#AskGCNTech I have roller brakes (or drum brakes) on my hybrid bicycle. Is it possible to fit it to new wheels which are made for disc brake? Or is it easily convertable to disc brakes (probably not as there’s a need for special fastening points - right?) Good show!
#AskGCNTech Hello, Is there a chance for the GCN team to create a video on how to apply PPF to your bike I.e. with a step by step guide from prep work, where to purchase PPF and how to apply the PPF to your bike along with the removal of air bubbles etc..?
#AskGCNTech for a carbon frame, how old is too old? I have a used 2008 bike that experienced a pretty catastrophic failure. Steering tube inside the head tube snapped while I was going 25mph and I suffered a concussion along with other numerous injuries. Is it completely my fault for riding such an old bike?
I was 50kg above my old bike‘s wheight limit. The bike had no problem but the wheels had to be trued very often. I replaced them a custom built wheelset and since then I never had any problems. I still have this bike and it has around 50000km on it.
thanks for answering my question and thereby also "triggering" the community to share all their knowledge and expieriences. The video is only a few hours old and I can allready see lots of shared stories of other heavy riders
I started riding at around 270 lbs a couple of years ago and so far, I haven't worn anything out but me. ;-) (That's more from buying more than one bike though, I think.)
@@gcntech yes, I do. Seems like everyone agrees with Ollie and the main focus will be on the tires. That is also kinda off the best case answer for me, as wheels are kind of easy to switch. And buying a gravel bike for "can do it all" purposes comming with rather fat tires, but wanting to ride it on mostly streets and easy gravel for now, I would have to change the wheels/tires anyway to something faster. And then it is good to know the frame will most likely handle it :)
I'm quite heavy. I put the "ass" in massive. 122kg. and then my heavy commuter rucksack. But I was heavier when I first stared cycling. I got a "fat tyre" bike which apparently can hold riders up to about 136kg. I made sure to get a bike with a higher weight limit. But then I got a flat tyre that I couldn't afford ot fix and had to hire those Santander bikes for a week. I didn't realise the website states the terms and conditions that you mustn't carry more than 115kg. I never had any problems and it has thinner wheels than my own bike. I think it does have to do with the type of bike and the material the frame is made from. I won't ride a folding bike though. They definitely can't carry as much.
My bike's limit is 110kg and i was 143kg when i bought it on 2008, its an entry-level road bike. i've never been lighter than 118kg since then and the bike is still perfectly fine! The only issues I've had during those years that may be caused of my weight was 3-4 broken spokes on the rear wheel and i have to replace braking pads more frequently than others 😉 Of course im talking about an all aluminum frame and 32 steel spokes on the wheels, anything less than that i simply wouldn't trust it with me on it.
Yeah, I weighed about the same when I started cycling. I got myself a fat tyre bike, but I've been on lighter bikes as well with no problems. I wouldn't torture a folding bike by sitting on it though.
The issue with the weightlimit in my experience lies more with components than the frame. I usually need a new chain after a longer bikepacking trip (around 130kg with full setup) , and after the last one also a new casette, because it would slip on the smallest sprocket when putting some power down. Never had any issues with brakes,wheels, etc.
I cracked a carbon rim, not sure how exactly, but my endurance bike was also my work bike so I had front and back racks fully loaded doing deliveries, and I'm not so lightweight either. I weighed the wheels some time and they weigh 1250g so why I thought it was ok to beat them about like that is beyond me... Big regret, wish i had just swallowed the cost and went all out on a "race day" wheelset and a beater set.
Chain should not have an issue with weight, but brakes obviously wear a bit more, especially downhill. Most common failure is that the cables would tear apart. Wheels and the rack are usually the weak point, they bent easily when the bike is heavy. Bike industry likes to cheap out on components, saving material to save money, sacrificing durability in the process.
#AskGCNTech Thanks for your answer Ollie. Had no idea post-mount to flat-mount adapters were a thing. Delighted there's a relatively cheap solution. Looking forward to being able to actually stop reliably.
I'm 110kg, I spent several years commuting on Campagnolo Khamsin and then Zonda on rougher roads and I tend to hit speed bumps at higher speeds. Solid wheels, just need to true them up a bit more than a lighter rider but great wheels.
I'm 20kg over the weight limit and then I had 60 liters of food stuffs on top. The bicycle was perfectly fine but only after the ride I started wondering about weight limits.
1:30 instead of rubbing the sandpaper (60 grit cloth backed is my pref) on the pads, lay the sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the pads flat on that. Keeps the shape of the pads better. I swap my fast CF rim brake wheels with my alloy everyday wheels, and SwissStop Yellow King pads are the kindest to CF rims that still work on them and Alu rims. A light in situ rub with the same paper during wheels swaps gets rid of any minor contaminants. BTW, carbon rim brake rims in the rain should be avoided if at all possible.
obviously, there's a weight limit to any design, but it better be pretty high if you expect the hardware to last. The quoted weight limits are insanely low. I have 2 Argon18s from 2011 or so (both with SRAM Force), an E112 tri bike and a Gallium Pro road bike. When I was doing triathlon, I weighed a lot more than I do now and I still weigh a lot. I did at least 1500 miles on the E112 when I weighed 270+ and that included a lot of climbing. I did always have 32 hole triple cross wheels... heavier, but necessary in my opinion. I also rode a Cervelo P2 before I moved to the Argon18, it worked fine even under the weight, again with the 32 spoke wheels. Admittedly, those are all really old bikes at this point, but I stand by the assertion that they had BETTER build for more than 250 pounds MAXIMUM load.
For Ryan's question, if possible see if your bike can be fitted with a larger cassette on the back and do some high cadence drills on the flat. GCN has a few good videos on. high cadence drills and I've found adding them has helped my climbing. Last but definitely not least is body position, get that weight forward on the climb or you feel like you'll fall backwards but too far forward isn't good either. Also, there are some good videos on that as well
Regarding the GRX and post mount issue, I had the same issue when I built my 3T Exploro with Shimano Ultegra 8000 a few years ago. I solved it by buying a set of Shimano XTR calipers. You will need Shimano XTR brake hoses and since they come with connecting bits for MTB brake handles, so you'll need to get Ultegra connecting bits. Also you can probably forget getting any of the bits pre-bled and will have to bleed a completely dry system, but in the end it will be fine. Oh, and by now I have upgraded the calipers to Hope four piston calipers. I can really recommend them. Compared to Shimano they re a nightmare to set up, but once you're done you'll have stopping power that is nothing short of awesome!
For Ryan's request regarding climbing, I found having my seat further forward and higher makes my climbing way more efficient. You're essentially positionally more weight on top of the pedal stroke when you're on a steep grade.
To me I also set my saddle up almost all the way forward, with 1cm left before going all the way. But I move closer to the rear end of my fizik arione (partly because it's very steep) but I have an easier time grinding a big gear when I'm all the way back on the saddle. I normally set my saddle on the lower end of my saddle height but that's because I almost always spin over 100rpm and I'm on what people have started calling the "froomey set up". I guess this will leave the person asking two options to try lol.
I am currently at above 120kg and have been riding a Cannondale Topstone 1 with an aluminium frame for the past 3 years. The only issue I had with the bike was a broken free wheel, the bike technician said the bike frame and carbon fork can handle the weight but other components like the freewheel or rims might break earlier than normal
Over these 6 years I weight between 150-100kg and ridden several bike frames. (Currently on Pinarello F12 GCN Color, all rim brake) Frame: Just check weight limit from manufacture. There are some do not have weight limit. Frame is usually ok under heavy load, but components are likely not. (often seatpost or saddle clamp. Prefer 2bolt clamp over 1bolt) Please just avoid Specialized (So far, most of their products got broken under load). Wheel: I am inclined to use hand-built wheels with higher spoke count. Currently on ENVEs (20-24 spokes Sapim CX-Ray or CX-Sprint seem enough) with all Chris King R45 hubs.
