Used Motorcycle Rehab - Installing the Trail Tech Vapor - SV650 Episode 9
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- In this episode of Used Motorcycle Rehab, we'll replace the janky no-name eBay gauge cluster that the bike came to us with with a much nicer Trail Tech Vapor digital gauge cluster. The install is not a terribly difficult job mechanically, but because it's a semi-universal part, the electrical wiring requires a little bit of work.
Glad I caught this video, a few months back I picked up a 2002 SV650, it was originally an S model but the guy laid her down at 55mph or at least that's what he claimed. There wasn't anything left to save of the front fairing so I used it as a chance to convert into an N model. Nearly done but the original tach just doesn't look good on a N model, so I'm wanting to buy this set up, and seeing you do it helps make that a positive purchase
I'm glad it helped you out. I liked everything about it except the tachometer, which was always a little sketch. There's an older version of the vapor that has two wires (one being a ground) for the tach that I suspect works better, but the version I had only had one. I suspect that has more to do with the bike than the gauge, though.
If you don't get the SV650-specific version of the kit, there's a different coolant sensor you need that comes installed in a little section of pipe. I made a follow up to this video later where I installed that. Link here:
ruclips.net/video/rbrvdycamJk/видео.html
I wish you made this video like...5 years ago lol. Really good video. I may redo my wiring for my trailtech vapor on my '02 now lol. I forget exactly how I wired my tach wire to the rear cylinder coil, however it has worked for years with a split second lag if you blip the throttle and ppr set to 0.
Thanks, man. There are two versions of the Vapor, with the one I used in the video being the newer one. On the older version, there appears to be a dedicated ground wire for the tach signal which was removed in the newer version, and I think that makes a big difference on this bike with respect to electrical noise in the signal.
Just dumped my 01 naked, cluster shattered. Will likely be coming back to this video a lot.
Oof, that sucks. I hope this helps you get it back on the road!
Thank you so much for making this video!!! I'm probably gonna end up going with a vapor gauge and I'm sure this vid is gonna come in handy.
I gave up on neutral and low fuel, just did high beam and turn signals, used the forth for my accessories plug, damn bracket I had to modify to fit the lights also, but got it done
Great video. I've been looking to update a lack luster 2009 ER6N gauge. Revzilla said the Trail Techs wouldn't work, but perhaps but perhaps it wouldn't be much different than this.
Thanks! I don't think I'd try this on a fuel injected bike if using the stock gauge is an option, though. It's better than the crummy analog gauges that bikes from the 1990s came with, but the tach doesn't work terribly well, and you'd probably lose some of the indicator lights.
Also, you'd lose the odometer, which a buddy of mine recently pointed out to me is likely to be a problem when it's time to sell, as a lot of buyers are really angsty about the mileage.
@@AaronAverett Thanks for the quick reply. Perhaps I'll just try and convert a gauge from a Ninja 650.
You might also look at Koso. I think if I had to do it again, I'd maybe use a Koso gauge, as they seem to be more street oriented. I think the Vapor is mainly meant for dirt bikes, so it has features like a Hobbs meter that are interesting, but not terribly useful to a roadgoing bike. Koso has a model that looks a lot like the gauge that comes with an XSR900 - I debated using that one, but figured the Vapor would be more interesting to most people, since it's the go-to.
In your position, I'd try to keep the stock gauge, though, so I could claim that the odometer is correct. Looking at a picture, it does look a little dorky, though. I totally get why you'd want to change it.
While looking for random peoples sv builds I stumbled apon this video. It's cool to see someone make a video on this. When I did my gauge swap I just got a I believe 16 pin connector that plugged in to the factory harness since I didn't wanna cut anything on there. After finding a diagram it was so straightforward to get all the lights working that I didn't understand why everyone on the sv rider forum had trouble with it. Only bulb I didn't run as led was the fuel light. That was also in 2013 when I did that. My next sv build I'm about to do is definitely going to get a different Guage brand since I realized I didn't need the tach. Just speed, fuel, blinker and brights. This Guage had a problem with getting moisture inside it.
Thanks for chiming in! Are you sure you had a real Trail Tech gauge? I've never seen it, but there is supposedly a version of the kit that is specific to the SV650, and maybe that just has the right connector, but I've never heard of them just plugging right in to the factory harness. My kit was not specific to the SV650, so I obviously had to splice all the wires.
