Really excellent tutorial, I like the idea of using the coil a lot. (I could see it being especially good for making kids toys. A circular profile would make the parts more hand-friendly, and very coarse threads with loose tolerances would make them easy for small hands to get them started. As a side note, there’s a very good engineering reason for putting a chamfer on the OD of the female threads. Sharp inside corners like that are “stress risers” or “stress concentrators”, concentrating stress at the vertex of the angle. You could think of it as a kind of lever action, when you tighten the bolt, the point where the stress transitions from a compressive force to a tensile one is kind of like the load on a second class lever, with the effort being the force on the threads and the fulcrum being the material in the body of the nut. (The “fulcrum” is distributed because it’s a continuous material, but the general action is described because the material is elastic.) Without making too big a deal of it, the less of an angle at the point at which the tensile force can start being borne by the body of the nut, the less the stress concentration. So a chamfer is something you absolutely want to do if the threads are going to see any kind of loads. The same thing applies to the ID of the threads on the bolt as well. Thanks for such a great tutorial, I’ve bookmarked it for the next time I need threads on a 3D printed part!👍
A circular profile can not be 3d printed and create a good surface that wont trap dirt and debris tho, the overhang angle of the circular thread is 90 degrees at the top and bottom of the circles.
Fusion no longer adds tolerances to threads automatically. Machinist and CAM shops complained that they no longer met specs, so Autodesk removed the auto tolerance feature. Apparently they have a lot more paying machinist and CAM users than they have paying hobbies to who do 3D printing.
@@tha_factory_of_fun Thanks for replay, Im looking for 3 start thread I found on google, 1 thread & 2 thread, 4 thread and 6 thread but the triple one I couldn't find it
Way too long tutorial to make a thread imo in shapr3d it is very easy to make a thread with a profile using the revolve tool since it has a linear movement function/option you just define pitch with the linear and rotation with the revolve degrees. It can be as fast as making any profile thread in like a minute basically or less. I have been finding fusion 360 much more troublesome to learn but it also has the bugs like shapr3d but more I would say and actions you want to do are locked behind more knowledge that takes more trying the software to understand. Even something as simple as moving an object does not work for me sometimes and I still dont know why. There are like 10 options for moving an object which also makes it kind of confusing, like they did not need to include the rotate option separately in the movement of objects or sketches it would have been enough to just have the handles on the screen for moving rotating and moving the pivot and so on.
Are you saying there is too much overhang? Not true, as long as any edge angle is no more than (roughly) 45 degrees perpendicular to the build plate, it will print fine as these did.
@@GeorgeGraves Im going to help you out here. There are plenty of 45 degree angles in both models However, there are small regions that are not 45 in the rounded example. So why does this still print perfectly fine? It is because 3D printers have the magic ability to bridge my friend. I think in order to not mislead folks we would have to get into overhangs, nozzle sizes and bridges. Again these models are perfectly fine. Thanks for the comments
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I have been struggling with threads. I think your video is going to be a great help. Thank you, subscribed.
Glad it was helpful! Let me know if ow If this is anything you wish I covered or any suggestions for another video
Really excellent tutorial, I like the idea of using the coil a lot. (I could see it being especially good for making kids toys. A circular profile would make the parts more hand-friendly, and very coarse threads with loose tolerances would make them easy for small hands to get them started.
As a side note, there’s a very good engineering reason for putting a chamfer on the OD of the female threads. Sharp inside corners like that are “stress risers” or “stress concentrators”, concentrating stress at the vertex of the angle. You could think of it as a kind of lever action, when you tighten the bolt, the point where the stress transitions from a compressive force to a tensile one is kind of like the load on a second class lever, with the effort being the force on the threads and the fulcrum being the material in the body of the nut. (The “fulcrum” is distributed because it’s a continuous material, but the general action is described because the material is elastic.)
Without making too big a deal of it, the less of an angle at the point at which the tensile force can start being borne by the body of the nut, the less the stress concentration. So a chamfer is something you absolutely want to do if the threads are going to see any kind of loads. The same thing applies to the ID of the threads on the bolt as well.
Thanks for such a great tutorial, I’ve bookmarked it for the next time I need threads on a 3D printed part!👍
A circular profile can not be 3d printed and create a good surface that wont trap dirt and debris tho, the overhang angle of the circular thread is 90 degrees at the top and bottom of the circles.
Fusion no longer adds tolerances to threads automatically. Machinist and CAM shops complained that they no longer met specs, so Autodesk removed the auto tolerance feature. Apparently they have a lot more paying machinist and CAM users than they have paying hobbies to who do 3D printing.
Can I find the STL for 3 start thread ?
Hi there, which model are you referring to? Sorry, I am a little confused. Either way I can probably share the STL
@@tha_factory_of_fun Thanks for replay, Im looking for 3 start thread
I found on google, 1 thread & 2 thread, 4 thread and 6 thread but the triple one I couldn't find it
Way too long tutorial to make a thread imo in shapr3d it is very easy to make a thread with a profile using the revolve tool since it has a linear movement function/option you just define pitch with the linear and rotation with the revolve degrees. It can be as fast as making any profile thread in like a minute basically or less.
I have been finding fusion 360 much more troublesome to learn but it also has the bugs like shapr3d but more I would say and actions you want to do are locked behind more knowledge that takes more trying the software to understand. Even something as simple as moving an object does not work for me sometimes and I still dont know why.
There are like 10 options for moving an object which also makes it kind of confusing, like they did not need to include the rotate option separately in the movement of objects or sketches it would have been enough to just have the handles on the screen for moving rotating and moving the pivot and so on.
no GOOD - too much overhand at 90 degrees.
Are you saying there is too much overhang? Not true, as long as any edge angle is no more than (roughly) 45 degrees perpendicular to the build plate, it will print fine as these did.
@@tha_factory_of_fun That's not a 45 bro.
@@GeorgeGraves Im going to help you out here. There are plenty of 45 degree angles in both models However, there are small regions that are not 45 in the rounded example. So why does this still print perfectly fine? It is because 3D printers have the magic ability to bridge my friend. I think in order to not mislead folks we would have to get into overhangs, nozzle sizes and bridges. Again these models are perfectly fine. Thanks for the comments
Maybe consider designing a model that articulates a solution to your concern and share it with the community? That would be great!
@@tha_factory_of_fun Your attempt as "engagement" is cringe.