Thanks Bob. As a new SB9A owner, I have the v-groove pulley, and the belt has seen better days. I want to replace it, but too many videos advise that it's just easier to replace with a generic link-belt. Your walk-through shows its a piece of cake.
I have an old v-belt version of the SB9 and recently broke the original belt. I was going to go with a linkbelt type replacement until I saw it is like $15 a foot. This vid proved that pulling the spindle isn't magic, and that I can go with a standard 5L belt and save a ton of money in the process. Thanks!
Well I just picked up an old 9A and I am in the process of doing a complete overhaul... Wasn't exactly sure how this spindle came out so I figured someone on RUclips Must have done this before me !!! Glad I found your channel... just amazing that 2,961 people viewed this video and I was only the 43rd Person to give you a thumbs up !!!! Great Video Thank you ...
Thanks so much, I have a south bend 9 that has issues that I was afraid to address because I thought it would be nightmare to pull the spindle after watching this video I would be very comfortable doing the job. Excellent video!
Hello Bob ,thank you for sharing the video with us,I have a 72 years old Smart &Brown 9 inch lathe,I believe is a copy of SouthBend, anyway your video gave me the answers For tightening up the Spindle plus the half nut, Full view/ like/ subd Yiannis (Athens Greece)
ChirsB257, Southbend 9's do have varying models of head stocks...some more and less complicated than others. They one in this video is actually, in my opinion, an easier type of head stock to do service work on if they were taken care of. I have one similar which I think is a 405-A model of head stock but the belt doesn't go to a bottom drive system. The ones that I see more than others have the bronze sleeves (bearings) for the shaft, more felt wicks, oils from the lower half of the spindle and yes more complication in disassembly. If you find one in the class of the 405-A in good condition they do make disassembly and assembly a little easier but require more care while operating in terms of keeping them lubricated. Nice thing about SB-9's is most of the head stocks will fit the beds of other SB-9's models so they were good at keeping some commonality among their machines over the years.
Thanks for this quick and helpful video! I just went out and bought an automotive flat belt to replace "Ol' Trusty" and managed to get it onto the drive (motor) end, pulled out the gears and lock ring, but couldn't quite figure out that last step of getting the shaft out. Thanks and I like your idea of a threaded rod to remove and insert the shaft in a simple, damage free way.
Thank you for demystifying the process. I have a slightly different version that developed a knock and didn't know how it came apart. I'm actually more concerned with putting it together and torquing it properly.
In fact you don't need any of this. If you push with you hand, the spindle go out. Imagine that the spindle is free from the bearing!!!! This makes no sense
I was not aware that the small South Bends don't have split bearings, on my 14.5 you just remove the caps and take the spindle out in one piece, but it's quite heavy so you not going to hold it with one hand ....:-)
Thanks, but you may have missed that i uploaded 4 new videos this month so far and 3 in August,... so pretty much normal for what i can handle time wise.
