I, and many others on the Qidi Discord server have made this mod. It works well and completely solves the issue. Great job on creating excellent content that demonstrates on how to perform the fix. It looks like you linked to Spooknik's wiring diagram too. Good job.
When I initially saw this I couldn't believe they didn't use a reputable SSR, they're known to be failure points on 3D printers and have caused fires in the past. Panasonic and OMRON are good brands and good to oversize it amp-wise.
Good tutorial. I would highly recommend using thermo grease between the SSR and heatsink and between the thermo fuse and heatsink. This will significantly increase the heat transfer.
I think I agree with Qidi that the risk of fire is pretty low - the original board does have a fuse (small black component labeled T4A250V) and a metal oxide varistor (component designated RV1) to prevent current spikes in the event of a short circuit (like the coil overheating, melting off all the coating on the windings, and short circuiting). The SSR is the yellow block (labeled GJ-5-L and denoted as an S.S.R. on the label). The fact that they used common engineering practices for electrical safety doesn't make the fact that they still have a major design flaw any less significant. The replacement SSR is probably overengineered for the application, but that doesn't mean much if it works. It should run a lot cooler.
@@3DPrintSOS The area above 90 degrees should be thermistor (NTC), which is used in many places and is within the normal operating temperature range. Of course, players who know technology can upgrade their equipment by themselves to increase the power of the heater. I saw a modification that heated the PLUS4 chamber to 80 degrees. It is not recommended for general users to modify.
10A SSR of a brand name should be fine, I'd probably go up to a 15A for peace of mind, also some thermal paste between SSR and heatsink. Fan is probably overkill. Nice to see someone do this swap, thanks for sharing! Qidi, you REALLY shouldn't cheap out on this part, really bad bad bad choice.
I was about to get this Printer a while back and saw you post about this issue,so I held off. Since this issue can be fixed now,think I will go ahead and get it. Its good that they are willing to ship another board,but as you mentioned these parts are much better.
I have the new board from QiDi and it looks fine and I don't think there is an issue with it warranting the need to use a SSR module. The new board is basically an SSR that is not encapsulated.
I leaned this way because 1. the original, despite them saying it was “fine", clearly failed big time and melted. (That hits differently when it’s In my home with my family) 2. the second one which is also “fine" was reading 100c within 20 minutes during my livestream. I just lost all trust in that component and MUCH rather have this in my personal machine as I have experience with them and trust them. I understand why you’d disagree and that's ok. I still love this machine.
Also did you notice that the heatsink is actually hotter from the plastic separating the chamber than the SSR when you were measuring it? The backing plate is hotter than the SSR.
Thank you for all this information. Could you provide the actual amazon link or description of the jst plugs that you’re using for your add on wiring harnesses? Thank you in advance
Oh looks like I forgot to include that link. I bought this kit for JST XH connectors because it had a tool and dupont for other projects as well: amzn.to/498KkTq I used the included wires (from this kit) to make the fan splitter. Thank you for bringing this to my attention.
I would wash the bed with hot water and dish soap. then I would apply a thin coat of glue stick. one thing that goes a long way is letting the chamber and bed heat soak. at least 10-15 minutes. I usually do this before slicing. that way by the time I slice, the machine is hot and ready.
Another great video as always. I have received a tracking number from QIDI for the replacement SSR board. They have also sent out a "new" wifi dongle for my machine on a separate ticket. I can't wait for the multi-material unit to be available. Something tells me that it will have been tested and ready when it finally arrives 😉.
Thanks Fedor! I just have one question. How did you get that fan mount printed in PETG so quickly? Usually it takes at least a few days when you order printed parts and we all know how much you love PETG! 😂 Sorry, couldn't resist! Appreciate the helpful videos as always!
Nice! This is the Omron I used.. but didnt use that print and fan setup, so think I'll redo that along with the heater case mod that directs the heat away from the bed when its at the bottom. This is a bit nicer
@TC-dk6do technically, so is the heatsink. The point of this is to never worry about it again. It’s overbuilt, has multiple safety’s in place, yet inexpensive.
Ich will das heizbett mit einem ssr auf 230v umbauen. Da mir das originale zu langsam aufheizt. Hast du mal dein ssr ohne den Lüfter , nur mit dem Kühlkörpern versucht?
I have not in this application. But I have this SSR on my Voron machines and many people do as well. All without heatsinks or fans. So this is just a way to make it overkill and not to have to worry about it.
