Not seeing much input on your basin project so I'll put it here (I don't have an account established at that other site yet). There are a few things that speed up concrete decay. The moss/algae growing on the side walls is one of them as they tend to leach out minerals as a growing medium. Ivy vines do similar damage to masonry grout. Fungi & microbe colonies also damage. The concrete was not likely sealed before it went into water service. Water from both sides of the cement walls are reducing it's useful life and inviting vegetation to a feast. Sludge is bad for concrete. Hard water/low oxygen/ PH extremes from the water source may also contribute to some chemical interaction going on. Not sure of the age of the pour, but the probability this has survived 2 wildfires (melted pipes) means it has possibly lost about half it's strength from exposure to wildfires. Engineers say 750f or more will do that. I'm not an engineer, but I believe them. I'd start by reducing the elevation of dirt on all sides contributing to your muck collection system. Divert soil erosion away. Horizontal pressure reduced, the heaving of winter is also reduced, averting cave ins. Once mucked out clean the general area of cement with a soak spray of 1:10 bleach (I know you don't like that) or straight vinegar (less effective than bleach) to arrest the leaching. Follow through with the pressure washer after an hour or so. Large hole patches you have the option of quick setting cement- many varieties. Assuming the basin is still partially submerged you'll have to go with things along the line of DRYLOK Fast Plug Hydraulic Cement, Quikrete Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement, or Hydroplug hydraulic cement. Some variety of these would be available at a plumbers store. Forewarning- as soon as they activate they are forming their final shape. Wear chemical gloves, work fast, in small batches, and don't bother trying to make it pretty or match up with existing concrete. It won't look pretty no matter what you do. I mix it with disposable things. Using a mortar trowel it won't come off clean. Use a piece of plastic shaped like a trowel as disposable will preserve your trowel. It won't set ideally when temps are cold. Perhaps you can tell I hate the stuff but know it's a common option used by professional plumbers because it works in minutes and they're usually responding to mitigate water damage. Before quick cement there were flexible patches that can work for years being the caulk that holds wooden ships together. A traditional sailors remedy called oakum which I'm more comfortable working with as they are very forgiving toward amateurs. Made of hemp/jute, impregnated with all kinds of things. Sometimes pine tar, sometimes resins, sometimes a mix that includes bentonite (a clay), waxes or linseed oil. The bentonite version is still sold in American box stores, preferred because it expands once wet. If you research out ingredients you can make custom batches on site. The ingredients are often primitive & easy to replicate. When in doubt swing by a marine repair shop (Porto?), see what oakum they have for sale or if they know anyone still selling the stuff for wooden boats. Costs for ready made is about $10/lb. in USD. It works on everything (wood, plastic, glass panes, metal) not exposed to heat like chimney flues. Discard the old pipe, clean inner diameter of cement bore hole, get a new pipe leading to wherever you want the overflow to go, wrap that pipe tightly with oakum where it interfaces with the concrete. If it leaks it's because you didn't use enough of it, pack it in tighter. When you need it out of your way today or 10 years from now, you just pull it out with pliers. Good for waterproof seams, cracks, and holes. Centuries old it's still used for emergency repairs on sinking boats. Next year you're going to have to decide how to seal the cement surfaces after they get cleaned. Resurfacing with fresh concrete only winds up palling off in winter. The coatings for swimming pools are often containing an anti algae/anti fouling element you might not want in a drinking supply. There are heavy gauge vinyl type pond liners with limited shelf lives. Less likely to be useful for your application because ponds/pools are often drained in winter to preserve the liner from ice damage. Your winter you need them working full capacity for water retention. My best idea is glass pool tile & grout to preserve the existing surface of concrete, easier to clean, non porous durability & holds up to winter. Labor intensive but worth it. The water source well is gravity feeding this and some sort of valve needs to be installed. When the well is mucked out & dry, inspecting the bottom chamber off to the side might indicate the remnants of a gate valve that can be replaced underground in a sleeve up to ground level for the turning gear. Like the gate valve at the water fall with a longer riser stem. Placing a valve directly on that back wall exterior would be easier, but also very miserable to operate standing in icy water. It would need a platform built to stand on and the grease for the riser stem valve may wind up in the water.
Hi guys, that's what we call a "tanque" or "poça", usually there were 3 purposes for it: - washing the clothes - watering the plants - give water to the animals. The hole in the bottom usually was closed using dirt and grass or in some cases there was a large faucet which was called "passador". Usually this kind of structure was built against the wall were the "nascente" water spring is, only the back wall should have ground touching it.
@@meredithwhidden8712 thats exactly what it does. Once a day the "tanque" was opened in the bottom and the water would flow using gravity, through channels in the ground, irrigating wathever crop was on the field at the time (potato, wheat, rye, onions, etc..).. or at least, thats what I used to do with my grandfather in the North of Portugal when I was a kid. There are also "tanques" used for washing clothes, but in those you will see the stones to scub the clothes on.
@@mariosergiogs true, but in the end it's just water storage that doesnt prevent the water from going into the ground, but you also have some controll over it and good access. The "lagoon" has the same function but for more water. It's not that much different from raised beds in south america (not the boxes that we build in the west now) or the way egypt usedcontrolled flooding of the channels. Humans regulate the waterflow since ancient times.... if you scale it up even more you would get a dam for a hydroponic powerplant, but to know the original name is cool.
Digging stumps can be very aggressive when you’ve cleared an area with saws… We’ve found the most effective way to clear trees, *especially* trees that spread via roots, such as poplars, is to push them over and pluck them with an excavator, where you can shake them and leave most of your soil behind and removed the whole root ball, then the excavator (if you have a thumb attachment) can stack the trees for later handling. True, the soil is somewhat torn up, but it seems to recover quite quickly when all the biomass is left behind, and it hasn’t been bull-dozed clear. This can be effective even with very large trees. We had to reclaim a farm yard + garden area that had been abandoned for 20 years, where the poplars had overgrown everything and even large spruce near the margins had reached the end of their lifespan. We cleared about 3 acres, with the excavator pushing/pulling the trees up, and a skid steer loader to remove the trees and stack them for later use as firewood. After the trees were removed, we took a small tractor with a landscape rake to remove a lot of the smaller branches that broke off, and smoothed out the soil. The next year native grasses had covered the whole area, and now most of it is pasture for horses and donkeys. No plowing or excessive digging. Later was was some seeding of forage crops for the horses.
That ending on the basin is clearly something they used to wash their clothes back in the day. It's very common in Portugal to have those lines to make the whole washing clothes process easier on the hands and arms.
Use an old garden hose to create a siphon to drain the water. Try it in the upper part behind the brick wall to dry out lower areas to reseal the basin. Add sealed water faucets to various heights to raise or lower the water level.
I cannot imagine any of these methods to kill-off stumps are worth the time and effort. You have hundreds and hundreds of these stumps. Either nail in a copper nail (which will be VERY time consuming also), or grind them out. The grinding will destroy the stump and aerate the soil to allow you to plant immediately. I am not understanding why there are always large piles of wood debris after you cut-down mimosas. They should all be chipped and the chips spread on the soil. This will help the soil retain rain water and protect the area from burning down. Those piles are very dry and a great place for critters (including snakes) to make their home.
It may well be a sign of "eco-dogmatism". They have good intentions but when someone tries to follow an ideal to perfection, he ends up creating a tiny amount of good. In order not to harm what they see as nature, they go for methods so inefficient that it is impossible to apply them at any meaningful scale, which will be worse for the land in the long run. I hope they will eventually realise that.
They don't have a tool for grinding. They already explained that when they need it he neighbors comes and helps but I guess it's not so easy. Eventually they will buy one with the tractor. It was in the plans last year on the website. They needed 3k for it
Should look in to getting a stump grinder. You can get a walk behind model for like $1800 USD new. They have ones that can connect to a excevator also.
Indeed and the tested methods take waaaay to much time, maybe a good solution foe one tree stump but the time it will take to get all those stumps covered takes so long a new forrest has grown.
I hope you take out the last tree around the well. Without competition it will have a lovely time getting its roots into the well. The research is so good.
In Poland we use special mycelium which decomposes the trunk, we smear the trunk with mycelium and cover it with leaves. After 1-3 years the trunk miraculously disappears :)
yay! thanks for sharing. couple of ideas.. that you probably already know! wool makes EXCELLENT insulation for all your buildings. also the soil from cleaning out ponds like that would be fabulous to put around the base of all the native trees you are trying to encourage to grow.
If you continue to use chain saws like they are hand saw, sawing back and forth you will continue to break them. The chain moves so you DO NOT have to saw back and forth. Also, sharpen the chains, and make sure to keep chain oil in chain oil revisor. If you don’t know what I talking about look up PROPER USE and CARE of chainsaw. Hope this helps. Also PILA or water revisor , water tank. To capture and contain clean spring water. To be used anyway you want to.
my favourite episodes are when you are uncovering something on the land. it's like an archaeological dig! I look forward to seeing what others secrets and treasures the land has in store for you.
Great going people, but please get a few pairs of sawpants and sturdy shoes(safetysneakers are available:-)). Chainsaws dont care and make horrible accidents, don't ask how i know
@@TempleGuitars I feel like either the owners are stingy with money and don't want to buy it. Or they pre-record all these videos so any chance or tip from the viewer won't show until a couple of months. Wich is a bad way to have engagement from your viewers.