You MIGHT want to check an operator's manual for that lathe and make sure there are supposed to be oil cups there and not grease zerks. OIL is very RARELY used with BUSHINGS where parts are rotating and you'll never keep it "in" because of the lack of viscosity. When ANYTHING - including those bushings - is TURNED IN A LATHE it ends up "threaded" and those tiny threads will screw oil in their direction of travel. I've seen JD PTO shafts leak oil that had to be replaced because they were machined "backward" and with the PTO shaft turning they were screwing oil right out of the seal. LUBRICANTS HAVE TO EITHER BE CHANGED ALL AT ONCE OR "CHANGED" THROUGH LEAKAGE AND REPLENISHMENT. When something LEAKS OIL, there's a reason. Its not sealed. But oil being as thin as it is should NOT leak to the point its being THROWN OUT faster than it can be ADDED. And given the size of those bushings they're GOING TO LEAK OIL FASTER THAN YOU ADD IT. GREASE SEALS WILL "leak" because they have to for grease to "flow" and get where its going in a "greasable" situtation. A "maintenance-free" bearing system like a "sealed" u-joint has its seals "backward" to keep grease in. Regular u-joints get greased until ALL of the caps "leak" and you hear the seals "crack". GREASE should only leak when the bearing is being greased. That's how you know when you've GOT a part greased. When you see NEW grease come out the OLD grease and the contaminants/debris it contains have been flushed out of the bearing. I've watched a lot of machining/machine tool/machinist videos lately and there seem to be "restored" tools and especially lathes and "machinists" coming out of the woodwork and I've seen PLENTY of "modifications" and "upgrades" on old machine tools where somebody is OILING something that PROBABLY needs greased simply because there are no GREASE ZERKS or GREASE CUPS where there should be. There are PIPE PLUGS and OIL CUPS. Now why would someone "restore" a machine and put pipe plugs and oil cups in places there should be grease zerks? I can think of a few reasons. First of all, grease zerks wear out. They get worn down from constant, repeated periodic greasing on an hourly basis where greasing is recommended based on OPERATING HOURS. A "10-hour" grease requirement could be ONE DAY or it could be ONE YEAR but trust me when I say nobody ever designed a machine to run only 10 hours per year and USUALLY the recommendation will be for a given number of operating hours or "annually" or "seasonally". And since not ALL grease fittings are "zerks" and some industries/tools/manufacturers who are using BULK GREASE and air-operated grease "guns" and large quantities of grease (General Electric locomotive traction motors have motor support bushings that get a bunch of grease but infrequently and it would take several tubes of gun grease and a lot of time with even a battery-operated grease gun to fill them and they're under the locomotive where nobody wants to be for long) use "flange" grease fittings so the fitting can be "hooked" onto with the "tip", the grease pump started and there's little or no leakage, they're fairly "flush mounted" so they don't get caught by foreign objects and snapped off and they don't get "borrowed" for an employee's "personal use". Same goes for grease guns and tubes of grease. If you want to make sure nobody "borrows" tools and equipment from an industrial "shop", you'd better make sure the stuff that's used the most and is the "cheapest" isn't something anybody can use at home. Second, grease zerks are fairly "cheap" but they're easily damaged, lost and "borrowed" and some people seem to think they're "valuable" even though they're "cheap" so they pilfer them from things like "surplus" machinery when it gets "retired" and OTHER TIMES there's a REQUIREMENT for "environmental protection" that "retired" and "surplus" machinery be DEGREASED and all PETROLEUM PRODUCTS be REMOVED before it gets put into "storage" outside on its way to the SCRAP YARD. Which is where PLENTY of "restored" machine tools WERE headed before "entrepreneurs" and "scrap buyers" became "machine tool "dealers/collectors/restorers" and decided that if they could do a "DuPont Overhaul" on some worn out, clapped out, beat-down, obsolete, written off, depreciated out old MACHINE TOOLS and sell them for DOLLARS ON THE PENNY to "hobbyists" and even "machinists" and were ONLY going to make money selling them that way vs. trying to haul them off as SCRAP with their pickups and bumper hitch and gooseneck trailers and were TAKING THEM APART ANYWAY to REMOVE THEM FROM THE PREMISES OF WHATEVER FACILITY THEY BOUGHT THEM FROM FOR "SCRAP PRICE", then WHY PUT A SINGLE DIME INTO THEM FOR GREASE ZERKS AND GREASE AND SPOIL THE IMAGE OF THOSE "RESTORED" MACHINES AND THEIR SHINY NEW PAINT JOBS BY REMINDING POTENTIAL BUYERS THAT THEY'RE MACHINES AND REQUIRE MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION AND CLEANING AND SERVICE AND ALSO SOMEBODY WILLING TO GET DIRTY, GREASY AND OILY TO "RUN" THEM? But they put OIL CUPS in them, you might be saying? Of COURSE they did. Or SOMEONE did. Who DOESN'T have an oil can around or can't buy a cheap, crappy one for $10 at the local auto parts store along with a quart of cheap motor oil and feel like a "mechanic/machinist" in MINUTES? Compared to buying a GREASE GUN and then having to choose GREASE and discovering that GREASE IS GREASY and it MAKES A MESS and is REALLY HARD TO GET OFF YOUR CLOTHES AND HANDS AND IMPOSSIBLE TO "WASH OUT" IN THE LAUNDRY IN LESS THAN SEVERAL DOZEN TRIPS WHERE IT WILL "WASH OUT" OF THE DIRTY CLOTHES AND "WASH IN" THE WASHING MACHINE AND OTHER CLOTHES? What kind of DIYer/hobbyist/amateur mechanic and/or machinist decides to pursue mechanical hobbies once he's "old" and "successful" enough to have his own "workshop" and buy OVERPRICED CLAPPED OUT JUNK "RESTORED" MACHINE TOOLS OR JUST OVERPRICED CLAPPED OUT JUNK MACHINE TOOLS NEEDING "RESTORATION" AND HASN'T BEEN A "GEARHEAD" ALL OF HIS LIFE ANYWAY AND IS USED TO AND PAYS NO MIND TO GETTING GREASY/OILY/DIRTY AND KNOWS YOU'RE NOT GOING TO EVEN WALK THROUGH A "REAL" SHOP MUCH LESS DO ANY WORK THERE WITHOUT GETTING AT LEAST "SHOP SCENT" ON YOU AND WOULD BE SCARED OFF BY GREASE ZERKS AND DIRTY/GREASY/GRIMY/OILY "UNRESTORED" MACHINES AND THE VERY THOUGHT OF GETTING HIS HANDS/CLOTHES/SHOP/HOUSE/KIDS/WASHING MACHINE DIRTY/GREASY/GRIMY/OILY just as a HOBBYIST? I don't know. I've never met an "amateur" mechanic/machinist period. If its in your blood, its in your blood and you usually are "cursed" and just "born that way". If you didn't grow up spending more time taking apart your cool toys with lots of parts than you did playing with them, its probably not in your blood. Its not that you're not a "guy" IF you're not into anything that turns money into noise and have always been obsessed with guns, cars, airplanes, fire, electricity, tools, shops, oil, grease and figuring out how/why something new "works". And "gearhead" is going to think less of you if you CAN'T "build" whatever it is that you think a "gearhead" would build if he had the time/money/space or you don't REALLY want to or at least not for long once some new "fad" that's the "hot new thing" among "guys" of your age or "generation" dies down and the NEXT "big thing" comes along or its just not "cool" anymore because EVERYONE ELSE is doing it. You don't have to have a shop and tools and grease under your fingernails and a "hobby" that involves lots of WORK and SWEAT and EFFORT and FRUSTRATION and even some BLOOD AND TEARS if you're doing it "right" to be a "guy". You're still a guy WITHOUT those things and a CLEANER and SANER and "RICHER" and HAPPIER "guy" without them, lol. Especially if its not IN YOUR BLOOD. You're still a guy. You're just not a "gearhead". How do you know for sure? If you're thinking about getting dirty and/or being "safer" as you go about "modifying" or "fixing" something in your "shop" and you even NOTICE a little grease, oil or blood on your hands or clothes until you get done working or take a brake or somebody else sees them and "informs" you that you're