Thanks for making these vids, man. I've seen some other great courses but they lacked the detail that a complete noob like myself would need to do this on my own. Yours, however, have answered a lot of my questions.
I know where there are a bunch of nice straight trees here in Willis TX. Unfortunately they are part of the foliage along a golf course in a gated community. LOL.
I think it would be pretty risky to take a green stave down to the final backing ring. I'd leave a few rings above What you want the back ring to be, then coat with glue. That would alow things to dry quicker. With that said, you don't want to take it down to close to finished deminsion while it's really green or it may develope drying cracks. Leave plenty of wood while drying.
My uncle cut a tree about 3 weeks ago and I was able to get to good sections about 63 inch's and fairly straight and about 8 inch's diameter , but the only problem was when I went ahead and split them into staves they where full of worms beneath the bark and the sap wood Wich was really disappointing, what note or advice can you give me for such a case? Thank you as always .
Osage is a very useful tree. Not only will it make a fine bow but a post of it will outlast any treated post on the market. It is great as a guard against corrosion because of the size and depth of its roots. Outdoor furniture is as durable a wood as there is if made from the wood. Dye can be made from it.
I use at least 3 layers. Layered in a brick pattern if that makes sense. With that said, sinew backing is a whole lot of work. If you're still new to bowmaking, you may want to perfect the selfbow first.
You can build a drying bow which consists of a light bulb and a small fan inside a long box to help speed things up. But I've never dealt with it so I can't offer any advice on the technique. I've been lucky enough to have a steady supply of osage. Best to cut way more than you need. That way, some can be drying while your working on the older, dryer stuff. Better get started!
I’m up in Daytona Beach, kinda want to go out to Ocala with some friends next time they go camping and see if I can find some and maybe bring it back to school. Not sure where I’d store it. The friends have their AC blasting at all times though, so I might see if they can hold onto it at their place for it’s cool temp and good air flow
Trunk or limb, it doesn't matter. As long as there's not much spiral, and you'll be able to manage with any knots and crooks that are in the wood. you may need to look through several dozen trees befor finding one you want to cut.
Yep, just look in the creek bottoms and old fence rows. You should be able to find some osage. Probably more than you'll ever want. Also, ask around. Locals can point you in the right direction.
While I was 'into' making Indian self-bows, I was somewhere in south Illinois and came upon a riverside park. Down on the bank I spied a number of 'crabapples' and upon investigation, discovered the very tall osage trees growing near the river bank. These magnificent trees will sometimes grow straight and tall to reach sunlight in certain environments, and I hated to leave these massive bodark trunks unharvested! One of my greatest regrets while driving a truck!
I've only used OO for fence posts and firewood as it is usually always too spiraled for anything else due to the wind here in KS. But it is such a beautiful color that I hate that so much of it is "wasted" for these uses. I'm curious about your wedges. They appear to be OO faced with phenolic. Is that correct? Do you use these materials to protect your saw & axe or to protect the staves you're splitting? What adhesive do you use to bond the OO and phenolic and what is the striking surface material?
My great grandfather taught me that bodock fence posts would outlast metal posts and over my 70 years I've found that to be the case. Been repairing some fencing on the place and the fence lines have numerous bodock posts that have well outlasted treated posts that were clearly put in the ground much later than the bodock posts. And the bodock posts are stll hard to sink a staple into without bending the staple.
Nice wood and you split the Osage about the same way we used to split tobacco barn wood which was Pine here in NC ..Wish I had an Osage stave for a bow..Cheers.
Man that osage looks bloody gorgeous, I'm from aus I have managed to find a few osage trees on old farms although the stuff I've been allowed to cut have been pretty pale compared to that stuff you have I read somewhere that the darker rich orange gold is the better quality osage, man send me one of those staves and I'll pay you triple it's worth plus postage,lol . love the video mate as always you have by far taught me more about building bows than anyone else .... shit wonder how much more I could learn from your DVDs .... anyways thanks so much for sharing your skills as a bowyer , I know that my journey learning this art has been alot less frustrating as it might have been without the knowledge i learned from your videos
We have 42 acres in south east ohio in adams co where hedge apple is over populated the place is full of big bucks after first frost those bucks stomp on the apple and eat it . Ive got several 2 and 3 year old logs 8 foot in our barn some split some still logs . Got to give it just a few more months to try this old draw knife out ive built 7 board bows this past winter learning the tiller method before i try and mess one up.