@@PangTVP It is exactly that, mostly pre-recorded for a couple of months. At least twice in this video they talk about fully draining the water basin when the summer comes, while posting in August. with most of Summer gone.
I have been thinking this exact thing! My friend got a nasty gash on his leg from a kick back even when wearing sawpants and designated shoes. And my grandma would have lost her leg back in the day if not for the pants!
Fun as always. You guys are very creative and adventurous. I really loved the quote from the sheep farmer “Without trying nothing can be done”. That really sounds like the motto of Project Kamp! 😀
creating so much extra work with the stumps lol, just get a walk behind stump grinder, it will be worth it especially with how many mimosas are on the property...
A stump grinder would be great, but often the land is on a slope and using one would be difficult, even dangerous. That said, the dangers of a kickback or saw chain breaking when used to cut the pattern in larger mimosas is huge. I know there is a lot of concern expressed in these comments about how they are using the saws and I agree. I would hate to see anything happen to them because of that. To make it worse, I really, really like everything else they are doing and always like to see it.
Wait but that's too "agressive" on the soil 😂😂 these people live in some kind of bubble. Soil recovers from fire, volcano eruption, hurricane, asteroid impact and anything else. But a small man made machine is too aggressive? Come on, get real
@@Matzes My assumption would be that they are concerned about the rains in winter and erosion. Erosion, sometimes quite severe, caused by negligent agricultural practices does happen. Annoying as they are, retaining the root systems of the mimosas while other things develop is a more sustainable practice. Especially with all the wood chips they could be using.
Here in the uk we cut diagonal grooves in the stumps to prevent regrow. Also when applying the salt, concentrate around the edges as the middle is the heart wood. The outer edge is where the growth occurs
as a brazilian it's always interesting to hear the conversations with the portuguese neighbours and it's always funny seing you guys mixing some spanish into it hahaha but you're doing good!
Had a roof.. a low roof. It kept most things out.. run cube wire around the sides from the low roof edge, to the top of concrete rim. Keeps errant critters from contaminating supply, and allows easy water checkups. Congratulations on such a monumentally important farm find!
Project Kamp: Removing the new shoots by hand would be too labour intensive for us. Also Project Kamp *proceeds to do labour and resource intensive methods in order to rot the stumps* I mean by this point just get the goats already
@@maurice2572 at first and second season i was like "yeah they are smart if they do something like this", and now im watching it and im thinking "are they f**king stupid or something. Dont take me wrong i like what they do. But they do dangerous things without thinking about it.
@@MeiSdeep absolutely agree. It starts to become some eco-warrior/protective project over some solid ways how to do things. Leaving trees in the firezones and stacking the cut down trees in big heaps in firezones.... I really am like: WTF, you don't understand the principle of a firezone? Leaving all that dried material is just plain dangerous. I thought they'd have realised by now you need big machines to maintain a land as big as they have, instead they start using methods you use in a small garden and do it in a very dangerous way. WHat happened to all the money they crowdfunded for the digger? Just buy a local digger and get ahead with things.... Like for example using super poor protective gear when using a chainsaw etc. It literally is waiting for the episode it goes wrong. So sad to see.
Q & A question. There were Rose bushes next to one of the old ruins. Do the Roses grow wild naturally in Portugal... Or were they planted by a previous owner of the land?
1. Stump grinder! You have to make the land safe and hospitable so that your experiment can continue. 2. Build a brick wall to wall up your water source. Pump out and scrub the water tank lining it with mismatched odds and ends of ceramic tile. Build a screen over the top to keep leaves out of tank…tear down the brick wall after tiles installed. Trace other pipe which obviously was meant to handle overflow.
As a temporary barrier in a confined space with defined shape like the narrow part of the reservoir, you can cut a wooden board that nearly fits (by 0.5cm or so), and then put a bicycle tube around it and inflate, filling the gap and making it watertight. You need a support or two to keep the board from moving, otherwise it will "roll out" the tube.
We proceed as follows with the mimosa: Where we want a road, we remove everything with the excavator. Where we want to establish a new native forest, we cut the thousands of finger-thick mimosa with the brush cutter (with the chopping blade, bring it up to full speed, release the gas and then chop off the trunk). We peel the larger trunks first and let them dry out (see here: 3 x w invasoras pt/pt/planta-invasora/acacia-dealbata). However, we also leave some standing and cut them off waist-high. They sprout again and provide protection for the newly emerging forest. We cut them back again and again and use them as mulch (preferably with a chopper, otherwise just cut them and put them on the ground, e.g. around the cork oaks). If we no longer need them as protection after 3-4 years, we also peel them before we cut them off completely. A good chopper would really be an important investment. The mimosa can also be seen as valuable biomass. They fix a lot of nitrogen in the soil. I wouldn't plant them here, but now that they're here I make the most of them. Cork oaks are best planted directly with the seeds. Cut a 5/4 inch irrigation pipe at an angle. You can use it to poke a hole in the ground and put cork oak seeds in during the rainy season.
I wonder if the mimosa will be fixing nitrogen in the soil if they don't have right bacteria for the symbiosis since they aren't in their native country?
17:05 (kind of a continuation from last week) In principal it's a good idea to not wear shorts when working with the chainsaw, but a pair of pants like that will _not_ stop the chain. Like, at all. I would highly advise getting a pair of chainsaw pants or chaps!
As someone that use to work in forestry, shorts with chaps was the go to for most of the guys on the saws, shorts allow for quick movement and chaps for protection. I am unsure if they know what chaps are in the sense of forestry. Chaps are more versatile then the pant option as they are adjustable which as a group with many people helping out seems like the better option. A good pair here in NZ goes for around $300 so would expect them to be able to find a set for around 150 euro, which for something that could easily save someone's life or limb, a pretty good investment.
@@jamesbenton6532 Where I'm from, the cheapest class 1 pants from the local hypermarket cost ~60€, while a pair of quality workwear ones is ~130€ (e.g. from Strauss). Stihl sells chaps on their website for 100€. Should definitely be in the budget. I wonder what the (legal) consequences of a serious accident at Project Kamp would be.
What I understand real saw protection pants is to recommend for longer sessions with chainsaw. And of course saw protection shoes to that the shapps are for short temorary shain saw work. Yes I gets a little varm and moist but ,a saw cut in the leg with no protection tends to get a little "wet "also.
@@perstaffanlundgren Chaps cover 3/4th of the leg, yes a good set of boots is always recommended, but pant or chaps is more of a preference as if your putting the saw between your legs and then cutting your doing it wrong in the first place. Moist and sweaty one can deal with if you are doing it for a short time but as we worked 9 to 10 hours a day on the end off a saw, that can create real problems. The problem is to do with the restriction on the legs from pants when it coming to moving quickly it will slow you down more than the chaps. One has to remember that you have to manage the risk as it can not be eliminated when using saws.
there is a technique for removing tree stumps consisting of making a tripod out of 3 steel mason props and using a chain hoist attached to the tree stump to slowing lift it out of the ground. It works very well and doesn't require much physical force. There are some youtube videos showing how it works ;)
Wool is also excellent for insulation. It needs to be washed to remove the lanolin (body oils) and is fire resistant. I have used this in a shack that my family built to live in while building our main house. It works!
I insulated my 188 Sq ft tiny house with sheep wool..rinsed it..stretched it dried it put it in the wall. It's like a cozy sweater for my house. Sound proofing too. Best thing I did for my house..it gets -20 where I am.
If you’re still looking into getting a excavator for various projects around the kamp I recommend going with a good tractor that has a good connection joint in the back that would allow you guys to build out various types of equipment attachments as needed
FWIW, I cleared a 5 acre, about 2hectares, of natural meadow that was overgrown with an invasive buckthorn. I simply laid my chainsaw flat on the ground, cutting the buckthorn as close to the ground as possible, leaving a stump about 2-3cm from the ground. This allows me to simply mow over the whole meadow now, thus cutting down any buckthorn shoots that pop up. Over the past 5 years the grass slowly takes over and the buckthorn dies off!
Good Tip, but even in difficult Terrain it should be possible to use the Trimmer they’ve shown in Use around the Water Reservoir? How many Times can you go over the Area with a Trimmer to cut the Sprouts until it’s the same Effort as the other Methods?
@@FullSpeed_only It seems that about 50% of the buckthorn doesn’t grow back after the initial cutting. Of the rest, some I do string trim because I can’t get to it with the mower and after a couple years it seems to die off. It also helps tremendously that I have a bunch of wild deer also eating fresh buckthorn shoots, so, I think the Kamp crew would do well to fence their lot in and let goats and/or sheep do what they do best and eat everything as soon as it grows. Just like my buckthorn eventually gives up and dies, I’ll bet their invasive mimosa will also eventually die.
Something my father did to get rid of stumps was to run an electric fence around the lot he wanted to clear and using a piece of rebar he would bury acorns around and under the stumps he wanted gone. Then turned hogs loose in the lot. The pigs will root up the stumps to get to the acorns.
I've heard of another technique to speed up the rotting process of stumps. It starts the same as the Epsom salt technique with drilling holes, but instead of salt you add "compost starter", which is a mix of saprophyte bacteria and fungi. A little compost from a compost heap that is heating up nicely would probably do the same.