a dirty/oily/greasy/bloody "mess" and THEN have no idea when, where or how you got that way, you're not a gearhead. It's not in your blood. You weren't born with that "gene". And like I said, you'll be much cleaner, saner, richer and happier if you find a different "hobby". Golf is fun. And even "gearheads" like golf. Most of them a lot. Carts, hitting shit with clubs, physics, diagnosing "problems" like slicing, buying "tools" and most of all getting the hell away from oily, dirty, greasy, messy MACHINES for a while. The thing is that there are piles and piles of "scrap" tools out there left over from "jobs and factories going overseas" and MOST of that stuff and ESPECIALLY the "power tools" that contain oil, grease or other "hazardous materials" AND have MOTORS AND ROTATING PARTS AND NO SAFETY EQUIPMENT AND OTHER "ISSUES" THAT LEAD PREVIOUS OWNERS TO JUST "SCRAP" IT ALONG WITH THE LACK OF REAL MECHANICS/MACHINISTS WHO WORK WITH THAT STUFF DAILY WANTING/NEEDING "CHEAP" TOOLS WERE MAINLY BOUGHT UP BY "ENTREPRENEURS" WHO WERE/ARE COMPANY EMPLOYEES/RETIREES WHO WERE "SPECULATING" ON THOSE "VALUABLE" TOOLS BACK WHEN SCRAP METAL WAS GOING UP AS FAST AS THE PRICE OF GOLD. The PROBLEM is that MACHINE TOOLS have little or nothing in the way of "semi-precious" metals like copper, brass, bronze etc and otherwise are just IRON AND STEEL. And a LOT of the metal in them is "cast iron" that's NON-FERROUS and NON-MAGNETIC and SCRAP DEALERS MUCH PREFER STEEL OR "NODULAR IRON" AND SOME WON'T EVEN TAKE "CAST IRON" OR AT LEAST WON'T PAY FOR TONS OF IT AT A SHOT UNLESS ITS "PREPARED CAST" AND BROKEN UP INTO PIECES SMALL ENOUGH TO GET SCOOPED UP WITH A PAYLOADER AND DUMPED INTO A CRUSHER OR OLD CAR BODIES BEFORE THEY'RE CRUSHED. THOSE BIG CAST-IRON AND STEEL "MONSTERS" MAY LOOK IMPRESSIVE AND VALUABLE TO "GEARHEADS" BUT THEY'RE JUST SCRAP TO THE SCRAP MAN.
I notice you have oilers on the top of the spindle casing,are these standard or added,mine are under the spindle and have fely inserted,could I drill out and put in top oilers, would not be reliant on the felts then. thanks bob
There's a reason manual machinists were aprons. If you're using the proper lubricants where and when and in the quantities you should, you're going to end up with those "racing stripes". The same way mechanics get greasy and ranchers get shitty and farmers get dirty. If oil/grease/shit/dirt are in your blood, you won't mind them on your clothes. If you mind them on your clothes, they're not in your bloody. Just because Mike Rowe never did a "Dirty Jobs" episode on your hobby/second job/new business doesn't mean your going to stay clean and shiny doing it. Neither does a "restored" old tool with shiny steel and fresh paint mean you and it are going to stay that way.
Thanks Bob. As a new SB9A owner, I have the v-groove pulley, and the belt has seen better days. I want to replace it, but too many videos advise that it's just easier to replace with a generic link-belt. Your walk-through shows its a piece of cake.
I have an old v-belt version of the SB9 and recently broke the original belt. I was going to go with a linkbelt type replacement until I saw it is like $15 a foot. This vid proved that pulling the spindle isn't magic, and that I can go with a standard 5L belt and save a ton of money in the process. Thanks!
Thank you. Gave me the confidence to remove the spindle on my Hercus 9. Worked great.
Nice work! Hope it gives you many more years of service.
Any pics of the removal?
Well I just picked up an old 9A and I am in the process of doing a complete overhaul... Wasn't exactly sure how this spindle came out so I figured someone on RUclips Must have done this before me !!! Glad I found your channel... just amazing that 2,961 people viewed this video and I was only the 43rd Person to give you a thumbs up !!!! Great Video Thank you ...
Thank you for interest in my video and for the nice comment.
Thank you Sir. I am in the process of installing an endless serpentine belt which obviously requires removing the spindle. Your video helped a lot.
