Condensate Pump Replacement & Troubleshooting | Repair and Replace
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- Опубликовано: 5 июн 2024
- In this episode of Repair and Replace, Vance explains how to troubleshoot and replace a condensate pump. If water is leaking from your furnace then its likely that the pump has stopped working, so its best to test it first. You'll also learn how a condensate pump works and how to install and connect a replacement condensate pump.
If the condensate pump motor fails, then there might be water leaking from the furnace when the heat or air conditioning is on. If the pump motor runs but the reservoir overflows, the check valve might be plugged or the pump might be plugged internally. If the motor doesn't run, then the float switch might be stuck or the motor might be burnt out. In a lot of cases its best to replace the pump.
To order a replacement condensate pump online : www.amresupply.com/catalog/Co...
If your furnace isn't working, then watch our troubleshooting guide: • Furnace Troubleshootin...
Related part numbers: VCMA-15UL, VCMA-15ULS, VCMA-20UL, VCMA-20ULST, VCMA-20ULS, VCMX-20ULS, VCMX-20ULS-C, VCC-20ULS
#RepairandReplace #CondensatePump
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00:00 Intro
00:32 How it Works
01:42 What You'll Need
01:53 Troubleshooting
03:47 Remove the Old Pump
04:20 Install the New Pump
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AMRE Supply provides homeowners, service contractors, and property management with the parts and knowledge needed to get the best performance out of any property. Stocking the largest selection of appliance parts, heating, plumbing, lighting, and janitorial supplies, AMRE ships almost anywhere in Canada within 24 - 48 hours. Expert help is available online, over the phone or in person at one of the many locations across Canada.
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Did this help you troubleshoot and replace your condensate pump? Leave a comment and let us know!
Yes, thanks.
Yes!!!! Thank you. May I donate to your cause?
@@coachunited4761 Thanks for watching! We appreciate the sentiment! If you want to help out, you can order your next part from amresupply.com , additionally liking or sharing the video helps our channel grow! As well you can always check out the additional videos on our channel. Every little bit helps! Cheers
I thought for sure my pump was bad because it is ancient, but your suggestion to jostle the float worked. Your video was excellent, and I will keep your company in mind next time I need a part. Thank you!!
@@nikkiw8231 We're glad that the video helped you out, and we're always here for when you need a new part! Take care!
Welp. I went from zero knowledge of the subject to everything I need to know about exactly what's going wrong with my furnace thanks to this video. Huge hat tip to Vance. I literally subscribed because he explains things without me feeling like a total moron!
Thank you Andy! It's feedback like yours that helps motivate our team to create the best videos we can! I think you'll find some additional videos on our channel. Here's one that is a good start: Multimeter and Electricity Basics. It will be a review of some concepts and perhaps some new concepts. Its just a good overall video that helps make all other troubleshooting make more sense ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html All the best to you!
Same!
Hands down one of the most useful home repair videos on RUclips.
Thank you, we try to make all of our videos as helpful as this!
Thanks for saving me a couple hundred bucks on a plumber visit. The float was stuck. So easy!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Thanks to AMRE Supply for clear instructions
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
This was very helpful. It helped me to determine that the pump is functioning properly. Thank you.
You're welcome Lorrieonline! We're glad the video was helpful to you!
This video was extremely helpful!!
It was very easy to understand and I appreciated the high production value!
Thank you Roger, we're glad you found it helpful! We put the same effort into all of our videos and we actually just released a series on oven and stove troubleshooting including a "How it Works" video. If you like learning, its a good one to watch ruclips.net/video/L9ZI5GyON9I/видео.html Cheers!
Thanks - this was a life-saver on a very cold November night. I found the check-valve was clogged and had the furnace back on pretty quickly! Much appreciated!
You're welcome, we're just glad that it helped you in that difficult situation!
Thank you for this very helpful video! It was quite user friendly.
You're welcome missige, we're glad you found it easy to follow!
Very clear and well produced with great illustrations and nicely paced useful explanations.
Thank you Terry! We put a lot of work into the graphics as it helps communicate information that is otherwise difficult to visualize. We're glad that you found it helpful!
Sincere thanks. I had NO idea what was wrong (except that the furnace wouldn't "go").
This tute led me STRAIGHT to the problem - a blocked check valve that I managed to free up after several hefty BLOWS (the last of which BLASTED water out).
The only point I'd mention is that I had to CUT off the bottom of that clear discharge tube as it was almost "welded" onto the check valve (and the furnace is only 2 years old)!
No biggy. I had enough length to PUSH the tube onto the check valve (& clamp it) after it was freed up & reinstalled.
I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Liked & subscribed,
GN
You're very welcome, we're just happy that our videos are helpful! Its good that you had enough of the tubing left to cut and reinstall, glad that it all worked out for you!
