I have always thought LED lights are a bright idea, so much better then incandescent bulbs and they last a long time, and don’t heat up as much. Thanks Dave for the update install information!
I do believe that my dash bulbs in my '68 are the push in and twist bulbs, part no. 67 or 89, not the bayonet style 194 as shown, but it's been 15 years or so since I've been in there.
Robert, you are partially correct. ALL 67-72 dashes have twist in sockets, but they are JUST Sockets, then your bulbs actually press in to the socket. Here's a link the to socket on our website: www.brotherstrucks.com/1967-72-CHEVY_GMC-INSTRUMENT-PANEL-LIGHT-SOCKET/productinfo/IPLS072/
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV thank you for the correction. Now to decide if I want to just upgrade my dash lights or upgrade my dash panel to digital when I do my LS swap.
I have a 1986 K10 short bed, that short bed injection really counts when talking about the dash instrumentation... Ha. That inset pic of the original incandescent lighting is not representative oF MY dash lights. My dash lights were SO DIM, that they might as well not be on. I actually bought a GPS self lighting bicycle computer to see the mileage and speed (MPH) of the truck. More on this later. I had some work done on the truck and when I got it back, my instruments, other than the speedometer, were dead. My voltage, Temperature and fuel level were non responsive. Now These square bodies come with a 16 gallon fuel tank. MY K10 averages 10 MPG so I'm good for 160 miles per tank. Without the fuel guage working, you stand a good chance of running out of gas. The GPS bicycle cyclometer tracks speed and mileage. I had the carborator worked on before this fiasco, so when I reached 100 miles, I checked the mileage, I was at 14 mpg. Even better. I was prepared to use the GPS Bicycle cyclometer to track gas should the tank level device be bad till I can drop the tank. thank goodness, that was good. So the job of going into the dash that I had put off for years now, had to be done. I had done some work in the past when I added some LED indicators in the lower left position, which on my dash was blank. Those indicators were for some switches to indicate they were on or off. To get to the guages, all you have to take off is the bezel, the clear plastic dust screen and the light reflector bezel. Some time in the past, GM switched from guages that had screw terminal to guages that just plugged in. If you had the screw type terminals, you had to remove the entire guage instrument panel assembly. Luckily, my model has the plug in guages. Watching the vids, there are scenarios were the guages can be burnt out or the printed ckt could have burnt open, but lets call this extreme. Fact that most don't know is, the guages have a resistor on the back in ckt with the sensors that feed them signal. I am told, that 8 times out of 10, that resistor will go bad. When it does the guage associated with it stops working. I tested the resistors and every one was burnt out. And yes these are specific resistors for the guage, and if you can find them will cost about $25 to $35 EACH. But you can replace them with a 5 watt 90 ohm CERAMIC resistor for about $5 apiece. Now along this adventure of fixing the guages, my dash lighting was terrible. I thought I recalled that when the truck was newer, the dash lights were brighter, but today, you can hardly see them. Maybe its my eyes, or the incandescent bulbs turning dark from use but the dash is dark. HUGE TIP, now that you are pulling the guages, you have access to the bulbs to replace with LED bulbs. Put the parking lights on as you put them in as they are polarized, if you plug them in and they don't light, pull them and turn them around. With all the lights replaced you can plug in the guages and test for operation. All my guages came back, big thumbs up. Reassembling the panel was fast and that evening I took it for a drive and enjoyed the best bright dash lights, that ARE Dimmable to the headlight control switch. WELL WORTH THE UPGRADE.
I just got finish reinstalling, my dash cluster cluster with new lights and wires, I noticed that now my lights are flickering, I'm guessing that it might be a ground do you know what it could be?