Gs InIllinois Go for it. CHEERS!
Thanks so much, I have a south bend 9 that has issues that I was afraid to address because I thought it would be nightmare to pull the spindle after watching this video I would be very comfortable doing the job. Excellent video!
Thanks for watching. Glad this helped you. I have a few other SouthBend videos.
Hello Bob ,thank you for sharing the video with us,I have a 72 years old Smart &Brown 9 inch lathe,I believe is a copy of SouthBend, anyway your video gave me the answers For tightening up the Spindle plus the half nut, Full view/ like/ subd
Yiannis (Athens Greece)
ChirsB257, Southbend 9's do have varying models of head stocks...some more and less complicated than others. They one in this video is actually, in my opinion, an easier type of head stock to do service work on if they were taken care of. I have one similar which I think is a 405-A model of head stock but the belt doesn't go to a bottom drive system. The ones that I see more than others have the bronze sleeves (bearings) for the shaft, more felt wicks, oils from the lower half of the spindle and yes more complication in disassembly. If you find one in the class of the 405-A in good condition they do make disassembly and assembly a little easier but require more care while operating in terms of keeping them lubricated. Nice thing about SB-9's is most of the head stocks will fit the beds of other SB-9's models so they were good at keeping some commonality among their machines over the years.
Thanks for this quick and helpful video! I just went out and bought an automotive flat belt to replace "Ol' Trusty" and managed to get it onto the drive (motor) end, pulled out the gears and lock ring, but couldn't quite figure out that last step of getting the shaft out. Thanks and I like your idea of a threaded rod to remove and insert the shaft in a simple, damage free way.
Safer than a hammer.
thank you. I plan to remove my shaft to change the belt
Thank you for demystifying the process. I have a slightly different version that developed a knock and didn't know how it came apart. I'm actually more concerned with putting it together and torquing it properly.
20 lbs torque with a six inch wrench.
Don't have a Southbend but for sure - process looks way easier than imagined. :)
I wasn't going to film it so the video could have been better. Thanks for watching and all the best in regards to your health.
In fact you don't need any of this. If you push with you hand, the spindle go out. Imagine that the spindle is free from the bearing!!!!
This makes no sense
It is so ridiculous. Somebody did a video and then everybody do the same.
@@pabloperez5678 do you own a Southbend?
@@MrEh5 yes bob, a sb9a. In mine i loosen the bearing bolt, hit with my hand to the spindle then it go out freely
I was not aware that the small South Bends don't have split bearings, on my 14.5 you just remove the caps and take the spindle out in one piece, but it's quite heavy so you not going to hold it with one hand ....:-)
Haven't seen much activity from you in a while,good to see your still alive.
Thanks, but you may have missed that i uploaded 4 new videos this month so far and 3 in August,... so pretty much normal for what i can handle time wise.
I will look for them.
You MIGHT want to check an operator's manual for that lathe and make sure there are supposed to be oil cups there and not grease zerks. OIL is very RARELY used with BUSHINGS where parts are rotating and you'll never keep it "in" because of the lack of viscosity. When ANYTHING - including those bushings - is TURNED IN A LATHE it ends up "threaded" and those tiny threads will screw oil in their direction of travel. I've seen JD PTO shafts leak oil that had to be replaced because they were machined "backward" and with the PTO shaft turning they were screwing oil right out of the seal. LUBRICANTS HAVE TO EITHER BE CHANGED ALL AT ONCE OR "CHANGED" THROUGH LEAKAGE AND REPLENISHMENT.
When something LEAKS OIL, there's a reason. Its not sealed. But oil being as thin as it is should NOT leak to the point its being THROWN OUT faster than it can be ADDED. And given the size of those bushings they're GOING TO LEAK OIL FASTER THAN YOU ADD IT. GREASE SEALS WILL "leak" because they have to for grease to "flow" and get where its going in a "greasable" situtation. A "maintenance-free" bearing system like a "sealed" u-joint has its seals "backward" to keep grease in. Regular u-joints get greased until ALL of the caps "leak" and you hear the seals "crack". GREASE should only leak when the bearing is being greased. That's how you know when you've GOT a part greased. When you see NEW grease come out the OLD grease and the contaminants/debris it contains have been flushed out of the bearing.