Being 187cm and solid 125kg. Riding a Trek Domane SL5 (Carbon) with Dt swiss pr1400 32mm rimbrake wheels for the last 3 years (16k km) without an issue. I replace the chain and cassette every year and brake pads when needed.
if you are tii heavy i suggest to use alloy steerer, seat post and wheels. the main issue are the sudden impacts, caused by potholes for example. carbon can snap in such situations where aluminum may bend, it can be the differrence between a new part or your face on the deck.
Had a friend who weighed about 260 who bought a new road bike from a reputable shop. He took it by another friend’s house to show it off after picking it up, where 2nd friend expressed concerns about the weight rating on the wheels, which were fairly light machine built no name/OE spec wheels with something like a 20/24 spoke count. Sure enough, first ride out, within 30 minutes spokes started popping.
I weighed a lot more than what my cheapo aluminum bike rated for (at least more then 30 kg over). I did have a rear wheel fail but it was because while slowing down my derailleur got pulled all the way forward, got in the way of my spokes, ripping the spokes out from the aluminium rim (i'm so impressed that the spokes and spoke nipples didn't fail first) and despite that i was able to safely stop the bike after a couple of revolutions of the wheel. I don't ride that bike anymore but I got at least 6500 km out of it before that wheel failure (though I did have a spoke snap).
I'm 330 (150kg), been riding a Cannondale Caddx 105se for 5 years now, no problem what's so ever. I have custom wheel built with Conti 30mm GrandPrix 4 Seasons tires
I'm 110kg and I have to check all components for weight limits. I do go through a lot of chains and have snapped a few but seem to be ok with KMC chains . I've also been using disc brakes as I need the extra stopping power to stop when at speed. Also hunt do some wheels for heavier riders. Definitely do not buy any unrated carbon bits I've had a few snap and learnt that lesson quickly. My bike does weigh a bit more as it's stronger but I know that when I go into a sprint the bike won't just disintegrate underneath me .
@Neil Partridge I'm about 5'11 and quite muscular. Yeah every Shimano chain snapped within a week and had a few snapped spokes. Found hunt and KMC to be better for me.
Chains snapping is normal, it has little to do with your weight. Especially when the gearing is not really optimized for low speeds, you put a lot of torque on the chain - which is often undersized (to cut costs) and then ruptures with a bit of wear and tear.
I'm a heavier rider too, and been putting off buying a carbon bike because of those weight limits. If you're saying the wheels are more of a concern than the frame, I might finally get one then. On my current bike I had to replace the wheels they came with pretty soon because they needed frequent trueing and I was also snapping spokes like crazy, but the DT Swiss ones I replaced them with have been perfect, so I'm not really worried about wheels.
If you have a post mount frame and fork just use post mount calipers, if you're upgrading to grx just use a shimano post mount caliper. Or do an even better upgrade and use hope calipers :)
ollie, a dremel tool would be perfect for sanding down a brake pad e, stand up on descents if you wanna airbrake. DH longboarders do this alll the time. ee, the gentelman should check the ASTM rating for the frame. different frames have different rating from like 1-5 i beleive.
You can ride any bike regardless of the manufacturers recommended weight limit. It’s just that they won’t be responsible for any damages or injuries that may occur. Heavier the weight & the higher the speed equals more force which translate to more stress that a certain material has to deal with. Some carbon bikes were not meant to withstand the heavier weight.
Definitely look at getting some wheels custom-built if you are a heavier rider (or even if not, I'm only 82kg!). It's actually a fairly economic option - I do it to show my LBS some love and because I can't always get what I want off-the-peg. If you can source some NOS hubs off eBay or similar you could get a half-decent pair of wheels for £200 - go to town on trick bits and you might spend £500. You might struggle to get higher spoke counts on carbon rims but there's nothing wrong with alloy really.
I crossed Austraila, New Zealand and dd the Norwegian highlands, using a low lying Yak expedition trailer behind my mountain bike. Spreading the total weight among 3 wheels made me going MUCH faster and easier than when carrying the same on two wheels. My advice: USE a Yak expedition trailer😊😊😊😊👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
i don't know what sort of post-mount brakes he's running - but I've run hydro flat mount before getting my current frame which is from 2018 - back then post mount was more common, that's not a problem tho as I can get Ultegra hydro post mount. and let me tell you they are MUCH better than flat mount. wow.
I steer clear of bikes and components with measly system limits. At one point a couple of years ago I was eyeing a Focus Paralane and a Ghost Road Rage -series bikes as complements to My beloved, beautiful Salsa WarBird 2019. The moment I learned of their highly off-putting weight limit (of 110kg and 120kg respectively), I instantly shifted My focus to better bikes. A bit of a shame, because both the Ghost and the Focus are otherwise very appealing bikes. Same goes for wheels: while I love LightWeight and Zipp wheels as much as anyone, My favourite wheels are the Spinergy (i.e., FCC 47 Disc) and Scope. Neither manufacturer has a stated max weight limit (Scope specifically mentions the lack of a system weight limit for their disc wheels). While I find both Spinergy and Scope designs as beautiful as the best of Zipp and Enve (and probably a tad below the LightWeight), the absence of a weight limit on these wheels (plus, the purported extra comfort of PBO-spoked Spinergy wheels) means that these wheels are better for a normal rider than any of the latter. Plus, they're somewhat more reasonably priced as well, which, too, facilitates the likelihood of acquisition. Bontrager Aeolus XXX are also very appealing, but these are somewhat more expensive - and I do not see how their greater price is warranted. Idem, the Beast wheels. Then, there are the Pacenti and the somewhat more affordable Reynolds - also suitable for heavier riders, going by the stats. But many Reynolds wheels happen to exhibit lateral hub play. Plus, they appear a little visually bland, compared to both the Spinergy and Scope deep-section wheels. …anyway, for Me (weighing up to ca. 130kg when out of shape and 84 in shape, and using bikes for chores and long-distance touring, among other things, but being very keen both on speed and beauty and hating the guts of hideous, heavy, crude traditional upright "touring" and ugly city bikes) - a versatile gravel bike with all the necessary mounts and properly high weight limit (or - better yet - none at all) - is the way to go.
Brilliant questioned followed by Brilliant answers. I'm keen to know how some of the views get on with these suggestions, especially the PPF. I am awaiting my Orbea Orca which is due to be delivered on the 21st July. Is there a chance of another video to display step by step how to apply the PPF to support the GCN fans?
Ronny: Ride Alpe D’Huez, you have much greater protection from the wind and you can stop on the switchbacks on the way down to let your brakes cool and take pictures.
my spokes were braking on the wheels that came on the bike.i had wheels made with more spokes and was budget priced and that solved the problem.i am 6.5 and 115 kgs :)
Carbon specific pads actually brake better than alloy ones, when using alloy rims. The modulation seems a bit better. I think it's because they are softer, however they do wear more quickly doing this.
#AskGCNTech Two (maybe two and a half)! random aero questions.... 1) is the point with a tailwind where you are better off being more upright in the saddle and using your body like a sail to be pushed along. 2) Beards - given the debate over hairy / shaved legs how does face stubble / beards impact aerodynamics? Also is would there any benefit to a longer beard, thinking it could smooth out the gap between your chin and chest.
