Just bought one. Great gun , Glasurit clear coat like glass. Like you 2.2 bar . Light gun . Love it .Been spraying 40 years . Tried almost every gun out there , first gun devilbliss. Jga
Yet another great video Tony with a new product.Your style of editing makes it very easy to follow and understand what is going on. A great help for people that are looking for hints & tips on automotive painting. Thanks for sharing
Great job as usual thanks for all your tips and talking us through the process..your very thorough which is one reason I follow you so much and your great at your trade..Thanks again man!!!!
Hi tony Nice job there mate I use the liquid glass myself but I use the fast its much quicker drying than the standard, when I used the standard glass for the first time it seemed as though it stopped soft for ages and that was on a bake of 60c, but it's brilliant stuff it has a lovely shine and it self levels real good, its my go to clear now. great video mate keep them coming
+Ron T hi ron, thanks for the info , im going to try the fast next as i really like this clear it goes on and flows out so nice but we need a fast drying clear so il be trying that soon and i rekon il be the same i think il be sticking to this for the nice jobs for sure, and thankyou i will be keeping the videos coming i can promise that
+Ron T , i have the same problem , we have painted alloy wheels ,backed them and they are still soft and tacky , thats at 60c for 40 min , left it airdry over night still the same in the morning !!!
+madihatahir hey guys ive spoken to chris at spray guns direct today and he said if any of you need any help with the curing of this clear then feel free to get in touch with them and hey will be happy to help out
While using the standard hardener are you doing full paint jobs or just panels. I would hate to use a fast hardener on a car and it starts to dry while I'm still clearing.
I’ve used both for Both and not had any issues I always move a lot quicker on repaints anyway when I’m not filming and I keep a gun with a touch of fade out thinners in just incase I hit a dry area at any point just helps melt it all together if anything does arise
Thanks man. It's 400$ at spraygun world. It's the tekna prolite, comes with 1.2,1.3,1.4 comes with te20 and the te10. I would have to buy the 110 aircap
tony nicely painted .... am gonna order this lacquer from spraygundirect in the morning with a fast harder, been using max mayer 200 , which is good better then the valspar , that after a week just drops its shine .
+madihatahir thanks buddy , i found this stuff so nice i have to say ive just been trying the maxmeyer 0300 the oast 2 days but its just not in the same league as this , it lays down so nice and wet with so muc ease and the gloss is brilliant deep and crystal clear , couldn't find a fault with this stuff at all
Thanks for the videos Tony, very enjoyable. I do mostly older cars now at home as a hobby just to keep my hand in, I used to do it full time but that was back in the cellulose only days. Is it possible some time to do a video on colour sanding and buffing? I am also in the UK, and use mostly Max Meyer paints etc, but for buffing (solid colours) I use Farecla G3, followed by G10. This is OK, but quite messy, is there a better alternative? I also flat with 1500 wet, by hand the old school way, but I now believe that folks dry sand with a DA, is this what you do? as I say, a video would be great. All the best and thanks.
+Hilux hi and thankyou for watching, that is a video i already have everything in place materials wise ready to do so as soon as i get a few hours off the guns then il make that up no problem , the farecla is what most use i have some of there new advanced cutting compound that im going to do the video with, you can do dry with discs but even though im all for new ways of doing things im old school when it comes to colour sand and buffing. personally i like to use a wet p2000 wet n dry paper by hand , then use a 3m trizact disc in p3000, this just helps to refine the marks and leave the pannel alot easier to buff back up and also reduces time in doing so and massively reduces the chance of any dropping back after polishing so eliminating redos on the buffing side, i like to do it this way and then use the coarse head to compund and then the polishing head and suitable grade polish to remove the swirl marks left from compounding, the new farecla G3 ultra uses just one compound making things even easier and you just use two heads with the saem compound to get the same overall finish , eliminating extra materials and saving time too , if theres anything more i can help with before i get the video up or after feel free to comment and il do my best to help , thanks Tony ..