I've watched a lot of machining/machine tool/machinist videos lately and there seem to be "restored" tools and especially lathes and "machinists" coming out of the woodwork and I've seen PLENTY of "modifications" and "upgrades" on old machine tools where somebody is OILING something that PROBABLY needs greased simply because there are no GREASE ZERKS or GREASE CUPS where there should be. There are PIPE PLUGS and OIL CUPS. Now why would someone "restore" a machine and put pipe plugs and oil cups in places there should be grease zerks? I can think of a few reasons.
First of all, grease zerks wear out. They get worn down from constant, repeated periodic greasing on an hourly basis where greasing is recommended based on OPERATING HOURS. A "10-hour" grease requirement could be ONE DAY or it could be ONE YEAR but trust me when I say nobody ever designed a machine to run only 10 hours per year and USUALLY the recommendation will be for a given number of operating hours or "annually" or "seasonally". And since not ALL grease fittings are "zerks" and some industries/tools/manufacturers who are using BULK GREASE and air-operated grease "guns" and large quantities of grease (General Electric locomotive traction motors have motor support bushings that get a bunch of grease but infrequently and it would take several tubes of gun grease and a lot of time with even a battery-operated grease gun to fill them and they're under the locomotive where nobody wants to be for long) use "flange" grease fittings so the fitting can be "hooked" onto with the "tip", the grease pump started and there's little or no leakage, they're fairly "flush mounted" so they don't get caught by foreign objects and snapped off and they don't get "borrowed" for an employee's "personal use". Same goes for grease guns and tubes of grease. If you want to make sure nobody "borrows" tools and equipment from an industrial "shop", you'd better make sure the stuff that's used the most and is the "cheapest" isn't something anybody can use at home.
Second, grease zerks are fairly "cheap" but they're easily damaged, lost and "borrowed" and some people seem to think they're "valuable" even though they're "cheap" so they pilfer them from things like "surplus" machinery when it gets "retired" and OTHER TIMES there's a REQUIREMENT for "environmental protection" that "retired" and "surplus" machinery be DEGREASED and all PETROLEUM PRODUCTS be REMOVED before it gets put into "storage" outside on its way to the SCRAP YARD. Which is where PLENTY of "restored" machine tools WERE headed before "entrepreneurs" and "scrap buyers" became "machine tool "dealers/collectors/restorers" and decided that if they could do a "DuPont Overhaul" on some worn out, clapped out, beat-down, obsolete, written off, depreciated out old MACHINE TOOLS and sell them for DOLLARS ON THE PENNY to "hobbyists" and even "machinists" and were ONLY going to make money selling them that way vs. trying to haul them off as SCRAP with their pickups and bumper hitch and gooseneck trailers and were TAKING THEM APART ANYWAY to REMOVE THEM FROM THE PREMISES OF WHATEVER FACILITY THEY BOUGHT THEM FROM FOR "SCRAP PRICE", then WHY PUT A SINGLE DIME INTO THEM FOR GREASE ZERKS AND GREASE AND SPOIL THE IMAGE OF THOSE "RESTORED" MACHINES AND THEIR SHINY NEW PAINT JOBS BY REMINDING POTENTIAL BUYERS THAT THEY'RE MACHINES AND REQUIRE MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION AND CLEANING AND SERVICE AND ALSO SOMEBODY WILLING TO GET DIRTY, GREASY AND OILY TO "RUN" THEM?
