Can confirm this works on the newer versions of the TREATLIFE Smart Dimmer Switch, Single-Pole Smart Switch. This switch now ships with the WBS3. Was able to remove and replace with an ESP8266 ESP-12F and now have the switch controlled by Tasmota. Thanks for the vid!
I just transplanted my first chip! It was incompatible with cloud-cutter via OTA or serial so this was the only option. Thank you for explaining it all so well.
Great Video. "Rescued" a whole batch of Moes light switches just received from Ali Express. Previous batches were flashable...these ones arrived with the nasty little WB3Ss. Deep breath, bought the Hot air rework station, a few ESP12Fs and the code burner. Wrecked the 1st one (too much force lifting the WB3S). The rest all very successful once I had a feel for force v temperature v time. Thanks from the UK!
Yay! Great job! Yes I was nervous on my first one as well and even that the second or third wasn't perfect but patience is definitely key. Another tip is apply some flux to the chip to help it flow and sometimes I will actually apply leaded solder to the joints already there as that solder helps the old flow faster.
You are so brave and skilled with desoldering those junk chips. I have ruined everything, i layed my hands on lately. And i'm talking only about soldering pins for flashing stuff. And thanks for tip on Athom products
It's cool to practice on some old boards that are being thrown out. I totally get the increased nervousness especially when the dollar value of the product is higher. I have the same issue myself.
THANK YOU!!!!! OMG - I purchased YaeCCC 858D Hot Air Rework Station (just a clone like all the others) and THANKS to your warning, I opened mine up. Just about passed out, like yours, the fuse was on the NEUTRAL wire! Fuse blows, ALL STILL LIVE! ADDITIONALLY, in my unit, the case WAS NOT GROUNDED!!!! All fixed! FYI: while working on 'TreatLife Single Pole ON/OFF Switch - SS02S (purchased March 2022) found the new Tuya WB3S chip and found that the 'SS02_LED Board V1.1, dated 2019-01-19, [like others noted] EN has VCC applied, GPIO15 has a 1K resistor to ground, a 'Restart' button is attached to RST, GPIO14 has a soldered pad and a trace that goes to a Not Connected pin (nowhere?) also that Tx and Rx have NO pads and are NOT soldered to the PCB. [Forgot to add; the SS02_LED Board' has no additional processor, just resistors, caps, buttons and led, the mother board has a power supply and relay] Thanks again, you saved me from a potentially NASTY shock! Great, easy to follow video, as always.
I would have been blown away with this stuff as a kid myself. Hell I still am in my age now. That little chip does all the webserver, mqtt, commands, wifi etc... in a light bulb!?!? what?
This is such good info. Thanks so much for taking the time to reverse engineer it all and sharing your findings. I can't wait until there is a universal standard for smart home stuff and manufacturers begin implementing MQTT in their consumer products, but until then, this is a life-saver.
Great video! I did a transplant with my RGB LED controller. RTL to ESP12-E, it didn’t boot even with GPIO15 grounded. It turned out I also need to connect VCC to EN (CH-PD) using a 10k ohms resistor.
Have you looked into putting OpenBeken on these new Tuya modules? It's not quite as familiar as ESPHome, but it means you can use all those modules you're removing. Might even be able to rig it so it works without the soldering work.
Yes! Glad to see they fixed their previous mistake quickly and did the cool check of each color at first boot. I love they put the various templates/settings on each item as well. One stop shop from the source.
I have one in my work room area and actually part of my lighting at times during videos. It is dual channel white so it works out for to go cool or warm white or just in between.
The treatlife fan and light controller switch they started soldering both sides of the connector pins connecting the two boards together, so you can't even easily separate to get to the chip to replace 😠
Seeing you did this a year ago, Love it! have a Tuya device that was pretty good (cloud Tuya iot) for a free month. Tuya local may be local, but requires the iot to get it going. One email per month. Definitely going to go through some more vids and did hit the Sub button. Let's see what else you got. End.. Got an adventurer on your hands there! Great parenting.
Fun ideas for these? I bought a bunch and only used a few for things like humidity/temperature and motion sensing via mqtt. The camera attachment seems too poor quality (poor low light etc) to be useful and the carbon emissions detectors seem confusing to set up.
I might just have to mod some of my devices. I'm new to home-assistant and I found a way to get local keys from tuya but I can't really get anything working besides a simple switch.
@@digiblurDIY thanks for the reply! So just for anyone interested: I installed the ESP and flashed WLED. It went into a light that is RGB+CCT.. which begrudgingly isn't supported by HA via WLED integration (found that out hard way). So looks like I'm going to have to reflash it with either Tasmota or try my hand at ESPhome for the first time.. you know, after I remove it from the ceiling *eye roll*. Simple PWM light.
I did correct myself in the text as I misspoke. GPIO15 can not be high/floating on the ESP8266 or it will fail to boot. Most dev boards/devices have a pull down resistor attached to it so the pin can still be used.
