dude, I love the way how you do not give a flying fuck and just give it to us like it is. Don't ever censor your personality as it really shines! Also, thanks for the tutorial on how to deal with this heating issue. Subscribed!
@@NoizieWorks You are correct! But there are people who will bend themselves backwards in order to please the companies that provide them with products and sponsor their reviews. Have a good day man and thanks again!
After installing my new board from Qidi I felt safe using the current chamber heater to print your new design - I love the way the Qidi printed the Nylon GF - it came out great. My first time using this type of filament. Love your design also. Thanks for your hard work.
But is that really a problem? (Conductivity of -cf). It’s not like the electrical leads are connected to the case (I hope), and the “heatsink” of the PTC is insulated from the leads. Looking at any given meanwell PSU for instance, the casing is metal, that’s is conducive for sure. CF is conductive, yes, but I honestly don’t think this part needs to be non-conductive. I will most likely print it in PAHT-CF. But that’s just me 🙃
Eeeerrr, scrap that.. I just took it apart and to my great surprise, never seen this in an "AC-PTC" before, the sinks are part of the circuit... So yeah, CF is a no go..
You're quite right about the communications. I'm really keen to buy one but I'm waiting for all this to settle down first, if Qidi were being more open it would help!
I live in the US and I would buy one if not for these issues and the poor response Qidi has had to these issues. I'm not averse to dealing with printers that have flaws to overcome, but Qidi's approach to these issues is very offputting.
Even though I run with a 220V system - I will still be unsure about the current SSR if QIDI did not construct it safely from the start. In addition, I would like to have a newly designed fan-shroud for free, since I print large helmets from the start - but want warranty approved parts from QIDI themselves for this change. They might ship it with the tungsten nozzle that I had to ask about why it did not come with the printer - that seems to "be sent separately at a later time". For NW - great work and kudos for sharing your works! Keep up the good work!
There have been zero issues on 230V that we know of in the community. If you want the updated chamber heater, I would contact Qidi and tell them your fan is noisy as that was the main reason for the update. If you were waiting on your early bird part, this is often a way to get it shipped sooner too.
Not a fan of the new heater, chocking the sucker into submission raising max heater temps to 140 because of it. Another terrible design on top of a bad design.
Nice work Noizie. I am glad that you brought this to everyone's attention, but unfortunately for me I had ordered and received my Plus 4 on 10-1- 24. I am not able to do the modifications that have come to light, and I am looking for someone who has made these modifications in my area. I am located in Northern California, maybe one of your subscribers can help me out with a recommendation.
Great content @NoizieWorks Just backing up your on-screen text. Between about 6 different people in the USA reporting their wattage values, there is absolutely no consistency between units. One unit at 0.4 will pull 370W, while another will do 230W, and a third will pull 150W. Basically there's no way of knowing what the correct max_power value should be for the chamber heater duty cycle. Every person will need to test their own unit to find the correct value.
The measurement should be established under the same conditions. The different powers are because the chamber heater is controlled by PID. The maximum power is about 400W, which can be measured by measuring the current. Don't trust some wrong data easily.
@mohistschool1003 at least 5 of the people reporting the power levels had AC clamps around the AC wire leading to the heater unit. PID tuning does not come into play until about 2C before the target temperature. Do not fall into the trap of so easily dismissing data. I, too, had trouble believing the variations but after communicating with those individuals directly we all came to realise that the values we were seeing were real.
I really like your design! I think you made a lot of awesome considerations. Crazy the PA6-GF was so pricey for you. It's $29.99 here regularly and I actually just scored a roll on sale for $19.07 total, though that's unusual. If I do print your model I'll likely use the same! Note that someone in the community also found a GDSTIME fan you can drop into the chamber heater and also decrease heating time and likely increase mas power level you can run without overheating the heater itself. All at anyone's own risk of course. Very interesting what you found about the power consumption. Results have been all over the map from testers as well. We really don't understand why the heaters are so inconsistent. We aren't sure if it's just QC, or heaters get damaged from old firmware, or what! All of the issues in general are really confusing. Is it possible Qidi got inconsistent parts and that's a partial explanation for their confusion and bad settings? Really just makes no sense. Still their job to check and QC, but like how can it be so inconsistent? Really hoping the updated components solve the issue for 120V users. Luckily there have been no fires, just failed components, but obviously this has to be fixed. BTW sorry it took me so long to comment after being first, but I fell asleep, hehehe. Good stuff!