1) is easily answered by physics. It is all about your speed relative to the speed of the wind from the back. So do "your speed minus backwind speed = your air speed" and act according to your air speed. If it is negativ, e.g. you go 40k/h in a 60k/h backwind ( 40-60 = -20), go sail. If it is close to 0, drive how you get most power/comfortable.
as a fatboi rider, I can confirm you absolutely can ride the bike if you are over the limit, just be weary of smashing through single tracks or drops etc :)
#AskGCNTech I see riders at the Tour de France sometimes warm up or cool down with wheel on trainers. Does this not burn and damage the tyre ? I would like to know if amateurs could do the same without ruining their tyres ?
It does I used a normal tyre once when it was quite worn and you would get a nasty smell of rubber and you get little chunks of rubber come off and eventually a flat spot all round your tyre. You can get special tyres for on wheel trainers which do work well. For pros wouldn't matter as much to warm down as probably using a new tyre the next day anyway.
Core exercises will help you develop more strength for cycling, especially seated on climbs, and work on pulling up more than pushing down on the pedals while climbing. you have more strength in your thighs and you should find this is easier.
#AskGCNTech In the recent Sydney floods, my Kickr snap went under water. If my insurance is approved do I go for another Kickr snap, which I use with my older bike which is only 7speed. Or go for a more modern Kickr direct drive. No idea on model. My good bike is a Ribble and 11sp so should fit. Most of the time I only ride indoors when it rains, so its a hard decision as to which way I go. Thanks.
#AskGCNTech I know that tubeless shows lower drag in tests, but I can't help wondering if that's because tests are done at a steady speed and fixed direction. In real world use, wouldn't the slushing around of sealant caused by slight variations in speed and direction as you ride cause higher drag? Or is that movement so miniscule as to make no real difference?
#askgcntech i recently scratched my frame (very minor) after wiping out on a corner (next to a field that have been over zealously fertilized with cow byproducts). Would standard model/ airfix paint be fine to cover over these small scratches (aluminum frame and carbon forks)
#AskGCNTech Hi GCN team. I have recently bought a brand new GTR Sport road bike, but I have discovered that the chainring was bent, and sent it to the store for repair, but they just repositioned the front mech so that it doesn't rub against it. my question is: is it normal for a chainring to be slightly bent (1-2mm off true)? and if not, is it safe to ride it like that? thank you in advance.
That's not a small amount. With the compensation they did, the cage would be a little too far away from the chainring at all other points except for the bent point. See if you can find a replacement.
Hi there, Ollie. I have looked all over the web for a rider weight limit for the Bianchi Specialissima, but have had zero success. Would you or anyone at GCN know this information? Many thanks for any help you can render. Cheers!
#AskGCNTech. Hi there. Love the show! I was riding down a smallish hill on my bike today (Bianchi Infinito CV with stock Fulcrum wheels) and took my hands off momentarily to stretch my back and my bike started to have a huge speed shimmy. The headset looked like it was moving +/- ~3-5cm from the middle position. I was only doing about 35 - 40 kph at the time. The shimmy stopped as soon as I grabbed the bars but kind of startled me when it happened. I’ve ridden much faster both on flats and down bigger hills (topped out @ ~ 75 kph on one hill) and I’ve never had anything like that happen before. Any ideas on what would cause such a severe shimmy? Thanks!
Something similar happened to me, though it appeared at even lower speed of ~20/25 kph. It was because my back wheel was slightly bent. Might be somenthing to check.
#askgcntech Hey Ollie and Alex (and Manon, maybe?!)! I’ve just upgraded my bike to the new 12s Ultegra, and I have opted for a semi-compact 52/36 chain set. I wanted to run use 2 sets of wheels - one deeper set for the flats, with a 11-30 cassette; and a shallower set for climbing. However I wanted to give myself a little extra gearing when climbing, so thought a 11-34 cassette would be best. I know the 12s has only 1 mech cage length, but would the chain be long enough to accommodate switching out the 30 for the the 34, or do I need to replace this? Can 1 chain run on both cassette options? Thanks!
#AskGCNTech I se ridées au the Tour de France sometimes warm up or cool down with wheel on trainers. Does this not burn and damage the tyre ? I would like to know if amateurs could do the same without ruining their tyres ?
Regardless of rim depth, thicker spokes and a different lacing pattern will suit better. This is where wheelbuilding studios come in as they can spec almost any wheelset for almost any rider as they take a rider's weight, riding style and desires into account.
#askGCNtech- Hello tech team! I want to buy a Tacx Neo 2T trainer for next winter. All of my road bikes have disc brakes. All reviews I have read or seen on the Neo 2T say that the rear caliper will be in contact with the side of the trainer. So my question is: what do the pro teams that use the Neo 2T do as a solution to this issue? They have to mount and remove multiple bikes from those trainers every day so they must have a solution. Could you get an answer from any if the team mechanics about this issue?
#askGCNtech I recently got an old Burley tandem, and it has old hydraulic magura rim brakes. Would a modern hydraulic brake lever work with these? Thanks
#askgcntech - hey you awesome people. You mentioned double wrapping bar tape a few weeks back and also did an excellent video last week on bar wrapping. So….. I get the concept but what do you do about the double wrap around the bar plugs - there is only room inside the bar end for one layer of tape so what do you do to overcome this? Thanks all - love you! 😂
Hi, I am about to buy a used carbon bike. It has a a big scratch on the down tube. I am a bit worried the carbon might be impacted. However there is no sign of the carbon being broken. Is there any way to know if the structure of the frame has been impacted or is it’s just a scratch in the paint.
Tap it with a coin! Tap it first gently on an area that is not damaged, then go over the scratch. If the area with the scratch suddenly changes dramatically in tone or sounds much much quieter, it is likely compromised.
I weigh 218kg I was commuting 7 miles a day on a cube agree gtc everything was fine until I snapped a spoke but being quite a confident home mechanic I ordered the bits and repaired the wheels I rode my mountain bike in the meantime, got back on my carbon fibre dream bike and all was good for about 3 days then another spoke snapped so I replaced the wheels from campagnolo to shimano r1 I think all good for a month or two and as sure as anything snapped a spoke at which point I banned myself from riding the carbon bike until I lose some weight
The difference is Jon was a bike mechanic and had knowledge of the industry. In “modern” GCN, there are just home mechanics (wanna be). Answers to 1st, 2nd and 3rd questions are totally amateur wrapped in fancy words/enthusiasm (and pretty face)
#askgcntech how many yellow, green, etc jerseys do they make for the Tour given the number of potential riders who might end up wearing one over the 3 weeks?
#AskGCNTech How long do aluminum bike frames last? My bike was made in 2005 and I heard that they could crack suddenly during a ride after 5-10 years. What are the warning signs?
I've cracked a few alloy frames and they all start to creak before hand. Always find your creaks in your bike because it could be an indication of something about fail.
#AskGCNTech Hi guys. A lot of advice tells me to run low tyre pressures (say 5 bar) yet my Mavic Yksion UST say not to go below (say) 6 bar printed on the sidewall. This occurs on other tyres i have too (different brands). Will they fall off if I run them below the stated min pressure? Is this the manufacturer being ultra cautious? (note this is subtly different to the question asked a couple of weeks ago by another viewer; I am not using inserts and this is a 25 mm road tyre issue). Cheers!
its an thing or good question im an big guy 2 i waigt 110 kg and think like this it would wear lots faster so keep an eye on the wear off parts but rims or frames are stronger than is adverised yes an ligter person wil go faster but ride like you stole it it doesnt matter i nevver split an bike in 2 so dont worry iff your wight is below 130 kg
#AskGCNTech Hi guys, I have an aluminium Canyon Endurance with rim brakes as my first road bike. After 2 years, I am thinking about upgrading my OEM wheels for some carbon ones. During last week's tech show, Hank and Ollie were reading some of the comments about biggest regret purchases and agreed with one comment about carbon rim wheels where Ollie described them as "Pants" for not stopping in the wet and the sound of money rubbing away, so now I am having second thoughts about the upgrade. I am moving to Denmark soon where if never ever rains (see TDF Stage 1 TT), but would like the aero gains of some 45mm deep wheels for the relatively flat country. So would you advise upgrading to carbon wheels anyway or put that money towards upgrading to a disk brake bike in the future? Cheers, Dan
Check out HED wheels. There's a 45 mm deep version that's basically an aluminium rim with a carbon fairing. Although heavier than a full carbon rim, but you maintain braking performance. HED believes in aluminium braking superiority. When you swap between your aluminium wheels, no brake pad swap needed.
