Although I was side mount certified a year ago, I recently made adjustments to my steel and aluminum tanks and boy did it help. I think you should've talked about tank placement, steels go on the square rings on the back,'aluminums on sliding rings on the side. (But that's how I feel they ride the best for me.)
Actually, not necessarily. In salt water, my 12L Faber Steels go on sliding buckles set as far back as they can on my waist strap. This trims the cylinders perfectly. It's similar in Freshwater with 300Bar Faber 7L steels, which are very heavy. I like to leave the drop attachments for stage/deco cylinders, but if your main cylinders are too low, then yes, start the dive with them on the drops, and then you can move them later as they gain some buoyancy. As noted below I use mid-sized
Hello Steve, thanks for the video, it's very consize and all very well summarized. I just have one comment regarding the height of the boltsnap. What I have been taught is to measure the distance on my body between my arm pit and the bottom of the sliding D-Ring on my waist strap (this is where the boltsnap usually sits). I then report that lenght (using a pre-cut piece of rope) between the extension post and the eyelet of the boltsnap. That way whatever boltsnap length I am using it will always be the correct measurement. What's your opinion on that? Have a nice day. Loïc M.
Hi Steve! Love this, thanks a lot! When I set my lower clip just about the height of my armpit-wast band, I often find there's no "tension" on the clip at the start of the dive. Therefore, it allows the bottom of the tank to move quite a bit ... is about the orientation of that clip too ? Or should I move the lower clip lower to create more tension ? Thanks for your videos!
Yes, you could try a couple of things. Sounds like you are using steel cylinders, which will be most apparent in freshwater but also to some degree in salt. This is where I was saying to try clocking the clip slightly forward maybe for the L 2:30 and R 9:30. This will take up a little slack on the clip. You have to watch that you don't overdo it and find that your valves/regs sit past horizontal. Another thing to check is the tension of your loop bungees. For steels, they should be pretty firm to rotate the cylinder and take up the slack on the clip. Also, I forgot to mention not using large clips. Mine are mid-sized just under 100mm. Last point as you consume some gas this should improve through the dive as the cylinder gets a little more buoyant. Hope that helps.
Great video.
Excellent video. That's exactly how I set up my lightweight steels as well as any alu cylinders when I travel.
Your a legend matey thank you for sharing your experience
Although I was side mount certified a year ago, I recently made adjustments to my steel and aluminum tanks and boy did it help.
I think you should've talked about tank placement, steels go on the square rings on the back,'aluminums on sliding rings on the side.
(But that's how I feel they ride the best for me.)
Actually, not necessarily. In salt water, my 12L Faber Steels go on sliding buckles set as far back as they can on my waist strap. This trims the cylinders perfectly. It's similar in Freshwater with 300Bar Faber 7L steels, which are very heavy. I like to leave the drop attachments for stage/deco cylinders, but if your main cylinders are too low, then yes, start the dive with them on the drops, and then you can move them later as they gain some buoyancy. As noted below I use mid-sized
@@sidemountpros maybe a follow up video would be helpful
In that video, showing them hooked up would be awesome
Love it. Good tips; appreciate it as I am still a noob!
+1, I'd echo that
Thanks :)
Hello Steve, thanks for the video, it's very consize and all very well summarized. I just have one comment regarding the height of the boltsnap.
What I have been taught is to measure the distance on my body between my arm pit and the bottom of the sliding D-Ring on my waist strap (this is where the boltsnap usually sits).
I then report that lenght (using a pre-cut piece of rope) between the extension post and the eyelet of the boltsnap.
That way whatever boltsnap length I am using it will always be the correct measurement.
What's your opinion on that?
Have a nice day.
Loïc M.
Yes absolutely. I don't change my bolt snap size always using a mid-size but your point is correct.
Hi Steve! Love this, thanks a lot! When I set my lower clip just about the height of my armpit-wast band, I often find there's no "tension" on the clip at the start of the dive. Therefore, it allows the bottom of the tank to move quite a bit ... is about the orientation of that clip too ? Or should I move the lower clip lower to create more tension ? Thanks for your videos!
Yes, you could try a couple of things. Sounds like you are using steel cylinders, which will be most apparent in freshwater but also to some degree in salt. This is where I was saying to try clocking the clip slightly forward maybe for the L 2:30 and R 9:30. This will take up a little slack on the clip. You have to watch that you don't overdo it and find that your valves/regs sit past horizontal. Another thing to check is the tension of your loop bungees. For steels, they should be pretty firm to rotate the cylinder and take up the slack on the clip. Also, I forgot to mention not using large clips. Mine are mid-sized just under 100mm. Last point as you consume some gas this should improve through the dive as the cylinder gets a little more buoyant. Hope that helps.
Definitely agree but I think you have to tweak it to adjust to yourself.
True, pick a starting point and then see how it dives and adjust. One of my favourite parts of sidemount :)