We don't get osage or yew or hickory here in South east asia. But I do have access to some cedar and silver oak here. Do you think they would be suitable for a self bow ?
Clay, I’ve got a question I cannot find the answer to for the life of me. If I cut a tree, take bark off and take off as much wood from the inside as possible, how soon can I finish a bow?
Hey thanks for the reply.. there was a small crack in my big end so I decided to go from that end and took it into account. The split did jump to the crack, but everything went smoothly. 6.4' English Ash 9/10 inches in diameter. The quarters are massive. 5 top to 6.6" base on the backside at least. Whats the minimum size you want a stave? What do you think? I should split my quarters into 8ths?
Those growth rings are damn large. I might have to grow some of those monsters. I woulda thought being one of the hardest woods around here that it would be slow growing but that looks like a solid tree. Being coppiced may have made the growth faster tho. Most of them in the wild will be twisted but won’t be like that they won’t as many different trunks.
I wish you luck on your project, looks like I'd better get started on my pile of black walnut that's been setting for at least 10 years those worm are up here in West Virginia also they love shag bark hickory and shell bark also. Get that wood while it's green if you know what I mean.
Clay have you ever done any greenwood work? There’s two techniques my tribe uses one is the seasoning for 2 years and another is greenwood. With the greenwood you rough out your bow then dry it with heat. Then go back and do your finishing and filleting. Just curious if you’ve ever done that and your thought on it. I haven’t made a bow yet. Figuring I’d do a board bow just to learn the basics before I go harvest any wood and make staves.
I live in NW Florida; just finished splitting a oak tree and walnut. Is it a good idea to loosely use plastic wrap to help dry evenly? Unfortunately have not been successful making a bow. New to all this stuff. Watching all your basic building videos often replaying them. Thank you.
Very interesting ! In Brittany we have yew but it is almost impossible to find straight limbs ,I made a longbow out of green yew wood without following too much the grain but it still works.. you have enough osage staves for a whole army (at Agincourt our army was defeated thanks to the yew longbows of the english army ) thanks..
Agincourt was won by the English because we were ahead in a number of ways. That soon turns out to be our apparent downfall, as happened when we lost France altogether pretty soon afterwards. Ancient war heros ( from the Osage tribe) were buried with their amazing bows. This wood FAR exceeds Yew in hardness.
I'm thinking about making a bow (maybe about 60" in length) out of hickory using a string i'll make from rawhide. I'm most likely going to get the hickory from a local lumber store that's already cut the board out (i'm thinking of one thats about 1in. x 2in. x 8ft to give me some leeway). Would these boards be alright for making a bow out of? By that i mean could i trust the wood to make a bow that's going to be around 40#-45#?
+Nathan Jones Hi Nathan, hickory boards will make a bow of that weight. You'll need to look through some of the lumber to find a board with straight grain that runs the length of the bow. good luck.
have planted some osage orange just hope i can keep it warm enough have an area in my garden that will be well away from everyone, so they should not get the needles stuck in them
Hey man I made a stick bow and got it dry and ready to put a string on and when I did the string is about an inch from center. Do I just shorten it and use it or is it garbage ?
If you mean the string is tracking off to one side, you should be able to heat the bow and bend it into alignment. I cover this in detail at www.patreon.com/clayhayes
Gold does grow in trees! Wish this grew in Britain, we have other hardwoods that can make a good bow and sometimes a piece of old Yew can be good but Osage is my favourite. I bought several staves years ago and shipped them here but taxes and shipping make it too expensive now.
Jared Ross from Missouri I live in northern Missouri and want to start building a bow. Whatced a lot of your videos. Great information. I want to know were I can buy my tools to start. We have a farm that is loaded with hedge. In going to cut some soon. Thanks for your videos
Hello. Great videos, thank you for sharing them! I have a question about drying and back work. I've been researching for a while; a book I'm using is Jim Hamm's, on Native American bows. He strips the bark and reduces close to stave size right after splitting, and coats the back and tips with carpenter's glue, for faster drying and preventing bugs. If I do this method, when I later work the back to one growth ring would i take off the glue only, or go a couple rings beneath that which it was on?
Is the drying time different for other types of tree? also, what are the signs that your stave is ready (dry enough) to be worked on? Thanks for this video.