Suuuuuuper helpful video....def thought I was going to have to sleep w no ac until I could get someone to come out and fix this....was able to troubleshoot and get the pump back running after watching this....the floater was stuck...then once it was working the motor would start making noise ...stuck a float screwdriver into the fan to give it a nudge and it started working asap
Thanks for sharing your experience Edward! We're glad it was a simple fix!
Thank you for this step-by-step video. This video saved me tonight!
You're welcome, we're glad that the video was helpful to you!
This man has excellent speaking skills! Very helpful. Nice camera work and visuals.
Thank you Terrance, we're glad that you found the video and graphics helpful!
This is the best troubleshoot video I could ever find on RUclips. Thanks!
You're welcome Max! We're glad you found the troubleshooting section helpful!
+1
Fabulous ...thank you ...able to replace the pump easily! Much appreciated.
You're welcome Rick! We're glad the video helped you out!
Thank you! Was going to call a tech over but checked out your suggestions and it was as simple as a stuck check valve! Thanks again!
You're welcome Benjamin! Its amazing how often problems are caused by something simple. We're glad you got it up and running again.
Thanks for sharing a great presentation.
You're welcome Davy!
Excellent video - we had this problem. Vance goes through the details and steps quickly, including the safety steps, with excellent video and quick and straight to the point.
Thank you Shawn! We're glad you found it helpful! We try to make all of our videos straight forward and detailed. We just released a video on Electricity and Multimeter Basics, which includes some helpful animations. Let us know your thoughts! ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html
This video was very helpful. Ended up being the float switch was stuck. Thank you!
You're welcome Mario! Sometimes its just a simple fix, we're glad the video helped you out!
Your video was very helpful and gave great detail. To get this issue fixed. Thank you.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Greatest video ever. Simple and very informative. Thank you.
Thank you Guillermo! We're glad you found it informative!
I spent the entire night trying to figure out why no air was blowing throughout my house. I checked the furnace pilot light, the wires of the thermostat.... it turns out,... it was the condensate pump. I had seen random water in the basement earlier in the night, and your video was the key to me figuring it out and solving the problem. The hot air is blowing. The house is getting warm again. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!
You're very welcome!! The condensate pump is not the first thing people think about, and sometimes all you need is something to point your in the right direction. We're glad that its working again!
Great video - I was just wondering if the pump reservoir will always have water in it and your animation showed me that the answer is yes
Thanks for watching. Most pumps including sump pumps don't make perfect contact with the bottom of the basin so there is a little bit of water left but doesn't create problems.
Thanks Sir this was great and saved me tons of money . Excellent
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Thank you for the informative video!👍
You're welcome, we're just happy to share some good info!
Thanks for this troubleshooting demo. My pump was running, but no water was coming out. Turns out the clear tube was kinked; someone had pulled a zip-tie too tight where the tube turned a corner.
You're welcome mike, we're glad that the video helped you narrow down the problem!
Great video. Was a bad check valve. Just took the ball out of check valve and good to go. Pump is about 20 yrs. old and just like one in video. Was wondering why reservoir had pressure build up when removing exit tubing and the stuck valve explains that. Thanks for saving me about $200 bucks for an A/C guy possibly wanting to replace the pump.
Thanks for watching Fred, we're glad that the video helped you save a few bucks!
The pump reservoir can not build up pressure. and depending on how your discharge hose is ran, the check valve is an important thing to have functioning properly. At a minimum without one, your pump will come on more often as the backflow after it stops pumping, will simply fill the reservoir a little and the pump will come on again sooner on every cycle. If it is a longer uphill run more water , just a 1 foot rise and downhill very little.
@@jayc4283 I ended up getting a new pump once it gave up completely a week or so later. 20 years is prolly enough time on the old pump, ya think? :)
Excellent video
Thank you!
Our ac guy was going to charge me $200 just to replace it. Thanks this video saved me that bucks.
You're welcome, we're glad that the video helped you save some money!
Great video!
Thank you FenderStrat19711!
What an awesome video!
Thank you Daniel!
I just had my condensate pump looked @ by a friend of mine who is a HVAC Technician the problem I was experiencing with my unit was when the A/C was on I noticed water on the floor. The problem was a clog in the plastic tubing caused by a slug from the outside drain which had been laying in the grass. Easy fix so now I have the tubing off the ground problem solved.
Thanks for sharing your experience Tony. Its amazing how such simple things can be the source of the problem, we're glad you have everything back up and running!
Thank you thank you thank you !!! I was just about to order another pump and you saved me !!! How can I donate to your cause ???