Thank you! I noticed there hasn't been any comments posted lately, I would like to confirm ... I have a WBR3 chip and possibly a secondary Tuya MCU ~ would replacing this chip with the ESP-12S be recommended (having the correct pin layouts internally pulled to not require bridging GPIO15), rather than using the ESP-12F ?
If it is bridged internally then go right ahead, they are known to be more expensive and hard to get at times. We've even been replacing them with ESP32-C3 that doesn't have this requirement and brings bluetooth and hardware PWM to the table as well.
hello, I want to do this in a ceiling fan that has the Tuya board and put an esp12, do you know if there is any solution to be able to read the UART commands that the board gives?
yes, that's actually how I did a dimmer a year or two ago on a live stream. I used a TTL adapter soldered to the RX and TX lines of the ESP so I could see the UART commands going back and forth between the two MCUs.
As the Esp-12 is as or even more expensive than a D1 Mini would it work if you flash the D1 Mini and then desolder the esp8266 chip and use that instead?
I've just done the transplant on my MOES dimmer. I desoldered an ESP chip from a D1 Mini I had laying around and used it in the MOES dimmer after flashing tasmota on the chip. It works great so far, however, when controlling the dimming using the dimmer itself it doesn’t always reflect the change on tasmota/home assistant. Anyone had similar issues?
What I understand you need the Code burner to burn the Software on the esp before soldering on the board. Or do I miss understand it? Because I have 3 newer tuya window sensor
On one of mine (uk light switch) I found I’d dislodged one of the surface mount leds that was close to the WB3S. Managed to reheat and move back onto its pads. Extra light, magnifying glass and tweezers all required !
@@digiblurDIY Awesome. There’s a rework station at the place I work so just the cost of the ESPs and a bit of care and time. Thanks for your reply. Subbed!
@@digiblurDIY I am in Australia and the English pronunciation is solder just like the spelling of the word. I just can't see how saying sodder comes from the spelling. (maybe do an English version of the video 😃)No biggie. We say stuff here in OZ that no-one else uses. Good video. I wouldn't trust myself with a heat gun. It would end badly. Just say what you want.👍
Do you flash the esp8266 after or before soldering it to the board ? Because I've tried many times to flash it unsoldered using (RX/TX/3V/GND/GPIO0 to gnd) and it doesn't work.What am I doing wrong ? Thanks.
Good video. Does anyone know a way to reliably get the ESP8266 to work in a very-low power situation, I have a few Tuya water sensors that run on Wifi off of two AAA batteries-I actually meant to order the Zigbee versions-that have the RTL chipset. Thinking to stick them in the future use/parts box for now. There’s no power socket under sinks, where I need these for.
Funny you mention that. I did talk about the 12s but I was trying to trim some rambling a bit and didn't have any on hand yet. So that piece got cut out. Thanks for mentioning it as it is a good choice.
It is not too hard to unsolder modules without hot air. I've had success with running a thick copper wire along all the pads, add a lot of solder, and then zip back and forth with a soldering iron on high heat till the module fell off. Does have the risk of components inside the module getting dislodged too, but who cares about that ;-)
@@unmeshagarwala8156 No, what I used was solid 1.5 mm wire from a installation-grade mains cable, in the expectation of this providing good heat capacity and conduction for even heat on all the pads.
During the esp flashing tool as it makes it super simple to throw it in, flash with the Tasmota.com web installer, add it to your wifi and make sure the chip works.
@@digiblurDIY the log says [21:56:21][C][mdns:108]: mDNS: [21:56:21][C][mdns:109]: Hostname: floor-lamp [21:56:21][C][ota:093]: Over-The-Air Updates: [21:56:21][C][ota:094]: Address: floor-lamp.local:8266 [21:56:21][C][ota:097]: Using Password. [21:56:21][C][api:138]: API Server: [21:56:21][C][api:139]: Address: floor-lamp.local:6053 [21:56:21][C][api:141]: Using noise encryption: YES [21:56:21][C][tuya:041]: Tuya: [21:56:21][C][tuya:056]: Datapoint 20: switch (value: ON) [21:56:21][C][tuya:062]: Datapoint 21: enum (value: 0) [21:56:21][C][tuya:058]: Datapoint 22: int value (value: 300) [21:56:21][C][tuya:058]: Datapoint 23: int value (value: 500) [21:56:21][C][tuya:076]: Product: '{"p":"mnf6wa8qp1mu7gpt","v":"1.0.0","m":0}' [21:56:22][D][tuya:502]: Sending WiFi Status [21:56:33][D][api:102]: Accepted 10.0.1.22 [21:56:34][D][api.connection:961]: Home Assistant 2023.4.6 (10.0.1.22): Connected successfully how would i set the rgb for this led here is what i have so far tuya: light: - platform: "tuya" name: "Floor Lamp" dimmer_datapoint: 22 switch_datapoint: 20 color_temperature_invert: True color_temperature_datapoint: 23 cold_white_color_temperature: 7000K warm_white_color_temperature: 2700K
I know this is kind of old, but I think it's still relevant. However I just tried to do 2 of these and neither one will show up on my wifi after I solder it in place. I do have the solder bridge as well so I'm not sure what could be causing the issue. I read I may need to get rid of the tuya mcu but not sure how to go about doing that.