I think the a lot of the problems folks have with this is that about half of the circuits you have to connect to are switched on the high side, and half on the low side, and you have to figure this out on your own, since the kit is universal. It took me a couple of hours to get exactly how I wanted to arrange all the wires figured out, since the little indicator board makes you share wires between some of them, and there aren't enough spots to replace all of the stock lights.
And I agree, I think if I were doing this again, I'd try the round Koso one that looks kind of like the gauge on theX SR900.
@@AaronAverett yep it was a real trail tech. I forgot what made it sv specific but it wasn't much. I believe it was just the temp sensor. The plug I had to find from another website that sold plugs that fit in to the factory harness and just had to wire accordingly for it to be plug and play. I wish I could show you a picture of what I did with my light kit. I just ordered that and threw out the plastic housing for the lights and made one up on a cnc mill that was truly beautiful.
If you have the ability to CNC your own little mounting plate, your ability probably exceeds that of most people, myself included. It sounds like you did an unusually thorough job, which is commendable.
You should totally make a series of videos about what you've done to your SV. Given how thorough you apparently are, I'd watch the heck out of that. You can accomplish a lot with just a cell phone, but if you're anywhere near central Texas, maybe we could collab.
@@AaronAverett I'd easily make another if I had access to a cnc mill again. Not in that profession anymore lol. Though I am in Houston also, are there any forums you're on or Twitter? I don't have that sv I did all of this work on but like I said, just got another sv not long ago that's about to get a ton of work because while I did everything decently on the last build there's also alot of things I'd do differently. I had an 05 gen 2 and got the same bike and year again.
I'm on Twitter as @AaronRAverett. I'm in the Austin area, but I have some family in Houston. It wouldn't be out of the question to get together and make some videos of your build, if that were something you felt like doing.
legend, very helpful video for fixing the rpm
Thx for the very clear instructions! helped me a bunch to get my "new" SV up n running =]
I also noticed you have a radiator protector, mind sharing wich one it is as i cant seem to find any that are made for my gen 1 sv
If you mean the silver metal things on the end of the radiator, those are stock. Here's the Suzuki part - still available, apparently.
www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/17761-19F00?ref=d6cd8a90e44d89ce0d55ef953cb08164254b5c85
I think they're mostly decorative, but I guess they should offer a little protection if the bike tipped over.
Hi, really useful - should get my vapor cluster in a couple of days. Can I please check why the Reed switch was required?
Thanks in advance 😁
Also I might bug you with other questions later on if I get stuck
The reed switch is the sensor that tells the gauge how fast you're going. It's like a button that gets pressed every time the magnet on the wheel passes by it. The gauge can then use the time between button presses to figure out how fast the bike is going.
The stock speedometer sensor is a different type, and isn't compatible with the Vapor, so you need to reed switch to get the Vapor's speedometer reading working.
Could you have soldered a resistor inline on the tach lead to correct the signal?
Hi, i liked your content and are looking for good USED functioning trail tech Vapor unit for my xt here in Kenya but electrical stuff are untrustworthy when shipping from far away unless someone assist at point of sale. how could you help me in this matter? -paul
Great video. Question, what type of diodes its need it? Thanks for sharing
It's been a while, but I believe the diodes I used here are Schottky type. You can use pretty much anything with a reverse voltage greater than 15V and a current rating above 3 or 4 amps, though. This is a super simple application.
Something like this should work.
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/micro-commercial-co/SR305-TP/1793275
Does it has a gear indicator?
I’m looking to update my cluster for my Yamaha mot03 2013 as my old one is cracked and I like the digital look. Will this fit my bike and how much work do you think I need! Btw great video glad I can across this video as I was about to get an eBay cluster!
I can't find much info on the MT-03 prior to the current generation, since they didn't sell those here in the US, but...
If your bike is carbureted, it will definitely work, but you'll likely need to make a bracket to mount it, and you'll obviously also need to wire it up. If the bike is fuel injected, it will probably still work, but the wiring may be more difficult, particularly for all the indicator lights. You'd have to consult the wiring diagram to tell for sure.
