Well done man!! I just bought a barn find Yamaha Twin Jet 1971 HS1-B 90cc two stroke all original and untouched for the last 30 years. I have pulled the top end and Carbs off and cleaned them in an ultrasonic parts cleaner and cleaned all of the rust from the tank and coated it with POR15 sealer and it looks great. The fenders rims and pipes are in need of restoration. The spokes look like the spokes on your bike and the hubs are full and crusty begging for a blasting. First I want to get it running and rideable. Then tackle the cosmetics. It’s a great little bike. I love old two strokes from 70’s and I’m going to teach my daughters how to ride on this bike. Good video, nice work!! Cheers!!👍
Thanks mate for the kind words. 70’s 2 strokes are my favourite also, I have a few of them and are my go to bikes when I want a bit of fun. And it’s very satisfying when you end up with a nice looking bike that you’ve built and cleaned up yourself. Thanks for watching, Craig
Great video. I’m restoring a CT110 and will now reuse my spokes instead of buying new. I have 2 sets to do so will be good practice before I do some bigger more expensive wheels. Thanks mate. 👍🇦🇺💪
I've just today laced 2 new rims for my 750four. My first crack at doing this and it ended ok after some frustration events. I followed a sequence from the valve hole LI, RO, RI, LO, or something like that. Of course loading just the inside spokes first. I copied that sequence from the old wheel. I have in the past treated rusty rims like those using a wire wheel and 'rust converter' with excellent results. I was also advised to use Nevaseize or similar on the threads, and in the rim dimples where the nipples go. Seems like good advice to me. Great video, thanks for putting it up.
I've not done this before but have stripped a set of wheels recently because they need refurbing and you've confirmed all my reasoning behind doing this is sound particularly reusing the spokes by replating them. Your footage of how you relace is really informative, I feel ready to have a go now!
Hey thanks for the kind words. Most important part of relacing is put all the inside spokes in first and point them in their right direction before screwing the nipples on. Cheers Craig
Fantastic video really clear and well explained Ive got a 2004 rv125 van van with scabby spokes so im tempted to have a go at fitting new stainless ones to spruce it up
This was what I was looking for Craig after tearing down my 73 cb200 wheels and seeing rust on the inside of the rim so thanks for sharing the repair on that. My spokes are also in need of replating and want to know if you have a separate nickel plating video on this process. Again great video and thanks for posting.
Thanks for the kind words. Making videos is a bit of fun and it’s good to know some people get something from them. I will be resurrecting my nickel plating kit in the coming months as I have some stuff that needs to be nickel plated. I’ll try and put a video together on that when I get there. Cheers Craig
Good one mate , I have to learn on a 750 norton, a gl1000 and maybe a triumph T160, mainly because I want to polish all my hubs, I've got stainless spokes ,will use anti seize , they look great all finished .Cheers.
Looks good, it helps when the wheel you start of with is already pretty good. Ive done a few wheels, yeah new spokes are expensive, but unless youve got access to all the gear you have and a spare entire afternoon and evening, a $300 spoke set becomes pretty cheap
Yes I agree it is a time consuming task. I just like tinkering and sometimes a couple of spoke sets can cost you more than a bike is worth. Cheers Craig
@@BendigoHydroblasting I like tinkering too, hence why I'm here. Yeah spokes can get expensive, old honda's are pretty good though like that...most the time... Take care
A question - I have old DDR bike that I'm restoring. As far as I know spokes are nickel plated, not zinc plated, are those spokes originally zinc plated?
To be honest I don’t know whether these were originally zinc or nickel. I nickel plated the spokes on the rear wheel about 15 years ago and they’ve held up alright. Nickel plating takes a bit more effort as you have to heat the solution somewhat and I no longer have a solution. I did this with what I had available. Cheers Craig
Hi Mate, A question. While it is on the truing stand do you also check the other side of the rim, thinking, like you say maybe hit a pothole and became distorted.
Nickel certainly looks better and holds its lustre longer. It’s a tad more complex as you need to heat the solution while plating. The one set I did nickel plate I had a couple of issues with the nickel on the nipples flaking when tightening them. Probably just poor prep on my part.