We call it the EU tax which means that some things cost double or have a 21% extra tax after import making it close to a 50% price bump. The import tax war is getting crazy! And thanks btw, i'm now getting notifications from yesterday's comments lol
Oh! I do have one idea for your chamber heater design. Possibly add a printed fan grate? It may reduce flow slightly, but it would still be more than the updated small inlet design. Or possibly some angled slits like on a roof cooling unit? Just to prevent filament scraps or print pieces from getting into the fan. Would suck if a piece of filament fell on the heating element and burned up all nasty. Since it is printed with the face on the bed, would be pretty easy to print some kind of grate for the hole as well. Other noise concerns come in to play too, but still just an idea.
@ my ssr was up in smoke weeks ago and I’ve been telling them to do the right thing and warn customers to stop using it since then. Can’t have a board that melts at 40% cycle on the heater or 100% cycle on the heater. First thing I’ll be doing with the new new board is setting it to 100% and leaving it running for an hour with the thermal camera on. A real fix, with a nice high quality 10-25 amp ssr on a heatsink with a fan, can run the heater forever at full tilt. That’s the only way this is safe to sell.
hi, first of all thank you very much for everything you have done and are doing to improve and solve the problems of this printer by sharing everything publicly. I also ask you for advice, do you think that Polymaker Polymide COPA is not suitable for printing the piece you have designed? Do you think it's not resistant enough to high temperatures?
@patricklong696 Thanks Patrick, if i remember correctly copa has a way lower heat deflection point under pressure. Only testing will give the answer so for right now pa6 gf from poly is safe to use under 450W
Thanks for the video and your effort. I understand your warning, but you can make this from PACF if you are careful with your wiring and the heater strip. I have designed and created many carbon fiber electronics cases for Duet electronics without a problem. PPS is another great choice for this enclosure and it is available without carbon fiber. I knew this was going to be an issue, so I pre-ordered a new heater with my printer so I wouldn't have to tear apart the heater in the printer. I subscribed to your yt channel and I follow you on Printables.
Thanks Michael, the reason why no CF is that the complete heater is Live. The fins are getting full AC so mixing that up with carbon filament doesn't sound like the best thing.
I understood that part. You can purchase PPA and PPS wothout carbon fiber, these would be other solutions to pa6 gf. I have several hundred kg of PAGF on site, just giving options. 😊
@@NoizieWorks never had any issues with CF filled materials being so conductive as to short something, the resistance is so high that it can't even be measured. I tried making a PTC mount out of PAGF and saw heat related issues on the contact points. I would stick to PPS or PPA.
Great vid, but please explain why a -cf filament should not be used, I would chose PAHT-CF for this part, it’s not like there’s electrical wires touching the case and the PTC “heatsink” is not connected to the conductive leads of the element
I'll answer that myself.. I just took it apart and to my great surprise, never seen this in an "AC-PTC" before, the sinks are part of the circuit... So yeah, CF is a no go..
Can you share your PA6-GF printer settings? Those prints look great. I keep getting first layer blistering and it looks like you have it dialed in already. Smaller test prints (i.e. a Benchy) look amazing with this material.
tried it, didn't work for me. If i recall correctly is stops "checking" so you don't trip the safety from dropping temps to much unless i did something wrong.
Great information as always. The chamber heater was almost rendered useless after last update (soooo slow) and Qidi tech not really admitting it. Will the printer.cfg file need modifying after each firmware update with the new values?
@daveedmunds7854 Thanks and yes, for every update it will default to the now 0.4 pwm. If you did the testing it's as easy as just changing the number again.
From the USA, holding off on buying the Plus 4 until they fix the issue and address some of the other issues. I see really good and really bad reviews all over reddit on the Plus4. The machine seems to have great potential but not worth burning down my house for one. Will they call a fixed unit the GEN II Plus 4 or hide it from everyone. It's a shame, I heard they have good support..
Thanks for this!!! Polymaker PA-GF ordered. Luckily, I had some reward points to reduce the cost slightly. Since I have an Omron SSR installed and am now back to running 70% power (tempted to go 100%), do you think this PA-GF can deal with the increased heat continuously with the increased power?
I had a power supply with a nonfunctional cooling fan which would cause it to thermally shutdown regularly. I contacted Qidi support, told them what the issue was in detail... After 2 months of back and forth, with them sending me every replacement part EXCEPT for a new PS, they finally sent a power supply. Nice people, but not good at support. I get the impression that support is trying to catch up to the design iteration speed, and failing hard at it.
I really want to buy a Plus 4, but I think I'll wait until Qidi can fix their shit. I dont want to buy an $800 printer and then have to build parts for it to fix its problems. Same with the chamber heater circuit board melting down, which Qidi customer support insists is NOT a fire hazard. Because, of course, smoke coming from a device that's literally melting from extreme heat is not a fire hazard. Trust me bro.
LOVELY , did you print its on 0.4mm nozzle ??? i am planning to print mine as well , but not sure if 0.4 mm nozzle od QIDI PLUS 4 will work okay and not clog !!!