Are the polarity free? LED are usually polarity specific so trying to figure out which is positive and negative on that circuit shit behind the gauges would be super frustrating
AgentSmith these bulbs are polarity specific. They won’t work if they’re installed in reverse. I upgraded mine a while ago and the difference is like “night and day”. You can get different colors too. I have a red and black interior and I have gone with red bulbs before. They look cool but not as bright as the clear, or white ones. You’ll definitely like them. The bulbs have a positive and negative marking on them so you can tell how they go in. Look at your circuit board and you’ll see which side supplies the ground. The four bulb sockets for the dash illumination have one ribbon supplied for the ground side of each socket as well as the b+ on the other ribbon. I think pin #1 is the ground side, but don’t take my word for it. I’m sitting here at 5am having coffee and can’t recall fully. It’s easy though, if you can follow the board schematic. I installed all new bulbs for the turn signals and high beam indicator too. It’s a pain to plug in the cluster with the oil gauge and speedometer hooked up though, as you know. I fabricated a sub harness that allows for more length of the main plug. I cut in and spliced in 2 separate 6 pin flat connectors that are about 8 inches long so I don’t need to unplug the main harness every time I need access. The circuit board can be damaged where the plug goes if you’re not careful and need to remove it many times like I did when rebuilding my dash. I also lengthen my oil supply line to the gauge for ease of removing the compression fitting. Hey, I’ve got an idea! Brothers, and Dave, why not make a factory style sub harness for the dash plug that allows the original plug to attach with a new male/female connector at each end? Of course I would want a cut of the proceeds from whoever comes up with the prototype and puts it into the market! After all, I was the first to come up with the invention that I know of. Everyone has heard it first here! Good luck guys!
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I have always thought LED lights are a bright idea, so much better then incandescent bulbs and they last a long time, and don’t heat up as much. Thanks Dave for the update install information!
I love your videos Dave! Keep them coming! Currently trying to restored a 1970 C10.
Good luck with the project!
I am going to end up ordering my entire damn truck from brothers....lol
We're ready when you are!
I do believe that my dash bulbs in my '68 are the push in and twist bulbs, part no. 67 or 89, not the bayonet style 194 as shown, but it's been 15 years or so since I've been in there.
Robert, you are partially correct. ALL 67-72 dashes have twist in sockets, but they are JUST Sockets, then your bulbs actually press in to the socket. Here's a link the to socket on our website: www.brotherstrucks.com/1967-72-CHEVY_GMC-INSTRUMENT-PANEL-LIGHT-SOCKET/productinfo/IPLS072/
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV thank you for the correction. Now to decide if I want to just upgrade my dash lights or upgrade my dash panel to digital when I do my LS swap.
@@robertemmons2260 LED's are an inexpensive swap... so basically we suggest you do BOTH. LED's now, and digital dash later, problem solved!
Sounds great. Do they adjust the same. can I still dim them down when I need to?
We have them in a couple trucks here at he shop and they are dim-able but the extra light is so nice we never dim them.
I have a 1986 K10 short bed, that short bed injection really counts when talking about the dash instrumentation... Ha.
That inset pic of the original incandescent lighting is not representative oF MY dash lights.
My dash lights were SO DIM, that they might as well not be on.
I actually bought a GPS self lighting bicycle computer to see the mileage and speed (MPH) of the truck. More on this later.
I had some work done on the truck and when I got it back, my instruments, other than the speedometer, were dead.
My voltage, Temperature and fuel level were non responsive.
Now These square bodies come with a 16 gallon fuel tank. MY K10 averages 10 MPG so I'm good for 160 miles per tank.
Without the fuel guage working, you stand a good chance of running out of gas.
The GPS bicycle cyclometer tracks speed and mileage.
I had the carborator worked on before this fiasco, so when I reached 100 miles, I checked the mileage, I was at 14 mpg. Even better.
I was prepared to use the GPS Bicycle cyclometer to track gas should the tank level device be bad till I can drop the tank. thank goodness, that was good.
So the job of going into the dash that I had put off for years now, had to be done.
I had done some work in the past when I added some LED indicators in the lower left position, which on my dash was blank.
Those indicators were for some switches to indicate they were on or off.
To get to the guages, all you have to take off is the bezel, the clear plastic dust screen and the light reflector bezel.
Some time in the past, GM switched from guages that had screw terminal to guages that just plugged in. If you had the screw
type terminals, you had to remove the entire guage instrument panel assembly. Luckily, my model has the plug in guages.
Watching the vids, there are scenarios were the guages can be burnt out or the printed ckt could have burnt open, but lets call
this extreme.