J HAVOK I’m no expert, and you’re probably a master by now, but some woods have high concentrations of tyloses which reduce water flow. These woods will dry slower. White oak, Osage, and black locust have LOTS of tyloses. This is why these woods are considered stable and one of the reasons they’re rot resistant (black locust and Osage are very special you should check out what’s behind their rot resistance). Woods like hickory, ash, and red oak have few tyloses which allows them to dry quickly, but they won’t be stable under wet conditions and will rot easier.
+Trini Nigerian I don't use a rasp on osage because you cut across the grain with that tool. I want to follow all the dips in the grain and a dull draw knife allows me to do that much quicker. I do use a rasp on whitewoods like hickory though.
Hi there, I've got a little question that is bugging me a bit.. Is it better to split the log/branch before seasoning it, or will it be better to leave it whole, so the bark can cover the entirety of the wood and only the ends have to be painted/sealed? I am dealing with hazel so the trunks will be much more smaller than the ones you show in the video
You would be hard pressed to find any hedge over 3 feet long in iowa those days are long gone story goes it used to be everywhere. I hunted for it for years best I could come up with is enough to make billets and bamboo back then . My bowyer hero was Dean Torges who is now deceased but the knowledge he shared with us was priceless. Read hunting the Osage bow by him it’s a wonderful book
Bodocks (bois d'arc for the purists) make the best fence posts I've ever encountered and used here in Alabama. Bodock fence posts will outlast metal posts and treated wood posts due to the hardness and density of the wood. And be prepared to sharpen the chain often if you're going to be sawing a lot of Bodock. But never, never hit an ax head with the sledge hammer, it'll destroy the head.
Something I don't understand... You say that you don't sell bows yet you have enough wood just right there to make at least 100 of them. How long does a bow last you? I figured a well made bow like the ones you produce would last a VERY long time if properly cared for. Would you mind enlightening me?
+Hog Hunting and Survival Sure thing. I've seen good bows last a lifetime. The reason I don't sell bows is that I can't make it pay. It takes a long time and people just aren't willing to pay that much for a selfbow.
Clay Hayes I gotcha brother! I understand though and can't say I blame you. I wouldn't either that being the case. However, You're a great bow maker! By the way, how are you liking your Chris Reade Knife? Have you used it field dressing yet? How did it perform for you?
+Hog Hunting and Survival I've been wearing it everyday and am really liking it. The blade is nice and heavy. At first I thought it was a little off balance because of that but after using it for a while it just feels natural. I've skinned and quartered two elk with it this season and it's worked out like a champ. Holds an edge great. He's also got a skinner that might work better for that. I've got he woodsman version. The tip on this one is a little narrow for skinning but if you're careful you can get it done without cutting holes in the hide.
Thanks Clay! I've been talking to Chris a lot and am really wanting to get a knife from him. I'm wanting to try his N690 steel and was worried about chipping when it comes to feild dressing. I'm a hog hunter and really need something that isn't going to chip out when it impacts the bone. Your info really helps brother, thanks!
+Hog Hunting and Survival I don't think that would be a problem. I've been using it for all sorts of chores around camp. Splitting kindling, etc. and it holds up like a champ.
I will never live this down. I bought a property in Illinois, and it had an osage orange tree that had blown over. It was completely straight and the dimensions were 3.5-4 feet diameter and 15 feet long! I burned it, before I knew what it was! It took days and days to burn. It was 100's of years old and I didn't realize the value of it. I just wanted to cry when I found out.
If you talk to folks over in Sumter County they'll probably give you all the Mock (Osage) Orange that you are willing to take off their hands. It's rarely used for anything other than fire wood or fence posts. It has to be the worst wood to cut with a chainsaw and it isn't good for lumber.
Where are you at in Idaho? I am a bowyer myself and in living in Rexburg about an hour and 20 minutes north of Pocatello. I dont know if you are close or if you have any left but Id kill to get my hands on a good piece of Osage. Ive never been blessed to come acrossed any. thanks for the video.
+Trini Nigerian Persimmon, eastern red cedar, hornbeam, red maple, black gum, yellow poplar, and probably some others I can't remember. The first three make good bows. The last three are exceedingly poor.
on ebay I can buy osage stave for $25-35. it was harvested in oct 17 and already bark is stripped off it . is that safe to buy. I like the osage you found that was great looking stuff.
Hmm, I'd be very cautious of a stave that cheap. Either they're poor quality or they don't value their time nearly as much as I do. A good osage stave from a reputable dealer will usually run anywhere from 80 - 140 bucks.
