Gotta add also, I can think of NO ONE in the industry of aftermarket Sporty work but YOU that I would have restoring this bike. You are the best I've ever seen on old ironheads. Well done!
I'll be following this one. My daily ride is a 69 XLCH. A few things I noticed... That braided throttle cable you are using with the Bendix can be attached to the internal throttle hardware up in the right handlebar. Replace the original "push" spiral grip with a "pull". It would be a shame to lose the internal throttle, one of the nicest features on these old Sportsters. I think I see the rubber pad that goes between the front of the rear fender at the bottom and the bracket that attaches to the frame is missing. That section of the rear fender is supposed to float and is steadied by the rubber piece. If it's missing the fender will crack a few inches above. I'm sure you know that those hose clamps are the original style. When you replace the oil lines will you use the same style? I didn't when I replaced mine. I used the everyday worm gear clamps and whenever I look at them my eyes hurt. The capacitor is called a "horn capacitor" in the parts book. Mine is still there but I don't know if it works. I don't have a horn. You are so right about the magneto timing retard hardware. The spiral at the left handlebar is a "pull" spiral. With the "pull" on the right handlebar with the Bendix you retain the coolest, cleanest, smoothest looking bars in the world of motorcycles. I didn't know about the vent lines attached to the vent nipples, makes sense.One of mine got plugged by insects. Packed by mud that was as hard as Roman concrete. When I tried to tap it out with a small nail the nail bent! I ended up drilling the mud out. Anyway what a beautiful example of an un-messed with pre-1970 XLCH. I know that Jarhead will be happy when you're done. And thanks a million for putting up these videos. I am also a Marine. 1976-1980 0811.
My first bike had a Tillotson and it ran pretty well; which is good because I was clueless. Once, the diaphragm stuck and filled the cyl's with gas. After that I had a bicycle spoke wrapped around the bars to probe the bottom vent hole when it stumbled. When I switched my new 72 to a Bendix I got a reverse spiral for the internal throttle because I hate cables and I love being able to let go of the throttle. My XLCH had rubber isolation posts for the oil tank and I see no room for them on this bike. Aluminum wheels.
As the owner of an all original 65 CH I can tell you about the details. The trip meter reset on the left fork is correct. Those shocks are OEM. The crimp clamps on the oil tank hoses are OEM. Yes, the MO/CO taped the wires to the frame.65 was the first year for the 12 volt so the 66 had a 12 volt Delco. The steering damper on the bottom tree was done two years, 65-66.The turndown on the front muffler was probably a common modification. I have two of those in my parts piles 66 Was the first year for the Tillotson. 65 was the last year for the DC Linkert which is on my scooter. You'll discover the bottom mount for the oil tank has little springs on the mounting bolts. All and all the 66 is a very original bike
@@mpifer9574 the rear one is indeed a 65230-65A the front is also but has been modified.to add that turndown. There is NO muffler with a turn down in the OEM parts books, which is the definitive answer as to what a bike was assembled with from the factory
We will be waiting to watch videos about this beautiful Sportster. You are lucky to have the opportunity to work on that bike, and we are lucky to see the process.
As I'm sure you know,the rims are original Ackront rims which were standard on the xlch. Solid mounting on the oil tank, but carefully inspect the frame at the upper seatpost area. The frames were notorious for breaking at the seat post. Then the only thing holding the frame together was the oil tank which is bolted to the frame on top and the rear engine mount on the bottom. The two seatpost tubes of the frame crack at the weld where the steel tube goes into the cast seat cradle casting. And carefully remove the tachometer drive from the magneto, that drive gear has been obsolete since 1980. One more tidbit , those cool rear shocks are from early XR750 bikes..,..if I remember correctly. Have fun, your customer has a nice survivor. Oh,one more. There was a service bulletin about xlch valve springs. If left under tension in storage for , I think it was 5 years they should be replaced with new valve springs. Semper Fi.
Gary, there is a guy that has a channel, Mags & Tillotson, on RUclips. He has a 1968 black XLCH and a 1970 Gold XLH. He does a lot of work on them himself. He is thorough and does detailed work on them. He is worth watching for the information he offers. He has done one or two videos on the Tillotson carb. He has got a two kick XLCH with mag. I think he lives in Michigan or Illinois or someplace around there. He is worth subscribing to.
Nice old bike.Have you thought about just changing the throttle spiral from a push to a pull and using a stock Bendix cable bracket?I've done a few Tillotsenectomies and it's a good way to go.Good luck,sir.Brock.
thank you again for another video, funny how a different carb can sometimes make ALL the difference in the world, I have a Mikuni round slide I keep around for testing purposes .do you think that the double lip aluminum rims are factory?
From here this machine appears to be an exceptional example of an early XLCH. Consider looking for a way to correct the issues with the original components and retain them, rather than compromising the originality of this rare Time Capsule.
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I’m looking forward to watching the series and learning more 👍
More to come.
The way that turtle tank is painted, it doesn't look too bad.
It almost looks like it belongs there...
It’s the original paint.
Gotta add also, I can think of NO ONE in the industry of aftermarket Sporty work but YOU that I would have restoring this bike. You are the best I've ever seen on old ironheads. Well done!
Thank You!!!
I'll be following this one. My daily ride is a 69 XLCH. A few things I noticed...
That braided throttle cable you are using with the Bendix can be attached to the internal throttle hardware up in the right handlebar. Replace the original "push" spiral grip with a "pull". It would be a shame to lose the internal throttle, one of the nicest features on these old Sportsters.
I think I see the rubber pad that goes between the front of the rear fender at the bottom and the bracket that attaches to the frame is missing. That section of the rear fender is supposed to float and is steadied by the rubber piece. If it's missing the fender will crack a few inches above.
