I read we should not be lubricating the x axis rods because the hotend uses a graphite bearing that is self lubricating. On the other hand, adding to the maintenance a little grease on the lead screws so they run smoothly is good to do at about the same interval! Great video overall showing people how to perform such an important maintenance task we all need for our printers
It has been a debated topic, however, Creality says TOO lube them, so, I will go with their word, unless I discover it, personally, to be incorrect. So far, running great. I should note, I am using VERY little grease, as I only apply it with the cloth, leaving very little on the rail.
@@3DRundownI actually had to exchange my k1 max my first one was a dud and that one didn’t have any grease on the rods but this one from Creality has a thin coat on the rods already
It is not hard to "personally" work out Creality are INCORRECT, because you can go to any bearing manufacturer website, and read about graphite bearings, and NOT to lubricate them. Creality only BUY the bearing from bearing manufacturers..... so who do you think would be correct?@@3DRundown
Thank you a lot. It is so nice that your explanations are very detailed and you included every step of the process. It makes understanding the cleaning process much, much easier.
I too use these methods, but have noticed that there could be a spontaneous fiber discharge from the tip of cue onto newly lubricated surfaces. So keep a watchful eye on these hence forth.
Mannnn you had me excited! I thought you were about to reveal the K1C haha. I read on the facebook group that they sent you one. I'm jealous I'm probably going to upgrade my K1 to the K1C.
Ah, hate to do that to you. I do not have a K1C yet, but, I am indeed expecting one. However, Creality is a large company, with many independent departments, that don't always communicate with each other efficiently, so, I don't count anything, till a package with Chinese writing arrives at my door. They asked me to cover the E3 V3, and, of course, I accepted their request, but, in turn, I suggested that I would personally like to cover the K1C, as it's a machine I would use in my day to day work, which would allow me to cover it more extensively. Of course, if the V3 turns out to be a real winner, then, I will use that also, but, the K1 has proven itself, and I have used both the K1 and K1 MAX, daily. They came back, and green lit me for a K1C. However, in the past, there have been delays, stock issues, and such. Sooooo, while I am expecting the V3, and K1C, I have no idea when. I have stressed, many times, how critical, getting them on time is, for my ability to generate traffic with them. But, the ball is always in their hands. Fingers Crossed for soon.... I am taking a "Wait and see" on the V3, but, I have high hopes for the K1C.
@@3DRundown Err, the K1's (all variants) have mainly proven to be excellent at VFA..... due to their half useless motion system. It is not something fixable either. Not without major rework. So for all their GREAT points, this one main flaw ruins the whole printer really!! A half the price bed slinger, of ANY brand, can do notably better printing quality.
Outstanding presentation as usual thanks for the information buddy and the original machines did not have the grease but the latest ones coming out. Do you have this particular grease inside the packet
The bed is magnetic and removable.... Why not take it out to clean it? Also, why is the table so wobbly? That should be rule number one..Make sure your table or stand does not wobble or move...But what do I know..
Lol. I can't tell if you are being serious or trolling. This table is for this video. My machines are on Muscle Wracks. Removing the bed takes extra time, risks misalignment, or throwing off your Z and ABL calibration. No need, unless a need presents itself.
I would avoid 70% ipa, it would be fine on parts you're cleaning but it will leave a film on the printbed that prints don't like to stick to as well. 91% is available at walmart for about the same price.
I have 99% and still prefer 70. Any of them are fine. But the film is left from the the IPA, not the other %. Isopropyl alcohol is an alcohol, and all alcohols including ethanol and ethyl alcohol tend to damage the surface of various polymers of plastics. This hazing and residue effect of IPA is visible especially if they are shiny or polished. why this happens? IPA is hygroscopic which means that loves to draw moisture from the atmosphere to itself. In as little as 15 minutes, a bottle of IPA left in an open container would lose 7% of its potency and will keep on absorbing moisture until it reaches 65 percent and then stops with equilibrium. This moisture-loving feature of IPA draws in many impurities with it and when it dries after being used for cleaning, these impurities from the air and others from those inexpensive plastic bottles will remain. Hence you get that reside/haze on the surface.