I did a century right being 40kg over my bike weight limit and have been riding the bike for nearly 2 years. If there is something wrong with the bike I can see or feel it
#AskGCNTech Hey gang, I'm wondering if you can save a rusted chain. I was hit by a hailstorm at the end of my ride and straight to the shower after i got home, completely ignoring my drenched bike. The dry lube on the chain got washed away during the storm and the chain started to rust. Can i keep using the chain bacause it still relatively new bike
You can lube it and see. If there is rust in the rollers get a new chain. If it's mainly cosmetic, and any squeak goes away after a good lube, you're good to go.
#askgcntech On the topic of bigger riders, would an aero bike’s benefits be wasted on someone who just needs to lose weight? Can loose fitting clothing negate those same aero benefits?
@@iddra1868 Oh sorry I think my question wasn't clear. It wasn't that the only goal or even primary goal was to lose weight. It was more along the lines of "If you have fat you can lose is it pointless to buy an aero bike?"
@@Millicente Logically I would say it's not pointless. You will have loses from loose clothing, larger surface area etc. but the aero bike will add some gains because of its design (aero handlebars, tubes, wheels, integrated cables). These are gains which a "normal" bike doesn't give you.
@@Millicente I don't know if and how aeroness will affect your feelings for your bike, but chances are that if you love your bike you will ride it more often.
#askgcntech I`m thinking about getting an oval chainring for my bike (105 r7000). But i don`t want to change the big ring as i really like the look of r7000 set. Is it a viable option to change a small ring and will it affect my shifting?
Absolute black do a 34t for your chainset - their website has a really helpful chainset checker on the front page that narrows down the options. I’ve not used them personally but have heard good things
#ASKGCNTECH hi gang,iam currently running latex tubes with rim brakes on a 9kg bike with rider weight of 75kg and iam a little concerned about heat buildup affecting the latex tubes while depending. I live in a quiet hilly area (north Yorkshire) lots of ups followed by fast descents How likely am I to have problems ie blowouts Many thanks Mike
#AskGCNTech Hi guys, I realy like the show. I am studying in Israel where the streets arent smooth and I also want to ride a little bit in the terain. Should I get a Gravel bike, a Cyclo cross bike or some kind of a special race bike. Thank you
Not a cyclocross bike unless you fancy an aggressive position over longer distances and not being able to mount much to your bike. Choose something that suits 90% of your riding and you'll love it no doubt.
#ASKGCNTech Hi Manon & guys, do you think that Pogacar pulls his hair after putting his helmet to have the same bunch of hairs on the same spot every single time ?
You really shouldn’t put more weight on a bike than it’s rated for period! There are custom bikes that are built for more weight. Many years ago Cannondale built a custom bike for Shaquille O’Neal. Commotion, a small builder in Oregon makes a touring bike called the Americano which is built with tandem tubes and wheels. It’s a bit heavy but it will easily handle 120 kg or more. It’s a very stout bike that’s made for heavy touring.
Problem is that bikes are made cheaply and thus put a usual rider with some luggage already over the limit. More expensive bikes can handle larger payloads, but not your average bike shop ride.
I recently descended a steep (30% in some sections) road with a very tight anus and absolutely had to drag the brakes! I know that’s not preferable but I was accelerating to nearly 70kph in a matter of seconds, which while exciting, is a little sketchy on these winding roads! Annoying as it was, I had no choice but to give those poor cheap carbon rims and hopelessly flexible rim brakes some relief!
Please do not sand your brake pads with sandpaper. The fine grit will stick onte the pads and immediately grind down your braketrack. Only use an uncontaminated (no metal) file or something like a fresh dremel tool (only ones with metal teeth)
#askgcntech Since carbon rim-brake wheels pose a sacrifice in braking performance in the wet, I'm curious: Is the aerodynamic benefit of deep section wheels reduced by the rain, compared to the benefit gained in dry conditions? (This could be a very miserable idea for a video...) For my rim brake race bike, I'll typically race rainy days on my shallow depth training wheels for sake of the aluminum brake track. But I've always wondered if I'm losing a similar number of watts as I would on a dry day, or if it's just a wash. (pun intended) (Most of my races are flat, so weight is not a significant factor.)
Why is the rim wearing like that to begin with.make the rim a little harder and stop the rim coming off onto my break pads.nowdays rims don't last a fraction of the time they used to last. Because there making the rims to soft....
#AskGCNTech Could we please have Ollie remove the "Save the rim breaks" sticker from his laptop as you all have proved multiple times the superiority of disk brakes'.
Let us know your tech queries using #AskGCNTech 👇
#AskGCNTech I have roller brakes (or drum brakes) on my hybrid bicycle. Is it possible to fit it to new wheels which are made for disc brake? Or is it easily convertable to disc brakes (probably not as there’s a need for special fastening points - right?)
Good show!
#AskGCNTech Am I less likely get hit by lightning from a carbon than a steel frame or it's the same and is it dangerous to ride during a storm
#AskGCNTech Hello, Is there a chance for the GCN team to create a video on how to apply PPF to your bike I.e. with a step by step guide from prep work, where to purchase PPF and how to apply the PPF to your bike along with the removal of air bubbles etc..?
#AskGCNTech for a carbon frame, how old is too old? I have a used 2008 bike that experienced a pretty catastrophic failure. Steering tube inside the head tube snapped while I was going 25mph and I suffered a concussion along with other numerous injuries. Is it completely my fault for riding such an old bike?
There is a wheelset that I was interested in. The weight limit is 100kg. I am between 92-95 would they still be safe to use
I was 50kg above my old bike‘s wheight limit. The bike had no problem but the wheels had to be trued very often. I replaced them a custom built wheelset and since then I never had any problems. I still have this bike and it has around 50000km on it.
I'm a big guy, 300 lbs and I ride a salsa Fargo and Vaya. Great fun and exercise. I agree on wheels, 36 spoke count or more is a must.
thanks for answering my question and thereby also "triggering" the community to share all their knowledge and expieriences. The video is only a few hours old and I can allready see lots of shared stories of other heavy riders
I started riding at around 270 lbs a couple of years ago and so far, I haven't worn anything out but me. ;-) (That's more from buying more than one bike though, I think.)
Hope you find their collective advice helpful!
@@gcntech yes, I do. Seems like everyone agrees with Ollie and the main focus will be on the tires. That is also kinda off the best case answer for me, as wheels are kind of easy to switch. And buying a gravel bike for "can do it all" purposes comming with rather fat tires, but wanting to ride it on mostly streets and easy gravel for now, I would have to change the wheels/tires anyway to something faster. And then it is good to know the frame will most likely handle it :)
I'm quite heavy. I put the "ass" in massive. 122kg. and then my heavy commuter rucksack. But I was heavier when I first stared cycling. I got a "fat tyre" bike which apparently can hold riders up to about 136kg. I made sure to get a bike with a higher weight limit. But then I got a flat tyre that I couldn't afford ot fix and had to hire those Santander bikes for a week. I didn't realise the website states the terms and conditions that you mustn't carry more than 115kg. I never had any problems and it has thinner wheels than my own bike. I think it does have to do with the type of bike and the material the frame is made from. I won't ride a folding bike though. They definitely can't carry as much.