I don't understand why in place of cleaning the pads and solder the esp like a chip on a new board....you put that solder on the pads and soldered the esp in mid air..
Another question for you. Do you need to bridge GPIO16 when replacing the WB3L? Tuya integration in HA is much better since latest revision but still concerned about Tuya potentially charging me for API calls from HA in the future even though I bought their product.
@@digiblurDIY Thanks. Yep, sadly I had connected them (although I refused to set up an account). They're going back tomorrow. I ordered some non-invasive ones from Athom; it's not worth my time to Dremel these things open and reprogram them serially. Too bad more people don't learn to reject this junk, and reward vendors who sell open products.
i am currently using this configuration. I would like to use click events (single, double, tripple,etc) to trigger rules. Can this be done when you configure the device as tuya type in tasmota?
I'm unable to boot my esp12f, when using the code burner Tasmota working fine, once soldering it and briding gpio15 to GND the ESP won't boot, Anything else should be done?
is this process meant to replace one of the modules that can't be flashed to tasmota with an esp12F? if that's the case, how do you set the tasmota up to talk to the tuya MCU?
Hi Travis, I have the Martin Jerry US-SS01 decora switch, and MJ US-FC-01 Fan Controller. The fan controller has a WB3S chip, and the decora switch has a WB2S. I have some questions concerning both: - Do you know of an esp chip that can be used as a replacement for the WB2S? - The fan controller doesn't have a Nuvoton chip in it but does have a chip that's shaped like the Nuvoton ( can't quite make out the markings on the chip; I think it says SC92F8463BX). How can I tell whether this controller has the TuyaMCU? - How do I configure Tasmota if the fan controller doesn't have a TuyaMCU?
That secondary chip will be the TuyaMCU as it is called in Tasmota. I haven't done the swap on mine just yet, possibly this weekend. wireless-tag.en.alibaba.com/product/1600312763169-828852144/wholesale_original_factory_esp8285_wifi_module_2MB_ESP_01N_integrated_circuit_WT_01N_ESP8285H16_module_for_smart_home_ce_fcc.html?spm=a2700.shop_plser.41413.12.197b62fc5F8BmG
@@digiblurDIY Thanks Travis. Just to confirm. On the MJ fan controller, just swap the chip and configure Tasmota as shown on your Treatlife fan controller video - correct? I've bought many items via AliExpress, but never through Alibaba. Do you have to contact the seller and make individual arrangements when buying through Alibaba?
Some pads come off super easy as they aren't connected to anything. Sometimes I add leaded solder to the existing along with flux after to let it all flow. Try not to let it hinge too much or it could rip as well.
@@digiblurDIY was using a dp10 smart plug as my working/practice device and got it working!…. Patience, practice and the correct tools definitely help… with patience being a large part of it lol Switching now to the main project of getting the ds01c dimmers converted over. Will keep you posted but thanks again for the great video.
Blows me away that you can swap the shittymodule™ for an esp32 and the pins will just be the same (position, size, etc), what a coincidence... or maybe it's not?
Not a coincidence. They were originally designed for the esp8266 (not esp32) and the mfg swapped in a cheaper module. Removing the cheap one and putting in the esp8266 that we know how to work with is a win. I do expect they'll start designing around the cheap module, but that's a problem for another day.
Hi there! Based on your newer video (ruclips.net/video/t0o8nMbqOSA/видео.html) and some research I did, it sounds like replacing the wifi chip is no longer required. The WB3S in Treatlife dimmers I have could've been flashed directly - but oh well, already did the replacement work on about 8 devices and they are working with Tasmota. BUT what I still cannot do is enable multi-press, and I am wondering if there is now a solution where I can pass multi-press from the Tuya MCU back to Tasmota?? Any thoughts? Thanks in advance
Yes. It has a secondary MCU that handles all the button pushes. Sucks for anything multipress. If you want a dimmer with no secondary MCU check this one out digiblur.com/wiki/devices/dimmers/martin_jerry_mj-sd01_pwm_dimmer
Liked the video! I've come across a couple of devices lately with the WB2S module (:developer.tuya.com/en/docs/iot/wb2s-module-datasheet?id=K9ghecl7kc479 ), and just broke it off and soldered wires to the pads going to an 8266 module. Not as clean, but, as long as there's enough room in the case to stuff the module, it works.