Great work again dude! I've got a deal for you... If you could do me a solid and check/record the stepper motor temps on your Qidi Plus 4 - I will buy you a beer ($10 AUD) to say thanks. My X driver is reading 90-100C in standby and 115C while printing. The Y driver ranges from 80-105C depending on load. I know the motors are generally rated to withstand reasonably high temps, but should I be worried?? Cheers form the land of Oz
@DaltoeMusic no need to buy me a beer unless you want to but yes my steppers also get between 95 and 110c. It's "normal" but there is a new backplate you can print to put in a bigger fan that drops 20 to 30C. It's on printables.
Thanks for the heads-up, I will check it out. I'm a man of my word, so $10aud coming your way, hopefully it's still enough to buy a beer with inflation 👀
I'm just gonna cuss here.. Ives!! YOU FUCKING ROCK!!! Sorry, with all the crap RE: SSR board going on I totally missed this video! You need something special for making this. Dude, do you like bourbon? Would you like some smooth Kentucky REAL bourbon? I have export connections. 😏 You know how to reach me! *Hillbilly Engineer*
No idea, i believe it's 5A on the relay itself but don't quote me on that. The coil is not happy between 3 and 4A on the vid from 3D Musketeers pulling under 400W getting over 170C
@@NoizieWorks Even if it's 10A it'll be too much causes heat for 110V. I think generally 25A is used for 110V. But as for us in EU can get away with 10A as I have a few printers with 10A and have been running okay for more than a year.
Sorry I'm new to all this, am I right in thinking the machine is using about 500watts an hour? If so it's going to cost a fortune to run here in the UK That's about £1 every 4 hours
Electricity is even more expensive in Germany. We have to pay around 40 euro cents per kWh here and the price rises almost every year. On top of that, there are monthly basic charges. For 3000 KW of electricity per year, you pay €1340 and more here. It depends on the provider.
@krue9497 oof! That's a lot! Now they want us to drive electric... If not, fossil fuel is getting A LOT more expensive in 2027 and onwards with the hole EU green deal BS
So I go and spend $800 on a printer and then I have to fix an over heating problem on my own dime. I'm sorry this is not acceptable - the fix is great but I'm not paying to fix a problem that the company must be responsible for - they should be banned from selling any of their dangerous printers until it is fixed properly by them.
My plus4 has been a damn nightmare. Not only do I have all the same issues as everyone that is 110v, but my plus4 prints like absolute shyte. Extremely bad vfa's, wavy artifacts,.ringing, atrocious layer line quality, makes tons of resonance noises that it sounds like my plus4 is gonna self-destructive and shake into a million pieces. My belts are riding on every pulley flange really badly, tons of graphite I am wiping off my lower rail too. The one thing I don't have is that my lower bearing is not loose. I am so pissed off, 2 🤬 weeks I've been working on mine and I am getting nowhere but more pissed off! The ghosting on my plus4 prints is appalling af. My left stepper motor was barely hand tight on my plus4. Thats is not even mentioning the melting ssr, I can work around the heater issues if mine didn't have the print quality of a broken 1st gen ender3 for 10 years ago.
I just got mine and it's epic😂 I cannot believe the print quality and accuracy. I'm not worried about the SSR, it's a couple screws and wires. Theres nothing out there that has the performance to dollar. So for some of us- 800 is a GRIP of money but it's worth it. The alternatives cost more and do less. Plus I get another free year of total warranty😂 worth a couple screws and wires. It's literally a couple screws, and a couple wires. Changing the nozzle in my last printer was more involved than that😂
Yeah I've been logging a few hours and taking note of some QC issues, some minor, some concerning. I think the printer specs is excellent for the price, and the print quality seems great, but corners inevitably need to be cut when reducing costs. I'm worried they trimmed just a bit too much and didn't test thoroughly enough before launching. I am seriously considering a return/replacement under warranty and will be listing 3-4 issues with my specific unit, as well as pointing to the quite serious defect that others have reported. I'm actually hanging back a bit to see if they recall the first batch.
But is it also necessary for those who live in 240V countries? I thought there was only the relay problem for 110v countries. In any case, great work, thanks!
Nah, too many issues with Qidi printers over and over again. They don't learn the most basic lessons. Granted, they were among the first to bring heated chambers to the masses, and I wanted to like them, but now plenty of manufacturers have caught on and Qidi just looks like idiots.
How can qidi be this incompetent. This isn't that hard. A $20 SSR from Amazon can easily run 15A. I build my insulated heated voron trident based on the spicy meatball project and just using the same type of SSR for chamber heater as the bed simply works and works safely. I'm using 2 300w heaters and they're mounted at the bottom, behind the bed, so the bed can't physically do anything to block the heater airflow. This this really amateur hour. Bambu would have recalled this fire hazard, why is qidi getting a pass and not being ripped to shreds for delivery this mess.