I have a grounded out gauge cluster on my 2005 Triumph speed triple 1050 any advice would help. Great video btw
That's a cool bike - you clearly have excellent taste. I assume it's fuel injected though, which means that converting to the Vapor would be an awful lot of trouble. Also, I didn't really love the Vapor. If I had this to do again, I'm not sure I'd go that route, even on the SV.
Instead, I'd try to get the original gauge working again. First step is to determine whether your short to ground is in the wiring or the gauge itself. You can test for this by disconnecting the gauge from the wiring harness and testing for continuity to the ground wire(s) from each of the other wires. If you have continuity between them with the gauge removed, then you know that your problem is somewhere in the wiring or a switch or something, and you can start hunting that down. The wiring diagram from the service manual will make this much easier.
If you can't find any faults in the wiring, then your problem is likely inside the gauge itself. It probably is possible to repair if you know what you're doing, but the easy route is likely to just replace it with a functional one from eBay in that case.
Great video! I have a quick question, I hooked up my cluster per your schematic, but the engine oil light isn't lighting up on my cluster. Any advice would be much appreciated!
I have a 99 SV650 naked.
@@bjudd11 Possibly dumb question, but are you using the incandescent lamps like I used, or the LEDs? If you're using the LEDs, make sure you have the polarity right.
Barring that, what I would do first is get out a volt meter and check to make sure that, with the key on, engine off, you have +12V to ground on that wire. If not, troubleshoot that circuit. Depending on exactly how you wired it up, you probably have at least two places for the wire to be disconnected between the sender and the lamp. Check each one, making your way back to the sender itself until you find 12V, and then repair whatever broken connection you find. Don't forget to check the sender itself - it's the sensor mounted on the front of the engine, near the oil filter. I think I pointed it out in the video.
@@AaronAverett Thank you so much for the reply! I tried both the leds with the correct polarity, and the incandescent bulbs. All the other lights function as they should, but the oil light isn't being very co-operative lol. Thank you again for the reply!
Actually, I went back and looked at the video again, and I was mistaken before. If you did your wiring exactly like I did mine, you should have an orange wire and a green wire going to the oil pressure light. You should have +12V on the green wire whenever the key is on. On the orange wire, you should have continuity to ground with the engine off, and no continuity with the engine running. Test for both of these conditions and see which one is missing - that should point you in the right direction.
The neutral light works this same way, so if that's working, you problem is likely that your ground (orange) side is not actually wired up to the oil sender for some reason.
hello, when you installed the Dashboard, you had to add some electrical resistance so that the indicator LEDs are not burned, or you connected it directly
Do not use resistors. The LEDs that come with the kit actually have resistors built into them, but it also comes with incandescent bulbs, which would be way too dim if you put a resistor in series with them. I used the incandescent bulbs.
You do need the diodes, though, if you're setting it up like I did with a single turn signal indicator on the dash for both directions.
Tanks 👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻
Thank you for the video and knowledge I’m making a naked bike out of a free 03 Suzuki AN650 burgman it is fuel injected but I have good wiring diagram and factory manual you think trail tech can work ????? Appreciate any feedback thanks !!!!
I'm sure you could get the Vapor working. Getting the tach signal might be a problem, if the Burgman has a coil on plug ignition, though. Otherwise, you should be able to just tap into the wires for each circuit.
The real question I would ask is why not just use the original gauge unit? Make a little shroud for it out of aluminum, or just put a small windscreen in front of it, and you save yourself all the trouble of trying to make the fuel injection play nice with the Vapor. That's what I would do, unless the original gauge is so huge and ugly that there's no way to make it look intentional.
Thanks for the quick reply yah since I cut so much things to make it a simple naked bike the original cluster is too big and ugly to try and hide lol, only question I’m thinking is if there is already a tach electrical signal already couldn’t I just attach vapor tach wire to bike tach wire ? Same for digital speedometer already on bike could it go straight to vapor speedometer wire ? Vapor comes in a few days so fun will start soon thanks for the help and time !!!
You may be able to tap into the tach signal, but if your experience is anything like mine, it won't be terribly reliable. You probably can't use the stock speedometer signal. The stock senor is a hall effect type, as opposed to a reed switch, and the frequency is 4X higher. It might be possible to make an adaptor, but it would be much simpler to just use the reed switch that comes with the Vapor.