Clean it but do NOT lubricate the X-Axis. There are lots of evidences that doing this for this kind of self-lubricating rails is counter productive: ruclips.net/video/xAp4juU-omk/видео.htmlsi=jMHeihLeubIrg7GI And cleaning the bed is a lot easier by removing the build plate first and clean it outside the printer. You can attach it afterwards and heat the bed to get it dry.
I have over 30 printers. I never remove my beds. Never heat them to dry. Clean, sent print job. There is much debate over the X rail. Cleaning is the main goal. Mine works great
The Dark clothes helps me keep my white balance in check, and my peeps recognize me in thumbnails. But perhaps you were hearing some of the victims in my basement. That might creap me out also. Or perhaps you don't like my snarky humor. I can't me a stiff all the time. It bores me to tears
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
I read we should not be lubricating the x axis rods because the hotend uses a graphite bearing that is self lubricating. On the other hand, adding to the maintenance a little grease on the lead screws so they run smoothly is good to do at about the same interval! Great video overall showing people how to perform such an important maintenance task we all need for our printers
It has been a debated topic, however, Creality says TOO lube them, so, I will go with their word, unless I discover it, personally, to be incorrect. So far, running great. I should note, I am using VERY little grease, as I only apply it with the cloth, leaving very little on the rail.
@@3DRundownI actually had to exchange my k1 max my first one was a dud and that one didn’t have any grease on the rods but this one from Creality has a thin coat on the rods already
It is not hard to "personally" work out Creality are INCORRECT, because you can go to any bearing manufacturer website, and read about graphite bearings, and NOT to lubricate them. Creality only BUY the bearing from bearing manufacturers..... so who do you think would be correct?@@3DRundown
@@MrPetersVideoyup graphite bearings should never be lubricated
Thank you a lot. It is so nice that your explanations are very detailed and you included every step of the process. It makes understanding the cleaning process much, much easier.
I too use these methods, but have noticed that there could be a spontaneous fiber discharge from the tip of cue onto newly lubricated surfaces. So keep a watchful eye on these hence forth.
Scotts Blue Shop cloth do not shed. They are all I ever touch my Printers with
Thank you very much for the video. Very well explained, it was very easy to clean and lubricate my K1 following your guide
Aren't you supposed to remove the yellow shipping screw arrow stickers?
It would surely look better. Every few days I tell myself "I should take those off".
Mannnn you had me excited! I thought you were about to reveal the K1C haha. I read on the facebook group that they sent you one. I'm jealous I'm probably going to upgrade my K1 to the K1C.
Ah, hate to do that to you. I do not have a K1C yet, but, I am indeed expecting one. However, Creality is a large company, with many independent departments, that don't always communicate with each other efficiently, so, I don't count anything, till a package with Chinese writing arrives at my door. They asked me to cover the E3 V3, and, of course, I accepted their request, but, in turn, I suggested that I would personally like to cover the K1C, as it's a machine I would use in my day to day work, which would allow me to cover it more extensively. Of course, if the V3 turns out to be a real winner, then, I will use that also, but, the K1 has proven itself, and I have used both the K1 and K1 MAX, daily. They came back, and green lit me for a K1C. However, in the past, there have been delays, stock issues, and such. Sooooo, while I am expecting the V3, and K1C, I have no idea when. I have stressed, many times, how critical, getting them on time is, for my ability to generate traffic with them. But, the ball is always in their hands. Fingers Crossed for soon.... I am taking a "Wait and see" on the V3, but, I have high hopes for the K1C.
@@3DRundown Err, the K1's (all variants) have mainly proven to be excellent at VFA..... due to their half useless motion system. It is not something fixable either. Not without major rework. So for all their GREAT points, this one main flaw ruins the whole printer really!! A half the price bed slinger, of ANY brand, can do notably better printing quality.