The salt method without cover worked to kill our honey locust trees. At first they survived and started sprouting again, but a second dose did the job. The stumps have been dormant now for over 5 years. It also worked on apple, cherry and cottonwood tree stumps. We live next to a natural forest and trees from the forest come up all over our yard. We are into propagating only native plants and trees so we try to get rid of the invasive species.
You need to get that water going from a little sand bag damb into a pipe straight into that bottom hole so the majority of the reservour stays dry so you can clean properly and cement those cracks.
I appreciate your efforts to exhaust every possible method of root/stump extraction without relying upon the only proven effective method (excavator). I'm totally the same kind of cat - handcuffing myself for inexplicable reasons.
Love watching the progress. When using the chainsaw place the bulk of the chainsaw against the surface to be cut. You'll notice some large teeth(probably 3 or 4), those are to hold the chainsaw securely against the tree. The chainsaw will cut better and last longer if it isn't bucking(jumping around) while cutting. You will also last longer, do more work and not get as tired when you aren't wrestling with it.
fungi VS mimosa - i think the easiest way to remove the mimonsa (stumps) will be to spread a fungus. Fungal spores are introduced for breeding in the same way as the salt in your experiment. Maybe you can find fruiting bodies on your property that have already infested such stumps or dead wood. You can then usually propagate these on wood chips and then introduce the mycelium onto/into the stumps. The fungus Fusarium oxysporum, often referred to as Fusarium wilt, is particularly dangerous for mimosa trees as it clogs the water and sap-bearing tissue of the tree. It could be in your interest to establish this type of fungus. However, I would recommend researching this further.
Spikey Bushes may be a mess. But a trove of blackberrys in summer. Never saw you do anything with them. Blackberry jam is delicious. Also that triton in the water meants is potable an high quality.
I have asked questions - in the past - about keeping bees for honey . Honey can be used to brew mead - blackberries add a nice berry note to many fermented beverages , including mead . I am a former brewer and beer historian . A small farmstead brewery has significant history by giving the farm workers a refreshing ( low alcohol ) refreshment during the hot work day .
Hello, I enjoyed the timelapse of the stakes being driven into the ground, where the stakes appear to be moving without being struck by the hammer. +1 to the video editor(s)!
If you want to drain the reservoir completely and keep it dry while you work on it, you can set up a siphon with a garden hose. One end in the pool you made with the little dam, and the other below the in a bucket below the big reservoir. make sure the top of the rim of the bucket is below the bottom of the big reservior, and all the water will flow through this bypass. I did this all the time to drain a hottub, and vacuum out the bottom
Whenever I've removed stumps I just got a metal fire ring (normally a 55 gallon drum with the bottom cut off. Then I would just make a fire in the barrel on top of the stumps. Not sure if this is an option where ya'll are located. But it definitely works.
For killing off tree stumps i put a steel can over the stump to block the light. The tree stump wastes its latent energy trying to push up shoots which without light do not replace the lost energy coming out of the roots. Use soft drink or food cans, 1 or 2 litre coffee cans, 20 litre metal Paint drums and 200 litre metal fuel drums
I'm hoping for the wood chip method 🤞 No sourcing epsom salt, wool, or twine, no messing with drilling or grinding, and on a large scale, no fussing with logs and stakes. Chip up the trees you just cut down (it looks like you're doing that anyway) and spread them thickly over the area. Makes a decent walking surface, protects the soil, fire-resistant once it is damp from rain/groundwater, breaks down into compost. Easy peasy!
A potential sixth method: one or two layers of cardboard with a wheelbarrows worth of woodchips on top to weigh it down. This has worked very effectively to block out sun and trap moisture encouraging rot. Could use anything like plywood or metal sheet or even plastic tarp but cardboard is safest and readily available and usually free
quick tip: Use the mud from the bottom of the bassin to fertilise the soil. It contains a lot of compost and minerals that will super-😃boost your garden and holds water in the ground. Greetings Douwe.
You should collect the wool, wash it and use it as sustainable building insulation for your next builds. if you don't remove the oils its water resistant and also anti-bacterial. Also agree with the other comments, get a wood chipper and stum grinder. if you had to do the salt methods for all the trees you cut down surely the salt would wreck the soil.
The best and easiest way to remove the stumps is by far the excavator/dozzer. It pulls out almost everything and tilling the soil is the best as it gets oxygen back into the soil. I’m sure you have better things to do with your time than to wait a year! to see if these “alternative” ways work. In the mean time you could be using all of the land that has been cleared with the dozzer.
Great idea. Google says you use nails that are 3” long and 1/8” in diameter. The copper robs the tree of nutrients and water, killing the stump over time.
Alana is great! I'm enjoying the amateur scientific experimentation and her clear explanations! Also love seeing another salamander! Please ensure there is still plentiful habitat for them, if not more, with all the work you're doing!
alot of those spiky bushes were wild roses by the way. might be a native. could take a small clump for the garden yall have. having a full understory and mid-story of native diverse plants and ground covers would help suppress the invasives and in time assist you guys in keeping the land clear and help keep land moist and recharge the aquifer. also on my land, when i gotta deal with stump clusters i use large branches or logs around in an alternating pattern , no need to steak or support the walls , the soil and plants will do that. and then fill with dirt, top off with mulch and you have a new raised bed garden . havent had any come up, but my log retaining walls sometimes do, so maybe dont use fresh logs for the walls roots from plants, worms, soil and water will break that stump apart and you can plant and protect a native plant in its own garden bed.
its usefull info, if you cant replace the soil with new soil to minimize damaging the aoil by removing the stomps with machine. I will still remove them with machine and put alot of new compost soil on it
This is quite interesting. I have just got a property with a heap of trees I need to get rid of. I can afford someone to chop them down but maybe not to grind the stumps out. These ways might help me rot the stumps. Please update us on these experiments. 🎉❤
All that wool could be turned into great project kamp merch. Would give the local economy a boost Bring in 1-2 people on site to help make/spin wool OR could hire a local company to do it.
Wool preparation is big undertaking, and not all wool is useable. It’s not like you can just pick up the fleece and start working on it. Also it takes quite a lot of specialised skills and equipment to make a usable item, and most people these days don’t know how of have the time of inclination, to look after woollen clothing and household items. Just from the look of the fleece on the ground it seems like a fairly short staple which is more difficult to work with even for experienced spinners. Speaking here from 40+ years of spinning experience
@@rafaelv9957 it’s an incredibly specialised craft and also unbelievably time consuming. I’m knitting myself a pullover from yarn I spun from pre-prepared wool and I probably would already have spent a week on it and still have a long way to go
Actually, no there would not be enough orders to facilitate hiring people as there has to be a lot of work done and to have an affordable price whilst covering costs no one will buy it
If you've got natural mint there, the soil is probably very fertile! I'd love to see Project Kamp become a regenerative food forest. You can easily and cheaply make some seedballs filled with carefully selected seeds. Low groundcover, sprawling groundcover, flowers, herbs, tall grasses (corn), beans, climbing vines, fruit trees, and tall nut trees could all be scattered strategically to boost diversity and ecosystem health. Plus a lot of productive crops to forage for!
Use an old hose to siphon to clear the water from the basin. Try the siphon in the top spring area to keep bottom part dry so you can seal the basin and add faucets at different heights to drain water or direct the overflow.
These looked pretty dry, but you are correct. There are two ways to prevent that though (besides using dried stakes) and that is peeling them and making sure the top end goes in the ground, best to combine all three.
i love the effort you went to for keeping the roots in the ground to rot down and not disturb the fungal communities! still seems super time consuming haha but super interesting either way!!! love from london
Someone else is bound to have said this but if you run a pipe from the temporary dam to the drain hole at the other end and you can have the water bypass the main part of the tank
If you can access into the water source, you should drain it as much as you can as it will most likely fill up in the next day or two. Dry out and clean the water storage completely, then pour concrete to water a water tight seal. The pipe inside that stands up is an overflow pipe it can be proped up to any certain level that you want the water at. During summer, when the water table drops, it would be ideally when you should do the repairs. As you have said, it would be dry and allow you to work without worrying about water flow affecting the drying concrete. With the holes, I would suggest making a wooden plug to gently hammer into the pipe to seal it.
25:19 Be careful when you are doing this part because if the chainsaw chain goes in the soil it will blunt it a lot and make it more prone to kickback. You should definitely have some protective gear, not just normal trousers, they will not help much. Spending a few hundred euros on protective gear is definitely a good investment as it could save you from serious injury, vision loss/damage (from things flying into eyes) or even death (from bleeding out from femoral artery (you could loose all your blood in a matter of minutes)). Also chainsaw chains should be sharpened and replaced routinely.
If you had a small tractor you could get and auger attachment and completely drill out and mulch those stumps in seconds. Much safer, faster, and easier than using a stump grinder and you won't end up flinging stuff everywhere. Alternatively, you could get a steel barrel, cut off the top/bottom, put it around the stump, and burn it out. Just not in the dry season...
Im surprised you guys never erected a water tower. An oil tank for home heating, run you maybe 450 euros. For a thousand litre container. Hoist it up on a scaffold. 1000 litres isnt as much as people might think but between that and your well, could help during the drier seasons. Even just putting the tank on a particularly high bit of ground near your water source would be sufficient. Plus even if you don't want to use it for cooking or cleaning. Really wouldnt be difficult to rig up a small hydro-electric system. Use the tank as a gravity battery for clean environmentally friendly power storage.