Final tension on the spokes to make sure they are all pulled up tight. Gets an even tightness without pulling the wheel out of shape. Thanks for watching mate. Cheers Craig
What can I do if I didnt measure the offset before removing the old spokes? Do all motorbikes have an offset? I cant find any mention of it in the manual, only the horizontal and vertical buckle tolerances
Hi Ewan. I never really measure for an offset. Most wheels are centred. If a wheel is off set the manufacturer will have designed this into the spoke lengths. So if your new spokes are the same length as your old ones it should pull up to where it is supposed to be. As long as you use the exposed threads from the nipples as an indicator during the initial tightening process you shouldn’t have a problem. Cheers Craig
@@BendigoHydroblasting Thanks a lot for the help, I've not been able to find anything on this really online. As my spokes are all the same length I'll keep an eye on the spoke threads. Thanks!
Well done man!! I just bought a barn find Yamaha Twin Jet 1971 HS1-B 90cc two stroke all original and untouched for the last 30 years. I have pulled the top end and Carbs off and cleaned them in an ultrasonic parts cleaner and cleaned all of the rust from the tank and coated it with POR15 sealer and it looks great. The fenders rims and pipes are in need of restoration. The spokes look like the spokes on your bike and the hubs are full and crusty begging for a blasting. First I want to get it running and rideable. Then tackle the cosmetics. It’s a great little bike. I love old two strokes from 70’s and I’m going to teach my daughters how to ride on this bike. Good video, nice work!! Cheers!!👍
Thanks mate for the kind words. 70’s 2 strokes are my favourite also, I have a few of them and are my go to bikes when I want a bit of fun. And it’s very satisfying when you end up with a nice looking bike that you’ve built and cleaned up yourself. Thanks for watching, Craig
Very entertaining and informative , looks like you've got all the tools and skills for most jobs,.
Old mechanic by trade so I’ve accumulated a fair bit of shit over the years 😊
Brilliant video, made me laugh a couple if times. I've relaced wheels in the past and that's the way I done it, and it worked. Thanks again. 👍
Thanks for tuning in. Cheers Craig
Great video. I’m restoring a CT110 and will now reuse my spokes instead of buying new. I have 2 sets to do so will be good practice before I do some bigger more expensive wheels. Thanks mate. 👍🇦🇺💪
Thanks for the kind words. You’ll never know if ya don’t give it a go 👍
Think I'll just get a six pack to start with. Great video thanks
😂😂
Nice one Craig! 👍
Thanks for watching mate 👍
I've just today laced 2 new rims for my 750four. My first crack at doing this and it ended ok after some frustration events. I followed a sequence from the valve hole LI, RO, RI, LO, or something like that. Of course loading just the inside spokes first. I copied that sequence from the old wheel.
I have in the past treated rusty rims like those using a wire wheel and 'rust converter' with excellent results.
I was also advised to use Nevaseize or similar on the threads, and in the rim dimples where the nipples go. Seems like good advice to me.
Great video, thanks for putting it up.
And thankyou for tuning in 👍
I've not done this before but have stripped a set of wheels recently because they need refurbing and you've confirmed all my reasoning behind doing this is sound particularly reusing the spokes by replating them. Your footage of how you relace is really informative, I feel ready to have a go now!
Hey thanks for the kind words. Most important part of relacing is put all the inside spokes in first and point them in their right direction before screwing the nipples on. Cheers Craig
That right there ^
Fantastic video really clear and well explained
Ive got a 2004 rv125 van van with scabby spokes so im tempted to have a go at fitting new stainless ones to spruce it up
Thanks mate. Take a few pics and give it a go. It really isn’t that hard 👍. Cheers Craig
This was what I was looking for Craig after tearing down my 73 cb200 wheels and seeing rust on the inside of the rim so thanks for sharing the repair on that. My spokes are also in need of replating and want to know if you have a separate nickel plating video on this process. Again great video and thanks for posting.
Thanks for the kind words. Making videos is a bit of fun and it’s good to know some people get something from them. I will be resurrecting my nickel plating kit in the coming months as I have some stuff that needs to be nickel plated. I’ll try and put a video together on that when I get there. Cheers Craig
Good one mate , I have to learn on a 750 norton, a gl1000 and maybe a triumph T160, mainly because I want to polish all my hubs, I've got stainless spokes ,will use anti seize , they look great all finished .Cheers.