Outstanding presentation as usual thanks for the information buddy and the original machines did not have the grease but the latest ones coming out. Do you have this particular grease inside the packet
Hmmm, making me want to check my K1 Unboxing. I feel like it had it. Apologies, I'm not sure I follow the Question....
I liked the video. Asking a question as a relative NEWB, my K1 didn't come with grease, what and where can I get some compatible grease?
Are you SURE? It should have. Any grease safe for metal. I'll find a link
Well I still have the box. I could do a live stream of myself giving a tour of the inner dark nether regions of Creality’s packing….
Mine didn't either. I saw quite a few ppl say they uses Super Lube so I'm giving that a shot now.
@@brownlkt My K1 Max didnt come with any either.
Thank you for the great tutorial! Appreciate the humor too! 🤣
Very welcome. I wish I could let myself off my leash. I'm a clown in real life. 😛
The bed is magnetic and removable.... Why not take it out to clean it? Also, why is the table so wobbly? That should be rule number one..Make sure your table or stand does not wobble or move...But what do I know..
Lol. I can't tell if you are being serious or trolling. This table is for this video. My machines are on Muscle Wracks. Removing the bed takes extra time, risks misalignment, or throwing off your Z and ABL calibration. No need, unless a need presents itself.
I would avoid 70% ipa, it would be fine on parts you're cleaning but it will leave a film on the printbed that prints don't like to stick to as well. 91% is available at walmart for about the same price.
I have 99% and still prefer 70. Any of them are fine. But the film is left from the the IPA, not the other %.
Isopropyl alcohol is an alcohol, and all alcohols including ethanol and ethyl alcohol tend to damage the surface of various polymers of plastics. This hazing and residue effect of IPA is visible especially if they are shiny or polished. why this happens? IPA is hygroscopic which means that loves to draw moisture from the atmosphere to itself. In as little as 15 minutes, a bottle of IPA left in an open container would lose 7% of its potency and will keep on absorbing moisture until it reaches 65 percent and then stops with equilibrium. This moisture-loving feature of IPA draws in many impurities with it and when it dries after being used for cleaning, these impurities from the air and others from those inexpensive plastic bottles will remain. Hence you get that reside/haze on the surface.
Thanks! Very helpful
Love the mart of wal
Yeeeeees, it's right next The Depot Of Home, in my town.
always helpfull, thanks
3:24 FYI 70% is much better for this application as 99% evaporates too quickly.
ruclips.net/video/aAswWOFtR3M/видео.html&si=mUhuT2rHimWx7t7_
Sugli assi in acciaio io ho rimosso ogni traccia di grasso e lubrificato solo con pochissimo olio per macchine da cucire, come olio Singer
👍🏼👍🏼
don't use your bare finger to move the rod. use gloves
You are welcome to use gloves.
Clean it but do NOT lubricate the X-Axis. There are lots of evidences that doing this for this kind of self-lubricating rails is counter productive:
ruclips.net/video/xAp4juU-omk/видео.htmlsi=jMHeihLeubIrg7GI
And cleaning the bed is a lot easier by removing the build plate first and clean it outside the printer. You can attach it afterwards and heat the bed to get it dry.
I have over 30 printers. I never remove my beds. Never heat them to dry. Clean, sent print job. There is much debate over the X rail. Cleaning is the main goal. Mine works great
@@3DRundown I am not talking about the whole bed, but the flexible sheet on it
Right. I clean them, installed on the printer. No problems yet, and I print ALLOT. :)
Something about your demeanor in this video feels off putting, I am not sure what. Maybe the dark clothes and background. Not sure.
The Dark clothes helps me keep my white balance in check, and my peeps recognize me in thumbnails. But perhaps you were hearing some of the victims in my basement. That might creap me out also. Or perhaps you don't like my snarky humor. I can't me a stiff all the time. It bores me to tears
@@3DRundown love your vibe bro lol.