I tried replacing a WBS2 module as well just this week, flashed an ESP12-F with Tasmota, but ran into problems with the ESP module repeatedly crashing on boot. I can't seem to figure out what I'm doing wrong. I've got GPIO15 pulled to ground, and GPIO0, GPIO2, RST, and EN all pulled to VCC (all with 10K resistors), so I shouldn't have any floating pins. Anybody have any ideas?
Can confirm this works on the newer versions of the TREATLIFE Smart Dimmer Switch, Single-Pole Smart Switch. This switch now ships with the WBS3. Was able to remove and replace with an ESP8266 ESP-12F and now have the switch controlled by Tasmota. Thanks for the vid!
I just transplanted my first chip! It was incompatible with cloud-cutter via OTA or serial so this was the only option. Thank you for explaining it all so well.
Nice!
Great Video. "Rescued" a whole batch of Moes light switches just received from Ali Express. Previous batches were flashable...these ones arrived with the nasty little WB3Ss. Deep breath, bought the Hot air rework station, a few ESP12Fs and the code burner. Wrecked the 1st one (too much force lifting the WB3S). The rest all very successful once I had a feel for force v temperature v time. Thanks from the UK!
Yay! Great job! Yes I was nervous on my first one as well and even that the second or third wasn't perfect but patience is definitely key.
Another tip is apply some flux to the chip to help it flow and sometimes I will actually apply leaded solder to the joints already there as that solder helps the old flow faster.
You are so brave and skilled with desoldering those junk chips. I have ruined everything, i layed my hands on lately. And i'm talking only about soldering pins for flashing stuff. And thanks for tip on Athom products
It's cool to practice on some old boards that are being thrown out. I totally get the increased nervousness especially when the dollar value of the product is higher. I have the same issue myself.
THANK YOU!!!!! OMG - I purchased YaeCCC 858D Hot Air Rework Station (just a clone like all the others) and THANKS to your warning, I opened mine up. Just about passed out, like yours, the fuse was on the NEUTRAL wire! Fuse blows, ALL STILL LIVE! ADDITIONALLY, in my unit, the case WAS NOT GROUNDED!!!! All fixed!
FYI: while working on 'TreatLife Single Pole ON/OFF Switch - SS02S (purchased March 2022) found the new Tuya WB3S chip and found that the 'SS02_LED Board V1.1, dated 2019-01-19, [like others noted] EN has VCC applied, GPIO15 has a 1K resistor to ground, a 'Restart' button is attached to RST, GPIO14 has a soldered pad and a trace that goes to a Not Connected pin (nowhere?) also that Tx and Rx have NO pads and are NOT soldered to the PCB. [Forgot to add; the SS02_LED Board' has no additional processor, just resistors, caps, buttons and led, the mother board has a power supply and relay] Thanks again, you saved me from a potentially NASTY shock! Great, easy to follow video, as always.
Awesome! Glad you were able to check and fix yours. Welcome to the addiction of swapping out the chips.
Just bought the hot air rework station you showed in the video. Pulled the back off and it was wired correctly from the factory.
Great video! Your son is very lucky to grow up with such a cool techie dad in an era where things like ESP modules easily available.
I would have been blown away with this stuff as a kid myself. Hell I still am in my age now. That little chip does all the webserver, mqtt, commands, wifi etc... in a light bulb!?!? what?
This is such good info. Thanks so much for taking the time to reverse engineer it all and sharing your findings. I can't wait until there is a universal standard for smart home stuff and manufacturers begin implementing MQTT in their consumer products, but until then, this is a life-saver.
Matter might help shape that a little bit plus we now have the Cloudcutter project that can OTA these and use ESPHome on them.
Wow ok thank you so much. I flashed all my chips no issue and replaced em all but didn’t know I’d need to jumper 15 and ground!!!
Hey Travis. Always a fan. Thanks again for sharing your time and expertise with us! Take care man!
Thanks! Always fun to dig into stuff. Makes it very rewarding.
Great video! I did a transplant with my RGB LED controller. RTL to ESP12-E, it didn’t boot even with GPIO15 grounded. It turned out I also need to connect VCC to EN (CH-PD) using a 10k ohms resistor.
Yep. All down to what they did screwy on the board. Great tip!
Awesome tutorials as usual! Thanks for sharing your weath of knowledge! I was able to get this done with a cheap heat gun with no issues at all.
Awesome work!
You're going to cause a shortage and price hike on the 12E/F chips! :)
I hope not! Stock up and sell later? 🤣
12:27 You so funny. You've made my day when you said. They think you're crazy, you burn them )))
Have you looked into putting OpenBeken on these new Tuya modules? It's not quite as familiar as ESPHome, but it means you can use all those modules you're removing. Might even be able to rig it so it works without the soldering work.
I have looked at the other one. Libretuya a little but I don't have any devices at this time to do it on.
Crap. I bought that exact hot air rework unit. Guess I know what I got to do next...
Yup. Definitely check it.
I use Athom light bulbs and i'm very satisfied! You can upgrade to std tasmota bin (with theo's name on it) and all the other fancy stuff ...
