows the heat. You don’t need so much on the pipe. Also, that long under the torch seems to weaken the fitting to a degree that it easily collapses at the slightest torque
The reason the fitting collapses is because heating it cherry red and allowing it to cool annuals the metal and makes it soft. If you heat it and then hit it with a cold rag quickly, it will harden again. This is tricky as a guy in the field probably isn't controlling the temperature that accurately and quenching improperly can create cracks and internal stresses.
Jeff Peterson but quenching can cause cracks in the filler and leak
@@jeffpeterson1331aa+❤z3❤are ru fy9t9tr9lttottg6y5
Im not really an expert, but I agree. The heat draws the solder or braze in. Some of what happened here just layed more filler on yop, improving the look, but didn't likely travel in to where it counts. The idea is to work the torch to evenly heat the assembly and 123 add braze so it runs in. In some ways you only have one shot to really nail it perfect. Will still hold, but you'll have added twice the filler. Most will just be laying on top.
The teacher said something similar. Apply heat to the back of the fitting so the solder chases the heat. Got my first brazing copper project tomorrow.
Thank you we love it!
May I know this welding machine is being sold where I live in Saudi Arabia
Excellent workmanship and skill complimented by superb videography. Thanks.
Not excellent. You should know.
Good video, but if you cut that joint in half, you will find flakes of contaminants on it from exposure to the air - bad news for orifices. An inert gas in the pipe while brazing will prevent the contamination by shielding it from the air.
Not a good video.
Hi! I brazed pipes 2 years back (compressor of my fiesge gave up so I replaced it myself). I noticed the joint/seal is showing signs of giving up... Is it safe to pump the gas out of the compressor and redo the soldering? Thanks!
Which torch are you using, are you using any other gas along acetylene?
Could I braze the vertical pipe first? then after that I rotate the pipe 90 degrees, and make the horizontal one to vertical, then braze it? because I think when braze the vertical one, the melt metal will go down into the gap between the pipes it will make the join much stronger. Thank you for sharing!
Get a professional please.
I've done this a few times on ac lines. Have the burn scars to prove it 🙂 I f I d it very stressful but the more I do it the more relaxed I feel. Is there any limit to how many times you can go back and touch up the joint. What if the joint has already cooled down.
It's like welding..you'll just be adding to what has been done.
Fluid motion is key
No more than two times.
What turbo torch tip size did you use ?
This helped a lot thank you
After braze if want braze again what should i do 1st. Becoz after every time i brazing when ever i tried to braze again its not easy task for me. Should i use flux after 1st attempt
What about a convoluted or spiral HVAC tube?
Do you ever have to work outside for stuff like this? I'm interested in pipefitting. (From Phoenix)
rene L I’m working on a pipe fitting job right now at a data center and we are outside working on unit’s . It’s new construction. As a pipe fitter you will be in many different environments from outside to indoors good luck pipe fitting is great career and fun
All the time.
I joined the union here in Houston and honestly it’s good work but I chose to take the service route instead of pipe fitting. You get laid off in construction from what I hear unless of course you’ve been around and know what you’re doing then you get to move on to another project
Most definitely all the time
Nice job, thank you.
Hey I like ur video ,
I was looking for the link to the rods u were melting? Do u have it ?
So, would you say slow air cooling after brazing??? is better
Do I understand correctly that you use acetylene due to higher hit density? I.e. to hit the joint quicker as as little heat as possible dissipating into the length of the pipe?
Thanks for sharing this video
You're very welcome & thank you for watching! I appreciate the feedback🙂 Stay safe out there & stay tuned for new videos!
So no movement to facilitate capillary action? This looks nice on the surface but I would recommend travelling the heat down a little to form a much taller seal internally.
Michael Garcia I was thinking the same thing
Brazing seals the outside. If you get inside the lines u have a problem! It doesnt take much....
@@Progress24.7 wrong.
So I am able to use the benzomatic torch you get at Home Depot? I'm doing my own ac repair and would rather not buy that expensive torch if I can avoid it.
Can we use the flux we use for electric cable soldering if we do not have handy copper tubing flux (for one single joint) ? Thanks.