For your basin you can use a product that is called liquid rubber for pond sealing, there are several brands. It is extremely strong, non toxic, and you can brush it on the inner walls and the cracks from the basin. They also sell reinforcement patches which you can apply at larger cracks. There are videos about liquid rubber. If stones are missing it is best practice to fill those large gaps first with some cement. And after that you can apply the liquid rubber, then apply a reinforcement patch, and then brush the patch again with the liquid rubber product. It can stretch about 200 times before it punctures. You can also repair the holes from the bulkhead fittings with the same product. Again, it is extremely strong and durable and UV resistant and non toxic, and it is made for this exact purpose. It will not leach toxic solvents. It will last forever, and it is very easy to apply. If you want to have a dry basin you can pump the water away in front of the small dam that you made. You can also use a pond vacuum cleaner. It can handle some level of mud. I recently bought one from Aquaforte. It is not too expensive and it works really well. You can also do dry vacuum cleaning, and indoor and outdoor wet vacuum cleaning with the same cleaner, so it is multi functional.
Are there reasons that you aren't using goats to help clear the land? It seems like that method would be faster. Some species of pigs are good for clearing the overgrown timber areas as well. Also, pigs tend to urinate in the same spots over and over, generally at the base of a tree, which is known to kill the tree. I don't know but I would guess human urine would do the same thing. An endless resource , if it worked. Animals require fencing but there's really good solar powered electric fencing available. Contain the animals to small areas to clean up the overgrowth and rotate as needed.
I love to think one of the editors is just whistling that track and adding on in post hahaha Also for your little basin situation you build a slamm dam like already and put a waterpump down in there so push all the water somewhere else temporarily. alternatively, you build a little dam over a pipe and run the pupe outside the basin to move the water trough before its able to start building up :) Also you can get stump remover tools :D
The amount of salts you will need with these methods on a large scale is massive, and with that much addition of microelements and salts it will absolutely mess with your soil. Mulch will work for a year or so till the mulch breaks down, mimosas are very vigorous as you already know. Also your site is too large to supply such a quantity to be effective even if you mulch every tree, especially after year one of treatment. You have an excavator on the way, I suggest you buy a stump grinder attachment and be done with the stump management i believe there was a little extra in the gofundme that could be a start towards it maybe? You have so many more worthwhile projects to spend your time on! The more trees you clear , the bigger the stump management will become. If you choose massively labour, chemical or material intensive methods you will become slaves to the stumps. I have cleared many many acres of pittosporum undulatum in my country and have found over years of doing so that there is no substitute for mechanical removal. Stump grinders really only effect the soil relatively around the stump and is considerably less damaging to the surrounding area, not to mention it instantly adds organic matter back into the ground as you go. win win win. I love watching you guys learn your way through the issues on Project Kamp, but I feel you dont need to reinvent the wheel with this. However if you are to persist with the epson salts, if you dissolve the salts in water before you add them to the stumps, it will save you some time. Also, greater coverage with the tarps will eliminate more air and light reaching the stumps and discourage them returning . Lots of Love from Australia.
@@vijay20 In one video they said that if a comment saying "we want spikey booshes merch" got more than a thousand likes, they would make some merch. The rest is history haha
A propane torch and scorch/char out smaller stumps. We did that for our backyard and cabin land. A propane tank like you use on a grill and torch will be helpful in other ways. But I do beg, invest in chainsaw chaps. I see the PPE used for the trimmers but then lack of it with the chainsaw is a disaster waiting to happen.
"Let's use PPE for this relatively safe weed whacker, but completely ignore them for this artery ripping chainsaw. We may acquire some useful insight to share in the research module"
Probably want to add some water to speed up the mulch breakdown/ helpful bacteria funghi growth. 💫 Would also love a deep dive on the spikey booshes: what species do you have to contend with?
I suggest you build a small wall just behind where you have the piece of wood stuck, you leave one small area in the center at the bottom open, so the water can continue to flow, then build the wall up to the top with some block and put a hose cemented in half way up, then use a small amount of a special water proof cement to plug the bottom hole, put another piece of wood with some silicone on the inside just to protect it from the building water pressure while the cement cures, and now you have all the water diverted and can easily clean and repair the entire area, once you are done, you can just remove the plug in the bottom and leave the wall, so you have a way already to perform repairs.
also you could just cut it close to the ground and then give it a few deep cuts down into the stump so that the cuts will hold water and make the stump rot.
The digger doesn't have a bad effect in the long term, if the dirt is not compressed, you also have to nourish the dirt with compost and mulch after, but. Otherwise the nature is really resilient 😉
Wool is fantastic for older seedlings / plants. Dig a hole, fill with water. Put wool into the hole and then plant directly ontop of the wool. It has been my go to for tomatoes especially!
It's enjoyable to see Dave getting dirty. I know everyone there is busy doing things there each and every day. You have a pretty good following, but, I believe you'd have more with two episodes per week. I know it may take from the goals on hand though. Otherwise, I wish I could be there to help you all with those projects.
@@xavery7842 Watch last q&a (last episode ending with 8) and someone asked same question. I am sorry I mixed things, because someone asked for 24/7 live camera, and I mixed their answer to it and their answer to more videos.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Follow updates about the basin here: community.projectkamp.com/research/can-we-restore-an-old-water-basin
Not seeing much input on your basin project so I'll put it here (I don't have an account established at that other site yet). There are a few things that speed up concrete decay. The moss/algae growing on the side walls is one of them as they tend to leach out minerals as a growing medium. Ivy vines do similar damage to masonry grout. Fungi & microbe colonies also damage. The concrete was not likely sealed before it went into water service. Water from both sides of the cement walls are reducing it's useful life and inviting vegetation to a feast. Sludge is bad for concrete. Hard water/low oxygen/ PH extremes from the water source may also contribute to some chemical interaction going on. Not sure of the age of the pour, but the probability this has survived 2 wildfires (melted pipes) means it has possibly lost about half it's strength from exposure to wildfires. Engineers say 750f or more will do that. I'm not an engineer, but I believe them.
I'd start by reducing the elevation of dirt on all sides contributing to your muck collection system. Divert soil erosion away. Horizontal pressure reduced, the heaving of winter is also reduced, averting cave ins. Once mucked out clean the general area of cement with a soak spray of 1:10 bleach (I know you don't like that) or straight vinegar (less effective than bleach) to arrest the leaching. Follow through with the pressure washer after an hour or so. Large hole patches you have the option of quick setting cement- many varieties. Assuming the basin is still partially submerged you'll have to go with things along the line of DRYLOK Fast Plug Hydraulic Cement, Quikrete Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement, or Hydroplug hydraulic cement. Some variety of these would be available at a plumbers store. Forewarning- as soon as they activate they are forming their final shape. Wear chemical gloves, work fast, in small batches, and don't bother trying to make it pretty or match up with existing concrete. It won't look pretty no matter what you do. I mix it with disposable things. Using a mortar trowel it won't come off clean. Use a piece of plastic shaped like a trowel as disposable will preserve your trowel. It won't set ideally when temps are cold. Perhaps you can tell I hate the stuff but know it's a common option used by professional plumbers because it works in minutes and they're usually responding to mitigate water damage.
Before quick cement there were flexible patches that can work for years being the caulk that holds wooden ships together. A traditional sailors remedy called oakum which I'm more comfortable working with as they are very forgiving toward amateurs. Made of hemp/jute, impregnated with all kinds of things. Sometimes pine tar, sometimes resins, sometimes a mix that includes bentonite (a clay), waxes or linseed oil. The bentonite version is still sold in American box stores, preferred because it expands once wet. If you research out ingredients you can make custom batches on site. The ingredients are often primitive & easy to replicate. When in doubt swing by a marine repair shop (Porto?), see what oakum they have for sale or if they know anyone still selling the stuff for wooden boats. Costs for ready made is about $10/lb. in USD. It works on everything (wood, plastic, glass panes, metal) not exposed to heat like chimney flues. Discard the old pipe, clean inner diameter of cement bore hole, get a new pipe leading to wherever you want the overflow to go, wrap that pipe tightly with oakum where it interfaces with the concrete. If it leaks it's because you didn't use enough of it, pack it in tighter. When you need it out of your way today or 10 years from now, you just pull it out with pliers. Good for waterproof seams, cracks, and holes. Centuries old it's still used for emergency repairs on sinking boats.
Next year you're going to have to decide how to seal the cement surfaces after they get cleaned. Resurfacing with fresh concrete only winds up palling off in winter. The coatings for swimming pools are often containing an anti algae/anti fouling element you might not want in a drinking supply. There are heavy gauge vinyl type pond liners with limited shelf lives. Less likely to be useful for your application because ponds/pools are often drained in winter to preserve the liner from ice damage. Your winter you need them working full capacity for water retention. My best idea is glass pool tile & grout to preserve the existing surface of concrete, easier to clean, non porous durability & holds up to winter. Labor intensive but worth it. The water source well is gravity feeding this and some sort of valve needs to be installed. When the well is mucked out & dry, inspecting the bottom chamber off to the side might indicate the remnants of a gate valve that can be replaced underground in a sleeve up to ground level for the turning gear. Like the gate valve at the water fall with a longer riser stem. Placing a valve directly on that back wall exterior would be easier, but also very miserable to operate standing in icy water. It would need a platform built to stand on and the grease for the riser stem valve may wind up in the water.