I warning all of you now. My plus4 is a living nightmare. Not only does it have tons of issues that are well known, but my plus4 prints are worse than a 1st gen ender 3 that was improperly put together. It's that f'ing bad! The prints off mine are atrocious af, horrible vfa's, and wavy artifacts all over every print. Extremely terrible uneven layer lines, it clogs and jams constantly, terrible ringing and the worse artifacts. I have been running through problem solving for 2 weeks, trying to fix this p🤬s and nothing has worked. Mine had loose screws all over my printer, including my back left stepper wasnt even hand tightened on the mounting screws. I got a good 3 turns on all 4 screws! My belts literally ride every damn flange on every damn pulley. The aluminum rubbing off on my belts is shocking/astonishing af. I also have a ton of graphite that I am wiping off my lower rail from the bushing after every print. And no, my lower hotend bearing is not loose, so save it with "your lower bearing is loose, follow their instructions." It's not f'ing loose. And yes, i am up to date on the firmware. All i own is qidi printers, 7 qidi printers i bought for their customer service. They have handled this poorly, and i am so pissed off and frustrated af, they might have lost me as a loyal customer. I am so pissed, i am about to take a sledgehammer to mine and throw it off my f🤬kin deck. I am boiling pissed right now.
Sounds like you or have shipping damage or you are out of luck and got an absolute lemon. Did you contact support? I would demand a refund if i was you.
I see you are frustrated and that's ok, you should not have a bad experience on any system. On regards of the brand loyalty, don't because a brand will never be loyal to you. It's all about the money, ask for a return and try your luck on another brand. Unfortunately, not for the same money but you have options.
Can i get some thumbs for Polymaker 👍👍total champs, didn't even know about this.
This mod could actually be the tipping point in my choice over the P1s.
Love the perseverance BTW 👍
@@qbobcode1823 thanks!
dude, I love the way how you do not give a flying fuck and just give it to us like it is. Don't ever censor your personality as it really shines! Also, thanks for the tutorial on how to deal with this heating issue. Subscribed!
@craigedwards2411 That's the point of being a reviewer no? Thanks brother!
@@NoizieWorks You are correct! But there are people who will bend themselves backwards in order to please the companies that provide them with products and sponsor their reviews. Have a good day man and thanks again!
After installing my new board from Qidi I felt safe using the current chamber heater to print your new design - I love the way the Qidi printed the Nylon GF - it came out great. My first time using this type of filament. Love your design also. Thanks for your hard work.
@ScottSuleski Thanks Scott!
And next beer is on you! Cheers
Thank you for all of your hard work!
Thanks dude!
Thanks for the video Noizie. Good point on CF filaments being conductive, Looks like I need to grab some PA-GF.
But is that really a problem? (Conductivity of -cf). It’s not like the electrical leads are connected to the case (I hope), and the “heatsink” of the PTC is insulated from the leads. Looking at any given meanwell PSU for instance, the casing is metal, that’s is conducive for sure. CF is conductive, yes, but I honestly don’t think this part needs to be non-conductive. I will most likely print it in PAHT-CF. But that’s just me 🙃
Eeeerrr, scrap that.. I just took it apart and to my great surprise, never seen this in an "AC-PTC" before, the sinks are part of the circuit... So yeah, CF is a no go..
You're quite right about the communications. I'm really keen to buy one but I'm waiting for all this to settle down first, if Qidi were being more open it would help!
exactly
I live in the US and I would buy one if not for these issues and the poor response Qidi has had to these issues. I'm not averse to dealing with printers that have flaws to overcome, but Qidi's approach to these issues is very offputting.
@@MisterDeets Even creality and sovol made statements on the K1 extrudere and the SV08 nozzle so maybe it's a ego thing?
Even though I run with a 220V system - I will still be unsure about the current SSR if QIDI did not construct it safely from the start.
In addition, I would like to have a newly designed fan-shroud for free, since I print large helmets from the start - but want warranty approved parts from QIDI themselves for this change. They might ship it with the tungsten nozzle that I had to ask about why it did not come with the printer - that seems to "be sent separately at a later time".
For NW - great work and kudos for sharing your works! Keep up the good work!
There have been zero issues on 230V that we know of in the community. If you want the updated chamber heater, I would contact Qidi and tell them your fan is noisy as that was the main reason for the update. If you were waiting on your early bird part, this is often a way to get it shipped sooner too.
Not a fan of the new heater, chocking the sucker into submission raising max heater temps to 140 because of it.
Another terrible design on top of a bad design.
@@NoizieWorks It certainly seems like a VERY small inlet!