No! Do not do that! The joint won't last as long and is more prone to leak on 1st pressure test!
I have a question every brazing kit I see uses oxygen with mapp , which is better acetylene only or using oxygen and MAPP, I have never braised plenty a soldering, but never braised
Tried to use a brazing rod for the first time but the Butane Propane mixed gas is not getting the copper pipe Cherry red, from what I’ve seen online the gas will reach 1300° C and the brazing rod melts at 710° C, so have no idea what is going on.
Any ideas would be great, The only thing I think I can put it down to is the touch head as it has no adjustment for the flame 🔥
that tested in lab. In real life heat dispersed very fast so it got be much hotter to work well
Flux is bad for refrigeration, and you should run low pressure nitrogen through the pipe while brazing
SIRUS tone exactly
You realize it’s just a demo not a full process. Make your own video and do it right
Why exactly is flux bad for refrigeration? Just curious. I see it used when bonding unlike metals such as brass/copper. I agree with the nitrogen but this is just one method and the method used most. Let's get real, the guys in the field wont lug a nitro tank with them along with their B tanks all the time. Thanks for watching!
@@whit6282 Seriously lol I agree with the nitrogen part but this is just one method and the method used most. Thanks for watching!
@@JumpermanTech if you was a hvac tech and told me you wouldnt carry nitrogen with your torches to install my refrigeration lines id send you packing thats what causes all kinds of burnouts and txv problems
Correct me if I'm wrong but he was absolutely using the flame at a few points to melt the brazing rod, right?
You should ad more weld on the joins to fill it up properly because of high pressure oparation. it's very good though.. but not perfect. (I am a tough judge, sorry)
Sir mene naya AC liya he isame Indore me upar vali koyal bara bar thandi ho rahi he lekin niche vali koyal bahot der bad thodi hi thabdi ho rahi he is liye cooling kam milati he to please koi upay batavo delere koi javab nahi deta he please koi upay batavo
will this copper self fluc rod polish to a proper copper color after sanding?
No, it will not.
My friend is HVAC.
He is adamant that you do not need flux and he uses silver rods to braze 35mm pipe that they form their own sockets on.
The rods contain phosphor which acts as a flux within the rod. Is this correct?
Without the phosphor the joint would not work. Is this true?
Thank you for the video
Is nitrogen necessary when brazing hvac lines? Would I harm my system if I decided braze without nitrogen?
Yes (to both of your questions).
Asking as a regular home owner; why for A/C lines do you use brazing rods instead of solder like used in plumbing for water?
The A\C system runs at far more higher pressure so all the joints on the system should have higher temperature resistance and stronger connection.
I'm learning to braze at my new job. They use oxy-acetylene. Is there a benefit to using only acetylene? Also, reading the comments, it seems there is much more to brazing than maybe even the guys at work know. We just build chiller units.
If you are in a shop environment oxy-acetylene is probably better. A turbo torch can efficiently braze up to around 2 inch copper with the right tip. The real advantage is if you are lugging everything to a roof, one tank is lighter than two tanks. If you need to heat quickly, like a reversing valve, oxy-acetylene is the way to go.
Oxy is just faster but you can blow a hole in the pipe pretty quickly if you aren't careful.
Benefits for both processes.
I’m a sophomore in hvac at a trade school and I’m wondering if you can use a small butane torch to solder in tight situations?
I don't think butane or propane burns hot enough. But I've seen where MAP-pro gas with a turbo torch will get the job done.
Can you show how to do it in real live? Inside of the walls,old constructions attics 7/8 line set?
I'm actually recording a video as well speak on how to do that except I will be soldering. You can apply the same principals shown in that video for brazing in a tight space. It will be released most likely tomorrow. Subscribe for more tips/tricks and stay tuned for new videos every week!
Go to school and learn how to do this properly.
I have 12 ft type L 7/8" ACR copper pipe lying around. Can I use this for general home plumbing applications? P.S. It takes a lot of time and effort to make helpful videos. I thank you for your time.
Great job 👏👍👌
What is the advantage of brazing over soldering which is much simpler and less demanding?
Brazing is stronger and more heat and vibration resistant.