Thanks for watching! We appreciate the sentiment! If you want to help out, you can order your next part from amresupply.com , additionally liking or sharing the video helps our channel grow! As well you can always check out the additional videos on our channel. Every little bit helps! Cheers
Very helpful. Thanks.
You're welcome Michael!
This was very helpful. Our humidifier is running water for 24/7 and condensate pump keeps running while reservoir is empty. Have to show this our LL to convince him their shit is broken.
Thanks for watching. Sometimes a video is the most simple way of communicating these things so we're just happy to have help!
Thanks, this did help me.
Thanks for watching. We're glad to hear that the video was helpful!
great video excellent.
Thank you Patti!
Could a faulty condensate pump be signaling a “pressure switch open fault” in the furnace?
Great videos!
Thanks for watching. If the condensate pump is faulty, you'll see a high water level and it will trip the cutoff switch (if installed. In your case a "pressure switch open fault" is likely one of several issues. This is described here in this video: ruclips.net/video/b0sAGt-1niU/видео.html You'll want to make sure that the airflow is good for combustion. Make sure that the burners are clean, and the exhaust vent is clear on the outside of your home. If the flue vent is not clear, you'll get back pressure which will trip the pressure switch. As well make sure that the tubes leading into the pressure switch are not clogged. Another issue could be a clogged condensate drain (in this case the condensate pump basin would likely be bone dry, or would have a low water level overall)
Wow, great video.
Thank you! We're glad that you liked it!
01/16/19 Yes. It helped. Four Seasons replaced the pump. But now there is a loud noise.
Hi Dorothy, thank you for watching. Are you saying that the new pump is noisier than the old pump? Or is the sound coming from the furnace?
A beautiful man teaching me about AC. WIN WIN!!!
Thank you for watching, we're glad that you found it helpful!
Don't forget to also fully check whatever tube is leading out of the pump. Turns out, mine was clogged with some organic gunk that had built up during the warmer months . Pump worked fine but it wasn't strong enough to get past the block. Stuck a metal rod in there and it cleared everything up.
Hi Alaric, that is a great tip. We're glad you got it back up and running!
How long should a pump last? Living in the Midwest and have the model that you installed to replace. It’s only three years old and it never stops running. Going to try these steps now.
Thanks for watching. How long a pump lasts really depends on each unique case. A pump can last 10+ years if it runs occasionally. For something that is used constantly it is not uncommon for it to fail sooner after several years.
Great video! I noticed recently that my condensate removal pump gets activated on its own every 4 seconds and engages for only 1 second and then stops to repeat the cycle all over again. No water appears to be leaking but I noticed that the furnace is not extracting as much water as it used to do in the past. Not sure if that due to the climate and the period of the year we are in. What could possibly be wrong? You gave me good pointers to figure out the problem but thought I would ask anyway.
Hi Ali, thank you for watching. There will be some variation based on the climate and time of year. If its been less humid then the furnace will extract less water from the air.
Also if the condensate pump basin full of water, then its likely that just a small amount of condensate is triggering the float switch. Check if there is any restriction in the drain as this could cause the water level in the basin to sit higher than normal.
As a test you should be able to manually move the float to trigger the switch. If the motor and switch are working correctly, adding manual pressure should keep the motor on until you lower the switch. If its still intermittent, then its probably best to get a new motor.
Ali, a rapid cycling on and off typically means the check valve is stuck open. Try cleaning the valve as shown in the video or replace just the valve.
Very nice video.
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
I woke up last night to a hot house. My air stopped working and my Nest had a e195 "no power" error. I thought this was weird because it had been working fine for the last year. I flipped some breakers, played with some Nest wires. Nothing.
Enter the condensate pump shutoff switch. Mine triggered because my pump failed. This video gave a great general overview of what exact the pump does and how to go about replacing it. I write to you now form a cool house. Thanks AMRE for the awesome video.
You're welcome Andrew! We're glad to hear that the video helped you out!
I installed this myself on my tankless water heater 😄😊 I feel so accomplished hahah its easy but u know, 🤔 I'm still happy
Thanks for sharing! It's these little wins that really add up and feel good. We're glad to hear that it went smoothly!
👍👍👍 Excellent
Thank you Brandon!
Easy to understand
Thank you Mikey, we're glad that the video was helpful to you!
Thank you for the helpful video, but how do I connect the two wires?
Thanks for watching. You'll want to use a wire nut. You can see the basics of this in this short video. You likely don't need to strip these wires. ruclips.net/video/Fh2YIFVt51Y/видео.html You'll want to match the wire nut to the gauge of the wire: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Wire-Caps-EC7B orange wire nuts should work for these wires.
Anyone have a suggestion on what you consider the best condensate pump(s)?
Thanks for watching. The model shown in this video has lots of useful features. You can see this here: www.amresupply.com/part/554530-LG-NXTGEN-84GPH-COND-PUMP-115V
Have you tried adding vinegar or drano if it's blocked?