If your heatsink on an SSR is going to 95c or higher, things are REALLY REALLY wrong. Heatsink on an SSR should not be higher than 50c. If you look at the spicy-meatball project, that has really good safety protections on how to wire the chamber heater. Which is really terrible that Qidi screwed this up so badly. FYI those IR temperature readers can't read from bare aluminum, put a piece of blue tape on the heatsink, and read the temp from the tape. Heatsink/SSR should be grounded.
See, my problem is that I'd be dealing with electrical components, while totally blind. I'm an independent person but even I know it's not exactly harmless to do this. I'll probably just wait like a good year for Qidi to make printers that don't have the same board they had at launch so I don't have to worry about going through wiring to install a board. But for those who can do this, more power to you. I just don't trust myself to not get killed or seriously injured trying this out.
I have had it with my Qidi Max3 get about 5 prints out of it then the nightmare starts all over. I dont even want to power it on anymore. Think on black Friday im going to give in and buy a bambu. printers or a 2nd SV08 I own Prusa MK2, ender 3, CR-10S, CR-10S Pro x2, Qidi Max3, SV08. The software is very bugged on the Max3. it dont like to save Z changes get about 5 perfect prints then Z is off again. Think i have had to adjust the Z offset more times on this printer then i have on my CR-10S pro from the time i have owned it 2018 i think when i got the pro's ?
It is the switching on and off that generates the heat. Adding an SSR to cut power in case of failure, is also a way to go. On top of the fuse. The safety SSR will not be having the same struggle, as it will not have to deal with an indecisive controller, telling it constantly yes and no till the end of time. I sort of feel the lack of innovation from the industry on this one. An age old Ender 3 bed generates safely 220W of heat, and has a stellar safety record. It also has a ton of surface area, so even a slight breeze will cool it. It can be done both silent and safe. To name one option. As a design, the heater on the plus 4 feels dumb and inelegant. The least impressive, is the Qidi response to their failure. Remains to be seen, as to if they actually can design and innovate, or if this stupidity is their way of doing things.
@@FrodeBergetonNilsen They had a few official statements that I posted on my community page. The admitted they made a mistake and offer an updated part and an extra year of warranty or a full refund. They also mentioned that they will now do more testing internally and externally before releasing products.
@@3DPrintSOS Sure. But the mistake was not "inferior internal testing". The design is stupid and adhoc, more like a mod. That is a leadership thing, and a test for them. A heated chamber is not just adding a heater, in a hap hazard manner, but a ton of issues follows with it. As in a completely different type of design, ground up. This is like a caveman wanting to warm up his new home, so he makes a fire in the middle of. It sure heats things up. It is also very cost effective, as all the cave man needs, is some wood and something to light a fire. He will also tell you, that this is perfectly safe, because he has been doing this in caves for years. Just saying. Let's see if they remain cave men, or they adopt to living in a house.
Is anyone else having issues with, heat creep, causing it to clog over and over? Idk wtf is going on. It worked perfectly for 3 weeks doing nothing but ABS, then all of a sudden I can't complete a single file.
Useful links:
🛟 Qidi Plus 4: 3dprintsos.com/qidi-plus4
🛟 Omron SSR: amzn.to/4hU2uMB
🛟 Heat Sink: amzn.to/48YAEdU
🛟 24V Fan: amzn.to/4fBNiSF
🛟 Thermal Fuse - AliExpress (95c): s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCsg1Mp
🛟 Thermal Fuse - Amazon (125c only): amzn.to/40VOtrt
🛟 Lever Connectors: amzn.to/4fRmgX8
🛟 JST Plug Kit: amzn.to/498KkTq
🛟 Ferrule Kit: amzn.to/3YZeinV
🛟 Printable Adaptor: www.printables.com/model/1078817-qidi-plus-4-ssr-and-fan-mount-for-tall-heatsink-v1
🛟 Plus 4 Wiki: github.com/qidi-community/Plus4-Wiki/blob/main/content/heater-ssr-upgrade/README.md
I, and many others on the Qidi Discord server have made this mod. It works well and completely solves the issue. Great job on creating excellent content that demonstrates on how to perform the fix. It looks like you linked to Spooknik's wiring diagram too. Good job.
You guys did the hard work, I just followed it and shared it. The wiring diagram from the wiki was the magic sauce.
When I initially saw this I couldn't believe they didn't use a reputable SSR, they're known to be failure points on 3D printers and have caused fires in the past. Panasonic and OMRON are good brands and good to oversize it amp-wise.
Good tutorial. I would highly recommend using thermo grease between the SSR and heatsink and between the thermo fuse and heatsink. This will significantly increase the heat transfer.