Clay, great videos, very informative. Thinking of trying to make a bow as a hobby. I have a fair amount of Bois D'Arc on my property. I've several trees that are possible candidates. What would you recommend as the minimum diameter trunk/limb and minimum length that you can make a good stave out of. Also, some of the possible limbs look like they might be dead already, but otherwise look fairly strait, not a lot of visible rot on the outside etc, just guessing they are dead based on looks of the upper branches (the new leaves aren't out yet), are those workable, or do you always need to start with live wood, thanks.
Dead wood is usually no problem. Osage is very rot resistent. The length of the stave is up to you and the type of bow you want to make. Some plains indian bows were very short, say less than 50 inches. I've made bows from trees as small as 3 inches diameter.
Hi how are you. I would like to know if you can sell me a stave of Orange Osage and a stave of Yew? If you can not, maybe you know some one how can sell me these Staves?
Clay Hayes I believe you but it's really far for me and not knowing anyone Alabama my choices are limited to northern white ash, hornbeam, black locust, juniper but no osage up here in the northeast.
I've got a hundred acres of forest I could get bow wood from plus my farm joins a fairly large national forest, but no osage anywhere. I've never even seen an osage nor a yew tree and those are supposed to be the best for bow making.
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Thanks for making these vids, man. I've seen some other great courses but they lacked the detail that a complete noob like myself would need to do this on my own. Yours, however, have answered a lot of my questions.
You're welcome
Yep. Hedge, or hedge apple, are also common names for osage.
My 20 acres in NE Kansas is full of Orange Osage (Hedge). Hate the hedge apples, but love how strong they are. Burns super hot when seasoned.
I know where there are a bunch of nice straight trees here in Willis TX.
Unfortunately they are part of the foliage along a golf course in a gated community.
LOL.
I think it would be pretty risky to take a green stave down to the final backing ring. I'd leave a few rings above What you want the back ring to be, then coat with glue. That would alow things to dry quicker. With that said, you don't want to take it down to close to finished deminsion while it's really green or it may develope drying cracks. Leave plenty of wood while drying.
My uncle cut a tree about 3 weeks ago and I was able to get to good sections about 63 inch's and fairly straight and about 8 inch's diameter , but the only problem was when I went ahead and split them into staves they where full of worms beneath the bark and the sap wood Wich was really disappointing, what note or advice can you give me for such a case? Thank you as always .
Osage is a very useful tree. Not only will it make a fine bow but a post of it will outlast any treated post on the market. It is great as a guard against corrosion because of the size and depth of its roots. Outdoor furniture is as durable a wood as there is if made from the wood. Dye can be made from it.
I use at least 3 layers. Layered in a brick pattern if that makes sense. With that said, sinew backing is a whole lot of work. If you're still new to bowmaking, you may want to perfect the selfbow first.
closer to where? Osage is common throughout the midwest, from eastern Texas to Illinois.
Great work here bud. Love the simplicity. Awesome video. Much love from texas
mrPauljacob Thanks
I appreciate this video. It let me know how much work, time, and space you need for preparing those staves.
Mahlyndah yep, but worth it in the end.
You can build a drying bow which consists of a light bulb and a small fan inside a long box to help speed things up. But I've never dealt with it so I can't offer any advice on the technique. I've been lucky enough to have a steady supply of osage. Best to cut way more than you need. That way, some can be drying while your working on the older, dryer stuff. Better get started!
That's so true Tim, good catch. I usually do wear saw chaps, but didn't have any for this trip down south.
i actually like this splitting video the best out of your others... some good looks at what you cut and split.. well done!
I’m up in Daytona Beach, kinda want to go out to Ocala with some friends next time they go camping and see if I can find some and maybe bring it back to school. Not sure where I’d store it. The friends have their AC blasting at all times though, so I might see if they can hold onto it at their place for it’s cool temp and good air flow
Trunk or limb, it doesn't matter. As long as there's not much spiral, and you'll be able to manage with any knots and crooks that are in the wood. you may need to look through several dozen trees befor finding one you want to cut.
Why did you split the wood when green ???
I love the color of the wood
Could you make a bow out of a straight 6 foot long 2.5 inch Osage limb?
I have a straight log to split for staves.. Do I start with the big end or the little end?
Tim, if I wanted lumber for flooring that'd be great. Problem is, a saw doesn't follow the grain, which is very important in bow making.
Yep, just look in the creek bottoms and old fence rows. You should be able to find some osage. Probably more than you'll ever want. Also, ask around. Locals can point you in the right direction.