I see everyone using the turbo torch inside. How well does it hold up in the wind with the heat?
So whats the plan to get the metal chips from the deburring tool out of the pipe?
in the real world any debris left in the system will be strained out. for years ive seen people blow out holes for O-lets on steam lines and just let them fall into the system. its something I don't practice but i've seen some terrible habits in the real world.
Nice Job
Thank you very much Jamal! Your feedback is very much appreciated. Stay tuned for new videos every week & stay safe out there✌
@@JumpermanTech I do not know if you can see my profile picture but that is me passing my large bore (6" & 8") med gas brazing certification test.
air-acetylene is common in hvac in the us because it means you only have to haul 1 tank up the ladder to the roof, but it's not great for everything. i used to service small appliances like air conditioners, refrigerators and dehumidifiers where the tubing is very small, the working clearances are very tight and many times the units are made of plastic that you can't easily shield from heat. in those cases a small oxyacetylene setup with small tips and special tips like the uniweld cap'n-hook work much better because you can braze the joint very quickly without setting things on fire or melting them.
I like to carry around about a 12"x12" piece of 26ga sheet metal for tight spaces or plastic units. If you leave a burn mark through the sheet metal then you left the flame in 1 position for waaaay too long.
Air-fuel is a better way to go on smaller copper to copper.
Y’all use brazing rings? I work on a navy vessel just started brazing
In the industry we use a Oxy/acetylene kit, the only place we use a B tank with turbo torch is on open lineset mostly in commercial refrigeration.
Also use a silfos alloy and not some cheap silver.
Don't heat the cupling first, always the pipe first so the silfos stick to the pipe then heat the fitting to penetrate.
Flux is used when you use different metal and also when reusing old piping.
Damn I need a mentor in hvac 😪 is there a vid on how to braze less that an inch copper pipping and the tools needed for that? also can you show us how to braze pack-less valves, or txvs onto a system? ☺️ ugh I have a lot of questions 🤦🏻♂️
Thanks, this was very useful!
Demasiado calor para una pequeña y simple soldadura
A spray bottle before the rag works great also. 👍
Nice work brazing is an art!
Thank you!
I’d like to see the joint cut open. I like the heat away from end and the joint filled or capped.
yes....low level Nitrogen should be used to keep the line clear and clean...
what is the best soldering rod you think ? recommendation from you.
I'd go with any brazing rod that contains 15% silver👍 You can get away with 5% but the 15% is more expensive for a reason🙃 As far as soft solder, I always use 95/5. Thanks for watching!
@@JumpermanTech brand and model number ?
Hello Bryan - generally, soldering is sold in rolls and for copper brazing they are done with (brazing) rods.
Ive had trouble burning pipes leaving the flame on one spot too long. Heating from the bottom, waving a bit on the piece and then bringing up the flame towards the rod seems to work best. Many old timer's ive worked with also say reheat the piece too many times is bad. Those same guys also didnt think using nitrogen was necessary even though the ports on some valves are frickin tiny. Maybe things were different with R22?
I'm sorry, but this video and your old timers are giving you bad information. Things were not different with R22.
@@trevorbjarne Hey there thanks for the input from my 1 year old comment but, im not sure what you mean since obviously R22 systems are not compatible with their "modern" replacement ala 410a. I've had the liberty of recharging R22 systems which is easy since you can just add more without issues. Conversely 410a was a pain since its made up of 3 different chemicals instead of just one like r22 and would sometimes need reclaiming to refill the system. My point being, with obvious things like pressure differences and temperature thresholds off the table, how do you suggest they are not different?
@@nobadnamesleft Hi, No Bad Names left. I'm sorry if I was unclear - as the subject of this video was brazing... so when I said that "it" hasn't changed - I was referring to the brazing process. That's it... the brazing processes has not changed in that last couple of decades - I've made it better - I have just written a book on the manual torch brazing process.
@@trevorbjarne I see i over complicated things as usual for myself lol. Cheers 🍻
@@nobadnamesleft If you have any direct questions about brazing - I can answer them. All the best to you and yours.
