Hunting for the Best Bow staves
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
- Ryan Gill of HuntPrimitive.com explains and shows what you need to know for choosing the best trees possible to make bows from.
The Osage Bow build it linked here. • How to Build an Osage ...
The Hickory stone age bow build is linked here • Full Stone Age Bow Bui...
Ryan's book on bowmaking is linked here gillsprimitive...
I used an old sassafras once. I was cutting wood for the smoker and the way the tree fell gave me a nice opportunity for a short bow the way the trunk split. It survive many years till one day it was to dry and a limb broke.
I still keep it because when the tree fell and I began to cut smoking logs with my axe, our Labrador Sam grabbed the whole 25 foot tree and started trying to drag it around to help. This is the only toy I have left from playing with him. He would retrieve arrows I shot into the pond. He helped create the stave.
It worked, but I wouldn’t recommend sassafras for anything serious. Made a good toy. Don’t carve past the bark.
I had a dream a couple nights ago that I was in the woods and found a stand of perfect Osage trees for bows. Crazy what I dream about sometimes.
You've got it bad bro!
@@jamescooper2618 😂😂😂
Hi Ryan !! I inherited frim my great uncle, a Brazilian undigenous bow, made or black palm tree. The rear part, was ruines by moths, but, the hard and flexible part, is intact. What kind of wood can I add glued to this lenght ? It measures at most, 1.70 mts. Thank you very much, and congratulation !!!!!
This is what I used to do when I lived in Minnesota. We had more Ash (green or white and tons of black), Elm (American, slippery, Rock), and hophornbeam than most other bow woods where I was at.
The Black Locust seemed to he particularly weak compared to what I have collected in other parts of the US.
Finding arrow shafts was great over there. Great amounts of Dogwood and plenty of wild rose. There was some clusters of fine chokecherry and serviceberry as well that I found to he particularly dense.
There was a learning curve on my part when it came to harvesting all these during the many seasons we faced but I was able to identify each of them during the dead of winter even by the smell of the inner bark and not just the outer appearance.
Your advice is very gracious and helpful. Taking the time to observe is important and your are right that we need to slow down and think.
I live in the Puget Sound now and have had to learn about what we have in this area and am surprised about the amount of western red osier dogwood and ocean spray. The Black Locust that we have here seems to be the toughest that I have found and the mountain are teaming with fine vine maple. I have seen some vine maple in the center of a 50 yard grove that was almost a foot in diameter.
The one that I have not collected in the mountains here is pacific yew.
Thank you again for your informative and brilliant videos.
I liked your comment. I also live in Minnesota and have also found a lot of ash, elm, and hornbeam. However I am envious of your ability to identify them, I almost can't at all......
I'm going to do this, I made a bow and a couple arrows all by hand( except for the string ) for my son about 20 years ago. I had a semi dry peice of scale bark hickory and just used a big buck knife to cut it down to shape and got some turkey feathers from the woods for the fetching for the arrows. My son who was about 7 years old shot that thing for 2 days straight at our cabin in Virginia. My arm ached for two days and I could hardly pick my arm up but this time I'm going to use a table saw and a draw knife and take my time.
Hola Gill !!!! Mis respetos y felicitaciones. No solo por tu trabajo, tu constancia y tu conocimiento, sino por también enseñar y divulgar desinteresadamente. Realmente, admirable !!! Yo vivo en Uruguay y soy descendiente de la etnia Charrúa. Se que nuestros ancestros utilizaban un árbol que se llama palo amarillo para hacer sus arcos. Quisiera comenzar lentamente a fabricar me mi propio arco. Pero no es fácil de conseguir esa madera.pense en ir a las ventas de garage a comprar pino tea o pinotea, ya que sus ventas son muy marcadas, además de tener cerca de 80 años de estacionada. Felicitaciones !!!!!
I have heard from a couple guys that ironwood has a little better compression strength to tension strength balance, and that it does a little better with moisture than hickory...seems like it might be negligible with hickory being more readily available and a little easier to work? I am hunting with a fire hardened hickory this year, it’s shooting great right now, I built it from a tree that had a small dog leg at the handle so it’s center shot, feels nice in the hand. Thanks for all your information and for being thorough on your tests, I think you are contributing a lot to the primitive archery world, keep on going!