+Tonys_Refinishing Thanks for the quick and detailed reply Tony, will look forward to the video and will be a big help I'm sure, as there must be an easier way than I do it. (stuff goes everywhere). I will be using the Max Meyer spray filler for the first time hopefully Thursday or Friday evening. I have only used the Eastwood surfacer a long time ago, which was good stuff but I cannot find it here in the UK now, so I'm hoping that this will be as good. Have you ever used it? if so, any tips? Cheers, John.
+Hilux i haven't used it personally but i haven't been able to fault max meyer products if im honest all the lacquers paints and matt lacquers i use alot and find them brilliant, have you tried www.frost.co.uk they do alot of the eastwood range , and as for spray filler the only advice i could give you is to use the biggest tip in the spray gun you can atleast a 2.0 tip size preferably 2.2-2.5 for best use
Would you prefer Bellaria over the lph400 for clear? Wouldn't the Bellaria spray HS better with a 1.4 tip. I am thinking of getting the Bellaria with a 1.4. 1.3 is a little small for thick HS paint. I found out not a Hs gun because its not a tulip pattern cap I bought one I answere since no one answere my question.
honestly ive never found an issue spraying anything with the bellairia its my most used gun in the shop, base , clear hs ms direct gloss you name it it handles it well
Tonys_Refinishing it an awesome gun 1.3 I bought one. Even make a stand gun holder. Consider getting the 1.8 w400 for primer or should I get the airgunza.
Tonys_Refinishing I already spend out on the Iwata Bellaria and Devilbiss Prolite clear/base gun. So I don't want to spend $300 dollar on a primer gun. I got a cheap husky 1.4, 1.8 set I will use for primer. I just trying different primer guns out of curiosity. I am at tractor supply buying some tractor paint I am gonna use on my car. Why a husky I seen a guy paint a corvette with it Lol.
what percent thinner did you use? Or do you use a viscosity cup? Any rule of thumb for thinning epoxy primers, polyurethanes to make them lay down/flow out?
@Tonys_Refinishing Hi Tony,I am thinking of taking my Ford Transit down to bare metal,and have been looking at the best primers to protect against rust, so far Etch Primer and ZG90 Zinc rich (98%) cold galvanising paint. ...so I would be applying this directly onto the bare steel once all existing paint and primer has been totally removed, then primer on top of that then base, then clear. What do you use on bare OLD steel (once totally sanded down and all paint removed) for ultimate rust prevention as your first coating direct to the metal?
Thank Christ there is an English man spraying..they are all american or Australian. Anyhoo, Hello tony. Thanks for taking the time to video, edit,upload and share..That takes a long time to do. so cheers mate.... Im currently doing a project. Its a 3 stage , silver base ( with pearl ) then a blue candy topped with a lovely 2k clear. The trouble is in between the base and candy will be a 24hr window.Im thinking after the base, put on 2 coats of top coat clear, 800 it so its smooth and the put the pearl on top the next day after i design the pattern with fine line tape. Is there anyway you could do a video involving a 24 hr period between coats ?...Once again thanks for the videos...keep em coming.. they are GREAT...
+Tosh twentythree (tosh 23) lol thanks man and i have to say i learnt alot from the channels on youtube and if it wasnt for one in particular i probably wouldn't have created my own, and thanks its nice to know the time and effort that goes into these is noticed, i will be doing a series on custom paint soon along side the lumaIII light so that may help, as far as your theory on the way to go about it then tbh i would do it the way your looking at, base it all up to the desired level in silver clear and leave till cured then p800 dry discs or wetndry whichever you have the option to do , you then have the protection over the silver so it doesnt get damaged when doing the design and also the lifetime you need to design without the worry of overcoating and delamination issues after , when i do custom work on helmets ect i usually do it this way it means i can get the design to a stage that most of the base colours are down in the correct way i need , then i clear an flat so one the edges of the design get blocked down and protects everything so i can do the artwork ontop without any damge to work already done, the other option is to base in silver then the nxt day use a clear basecoat over it just a light coat then do your design and if needed clear base again before candy but thats not the best option its just another way it can be done. Hope this helps , Tony
Cheers tony...I find it amazing what people can learn if taught properly... Just getting the confirmation from you means what I have watched has gone into my brain...There fore that means that you must be a good teacher...?? Anyhoo, cheers mate and dont work tooo hard ...Tosh (tony)
@Tonys_Refinishing For making alloys look glossy after silver base coat would you say there is a big difference between the QUARTZ Liquid Glass and the Kristal Klarlack? what i mean is would i see a big difference in gloss level between the 2 products when used on alloys after revamping them
Out of the ones I’ve tried mate yes but like I say it’s just from the ones I’ve tried I’m sure there’s probably better out there but for the cost I think it’s perfect
Hello my friend. Would it be possible to get this same finish using the W400 1.3 with the same settings you used? Is Bellaria better than W400? - Congratulations - Thanks.