Thanks! I'd like to try Osage for a Banjo bridge.
While I was 'into' making Indian self-bows, I was somewhere in south Illinois and came upon a riverside park. Down on the bank I spied a number of 'crabapples' and upon investigation, discovered the very tall osage trees growing near the river bank. These magnificent trees will sometimes grow straight and tall to reach sunlight in certain environments, and I hated to leave these massive bodark trunks unharvested!
One of my greatest regrets while driving a truck!
I've only used OO for fence posts and firewood as it is usually always too spiraled for anything else due to the wind here in KS. But it is such a beautiful color that I hate that so much of it is "wasted" for these uses. I'm curious about your wedges. They appear to be OO faced with phenolic. Is that correct? Do you use these materials to protect your saw & axe or to protect the staves you're splitting? What adhesive do you use to bond the OO and phenolic and what is the striking surface material?
My great grandfather taught me that bodock fence posts would outlast metal posts and over my 70 years I've found that to be the case. Been repairing some fencing on the place and the fence lines have numerous bodock posts that have well outlasted treated posts that were clearly put in the ground much later than the bodock posts. And the bodock posts are stll hard to sink a staple into without bending the staple.
I've made primitive arrows the suckers of sparkelberry, arrow wood, willow, yaupon holly, etc. Never from osage suckers though.
Any tips for making good hard wooden wedges Sir, awesome stuff.
Nice wood and you split the Osage about the same way we used to split tobacco barn wood which was Pine here in NC ..Wish I had an Osage stave for a bow..Cheers.
Awesome man never seen anything that clean
Those were good staves for sure.
Man that osage looks bloody gorgeous, I'm from aus I have managed to find a few osage trees on old farms although the stuff I've been allowed to cut have been pretty pale compared to that stuff you have I read somewhere that the darker rich orange gold is the better quality osage, man send me one of those staves and I'll pay you triple it's worth plus postage,lol . love the video mate as always you have by far taught me more about building bows than anyone else .... shit wonder how much more I could learn from your DVDs .... anyways thanks so much for sharing your skills as a bowyer , I know that my journey learning this art has been alot less frustrating as it might have been without the knowledge i learned from your videos
We have 42 acres in south east ohio in adams co where hedge apple is over populated the place is full of big bucks after first frost those bucks stomp on the apple and eat it . Ive got several 2 and 3 year old logs 8 foot in our barn some split some still logs . Got to give it just a few more months to try this old draw knife out ive built 7 board bows this past winter learning the tiller method before i try and mess one up.
I'm pretty jealous about all this wonderful Osage :D
You are not very smart.
We don't get osage or yew or hickory here in South east asia. But I do have access to some cedar and silver oak here. Do you think they would be suitable for a self bow ?
I have no idea
You could probably split them again. try one to see how it works out.
How to prevent worms? Using an antiseptic for wood or....?
Would keeping the stave indoors in a dehumified area help dry time?
Yep
excellent! i found my first Osage Tree today ,your information is appreciated.thanks from Detroit
good luck
Are the osage orange tree very prevalent in the are you are in fella ???
This was really interesting to watch! I am happy for you for getting such a nice tree!
Have you ever tried using a solar kiln to dry your staves?
Clay, I’ve got a question I cannot find the answer to for the life of me. If I cut a tree, take bark off and take off as much wood from the inside as possible, how soon can I finish a bow?
Depends on the species. For hickory, could be as little as a few weeks. For osage, much longer.
Hey thanks for the reply.. there was a small crack in my big end so I decided to go from that end and took it into account. The split did jump to the crack, but everything went smoothly. 6.4' English Ash 9/10 inches in diameter. The quarters are massive. 5 top to 6.6" base on the backside at least. Whats the minimum size you want a stave? What do you think? I should split my quarters into 8ths?
Those growth rings are damn large. I might have to grow some of those monsters. I woulda thought being one of the hardest woods around here that it would be slow growing but that looks like a solid tree. Being coppiced may have made the growth faster tho. Most of them in the wild will be twisted but won’t be like that they won’t as many different trunks.
I wish you luck on your project, looks like I'd better get started on my pile of black walnut that's been setting for at least 10 years those worm are up here in West Virginia also they love shag bark hickory and shell bark also. Get that wood while it's green if you know what I mean.
I know this is an old video but I love your bow building tutorials
+Ben Hayward thanks Ben.