@@Waltkat agree! Would be ideal.
I think I agree with Qidi that the risk of fire is pretty low - the original board does have a fuse (small black component labeled T4A250V) and a metal oxide varistor (component designated RV1) to prevent current spikes in the event of a short circuit (like the coil overheating, melting off all the coating on the windings, and short circuiting). The SSR is the yellow block (labeled GJ-5-L and denoted as an S.S.R. on the label). The fact that they used common engineering practices for electrical safety doesn't make the fact that they still have a major design flaw any less significant.
The replacement SSR is probably overengineered for the application, but that doesn't mean much if it works. It should run a lot cooler.
@@markm9169 After seeing it hit 100c during a 15m heating session I just kind of lost trust. But I get what you’re saying.
@@3DPrintSOSNo doubt! The new board hit 100C? Yeah, that doesn’t sound like sound engineering!
@ Yep, I did a live stream on the replacement and the yellow part on the board (someone said it’s the actual SSR) got to 100c on my thermometer :/
@ Yeah, I was watching the live stream. It’s an interesting ( if not concerning) problem.
@@3DPrintSOS The area above 90 degrees should be thermistor (NTC), which is used in many places and is within the normal operating temperature range. Of course, players who know technology can upgrade their equipment by themselves to increase the power of the heater. I saw a modification that heated the PLUS4 chamber to 80 degrees. It is not recommended for general users to modify.
10A SSR of a brand name should be fine, I'd probably go up to a 15A for peace of mind, also some thermal paste between SSR and heatsink. Fan is probably overkill. Nice to see someone do this swap, thanks for sharing! Qidi, you REALLY shouldn't cheap out on this part, really bad bad bad choice.
Thanks for giving the mounting design a tryout and producing the video. My bias aside.... very good tutorial!
I was about to get this Printer a while back and saw you post about this issue,so I held off. Since this issue can be fixed now,think I will go ahead and get it. Its good that they are willing to ship another board,but as you mentioned these parts are much better.
I have the new board from QiDi and it looks fine and I don't think
there is an issue with it warranting the need to use a SSR module.
The new board is basically an SSR that is not encapsulated.
I leaned this way because 1. the original, despite them saying it was “fine", clearly failed big time and melted. (That hits differently when it’s In my home with my family) 2. the second one which is also “fine" was reading 100c within 20 minutes during my livestream.
I just lost all trust in that component and MUCH rather have this in my personal machine as I have experience with them and trust them. I understand why you’d disagree and that's ok. I still love this machine.
Also did you notice that the heatsink is actually hotter from the plastic separating the chamber than the SSR when you were measuring it? The backing plate is hotter than the SSR.
Right because that back wall gets to about 60c as well. haha great mod!
Thank you for all this information. Could you provide the actual amazon link or description of the jst plugs that you’re using for your add on wiring harnesses? Thank you in advance
Oh looks like I forgot to include that link. I bought this kit for JST XH connectors because it had a tool and dupont for other projects as well: amzn.to/498KkTq I used the included wires (from this kit) to make the fan splitter.
Thank you for bringing this to my attention.
Thanks to your great vids, I think I can take this on, but wanted to make sure I got those connectors correct. Thanks again👍
@@scottadikes1006 As much as we shouldnt have to fix this kind of stuff, I still love to tinker with these machines. :) You got this.
I would like to see the Plus 4 vs most any new printer
I have nothing but issues with ASA not sticking. Could you help share your settings or any suggestions?
I would wash the bed with hot water and dish soap. then I would apply a thin coat of glue stick. one thing that goes a long way is letting the chamber and bed heat soak. at least 10-15 minutes. I usually do this before slicing. that way by the time I slice, the machine is hot and ready.
Another great video as always. I have received a tracking number from QIDI for the replacement SSR board. They have also sent out a "new" wifi dongle for my machine on a separate ticket. I can't wait for the multi-material unit to be available. Something tells me that it will have been tested and ready when it finally arrives 😉.
I was also having issues with the Wi-Fi. Mine seems to have been taken care of by the latest version of firmware, 1.6.0
Thanks Fedor! I just have one question. How did you get that fan mount printed in PETG so quickly? Usually it takes at least a few days when you order printed parts and we all know how much you love PETG! 😂 Sorry, couldn't resist! Appreciate the helpful videos as always!
@@Gryfang451 hahaha. Must have been PCBWAY! 😂
Great video. Do you have a link to the thermal fuse?
