How to replace wood Fascia easily! 1x3 and 2x8 with flashing | Lacey Family Farms
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2020
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In todays video we are going to be talking about how to replace some fascia boards on our eves. This DIY, do it yourself, project is very easy to do, especially if you have the right tools. I got a quote on getting a handyman to complete this project and they wanted thousands of dollars. I discovered I had most of the tools already and only needed to get a Sawzall to help me. So I found one at a great deal, and got started.
I started with pulling off the 1x3 boards by using the pry bar. After that was off, i used my Sawzall to cut off the nails holding the 2x8 onto the eves. This allowed me to bend the 2x8 outward and use either an angle grinder or Dremel to cut off the remaining nails holding the 2x8 into the roof and pulling it off. I cleaned up any remnants of nails left over and then put together my new boards.
On my boards the 1x3 had to be offset about ½ inch higher than the 2x8 and I secured those in place with 2 inch wood screws. I also used a silicone sealer to seal between the 1x3 and 2x8 and in the screw holes. Then I used a standard outdoor primer by Kilz and after drying, applied our outdoor paint.
I was able to hang these new boards by myself because I used my clamps to hold the boards in place while I set them in exactly the right spot and them tightened the clamps. Then I could use my framing nail gun to secure them. After I did this with all boards, I went back with the silicone sealent and made sure to seal all nail holes and cracks between boards. I painted the eves one last time to cover the silicone and make sure it looked perfect.
This job wasn’t that difficult, but the right tools made all the difference.
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dude the use of the clamps is a genius idea. great work!
Thank you so much!
Thanks, I got to do this tomorrow and the clamp idea is what I needed.
Not bad for home owner quality , but certainly not contractor level. It's smart that you wanted to prime all sides before installation, but you'll save time and have a nicer finish if you brush the corners and use a mini roller for everything else. In your final result, I can clearly see the thick brush marks. (Some contractors dont even prime and they finish with cheap paint).
Others have commented on decreasing the power on your nail gun but at least fill those holes and corner seams with a nice elastomeric sealant for longest lasting results with less visible gaps. Elastomeric sealants currently last the longest (average 45 yr warranty) while alot of silicones dont do well with paint. Latex caulk is crap in most regions, regardless if it's the industry standard. It simply does not have enough flexibility to stretch when wook expands and contracts in different weather (like 30 degree temp changes in one day in Texas). When the caulk doesnt stretch, it cracks, allowing water to get into your joints and seams, and the wood rot process begins.
Using the clamps to hold the facia is smart, Ive seen coworkers use ropes to hold wood when having to work solo too. I imagine the metal clamps you used would slip off easy and be pretty painful hitting someone on the ground.
As for stepping on the nail, I learned early to lean boards on a wall until the nails could be knocked over (helps prevent curious customers from stepping on my nails too), and try to have a clean work space , even a used door laid on some horsies to keep from tripping over hoses or looking for your tools buried in the grass. Lastly, when youre doing the work yourself, Im sure you want it to last as long as possible... Time is the most valuable thing we have. Use good finishing paints like Sherwin Willaims "Super Paint" or Harmony (coupons are available everywhere, sometimes just ask the clerk for a discount and you'll end up paying less than the junk sold in buckets at a hardware store. Home Depot's "Ultra Behr Premium" is a third favorite, and has similar qualities to Sherwin Williams "Super Paint".... rumor has it one of the main master chemists from Sherwin Williams retired about 10-15 years ago, then began working on the HD Ultra Behr paint, so it's good, really good, but still a different chemical make up , but decent if Sherwin isnt an option. Valspar and Glidden products make good contractors furious, and with good reason. When you put Valspar on your home project, it's like running a car key along your cars paint job. Ruined. Ask a contractor and the phrase "bucket of water" is used alot.
One of the best tips I would recommend for a home owner that wants the best advice on a home repair.... get up early and go to Home Depot. Most contractors love sharing tips and giving good advice. Even when we ourselves are looking for that 1/2 inch shut off valve in the plumbing isle. Plenty of times Ive had to wait for paint to be mixed and Ill volunteer to help customers that looked the most visibly confused. Same advice if you want to learn about paint. Dont buy it where they sell lawn mowers. Ask another contractor at a Sherwin Williams. There are usually alot of them "hanging out at the stores in the morning waiting on their paint to be mixed up.... perfect opportunity to ask them for advice... besides, they are the ones actually USING the products.
Keep it up, you'll learn all kinds of tricks.
Thanks for the video! Great idea with the clamps!
Your welcome!
Thanks so much. This is EXACTLY what I needed to see. I was trying to figure out how to hang the boards by myself and the clamps work perfectly!
That makes me so happy! I’m so glad we could help!!! Seriously it means a lot!
Such intelligent use of bar clamps, never have I seen that before, it's genius! Wish I had seen this before my fascia replacement struggle, relied on temporary nailings to line up instead. Quite inspiring, thank you!!
