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Tapping A Seep - Spring Water Collection System Install
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- Опубликовано: 8 мар 2021
- This video details the planning and installation of a spring water collection system installed in Huasna Valley just outside Arroyo Grande, CA. The water was emerging from a fragile, broad sand-seam seep, necessitating a unique collection and filter package design. The system is now gathering 2,300 gallons per day of high quality water for the multi-generational family stewarding the ranch.
A huge thank you to the entire family - we had a great time working with you guys on this project! Thank you for getting muddy with us!
Also a huge gratitude to @engineer775 for all of his excellent educational content on springs, spring boxes and spring development - well worth diving into if you're looking to do a project like this yourself!
Spring Box used in this video: practicalprepp...
Bamboo Rhizome Barrier source: lewisbamboo.co...
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Of all the water collection systems g this kind, yours is the most clear. You communicate well. Thank you!
YES, I too love to see 'educated' folks. It's refreshing to listen to and also great to learn from.
When I see the thumbnail, I thought it was just one of the boring slide shows. I'm glad you're showing on it's place.
Loved sitting here following your vision and final design. I'm in the process of photo/technical documenting local spring houses, the soil and their varied construction styles in the Southeastern Pennsylvania area. Wish me luck, I'll need it.
Hi J B, that sounds like an awesome project - please share it back whenever you are complete, I'd love to check that out!
Will do. Copy that.
Great video thanks for sharing . If I was in your area I’d definitely use you guys 😀👍👍
I like the way you enjoy your work :) good luck
Such a great video. Appreciate your work. Wish I could get you out to our farm.
Excellent work. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you Laura :)
Well done!
Good work!
Awesome
Excellent video!!! I have the identical situation however I live in OH and need to burry all the lines and tanks due to freezing temperatures etc. Very helpful video. Any videos on purifying the water for drinking?
Hi again Barry, we don't have any purification videos ourselves, but I would recommend looking into a slow-sand charcoal filtration system. DIY instructions for systems of various sizes are available for free from Aqueous Solutions: www.aqsolutions.org/charcoal-biochar-water-treatment/ . These systems are easy to DIY and don't involve expensive or irreplaceable components - perfect for low-tech yet very effective off-grid water filtration/purification system.
Awesome!
American HEROES. Patriots and good citizens of Earth want and deserve clean water! God bless.
Really loved seeing your thought process and installation! Do you think it would be possible to do a follow up video?
Can't now unfortunately - the owners we worked for have since sold the property.
Wow! Sometimes the internet gives you exactly what you need! Glad I found this video and thankful that you made it so detailed!! I'm an architect and will be restoring a multi-generational farm/ranch in northwestern WV and have several springs that I need to excavate and decide how to best capture the water. I'm taking copious notes here!
New sub and I just found the channel but as this is somewhat out of my wheelhouse - what other resources/books/articles are out there for work and topics like this?
We have plenty heavy equipment and always the old faithful hickory handled backhoe ;)
Thanks again for the video and I look forward to following your channel!
أنا أبحث عن عمل وبيسعي العمل في مثل هذا وفي الفلاحة حبا لطبيعة
Good video. Good commentary. A few things i would recommend is watch what fabric you put in the seep collection. It will eventually fill up and need replaced. Could be a year could be 3 weeks. And i heard you say cow s frequently come through your seep field. Thats a no no in water collection. Just thoughts for further review . Cows pee is not good for a seep area.
feces is worse than urine.
but the water could be used for irrigation or for animals.
Thank you so much for the technical knowledge I've been messing with the springs we have on our property.The county will let us by pass a well...$500,000 /180,00 with a system like yours producing 1 gallon a min will pass the requirment.
Wtf
Did you use pvc pipe? Doesn’t it become brittle when exposed to the elements? Especially sunlight?
Ya know how you avoid turning area into a mud slide DO IT BY HAND You could have chuted rock down from dry sides That is such a minimal amount of work a man should be able to dig it and backfill in a few days. Now I'd never have built such a small collection area, that's really a hail marry lets hope nothing happens. I'd have made it 4x as big so 50 yrs from now a flood and every tree toppling in it's still making 2,000 gallons a day. As to the drain top of the hill. That'll silt up and fill with grass in 5 yrs. You need something that will kick off silt with enough velocity to keep it moving until out of range of the spring. Think adding 2 to 3 foot high bolders along the spring side of trench. and while you want silt to move, you need to stabilize the cut trench until it grasses over At the least drop a hay bale every 10 or 20 feet angled to shoot water and silt back over the field.