Hi guys, that's what we call a "tanque" or "poça", usually there were 3 purposes for it:
- washing the clothes
- watering the plants
- give water to the animals.
The hole in the bottom usually was closed using dirt and grass or in some cases there was a large faucet which was called "passador".
Usually this kind of structure was built against the wall were the "nascente" water spring is, only the back wall should have ground touching it.
That's really interesting, I was going to suggest it was used for watering a garden
Since it is fresh spring it would have been also used for human consumption.
@@meredithwhidden8712 thats exactly what it does. Once a day the "tanque" was opened in the bottom and the water would flow using gravity, through channels in the ground, irrigating wathever crop was on the field at the time (potato, wheat, rye, onions, etc..).. or at least, thats what I used to do with my grandfather in the North of Portugal when I was a kid.
There are also "tanques" used for washing clothes, but in those you will see the stones to scub the clothes on.
I'm thinking that the pipe may have pulled water to a house or some animal pen 🤔
Saudações Pereira
@@mariosergiogs true, but in the end it's just water storage that doesnt prevent the water from going into the ground, but you also have some controll over it and good access. The "lagoon" has the same function but for more water. It's not that much different from raised beds in south america (not the boxes that we build in the west now) or the way egypt usedcontrolled flooding of the channels. Humans regulate the waterflow since ancient times.... if you scale it up even more you would get a dam for a hydroponic powerplant, but to know the original name is cool.
Digging stumps can be very aggressive when you’ve cleared an area with saws… We’ve found the most effective way to clear trees, *especially* trees that spread via roots, such as poplars, is to push them over and pluck them with an excavator, where you can shake them and leave most of your soil behind and removed the whole root ball, then the excavator (if you have a thumb attachment) can stack the trees for later handling. True, the soil is somewhat torn up, but it seems to recover quite quickly when all the biomass is left behind, and it hasn’t been bull-dozed clear.
This can be effective even with very large trees. We had to reclaim a farm yard + garden area that had been abandoned for 20 years, where the poplars had overgrown everything and even large spruce near the margins had reached the end of their lifespan. We cleared about 3 acres, with the excavator pushing/pulling the trees up, and a skid steer loader to remove the trees and stack them for later use as firewood. After the trees were removed, we took a small tractor with a landscape rake to remove a lot of the smaller branches that broke off, and smoothed out the soil. The next year native grasses had covered the whole area, and now most of it is pasture for horses and donkeys. No plowing or excessive digging. Later was was some seeding of forage crops for the horses.
lol, "look there's an animal here", and then thrusts the camera directly into the water
salamander was like "oh shit just hold still" o_o
😂
It was “so now he has a house now”
That ending on the basin is clearly something they used to wash their clothes back in the day.
It's very common in Portugal to have those lines to make the whole washing clothes process easier on the hands and arms.
Same in Italy
it totally is! I had one even bigger at my house in my hometown (that is very near from Project Kamp)
they are usually not far from a main house too.
Use an old garden hose to create a siphon to drain the water. Try it in the upper part behind the brick wall to dry out lower areas to reseal the basin. Add sealed water faucets to various heights to raise or lower the water level.
I second the idea to use a siphon!
Yeah im not sure what happened with that. They basically personified Ned Flander's parents "We tried nothing and we're all out of ideas!"
The issue is you have to control the flow rate so it sucks out the same amount, but it goes in otherwise it will get air in it and stop
I cannot imagine any of these methods to kill-off stumps are worth the time and effort. You have hundreds and hundreds of these stumps. Either nail in a copper nail (which will be VERY time consuming also), or grind them out. The grinding will destroy the stump and aerate the soil to allow you to plant immediately. I am not understanding why there are always large piles of wood debris after you cut-down mimosas. They should all be chipped and the chips spread on the soil. This will help the soil retain rain water and protect the area from burning down. Those piles are very dry and a great place for critters (including snakes) to make their home.
It may well be a sign of "eco-dogmatism". They have good intentions but when someone tries to follow an ideal to perfection, he ends up creating a tiny amount of good. In order not to harm what they see as nature, they go for methods so inefficient that it is impossible to apply them at any meaningful scale, which will be worse for the land in the long run. I hope they will eventually realise that.
They don't have a tool for grinding. They already explained that when they need it he neighbors comes and helps but I guess it's not so easy. Eventually they will buy one with the tractor. It was in the plans last year on the website. They needed 3k for it
It's good to experiment with cheap techniques because grinders are expensive.
It's not hard to cut a few lines in a stump.
@@bellezayverdad Your comment is so spot on, my thoughts exactly:/
They need a wood chipper or 2. Part of their "Tools for Clearing the Land" list.
Should look in to getting a stump grinder. You can get a walk behind model for like $1800 USD new. They have ones that can connect to a excevator also.
For the ammount of stumps its definitely worth it
Indeed and the tested methods take waaaay to much time, maybe a good solution foe one tree stump but the time it will take to get all those stumps covered takes so long a new forrest has grown.
based on their budget style a rootaxe or a splitting axe, would already be an inprovement on their current plans
@joopjosvanzuiderwijk5850 and as long as they're using the waste as mulch/compost, it's not even super damaging or wasteful.
Or a digger....which you anyway want. This pice by pice with drilling holes and covering etc lead to nothing in this scale.
I hope you take out the last tree around the well. Without competition it will have a lovely time getting its roots into the well. The research is so good.
In Poland we use special mycelium which decomposes the trunk, we smear the trunk with mycelium and cover it with leaves. After 1-3 years the trunk miraculously disappears :)
They could cultivate a mushroom forest, food and the stumps decompose win win
Awesome idea!
Fantastic idea!
U can buy bigger containers, for forestry
Is that also for mimosa? Or different types of trees?
08:17 that metal thig it is called "sickle" meant for cutting grass or thin vegetation. Keep it up guys!
yay! thanks for sharing. couple of ideas.. that you probably already know! wool makes EXCELLENT insulation for all your buildings. also the soil from cleaning out ponds like that would be fabulous to put around the base of all the native trees you are trying to encourage to grow.
Except you'll have to treat the wool somehow. If not you'll be smelling a funky sheepsmell whenever you'll be inside that building.
@@MarcoReekers01 Treating the wool would defeat the whole purpose....
@@Feeoryne Why? Is your wool sweater not warm?
@@MarcoReekers01 it is possible to clean it thoroughly, but he is a bit labour-intensive once that’s done they shouldn’t be much of anything
If you continue to use chain saws like they are hand saw, sawing back and forth you will continue to break them. The chain moves so you DO NOT have to saw back and forth. Also, sharpen the chains, and make sure to keep chain oil in chain oil revisor. If you don’t know what I talking about look up PROPER USE and CARE of chainsaw. Hope this helps.
Also PILA or water revisor , water tank. To capture and contain clean spring water. To be used anyway you want to.
my favourite episodes are when you are uncovering something on the land. it's like an archaeological dig! I look forward to seeing what others secrets and treasures the land has in store for you.
Great going people, but please get a few pairs of sawpants and sturdy shoes(safetysneakers are available:-)). Chainsaws dont care and make horrible accidents, don't ask how i know
It amazes me how they have this amazing resource of knowledgeable viewers, and week after week they totally ignore them.
@@TempleGuitars I feel like either the owners are stingy with money and don't want to buy it. Or they pre-record all these videos so any chance or tip from the viewer won't show until a couple of months. Wich is a bad way to have engagement from your viewers.
@@PangTVP It is exactly that, mostly pre-recorded for a couple of months. At least twice in this video they talk about fully draining the water basin when the summer comes, while posting in August. with most of Summer gone.
I have been thinking this exact thing! My friend got a nasty gash on his leg from a kick back even when wearing sawpants and designated shoes. And my grandma would have lost her leg back in the day if not for the pants!
Yes! Chainsaws are good tools but one small trip or snag with the blade and your are done. Always were chainsaw-pants, boots and helmet!
Fun as always. You guys are very creative and adventurous. I really loved the quote from the sheep farmer “Without trying nothing can be done”. That really sounds like the motto of Project Kamp! 😀
creating so much extra work with the stumps lol, just get a walk behind stump grinder, it will be worth it especially with how many mimosas are on the property...
A stump grinder would be great, but often the land is on a slope and using one would be difficult, even dangerous. That said, the dangers of a kickback or saw chain breaking when used to cut the pattern in larger mimosas is huge. I know there is a lot of concern expressed in these comments about how they are using the saws and I agree. I would hate to see anything happen to them because of that. To make it worse, I really, really like everything else they are doing and always like to see it.
They need a muncher head for the digger they want to get. They could mulch that forest in no time
Wait but that's too "agressive" on the soil 😂😂 these people live in some kind of bubble. Soil recovers from fire, volcano eruption, hurricane, asteroid impact and anything else. But a small man made machine is too aggressive? Come on, get real
@@Matzes My assumption would be that they are concerned about the rains in winter and erosion. Erosion, sometimes quite severe, caused by negligent agricultural practices does happen. Annoying as they are, retaining the root systems of the mimosas while other things develop is a more sustainable practice. Especially with all the wood chips they could be using.