Hi thank you for watching. Vinegar is a safe way to clear a blockage in the condensate pump drain line. It might need to sit for an hour for it to work through the blockage. Alternatively you can use a pipe cleaner brush if it is long enough to reach to the blockage.
Hi where’s does the safety switch goes out the pump those 2 wires you had when you put on the plastic protectors do they stay outside or inside the Condenser
Hi Jamil, thats a good question. The safety switch stays outside the condenser pump, and is connected to the furnace, so the wires and connectors are just tucked behind the pump to keep them out of the way. Keep in mind not all furnaces are wired to have a safety switch though.
Thanks
AMRE Supply thanks I just did it I cleaned the pump and it seems to be working
You're welcome! We're glad you got it back up and working again! Cheers
First time viewer and will likely subscribe! Great video btw. I have a question @AMRE Supply... my condensation pump and furnace is in the basement. The motor works fine, the motor pumps when the level is reached and triggered by the float switch, and carries the water out to the discharge tube. When the unit is off and the condensation inlet pipe is no longer discharging water into the pump.. I noticed the water that is in the discharge tube will very slowly drain back into the condensation pump... while the unit is off, I noticed it takes about an hour to 2 hours to drain it back. It won't trigger the pump to kick on because the water level is below the float switch. So it is not an immediate dump back like a sump pump in a sump pit without a switch. The check valve isn't clogged either since it pumps the water fine.... my question would be.... is this normal??? should I replace the check valve as I suspect this is caused by a small leak in the check valve? My condensation pump is 15 years old... do you recommend me just replacing the entire unit? Thanks!
Hi Jeremy, we're glad you found the video helpful! The check valve inside these condensate pumps has a little ball that is pushed by the weight of the water. It should hold the water back but it if doesn't make a good seal then a small amount of water can leak out of the check valve. If the water is only draining back into the reservoir and not leaking onto the ground then its not really going to create any problems. Like you said the float doesn't get triggered by this so its not going to make the pump run too much more than it needs to. If the whole unit is working fine then there is no need to install a new pump as you can try replacing the check valve first. Just note what type of connection that you have, not all pumps use a threaded connection and others use a twist lock. www.amresupply.com/catalog/Check-PL57
Also as a new subscriber I think you'll find some useful videos and animations on our channel. Cheers!
Thanks buddy
You're welcome Richard!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
If pump runs and check valve is clear, the discharge tube could could be clogged. I had this happen. Used an air compressor and blasted some algae chunks out of the tube. All works fine now.
Thanks for sharing, those are excellent tips! Glad it's working now!
This is what I needed. What can I do when the pump is wired directly into the switch controling the furnace?
Thanks for watching. Do you mean that the safety switch is wired into the furnace? Or do you mean that the main power for the pump itself is connected to the furnace rather than an 120V outlet?
@@AmreSupply , hi. The pump is wired into the switch for the furnace, but while the furnace is off - it won't work with the pump running and I turned it off at the switch, the pump is still running. Also I couldn't find an emergency off switch on the pump itself.
@@heidipetrick918 That seems like it was wired in that particular way possibly to prevent the furnace from running when there's too much condensate. Does the pump stop running after the water level drops?
@@AmreSupply normally yes.
@@heidipetrick918 So when the water drops the furnace should work normally. Do you have any issues with your furnace itself?
Our pump is gone and we just got the Goodman Furnace two weeks ago
HVAC guy is putting in a New Pump today
Good thing my Mom noticed the water leaking
Thanks for sharing. We're glad that you noticed it before it became too big of a problem.
Great video ! My pump works, but the discharge tube connection threads broke (?) & it sprays the water up like a fountain. It's kinda cramped where the unit is, so I don't know if it's the male or female part that's damaged.
Thanks for watching. It is difficult to know what is damaged until you take a closer look.
@@AmreSupply Well, you're right. I did take a closer look & it was the purge valve that broke in tow at the threads. A trip to Lowes & $4.49 later...well, actually I had to buy a new dehumidifier also, so...
@@spitmahoney1153 Thanks for the update, we're glad that you were able to narrow it down!
Perfection
Thank you Hosam!
Im changing a condensate pump (clear vue) for this little giant - how do i know which is the correct way to hook up the new safety switch to the furnace? they have different labels on the 2 pump models
thx
Hi James, thanks for watching. First of all always read your condensate pump manual as there might be some differences between models and always shut the power off at the breaker box.
The manual should say something similar to this: The COM and NO connections from the safety switch are to be wired in series with the 24V thermostat circuit, this will interrupt power to the furnace if the water level in the pump overflows (pump fails). Though the colors are not standard, commonly the Red or the R therminal will have 24VAC power from the thermostat.