Aaron, what amp Diodes do I need for the turn signals? Any chance you can link me to something that would work?
Also, why run the power for the Trail Tech to the Orange/Green switched 12V as opposed to the Red 12V?
I'm responding without double checking this against the wiring diagram, so there's a chance I may be wrong about the red wire specifically, but I used the switched 12V because it mimics the behavior of the stock gauge unit. The Vapor has an internal battery that maintains the clock, and it would be "on" all the time if I had hooked it up to the constant 12V wire.
WRT the diodes, you're looking for Schottky diodes rated for 20V or greater reverse voltage and 2 or more amps that you're comfortable soldering (so, probably through-hole mounting, not SMD). Here's an example of one that should work. I think the ones I used, I got from my local Fry's Electronics, which is now out of business.
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/vishay-general-semiconductor-diodes-division/SB330-E3-54/2146206
How'd you get the magnet to stick???
I used the magnet that was installed by the previous owner, which attached to one of the brake rotors. As I recall, it has a little threaded stud that you stick through the holes in the rotor hub, and then thread a nut on the back of it.
Do you remove old tak cable to install?
What size diodes did you use?
How many times did you have to wrap the tach sensor around the coil wire? You did not specify how many times. Was it just one red wire or was there also a black wire that you had to ground off on the frame?
Michael Chan I actually left that out deliberately. I could have made a whole 30 minute video for just the tach wire. The short version is that I never really got the tach working perfectly, but I got the best results by stripping about 18 inches of the insulation off an wrapping all of that around the wire for the aft cylinder. The thing the instructions say, where you only wrap it a couple of times barely worked at all.
Oh, you asked about the tach ground, too. The kit I used is apparently the new type with only one (red) wire. I’ve heard tell that another version exists with a dedicated ground for the tach, which I would expect to help reduce noise in the signal, but I think they don’t offer that version anymore.
Thanks for your reply. I am also having problems to get reliable tach readings. I have tried every conceivable combinations of wire wrapping to get a reliable reading but only on the rear cylinder as the front coil wire is difficult to work with. I have tried from 1 to 10 wraps and all have failed. Like you the only reliable reading is at idle, once I increase the RPMs the readings fluctuate above and below the correct values. My original analog tach still works. Only my Digital LED read out has faded.
That should read "Only my digital LED SPEED read out has faded.
My kit which was recently bought came with both the single wire and the double wire. Trail Tech said that I should use the double wire. I have tried both and neither is satisfactory.
Hiii..can we fit this digital meter to royal Enfields?
If it has a carbureted engine, absolutely. If it has a fuel injected engine, the answer is probably still yes, but it may be a little bit tricky, depending on how the original gauge is wired up.
Hi im from Philippines how can i buy that one.? Me klx user
I got mine from Amazon. There are two parts- one is the gauge itself, here:
www.amazon.com/TRAILTECH-Vapor-Computer-Kit-Motorcycle/dp/B07BYQKSWC
And the other is the "dash," here:
www.amazon.com/Trail-Tech-022-PDA-Indicator-Dashboard/dp/B000TYFY80
In the US, you can also order them directly from Trail Tech at www.trailtech.net/. I don't see a kit specific to the KLX, but they have one for the Kawasaki KLR series. Part number is 752-112.
Hi thank for the video.How did you mount the speed sensor did you have to drill in to the calliper
The speed sensor I used is an aftermarket one that was already installed on the bike when I bought it. It appears to have come with a bracket that attaches to a bolt next to the caliper bolts on the left side fork.
You can see it here in the video I did about changing the tires:
ruclips.net/video/k4cMFenjGMI/видео.html
For those needing to install their own, Trail Tech offers a kit specific to the SV650 that includes a sensor that attaches to the fork with double-sided tape. You can get the speed sensor part separately, too, if you already have a universal gauge kit.
See here:
www.trailtech.net/704-06
If what you mean is the magnet, mine is attached to one of the slots in the spokes of the brake disc on that side.
gentleman? as if no women work on their own bikes?
At the time, the channel metrics really did say that the audience was 100 percent dudes. With that out of the way, please allow me to extend my warmest and sincerest greetings to the ladies in the audience as well.