Yes! Glad to see they fixed their previous mistake quickly and did the cool check of each color at first boot. I love they put the various templates/settings on each item as well. One stop shop from the source.
HI, how is the 15W bulb performing? How does the white look?
I have one in my work room area and actually part of my lighting at times during videos. It is dual channel white so it works out for to go cool or warm white or just in between.
really like your new style outro these last videos
Thanks! It gets out of hand at times but all worth it and gives us and him memories.
The treatlife fan and light controller switch they started soldering both sides of the connector pins connecting the two boards together, so you can't even easily separate to get to the chip to replace 😠
Use my latest cloudcutter video and just flash it OTA with Esphome
Great vid ! I didn't know you can flash the esp with that adaptor
But wait..... There's more!
Seeing you did this a year ago, Love it! have a Tuya device that was pretty good (cloud Tuya iot) for a free month. Tuya local may be local, but requires the iot to get it going. One email per month. Definitely going to go through some more vids and did hit the Sub button. Let's see what else you got. End.. Got an adventurer on your hands there! Great parenting.
Let's just say no swap method is in the works. Bit of a rabbit hole right now but will get easier. It is oh so awesome!
And thanks!
Definition of hacking right there well done !!
Fun ideas for these? I bought a bunch and only used a few for things like humidity/temperature and motion sensing via mqtt. The camera attachment seems too poor quality (poor low light etc) to be useful and the carbon emissions detectors seem confusing to set up.
Does this mean, any ESP8266 can be Tasmotized then as long as we can hook up the appropriate TX, RX pins?
Yup!
I might just have to mod some of my devices. I'm new to home-assistant and I found a way to get local keys from tuya but I can't really get anything working besides a simple switch.
Check out this too digiblur.com/wiki/devices/
Is it recommend to flash with Tasmota then use Tasmota GUI to install WLED firmware OTA?
Awesome video- thanks, Travis!
If you have serial access just go to WLED first.
@@digiblurDIY thanks for the reply!
So just for anyone interested: I installed the ESP and flashed WLED. It went into a light that is RGB+CCT.. which begrudgingly isn't supported by HA via WLED integration (found that out hard way).
So looks like I'm going to have to reflash it with either Tasmota or try my hand at ESPhome for the first time.. you know, after I remove it from the ceiling *eye roll*. Simple PWM light.
Great video, do you always ground gpio16, or was that only for Tuya MCU? Bought all the parts some time ago, needed a push to get started. Thanks
I did correct myself in the text as I misspoke. GPIO15 can not be high/floating on the ESP8266 or it will fail to boot. Most dev boards/devices have a pull down resistor attached to it so the pin can still be used.
Thank you!
I noticed there hasn't been any comments posted lately, I would like to confirm ... I have a WBR3 chip and possibly a secondary Tuya MCU ~ would replacing this chip with the ESP-12S be recommended (having the correct pin layouts internally pulled to not require bridging GPIO15), rather than using the ESP-12F ?
If it is bridged internally then go right ahead, they are known to be more expensive and hard to get at times. We've even been replacing them with ESP32-C3 that doesn't have this requirement and brings bluetooth and hardware PWM to the table as well.
When using esp12f on any other projects do you need to pull up any pins or just pull down Gpio15?
GPIO 0 through 2 can not be pulled low at boot. If you run into ones where this is not possible, use the ESP32-C3 12F style
hello, I want to do this in a ceiling fan that has the Tuya board and put an esp12, do you know if there is any solution to be able to read the UART commands that the board gives?
yes, that's actually how I did a dimmer a year or two ago on a live stream. I used a TTL adapter soldered to the RX and TX lines of the ESP so I could see the UART commands going back and forth between the two MCUs.
Great Video and sharing of the knowledge , Thank you for the work and effort.
As the Esp-12 is as or even more expensive than a D1 Mini would it work if you flash the D1 Mini and then desolder the esp8266 chip and use that instead?
Yeah, if you have that issue/source of cheaper chips roll on.
Great video, Travis is it possible to change to change the CB2S module for a TYWE2S module in a Elivco model LSPA9 power plug (Athom look a like)
Try this module - www.alibaba.com/product-detail/wholesale-original-factory-esp8285-wifi-module_1600318895032.html
I've just done the transplant on my MOES dimmer. I desoldered an ESP chip from a D1 Mini I had laying around and used it in the MOES dimmer after flashing tasmota on the chip.
It works great so far, however, when controlling the dimming using the dimmer itself it doesn’t always reflect the change on tasmota/home assistant. Anyone had similar issues?
You enable so59?
@@digiblurDIY No, should I enable it ?
Yes
Awesome video thanks , your kid is supper brave , high five
What I understand you need the Code burner to burn the Software on the esp before soldering on the board. Or do I miss understand it? Because I have 3 newer tuya window sensor
Yes. Flash and test your chip before.. Even put it on your wifi.