But they put OIL CUPS in them, you might be saying? Of COURSE they did. Or SOMEONE did. Who DOESN'T have an oil can around or can't buy a cheap, crappy one for $10 at the local auto parts store along with a quart of cheap motor oil and feel like a "mechanic/machinist" in MINUTES? Compared to buying a GREASE GUN and then having to choose GREASE and discovering that GREASE IS GREASY and it MAKES A MESS and is REALLY HARD TO GET OFF YOUR CLOTHES AND HANDS AND IMPOSSIBLE TO "WASH OUT" IN THE LAUNDRY IN LESS THAN SEVERAL DOZEN TRIPS WHERE IT WILL "WASH OUT" OF THE DIRTY CLOTHES AND "WASH IN" THE WASHING MACHINE AND OTHER CLOTHES?
What kind of DIYer/hobbyist/amateur mechanic and/or machinist decides to pursue mechanical hobbies once he's "old" and "successful" enough to have his own "workshop" and buy OVERPRICED CLAPPED OUT JUNK "RESTORED" MACHINE TOOLS OR JUST OVERPRICED CLAPPED OUT JUNK MACHINE TOOLS NEEDING "RESTORATION" AND HASN'T BEEN A "GEARHEAD" ALL OF HIS LIFE ANYWAY AND IS USED TO AND PAYS NO MIND TO GETTING GREASY/OILY/DIRTY AND KNOWS YOU'RE NOT GOING TO EVEN WALK THROUGH A "REAL" SHOP MUCH LESS DO ANY WORK THERE WITHOUT GETTING AT LEAST "SHOP SCENT" ON YOU AND WOULD BE SCARED OFF BY GREASE ZERKS AND DIRTY/GREASY/GRIMY/OILY "UNRESTORED" MACHINES AND THE VERY THOUGHT OF GETTING HIS HANDS/CLOTHES/SHOP/HOUSE/KIDS/WASHING MACHINE DIRTY/GREASY/GRIMY/OILY just as a HOBBYIST?
I don't know. I've never met an "amateur" mechanic/machinist period. If its in your blood, its in your blood and you usually are "cursed" and just "born that way". If you didn't grow up spending more time taking apart your cool toys with lots of parts than you did playing with them, its probably not in your blood. Its not that you're not a "guy" IF you're not into anything that turns money into noise and have always been obsessed with guns, cars, airplanes, fire, electricity, tools, shops, oil, grease and figuring out how/why something new "works". And "gearhead" is going to think less of you if you CAN'T "build" whatever it is that you think a "gearhead" would build if he had the time/money/space or you don't REALLY want to or at least not for long once some new "fad" that's the "hot new thing" among "guys" of your age or "generation" dies down and the NEXT "big thing" comes along or its just not "cool" anymore because EVERYONE ELSE is doing it. You don't have to have a shop and tools and grease under your fingernails and a "hobby" that involves lots of WORK and SWEAT and EFFORT and FRUSTRATION and even
some BLOOD AND TEARS if you're doing it "right" to be a "guy". You're still a guy WITHOUT those things and a CLEANER and SANER and "RICHER" and HAPPIER "guy" without them, lol. Especially if its not IN YOUR BLOOD.
You're still a guy. You're just not a "gearhead". How do you know for sure? If you're thinking about getting dirty and/or being "safer" as you go about "modifying" or "fixing" something in your "shop" and you even NOTICE a little grease, oil or blood on your hands or clothes until you get done working or take a brake or somebody else sees them and "informs" you that you're a dirty/oily/greasy/bloody "mess" and THEN have no idea when, where or how you got that way, you're not a gearhead. It's not in your blood. You weren't born with that "gene". And like I said, you'll be much cleaner, saner, richer and happier if you find a different "hobby". Golf is fun. And even "gearheads" like golf. Most of them a lot. Carts, hitting shit with clubs, physics, diagnosing "problems" like slicing, buying "tools" and most of all getting the hell away from oily, dirty, greasy, messy MACHINES for a while.