The only way I have found to make a serviceable bow out if a high-crown stave without a backing is to build it super long, like 72” or 73” and spend about 2 hours burnishing the back like crazy. Great video man.
I agree. It depends on the draw length for sure. I can get away with a little more with my short draw, but I agree, I like one with a bit less crown. thanks very much
@@huntprimitive9918 I know you shoot shorter draw lengths so you’re not putting as much strain on a high-crown bow. Also, I always build a high-crown bow with a fully bending design (bend through the handle). It’s more forgiving than a stiff handle. More working limb. Do you build your high end recurves with large diameter trees? Not talking village bow type.
Really enjoy all content and because of you I was finally able to make some cane arrows, and some good chert points I was proud of. Thank you for the knowledge.
excellent, great to hear, thank you! best of luck on your builds
@@huntprimitive9918 ash will make a great flatbow. But it's all disappearing
Having worked with winged elm (pretty common in my area) I was told it’d make a good bow. Even with modern tools, I’d never use it again. I wish more people emphasized how much of a pain that wood is to work. Having worked with pignut, pecan, and Osage; elm will test your patience.
I think winged elm is the best of all the elms, but it does suck to work. Powertool are definitely your friend on that stuff..lol
The scythians would use roots and gnarly pieces to make their beautiful bows
I'm blessed with an abundance of osage here in the upper midwest. I suggest to anyone targeting elm to invest in a good bandsaw and cut your staves out instead of splitting.
Yáh'áh'téh.... Hello from the Navajo reservation we don't have Osage here is there any way you get some from you
Great video! Thanks! Finding straight Osage is much, much harder than other trees. Osage is also hard to get to the ground. I cut a lot of it and it's a pain in the butt...
Yea, I just experienced this. I have thorn scatches all over.....
I swear by ash. Plenty here in Ohio, just have to be sure they haven't fallen prey to the emerald ash borer
@@ashbowman1 I agree with you Randy, ash makes a great bow and deserves a nod...
Before you finish a bow put it in a hot box 3 days then put your finish on it.
Especially if its 2 different woods Like a Bamboo backed hickory bow you dry the 2 material's before their glued so they don't de-laminate.
I forget the wood type I called it Iron wood it looked all Muscley, it's the best bow wood it grew in clumps on creek bank's.
Could you make a video on how you find out where the animals are, and proceed on the stalking process?
In your elk hunting video you used a call, but how about animals like hogs, that I don't think(?) make sounds that are audible too far?
Thank you for providing the amazing content!
With hogs and deer, he often uses the "spot and stalk" method (for his videos at least).
Essentially it involves going to an area where you know prey animals frequent, and then walking around until you find animal sign. Based on the age of the sign, you then comb the area until you "spot" the animal, preferably at enough of a distance that you see them before they see you. From there you enter the "stalk" portion, in which you use wind direction, terrain, and flora to slowly approach the animal until you are close enough for an accurate and ethical kill shot.
Most of the "spot" portion relies on a combination of knowledge of the area, experience reading animal sign, and a bit of luck that they haven't been run out by another predator or some clowns on dirt bikes.
@@Rob-bn9ib Hmm, 'tis a good overview of the method you mention here. Thank you for providing the method's name, that really opened the doors for me to study it myself, as I had no idea what to call it, thus, couldn't find any sources further explaining it.
Thanks again!
@@Ironpine27 I'm glad I could help! Enjoy your research
Here in Louisiana the easiest way to find hogs is to locate the damage they do. When acorns start dropping I look for stands of older oaks . The younger oaks also drop acorns but the hogs can clear a area of a young oak in a night so I just concentrate on larger stand of Oaks. Hogs also love to wallow in mud. Sometimes following shallow creeks will lead to a good mud hole. The mud holes that have little water but more consistantly mud. From the mud holes they will usualy rub off the mud on side of trees in the direction of their travel. Once you find their rubs and get a general direction of travel which is also dictated by terrain you can plot out a food source in that direction. They will bed up before heading into source . At this intersection is when understand wind currents and thermal winds comes in. Good news is when approaching hogs downwind you can smell them. They will have a odor. They are proud of their odor also . This is just a general on hogs .
Often times I will hear hogs long before I see them. Sometimes one will let out a loud squeal far off and other times when they are closer they often make loud noises when rooting.
Here is my definition if a good bowyer: He does'nt give a f*** about what others say about what it needs to be one and does'nt care telling others likewise. ;)
An interesting possible future video what tree species to use for bows depending on the region you live in the US.