With the hot air gun, how do you keep from accidentally desoldering nearby components?
Don't focus the heat on the other components and use the small tip.
Kapton Tape is one option. Google "desoldering hot air masking" too
On one of mine (uk light switch) I found I’d dislodged one of the surface mount leds that was close to the WB3S. Managed to reheat and move back onto its pads. Extra light, magnifying glass and tweezers all required !
Un gran vídeo. Enhorabuena
This is where it gets my interest back been able to tuya convert so easy got boring after the first 2.
is there a list of items that can be converted
The list is growing and growing as they change the chips. If you can transplant then the list is pretty large.
@@digiblurDIY yep done some bulbs today, I need some downlights if you know any with a full size chip
US market?
Just checked my SAIKE 898D and my hot also wasn't fused. Its because china is a country that doesn't use polarised plugs
I also check my smart plugs to make sure they are hot switched.
good stuff Travis!
Hi. Good job. Can I know what software is used to program the ESP chip?
What software are you putting on it?
@@digiblurDIY I mean, my friend. The software used to make the ESP32 chip work on the Tawi platform
This was an esp8266 transplant
Thanks for the video. Do you have a link to that flashing jig
ruclips.net/video/imKZbhJ8lvU/видео.html
"... little jig with pogo pins..." Where do I get one?
I have made some for people as needed. Fire me an email to the channel name at Gmail domain.
Have you swapped out a WB3L for an ESP-12 with success? I have 6 downlights that are giving me a hard time with Tuya integration in HA.
Yes. Very similar chip pin out.
@@digiblurDIY Awesome. There’s a rework station at the place I work so just the cost of the ESPs and a bit of care and time. Thanks for your reply. Subbed!
Is sodder like Fahrenheit? In Celsius it's solder. 😃
Sauder is how it has always been pronounced at all the TV electrical repair shops when I was a kid.
@@digiblurDIY I am in Australia and the English pronunciation is solder just like the spelling of the word. I just can't see how saying sodder comes from the spelling. (maybe do an English version of the video 😃)No biggie. We say stuff here in OZ that no-one else uses. Good video. I wouldn't trust myself with a heat gun. It would end badly. Just say what you want.👍
Doesn't bother me a bit. I pick on myself a good bit on saying terms and especially weird brand names. All in good fun.
@@digiblurDIY When you do the next solder video in Strine let me know.
Watch the movies "The castle" and "The dish" ...That's how we speak in Oz. All good.
Do you flash the esp8266 after or before soldering it to the board ? Because I've tried many times to flash it unsoldered using (RX/TX/3V/GND/GPIO0 to gnd) and it doesn't work.What am I doing wrong ? Thanks.
I get it ready and such on the code burner before I solder it on. I even put it on my wifi too.
Thanks!
Welcome!
Good video. Does anyone know a way to reliably get the ESP8266 to work in a very-low power situation, I have a few Tuya water sensors that run on Wifi off of two AAA batteries-I actually meant to order the Zigbee versions-that have the RTL chipset. Thinking to stick them in the future use/parts box for now. There’s no power socket under sinks, where I need these for.
I never really had luck with sleeping ESP8266's. Zigbee and ZWave are definitely better at that.
Thank you, sir!
A very useful video...
Thank you for watching the madness.
Funny you mention that. I did talk about the 12s but I was trying to trim some rambling a bit and didn't have any on hand yet. So that piece got cut out. Thanks for mentioning it as it is a good choice.
It is not too hard to unsolder modules without hot air. I've had success with running a thick copper wire along all the pads, add a lot of solder, and then zip back and forth with a soldering iron on high heat till the module fell off. Does have the risk of components inside the module getting dislodged too, but who cares about that ;-)
Definitely always different ways to do it. That one sounds cool. Might have to try it.
johnny respect you, but not everyone will be able to autotroit. I have a hot air. God bless
By "thick copper wire", did you perhaps mean desoldering wick/braid that is made to remove solder?
@@unmeshagarwala8156 No, what I used was solid 1.5 mm wire from a installation-grade mains cable, in the expectation of this providing good heat capacity and conduction for even heat on all the pads.
Help Pls can't boot esp12f after flashing it
Is it still in the flasher?
When did you flash the ESP with Tasmota?
During the esp flashing tool as it makes it super simple to throw it in, flash with the Tasmota.com web installer, add it to your wifi and make sure the chip works.
my tuya module chip has the gpio15 soldered to the board which gpio pin should i connect to the ground instead of gpio15 any idea thanks
That might be a problem if it is held high. I had to use the ESP32-C3 module in this case.
@@digiblurDIY the log says
[21:56:21][C][mdns:108]: mDNS:
[21:56:21][C][mdns:109]: Hostname: floor-lamp
[21:56:21][C][ota:093]: Over-The-Air Updates:
[21:56:21][C][ota:094]: Address: floor-lamp.local:8266
[21:56:21][C][ota:097]: Using Password.