Clay have you ever done any greenwood work? There’s two techniques my tribe uses one is the seasoning for 2 years and another is greenwood. With the greenwood you rough out your bow then dry it with heat. Then go back and do your finishing and filleting. Just curious if you’ve ever done that and your thought on it. I haven’t made a bow yet. Figuring I’d do a board bow just to learn the basics before I go harvest any wood and make staves.
I’ve done it with hickory and eastern red cedar. Other woods tend to develop drying checks if done that way.
Great info, love the channel... surprised I didn't find it sooner.
Also called horse apple tree or Bois D' Arc or wood of the Ark. It is a very hard wood and can be tough on machinery.
I live in NW Florida; just finished splitting a oak tree and walnut. Is it a good idea to loosely use plastic wrap to help dry evenly? Unfortunately have not been successful making a bow. New to all this stuff. Watching all your basic building videos often replaying them. Thank you.
Very interesting ! In Brittany we have yew but it is almost impossible to find straight limbs ,I made a longbow out of green yew wood without following too much the grain but it still works.. you have enough osage staves for a whole army (at Agincourt our army was defeated thanks to the yew longbows of the english army ) thanks..
+Youenn thank you
Agincourt was won by the English because we were ahead in a number of ways. That soon turns out to be our apparent downfall, as happened when we lost France altogether pretty soon afterwards. Ancient war heros ( from the Osage tribe) were buried with their amazing bows. This wood FAR exceeds Yew in hardness.
It makes a great wood for bbq, not many know this of the Bois D’Arc I’ve used old dead limbs for years, careful though as it burns very hot.
I'm thinking about making a bow (maybe about 60" in length) out of hickory using a string i'll make from rawhide. I'm most likely going to get the hickory from a local lumber store that's already cut the board out (i'm thinking of one thats about 1in. x 2in. x 8ft to give me some leeway). Would these boards be alright for making a bow out of? By that i mean could i trust the wood to make a bow that's going to be around 40#-45#?
+Nathan Jones Hi Nathan, hickory boards will make a bow of that weight. You'll need to look through some of the lumber to find a board with straight grain that runs the length of the bow. good luck.
I just want a quarter sawn board to make a ukulele body out of. Where can I get some?
Not sure. It's not a wood that's usually sawn.
do you have to use a big trunk like that or could you use a smaller limb?
+taco logic you could use smaller stuff.
Can persimmon wood or honey locust wood be used for bow staves?
The first dozen or so bows I made were from persimmon.
have planted some osage orange just hope i can keep it warm enough have an area in my garden that will be well away from everyone, so they should not get the needles stuck in them
Hey man I made a stick bow and got it dry and ready to put a string on and when I did the string is about an inch from center. Do I just shorten it and use it or is it garbage ?
If you mean the string is tracking off to one side, you should be able to heat the bow and bend it into alignment. I cover this in detail at www.patreon.com/clayhayes
Gold does grow in trees! Wish this grew in Britain, we have other hardwoods that can make a good bow and sometimes a piece of old Yew can be good but Osage is my favourite. I bought several staves years ago and shipped them here but taxes and shipping make it too expensive now.
Jared Ross from Missouri
I live in northern Missouri and want to start building a bow. Whatced a lot of your videos. Great information. I want to know were I can buy my tools to start. We have a farm that is loaded with hedge. In going to cut some soon. Thanks for your videos
I’d search eBay for a vintage draw knife. Mine is an old Greenlee.
I wish you lived closer. I have a lot of questions. I always shot instinctively but never 100 percent satisfied. Trying to learn your style.
Hello. Great videos, thank you for sharing them! I have a question about drying and back work. I've been researching for a while; a book I'm using is Jim Hamm's, on Native American bows. He strips the bark and reduces close to stave size right after splitting, and coats the back and tips with carpenter's glue, for faster drying and preventing bugs. If I do this method, when I later work the back to one growth ring would i take off the glue only, or go a couple rings beneath that which it was on?
Hamm's book is where I began to learn to craft Indian wood bows. Excellent reference!!
Is the drying time different for other types of tree? also, what are the signs that your stave is ready (dry enough) to be worked on? Thanks for this video.
J HAVOK I’m no expert, and you’re probably a master by now, but some woods have high concentrations of tyloses which reduce water flow. These woods will dry slower. White oak, Osage, and black locust have LOTS of tyloses. This is why these woods are considered stable and one of the reasons they’re rot resistant (black locust and Osage are very special you should check out what’s behind their rot resistance). Woods like hickory, ash, and red oak have few tyloses which allows them to dry quickly, but they won’t be stable under wet conditions and will rot easier.