Thank you so much for this! Would you be able to give a ballpark of what the client paid for that?
Bet that bamboo ran out of control
Curious about what this project looks like currently; it seemed like there was a lot of mud that would eventually flow down the hill, endangering the bamboo rhizome barrier.
Yeah, the mud was and is a major issue - in the future I'd definitely wrap the filter package in a geotextile. We did get to follow up on site about 4 months later and the bamboo rhizome barrier was still looking good then.
What do you do about wintertime and possible PVC pipe freezing and cracking?
I've done several similar installs and I'd say that this should be a problem. Unless it is very cold and there is no flow... Generally as long as water is moving, then moderate freezing is not a problem. Of course I'd bury as much of the PVC as possible, for UV reasons too.
How thick was the bamboo rhizome & how did you “bond” the two together to double the thickness? Some type of adhesive I’m sure? Thxs
Crazy to have a source of pristine water then run it through tons of plastic introducing all kinds of microplastic pollution and other chemicals
Is there a particular thickness of the rhizome material you use to make your damns? Thanks
This is really a great concept…..suggest a cover of fake grass to keep animals from defecating or a barrier cloth
Have something similar but source is from hard rock…
Unsupported warping non-UV protected PVC pipe on a sliding slope? What am I missing here where any of that is a good idea? Particularly if there's also freezing involved. Please elucidate us.
Can you eliminate spring box? I live in cold climate. Pipes need to be 4 to 5 feet deep. Spring boxes I have seen seam to shallow. Thank you
VERY nicely done. I've done several collection systems myself and have my own methods, but yours are very well done. One question, you mention downstream filtration. What were you considering or did you do? I've not had much luck with any filtration. Constant changing of filters, even sand filters, just didn't work. Finally I've gone to settling tanks. I let the water flow in on the bottom of a 300 gallon tank, and the exit is at the top of the tank. I generally do 2 tanks in a row that way and the result is that pretty much all of the sediment settles out in the first tank. Every 5 years or so, I just drain that tank. This method solved my constant problem of filtration being overloaded. Pumps hate silty water. I burned up a pump or two. Now I use submersible pumps, (no problem with freezing then) and I've had a Lorrentz in for more than 15 years in a Poly tank. Seems to be as good as it was when I put it in 15 ago. (course now it will probably go bad lol, but I will consider that great and just install a new pump)
Try a spring box
What kind of professional does this complicated looking work, from finding where the water starts and channeling it? I think it’s beyond landscape company knowledge. Engineers? Geologist?
Hi Yogimind, I don't really know myself. We've read a lot of papers and done a lot of research into the various morphology of different spring types, and there are certainly elements of hydrogeology worked in there. I don't even know if a professional "springtapper" is a thing.
Are permits required to build a spring collection system?
Hi Tricia, we haven't run into anything like that out here, nor have I heard of any. If there is a "blue line waterway" that originates at a spring then permits would I'm sure be involved, but we haven't seen anything like that in our work.
what type of mesh screen do you recommend
we utilized a 90% shadecloth
Very interesting project,
Just one question, is that a spring, or stream?
It is a spring - the area show in the video is the "spring head" even though its somewhat spread out - hence we term it a seep when there is no obviously identifiable point source.
@@7thGenerationDesign
Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions,
Since the spring is in your property do you still need to get a permit from the county, or state to use the water,
Thanks in advance.
I too have a spring in my property, I want to start a water system like yours.
@@enchantedmountain5354 I am not sure about permitting - if the spring is in an already acknowledged "blue line creek/drainage" then you would have to get some permitting to tap it. However, finding out what is "blue line" and what is not is largely impossible without calling a CDFW office (assuming you are in California) and having them out to your land to assess - and once you do that you can't go back. If your spring's flow rate is on the small side (~ less than 10 gal per minute - which is actually quite large for SoCal) I wouldn't imagine there would be any permitting required.
Why bring unwanted and unnecessary regulation?
Use at your own risk after due diligence
The very 1st step is to fence off from range animals…@@7thGenerationDesign
Aloha Casey & Wes!
I appreciated the design images, and the video in it's entirety. In the upcoming week, I will be developing a smaller seep on a slope at over 8,000' in Colorado, using a food grade IBC tote (cut open) for my collection wall, and have a few questions. 1) Is it greatly beneficial to have the differently sized aggregate, or could I simply use gravel exclusively? 2) Is there any concern about water seeping DOWN into the ground, and passing under the collection wall - is there any need to put an impermeable floor in the collection area? 3) Will the combined weight of the top soil, and stone aggregate sink into already super-hydrated substrate - would a layer of logs help disperse the weight of the aggregate and mitigate that concern?