Thank you for all the knowledge you have shared you have taught me alot. kind of like a second father.lol Can you show how to season your log after cutting it down and how to split it?
Hey Ryan I've been watching your videos for a very long time and you are a wealth of knowledge on bows and bow making. I've never seen anybody on RUclips explain the process the process on how the hadzabe make their bows in Africa. Their bows are very very different... they seem to be tapered like a toothpick on each end and usually they draw around 70 to 80 lb. If you have any information about how to make one of these bows I would love to know how. Generally speaking it seems like it would be an easier process than the way most bowyers make their bows.
I have seen that and probably don't really know anymore about them than you do from the various youtube documentaries. I also know the context is a little different too since they do a lot of hunting with dogs and poison arrows, so their bows don't necessarily have to be great performers. I too would like to know more and perhaps some day we can get some good data off them. If someone showed up with a grains scale and a chronograph, we could learn a lot
@@huntprimitive9918 here is a video on them shooting and making them
ruclips.net/video/Jgqlqm3FCfI/видео.html
I asked you about this bow because, as I was watching your video you came to a tree that had a small diameter. It reminded me a lot of the round shaped bows of the hazabe. Those are the type of branches and sticks that they use to make their bows. I was wondering if hickory would be a good wood to make a bow kind of like that?
I would like to see you make a bow out of persimmon.
Bom dia que trabalho maravilhoso e inspirador ,🏹🐖❤️🏕️
I look for top quality wood in terms of mechanical strength, even if there are some real curves, and then rough it out in a longbow form which is very easy to straighten, unlike a flatbow. Usually from a very small stock, rarely any thicker than a wrist. There are hardly any tall and straight trees where I live anyway.
This is the best channel when is the book coming out Ryan
thanks very much. I would like to say around the first of the year but it still may be a little while later after that. It's such a big undertaking to make sure we get the best data and information possible. I am very excited for it to be out though.
I can't be the only one who read the thumbnail as, "Hunting bow for staves"
Hop hornbeam is sometimes called a blue beech.
aloha i live in honolulu and in a hedgerow there was a dead standing tree about 10 ft tall i believe its pacific yew or Maki as thats what i googled searched by image of its leaves from a pic i took tree branched off into two im making a bow out of it smaller side well second bow but shorter, because it broke four inches from end so it was 48 inches now 44 inches , ive backed it with bamboo nothing traditional but full primative aside from bamboo backed my problem is now its stiff and hard to pull back ive tillered about ten, twelve times. well hard to describe but looks wise, its really nice .just hope i dont snap it ...the bigger piece is so beautiful its all curly from bottom to top about 8 foot long or tall funny thing is it stands on end on its own . wide base ... aloha ]
I really enjoy your videos that's a beautiful art one question do you sell bows
What characteristics would you look for in trees that your not familiar with and aren't readily identifiable as a bow wood here in Australia we don't have much of a history with the bow our aboriginal people tended to use spears with a Woomera, (our version of an atl atl ) fire and boomerangs to take game
Ryan, is it safe to shoot a wooden bow in cold temperatures, or could it damage the bow? I live in Norway and it can get very cold here during the winter.
yup it is just fine. I hunted several times below 0 with bows when I lived in montana
Sir what about "mallotus philippensis" as its common in my area?
I have a ton of wild persimmon trees. I am trying to make a bow from persimmon because the wood is beauyifl, an d many bowyers have told me it makes a great bow.
I have used a lot of it. from my experience it twists and warps a lot during the drying process. Bugs also love to bore into it. As far as performance goes, I would put it lower on the scale than hickory. Most fruit woods tend to be weaker in compression and develop frets on the belly.
@@huntprimitive9918 what about black jack (post oak). My post oak staves are twisted, but were twisted when I split it. I know how to get the twist out, and straighten them. This will be my first bow I've made since making bows out of sticks as a kid. I don't want to tear up good wood learning how, but I want a bow that will last a little while while a make like an Osage bow.
Here in Colorado the wood choice is thin, I know big oak trees aren't ideal but have you ever considered using gamble oak?
Awesome!
How bout Persimmon?? I live in south Louisiana and Persimmon is really common and it’s .9 on the density chart in my area. I’m going to give it a try! Thanks for the very informative videos!
