I just rewired a utility trailer and used the SolderGrip connectors, pretty slick. Slide the wires in both ends hit it with a lighter or torch, it melts the solder and heat shrinks it all in one step. They go up to 10ga. Home depot has them.... SolderGrip heat-shrinkable solder-type connectors and terminals are designed for electrical termination of multiple-wire combinations. They provide a reliable alternative to crimping, welding, or conventional twist-on-style closed-end connectors.
Hell ya, those clips for splicing wire together are bad bad bad! I agree about eTrailer, they are the best resource I have found for trailer parts! Thanks for taking the time to help people out, too bad you have to fix people's poor work.
It's my UNDERSTANDING that The Brake Controller "limits" the amount of Voltage to the Electric Brakes "according to the amount of STOPPING POWER is needed. Full VOLTAGE (12volts) is used to LOCK the brakes in an emergency// Such as; the trailer brakes away from the tow vehicle causing the electric brake-away feature to be activated, it would apply FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE to lock uo the brakes
I got a trailer one of my trucks just doesn't like. It's a 2019 F150 and has the factory brake controller it works with 2 of my enclosed trailer and my RV trailer but my 22ft dovetail electric brakes just don't work. But when I pull the trailer with my 2010 gmc with an aftermarket brake controller they work perfectly. I think this vidjeo will help me sort it out.
For the truck female connector, solder the wires into it!!! Solder doesn't oxidize easily as well use Vaseline on the male and female connectors it keeps water moisture from them. This will also increase the voltage down the line. Less voltage drop. My truck came with the blue wire cut at the right fender well so I had to splice in , I used the gray jacket 2/10# back to the rear, marked all cables/ wires with larger/much white heatshrink written on before shrunk so that reading what a cable/ wire was! for future. I hate trying to remember what something was!!! Where I am is prone for rusting, your area might not be so there is the difference. Prevention is better then having to redo something!!!!!!!!!! They make a duel wall heatshrink the epoxy is inside and shrinks well to the wire/ or jacket of a 4 wire/6 wire/ 7 wire cable. I use a Western Union splice on most things with the duel wall shrunk over them. If you don't have access to the duel wall or stuck for time??? 40+yrs ago I came up with shrinking the ( now called single wall ) onto a wire or cable . Tye wrapping double wrap it , the heat shrink onto the wire/ cable putting on a descent amount of RTV shrinking it acts as a sealing shrinking it with seals between. Don't burn yourself.(don't ask!!) If you want to keep the middle area soft, don't shrink it. I did this on my truck. I have opened wires 40+ yrs later with no corrosion in them , so have figured it worked well. If you can get the marine product "Sika Flex" seals wonderfully better then RTV! One thing I would have done is use the red heater hose enough to go back up both sides and secured of the I Beam and seal stones/ sand out with silicone . I would have brought all of the wires forward to the goose neck from each of the lights with the gray jacket 2/14# marking as mentioned before for reference then soldered them either to ring ends or into a suitably sized junction box. 6"X8"X 8" They do make plastic connectors called strain Relief connectors into junction boxes. Or highway truck trailer shops have the block wiring for there trailers to use easier and cheaper. This would have allowed to do a short fold of jacket wire back for doing light replacement later when needed. Yes I hate fixing things, better to prevent problems.
I ordered awg 10 gauge wire for the electric brakes I installed on my boat trailer but then noticed that the wires at the electro-magnet in the brake units were about the gauge of a round toothpick so the larger wire wouldn't be any help in a break-away situation where the wires will overheat for the allotted time the breakaway unit keeps the brakes locked (15 minutes.) Those skinny toothpick wires will probably melt if I hold my brake pedal down too long. I trust e-trailer though so I'm hoping they know what they sold me. The 14 gauge I installed will provide more than the skinny wires can carry, especially over their short 15 foot run.
Bigger axles have bigger magnets with bigger wires and when you have multiple brake magnets connected together the supply wire needs to be bigger than the wires coming from the individual magnets because you are powering 4-6 magnets on most heavy trailers. I'm surprised a boat trailer would even have electric brakes, usually they are hydraulic surge. I don't think electric brakes will last long in the water.
@@LifeWithChase Trailer is 31 years old and it's surge brakes rusted away in salt water use in the Gulf of Mexico. The original owner replaced the surge tow-hitch connector/hydraulic tongue with plain hitch. I didn't want to spend more than $100 on brakes ($400), hitch ($500), controller ($? I don't recall how much) and breakaway kit. The hydraulic lines were completely rusted and in pieces = more $. I do plan to hose everything down real good every time I'm in saltwater. The trailer only had brakes on one axle of two. The boat is only 23' long. The 14 gauge wire I used is 10 times the size of the wires on the electro-magnet.