I'm sure you know that those hose clamps are the original style. When you replace the oil lines will you use the same style? I didn't when I replaced mine. I used the everyday worm gear clamps and whenever I look at them my eyes hurt.
The capacitor is called a "horn capacitor" in the parts book. Mine is still there but I don't know if it works. I don't have a horn.
You are so right about the magneto timing retard hardware. The spiral at the left handlebar is a "pull" spiral. With the "pull" on the right handlebar with the Bendix you retain the coolest, cleanest, smoothest looking bars in the world of motorcycles.
I didn't know about the vent lines attached to the vent nipples, makes sense.One of mine got plugged by insects. Packed by mud that was as hard as Roman concrete. When I tried to tap it out with a small nail the nail bent! I ended up drilling the mud out.
Anyway what a beautiful example of an un-messed with pre-1970 XLCH. I know that Jarhead will be happy when you're done. And thanks a million for putting up these videos.
I am also a Marine. 1976-1980 0811.
Great video as always!
Glad you enjoyed!
That is a beautiful bike. I served as a Marine myself, it's AWESOME that it's in your hands. OOORAH!
Right on!
My first bike had a Tillotson and it ran pretty well; which is good because I was clueless. Once, the diaphragm stuck and filled the cyl's with gas. After that I had a bicycle spoke wrapped around the bars to probe the bottom vent hole when it stumbled. When I switched my new 72 to a Bendix I got a reverse spiral for the internal throttle because I hate cables and I love being able to let go of the throttle. My XLCH had rubber isolation posts for the oil tank and I see no room for them on this bike. Aluminum wheels.
I do believe it is...
What a find!
Yes, a real gem.
As the owner of an all original 65 CH I can tell you about the details. The trip meter reset on the left fork is correct. Those shocks are OEM. The crimp clamps on the oil tank hoses are OEM. Yes, the MO/CO taped the wires to the frame.65 was the first year for the 12 volt so the 66 had a 12 volt Delco. The steering damper on the bottom tree was done two years, 65-66.The turndown on the front muffler was probably a common modification. I have two of those in my parts piles 66 Was the first year for the Tillotson. 65 was the last year for the DC Linkert which is on my scooter. You'll discover the bottom mount for the oil tank has little springs on the mounting bolts. All and all the 66 is a very original bike
That fills in a lot of blanks, thank you!!!
I think you meant to write "little springs" on the mounting bolts.
Mufflers what you see is what the bike came with.
@@mpifer9574 the rear one is indeed a 65230-65A the front is also but has been modified.to add that turndown. There is NO muffler with a turn down in the OEM parts books, which is the definitive answer as to what a bike was assembled with from the factory
We will be waiting to watch videos about this beautiful Sportster. You are lucky to have the opportunity to work on that bike, and we are lucky to see the process.
I am lucky and I do greatly appreciate the opportunity.
I’m looking forward to these upcoming videos.
Looking forward to the coming episodes.
Eight episodes coming, stay tuned...
As I'm sure you know,the rims are original Ackront rims which were standard on the xlch. Solid mounting on the oil tank, but carefully inspect the frame at the upper seatpost area. The frames were notorious for breaking at the seat post. Then the only thing holding the frame together was the oil tank which is bolted to the frame on top and the rear engine mount on the bottom. The two seatpost tubes of the frame crack at the weld where the steel tube goes into the cast seat cradle casting. And carefully remove the tachometer drive from the magneto, that drive gear has been obsolete since 1980. One more tidbit , those cool rear shocks are from early XR750 bikes..,..if I remember correctly. Have fun, your customer has a nice survivor. Oh,one more. There was a service bulletin about xlch valve springs. If left under tension in storage for , I think it was 5 years they should be replaced with new valve springs. Semper Fi.
Great info will place under notes in the manual. Thanks
Yes, I've seen them cracked at the top of the seat post.
Gary, there is a guy that has a channel, Mags & Tillotson, on RUclips. He has a 1968 black XLCH and a 1970 Gold XLH. He does a lot of work on them himself. He is thorough and does detailed work on them. He is worth watching for the information he offers. He has done one or two videos on the Tillotson carb. He has got a two kick XLCH with mag. I think he lives in Michigan or Illinois or someplace around there. He is worth subscribing to.
Copy that, I just did subscribe.
Nice old bike.Have you thought about just changing the throttle spiral from a push to a pull and using a stock Bendix cable bracket?I've done a few Tillotsenectomies and it's a good way to go.Good luck,sir.Brock.
I thought about it, however, I find the spiral throttle to be very slow responding.
Looking forward to the series...
🤘😎🤘
This’ll be good,
thank you again for another video, funny how a different carb can sometimes make ALL the difference in the world, I have a Mikuni round slide I keep around for testing purposes .do you think that the double lip aluminum rims are factory?
Round slide Mics actually work real well on a Sportster and they are affordable.
Question for a mostly stock bike with a mag witch carb is better for kick start a bendix or a super e. Thank you
I'd go with Bendix. In my opinion S&S is just a little too big for a Sportster. And, yeah, I know people will disagree...
Very nice specimen, is that original paint?
I believe so
Yes it is
From here this machine appears to be an exceptional example of an early XLCH.
Consider looking for a way to correct the issues with the original components and retain them, rather than compromising the originality of this rare Time Capsule.
Unfortunately some compromises will be made...
Gray has done an outstanding job keeping with original parts. Most skilled individual I have found to repair this bike.
I also have never seen one of those Tillotson carbs work on a sportster .?
That remains to be seen...
My very first harley. 1966 xlch. But not nearly that nice or original.
It is a beauty alright!!!