Where in South LA? I'm near Lake Charles.
I have used a lot of it. from my experience it twists and warps a lot during the drying process. Bugs also love to bore into it. As far as performance goes, I would put it lower on the scale than hickory. Most fruit woods tend to be weaker in compression and develop frets on the belly. It will make a bow though for sure.
@@huntprimitive9918 Thanks for the reply and advise!
Where I live I don't have a whole lot of time and getting out into the woods so I'm wondering if I could go to the lumber yard and pick up a 2X2 hemlock the word of the hemlock would that make a good bow I do not know
Don't know if issue encountered by you, but, every elm I've cut had Indy borer holes. Some wood had less, some more. Hickory, not so much.
That said, not a bowler, just making a handle for a shovel or other hand tool or just a staff.
I have not seen elm with borers here fortunately. I hope to keep it that way!
Ash is good bow wood and I've used lightning struck willow
Hey Ryan, Love your show. I am soaking up everything... I don't get much good Osage in my area, although I have ten staves curing that are from 50 to 58" long. Also I find Osage branches that have a good reset to them from the drapping branches, 44 to54". Can these be made into bows. I have roughed out a few and removed the belly wood, side wood, and all of the white wood.The back I am assigning to the bottom of the branch, as it grew; so the belly is the top of the branch where the little shoots usually start growing. These branches can have about 5" of consistent curving reset (the back of the bow limbs curving away from you when holding the bow, in a shooting position, unstrung) I don't know if reset is the correct term. Second question. I split out some impressive staves from a hackberry trunk. They are 72" with a three inch back. Straight grained and straight as an arrow. What do you know about hackberry? Thanks for all your instructionals. You are a really good teacher with a great demeanor. (You probably don't know how many people you are a friend to) I always look forward to learning something new from you. Thanks again, Jason.
You mention black locust, any experience with honey locust?
Also curious about ash.
I've used black locust and made 2 pretty good bows. In my opinion, it and mulberry are the two closest to boisd'arc, with black locust being the easiest to work. It has to be handled like boisd'arc, the sap wood taken off down to the hard wood without compromising the back ring. Honey locust is junk. I'd cut it, burn the brush and poison the stumps.
Ash has been more like a crappy hickory to me. It doesn't take the stress that hickory will. Honey locust is pretty far down on the list from my experience with it. Joe McConnell has been doing a little more with honey locust with some success but still prefers black locust
I find it strange you didn't mention Hackberry
We don't have many of the trees in Minnesota that you mentioned, and the Hophornbeams grow with twisted grain. The only Hickory we have is the Bitternut Hickory. Would this make a good bow? We also have White, Green, and Black Ash. What would make the best bow?
I thought I saw a paw paw tree in the background but it could of been a small hickory anyway it's almost pawpaw season so it would be a cool video and most folks have no idea what they are lol
Just have to know the right shape for the right bow. Oak doesn't make a good flat bow. Make good long bows though
Don’t think there’s any high tier bow woods on my land. The thing is most of the trees I have no idea what they are. Only ones I have identified for sure is maple and oak. Found a sapling that might be osage orange(I have no idea). Bunch of trees that have sort of heart shaped leaves and green round acorn thingys.
Hi Ryan. In your opinion, is the benefit of ultra-narrow tips overstated for arrow speed?
What has been your experience with juniper bow making? Have you also tried piñón?
I don't have a lot of juniper experience, but that is something I would like a little more of. The few ive done have definitely needed backing to stay together. I think longevity issues are the biggest concerns with it, but I definitely don't have enough experience with it to make a full judgement
@@huntprimitive9918In my experience it's good idea to leave the drawlenght little shy from the appropriate average. It has a tendency to explode violently without warning when it breaks especially in cold. Might be a stretch but in north east Europe finnougric peoples made woods combining birch and compression pine spruce or juniper due to lack of good bow woods. Juniper is common in these parts of the world but it wasn't really common to use it as a selfbow. At least I have never seen any museum examples.
@@huntprimitive9918 All I have is red oak and some say it will work really well as a flatbow. Seems like all you like is Hickory and Osage
I live in New Mexico and have very limited tree options
Would trees that have been down for a year or two. Could I make a good bow out of them? They are Black Locust and Maple.