There are two wires coming from the magnet for the brakes on a brake axle is one wire ground and one wire positive like ground and positive on a battery
I cheated, used 12 volt outdoor lighting wire for mine. Worked on all three trailers. Also I had to turn up the settings on my brake controller like yours to high on my triple axle.
I'm completely rewiring a trailer and running a 10ga ground and either a 10 or 12 ga wire to the trailer brake. Just to make sure I got this right I need to run my ground and my electric brake to each axle? I'm running everything in liquid tight flex pipe and am putting a junction over each axle with those two wires running down to each brake. Obviously I want my other lights and stuff to work but this is what is truly important to me because I'm going to be pulling a pretty good load down some fairly steep grades and I'm not interested in testing the high speed cornering ability of my truck and triple axle trailer :) If anyone can confirm I am correct that would be awesome.
Sounds like you got it figured out. Junction above each axle with a ground and electric brake wire to each brake. Be sure to test it out before you hit the road and thanks for watching...
My problem was the wire inside the axle running from side to side , the coating was worn off and causeed a grounding fault . Not all the time but often enough . So i ran separate wires down both left and right side to the brakes instead of thru the axle . Solved my problem . Just sayin
LOL killing me man. Good video though. If you check voltage and Ohm on a 14 straight, on a 10 straight, and then check 14 hooked to a 10. you will see what I mean. aint sayin it won't work but it it aint gonna be the same. Mine set up factory from junction left and right have their own wires on the dual brakes.. the main wire runs to each side from junction, then there is the branch to brakes " on each side" not all four brakes on the same wire Or left side on heavy gauge and smaller gauge after that to the right side. I was checking videos though to see if all pro built trailers are the same or whatever. seems like the norm is probably not the common sense way really. anyway. LOL I dont have to pay for my wiring this time so I am going to do it up gnarly as can be and call it done. The wires on mine are run thru some welded on condit and it appears to me that the insides of that conduit must be rough. ate thru the wiring somehow, when I plug that trailer into the truck I get all kind of errors on the dash and the lights and brakes are not working. serious shorts on that trailer. the awesome part is ,got the trailer dirty a$$ cheap because of it. LOL
I hate those scotch lock connectors....they damage the wires as you squeeze to install them. i never understood why trailer manufacturers skimped out with such a light wire for the brakes....14 gauge is only good for 15 amps....even less when you consider the length and those horrible connections. each one of those 10k axles can pull over 8 amps....up to 16 amps for the 2 axles. i like the pre molded plug and 7 pin harness. however, i find the color color is never right.
What does it mean when the brake control doesn’t work the brakes. But the trailer works off the brake pedal. I have two other trailers that work off that trailer brake controller.
Was 9.5V enough to make the your brakes work correctly? I've got about 10.5 at my connector and 8.5 at the brake magnets. This is on a 32' gooseneck with dual 10K dexter axles. The brakes will barely lock up empty on loose gravel. Shoes have virtually no wear but the trailer tires were worn out so I'm thinking they never worked.
They seem to be pretty decent. Probably not as good as it could be if the truck had bigger wire also but way better than they ever were since the trailer left the factory I bet.
@@LifeWithChase I ordered enough 10g wire to do the trailer. The wiring diagram says everything is 12g on the truck. I rewired the trailer connector on the truck and may have not used good enough wire -will check that too. I'm actually surprised my 8.5v at the magnets won't engage the brakes. That's about 2/3 of full battery power so you'd think it would be about 2/3 full brake power. Thanks for the reply and vid.
you had me until you dropped the wire under the 3 steel cross members. Should have gone through or over or something. I'd catch that wire on something and those sharp bends will bite you down the road.
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I just rewired a utility trailer and used the SolderGrip connectors, pretty slick. Slide the wires in both ends hit it with a lighter or torch, it melts the solder and heat shrinks it all in one step. They go up to 10ga.
Home depot has them.... SolderGrip heat-shrinkable solder-type connectors and terminals are designed for electrical termination of multiple-wire combinations. They provide a reliable alternative to crimping, welding, or conventional twist-on-style closed-end connectors.
Hell ya, those clips for splicing wire together are bad bad bad! I agree about eTrailer, they are the best resource I have found for trailer parts! Thanks for taking the time to help people out, too bad you have to fix people's poor work.