[21:56:21][C][api:138]: API Server:
[21:56:21][C][api:139]: Address: floor-lamp.local:6053
[21:56:21][C][api:141]: Using noise encryption: YES
[21:56:21][C][tuya:041]: Tuya:
[21:56:21][C][tuya:056]: Datapoint 20: switch (value: ON)
[21:56:21][C][tuya:062]: Datapoint 21: enum (value: 0)
[21:56:21][C][tuya:058]: Datapoint 22: int value (value: 300)
[21:56:21][C][tuya:058]: Datapoint 23: int value (value: 500)
[21:56:21][C][tuya:076]: Product: '{"p":"mnf6wa8qp1mu7gpt","v":"1.0.0","m":0}'
[21:56:22][D][tuya:502]: Sending WiFi Status
[21:56:33][D][api:102]: Accepted 10.0.1.22
[21:56:34][D][api.connection:961]: Home Assistant 2023.4.6 (10.0.1.22): Connected successfully
how would i set the rgb for this led here is what i have so far
tuya:
light:
- platform: "tuya"
name: "Floor Lamp"
dimmer_datapoint: 22
switch_datapoint: 20
color_temperature_invert: True
color_temperature_datapoint: 23
cold_white_color_temperature: 7000K
warm_white_color_temperature: 2700K
Is it possible to flash the tuya Bluetooth gateway to tasmota?
I doubt it as their Bluetooth is encrypted.
I've tried flashing tasmota with the frog board but after 5 minutes the device leaves the network and i cannot connect to the chip anymore
Power issue?
I know this is kind of old, but I think it's still relevant. However I just tried to do 2 of these and neither one will show up on my wifi after I solder it in place. I do have the solder bridge as well so I'm not sure what could be causing the issue. I read I may need to get rid of the tuya mcu but not sure how to go about doing that.
Did they attach presolder?
Is there something holding GPIO 0 low maybe on the device? I have seen that issue.
@@digiblurDIY yes after the original burn it works fine while it’s still in the code burner. Just not when it soldered onto the board.
Check to see if GPIO 0 isn't to ground on the board. In cases like this I had to go esp32c3
I don't understand why in place of cleaning the pads and solder the esp like a chip on a new board....you put that solder on the pads and soldered the esp in mid air..
Whatever way you want to do it as long as the connection is made.
Another question for you. Do you need to bridge GPIO16 when replacing the WB3L? Tuya integration in HA is much better since latest revision but still concerned about Tuya potentially charging me for API calls from HA in the future even though I bought their product.
16 shouldn't matter.
@@digiblurDIY Sorry I meant 15 (I wasn't watching your vid and missed the correction).
If using an esp8266 then yes. Esp32c3 would not require this.
Do the newer (non-ESP) devices still show up with hostnames starting with ESP_? I have some Smart Life bulbs on which Tuya-convert did not work.
No. Those will be esp. They might be patched if you had them in the cloud.
@@digiblurDIY Thanks. Yep, sadly I had connected them (although I refused to set up an account). They're going back tomorrow. I ordered some non-invasive ones from Athom; it's not worth my time to Dremel these things open and reprogram them serially. Too bad more people don't learn to reject this junk, and reward vendors who sell open products.
i am currently using this configuration. I would like to use click events (single, double, tripple,etc) to trigger rules. Can this be done when you configure the device as tuya type in tasmota?
Depends on the device if it has buttons attached to the esp chip and not attached to some secondary MCU
Looks 10x easier than the local tuya setup.
Local Tuya.. Lol... Oh the one that requires a cloud account and internet to setup? Gotcha.
@@digiblurDIY haha yes and a developer account or whatever.. I tried that crap for 10min and then flipped the desk 😜
I'm unable to boot my esp12f, when using the code burner Tasmota working fine, once soldering it and briding gpio15 to GND the ESP won't boot, Anything else should be done?
Sounds like the circuit is holding a pin low like GPIO 0 once soldered. I had to use ESP32-C3 modules in this place.
@@digiblurDIY ESP32-C3 doesn't have the same pinout as esp12f so how you solder it? (ground is not in the same place as CB3S)
??? @digiblurDIY
how can you solder esp32-c3
@lr247 ruclips.net/video/YjKEpQDj8S0/видео.html
is this process meant to replace one of the modules that can't be flashed to tasmota with an esp12F? if that's the case, how do you set the tasmota up to talk to the tuya MCU?
Yes. It would be the same as I showed on that dimmer as it had a secondary MCU. Module 54.
Hi Travis, I have the Martin Jerry US-SS01 decora switch, and MJ US-FC-01 Fan Controller. The fan controller has a WB3S chip, and the decora switch has a WB2S. I have some questions concerning both:
- Do you know of an esp chip that can be used as a replacement for the WB2S?