My bike's limit is 110kg and i was 143kg when i bought it on 2008, its an entry-level road bike.
i've never been lighter than 118kg since then and the bike is still perfectly fine!
The only issues I've had during those years that may be caused of my weight was 3-4 broken spokes on the rear wheel and i have to replace braking pads more frequently than others 😉
Of course im talking about an all aluminum frame and 32 steel spokes on the wheels, anything less than that i simply wouldn't trust it with me on it.
Thanks for this! I'm currently around the same weight as you, and this really gives me the confidence to plan for my dream bike.
Yeah, I weighed about the same when I started cycling. I got myself a fat tyre bike, but I've been on lighter bikes as well with no problems. I wouldn't torture a folding bike by sitting on it though.
My gravel bike limit is 110kg im 117in morning 119at after noon i am 8kg more than the limit can i ride it?
The issue with the weightlimit in my experience lies more with components than the frame. I usually need a new chain after a longer bikepacking trip (around 130kg with full setup) , and after the last one also a new casette, because it would slip on the smallest sprocket when putting some power down. Never had any issues with brakes,wheels, etc.
I cracked a carbon rim, not sure how exactly, but my endurance bike was also my work bike so I had front and back racks fully loaded doing deliveries, and I'm not so lightweight either. I weighed the wheels some time and they weigh 1250g so why I thought it was ok to beat them about like that is beyond me... Big regret, wish i had just swallowed the cost and went all out on a "race day" wheelset and a beater set.
Also getting 160mm discs may help. And you can get handspoked gravel/cyclocross wheels for decent prices, catered to heavier riders
Chain should not have an issue with weight, but brakes obviously wear a bit more, especially downhill.
Most common failure is that the cables would tear apart.
Wheels and the rack are usually the weak point, they bent easily when the bike is heavy.
Bike industry likes to cheap out on components, saving material to save money, sacrificing durability in the process.
#AskGCNTech Thanks for your answer Ollie. Had no idea post-mount to flat-mount adapters were a thing. Delighted there's a relatively cheap solution. Looking forward to being able to actually stop reliably.
I'm 110kg, I spent several years commuting on Campagnolo Khamsin and then Zonda on rougher roads and I tend to hit speed bumps at higher speeds. Solid wheels, just need to true them up a bit more than a lighter rider but great wheels.
I'm 20kg over the weight limit and then I had 60 liters of food stuffs on top. The bicycle was perfectly fine but only after the ride I started wondering about weight limits.
1:30 instead of rubbing the sandpaper (60 grit cloth backed is my pref) on the pads, lay the sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the pads flat on that. Keeps the shape of the pads better. I swap my fast CF rim brake wheels with my alloy everyday wheels, and SwissStop Yellow King pads are the kindest to CF rims that still work on them and Alu rims. A light in situ rub with the same paper during wheels swaps gets rid of any minor contaminants. BTW, carbon rim brake rims in the rain should be avoided if at all possible.
obviously, there's a weight limit to any design, but it better be pretty high if you expect the hardware to last. The quoted weight limits are insanely low. I have 2 Argon18s from 2011 or so (both with SRAM Force), an E112 tri bike and a Gallium Pro road bike. When I was doing triathlon, I weighed a lot more than I do now and I still weigh a lot. I did at least 1500 miles on the E112 when I weighed 270+ and that included a lot of climbing. I did always have 32 hole triple cross wheels... heavier, but necessary in my opinion. I also rode a Cervelo P2 before I moved to the Argon18, it worked fine even under the weight, again with the 32 spoke wheels. Admittedly, those are all really old bikes at this point, but I stand by the assertion that they had BETTER build for more than 250 pounds MAXIMUM load.
For Ryan's question, if possible see if your bike can be fitted with a larger cassette on the back and do some high cadence drills on the flat. GCN has a few good videos on. high cadence drills and I've found adding them has helped my climbing. Last but definitely not least is body position, get that weight forward on the climb or you feel like you'll fall backwards but too far forward isn't good either. Also, there are some good videos on that as well
Regarding the GRX and post mount issue, I had the same issue when I built my 3T Exploro with Shimano Ultegra 8000 a few years ago. I solved it by buying a set of Shimano XTR calipers. You will need Shimano XTR brake hoses and since they come with connecting bits for MTB brake handles, so you'll need to get Ultegra connecting bits. Also you can probably forget getting any of the bits pre-bled and will have to bleed a completely dry system, but in the end it will be fine.
Oh, and by now I have upgraded the calipers to Hope four piston calipers. I can really recommend them. Compared to Shimano they re a nightmare to set up, but once you're done you'll have stopping power that is nothing short of awesome!
For Ryan's request regarding climbing, I found having my seat further forward and higher makes my climbing way more efficient. You're essentially positionally more weight on top of the pedal stroke when you're on a steep grade.
To me I also set my saddle up almost all the way forward, with 1cm left before going all the way. But I move closer to the rear end of my fizik arione (partly because it's very steep) but I have an easier time grinding a big gear when I'm all the way back on the saddle. I normally set my saddle on the lower end of my saddle height but that's because I almost always spin over 100rpm and I'm on what people have started calling the "froomey set up". I guess this will leave the person asking two options to try lol.
A slight angle to the saddle can also help!
@@gcntech Yep! I right with nose down 2 to 3 degrees.
I am currently at above 120kg and have been riding a Cannondale Topstone 1 with an aluminium frame for the past 3 years. The only issue I had with the bike was a broken free wheel, the bike technician said the bike frame and carbon fork can handle the weight but other components like the freewheel or rims might break earlier than normal
Over these 6 years I weight between 150-100kg and ridden several bike frames. (Currently on Pinarello F12 GCN Color, all rim brake)
Frame:
Just check weight limit from manufacture. There are some do not have weight limit.
Frame is usually ok under heavy load, but components are likely not. (often seatpost or saddle clamp. Prefer 2bolt clamp over 1bolt)
Please just avoid Specialized (So far, most of their products got broken under load).
Wheel:
I am inclined to use hand-built wheels with higher spoke count. Currently on ENVEs (20-24 spokes Sapim CX-Ray or CX-Sprint seem enough) with all Chris King R45 hubs.
Great tips! Thank you
Being 187cm and solid 125kg. Riding a Trek Domane SL5 (Carbon) with Dt swiss pr1400 32mm rimbrake wheels for the last 3 years (16k km) without an issue. I replace the chain and cassette every year and brake pads when needed.
Nothing quite like having a new GCN video dropping just in time for my post ride meal 🍻
Perfect timing!
if you are tii heavy i suggest to use alloy steerer, seat post and wheels. the main issue are the sudden impacts, caused by potholes for example. carbon can snap in such situations where aluminum may bend, it can be the differrence between a new part or your face on the deck.
Had a friend who weighed about 260 who bought a new road bike from a reputable shop. He took it by another friend’s house to show it off after picking it up, where 2nd friend expressed concerns about the weight rating on the wheels, which were fairly light machine built no name/OE spec wheels with something like a 20/24 spoke count. Sure enough, first ride out, within 30 minutes spokes started popping.
I weighed a lot more than what my cheapo aluminum bike rated for (at least more then 30 kg over).
I did have a rear wheel fail but it was because while slowing down my derailleur got pulled all the way forward, got in the way of my spokes, ripping the spokes out from the aluminium rim (i'm so impressed that the spokes and spoke nipples didn't fail first) and despite that i was able to safely stop the bike after a couple of revolutions of the wheel.
I don't ride that bike anymore but I got at least 6500 km out of it before that wheel failure (though I did have a spoke snap).