I wish you would have shown where you hooked the brake white and black wires to on the plug end
It's my UNDERSTANDING that The Brake Controller "limits" the amount of Voltage to the Electric Brakes "according to the amount of STOPPING POWER is needed. Full VOLTAGE (12volts) is used to LOCK the brakes in an emergency// Such as; the trailer brakes away from the tow vehicle causing the electric brake-away feature to be activated, it would apply FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE to lock uo the brakes
Agreed, but there should never be voltage drop on the wire itself which is what he had from the trailer connector to the brakes.
Good video, use that old 14 AWG brake feed wire as a ground wire near your brakes and also ground by your 5th wheel contact.
I got a trailer one of my trucks just doesn't like. It's a 2019 F150 and has the factory brake controller it works with 2 of my enclosed trailer and my RV trailer but my 22ft dovetail electric brakes just don't work. But when I pull the trailer with my 2010 gmc with an aftermarket brake controller they work perfectly. I think this vidjeo will help me sort it out.
Thanks for your video very good details under the trailer to connect to electric brake from axle
For the truck female connector, solder the wires into it!!! Solder doesn't oxidize easily as well use Vaseline on the male and female connectors it keeps water moisture from them. This will also increase the voltage down the line. Less voltage drop. My truck came with the blue wire cut at the right fender well so I had to splice in , I used the gray jacket 2/10# back to the rear, marked all cables/ wires with larger/much white heatshrink written on before shrunk so that reading what a cable/ wire was! for future. I hate trying to remember what something was!!! Where I am is prone for rusting, your area might not be so there is the difference. Prevention is better then having to redo something!!!!!!!!!! They make a duel wall heatshrink the epoxy is inside and shrinks well to the wire/ or jacket of a 4 wire/6 wire/ 7 wire cable. I use a Western Union splice on most things with the duel wall shrunk over them. If you don't have access to the duel wall or stuck for time??? 40+yrs ago I came up with shrinking the ( now called single wall ) onto a wire or cable . Tye wrapping double wrap it , the heat shrink onto the wire/ cable putting on a descent amount of RTV shrinking it acts as a sealing shrinking it with seals between. Don't burn yourself.(don't ask!!) If you want to keep the middle area soft, don't shrink it. I did this on my truck. I have opened wires 40+ yrs later with no corrosion in them , so have figured it worked well. If you can get the marine product "Sika Flex" seals wonderfully better then RTV!
One thing I would have done is use the red heater hose enough to go back up both sides and secured of the I Beam and seal stones/ sand out with silicone .
I would have brought all of the wires forward to the goose neck from each of the lights with the gray jacket 2/14# marking as mentioned before for reference then soldered them either to ring ends or into a suitably sized junction box. 6"X8"X 8" They do make plastic connectors called strain Relief connectors into junction boxes. Or highway truck trailer shops have the block wiring for there trailers to use easier and cheaper. This would have allowed to do a short fold of jacket wire back for doing light replacement later when needed. Yes I hate fixing things, better to prevent problems.
I definitely am gonna go check this out having a lot of trouble with my trailer brakes not working, right
Nice and clean install. Them skotch loc taps should be banned , just junks is a nice word eh :)
yes they should be, especially on electric brakes, but somehow it's perfectly fine.
I ordered awg 10 gauge wire for the electric brakes I installed on my boat trailer but then noticed that the wires at the electro-magnet in the brake units were about the gauge of a round toothpick so the larger wire wouldn't be any help in a break-away situation where the wires will overheat for the allotted time the breakaway unit keeps the brakes locked (15 minutes.) Those skinny toothpick wires will probably melt if I hold my brake pedal down too long. I trust e-trailer though so I'm hoping they know what they sold me. The 14 gauge I installed will provide more than the skinny wires can carry, especially over their short 15 foot run.
Bigger axles have bigger magnets with bigger wires and when you have multiple brake magnets connected together the supply wire needs to be bigger than the wires coming from the individual magnets because you are powering 4-6 magnets on most heavy trailers. I'm surprised a boat trailer would even have electric brakes, usually they are hydraulic surge. I don't think electric brakes will last long in the water.
@@LifeWithChase Trailer is 31 years old and it's surge brakes rusted away in salt water use in the Gulf of Mexico. The original owner replaced the surge tow-hitch connector/hydraulic tongue with plain hitch. I didn't want to spend more than $100 on brakes ($400), hitch ($500), controller ($? I don't recall how much) and breakaway kit. The hydraulic lines were completely rusted and in pieces = more $. I do plan to hose everything down real good every time I'm in saltwater. The trailer only had brakes on one axle of two. The boat is only 23' long. The 14 gauge wire I used is 10 times the size of the wires on the electro-magnet.