Nice work Noizie. I am glad that you brought this to everyone's attention, but unfortunately for me I had ordered and received my Plus 4 on 10-1- 24. I am not able to do the modifications that have come to light, and I am looking for someone who has made these modifications in my area. I am located in Northern California, maybe one of your subscribers can help me out with a recommendation.
I would recommend you to go to the qidi discord server and ask this on the plus 4 section. I'm on there to @NoiZie
Thank you. Hopefully qidi recalls those parts
That would be the play, enough YT jumping on the wagon so i'm hopefull. Last thing i want is for the shed going up in smoke.
Great content @NoizieWorks
Just backing up your on-screen text. Between about 6 different people in the USA reporting their wattage values, there is absolutely no consistency between units. One unit at 0.4 will pull 370W, while another will do 230W, and a third will pull 150W. Basically there's no way of knowing what the correct max_power value should be for the chamber heater duty cycle. Every person will need to test their own unit to find the correct value.
@@stew675 Yup, that's why i showed how to adjust for it. Btw, thanks for all your work to brother✌️
The measurement should be established under the same conditions. The different powers are because the chamber heater is controlled by PID. The maximum power is about 400W, which can be measured by measuring the current. Don't trust some wrong data easily.
@mohistschool1003 at least 5 of the people reporting the power levels had AC clamps around the AC wire leading to the heater unit. PID tuning does not come into play until about 2C before the target temperature.
Do not fall into the trap of so easily dismissing data. I, too, had trouble believing the variations but after communicating with those individuals directly we all came to realise that the values we were seeing were real.
Awesome work! Did start my membership to you chanel today you well deserved it!
@hansdampft561 Thanks dude! I appreciate it brother
First! Excited for results.
@@802Garage Exited to hear them to!
Excellent no Bullshit video
Great stuff 👍
Nicely done!
@@ygk3d thanks!
Thank you for this great work!
I really like your design! I think you made a lot of awesome considerations. Crazy the PA6-GF was so pricey for you. It's $29.99 here regularly and I actually just scored a roll on sale for $19.07 total, though that's unusual. If I do print your model I'll likely use the same!
Note that someone in the community also found a GDSTIME fan you can drop into the chamber heater and also decrease heating time and likely increase mas power level you can run without overheating the heater itself. All at anyone's own risk of course.
Very interesting what you found about the power consumption. Results have been all over the map from testers as well. We really don't understand why the heaters are so inconsistent. We aren't sure if it's just QC, or heaters get damaged from old firmware, or what!
All of the issues in general are really confusing. Is it possible Qidi got inconsistent parts and that's a partial explanation for their confusion and bad settings? Really just makes no sense. Still their job to check and QC, but like how can it be so inconsistent?
Really hoping the updated components solve the issue for 120V users. Luckily there have been no fires, just failed components, but obviously this has to be fixed. BTW sorry it took me so long to comment after being first, but I fell asleep, hehehe. Good stuff!
We call it the EU tax which means that some things cost double or have a 21% extra tax after import making it close to a 50% price bump.
The import tax war is getting crazy! And thanks btw, i'm now getting notifications from yesterday's comments lol
2:45 Probe should be in contact with heater (thermal paste recommended). It's super important!
@@marek5812 got it!
Oh! I do have one idea for your chamber heater design. Possibly add a printed fan grate? It may reduce flow slightly, but it would still be more than the updated small inlet design. Or possibly some angled slits like on a roof cooling unit? Just to prevent filament scraps or print pieces from getting into the fan. Would suck if a piece of filament fell on the heating element and burned up all nasty. Since it is printed with the face on the bed, would be pretty easy to print some kind of grate for the hole as well. Other noise concerns come in to play too, but still just an idea.
Got it! First a break 🍺
Told you we needed a recall!!
@Tom-wp9ix Yes you did! We have solid prove now so let's hope they put their ego away for a minute and do what's right.
@ my ssr was up in smoke weeks ago and I’ve been telling them to do the right thing and warn customers to stop using it since then. Can’t have a board that melts at 40% cycle on the heater or 100% cycle on the heater. First thing I’ll be doing with the new new board is setting it to 100% and leaving it running for an hour with the thermal camera on. A real fix, with a nice high quality 10-25 amp ssr on a heatsink with a fan, can run the heater forever at full tilt. That’s the only way this is safe to sell.
Thank you for doing what qidi wouldn't 🎉
I almost made that the title 😆thought it would be to smug
@NoizieWorks not one bit at this point 😊
hi, first of all thank you very much for everything you have done and are doing to improve and solve the problems of this printer by sharing everything publicly. I also ask you for advice, do you think that Polymaker Polymide COPA is not suitable for printing the piece you have designed? Do you think it's not resistant enough to high temperatures?