Ah good call. Adding to the description now. Ali: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCsg1Mp Amazon only has 125: amzn.to/40VOtrt
Nice! This is the Omron I used.. but didnt use that print and fan setup, so think I'll redo that along with the heater case mod that directs the heat away from the bed when its at the bottom. This is a bit nicer
That fan is way over kill. Not needed.
@TC-dk6do technically, so is the heatsink. The point of this is to never worry about it again. It’s overbuilt, has multiple safety’s in place, yet inexpensive.
Ich will das heizbett mit einem ssr auf 230v umbauen. Da mir das originale zu langsam aufheizt. Hast du mal dein ssr ohne den Lüfter , nur mit dem Kühlkörpern versucht?
I have not in this application. But I have this SSR on my Voron machines and many people do as well. All without heatsinks or fans. So this is just a way to make it overkill and not to have to worry about it.
@ okay ,gut zu wissen , das Video ist super von dir super erklärt und gemacht
If your heatsink on an SSR is going to 95c or higher, things are REALLY REALLY wrong. Heatsink on an SSR should not be higher than 50c. If you look at the spicy-meatball project, that has really good safety protections on how to wire the chamber heater. Which is really terrible that Qidi screwed this up so badly. FYI those IR temperature readers can't read from bare aluminum, put a piece of blue tape on the heatsink, and read the temp from the tape. Heatsink/SSR should be grounded.
See, my problem is that I'd be dealing with electrical components, while totally blind. I'm an independent person but even I know it's not exactly harmless to do this. I'll probably just wait like a good year for Qidi to make printers that don't have the same board they had at launch so I don't have to worry about going through wiring to install a board.
But for those who can do this, more power to you. I just don't trust myself to not get killed or seriously injured trying this out.
Why didn't Qidi go this route, looks a lot more robust than what they did.
how do you change power to .7?
Check out 24:57 ;)
I have had it with my Qidi Max3 get about 5 prints out of it then the nightmare starts all over. I dont even want to power it on anymore. Think on black Friday im going to give in and buy a bambu. printers or a 2nd SV08 I own Prusa MK2, ender 3, CR-10S, CR-10S Pro x2, Qidi Max3, SV08. The software is very bugged on the Max3. it dont like to save Z changes get about 5 perfect prints then Z is off again. Think i have had to adjust the Z offset more times on this printer then i have on my CR-10S pro from the time i have owned it 2018 i think when i got the pro's ?
Should have put thermal paste between the SSR and heatsink
@@jamesdavies686 for sure. And between the thermal fuse as well.
Good Video!
It is the switching on and off that generates the heat. Adding an SSR to cut power in case of failure, is also a way to go. On top of the fuse. The safety SSR will not be having the same struggle, as it will not have to deal with an indecisive controller, telling it constantly yes and no till the end of time. I sort of feel the lack of innovation from the industry on this one. An age old Ender 3 bed generates safely 220W of heat, and has a stellar safety record. It also has a ton of surface area, so even a slight breeze will cool it. It can be done both silent and safe. To name one option. As a design, the heater on the plus 4 feels dumb and inelegant. The least impressive, is the Qidi response to their failure. Remains to be seen, as to if they actually can design and innovate, or if this stupidity is their way of doing things.
@@FrodeBergetonNilsen They had a few official statements that I posted on my community page. The admitted they made a mistake and offer an updated part and an extra year of warranty or a full refund. They also mentioned that they will now do more testing internally and externally before releasing products.
@@3DPrintSOS Sure. But the mistake was not "inferior internal testing". The design is stupid and adhoc, more like a mod. That is a leadership thing, and a test for them. A heated chamber is not just adding a heater, in a hap hazard manner, but a ton of issues follows with it. As in a completely different type of design, ground up.
This is like a caveman wanting to warm up his new home, so he makes a fire in the middle of. It sure heats things up. It is also very cost effective, as all the cave man needs, is some wood and something to light a fire.
He will also tell you, that this is perfectly safe, because he has been doing this in caves for years.
Just saying. Let's see if they remain cave men, or they adopt to living in a house.
If you're doing this to make it safer and you're willing to spend the money to it why not use genuine Wago?
@@enlamainyokohama I have used up all my Wagos but the ones I grabbed and linked are pretty high quality. They are totally comparable in quality.
Is anyone else having issues with, heat creep, causing it to clog over and over? Idk wtf is going on. It worked perfectly for 3 weeks doing nothing but ABS, then all of a sudden I can't complete a single file.
That’s not fun. I wonder if you have a bad fan on the hotend.