This video will answer about all your questions, The Secrets & Science of Building Bows & Arrows book is the best option, but this video will answer that and many more questions you will inevitable have. In short, most laying dead wood will break, they should be cut green and dried out of the elements. Good luck with your build . ruclips.net/video/ZX2izXy9BPk/видео.html
Plenty of yew here but im still determined to get a decant short bow with hazel for some reason 🙃🙃
Yáh'áh'téh.... Hello from the Navajo reservation coyote canyon NM here on the Navajo reservation that we don't have yew is there any way I can get some from you?
@@oso8146 I live the uk it would be very expensive for me to send
@@wildshadowmatic1571 lol...
Okay thanks anyway ☺️
@@oso8146 no worries 😊
I have a question I picked up a 2 X4 hemlock 6 ft long to make a bow would that work
To make a bow 🏹 can you use black walnut for the bow 🏹 .
Gonna have to watch again cause I started looking for Bigfoot.
What do you think of Choke Cherry Wood for bow making?
Don't have any personal experience making a bow from choke cherry. From what I've been told, it can make a very nice and fast shooting bow, with some special considerations. It tends to have better compression than tension, so a backing is advisable. Knots and pins can be especially dangerous. The bark can be deceptive, so it's hard to tell if the grain is growing twisted. The wood has certain properties that seem to make a fast shooting and smooth drawing bow, if its designed properly. But, again, this is only stuff I've heard, so take what I say with a grain of salt
O boy. Wish we had these trees in south africa. Have made a few mulberry bows. Your experience of Mulberry? We also have huney Locust. Have you tried it before.
What wood do you suggest if you’re in Colorado?
Nice video Ryan please show more tattoo videos they are looking good
Will you remove the Sapwood on those two half’s you are showing or use the sapwood as your backing? Thanks
Out of curiosity, have you ever trieda catalpa tree for making a bow? As a farmer, my father use to say that one catalpa post would wear out three holes. Lol
Aside from its durability I was just curious, and if you haven't tried would you? Thank you
Im in south texas near corpus christi and most of our trees are red oak and mesquite. Dont know if they are good or not
Can standing dead Osage be used for bows?
Ryan what's your opinion on Ash ?
Are you in Texas woods? Looks a lot like Florida though.
Wouldn't a person want to take a tree that you can get multiple staves from. Like 6 to10. Not just 1 to 2. More like a 80 foot tall , 3 foot round ... A full size, totally mature tree ? Wouldn't you get to pick out exactly where to cut to optimize bow strength & flexibility ?
Sure, if you can find one that's straight and has no twists or knots-- features characteristic of the older trees of most species
I know one or two boyers who use maple. What problems do you find with maple?
what about black walnut?
I live in the caribbean. Any idea what i can use?
Is Mulberry a good stave?I've heard it's the cousin to Osage.
Have you heard of mesquite being used? I'm having a hard time finding the ones you mentioned but mesquite is prevalent in my area
I’d think it would be doable. Don’t violate the rings. If you do treat it like Osage and isolate a ring, then back the bow.
How about maple tree, I read some where that the primitive people in Northern maine used maple or ash I don't know what other good bow trees there are here
The ash would be superior to the maple. Maple is typically softer and not as dense.
I'm in Florida, where would you recommend going to look for bow staves?
Anyone work with sassafras? My family has a cabin in the Poconos and it's prolific. Has some sentimental value for me and just curious if it's worth making a bow out of it.
what about aspen....could you tell me..would be appreciated
Does anyone know how good mulberry wood is? I think it’s related to locust, but I’m not sure.
can you use birch tree for bow?
Hello, Ryan! Do you think I can heat dry a black locust stave? All the best and good winds!!
yes for sure. you can heat dry about any wood really. I am doing a bit of that with locust right now and my buddy Joe McConnell is hardening and force drying quite a few black locusts
@@huntprimitive9918thank you, Ryan!! I'm on it!!!
Hay would a honey locust tree be about the same as black locust?
Where do you get your Osage from, I haven't seen any here in North Florida? Also, have you tried hackberry? The TBB lists it as a decent bow wood provided you can find a piece that isn't all wonky. My mom's place in VA is thick with hackberry, I'll cut some next time I'm up for a visit.