@patricklong696 Thanks Patrick, if i remember correctly copa has a way lower heat deflection point under pressure.
Only testing will give the answer so for right now pa6 gf from poly is safe to use under 450W
Thanks for the video and your effort. I understand your warning, but you can make this from PACF if you are careful with your wiring and the heater strip. I have designed and created many carbon fiber electronics cases for Duet electronics without a problem. PPS is another great choice for this enclosure and it is available without carbon fiber. I knew this was going to be an issue, so I pre-ordered a new heater with my printer so I wouldn't have to tear apart the heater in the printer. I subscribed to your yt channel and I follow you on Printables.
Thanks Michael, the reason why no CF is that the complete heater is Live. The fins are getting full AC so mixing that up with carbon filament doesn't sound like the best thing.
I understood that part. You can purchase PPA and PPS wothout carbon fiber, these would be other solutions to pa6 gf. I have several hundred kg of PAGF on site, just giving options. 😊
@@MichaelJHathaway oeh, jealous!
@@NoizieWorks never had any issues with CF filled materials being so conductive as to short something, the resistance is so high that it can't even be measured. I tried making a PTC mount out of PAGF and saw heat related issues on the contact points. I would stick to PPS or PPA.
@kazolar It probably is but i'm preaching for safety hear so better be safe than sorry.
Thank you!
270mm is defined in the printer.cfg in 'verify_heater chamber' section as position_z.
Thanks dude!
Great vid, but please explain why a -cf filament should not be used, I would chose PAHT-CF for this part, it’s not like there’s electrical wires touching the case and the PTC “heatsink” is not connected to the conductive leads of the element
I'll answer that myself.. I just took it apart and to my great surprise, never seen this in an "AC-PTC" before, the sinks are part of the circuit... So yeah, CF is a no go..
Yes, just like the Q1 pro. I hear it shouldn't be a problem but let's just not try it right.
Can you share your PA6-GF printer settings? Those prints look great. I keep getting first layer blistering and it looks like you have it dialed in already. Smaller test prints (i.e. a Benchy) look amazing with this material.
You probably want some more z offset for this filament as it flows really well. I'm at 290-50 and 50 on the chamber.
Flow max 10mm³ and flow 1.0
To remove the change that turns it off at position 270, under [verify_heater chamber] remove position_z: 270
tried it, didn't work for me. If i recall correctly is stops "checking" so you don't trip the safety from dropping temps to much unless i did something wrong.
This looks great. Do you think ABS-GF will be suitable for this?
@JohnDoe-ot5ir probably not but you can try, make sure to tune pwm
Have you tried it?
I was about to order ABS-GF, but just came back to the video to check what filament was used.😅
Need to look for the filament specs, every brand has different glass transition temps. Polymide pa6GF seems to hold up
Quick question, not sure if I missed it in the video, but what device were you using to monitor the power consumption and get a display like that?
I'm using one of those tuya smart home plugs with internat power monitoring. Far from ideal but a good indication.
@@NoizieWorks Nice I went researching after and picked up a couple similar plugs. :)
Great information as always. The chamber heater was almost rendered useless after last update (soooo slow) and Qidi tech not really admitting it. Will the printer.cfg file need modifying after each firmware update with the new values?
@daveedmunds7854 Thanks and yes, for every update it will default to the now 0.4 pwm.
If you did the testing it's as easy as just changing the number again.
Bah now i have to buy some GF filament. I've been so good and not ordered fancy filament this month.
😂
Sorry not sorry lol!
From the USA, holding off on buying the Plus 4 until they fix the issue and address some of the other issues. I see really good and really bad reviews all over reddit on the Plus4. The machine seems to have great potential but not worth burning down my house for one. Will they call a fixed unit the GEN II Plus 4 or hide it from everyone. It's a shame, I heard they have good support..
Probably the last option... I will try to keep them accountable but unfortunately the BIG youtubers have already carried on.
Thanks for this!!! Polymaker PA-GF ordered. Luckily, I had some reward points to reduce the cost slightly. Since I have an Omron SSR installed and am now back to running 70% power (tempted to go 100%), do you think this PA-GF can deal with the increased heat continuously with the increased power?
@theFPVgeek i tested .7 and 470-80W that has been fine any more who knows🤷♂️😆 but if you try it, i want to know about it!
I had a power supply with a nonfunctional cooling fan which would cause it to thermally shutdown regularly. I contacted Qidi support, told them what the issue was in detail... After 2 months of back and forth, with them sending me every replacement part EXCEPT for a new PS, they finally sent a power supply. Nice people, but not good at support. I get the impression that support is trying to catch up to the design iteration speed, and failing hard at it.