Fact that most don't know is, the guages have a resistor on the back in ckt with the sensors that feed them signal.
I am told, that 8 times out of 10, that resistor will go bad. When it does the guage associated with it stops working.
I tested the resistors and every one was burnt out.
And yes these are specific resistors for the guage, and if you can find them will cost about $25 to $35 EACH.
But you can replace them with a 5 watt 90 ohm CERAMIC resistor for about $5 apiece.
Now along this adventure of fixing the guages, my dash lighting was terrible. I thought I recalled that when the truck was newer, the dash lights were brighter, but today, you can hardly see them. Maybe its my eyes, or the incandescent bulbs turning dark from use but the dash is dark.
HUGE TIP, now that you are pulling the guages, you have access to the bulbs to replace with LED bulbs. Put the parking lights on as you put them in as they are polarized, if you plug them in and they don't light, pull them and turn them around.
With all the lights replaced you can plug in the guages and test for operation. All my guages came back, big thumbs up.
Reassembling the panel was fast and that evening I took it for a drive and enjoyed the best bright dash lights, that ARE Dimmable to the headlight control switch. WELL WORTH THE UPGRADE.
I just got finish reinstalling, my dash cluster cluster with new lights and wires, I noticed that now my lights are flickering, I'm guessing that it might be a ground do you know what it could be?
Hi Brothers, as you said these are 47 onwards do they come in 6volt versions? Thanks.
Man, Great question... we'll have to check on that.
Are these bulbs compatible with the ones in my 86 Silverado
Yes 100%
Are the polarity free? LED are usually polarity specific so trying to figure out which is positive and negative on that circuit shit behind the gauges would be super frustrating
AgentSmith these bulbs are polarity specific. They won’t work if they’re installed in reverse. I upgraded mine a while ago and the difference is like “night and day”. You can get different colors too. I have a red and black interior and I have gone with red bulbs before. They look cool but not as bright as the clear, or white ones. You’ll definitely like them. The bulbs have a positive and negative marking on them so you can tell how they go in. Look at your circuit board and you’ll see which side supplies the ground. The four bulb sockets for the dash illumination have one ribbon supplied for the ground side of each socket as well as the b+ on the other ribbon. I think pin #1 is the ground side, but don’t take my word for it. I’m sitting here at 5am having coffee and can’t recall fully. It’s easy though, if you can follow the board schematic. I installed all new bulbs for the turn signals and high beam indicator too. It’s a pain to plug in the cluster with the oil gauge and speedometer hooked up though, as you know. I fabricated a sub harness that allows for more length of the main plug. I cut in and spliced in 2 separate 6 pin flat connectors that are about 8 inches long so I don’t need to unplug the main harness every time I need access. The circuit board can be damaged where the plug goes if you’re not careful and need to remove it many times like I did when rebuilding my dash. I also lengthen my oil supply line to the gauge for ease of removing the compression fitting. Hey, I’ve got an idea! Brothers, and Dave, why not make a factory style sub harness for the dash plug that allows the original plug to attach with a new male/female connector at each end? Of course I would want a cut of the proceeds from whoever comes up with the prototype and puts it into the market! After all, I was the first to come up with the invention that I know of. Everyone has heard it first here! Good luck guys!
@@MicheluceRizzuto Thank you for the detailed reply, and thank you for watching!
Like Michael said, they are polarity sensitive, but it's really not that much trouble to get them right even with the dash in place.
Are they real hard to change, where do you get the bulbs
Simple to change, here's a link to the bulbs: bit.ly/2WvvByz
Thank u
I have a 69 C20 will these work for that?
Absolutely!
Sooooo what is the part number??
Direct Product Link is in the video description, but here's a shortcut: bit.ly/2WvvByz
What are the name brand of the LED lights that you have how can I order them
You can order them at www.brotherstrucks.com
Dave Will they work in my 1955.1 first series ? I see there awesome in the 67-72 cluster. Another great video. Keep them coming ! 🇺🇸
We don't have a kit for the '55, but there are LED's out there that will work. You'll probably have to try a few styles to find out what works best!
The LED bulbs are better original gives dash & gauges more bright light.
Absolutely right!