So I noticed you didn't use wood rasp in tillering. Why is that?
+Trini Nigerian I don't use a rasp on osage because you cut across the grain with that tool. I want to follow all the dips in the grain and a dull draw knife allows me to do that much quicker. I do use a rasp on whitewoods like hickory though.
Hi there, I've got a little question that is bugging me a bit.. Is it better to split the log/branch before seasoning it, or will it be better to leave it whole, so the bark can cover the entirety of the wood and only the ends have to be painted/sealed? I am dealing with hazel so the trunks will be much more smaller than the ones you show in the video
Ps. During which season did you do this cuts? Hope that you see this, thank you
+Whathellllll I cut these trees in winter. With small trees you can leave them whole or split them. Doesn't matter.
You would be hard pressed to find any hedge over 3 feet long in iowa those days are long gone story goes it used to be everywhere. I hunted for it for years best I could come up with is enough to make billets and bamboo back then . My bowyer hero was Dean Torges who is now deceased but the knowledge he shared with us was priceless. Read hunting the Osage bow by him it’s a wonderful book
What will happen if we use the chain saw to split the wood?
+ZK 5641 a saw wouldn't follow the grain, plus it'd be harder to do.
Live in south Florida what is the range to find theses trees growing? We have some of the toughest oak growing here
I’ve found a few in north Florida. Lots in central Alabama.
Great how-to! Have you made any arrows out of the suckers/young shoots? I
That Husky is bigger than a 55 rancher what size is that ?? I love huskies ~!~!
Bodocks (bois d'arc for the purists) make the best fence posts I've ever encountered and used here in Alabama. Bodock fence posts will outlast metal posts and treated wood posts due to the hardness and density of the wood. And be prepared to sharpen the chain often if you're going to be sawing a lot of Bodock. But never, never hit an ax head with the sledge hammer, it'll destroy the head.
Something I don't understand...
You say that you don't sell bows yet you have enough wood just right there to make at least 100 of them.
How long does a bow last you? I figured a well made bow like the ones you produce would last a VERY long time if properly cared for. Would you mind enlightening me?
+Hog Hunting and Survival Sure thing. I've seen good bows last a lifetime. The reason I don't sell bows is that I can't make it pay. It takes a long time and people just aren't willing to pay that much for a selfbow.
Clay Hayes I gotcha brother! I understand though and can't say I blame you. I wouldn't either that being the case. However, You're a great bow maker! By the way, how are you liking your Chris Reade Knife? Have you used it field dressing yet? How did it perform for you?
+Hog Hunting and Survival I've been wearing it everyday and am really liking it. The blade is nice and heavy. At first I thought it was a little off balance because of that but after using it for a while it just feels natural. I've skinned and quartered two elk with it this season and it's worked out like a champ. Holds an edge great. He's also got a skinner that might work better for that. I've got he woodsman version. The tip on this one is a little narrow for skinning but if you're careful you can get it done without cutting holes in the hide.
Thanks Clay! I've been talking to Chris a lot and am really wanting to get a knife from him. I'm wanting to try his N690 steel and was worried about chipping when it comes to feild dressing. I'm a hog hunter and really need something that isn't going to chip out when it impacts the bone. Your info really helps brother, thanks!
+Hog Hunting and Survival I don't think that would be a problem. I've been using it for all sorts of chores around camp. Splitting kindling, etc. and it holds up like a champ.
I will never live this down. I bought a property in Illinois, and it had an osage orange tree that had blown over. It was completely straight and the dimensions were 3.5-4 feet diameter and 15 feet long! I burned it, before I knew what it was! It took days and days to burn. It was 100's of years old and I didn't realize the value of it. I just wanted to cry when I found out.
Doh!
@@clayhayeshunter HAHAHA. yeah if a "Doh" can be followed by tears.
@@clayhayeshunter More like DOUGH! $$$
@Clay Hayes, how in the world did you get that much Osage into your truck?!
Glader08 Ha, it was riding on the axel stops... Osage is heavy stuff.
You got Osage in Florida? Where in Florida does it grow?
This was all cut in central alabama.
So between traditional bows and primitive bows, which do you think fits better with you as an archer?
Have you ever made bow wood from hickory or ash?