NC means normally closed, and NO means normally open. In cases that power to the furnace can't be disrupted, then the COM and NC terminals can be wired to a safety alarm.
@@AmreSupply thanks for the response - as a new home owner, your videos are very helpful !!
i am trying to figure out how the NC/NO terminals on the new pump (NC/NO/COM) correspond to the ones on the old pump ("Alarm"/"Common"/"Run") - the current pump is hooked up to "Common" and "Run" - so i assume "Run" is the same as NO?
The manual does say,
"Safety switch: The safety overflow switch should be connected to a Class-
II low voltage circuit. To control a thermostatic circuit the COM and NO
connections from the safety switch are to be wired in series with the low
voltage thermostat circuit to shut down the heating/AC circuit. The COM
and NC switch contacts may be used to actuate a low-voltage alarm circuit
(connected in series) if the heating/cooling system can not be disrupted.
The safety switch comes from the factory with leads connected to the COM
and NO switch terminals."
@@jamesandrewtown We're glad you're finding these videos helpful! You are right in your case, Run is equivalent to NO.
@@AmreSupply Thanks again ... turns out the new Little Giant doesnt label the safety switch wiring and the guy who came to look at it said it could be wired in either orientation... hooked it up and seems to be working fine!
@@jamesandrewtown Glad its all up and running now!
After turning my AC on for the first time in months (warm day in winter), I'm hearing what sounds like a low-power "whirr" noise from the pump that I have not detected in the past 11 years I've been in the home. It isn't terribly pesky but is audible from 20-25 feet away from the pump. I will monitor it to see if it shuts off but instinctively it seems like it might be problematic or at least foreshadowing something problematic, especially if the noise persists for another hour or more (because it seems to indicate that the motor is working but the water level within the pump, which I can see is near the top, is not lowering).
Thanks for watching. It is normal for the motor bearings to wear down over time, so these sorts of sounds can be a sign that you'll need a new condensate pump.
My ac was dripping in basement, before getting to the c pump. My ac guy could not come kidney stone so this woman was determined to solve. Cleaned pump, much needed BUT question here is a lot of the foiled tape was loose because of condensation. An out take not connected if I put a paper towel in it the leaking stopped. It had foil tape over it that came loose. So I reaped areas exposed. Leaking has stopped, pump is working But could more water build up inside and ruin or rust inside unit. Sorry I need confirmation since this is certainly not my expertise. Problem solved but could I cause another problem. Hope you reply! Thanks for your videos...
I had to do something because was dumping 5 gals per day!
Thanks for watching, we're glad you're finding the videos helpful! As long as the drain tube leading from your AC to your condensate pump is clean and has a secure connection then water should drain nicely into the condensate pump and shouldn't build up inside of the AC unit.. The drain pipe should not be patched up or sealed with foil tape. PVC plastic pipe joints should be glued with PVC cement and flexible tubing can be secured with a hose clamp if needed.
Can water flow through the pump and exit into the drain without the pump motor ever turning on? It seems unlikely, but i haven't heard my pump motor turn on for days, and the entire discharge line is full of water. Some 10-15 minutes after the AC turns off , I hear the water clearing out of the line on its own like gurgling water.
Thanks for watching, there could be some siphoning occuring. The checkvalve will prevent backflowing but it won't prevent siphoning.
Just installed one of these a month ago. Came home this evening and A/C was not working. Safety wires are hooked up so I know that's working. Walked over to unit and the Pump is running continuously tank is full but water is not being pumped out. What do you think?
Thanks for watching. If no water is being pumped out then its likely that the drain tube is clogged or the relief valve is stuck.
Our house came with a furnace humidifier already installed. I've been trying to research, but I'm not sure I fully understand how to tell when it's working properly. Should the pump run constantly when it's functioning? I add water to the reservoir, it runs for a few seconds (the water level goes down) and then it turns off. The ambient humidity in my home has not gone up whatsoever since turning it on, so I really don't know how to tell if it's working or not.
Hi Jordyn thank you for watching. The condensate pump collects water vapor created by the furnace or air conditioner and removes it. It will only run when there is enough water in the basin, so what you are noticing is normal. The condensate pump is not a humidifier so it won't add more humidity to the air. If you have a humidifier it will be mounted higher on the furnace and will be hooked into the main air vent. If you are ever unsure if the condensate pump is working or not you do a test by manually lifting the float switch or by pouring water in the basin to trigger the pump.
@@AmreSupply thank you! I know which part is the humidifier. I just don't know how to tell if it's working. Does the humidifier itself make any sort of noise to indicate that it's running? Or does air from the furnace simply pass through it?