@@Matzes however the ecosystem has changed after these drastic events
Here in the uk we cut diagonal grooves in the stumps to prevent regrow. Also when applying the salt, concentrate around the edges as the middle is the heart wood. The outer edge is where the growth occurs
as a brazilian it's always interesting to hear the conversations with the portuguese neighbours
and it's always funny seing you guys mixing some spanish into it hahaha but you're doing good!
Had a roof.. a low roof. It kept most things out.. run cube wire around the sides from the low roof edge, to the top of concrete rim. Keeps errant critters from contaminating supply, and allows easy water checkups. Congratulations on such a monumentally important farm find!
Can't help but notice how good the video editing was.
@@nielpatrickmascarinas8845 me too. It was really well done. Music worked like a charm too.
Project Kamp: Removing the new shoots by hand would be too labour intensive for us.
Also Project Kamp *proceeds to do labour and resource intensive methods in order to rot the stumps*
I mean by this point just get the goats already
Haaaa haaa. Exactly. lol. Stumps rotting can take years! This one was painful to watch.
@@mikewood8680 Only this one???? You didn't watch last week's video, did you?
@@maurice2572 at first and second season i was like "yeah they are smart if they do something like this", and now im watching it and im thinking "are they f**king stupid or something. Dont take me wrong i like what they do. But they do dangerous things without thinking about it.
@@MeiSdeep what is dangerous?
@@MeiSdeep absolutely agree. It starts to become some eco-warrior/protective project over some solid ways how to do things. Leaving trees in the firezones and stacking the cut down trees in big heaps in firezones.... I really am like: WTF, you don't understand the principle of a firezone? Leaving all that dried material is just plain dangerous. I thought they'd have realised by now you need big machines to maintain a land as big as they have, instead they start using methods you use in a small garden and do it in a very dangerous way. WHat happened to all the money they crowdfunded for the digger? Just buy a local digger and get ahead with things.... Like for example using super poor protective gear when using a chainsaw etc. It literally is waiting for the episode it goes wrong. So sad to see.
I love the synchronisation of music while emptying thé basin... so cooool 😊
That's a tank to wash clothes. The bit that fell when you touched is used to wash fabric, that why the texture in squares
The metal thing found in the bassin is an old sickle! Those things can be found everywhere and some can be extremely old.
Q & A question. There were Rose bushes next to one of the old ruins. Do the Roses grow wild naturally in Portugal... Or were they planted by a previous owner of the land?
It would be super cool to see some wool processing in camp! Cart it, spin it into yarn, and make clothing 😄
and blankets and bags maybe too! filling for seat cushions, all sorts of things!
felting is a fantastic art
Kids are not interested in methods that involve animal exploitation.
1. Stump grinder! You have to make the land safe and hospitable so that your experiment can continue.
2. Build a brick wall to wall up your water source. Pump out and scrub the water tank lining it with mismatched odds and ends of ceramic tile. Build a screen over the top to keep leaves out of tank…tear down the brick wall after tiles installed. Trace other pipe which obviously was meant to handle overflow.
As a temporary barrier in a confined space with defined shape like the narrow part of the reservoir, you can cut a wooden board that nearly fits (by 0.5cm or so), and then put a bicycle tube around it and inflate, filling the gap and making it watertight. You need a support or two to keep the board from moving, otherwise it will "roll out" the tube.
Instead of a pump try a syphon. You would only need a hose
@@jeremybird5739 the issue with syphons is they dont usually auto start, so someone would have to go and re-start it every once in a while
Buying expensive machinery requires the funds to be able to do so
We proceed as follows with the mimosa:
Where we want a road, we remove everything with the excavator.
Where we want to establish a new native forest, we cut the thousands of finger-thick mimosa with the brush cutter (with the chopping blade, bring it up to full speed, release the gas and then chop off the trunk). We peel the larger trunks first and let them dry out (see here: 3 x w invasoras pt/pt/planta-invasora/acacia-dealbata). However, we also leave some standing and cut them off waist-high. They sprout again and provide protection for the newly emerging forest. We cut them back again and again and use them as mulch (preferably with a chopper, otherwise just cut them and put them on the ground, e.g. around the cork oaks). If we no longer need them as protection after 3-4 years, we also peel them before we cut them off completely. A good chopper would really be an important investment. The mimosa can also be seen as valuable biomass. They fix a lot of nitrogen in the soil. I wouldn't plant them here, but now that they're here I make the most of them. Cork oaks are best planted directly with the seeds. Cut a 5/4 inch irrigation pipe at an angle. You can use it to poke a hole in the ground and put cork oak seeds in during the rainy season.
I wonder if the mimosa will be fixing nitrogen in the soil if they don't have right bacteria for the symbiosis since they aren't in their native country?
17:05 (kind of a continuation from last week) In principal it's a good idea to not wear shorts when working with the chainsaw, but a pair of pants like that will _not_ stop the chain. Like, at all. I would highly advise getting a pair of chainsaw pants or chaps!
As someone that use to work in forestry, shorts with chaps was the go to for most of the guys on the saws, shorts allow for quick movement and chaps for protection. I am unsure if they know what chaps are in the sense of forestry. Chaps are more versatile then the pant option as they are adjustable which as a group with many people helping out seems like the better option. A good pair here in NZ goes for around $300 so would expect them to be able to find a set for around 150 euro, which for something that could easily save someone's life or limb, a pretty good investment.
@@jamesbenton6532 Where I'm from, the cheapest class 1 pants from the local hypermarket cost ~60€, while a pair of quality workwear ones is ~130€ (e.g. from Strauss). Stihl sells chaps on their website for 100€. Should definitely be in the budget.
I wonder what the (legal) consequences of a serious accident at Project Kamp would be.
It is mostly the case he has ordered some as quality ones can take a while to get
What I understand real saw protection pants is to recommend for longer sessions with chainsaw. And of course saw protection shoes to that the shapps are for short temorary shain saw work. Yes I gets a little varm and moist but ,a saw cut in the leg with no protection tends to get a little "wet "also.
@@perstaffanlundgren Chaps cover 3/4th of the leg, yes a good set of boots is always recommended, but pant or chaps is more of a preference as if your putting the saw between your legs and then cutting your doing it wrong in the first place. Moist and sweaty one can deal with if you are doing it for a short time but as we worked 9 to 10 hours a day on the end off a saw, that can create real problems. The problem is to do with the restriction on the legs from pants when it coming to moving quickly it will slow you down more than the chaps. One has to remember that you have to manage the risk as it can not be eliminated when using saws.
there is a technique for removing tree stumps consisting of making a tripod out of 3 steel mason props and using a chain hoist attached to the tree stump to slowing lift it out of the ground. It works very well and doesn't require much physical force. There are some youtube videos showing how it works ;)
Yes.
Wool is also excellent for insulation. It needs to be washed to remove the lanolin (body oils) and is fire resistant. I have used this in a shack that my family built to live in while building our main house. It works!
sheep's wool makes a great insulation material
yep, its one of the best natural insulators.
I insulated my 188 Sq ft tiny house with sheep wool..rinsed it..stretched it dried it put it in the wall.
It's like a cozy sweater for my house. Sound proofing too. Best thing I did for my house..it gets -20 where I am.
If you’re still looking into getting a excavator for various projects around the kamp I recommend going with a good tractor that has a good connection joint in the back that would allow you guys to build out various types of equipment attachments as needed
Another good line for yr t-shirts,” Not sure I’m ready for another pipe saga”.
FWIW, I cleared a 5 acre, about 2hectares, of natural meadow that was overgrown with an invasive buckthorn. I simply laid my chainsaw flat on the ground, cutting the buckthorn as close to the ground as possible, leaving a stump about 2-3cm from the ground. This allows me to simply mow over the whole meadow now, thus cutting down any buckthorn shoots that pop up. Over the past 5 years the grass slowly takes over and the buckthorn dies off!
Good Tip, but even in difficult Terrain it should be possible to use the Trimmer they’ve shown in Use around the Water Reservoir?
How many Times can you go over the Area with a Trimmer to cut the Sprouts until it’s the same Effort as the other Methods?
@@FullSpeed_only It seems that about 50% of the buckthorn doesn’t grow back after the initial cutting. Of the rest, some I do string trim because I can’t get to it with the mower and after a couple years it seems to die off. It also helps tremendously that I have a bunch of wild deer also eating fresh buckthorn shoots, so, I think the Kamp crew would do well to fence their lot in and let goats and/or sheep do what they do best and eat everything as soon as it grows. Just like my buckthorn eventually gives up and dies, I’ll bet their invasive mimosa will also eventually die.
Something my father did to get rid of stumps was to run an electric fence around the lot he wanted to clear and using a piece of rebar he would bury acorns around and under the stumps he wanted gone. Then turned hogs loose in the lot. The pigs will root up the stumps to get to the acorns.
I've heard of another technique to speed up the rotting process of stumps. It starts the same as the Epsom salt technique with drilling holes, but instead of salt you add "compost starter", which is a mix of saprophyte bacteria and fungi. A little compost from a compost heap that is heating up nicely would probably do the same.