Thanks mate. It takes a bit of time for a start but it really isn’t that hard when you get your head around it. Cheers Craig
Looks good, it helps when the wheel you start of with is already pretty good. Ive done a few wheels, yeah new spokes are expensive, but unless youve got access to all the gear you have and a spare entire afternoon and evening, a $300 spoke set becomes pretty cheap
Yes I agree it is a time consuming task. I just like tinkering and sometimes a couple of spoke sets can cost you more than a bike is worth. Cheers Craig
@@BendigoHydroblasting I like tinkering too, hence why I'm here. Yeah spokes can get expensive, old honda's are pretty good though like that...most the time... Take care
Great Job mate, thats as good as it gets
Awesome stuff Craig.
Thanks for tuning in 👍
A question - I have old DDR bike that I'm restoring. As far as I know spokes are nickel plated, not zinc plated, are those spokes originally zinc plated?
To be honest I don’t know whether these were originally zinc or nickel. I nickel plated the spokes on the rear wheel about 15 years ago and they’ve held up alright. Nickel plating takes a bit more effort as you have to heat the solution somewhat and I no longer have a solution. I did this with what I had available. Cheers Craig
Great video. What the best wat to remove chrome from a wheels
No easy way to remove chrome. I always revert to finding a good second hand one.
Hi Mate,
A question.
While it is on the truing stand do you also check the other side of the rim, thinking, like you say maybe hit a pothole and became distorted.
@@johndoyle5478 sometimes I do if there is a noticeable deflection but usually I only work from one side. Cheers Craig
@@BendigoHydroblasting Hi Craig,
Thank you for your reply and information mate.
Nice work Craig - that surface gauge looks vaguely familiar 👍
Thanks Steve. It probably looks very similar to yours 🙂
Superb 👌
Lol thanks for the positive word. Always nice to hear a good response from someone who knows their stuff👍👍
Excellent work and results. What's your thought on zinc vs. nickel plating for fasteners and spokes?
Nickel certainly looks better and holds its lustre longer. It’s a tad more complex as you need to heat the solution while plating. The one set I did nickel plate I had a couple of issues with the nickel on the nipples flaking when tightening them. Probably just poor prep on my part.
Very interesting. Thank you. So, Nickel is a little fussier to apply but Zinc looks superb and your dye process is very unique.@@BendigoHydroblasting
I don't understand the very last bit. After the wheel was true in side to side and up and down... you did what? Tightened some more?
Final tension on the spokes to make sure they are all pulled up tight. Gets an even tightness without pulling the wheel out of shape. Thanks for watching mate. Cheers Craig
What can I do if I didnt measure the offset before removing the old spokes? Do all motorbikes have an offset? I cant find any mention of it in the manual, only the horizontal and vertical buckle tolerances
Hi Ewan. I never really measure for an offset. Most wheels are centred. If a wheel is off set the manufacturer will have designed this into the spoke lengths. So if your new spokes are the same length as your old ones it should pull up to where it is supposed to be. As long as you use the exposed threads from the nipples as an indicator during the initial tightening process you shouldn’t have a problem. Cheers Craig
@@BendigoHydroblasting Thanks a lot for the help, I've not been able to find anything on this really online. As my spokes are all the same length I'll keep an eye on the spoke threads. Thanks!
You lucky bastard.😂
What is the zinc concoction you used ?
It’s a mix I purchased from a plating supplier here called Jane kits. Don’t know whats in it but it works. Thanks for tuning in. Cheers Craig
I bought 40 stainless spokes for my 65 Thunderbird at $6 each and I thought that was a fortune. Honda's dearer than that,ouch?
Lol yeah and to get them I’d probably have to freight them to Oz from England 🙁
Did you get the spokes that shiny right out of the plating soup? My plating comes out all dull.
Yes. The kit comes with a brightening agent which needs to be added from time to time. Without this they will certainly plate dull. Cheers Craig
👍👍👍
Thankyou for watching my video ❤️❤️