@@passthesunchips12 There are a few different styles of humidifiers so it depends. There are drum style ones that you'll hear the drum and motor turn, there are also ones that have solenoid (magnetically opened valves), solenoids click when the valve opens to release water you can see a simple explanation here: ruclips.net/video/G6a_01NaTLA/видео.html Some humidifiers are wired directly to the furnace and will run when the blower fan runs, and other humidifiers only run when the humidistat tells it to. Also check the air vent on the humidistat. Opening or closing that vent will control how much air (with moisture) will be added back into your homes central air supply.
Hello I just got some one to install a new furnace .A Bryant he installed . This is first winter used but lots of water on the floor .Can you help me please
Thanks for watching. If the problem isn't with the condensate pump then it would be best to call the installer back to fix the problem with the furnace that they installed.
What should I do if I have water shooting out of the reservoir that you were putting water into? It happens every time the furnace kicks on.
Thanks for watching. If water is shooting out of it then check the connections to make sure the tubing is connected correctly.
As well look for any leaks in the tube itself.
Is my condensate pump supposed to have one hose that fills it 1 holes that empties it and 2 black plugs? Or 3 black plugs? I wish I had the ability to attach my photo.
Thanks for watching. Generally there is a inlet which loosely drops water into the basin, and one outlet tube which is secured with a barbed fitting and a flexible hose.
I can't find a video that explains where the clear hose goes. This is what I have: aAVPTC426014AA handler and Little Giant 554542 VCMX-20ULS-C 84 GPH 115V Automatic Condensate Removal Pump. I have a 50' clear hose and I did buy that black plug. My handler is sitting in the attic, with a shallow tray that the furnace is setting in. There are two PVC pipes; one from the handler and the other from the shallow pan.the pan is so dilapidated that the water wants to spill on the floor before it goes out the pipe. The handler pipe is probably clogged. I decided to add a pump. My question is, do I just thread the hose out the house and tie it to the PVC pipes that lead outside the house? The pipes flow into the neighbor's yard. They are sweet and haven't complained yet, but that's probably because the pipes are clogged. Unless otherwise instructed, my plan is to thread it outside and into my yard. Am I doing this correctly?
Thanks for watching. You might find this webpage helpful in determining some of the best practices. inspectapedia.com/aircond/Condensate_Pumps.php As well on humid days, AC units can make quite a bit of water. If that is going to be drained onto a lawn, then it needs to drain into soil that can handle that volume of water. Not all types of soil have the same drainage rate, and some will hold more than others. As well the spot that you drain will need to be graded so that the water doesn't pool or collect. You might find some information here as well todayshomeowner.com/yard-drainage-solutions-for-ac-condensation-drain-runoff/
I was told the one way valves are a pain in the ass.
I also have to send water up almost 8 ft to reach the drain pipe, I'm wondering if I should get a heavier duty pump, or have an additional one way valve half way up, as my existing pump set up is failing after only 2+ yrs, only pumping up to a foot or so.
I'm having trouble sourcing just the 1-way valve for a 554401 1.0 A pump too..
If I wanted to use 50-60 ft of hose I could drain into a sink less than 4 ft up too, minimizing the work of the pump.
What to do about this annoying problematic drainage..?
Thanks for watching. One way check valves are useful in preventing water from flowing back into the pump and triggering the float switch repetitively. You can install a check valve further down the line but it will add some resistance to the flow more than the existing check valve on the pump. Every pump is rated for a certain flow rate at different heads or vertical lengths of pipe. It would be best to look up the chart on your pump. This principle is described in our sump pump video and is a good visualization: ruclips.net/video/Iqh3rI2XX4o/видео.html Condensate pump motors are fairy basic but should be able to pump up 8 ft of head without issues. Your current pump motor might just be wearing out or it might be under-powered. If the current setup is a 1/50hp motor, then you can always upgrade to a 1/30hp pump like this one www.amresupply.com/part/554530-LG-NXTGEN-84GPH-COND-PUMP-115V If you look at the chart in the pictures, it will show that the pump can easily still output 60 gallons per minute at a 10 foot head. Also if you do need a new check valve for the pump, you can order a replacement one here: www.amresupply.com/part/154715-LG-CHECK-VALVE-3-8-inch-VC-ASSY Hope this helps!
@@AmreSupply Thanks, ya the 8-10 ft threshold means I'll upgrade when this 1 finally fails.
What would make my condensation pump continue to run...nonstop?
Thanks for watching. There are a couple things that could cause the pump to run continuously. If the outlet pipe is clogged then the water level will not drop and the float switch will stay raised causing the pump to run nonstop. Alternatively if the float switch is stuck closed then it can also cause the pump to run non-stop. Try draining the water and see if it shuts of the pump. Then monitor the level inside the basin.