The salt method without cover worked to kill our honey locust trees. At first they survived and started sprouting again, but a second dose did the job. The stumps have been dormant now for over 5 years. It also worked on apple, cherry and cottonwood tree stumps. We live next to a natural forest and trees from the forest come up all over our yard. We are into propagating only native plants and trees so we try to get rid of the invasive species.
You need to get that water going from a little sand bag damb into a pipe straight into that bottom hole so the majority of the reservour stays dry so you can clean properly and cement those cracks.
You could use the wool for insulation during the winter, in some of the buildings, if they're not going to use it and just throw it away...
placing gardens round that may be amazing
vegetables like cucumbers pumpkins squash and watermelon would love that much water
I appreciate your efforts to exhaust every possible method of root/stump extraction without relying upon the only proven effective method (excavator). I'm totally the same kind of cat - handcuffing myself for inexplicable reasons.
Lol... they are indeed so 'cautious' ... it's funny to anyone who owns jungle.
Methinks a siphon hose is much easier than using a bucket to bail water out the reservoir. Glad you found the out-pipe at some point though.
Me thinks it would plug up quickly, ask me how I know😂
It’s mucky water so it would not be the best
Love watching the progress. When using the chainsaw place the bulk of the chainsaw against the surface to be cut. You'll notice some large teeth(probably 3 or 4), those are to hold the chainsaw securely against the tree. The chainsaw will cut better and last longer if it isn't bucking(jumping around) while cutting. You will also last longer, do more work and not get as tired when you aren't wrestling with it.
fungi VS mimosa - i think the easiest way to remove the mimonsa (stumps) will be to spread a fungus. Fungal spores are introduced for breeding in the same way as the salt in your experiment. Maybe you can find fruiting bodies on your property that have already infested such stumps or dead wood. You can then usually propagate these on wood chips and then introduce the mycelium onto/into the stumps. The fungus Fusarium oxysporum, often referred to as Fusarium wilt, is particularly dangerous for mimosa trees as it clogs the water and sap-bearing tissue of the tree. It could be in your interest to establish this type of fungus. However, I would recommend researching this further.
Spread Fungi? Someone wants to turn The last of us into reality!
That would work, but the roots would not be in the soil anymore
Spikey Bushes may be a mess. But a trove of blackberrys in summer. Never saw you do anything with them. Blackberry jam is delicious.
Also that triton in the water meants is potable an high quality.
Gorse don't make blackberries. But yes, if there are berries they could be exploited.
I have asked questions - in the past - about keeping bees for honey . Honey can be used to brew mead - blackberries add a nice berry note to
many fermented beverages , including mead . I am a former brewer and beer historian . A small farmstead brewery has significant history by
giving the farm workers a refreshing ( low alcohol ) refreshment during the hot work day .
You could plant your garden downhill from the tank, and run a few pipes from the tank to the garden
Hello, I enjoyed the timelapse of the stakes being driven into the ground, where the stakes appear to be moving without being struck by the hammer. +1 to the video editor(s)!
If you want to drain the reservoir completely and keep it dry while you work on it, you can set up a siphon with a garden hose. One end in the pool you made with the little dam, and the other below the in a bucket below the big reservoir. make sure the top of the rim of the bucket is below the bottom of the big reservior, and all the water will flow through this bypass. I did this all the time to drain a hottub, and vacuum out the bottom
Whenever I've removed stumps I just got a metal fire ring (normally a 55 gallon drum with the bottom cut off. Then I would just make a fire in the barrel on top of the stumps. Not sure if this is an option where ya'll are located. But it definitely works.
Put a burn barrel over stumps and have a little bonfire. It is local, burns the roots and doesn't disturb the entire soil.
For killing off tree stumps i put a steel can over the stump to block the light. The tree stump wastes its latent energy trying to push up shoots which without light do not replace the lost energy coming out of the roots. Use soft drink or food cans, 1 or 2 litre coffee cans, 20 litre metal Paint drums and 200 litre metal fuel drums
@@SuperSrjones good idea!
I'm hoping for the wood chip method 🤞
No sourcing epsom salt, wool, or twine, no messing with drilling or grinding, and on a large scale, no fussing with logs and stakes. Chip up the trees you just cut down (it looks like you're doing that anyway) and spread them thickly over the area. Makes a decent walking surface, protects the soil, fire-resistant once it is damp from rain/groundwater, breaks down into compost. Easy peasy!
A potential sixth method: one or two layers of cardboard with a wheelbarrows worth of woodchips on top to weigh it down.
This has worked very effectively to block out sun and trap moisture encouraging rot. Could use anything like plywood or metal sheet or even plastic tarp but cardboard is safest and readily available and usually free
quick tip: Use the mud from the bottom of the bassin to fertilise the soil. It contains a lot of compost and minerals that will super-😃boost your garden and holds water in the ground. Greetings Douwe.
You should collect the wool, wash it and use it as sustainable building insulation for your next builds. if you don't remove the oils its water resistant and also anti-bacterial. Also agree with the other comments, get a wood chipper and stum grinder. if you had to do the salt methods for all the trees you cut down surely the salt would wreck the soil.
The best and easiest way to remove the stumps is by far the excavator/dozzer. It pulls out almost everything and tilling the soil is the best as it gets oxygen back into the soil. I’m sure you have better things to do with your time than to wait a year! to see if these “alternative” ways work. In the mean time you could be using all of the land that has been cleared with the dozzer.
A copper nail in each stump will kill the stumps and stop re-growth, once dead you can get the nails back.
how large do the nails have to be
Great idea. Google says you use nails that are 3” long and 1/8” in diameter. The copper robs the tree of nutrients and water, killing the stump over time.
@@datagrl so 3" is enough.
I have to be honest and say that I'm afraid the mimosa will grow far too quickly for this method
Alana is great! I'm enjoying the amateur scientific experimentation and her clear explanations!
Also love seeing another salamander! Please ensure there is still plentiful habitat for them, if not more, with all the work you're doing!
Protection against the 0 venomous water snakes of portugal but lacking PPE vs chainsaw :-D
Newsflash snakes dont have to be "water" snakes to go in water
alot of those spiky bushes were wild roses by the way. might be a native. could take a small clump for the garden yall have. having a full understory and mid-story of native diverse plants and ground covers would help suppress the invasives and in time assist you guys in keeping the land clear and help keep land moist and recharge the aquifer.
also on my land, when i gotta deal with stump clusters i use large branches or logs around in an alternating pattern , no need to steak or support the walls , the soil and plants will do that. and then fill with dirt, top off with mulch and you have a new raised bed garden . havent had any come up, but my log retaining walls sometimes do, so maybe dont use fresh logs for the walls
roots from plants, worms, soil and water will break that stump apart and you can plant and protect a native plant in its own garden bed.
"Watch this half hour video to see us fix a basin and remove roots"
That was a half hour well spent
its usefull info, if you cant replace the soil with new soil to minimize damaging the aoil by removing the stomps with machine. I will still remove them with machine and put alot of new compost soil on it
Technically, the basin is still broken, but oh well. The important thing is that Dave was there.
@@klm20079They didn't do the two things they said they were going to do. Maybe you got something out of it but I sure didn't
This is quite interesting. I have just got a property with a heap of trees I need to get rid of. I can afford someone to chop them down but maybe not to grind the stumps out. These ways might help me rot the stumps.
Please update us on these experiments. 🎉❤
All that wool could be turned into great project kamp merch.
Would give the local economy a boost
Bring in 1-2 people on site to help make/spin wool OR could hire a local company to do it.
Wool preparation is big undertaking, and not all wool is useable. It’s not like you can just pick up the fleece and start working on it. Also it takes quite a lot of specialised skills and equipment to make a usable item, and most people these days don’t know how of have the time of inclination, to look after woollen clothing and household items. Just from the look of the fleece on the ground it seems like a fairly short staple which is more difficult to work with even for experienced spinners. Speaking here from 40+ years of spinning experience
@@helenvann3506 thanks for educating me, I didn’t know that.
@@rafaelv9957 it’s an incredibly specialised craft and also unbelievably time consuming. I’m knitting myself a pullover from yarn I spun from pre-prepared wool and I probably would already have spent a week on it and still have a long way to go
Actually, no there would not be enough orders to facilitate hiring people as there has to be a lot of work done and to have an affordable price whilst covering costs no one will buy it
If you've got natural mint there, the soil is probably very fertile! I'd love to see Project Kamp become a regenerative food forest. You can easily and cheaply make some seedballs filled with carefully selected seeds. Low groundcover, sprawling groundcover, flowers, herbs, tall grasses (corn), beans, climbing vines, fruit trees, and tall nut trees could all be scattered strategically to boost diversity and ecosystem health. Plus a lot of productive crops to forage for!
Use an old hose to siphon to clear the water from the basin. Try the siphon in the top spring area to keep bottom part dry so you can seal the basin and add faucets at different heights to drain water or direct the overflow.
Thanks for including the conversation with your neighbor, great idea 💡 Another nice video, fun music to go with it!
20:54 if you use fresh wood from mimosa to use as stakes, these can grow like cuttings for propagation
These looked pretty dry, but you are correct. There are two ways to prevent that though (besides using dried stakes) and that is peeling them and making sure the top end goes in the ground, best to combine all three.