build of clearcoat per coat and in most cases they are alot higher quality hs clears too, they spray alot better and due to the higher solids content tend to be overall a superior clearcoat
Just bought one. Great gun , Glasurit clear coat like glass. Like you 2.2 bar . Light gun . Love it .Been spraying 40 years . Tried almost every gun out there , first gun devilbliss. Jga
Just bought the same gun. Great gun and helps a learning person like me.
Yet another great video Tony with a new product.Your style of editing makes it very easy to follow and understand what is going on. A great help for people that are looking for hints & tips on automotive painting. Thanks for sharing
+Mark Emmett thanks fella appreciate the feedback as always
I really like the way the clear is. Coming out bro
Thanks man hope your enjoying the videos
Sure 100%
Two turns out on the fan -- And two turns out on the fluid works perfect for that gun. That's how mine is set up.
At 29 - 32 psi.
I use 20 to 22 psi for base, 29psi for clear. 1.75 to 2 turns out on fluid, full fan.
Great job as usual thanks for all your tips and talking us through the process..your very thorough which is one reason I follow you so much and your great at your trade..Thanks again man!!!!
+Wendell Rountree thanks again for the nice comments and glad your enjoying the channel
Grab a panel, grab some paint and have a play ! 👍👍couldn't have said it any better !
Hi tony
Nice job there mate
I use the liquid glass myself but I use the fast its much quicker drying than the standard,
when I used the standard glass for the first time it seemed as though it stopped soft for ages and that was on a bake of 60c, but it's brilliant stuff it has a lovely shine and it self levels real good, its my go to clear now.
great video mate keep them coming
+Ron T hi ron, thanks for the info , im going to try the fast next as i really like this clear it goes on and flows out so nice but we need a fast drying clear so il be trying that soon and i rekon il be the same i think il be sticking to this for the nice jobs for sure, and thankyou i will be keeping the videos coming i can promise that
+Ron T , i have the same problem , we have painted alloy wheels ,backed them and they are still soft and tacky , thats at 60c for 40 min , left it airdry over night still the same in the morning !!!
+madihatahir hey guys ive spoken to chris at spray guns direct today and he said if any of you need any help with the curing of this clear then feel free to get in touch with them and hey will be happy to help out
While using the standard hardener are you doing full paint jobs or just panels. I would hate to use a fast hardener on a car and it starts to dry while I'm still clearing.
I’ve used both for Both and not had any issues I always move a lot quicker on repaints anyway when I’m not filming and I keep a gun with a touch of fade out thinners in just incase I hit a dry area at any point just helps melt it all together if anything does arise
Excelent job as usual!!!
I'm impressed
+Mirek M. Thanks
Thanks man. It's 400$ at spraygun world. It's the tekna prolite, comes with 1.2,1.3,1.4 comes with te20 and the te10. I would have to buy the 110 aircap
tony nicely painted .... am gonna order this lacquer from spraygundirect in the morning with a fast harder, been using max mayer 200 , which is good better then the valspar , that after a week just drops its shine .