Why is the water that comes out of my pump from my a.c. have an oily film. Have the pump pumping water into a new trash can that I dump a few times a day and it has an oily film on the top of the water every time and only in that one. The other pump I have on a different one has clean water coming out.
Hi Jason, thank you for watching. It could be residue from one of the pastes used on one of the fittings, a rubber o-ring that is deteriorating or it could from the AC unit itself. If you disconnect the pump and collect some of that water into a clean container, take a look and see if the oily film still is there, then its not coming from the condensate pump.
This has helped me a lot. Turns out that my installer never installed the discharge tube. They left the condensate pump unpowered and unleveled so that it sat like a diamond/rhombus and leaked from the lower end. They're going to get chewed out and I'm installing the last bit myself.
Thanks for watching we're glad the video helped you out! Its definitely frustrating when things aren't installed correctly the first time. This is why we make videos like these. The more knowledge someone has as a consumer or homeowner, the more likely they are to catch these things before the problem gets even worse. Cheers
What if the pump runs too much, excessively? The pellets look dirty. Could this be the problem? When I started the AC the pump stopped running.
Thanks for watching. The pump will run more as more condensate is created. This will be on warm / humid days where the AC is running more often. Now the discharge tube is dirty or plugged, then the pump won't drain the water as quickly and will run longer and more requently to drain the same amount of water.
AMRE Supply so what do I do then? Does someone have to come here and clean the unit out?
@@hew195050 In some cases you might be able to remove the drain tube and clean it. Either use compressed air or water to flush out any debris. As well see if the check valve is working properly as mentioned in the video.
AMRE Supply thank you soooo much!!!! I appreciate your response.
@@hew195050 You're welcome!!
Video only covers the pump not turning on. My problem is different: the pump won't stop. I've tried bending (up) the metal strip that triggers the pump, which fixes things for a short time. Unfortunately, the amount of downtime decreases until, after about four hours, it runs continuously whenever the furnace runs.
Hi Peter, thanks for watching. Bending the metal strip will adjust when the motor runs but it sounds like the metal is just bending back into place. Normally the pump will run and discharge most of the water and then turn off so one thing to check is the water level and the discharge pipe and check valve. If there's any restriction in the discharge tube, then the water level will build up and sit higher, so the float will be sitting in a position that will continuously trigger the motor.
@@AmreSupply I'm having a similar problem. My motor will not turn off. We woke up this morning and wondered what the loud noise was. It's been going for hours. The hammer seems to move up and down, the little black unit between the hose and the condensate pump wasn't blocked and I removed all the water in the plastic base. Still going... It's spring so nights get chilly, but my only solution right now is to turn off the furnace and pump. Do I just need to get a new condensate pump?
@@brettmorrison7167 If the condensate motor still runs even when the basin is empty then either the float is stuck or that the switch is faulty and is constantly pressed closed. With an empty basin you should be able to move the float manually to turn the motor on and off. If switch doesn't turn off then its probably best to get a new condensate pump.
How'd you go about making those animations?
Hi thanks for watching! The basic shapes are first created in Adobe Illustrator then animated in Adobe After Effects. If you are interested in learning there are countless tutorials on motion graphics and animating in After Effects. Just download the trial to get started.
@@AmreSupply Cool, thank ya!
@@BloominOnion1 You're welcome! Cheers
My ac shuts off because the pump gets filled. But if I unplug the pump and plug it back in it drains. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Thanks for watching. The fact that it drains at all means that it's not a blockage issue. It's worth checking to see if the float switch is triggering correctly. It might be getting stuck. As well you can check to make sure that the connections are secure and that there's no corrosion on the float switch terminals.
Thanks so much for responding! Will do!
Why is mine all of sudden making a humming sound? It is not leaking. Thanks!
Thanks for watching. If the condensate pump is making a humming sound, the motor could be starting to wear out. With the pump unplugged, you can open the cover to check if the motor is able to spin freely. Clean out any debris or mineral buildup if anything is blocking the impeller.
Am I the only one that wanted to see the pump run at the end lol?
Thanks for watching. The new pump running does not show up well on camera as the motor isn't visible and the water in the tube is transparent.
What do i do with the two wires coming out of the safety switch? The old pump doesn't have them.
Hi Richard, thank you for watching. First of all always read your new condensate pump manual as there might be some differences between models and always shut the power off at the breaker box.
The manual should mention something similar to this: The wires from the safety switch are to be wired in series with the 24V thermostat circuit. This safety switch will interrupt the signal from the thermostat to the furnace if the water level in the pump overflows (pump fails). Though the colors are not standard, commonly the Red or the R terminal will have 24VAC power from the thermostat. The thermostat wire can be cut and spliced as it will already have a connector at the end of it leading into the furnace control board.