That is probably the case, they are getting swamped with requests to
What problem this fixes? Nice design effort though.. loving my Qidi4
It fixes all the qidi hacks with this ruclips.net/video/znY3HlXec3k/видео.html
I really want to buy a Plus 4, but I think I'll wait until Qidi can fix their shit. I dont want to buy an $800 printer and then have to build parts for it to fix its problems. Same with the chamber heater circuit board melting down, which Qidi customer support insists is NOT a fire hazard. Because, of course, smoke coming from a device that's literally melting from extreme heat is not a fire hazard. Trust me bro.
@@DeusExAstra yeah, only it's not LTT
LOVELY , did you print its on 0.4mm nozzle ??? i am planning to print mine as well , but not sure if 0.4 mm nozzle od QIDI PLUS 4 will work okay and not clog !!!
Yes .4 works fine on any glass or cf filled fillaments from good brands.
@@NoizieWorks i have the stock .04 that came QIDI PLUS 4 , i think its hardened steel one
@@draddy2444 Stock is hardened steel, the other nozzle always get's shipped separately
@ so that means stock 0.4 can print the pagf ,, right ?
@@draddy2444 that's correct, i tested pa6gf and petgcf and both work great
One house fire away from a seize and desist with the plus 4 right now
I'm afraid so
Did you test if your new shell effects the chamber warmup times at all?
@a0fiore13 Yes, no real difference. You could put something in the corner to bend the air a bit more but it's a nice balanced flow.
What problem does this solve. I understand the relay issue but what does the new box fix
ruclips.net/video/znY3HlXec3k/видео.html
Great work again dude! I've got a deal for you... If you could do me a solid and check/record the stepper motor temps on your Qidi Plus 4 - I will buy you a beer ($10 AUD) to say thanks. My X driver is reading 90-100C in standby and 115C while printing. The Y driver ranges from 80-105C depending on load. I know the motors are generally rated to withstand reasonably high temps, but should I be worried?? Cheers form the land of Oz
@DaltoeMusic no need to buy me a beer unless you want to but yes my steppers also get between 95 and 110c.
It's "normal" but there is a new backplate you can print to put in a bigger fan that drops 20 to 30C.
It's on printables.
Thanks for the heads-up, I will check it out. I'm a man of my word, so $10aud coming your way, hopefully it's still enough to buy a beer with inflation 👀
@DaltoeMusic it sure is in Belgium! Thanks dude ✌️
I'm just gonna cuss here..
Ives!! YOU FUCKING ROCK!!!
Sorry, with all the crap RE: SSR board going on I totally missed this video! You need something special for making this.
Dude, do you like bourbon? Would you like some smooth Kentucky REAL bourbon?
I have export connections. 😏
You know how to reach me!
*Hillbilly Engineer*
I'll take you on that! Can you shoot me a message? So many chats going on that I don't know where to start searching. Ig,messenger dm me
What's the Max amps spec for the SSR? 10A? 25A?
No idea, i believe it's 5A on the relay itself but don't quote me on that. The coil is not happy between 3 and 4A on the vid from 3D Musketeers pulling under 400W getting over 170C
@@NoizieWorks Even if it's 10A it'll be too much causes heat for 110V. I think generally 25A is used for 110V. But as for us in EU can get away with 10A as I have a few printers with 10A and have been running okay for more than a year.
The temp of x&y driver would be interesting
@@exxos104 planning on a fan mod for the back cover, the fan now is massively underpowered.
@@NoizieWorks I know that , but a German RUclipsr has Bild a update cover for different fans
@@exxos104 can you link me?
@@NoizieWorks ruclips.net/video/_E4uhcK-M9c/видео.htmlsi=HZ-dlOggqvXAGKC-
@@NoizieWorks the video it’s from Arnos 3d , 32 Qidi Plus 4 mods
building an SSR vs getting one of the shelf, how to try to save money at the risk of hasard!
Nice, so now when it catches fire, Qidi can blame the user for it.
@user-lx9jm1wo3h that's another way to look at it 😆 but lowering the thermal protection sensor to 90c should help prevent it.
Sorry I'm new to all this, am I right in thinking the machine is using about 500watts an hour? If so it's going to cost a fortune to run here in the UK
That's about £1 every 4 hours
You are right but that's on full power until temperature is at the setpoint. After that it drops a lot.
Electricity is even more expensive in Germany. We have to pay around 40 euro cents per kWh here and the price rises almost every year. On top of that, there are monthly basic charges. For 3000 KW of electricity per year, you pay €1340 and more here. It depends on the provider.
@krue9497 oof! That's a lot! Now they want us to drive electric... If not, fossil fuel is getting A LOT more expensive in 2027 and onwards with the hole EU green deal BS
@@NoizieWorks As long as people play along with the game, nothing will change.