I'm 330 (150kg), been riding a Cannondale Caddx 105se for 5 years now, no problem what's so ever. I have custom wheel built with Conti 30mm GrandPrix 4 Seasons tires
I'm 110kg and I have to check all components for weight limits. I do go through a lot of chains and have snapped a few but seem to be ok with KMC chains . I've also been using disc brakes as I need the extra stopping power to stop when at speed. Also hunt do some wheels for heavier riders. Definitely do not buy any unrated carbon bits I've had a few snap and learnt that lesson quickly. My bike does weigh a bit more as it's stronger but I know that when I go into a sprint the bike won't just disintegrate underneath me .
Same here. Worth adding to Hunt that Parcours did some Ronde wheels for me with extra spokes (thank you Dov!) and they've been excellent.
@Neil Partridge I'm about 5'11 and quite muscular. Yeah every Shimano chain snapped within a week and had a few snapped spokes. Found hunt and KMC to be better for me.
Chains snapping is normal, it has little to do with your weight.
Especially when the gearing is not really optimized for low speeds, you put a lot of torque on the chain - which is often undersized (to cut costs) and then ruptures with a bit of wear and tear.
I'm a heavier rider too, and been putting off buying a carbon bike because of those weight limits. If you're saying the wheels are more of a concern than the frame, I might finally get one then. On my current bike I had to replace the wheels they came with pretty soon because they needed frequent trueing and I was also snapping spokes like crazy, but the DT Swiss ones I replaced them with have been perfect, so I'm not really worried about wheels.
If you have a post mount frame and fork just use post mount calipers, if you're upgrading to grx just use a shimano post mount caliper.
Or do an even better upgrade and use hope calipers :)
ollie, a dremel tool would be perfect for sanding down a brake pad e, stand up on descents if you wanna airbrake. DH longboarders do this alll the time. ee, the gentelman should check the ASTM rating for the frame. different frames have different rating from like 1-5 i beleive.
I've heard that sandpaper leaves behind abrasive particles, so a fine metal file is better to "resurface" brake pads, what do you think?
I wondered about that!
You can ride any bike regardless of the manufacturers recommended weight limit. It’s just that they won’t be responsible for any damages or injuries that may occur. Heavier the weight & the higher the speed equals more force which translate to more stress that a certain material has to deal with. Some carbon bikes were not meant to withstand the heavier weight.
Definitely look at getting some wheels custom-built if you are a heavier rider (or even if not, I'm only 82kg!). It's actually a fairly economic option - I do it to show my LBS some love and because I can't always get what I want off-the-peg. If you can source some NOS hubs off eBay or similar you could get a half-decent pair of wheels for £200 - go to town on trick bits and you might spend £500. You might struggle to get higher spoke counts on carbon rims but there's nothing wrong with alloy really.
I crossed Austraila, New Zealand and dd the Norwegian highlands, using a low lying Yak expedition trailer behind my mountain bike. Spreading the total weight among 3 wheels made me going MUCH faster and easier than when carrying the same on two wheels. My advice: USE a Yak expedition trailer😊😊😊😊👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
i don't know what sort of post-mount brakes he's running - but I've run hydro flat mount before getting my current frame which is from 2018 -
back then post mount was more common, that's not a problem tho as I can get Ultegra hydro post mount.
and let me tell you they are MUCH better than flat mount. wow.
I steer clear of bikes and components with measly system limits. At one point a couple of years ago I was eyeing a Focus Paralane and a Ghost Road Rage -series bikes as complements to My beloved, beautiful Salsa WarBird 2019. The moment I learned of their highly off-putting weight limit (of 110kg and 120kg respectively), I instantly shifted My focus to better bikes. A bit of a shame, because both the Ghost and the Focus are otherwise very appealing bikes.
Same goes for wheels: while I love LightWeight and Zipp wheels as much as anyone, My favourite wheels are the Spinergy (i.e., FCC 47 Disc) and Scope. Neither manufacturer has a stated max weight limit (Scope specifically mentions the lack of a system weight limit for their disc wheels). While I find both Spinergy and Scope designs as beautiful as the best of Zipp and Enve (and probably a tad below the LightWeight), the absence of a weight limit on these wheels (plus, the purported extra comfort of PBO-spoked Spinergy wheels) means that these wheels are better for a normal rider than any of the latter. Plus, they're somewhat more reasonably priced as well, which, too, facilitates the likelihood of acquisition. Bontrager Aeolus XXX are also very appealing, but these are somewhat more expensive - and I do not see how their greater price is warranted. Idem, the Beast wheels. Then, there are the Pacenti and the somewhat more affordable Reynolds - also suitable for heavier riders, going by the stats. But many Reynolds wheels happen to exhibit lateral hub play. Plus, they appear a little visually bland, compared to both the Spinergy and Scope deep-section wheels.
…anyway, for Me (weighing up to ca. 130kg when out of shape and 84 in shape, and using bikes for chores and long-distance touring, among other things, but being very keen both on speed and beauty and hating the guts of hideous, heavy, crude traditional upright "touring" and ugly city bikes) - a versatile gravel bike with all the necessary mounts and properly high weight limit (or - better yet - none at all) - is the way to go.
Brilliant questioned followed by Brilliant answers. I'm keen to know how some of the views get on with these suggestions, especially the PPF. I am awaiting my Orbea Orca which is due to be delivered on the 21st July. Is there a chance of another video to display step by step how to apply the PPF to support the GCN fans?
Ronny: Ride Alpe D’Huez, you have much greater protection from the wind and you can stop on the switchbacks on the way down to let your brakes cool and take pictures.
my spokes were braking on the wheels that came on the bike.i had wheels made with more spokes and was budget priced and that solved the problem.i am 6.5 and 115 kgs :)
Thanks Ollie and crew....
Carbon specific pads actually brake better than alloy ones, when using alloy rims. The modulation seems a bit better. I think it's because they are softer, however they do wear more quickly doing this.
Im 6' 3" 220lbs ive been over the weight limit on every bike ive ever owned
Finally, some news I can use, that weight-limit sticker is like the one about not riding at night.
I'm not chancing it, although I'm not heavy to begin with.
to protect your bike frame, Look for "helicopter tape" , Same as the expensive frame protection kits but far far cheeper
#AskGCNTech
Two (maybe two and a half)! random aero questions....
1) is the point with a tailwind where you are better off being more upright in the saddle and using your body like a sail to be pushed along.
2) Beards - given the debate over hairy / shaved legs how does face stubble / beards impact aerodynamics? Also is would there any benefit to a longer beard, thinking it could smooth out the gap between your chin and chest.
1) is easily answered by physics. It is all about your speed relative to the speed of the wind from the back. So do "your speed minus backwind speed = your air speed" and act according to your air speed. If it is negativ, e.g. you go 40k/h in a 60k/h backwind ( 40-60 = -20), go sail. If it is close to 0, drive how you get most power/comfortable.
as a fatboi rider, I can confirm you absolutely can ride the bike if you are over the limit, just be weary of smashing through single tracks or drops etc :)
#AskGCNTech I see riders at the Tour de France sometimes warm up or cool down with wheel on trainers. Does this not burn and damage the tyre ? I would like to know if amateurs could do the same without ruining their tyres ?
It does I used a normal tyre once when it was quite worn and you would get a nasty smell of rubber and you get little chunks of rubber come off and eventually a flat spot all round your tyre. You can get special tyres for on wheel trainers which do work well.
For pros wouldn't matter as much to warm down as probably using a new tyre the next day anyway.
Core exercises will help you develop more strength for cycling, especially seated on climbs, and work on pulling up more than pushing down on the pedals while climbing. you have more strength in your thighs and you should find this is easier.