Hackberry is a very good bow wood. Density varies a lot. It likes a long slow heat treat on the belly. Light in the hand and more capable of stressed designs than people give it credit for. Steam bends very well for recurves / reflex or corrections. All things equal, and with a good heat treat, I prefer it over most whitewoods when dealing with larger trees. Elm is king in my book though when using Sapling - 4” or so diameter trees. All bow woods have their positive and negatives. Just got to find what you prefer most and most importantly, as the indigenous people did, use what you have available that works and make bows. Good luck.
@@Mwwright79 - Good info, thanks!
I haven't seen osage here either. I get osage from folks that have osage. As far as hackberry and the florida version (sugar berry), I know folks use it with success, but it's a bit lower on the list for me given the inconsistencies between staves and often stringy grain. I would choose other woods for sure if I had the option at hand
@@huntprimitive9918 - Thank you Gill
Is it better to make a bow from one smaller sapling or from a bigger tree where you can get multiple bows from it
I kinda discuss this throughout the video. It depends on what the context is.
Have you tried cedar?
Do you think black cherry would work okay? Had one drop in a tornado
Anyone ever try Rowan(mountain ash) or Pear Hawthorne?
Ever try backed chokecherry?
What about bodark?
Great👍
You have to be from South Jersey.
WHY would you kill a buffalo? Was there a reason you took it from the herd?
too bad I fell for the beginner's mistake an' cut my wood before this video 🤠
well it's ok since It's for personal use and I'm not such a perfectionist/professional as you are :D
tell me about it... :D
do you know anything about chokecherry its about all i can find near me
How do you get the wood from are you allowed to chop it down
What about dogwood?
I actually find one and discuss it later in the video
@@huntprimitive9918 nice I gotta watch in segments due to work interested to see it
American elm, nope. But slippery elm maybe. Slippery elm will split and, if caught in the spring, the bark will almost fall off. Problem is water content and drying cracks, twisting, that and identification. It's hard to tell one elm from another. But I have seen at least one historical Apache bow, senew backed, made from the stuff.
I have used american, slippery, and winged elm many times. They make a good bow for sure, but tougher to work overall. Winged elm is likely the toughest to work but it has made the best bows off all the elm I have tried. But you are right, slippery elm isn't nearly as tough to split but not as good I don't think either. I definitely agree with your assessments for sure.
@@huntprimitive9918 I have read that some of the ancient European bows were made of elm. They didn't follow a ring on the back but just simply hacked or split the bow out, the backs decrowned and sometimes violated. Elm is certainly the only wood that would stand up to such treatment. Have you ever had any experience with bows like that?
Mulberry rank? It’s yellow like Osage with milky sap.
mulberry is ok. Kinda similar to locust to me. The issue I have with it is typically if you have mulberry, you likely also have osage so I would always level up to osage given the chance. Mulberry should be added to the list as well, but It's not my first choice if I have others around
What are your thoughts on walnut?
What do you think about mulberry wood?
Mulberry is a very good bow wood. It's a cousin to Osage and almost as strong.
I live in New Mexico and we have a lot Desert Willow would this be a good wood?
willow isn't a good option at all. I would shoot for a sinew backed juniper out your way
@@huntprimitive9918 I watched the video again and noticed you said black locust but what about honey locust sorry to ask about an other wood but good wood is hard to find here I know we have cedar elm and white oak in areas
Your opinion on maple to Ryan
Anyone know of a good bow sealer that doesn't leave a glossy finish?
you can get mat finish sealers pretty easily. If you use a natural sealer like animal grease and a pine pitch blend, the shine will go away pretty quick.
@@huntprimitive9918 saw your video on the pine pitch mix, already backed the bow with snake skin.
Apple?
Yáh'áh'téh....
Hello from the Navajo reservation coyote canyon NM.
We don't have Osage or hickory here or yew all we have is juniper and oak but we have the most ugliest oak trees here is there anyone that could help me with any of these wood
You are so lucky to live in a place with nice wood you're very lucky Ryan
You guys definitely are limited in your available woods. I remember that quite well when I was living in Montana. I think sinew backed Juniper is definitely your best option.
Sassafras? I have a stave I plan to try out
definitely give it a go. It's a softer wood and isn't a great choice over all, but it will make a bow as many woods will. best of luck with it!
@@huntprimitive9918 yeah I messed it up lol went way too thin and tried evening it out and just kept making it worse so I may see it'll work as a kid bow for my nephew or something. I still plan to try and make a solid bow out of sassafras because it's everywhere around here and usually pin straight
which tree is it