The thing is that there are piles and piles of "scrap" tools out there left over from "jobs and factories going overseas" and MOST of that stuff and ESPECIALLY the "power tools" that contain oil, grease or other "hazardous materials" AND have MOTORS AND ROTATING PARTS AND NO SAFETY EQUIPMENT AND OTHER "ISSUES" THAT LEAD PREVIOUS OWNERS TO JUST "SCRAP" IT ALONG WITH THE LACK OF REAL MECHANICS/MACHINISTS WHO WORK WITH THAT STUFF DAILY WANTING/NEEDING "CHEAP" TOOLS WERE MAINLY BOUGHT UP BY "ENTREPRENEURS" WHO WERE/ARE COMPANY EMPLOYEES/RETIREES WHO WERE "SPECULATING" ON THOSE "VALUABLE" TOOLS BACK WHEN SCRAP METAL WAS GOING UP AS FAST AS THE PRICE OF GOLD.
The PROBLEM is that MACHINE TOOLS have little or nothing in the way of "semi-precious" metals like copper, brass, bronze etc and otherwise are just IRON AND STEEL. And a LOT of the metal in them is "cast iron" that's NON-FERROUS and NON-MAGNETIC and SCRAP DEALERS MUCH PREFER STEEL OR "NODULAR IRON" AND SOME WON'T EVEN TAKE "CAST IRON" OR AT LEAST WON'T PAY FOR TONS OF IT AT A SHOT UNLESS ITS "PREPARED CAST" AND BROKEN UP INTO PIECES SMALL ENOUGH TO GET SCOOPED UP WITH A PAYLOADER AND DUMPED INTO A CRUSHER OR OLD CAR BODIES BEFORE THEY'RE CRUSHED. THOSE BIG CAST-IRON AND STEEL "MONSTERS" MAY LOOK IMPRESSIVE AND VALUABLE TO "GEARHEADS" BUT THEY'RE JUST SCRAP TO THE SCRAP MAN.
South Bend 9 takes Mobile Velocite # 10 spindle oil. The spindle rides in the casting and there are no bushings.
That was an incredible wall of text to say basically nothing of importance. Wow.
My 9A is 80 years old and there is zero wear on the spindle or CI bearings. Any light weight oil is fine. I used 0-20 motor oil for years w/o issue.
Thank you
your a legend, thanks for the video
People say that to me a lot, but usually for rock climbing history.
Hope the video helped you.
@@MrEh5 it did indeed...
Thank you! That was extremely helpful.
so what holts the belt drums on the spindle ? just pressfit? i have one in poor condition and would like to know in case it wont budge
I notice you have oilers on the top of the spindle casing,are these standard or added,mine are under the spindle and have fely inserted,could I drill out and put in top oilers, would not be reliant on the felts then. thanks bob
Hi Bob. Where can l get the ball joint removal sleeve you are using?
i wanted to see where you put the oil wick! it looks like there is a channel in front middle and the end of the headstock for oils wicks am i correct?
Yes i i remember correctly. You will see when you remove the spindle. May be spring loaded ones also.
@@MrEh5 Bob, Thanks
Thanks Bob. Very simple, are there any brass bearing in there?
No just cast iron and shims to adjust the gap.
There's a reason manual machinists were aprons. If you're using the proper lubricants where and when and in the quantities you should, you're going to end up with those "racing stripes". The same way mechanics get greasy and ranchers get shitty and farmers get dirty. If oil/grease/shit/dirt are in your blood, you won't mind them on your clothes. If you mind them on your clothes, they're not in your bloody. Just because Mike Rowe never did a "Dirty Jobs" episode on your hobby/second job/new business doesn't mean your going to stay clean and shiny doing it. Neither does a "restored" old tool with shiny steel and fresh paint mean you and it are going to stay that way.
Hi do you have an email contact. I pressed my spindle back in and it’s frozen
Did you forget to put the spacers in the bearing cap.