@@apveening I agree - but here 26:02 they look fresh. furthermore, i recommend all the solutions you suggest.
i love the effort you went to for keeping the roots in the ground to rot down and not disturb the fungal communities! still seems super time consuming haha but super interesting either way!!! love from london
Someone else is bound to have said this but if you run a pipe from the temporary dam to the drain hole at the other end and you can have the water bypass the main part of the tank
Excellent suggestion.
If you can access into the water source, you should drain it as much as you can as it will most likely fill up in the next day or two. Dry out and clean the water storage completely, then pour concrete to water a water tight seal. The pipe inside that stands up is an overflow pipe it can be proped up to any certain level that you want the water at. During summer, when the water table drops, it would be ideally when you should do the repairs. As you have said, it would be dry and allow you to work without worrying about water flow affecting the drying concrete. With the holes, I would suggest making a wooden plug to gently hammer into the pipe to seal it.
25:19 Be careful when you are doing this part because if the chainsaw chain goes in the soil it will blunt it a lot and make it more prone to kickback. You should definitely have some protective gear, not just normal trousers, they will not help much. Spending a few hundred euros on protective gear is definitely a good investment as it could save you from serious injury, vision loss/damage (from things flying into eyes) or even death (from bleeding out from femoral artery (you could loose all your blood in a matter of minutes)).
Also chainsaw chains should be sharpened and replaced routinely.
If you had a small tractor you could get and auger attachment and completely drill out and mulch those stumps in seconds. Much safer, faster, and easier than using a stump grinder and you won't end up flinging stuff everywhere.
Alternatively, you could get a steel barrel, cut off the top/bottom, put it around the stump, and burn it out. Just not in the dry season...
Im surprised you guys never erected a water tower.
An oil tank for home heating, run you maybe 450 euros. For a thousand litre container.
Hoist it up on a scaffold.
1000 litres isnt as much as people might think but between that and your well, could help during the drier seasons.
Even just putting the tank on a particularly high bit of ground near your water source would be sufficient.
Plus even if you don't want to use it for cooking or cleaning.
Really wouldnt be difficult to rig up a small hydro-electric system. Use the tank as a gravity battery for clean environmentally friendly power storage.
WoW, Dave is working very hard all alone. One man project, one project.
For your basin you can use a product that is called liquid rubber for pond sealing, there are several brands. It is extremely strong, non toxic, and you can brush it on the inner walls and the cracks from the basin. They also sell reinforcement patches which you can apply at larger cracks. There are videos about liquid rubber. If stones are missing it is best practice to fill those large gaps first with some cement. And after that you can apply the liquid rubber, then apply a reinforcement patch, and then brush the patch again with the liquid rubber product. It can stretch about 200 times before it punctures. You can also repair the holes from the bulkhead fittings with the same product. Again, it is extremely strong and durable and UV resistant and non toxic, and it is made for this exact purpose. It will not leach toxic solvents. It will last forever, and it is very easy to apply.
If you want to have a dry basin you can pump the water away in front of the small dam that you made. You can also use a pond vacuum cleaner. It can handle some level of mud. I recently bought one from Aquaforte. It is not too expensive and it works really well. You can also do dry vacuum cleaning, and indoor and outdoor wet vacuum cleaning with the same cleaner, so it is multi functional.
Buy a stump grinder. If you buy a backhoe or tractor you can buy this as an add on. Or rent a stump grinder for a couple of days
me watching you guys putting salt on the stomps thinking "Cartago delenda est!"
That metal thing is called A sickle. It’s basically a small scythe. It has a similar purpose
Are there reasons that you aren't using goats to help clear the land? It seems like that method would be faster. Some species of pigs are good for clearing the overgrown timber areas as well. Also, pigs tend to urinate in the same spots over and over, generally at the base of a tree, which is known to kill the tree. I don't know but I would guess human urine would do the same thing. An endless resource , if it worked.
Animals require fencing but there's really good solar powered electric fencing available. Contain the animals to small areas to clean up the overgrowth and rotate as needed.
Aren't eletrical fences a fire hazard?
@@carddamom188 no you can touch one. It will really hurt by safe and safe for fire, they could spell something I like, but it’s rare
I love to think one of the editors is just whistling that track and adding on in post hahaha
Also for your little basin situation you build a slamm dam like already and put a waterpump down in there so push all the water somewhere else temporarily. alternatively, you build a little dam over a pipe and run the pupe outside the basin to move the water trough before its able to start building up :)
Also you can get stump remover tools :D
In Texas, also called a "tank."
Think about using the wool for textile production...carding, spinning, weaving. That is a great resource for PK.
the never ending pipes 😂
The amount of salts you will need with these methods on a large scale is massive, and with that much addition of microelements and salts it will absolutely mess with your soil. Mulch will work for a year or so till the mulch breaks down, mimosas are very vigorous as you already know. Also your site is too large to supply such a quantity to be effective even if you mulch every tree, especially after year one of treatment.
You have an excavator on the way, I suggest you buy a stump grinder attachment and be done with the stump management i believe there was a little extra in the gofundme that could be a start towards it maybe? You have so many more worthwhile projects to spend your time on!
The more trees you clear , the bigger the stump management will become. If you choose massively labour, chemical or material intensive methods you will become slaves to the stumps. I have cleared many many acres of pittosporum undulatum in my country and have found over years of doing so that there is no substitute for mechanical removal. Stump grinders really only effect the soil relatively around the stump and is considerably less damaging to the surrounding area, not to mention it instantly adds organic matter back into the ground as you go. win win win.
I love watching you guys learn your way through the issues on Project Kamp, but I feel you dont need to reinvent the wheel with this.
However if you are to persist with the epson salts, if you dissolve the salts in water before you add them to the stumps, it will save you some time. Also, greater coverage with the tarps will eliminate more air and light reaching the stumps and discourage them returning .
Lots of Love from Australia.
Everytime I hear “spikey booshes” I smile a bit. 😂
omg same!!! i don't know how they caught on to the meme??
100%
@@vijay20 In one video they said that if a comment saying "we want spikey booshes merch" got more than a thousand likes, they would make some merch. The rest is history haha
Wow Dave gets the best jobs, so fun to empty out the mud and find ancient treasures!
I love ALL Project Kamp videos!
I loved your interaction with the sheep farmer. You're so genuine, thank you for this channel. Gives me peace in times of darkness
I love the way you guys think / act, but please, get a stump grinder. The trees are growing faster then you guys clean up stumps this way 🙂
A propane torch and scorch/char out smaller stumps. We did that for our backyard and cabin land. A propane tank like you use on a grill and torch will be helpful in other ways. But I do beg, invest in chainsaw chaps. I see the PPE used for the trimmers but then lack of it with the chainsaw is a disaster waiting to happen.
"Let's use PPE for this relatively safe weed whacker, but completely ignore them for this artery ripping chainsaw. We may acquire some useful insight to share in the research module"
Wow, what timing!, I just got home from my first day of school to see this came out fifteen seconds ago!
You start school the first week of August? Damn where do you live, that sounds like hell
@@ElenaNoiiaDepending on the situation, this may be the right decision. But otherwise it's cursed.
@@ElenaNoiia They also start their summer break a month earlier than others, hence the "early" start
That curved metal thing you found in the water is a Sickle, a hand tool for cutting grass and small plants.
Probably want to add some water to speed up the mulch breakdown/ helpful bacteria funghi growth. 💫 Would also love a deep dive on the spikey booshes: what species do you have to contend with?
I suggest you build a small wall just behind where you have the piece of wood stuck, you leave one small area in the center at the bottom open, so the water can continue to flow, then build the wall up to the top with some block and put a hose cemented in half way up, then use a small amount of a special water proof cement to plug the bottom hole, put another piece of wood with some silicone on the inside just to protect it from the building water pressure while the cement cures, and now you have all the water diverted and can easily clean and repair the entire area, once you are done, you can just remove the plug in the bottom and leave the wall, so you have a way already to perform repairs.
also you could just cut it close to the ground and then give it a few deep cuts down into the stump so that the cuts will hold water and make the stump rot.
@@maxejnar9934 i think mimosa will still sprout from that.
The digger doesn't have a bad effect in the long term, if the dirt is not compressed, you also have to nourish the dirt with compost and mulch after, but. Otherwise the nature is really resilient 😉
Wool is fantastic for older seedlings / plants. Dig a hole, fill with water. Put wool into the hole and then plant directly ontop of the wool. It has been my go to for tomatoes especially!
It's enjoyable to see Dave getting dirty. I know everyone there is busy doing things there each and every day. You have a pretty good following, but, I believe you'd have more with two episodes per week. I know it may take from the goals on hand though. Otherwise, I wish I could be there to help you all with those projects.
I think that other members of project wouldn't like that much. They like their privacy
@@deusvult8808 It's not as if I'm talking about live webcams placed around the camp where people can watch 24 hours a day.
@@xavery7842 Watch last q&a (last episode ending with 8) and someone asked same question. I am sorry I mixed things, because someone asked for 24/7 live camera, and I mixed their answer to it and their answer to more videos.
I can't remember the name of that tough-as-nails blonde from Project Kamp. She's awesome, just like Adrian and Dave
Have you considered using mycelium for stumps? I've used turkey tail staves hammered into stumps to inoculate the wood with mycelium.
Great work!