Does the gcn shop ship to the states
My weigh is 130 kg,my Trek road bike has 100kg limit,also with Mavic Axium Alu wheels,and I have no problem to ride more than 200km
#AskGCNTech In the recent Sydney floods, my Kickr snap went under water. If my insurance is approved do I go for another Kickr snap, which I use with my older bike which is only 7speed. Or go for a more modern Kickr direct drive. No idea on model. My good bike is a Ribble and 11sp so should fit. Most of the time I only ride indoors when it rains, so its a hard decision as to which way I go. Thanks.
#AskGCNTech I know that tubeless shows lower drag in tests, but I can't help wondering if that's because tests are done at a steady speed and fixed direction. In real world use, wouldn't the slushing around of sealant caused by slight variations in speed and direction as you ride cause higher drag? Or is that movement so miniscule as to make no real difference?
Get a lugged steel frame from the 90s!
#AskGCNTech which one is better, upgrading bearings or getting stiffer equipment for flat road?
as for brakes overheat, do you think that spaying water on the disks (or the rims) can make any damage?
This will make them cool too quickly and cause warping. Don't do that. Let them cool down naturally.
Side-topic, some mfgs are now making 2.0 and 2.2 mm-thick rotors for greater heat capacity. Std is 1.8 mm.
no carbon rim brake wheels down huez or ventoux!!!!
#askgcntech i recently scratched my frame (very minor) after wiping out on a corner (next to a field that have been over zealously fertilized with cow byproducts).
Would standard model/ airfix paint be fine to cover over these small scratches (aluminum frame and carbon forks)
#AskGCNTech
Hi GCN team. I have recently bought a brand new GTR Sport road bike, but I have discovered that the chainring was bent, and sent it to the store for repair, but they just repositioned the front mech so that it doesn't rub against it.
my question is: is it normal for a chainring to be slightly bent (1-2mm off true)? and if not, is it safe to ride it like that?
thank you in advance.
That's not a small amount. With the compensation they did, the cage would be a little too far away from the chainring at all other points except for the bent point.
See if you can find a replacement.
Hi there, Ollie. I have looked all over the web for a rider weight limit for the Bianchi Specialissima, but have had zero success. Would you or anyone at GCN know this information? Many thanks for any help you can render. Cheers!
#AskGCNTech. Hi there. Love the show! I was riding down a smallish hill on my bike today (Bianchi Infinito CV with stock Fulcrum wheels) and took my hands off momentarily to stretch my back and my bike started to have a huge speed shimmy. The headset looked like it was moving +/- ~3-5cm from the middle position. I was only doing about 35 - 40 kph at the time. The shimmy stopped as soon as I grabbed the bars but kind of startled me when it happened. I’ve ridden much faster both on flats and down bigger hills (topped out @ ~ 75 kph on one hill) and I’ve never had anything like that happen before. Any ideas on what would cause such a severe shimmy? Thanks!
Something similar happened to me, though it appeared at even lower speed of ~20/25 kph. It was because my back wheel was slightly bent. Might be somenthing to check.
@@3noLiVe will do. Thanks!
#askgcntech Hey Ollie and Alex (and Manon, maybe?!)! I’ve just upgraded my bike to the new 12s Ultegra, and I have opted for a semi-compact 52/36 chain set. I wanted to run use 2 sets of wheels - one deeper set for the flats, with a 11-30 cassette; and a shallower set for climbing. However I wanted to give myself a little extra gearing when climbing, so thought a 11-34 cassette would be best. I know the 12s has only 1 mech cage length, but would the chain be long enough to accommodate switching out the 30 for the the 34, or do I need to replace this? Can 1 chain run on both cassette options? Thanks!
#AskGCNTech I se ridées au the Tour de France sometimes warm up or cool down with wheel on trainers. Does this not burn and damage the tyre ? I would like to know if amateurs could do the same without ruining their tyres ?
Would deeper section wheels be better suited for heavier riders?
Regardless of rim depth, thicker spokes and a different lacing pattern will suit better. This is where wheelbuilding studios come in as they can spec almost any wheelset for almost any rider as they take a rider's weight, riding style and desires into account.
#askGCNtech- Hello tech team! I want to buy a Tacx Neo 2T trainer for next winter. All of my road bikes have disc brakes. All reviews I have read or seen on the Neo 2T say that the rear caliper will be in contact with the side of the trainer. So my question is: what do the pro teams that use the Neo 2T do as a solution to this issue? They have to mount and remove multiple bikes from those trainers every day so they must have a solution. Could you get an answer from any if the team mechanics about this issue?
#askGCNTech can i convert my TT bike to a 1x from a 2x by removing the inner chainring and the front mech
#askGCNtech
I recently got an old Burley tandem, and it has old hydraulic magura rim brakes. Would a modern hydraulic brake lever work with these? Thanks
Wow, interesting question. But in the end, you're still stuck with rim brakes.
#AskGCNTech Hi, GCN Tech When switching to an ospw, do I need a longer chain to accommodate with the larger pulley wheels?
#askgcntech - hey you awesome people. You mentioned double wrapping bar tape a few weeks back and also did an excellent video last week on bar wrapping. So….. I get the concept but what do you do about the double wrap around the bar plugs - there is only room inside the bar end for one layer of tape so what do you do to overcome this? Thanks all - love you! 😂
I don't think it's necessary to stuff even a single layer inside the bar end. I just start at the bottom, overlap and continue up the bar.
Nice issue 👍👍👍👍
Hi,
I am about to buy a used carbon bike. It has a a big scratch on the down tube. I am a bit worried the carbon might be impacted. However there is no sign of the carbon being broken. Is there any way to know if the structure of the frame has been impacted or is it’s just a scratch in the paint.
Tap it with a coin! Tap it first gently on an area that is not damaged, then go over the scratch. If the area with the scratch suddenly changes dramatically in tone or sounds much much quieter, it is likely compromised.
I weigh 218kg I was commuting 7 miles a day on a cube agree gtc everything was fine until I snapped a spoke but being quite a confident home mechanic I ordered the bits and repaired the wheels I rode my mountain bike in the meantime, got back on my carbon fibre dream bike and all was good for about 3 days then another spoke snapped so I replaced the wheels from campagnolo to shimano r1 I think all good for a month or two and as sure as anything snapped a spoke at which point I banned myself from riding the carbon bike until I lose some weight
I'm honestly impressed you can ride that far at that weight, you won't have any problem dropping the pounds quickly you sound like a beast
You need thick spokes for your wheels. Talk to a wheelbuilding studio, a reputable one can spec what's ideal for your weight.
#AskGCNTech Hi all, i was wondering if it is possible to pair sram rival etap derailleurs with sram force rim brake shifters? (12 speed) thanks
The difference is Jon was a bike mechanic and had knowledge of the industry. In “modern” GCN, there are just home mechanics (wanna be). Answers to 1st, 2nd and 3rd questions are totally amateur wrapped in fancy words/enthusiasm (and pretty face)
#askgcntech how many yellow, green, etc jerseys do they make for the Tour given the number of potential riders who might end up wearing one over the 3 weeks?
#AskGCNTech How long do aluminum bike frames last? My bike was made in 2005 and I heard that they could crack suddenly during a ride after 5-10 years. What are the warning signs?
I've cracked a few alloy frames and they all start to creak before hand.
Always find your creaks in your bike because it could be an indication of something about fail.
Aluminium frameset durability also depends on your riding style. The harder you ride it, the shorter it'll last.
@@sbccbc7471 does harder riding mean pedaling hard, or does it mean putting lots of weight on the bike? Riding it offroad?