@krue9497 I'm afraid that the people are no longer in control of anything politically related.
🤷♂️
So I go and spend $800 on a printer and then I have to fix an over heating problem on my own dime. I'm sorry this is not acceptable - the fix is great but I'm not paying to fix a problem that the company must be responsible for - they should be banned from selling any of their dangerous printers until it is fixed properly by them.
@nortonshields8405 i agree, a recall is necessary. Not everyone can and will fix this issue so they need to do something.
My plus4 has been a damn nightmare. Not only do I have all the same issues as everyone that is 110v, but my plus4 prints like absolute shyte. Extremely bad vfa's, wavy artifacts,.ringing, atrocious layer line quality, makes tons of resonance noises that it sounds like my plus4 is gonna self-destructive and shake into a million pieces. My belts are riding on every pulley flange really badly, tons of graphite I am wiping off my lower rail too. The one thing I don't have is that my lower bearing is not loose. I am so pissed off, 2 🤬 weeks I've been working on mine and I am getting nowhere but more pissed off! The ghosting on my plus4 prints is appalling af. My left stepper motor was barely hand tight on my plus4. Thats is not even mentioning the melting ssr, I can work around the heater issues if mine didn't have the print quality of a broken 1st gen ender3 for 10 years ago.
I just got mine and it's epic😂 I cannot believe the print quality and accuracy. I'm not worried about the SSR, it's a couple screws and wires. Theres nothing out there that has the performance to dollar. So for some of us- 800 is a GRIP of money but it's worth it. The alternatives cost more and do less. Plus I get another free year of total warranty😂 worth a couple screws and wires. It's literally a couple screws, and a couple wires. Changing the nozzle in my last printer was more involved than that😂
Yeah I've been logging a few hours and taking note of some QC issues, some minor, some concerning. I think the printer specs is excellent for the price, and the print quality seems great, but corners inevitably need to be cut when reducing costs. I'm worried they trimmed just a bit too much and didn't test thoroughly enough before launching. I am seriously considering a return/replacement under warranty and will be listing 3-4 issues with my specific unit, as well as pointing to the quite serious defect that others have reported. I'm actually hanging back a bit to see if they recall the first batch.
But is it also necessary for those who live in 240V countries?
I thought there was only the relay problem for 110v countries.
In any case, great work, thanks!
Yes 110V is the problem 220 is fine
Nah, too many issues with Qidi printers over and over again. They don't learn the most basic lessons. Granted, they were among the first to bring heated chambers to the masses, and I wanted to like them, but now plenty of manufacturers have caught on and Qidi just looks like idiots.
Really hoping on a mentality change right now.
How can qidi be this incompetent. This isn't that hard. A $20 SSR from Amazon can easily run 15A. I build my insulated heated voron trident based on the spicy meatball project and just using the same type of SSR for chamber heater as the bed simply works and works safely. I'm using 2 300w heaters and they're mounted at the bottom, behind the bed, so the bed can't physically do anything to block the heater airflow. This this really amateur hour. Bambu would have recalled this fire hazard, why is qidi getting a pass and not being ripped to shreds for delivery this mess.
💯
I warning all of you now. My plus4 is a living nightmare. Not only does it have tons of issues that are well known, but my plus4 prints are worse than a 1st gen ender 3 that was improperly put together. It's that f'ing bad! The prints off mine are atrocious af, horrible vfa's, and wavy artifacts all over every print. Extremely terrible uneven layer lines, it clogs and jams constantly, terrible ringing and the worse artifacts. I have been running through problem solving for 2 weeks, trying to fix this p🤬s and nothing has worked. Mine had loose screws all over my printer, including my back left stepper wasnt even hand tightened on the mounting screws. I got a good 3 turns on all 4 screws! My belts literally ride every damn flange on every damn pulley. The aluminum rubbing off on my belts is shocking/astonishing af. I also have a ton of graphite that I am wiping off my lower rail from the bushing after every print. And no, my lower hotend bearing is not loose, so save it with "your lower bearing is loose, follow their instructions." It's not f'ing loose. And yes, i am up to date on the firmware. All i own is qidi printers, 7 qidi printers i bought for their customer service. They have handled this poorly, and i am so pissed off and frustrated af, they might have lost me as a loyal customer. I am so pissed, i am about to take a sledgehammer to mine and throw it off my f🤬kin deck. I am boiling pissed right now.
Sounds like you or have shipping damage or you are out of luck and got an absolute lemon. Did you contact support? I would demand a refund if i was you.
I see you are frustrated and that's ok, you should not have a bad experience on any system.
On regards of the brand loyalty, don't because a brand will never be loyal to you. It's all about the money, ask for a return and try your luck on another brand.
Unfortunately, not for the same money but you have options.