+madihatahir thanks buddy , i found this stuff so nice i have to say ive just been trying the maxmeyer 0300 the oast 2 days but its just not in the same league as this , it lays down so nice and wet with so muc ease and the gloss is brilliant deep and crystal clear , couldn't find a fault with this stuff at all
Thanks for the videos Tony, very enjoyable. I do mostly older cars now at home as a hobby just to keep my hand in, I used to do it full time but that was back in the cellulose only days. Is it possible some time to do a video on colour sanding and buffing? I am also in the UK, and use mostly Max Meyer paints etc, but for buffing (solid colours) I use Farecla G3, followed by G10. This is OK, but quite messy, is there a better alternative? I also flat with 1500 wet, by hand the old school way, but I now believe that folks dry sand with a DA, is this what you do? as I say, a video would be great. All the best and thanks.
+Hilux hi and thankyou for watching, that is a video i already have everything in place materials wise ready to do so as soon as i get a few hours off the guns then il make that up no problem , the farecla is what most use i have some of there new advanced cutting compound that im going to do the video with, you can do dry with discs but even though im all for new ways of doing things im old school when it comes to colour sand and buffing. personally i like to use a wet p2000 wet n dry paper by hand , then use a 3m trizact disc in p3000, this just helps to refine the marks and leave the pannel alot easier to buff back up and also reduces time in doing so and massively reduces the chance of any dropping back after polishing so eliminating redos on the buffing side, i like to do it this way and then use the coarse head to compund and then the polishing head and suitable grade polish to remove the swirl marks left from compounding, the new farecla G3 ultra uses just one compound making things even easier and you just use two heads with the saem compound to get the same overall finish , eliminating extra materials and saving time too , if theres anything more i can help with before i get the video up or after feel free to comment and il do my best to help , thanks Tony ..
+Tonys_Refinishing Thanks for the quick and detailed reply Tony, will look forward to the video and will be a big help I'm sure, as there must be an easier way than I do it. (stuff goes everywhere).
I will be using the Max Meyer spray filler for the first time hopefully Thursday or Friday evening. I have only used the Eastwood surfacer a long time ago, which was good stuff but I cannot find it here in the UK now, so I'm hoping that this will be as good. Have you ever used it? if so, any tips?
Cheers, John.
+Hilux i haven't used it personally but i haven't been able to fault max meyer products if im honest all the lacquers paints and matt lacquers i use alot and find them brilliant, have you tried www.frost.co.uk they do alot of the eastwood range , and as for spray filler the only advice i could give you is to use the biggest tip in the spray gun you can atleast a 2.0 tip size preferably 2.2-2.5 for best use
Great job again mate. think I might try this clear. We are using sikkens hsr at the mo. not really liking it.
+Jay Lang thanks mate, and as for clears out of all the ones ive been able to try and sample recently this is by far my favourite
Great!
+ballerbrian4u thanks man
Hey Jordan, I'm about to buy a new spray gun. The iwata bellaria or the devilbiss prolite. I want to get glass finish for high solids.
+Slackerz Sincity it's Tony lol , prolite with the t110 air cap all day long
Much better then pro light. Sold mine . This gun is best with 1.4 . Glass finish
Hi, may I ask what is the best setup for this gun for clear?
Would you prefer Bellaria over the lph400 for clear? Wouldn't the Bellaria spray HS better with a 1.4 tip. I am thinking of getting the Bellaria with a 1.4. 1.3 is a little small for thick HS paint. I found out not a Hs gun because its not a tulip pattern cap I bought one I answere since no one answere my question.
honestly ive never found an issue spraying anything with the bellairia its my most used gun in the shop, base , clear hs ms direct gloss you name it it handles it well
Tonys_Refinishing it an awesome gun 1.3 I bought one. Even make a stand gun holder. Consider getting the 1.8 w400 for primer or should I get the airgunza.
+Rock&Roll I've heard good things about the air gunza but never tried one myself tbh
Tonys_Refinishing I already spend out on the Iwata Bellaria and Devilbiss Prolite clear/base gun. So I don't want to spend $300 dollar on a primer gun. I got a cheap husky 1.4, 1.8 set I will use for primer. I just trying different primer guns out of curiosity. I am at tractor supply buying some tractor paint I am gonna use on my car. Why a husky I seen a guy paint a corvette with it Lol.
what percent thinner did you use? Or do you use a viscosity cup? Any rule of thumb for thinning epoxy primers, polyurethanes to make them lay down/flow out?