Good luck to you. Can I have a store link to buy a torch like the one you have? Thank you
Thank you! All my videos I leave a link for the products used in the description. I will send you a link below for the torch kit🙃 Thanks for watching & stay tuned for new videos every week!
TurboTorch Kit X-4B (A/C & Refrigeration kit)
amzn.to/3b1QZ2R
Hey! What kind of rods to torch with? U mentioned silver Brazing flux? Then u said something else??
They are called brazing rods. They come in different percentages and that percentage is the silver content in them. Higher the percentage, higher silver content and strength. Typically the standard is 5-15% for a solid connection from copper to copper. Make a clean cut, sand it down and braze👍 Thanks for watching!
Stay tuned for new videos every week! 🔧⚡️
Awesome!
It’s so good job
Hi; very good !! congratulation!!!!
Thank you very much! Stay tuned for new videos every week & stay safe out there✌
COOL!!!
Is this a lead free process, and safe for fresh water plumbing?
Brazing with silver is for high pressure. You jyst need lead free solder for plumbing. You'll also want to use a soldering flux. Not a brazing flux.
2/21/2021 For a Person that wants to teach others you need to learn your self. First your torch is way to hot. You use to much solder. Second you heat the elbow then the pipe that into the elbow. Third heat on the elbow causes suction. The suction pulled the solder into the elbow. Fourth you use only the amount Solder that is needed. If you have the pipe and Elbow glowing CHERRY red the solder won't stay in the elbow. When you add heat to a glowing red Copper Pipe the solder will fall out. Add Solder to the opposite side of the copper pipe always from the heat. The elbow and pipe is hot enough, with pipe soaked from all the heat the solder will melt. Fifth if soldering be sure to Clean and de-bur the Copper ends or joints to be welded. Sand the joints with sand Paper. If brazing Copper to Copper using solder use a Acid Pipe Cleaner for Soldering. If you are brazing Copper to Copper with seal-flos 15 percent Silver Solder sand each joint of that pipe and wipe clean each end and Joint before welding. Never use any cleaner acid if welding Seal-flos. Flow 5 to 10 cubing feet of Nitrogen through the copper to stop copper sulfate (ash) building up inside the Copper Lines if used on HVAC. The Ash in the HVAC will plug the Pump and Valves on the HVAC Units. Never Braze Copper to Copper with Seal-flos without flowing Nitrogen into the lines being welded. Clean your joints after welding with a damp rag. Pressurize all you joints for leaks.
You're close - on and off on your points (made here).
Kitna degree heat pe rod ko tube me karna hai
Is that Klingon?
blazing & brazing, that’s a beautiful thing right there🐲
Hehehe! You have a point there😁 Thank you!
Your penetration is ok but Definitely Need to get your heat control down and a thicker Bead but at the end of the day as long as it doesn’t leak you’re good!
“Your penetration is ok” that’s what she said.
great work
Cool. Now I’m a professional plumber...Thanks for the video!
Great video! Thankyou 👍
Which brazing touch is this. I need one.
Some one should give information about this touch
I always leave a link in all my videos descriptions for the items used in my videos. I will leave you a link below for the torch. Thanks for watching!
TurboTorch Kit X-4B (A/C & Refrigeration kit)
amzn.to/3b1QZ2R
Welding skills 10/10
Welding knowledge 7/10
I could have been in and out of there in 1/4 of the time. Your torch was whistling like the tip had something in it. I’ve used both air acetylene and ox acetylene I prefer the latter. You should have been able to get the joint up to temperature much quicker. Other than that I thought it was better than a lot of the brazing videos I’ve seen
Right my problem is I'm heading the pipe with the burner but the pipe just won't get to a point where it golws. I can melt the brazing rode but it just won't connect to the copper pipe. Can I just add that the copper pipe I have have a silver shell for some reason. Its the shower pipes
For water lines you only need to solder, not braze. If it's not getting hot enough there could be water near the joint. Believe it or not put a chunk of bread (no crust), gently push further into the pipe. It will absorb the water and create a dam to keep your joint dry. The bread will dissolve and get blown out by water pressure when you are finished. Even a little water near the joint will prevent proper heating.
Solder for water supply, not brazing.