Thank you.
Hi Byron,
Those are great questions, we faced similar challenges with this install. I'll do my best to answer.
1) Our reasoning for the differently sized aggregate was due to the entire seep being made of a super fine sand. If we had just make out filter package out of gravel, the sand would have ultimately (and probably quite quickly) clogged the collection piping. We had the multiple different sizes of aggregate, on down to construction sand being the final layer, in order to make a progressively better draining filter package that would keep the native sand in place and out of the pipes.
2) Yes, water seeping underneath the collection wall is a big concern in most cases, and certainly in ours. It wasn't shown in the video but the entire collection wall was set into a 6" deep ridge of puddled clay that we packed in immediately prior to setting the wall in. Some seepage is still occurring due to it being located atop fine sand, however no material is moving, which is the important part. We did put down an extra sheet of the HDPE bamboo rhizome barrier underneath the filter package with the idea of spreading out the weight - time will tell if that was a good idea!
3) Logs might initially help to spread the weight of your filter package materials, however over time they will degrade, and eventually fail. If they do end up performing a necessary support function their ultimate failure would be best to avoid in my opinion. If you are going to having something underneath the filter package, I'd personally go with something that won't biodegrade, like the HDPE rhizome barrier we used, or perhaps a cut section of one of your IBC walls. However you know your situation best - I don't know the context so that recommendation might not be right for you.
Best of luck with your project!
@@7thGenerationDesign Thank you so much for your detailed advice. Next question...
4) What diameter poly pipe? My spring is located 400 feet in elevation above my cabin, and will have a 2,000 foot run of pipe. In May, the spring is producing half a gallon per minute. I was first thinking that I would go with a 1" diameter pipe, but am now wondering if that is excessive for the spring's modest flow rate.
In gratitude,
Byron
@@byrong6953 Yes, you could get away with smaller diameter pipe and save some money there. 1/2" would be ample to hand that level of flow, however you may want to go with 500' coils of HDPE water line to make the install easier - and I think those are only available down to 3/4" (at least that we've come across_ - for reference: hdpesupply.com/black-hdpe-polyethylene-pipe/
@@7thGenerationDesign
Can you please provide me with a link to the clay you used/recommend for sealing the bottom of the collection wall/dam?
Does this pipe look acceptable?:
www.homedepot.com/p/Advanced-Drainage-Systems-3-4-in-x-500-ft-100-psi-NSF-Poly-Pipe-X2-75100500/205909074?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-205909058-_-205909074-_-N
The pipe will be running 2,000' over a forest floor where there is a thick understory, so a more pliable pipe will make a huge job slightly less of a challenge. I will interrupt the run at least once with a sediment bucket that will also serve to halve the head pressure.
Due to this remote forest application, I have yet to come up with a way to bury the pipe, and so am planning on leaving it above ground for the majority of it's run, probably trying to pull a little detritus/topsoil over it where possible to protect it from the sun, bears, etc. I'm hoping that it won't freeze in Winter, as long as there is water constantly flowing, and so I will put the overflow close to the cabin, and only bury the pipe from the overflow on to the cabin.
If you have any suggestions, or alternative ideas, I would be most grateful to hear them.
Thanks again,
-Byron (Mni Wiconi)
@@byrong6953 We didn't actually purchase clay, we harvested it locally. You can purchase bentonite online, however it is very expensive and shipping is doubly so.
That pipe looks like it should do the trick. You can use PVC insert fitting to connect segments - similar to these :www.supplyhouse.com/PVC-Insert-Fittings-20120000 - that will save you a bunch of money over using Sharkbite or other more expensive press-fit fittings. Use standard adjustable collars to secure them.
As far as additional suggestions, I'm was glad to hear you mention a sediment bucket / spring box to help with clean out and pressure relief. You may also want to consider installing vacuum breaks around any dips and rises - ideally you'll keep it at a constant downhill grade the whole time, but I'm sure over 2,000 feet you'll have some grade changes - just don't have any that actually reverse the grade (go from negative to positive) - if there is sediment in the line, this is where it can fall out of suspension and clog things up, or where air in the line will get stuck and create a vacuum.
Sounds like a great project Byron, we hope it goes well!
Poison IVY
Great subject matter!!..Question not related to the video content though....Why is every other sentence ending at a high drawn out tone like a question is being asked.....I mostly hear it from younger women...or is that a california accent.
What kinda numbskull is driving an excavator rite up through a deep. Then throw a road rite above it? Hope you guys could save this one.