@@oplechlmoriki Mainly pedaling hard, like sprinting frequently. Combine that with a heavier rider and the frameset has a lot more to bear.
@@sbccbc7471 i’m not necessarily heavy, but I do sprint lots. oh well 😬
#AskGCNTech Hi guys. A lot of advice tells me to run low tyre pressures (say 5 bar) yet my Mavic Yksion UST say not to go below (say) 6 bar printed on the sidewall. This occurs on other tyres i have too (different brands). Will they fall off if I run them below the stated min pressure? Is this the manufacturer being ultra cautious? (note this is subtly different to the question asked a couple of weeks ago by another viewer; I am not using inserts and this is a 25 mm road tyre issue). Cheers!
its an thing or good question im an big guy 2 i waigt 110 kg and think like this it would wear lots faster so keep an eye on the wear off parts but rims or frames are stronger than is adverised yes an ligter person wil go faster but ride like you stole it it doesnt matter i nevver split an bike in 2 so dont worry iff your wight is below 130 kg
#AskGCNTech
Hi guys, I have an aluminium Canyon Endurance with rim brakes as my first road bike. After 2 years, I am thinking about upgrading my OEM wheels for some carbon ones. During last week's tech show, Hank and Ollie were reading some of the comments about biggest regret purchases and agreed with one comment about carbon rim wheels where Ollie described them as "Pants" for not stopping in the wet and the sound of money rubbing away, so now I am having second thoughts about the upgrade. I am moving to Denmark soon where if never ever rains (see TDF Stage 1 TT), but would like the aero gains of some 45mm deep wheels for the relatively flat country. So would you advise upgrading to carbon wheels anyway or put that money towards upgrading to a disk brake bike in the future?
Cheers,
Dan
Check out HED wheels. There's a 45 mm deep version that's basically an aluminium rim with a carbon fairing. Although heavier than a full carbon rim, but you maintain braking performance. HED believes in aluminium braking superiority.
When you swap between your aluminium wheels, no brake pad swap needed.
I did a century right being 40kg over my bike weight limit and have been riding the bike for nearly 2 years. If there is something wrong with the bike I can see or feel it
#AskGCNTech Hey gang, I'm wondering if you can save a rusted chain. I was hit by a hailstorm at the end of my ride and straight to the shower after i got home, completely ignoring my drenched bike. The dry lube on the chain got washed away during the storm and the chain started to rust. Can i keep using the chain bacause it still relatively new bike
You can lube it and see. If there is rust in the rollers get a new chain. If it's mainly cosmetic, and any squeak goes away after a good lube, you're good to go.
I bought a bicycle to exercise and get my weight down, but the tyres burst. I was very put off from this
#AskGCNTech Hi GCN What is the best bike under £2000
#askgcntech On the topic of bigger riders, would an aero bike’s benefits be wasted on someone who just needs to lose weight? Can loose fitting clothing negate those same aero benefits?
Yes and yes. Save the aero stuff for when you've lost the weight. Just enjoy the rides and don't worry about tech.
If your only goal is to lose weight then it doesn't matter, it doesn't even matter what bike you're riding.
@@iddra1868 Oh sorry I think my question wasn't clear. It wasn't that the only goal or even primary goal was to lose weight. It was more along the lines of "If you have fat you can lose is it pointless to buy an aero bike?"
@@Millicente Logically I would say it's not pointless. You will have loses from loose clothing, larger surface area etc. but the aero bike will add some gains because of its design (aero handlebars, tubes, wheels, integrated cables). These are gains which a "normal" bike doesn't give you.
@@Millicente I don't know if and how aeroness will affect your feelings for your bike, but chances are that if you love your bike you will ride it more often.
#askgcntech
Can you explain the difference in the disk brake mounts?
#askgcntech I`m thinking about getting an oval chainring for my bike (105 r7000). But i don`t want to change the big ring as i really like the look of r7000 set. Is it a viable option to change a small ring and will it affect my shifting?
It will not affect the shifting,
It's totally OK to do so.
@@sbccbc7471 Cool, anybody knows where can i get one with 34t?
Absolute black do a 34t for your chainset - their website has a really helpful chainset checker on the front page that narrows down the options. I’ve not used them personally but have heard good things
#ASKGCNTECH hi gang,iam currently running latex tubes with rim brakes on a 9kg bike with rider weight of 75kg and iam a little concerned about heat buildup affecting the latex tubes while depending. I live in a quiet hilly area (north Yorkshire) lots of ups followed by fast descents
How likely am I to have problems ie blowouts
Many thanks Mike
Bad hair day Ollie. Did you sleep at the studio, or start filming after a big night out?
#AskGCNTech
Hi guys, I realy like the show.
I am studying in Israel where the streets arent smooth and I also want to ride a little bit in the terain. Should I get a Gravel bike, a Cyclo cross bike or some kind of a special race bike.
Thank you
Not a cyclocross bike unless you fancy an aggressive position over longer distances and not being able to mount much to your bike. Choose something that suits 90% of your riding and you'll love it no doubt.
I only watch to see how many times Ollie can slip in GCN product adverts.
#ASKGCNTech Hi Manon & guys, do you think that Pogacar pulls his hair after putting his helmet to have the same bunch of hairs on the same spot every single time ?
Is nearing a bikes weight limit really a common problem for your watchers?
You really shouldn’t put more weight on a bike than it’s rated for period! There are custom bikes that are built for more weight. Many years ago Cannondale built a custom bike for Shaquille O’Neal. Commotion, a small builder in Oregon makes a touring bike called the Americano which is built with tandem tubes and wheels. It’s a bit heavy but it will easily handle 120 kg or more. It’s a very stout bike that’s made for heavy touring.
Problem is that bikes are made cheaply and thus put a usual rider with some luggage already over the limit. More expensive bikes can handle larger payloads, but not your average bike shop ride.
Have you ever rode a bike without a saddle?
Grand.
Personally I wouldn’t risk it. Carbon rims are expensive so I’d just change the pads.
4:09 but they have a maximum weight limit so what are you expecting for them to say? 😂
I recently descended a steep (30% in some sections) road with a very tight anus and absolutely had to drag the brakes! I know that’s not preferable but I was accelerating to nearly 70kph in a matter of seconds, which while exciting, is a little sketchy on these winding roads! Annoying as it was, I had no choice but to give those poor cheap carbon rims and hopelessly flexible rim brakes some relief!
Sounds scary!
Please do not sand your brake pads with sandpaper. The fine grit will stick onte the pads and immediately grind down your braketrack. Only use an uncontaminated (no metal) file or something like a fresh dremel tool (only ones with metal teeth)
Marin four corners vs Bergamont grandurance 4. Which is the best for touring....
i am 110kg and im used to riding my bike
#askgcntech
Since carbon rim-brake wheels pose a sacrifice in braking performance in the wet, I'm curious:
Is the aerodynamic benefit of deep section wheels reduced by the rain, compared to the benefit gained in dry conditions? (This could be a very miserable idea for a video...)
For my rim brake race bike, I'll typically race rainy days on my shallow depth training wheels for sake of the aluminum brake track. But I've always wondered if I'm losing a similar number of watts as I would on a dry day, or if it's just a wash. (pun intended)
(Most of my races are flat, so weight is not a significant factor.)
Why is the rim wearing like that to begin with.make the rim a little harder and stop the rim coming off onto my break pads.nowdays rims don't last a fraction of the time they used to last. Because there making the rims to soft....
If you stand up on the pedals it puts less weight on the bike. Scientific fact!
Im a fat fucker and I ride a giant defy, they all make fun of me until I smoke em.🤣
#AskGCNTech Could we please have Ollie remove the "Save the rim breaks" sticker from his laptop as you all have proved multiple times the superiority of disk brakes'.