- The fan controller doesn't have a Nuvoton chip in it but does have a chip that's shaped like the Nuvoton ( can't quite make out the markings on the chip; I think it says SC92F8463BX). How can I tell whether this controller has the TuyaMCU?
- How do I configure Tasmota if the fan controller doesn't have a TuyaMCU?
That secondary chip will be the TuyaMCU as it is called in Tasmota. I haven't done the swap on mine just yet, possibly this weekend.
wireless-tag.en.alibaba.com/product/1600312763169-828852144/wholesale_original_factory_esp8285_wifi_module_2MB_ESP_01N_integrated_circuit_WT_01N_ESP8285H16_module_for_smart_home_ce_fcc.html?spm=a2700.shop_plser.41413.12.197b62fc5F8BmG
@@digiblurDIY Thanks Travis. Just to confirm. On the MJ fan controller, just swap the chip and configure Tasmota as shown on your Treatlife fan controller video - correct?
I've bought many items via AliExpress, but never through Alibaba. Do you have to contact the seller and make individual arrangements when buying through Alibaba?
I haven't converted mine yet.
When I ordered in the past I just went through the process.
Check last nights live stream. I did the swap and such on it. ruclips.net/video/ie6SBHvBR0g/видео.html
Have not had success yet…. 1 pad keeps coming off and can’t get a good solder :( practice makes perfect but ARGH!
Some pads come off super easy as they aren't connected to anything. Sometimes I add leaded solder to the existing along with flux after to let it all flow. Try not to let it hinge too much or it could rip as well.
@@digiblurDIY was using a dp10 smart plug as my working/practice device and got it working!…. Patience, practice and the correct tools definitely help… with patience being a large part of it lol Switching now to the main project of getting the ds01c dimmers converted over. Will keep you posted but thanks again for the great video.
What to call the discard: "NoMCU"
Thankyou
You’re welcome 😊
Blows me away that you can swap the shittymodule™ for an esp32 and the pins will just be the same (position, size, etc), what a coincidence... or maybe it's not?
Not a coincidence. They were originally designed for the esp8266 (not esp32) and the mfg swapped in a cheaper module. Removing the cheap one and putting in the esp8266 that we know how to work with is a win.
I do expect they'll start designing around the cheap module, but that's a problem for another day.
@@Sylvan_dB interesting! thanks for the info
Can Local Tuya can be an alternative ?
It's not local though.
Donor Module
TYWE2S ones might be good donors.
Hi there! Based on your newer video (ruclips.net/video/t0o8nMbqOSA/видео.html) and some research I did, it sounds like replacing the wifi chip is no longer required. The WB3S in Treatlife dimmers I have could've been flashed directly - but oh well, already did the replacement work on about 8 devices and they are working with Tasmota.
BUT what I still cannot do is enable multi-press, and I am wondering if there is now a solution where I can pass multi-press from the Tuya MCU back to Tasmota?? Any thoughts? Thanks in advance
You would need to wire the buttons to an actual GPIO pin on the main MCU chip to enable multipress stuff.
@@digiblurDIY ok, so it can send on/off single press from MCU...but not multi press. I am truly limited by hardware for this device? Thanks again
Yes. It has a secondary MCU that handles all the button pushes. Sucks for anything multipress.
If you want a dimmer with no secondary MCU check this one out digiblur.com/wiki/devices/dimmers/martin_jerry_mj-sd01_pwm_dimmer
and what ble? wb3s has ble and esp12f doesnt.
Esp12c3 has it though and so much more. Wb3s lacks a lot of features.
@@digiblurDIY you mean the esp32-c3
@@digiblurDIY ah, i found it. 👍🏻esp-c3-12f
Does anyone know how to disable "tywe3s tasmota" Junk chip without removing it from the board? Thank.
Remove the 3V3 power source to it.
thats a esp
Liked the video! I've come across a couple of devices lately with the WB2S module (:developer.tuya.com/en/docs/iot/wb2s-module-datasheet?id=K9ghecl7kc479 ), and just broke it off and soldered wires to the pads going to an 8266 module. Not as clean, but, as long as there's enough room in the case to stuff the module, it works.
Definitely nothing wrong with being creative as long as it works.
I tried replacing a WBS2 module as well just this week, flashed an ESP12-F with Tasmota, but ran into problems with the ESP module repeatedly crashing on boot. I can't seem to figure out what I'm doing wrong. I've got GPIO15 pulled to ground, and GPIO0, GPIO2, RST, and EN all pulled to VCC (all with 10K resistors), so I shouldn't have any floating pins. Anybody have any ideas?
Here's my wiring: nextcloud.muchtall.com/s/3AnMtePnSg5Zbzg
And here's my bootlog: nextcloud.muchtall.com/s/TcxbTp2AX24RoNS
Thanks Just give me an idea to replace my WB2S modules. from a switch and a plug.
MEJOR TASMOTA IN SONOFF DEVICES