Hi FolksI live in central Alabama. How are is it possible for me to get a section of this wool from you. Thanks Remington Magnum
If you talk to folks over in Sumter County they'll probably give you all the Mock (Osage) Orange that you are willing to take off their hands. It's rarely used for anything other than fire wood or fence posts. It has to be the worst wood to cut with a chainsaw and it isn't good for lumber.
Where in Idaho are you? Would it be possible to get a stave from you? I'm in Northern Utah.
Where are you at in Idaho? I am a bowyer myself and in living in Rexburg about an hour and 20 minutes north of Pocatello. I dont know if you are close or if you have any left but Id kill to get my hands on a good piece of Osage. Ive never been blessed to come acrossed any. thanks for the video.
Bo Hurley Hi Bo, I used to live near Ririe but now I'm up near Lewiston. Shoot me an email at the website. www.twistedstave.com
And have you ever made bow from eastern woods from the east coast?
+Trini Nigerian Persimmon, eastern red cedar, hornbeam, red maple, black gum, yellow poplar, and probably some others I can't remember. The first three make good bows. The last three are exceedingly poor.
on ebay I can buy osage stave for $25-35. it was harvested in oct 17 and already bark is stripped off it . is that safe to buy. I like the osage you found that was great looking stuff.
Hmm, I'd be very cautious of a stave that cheap. Either they're poor quality or they don't value their time nearly as much as I do. A good osage stave from a reputable dealer will usually run anywhere from 80 - 140 bucks.
Clay Hayes Is it safe to say a stack of staves like you featured are worth about 5-7k?
Clay, great videos, very informative. Thinking of trying to make a bow as a hobby. I have a fair amount of Bois D'Arc on my property. I've several trees that are possible candidates. What would you recommend as the minimum diameter trunk/limb and minimum length that you can make a good stave out of. Also, some of the possible limbs look like they might be dead already, but otherwise look fairly strait, not a lot of visible rot on the outside etc, just guessing they are dead based on looks of the upper branches (the new leaves aren't out yet), are those workable, or do you always need to start with live wood, thanks.
Dead wood is usually no problem. Osage is very rot resistent. The length of the stave is up to you and the type of bow you want to make. Some plains indian bows were very short, say less than 50 inches. I've made bows from trees as small as 3 inches diameter.
Does Osage grow in Florida?
Not much
I am getting a lot out of your videos. Thank you for sharing.
jtkunzie You're welcome.
Sorry, I meant a bow. Love your videos. Very helpful in tutoring.
+Trini Nigerian I've made hickory bows, but never worked with ash. I hear it can make a good bow though.
hi how much would you charge to make a bow ?,close to 55lb and the cost for shipping to new zealand ? just give a price ;)
Hi how are you. I would like to know if you can sell me a stave of Orange Osage and a stave of Yew? If you can not, maybe you know some one how can sell me these Staves?
i normally make a cut up from the bottom and then down from the top so it doesnt trap the saw
what is the reason you are splitting it
I'm going to make bows out of all those split pieces.
thanks for your reply.....bows...what kind
i always start from the small end, but i don't think it matters much.
Καλησπέρα τη δένδρο είναι?
Can i take it for hornbow ?
Clay, keep one of the half pieces. We should try a rifle stock. I've made pistol grips. But not a rifle stock.
Florida huh? I’m gonna be heading over to Daytona Beach for college in a couple months, reckon they’ll be any good wood there?
you'll need to go north to central alabama.
And I do enjoy your videos, they are very informative.
Looks like your wedges are made of bodark, too?
They are.
I've a 17 year old stave in the barn rafter.
Are these the same tree as the hedge hog tree......man here in Kansas their everywhere.
+Deer-the other red meat Hedge apple.
Bloody good add for husquvana chain saws btw ;) they just don't stop!
i rather Huskies myself I rebuild them ~!~!
The Pro loggers choice with Sthil close behind. Yup.
Really beautiful piece of Osage you lucky dog.
There's tons of it down there.
Clay Hayes I believe you but it's really far for me and not knowing anyone Alabama my choices are limited to northern white ash, hornbeam, black locust, juniper but no osage up here in the northeast.
I've got a hundred acres of forest I could get bow wood from plus my farm joins a fairly large national forest, but no osage anywhere. I've never even seen an osage nor a yew tree and those are supposed to be the best for bow making.
WHAT DO U DO WITH THE WOOD
Make bows