Elle Kirkpatrick thank you for the comment! As for the clamps, I try to do most things myself, and this was the only way I thought of doing it. Hope it at least helps you next time you have to do it! Lol. And thank you for the kind comment! It means alot
@@LaceyFamilyFarm it is a good idea, but if you're ever in a situation where you need to have a long board held up and your clamps won't open wide enough to do the job or you have no clamps with you, you can temporarily screw a piece of wood (in this case) to the bottom of one of the rafters that you will be nailing into at either end to use for something to sit one end on (like a shelf),then lift the other end into position and nail it in. I built a 16' x16' building using that method and it worked great.
@@simonsays3 that’s a great idea! Thanks!
Thank You Sir
Loved The Use Of The Clamps
Your welcome! Glad we could help!
also this was the most informative and to the point video. again great work!
Thanks! We appreciate it
Cool! this is much the way my mid-century is built with metal roof. Got a boost of confidence with this. I'll have to study how my little and big boards go together, but looks just like this. Thanks! Hope foot is okay, Ow!
If they are just like the video, than the small board is slightly higher than the big board. Just take off the bad stuff and you will see what I mean.
Good job man .
Thank you so much! Much appreciated
Brother please put some safety glasses on.
honest question.... why did you switch to nails instead of screws when replacing the boards ?
Just a tip. Adjust your nail gun so it won’t bury the nail so deep. But now that you did, you should fill those holes and paint over them and the job will look a million times better.
Awesome! Thank you much! I didn’t even think of that. Have a great day!
Paint can pro tip : use a punch or nail to put holes around that grove and your paint will drain back into the can 🙆🇺🇲🛠️🇷🇺
That’s awesome!!! Why did I never know this before. Thank you!!
Hello. I am preparing to do this at my home. What length and gauge of nail did you shoot into those rafter tails? My home was built in 1981 and I am thinking they nailed by hand. I am finding they used 3 1/2" finishing nails. I would rather use my framing nail gun. Any comment or advice on what nails to use would be appreciated.
Thank you from the video. My 1" x 3" is faced toward the house. Is your 1 x 3 original faced outside from the house? The 1" x 3" is supported for soffit, and should face inside.
Sorry I’m just getting back to you. My 1x3 is on the outside of the home and is what my flashing attached to.
I’m lazy I would of used those packs of water as saw horses, thanks for the tips.
Haha! That’s a good point! Lol
I have a similar repair to do in Tempe on some apartments. One question. Was the flashing nailed into the 2x8 from the top?
In my case it was still nailed into the top roofing wood. So I never had to replace the flashing. If you had to replace it I would imagine you would put up your wood first and then tuck the flashing up under the shingles and nail it down into the 2x8.
What size/type gauge nail?
I see other videos that say there is supposed to be a space between the flashing and the fascia so that the water tension doesn’t pull water toward the boards. Any comment on not leaving a space?
Not sure honestly. Our wasn’t like that before and we didn’t do that when we replaced it. That might be code in some places I would imagine it.
You don't want that space. Wasps love it, all kinds of bugs will use it. Paint your fascia, let the drip edge do its job. No gap. Looks better too.
Do you use 2
Why the 45 degree cuts, why Not just the overlap?
Thanks just curious
So we did the 45° cuts just because we think it looks better.
From 1:20 to 1:44 you can see that a 2nd fascia board running 90* to the wall of the house is also in need of replacing. That replacement seems much more complicated.... how'd you make that repair?
Why would it be more complicated, it's the same method basically. Just nail it into whatever is behind it
Great Job!!
Thanks!
turn down the air pressure or adjust the depth on your gun they should drive to flush or above and tighten up with smooth face hammer ..and running a string line will keep it straight and lket you have a visual control
Thanks for the tip! I am no expert, just sharing my experience and what I learned so I appreciate it
What 2/8 do you use?
What do you mean?
@@LaceyFamilyFarm what kind of wood? Doug fir? Poplar?
How much did you charge for that job ?
I did it myself. So nothing. lol. If you had to pay someone I would guess 4-500$
cannot believe you did not have safety glasses on. Especially since you were looking up with rotted wood!,
I know… I totally should have… Safety third. Lol. But seriously, you should wear safety glasses
Why replace all that solid wood when you could have just cut out the rotted part and only replaced that?
I thought exactly the same thing. It would have been easier, faster, and cheaper do it that way, but there might have been problems with it we couldn't see.
Sorry I’m just now responding. There was a lot of smaller bits of rot throughout the piece, so it was just easier to do the whole back part.
lol
You have it easy because there's no soffit. Now what do you do?
I'm pretty sure its Enunciated differently from how you said it. Maybe try saying Falacia first.
Ehh… potato, potato…. But you sound like my wife. Lol.
Seriously, yes I did pronounce it incorrectly and you aren’t the first to tell me. Lol
This video does not apply to Florida, lol
Lol! Why is that? I did this in Arizona prior to moving to California
How you pronounce fascia drives me absolutely insane and I know it shouldn’t. It’s pronounce FACE-SHA. Because it faces you… Not whatever you’re saying that sounds like fascist.
Haha. Tomato, tomoto… sorry, I guess I channeled my inner French or something
@@LaceyFamilyFarm lmao
My God, you call that looking good, I am sorry, this would never be acceptable. Good gob, looking good no.
I’m sorry, could you be more plain negative? lol. Seriously dude. Maybe it’s not the best, but I’m just saying ideas. So why don’t you have some common decency and suggest something I could do better instead of just being a jerk and insulting my work.