What if you have a condensate pump that connects to the furnace?
Thanks for watching. The condensate pump might be connected in 2 ways to the furnace. The drain pipe will be connected to collect any condensate from the inducer motor. In some cases the condensate pump is also hard wired to the furnace to shut off the furnace if the water level in the pump gets too high. This is designed to prevent flooding.
My float switch won't engage. The water just overflows onto the floor. It will work if I press it manually, but it won't work on it's own. I took the gadget apart and it looks just fine. I don't understand why it's not moving when the water level hits it? Should I purchase a new one? This is only about 2 years old, and only gets used 2 months of the year. Ridiculous!
Thanks for watching. Its good that you tested verified that the float switch works manually. In some cases the float can be adjusted or "lowered" so that it is triggered by a lower water level. As well see if there is anything blocking the float from moving when the pump is fully installed with the cover on etc.
can you just buy a plastic resevoir if it is cracked?
Thanks for watching. Depending on the model, you can buy the reservoir. Older models might not be available though. We do carry replacement reservoirs for Little Giant pumps www.amresupply.com/part/12668630
Did not hear pump running. I have seen 12 videos no one has allow me to hear it running. I want to know how quiet they are. No one has compared them.
Hi Alberto, thank you for watching. Comparing loudness in videos can be difficult to show accurately but for reference this particular model is less noisy than the furnace itself. It will also only run once in a while so its not a constant background noise.
Mine keeps making a noise like a whinning noise all day on and off
Hi Cris. The whining noise is likely the motor. Condensate pumps will run occasionally throughout the day as the reservoir fills with water. Overtime the pump can get dirty, and the bearings may be worn down, so a whining noise is a sign that you need a new pump.
01/16/19 Four Seasons replaced the pump at great cost. The new pump is making the whining noise at all times during the day & night. Does that mean that I have to continue to live with this annoying noise? The old pump was quiet for many years.
So what if it's the fuse box? Or not getting electric due to a switch turned off? According to these instructions someone would change the unit not knowing it was the electric turned off. I think this video should be remade because not all home owners know it could be a popped breaker. Even a visual inspection of the cord because people have animals and yes even a mouse could have chewed up the cord. And also to check the outlet pipe for clog or even general hard water issues and how vinegar can soak and clean parts. I mean it's a good help video but should really have a little more detail for the diy home guys or gals. Also water leaks always from above so don't forget to check the pipes for water leaks because they just may change this unit and find out it was another issue like a water line dripping or running down near the unit. Or even a clogged or leaking drain from above. So they are not fooled
Hi Jermaine, thank you for watching. Those are good additional points. Overall we try to keep all our videos detailed yet concise, but its difficult to make an exhaustive list of every possible problem or describe every scenario as it depends on someones setup. Overall I think you'll find that our newer videos are a little more thorough including the series we did on water heaters. ruclips.net/video/BHUPFLbb8NY/видео.html
@@AmreSupply that's alright keep them coming back for more
@@studypartner9643 The goal is to help people the first time and considering the likes and comments on this video many people have found this tutorial very helpful. Thank you for sharing your thoughts.
@@AmreSupply it helped me I always wondered what they were
@@studypartner9643 We're happy to hear that you learned something new!
There is no reason to not try blowing out the feed tube upstream on the check valve. It's simple impeller pump and no damage can occur, and blockage there only means if you can remove it it will pump again. Good video otherwise, but as much DIY stuff the rest of it covers is more complicated that simple blockage at impeller outlet to tube that goes to check valve.
That is a great tip! Overall we do try to cover multiple solutions as what works one time for one person is not always what will work for everyone.
Basically, this repair video says, "Replace the pump". Useless video, Lance.
Thanks for watching. Troubleshooting a condensate pump is not as involved as troubleshooting the furnace itself. This video is structured in a way to help people check for the simple things first before replacing the pump as a blockage will prevent a healthy pump from running. Reading through the comments on this video, many people found this video helpful including the troubleshooting section.
Could a faulty condensate pump be signaling a “pressure switch open fault” in the furnace?
Great videos!
Thanks for watching. If the condensate pump is faulty, you'll see a high water level and it will trip the cutoff switch (if installed. In your case a "pressure switch open fault" is likely one of several issues. This is described here in this video: ruclips.net/video/b0sAGt-1niU/видео.html You'll want to make sure that the airflow is good for combustion. Make sure that the burners are clean, and the exhaust vent is clear on the outside of your home. If the flue vent is not clear, you'll get back pressure which will trip the pressure switch. As well make sure that the tubes leading into the pressure switch are not clogged. Another issue could be a clogged condensate drain (in this case the condensate pump basin would likely be bone dry, or would have a low water level overall)