In clearcoat mate I usually drop 10 thinner in fella
Great finish! What cap is your w400 is it tha Ba4-2?
Yes, it is!
@Tonys_Refinishing Hi Tony,I am thinking of taking my Ford Transit down to bare metal,and have been looking at the best primers to protect against rust, so far Etch Primer and ZG90 Zinc rich (98%) cold galvanising paint.
...so I would be applying this directly onto the bare steel once all existing paint and primer has been totally removed, then primer on top of that then base, then clear.
What do you use on bare OLD steel (once totally sanded down and all paint removed) for ultimate rust prevention as your first coating direct to the metal?
I’d say a high quality etch or an epoxy based primer would be best tbh
Thank Christ there is an English man spraying..they are all american or Australian. Anyhoo, Hello tony. Thanks for taking the time to video, edit,upload and share..That takes a long time to do. so cheers mate....
Im currently doing a project. Its a 3 stage , silver base ( with pearl ) then a blue candy topped with a lovely 2k clear.
The trouble is in between the base and candy will be a 24hr window.Im thinking after the base, put on 2 coats of top coat clear, 800 it so its smooth and the put the pearl on top the next day after i design the pattern with fine line tape.
Is there anyway you could do a video involving a 24 hr period between coats ?...Once again thanks for the videos...keep em coming.. they are GREAT...
+Tosh twentythree (tosh 23) lol thanks man and i have to say i learnt alot from the channels on youtube and if it wasnt for one in particular i probably wouldn't have created my own, and thanks its nice to know the time and effort that goes into these is noticed, i will be doing a series on custom paint soon along side the lumaIII light so that may help, as far as your theory on the way to go about it then tbh i would do it the way your looking at, base it all up to the desired level in silver clear and leave till cured then p800 dry discs or wetndry whichever you have the option to do , you then have the protection over the silver so it doesnt get damaged when doing the design and also the lifetime you need to design without the worry of overcoating and delamination issues after , when i do custom work on helmets ect i usually do it this way it means i can get the design to a stage that most of the base colours are down in the correct way i need , then i clear an flat so one the edges of the design get blocked down and protects everything so i can do the artwork ontop without any damge to work already done, the other option is to base in silver then the nxt day use a clear basecoat over it just a light coat then do your design and if needed clear base again before candy but thats not the best option its just another way it can be done. Hope this helps , Tony
Cheers tony...I find it amazing what people can learn if taught properly... Just getting the confirmation from you means what I have watched has gone into my brain...There fore that means that you must be a good teacher...?? Anyhoo, cheers mate and dont work tooo hard ...Tosh (tony)
+Tosh twentythree (tosh 23) haha thanks man and happy to help
@Tonys_Refinishing For making alloys look glossy after silver base coat would you say there is a big difference between the QUARTZ Liquid Glass and the Kristal Klarlack?
what i mean is would i see a big difference in gloss level between the 2 products when used on alloys after revamping them
Honestly not for wheels no but I’d say the liquid glass will give you a deeper looking gloss over the karlack
thanks for fast answer.Would you say the Liquid Glass is just about the best clear you can get for a top premium finish
Out of the ones I’ve tried mate yes but like I say it’s just from the ones I’ve tried I’m sure there’s probably better out there but for the cost I think it’s perfect
Hello my friend. Would it be possible to get this same finish using the W400 1.3 with the same settings you used? Is Bellaria better than W400? - Congratulations - Thanks.
i prefer the bellairia over the standard yes
what is the differrnce between MS and HS as far as spraying it? is the HS slightly thicker because of the higher solids content?
build of clearcoat per coat and in most cases they are alot higher quality hs clears too, they spray alot better and due to the higher solids content tend to be overall a superior clearcoat
what model of the air head IWATA W400 1.3
+vitaliy romny this is the bellaria limited edition one im now sure the aircap
what is different betwwen w400 and w 400 belaria?
I believe the aircap setup mage
@@TonysRefinishingTV thank mate
Dá hora seus grampos aí brother!!!