There are two wires coming from the magnet for the brakes on a brake axle is one wire ground and one wire positive like ground and positive on a battery
I cheated, used 12 volt outdoor lighting wire for mine. Worked on all three trailers. Also I had to turn up the settings on my brake controller like yours to high on my triple axle.
pretty similar stuff I think
I'm completely rewiring a trailer and running a 10ga ground and either a 10 or 12 ga wire to the trailer brake. Just to make sure I got this right I need to run my ground and my electric brake to each axle? I'm running everything in liquid tight flex pipe and am putting a junction over each axle with those two wires running down to each brake. Obviously I want my other lights and stuff to work but this is what is truly important to me because I'm going to be pulling a pretty good load down some fairly steep grades and I'm not interested in testing the high speed cornering ability of my truck and triple axle trailer :) If anyone can confirm I am correct that would be awesome.
Sounds like you got it figured out. Junction above each axle with a ground and electric brake wire to each brake. Be sure to test it out before you hit the road and thanks for watching...
Instead of just saying you got the wire at etrailer, why not add a description and give the part number? Maybe even a link.
My problem was the wire inside the axle running from side to side , the coating was worn off and causeed a grounding fault . Not all the time but often enough . So i ran separate wires down both left and right side to the brakes instead of thru the axle . Solved my problem . Just sayin
I've done that before as well...
LOL killing me man. Good video though. If you check voltage and Ohm on a 14 straight, on a 10 straight, and then check 14 hooked to a 10. you will see what I mean. aint sayin it won't work but it it aint gonna be the same.
Mine set up factory from junction left and right have their own wires on the dual brakes.. the main wire runs to each side from junction, then there is the branch to brakes " on each side" not all four brakes on the same wire Or left side on heavy gauge and smaller gauge after that to the right side. I was checking videos though to see if all pro built trailers are the same or whatever. seems like the norm is probably not the common sense way really. anyway. LOL I dont have to pay for my wiring this time so I am going to do it up gnarly as can be and call it done. The wires on mine are run thru some welded on condit and it appears to me that the insides of that conduit must be rough. ate thru the wiring somehow, when I plug that trailer into the truck I get all kind of errors on the dash and the lights and brakes are not working. serious shorts on that trailer. the awesome part is ,got the trailer dirty a$$ cheap because of it. LOL
I hate those scotch lock connectors....they damage the wires as you squeeze to install them. i never understood why trailer manufacturers skimped out with such a light wire for the brakes....14 gauge is only good for 15 amps....even less when you consider the length and those horrible connections. each one of those 10k axles can pull over 8 amps....up to 16 amps for the 2 axles. i like the pre molded plug and 7 pin harness. however, i find the color color is never right.
Doesn't make much since Dot worried about an oil leak but scotch locks on your electric brakes from the factor none the less is perfectly fine😀
How about if i wire each pair of wheels seperatly ?,,, 1 14 ga. wire for each side ??
I guess that would work but would be a lot of additional wires to run.
@@LifeWithChase I would rather run extra wires,,,And be safe,,,Then not and be unsure
@@LifeWithChase How do you figure "A Lot" of additional wires ???? It`s 2 wires power and neutral,,, That`s not Alot
@@mrcoz1764 I was thinking you meant to each wheel, on a 4 or 6 wheel trailer would have been a lot.... I see now you said per side...
Where are you located
What does it mean when the brake control doesn’t work the brakes. But the trailer works off the brake pedal. I have two other trailers that work off that trailer brake controller.
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Where does the black wire go..?
Black wire is 12v power. It would go to a battery on the trailer to keep it charged.
Was 9.5V enough to make the your brakes work correctly?
I've got about 10.5 at my connector and 8.5 at the brake magnets. This is on a 32' gooseneck with dual 10K dexter axles. The brakes will barely lock up empty on loose gravel. Shoes have virtually no wear but the trailer tires were worn out so I'm thinking they never worked.
They seem to be pretty decent. Probably not as good as it could be if the truck had bigger wire also but way better than they ever were since the trailer left the factory I bet.
@@LifeWithChase I ordered enough 10g wire to do the trailer. The wiring diagram says everything is 12g on the truck. I rewired the trailer connector on the truck and may have not used good enough wire -will check that too.
I'm actually surprised my 8.5v at the magnets won't engage the brakes. That's about 2/3 of full battery power so you'd think it would be about 2/3 full brake power.
Thanks for the reply and vid.
you had me until you dropped the wire under the 3 steel cross members. Should have gone through or over or something. I'd catch that wire on something and those sharp bends will bite you down the road.
Etrailer is the best!
Amazing