I was keen to do some comparisons with some of the Aliexpress stuff, but I'm about $200 out of pocket for various things, that never turned up and I could never get a refund for, so I gave up. After I looked up the specific issues I had it also seems fairly common.
I actually found it super easy to remove the chamber (10 min). You must have had a tight one. I was allowing a few hours for this one but was pleasantly surprised.
Yep was just a matter of apply the force in the right place I think. It was much easier getting that rod that it hangs off back into place, I was just nervous of damaging anything at first. Would be a much quicker job doing it again. Moving the camera around also slows things down, which probably leaves me feeling it took longer too.
I think you made it sound better. We disassembled our stock 2020 Vitpilen 401 can and removed the baffle, also enlarging the opening before reinstalling. It sounds great now! Curious if that chamber delete would work on my bike? And yes if you did a full install video it would absolutely be most appreciated. Thank you for the good content👏
I've been thinking I should give that a try too! Is the 2020 running the exhaust along the side of the bike, instead of underneath? It's a slightly different setup if that's the case, but there should be some chamber delete options for that design too. Apparently you can even retro-fit the older exhaust setup on the newer bikes. How difficult did you find modifying the stock can?
@@MotoJournoKris The exhaust runs underneath my bike, but yeah I really like and wish it was side mounted instead. If possible that’s a conversion I’d like to do along with the chamber delete you showed us. As far as the de-baffle modification it went fairly easy. Of course remove the can off the bike then carefully drill out the rivets as not to scratch it (take note of the little washers that are incorporated with the rivets, and don’t worry about trying to save them you will have to get some new washers to replace them. I use steel washers with my new rivets when reinstalling) Then work the exhaust tip off because it’s also adhesive together with most probably some sort of height temp silicone. Once the exhaust tip is removed from the main body of the can you’ll see the baffle which is attached to it, not the body of the can. Then remove baffle. I had limited tools so this part I’m sure you’ll figure out the best way of removal that works for you. Note: the exhaust tip hole is kind of small and I just used the removal of the baffle as an excuse to enlarge the opening at the same time. You’ll see what I mean once you have the exhaust tip apart from the main body of the can. Plus I think enlarging the exhaust hole looks better too. In my opinion. That part you can decide to enlarge or not. When putting it back together you’ll need to get some high temp black/dark gray silicone (I used gasket sealer) you’ll also need rivets of the same size you removed when taking it apart and a riveting tool (don’t forget about the washers) If you do do it you’ll most definitely notice a sound difference.. and for the better too! And thank you for the content you post, it’s always much appreciated.
@@dukie1616 Going to have to give that a try! I saw a muffler for the earlier versions with the side mounted mid-pipe and was really tempted to buy it, and do the conversion, as apparently its quite easy. Only thing is you have to do the whole system, as the newer muffler won't connect to the older mid-pipe. But I'd have to rebuy the older version of the chamber delete to do that, as well as get the older header/mid-pipe. A few people on the 401 forums/groups have done it without issue.
It shouldn't and the cats are all retained, which is normally a point of contention around street legality that are most likely to be picked up on. Worth checking with your insurer about accessories though, like aftermarket exhausts. LAMS requirements in NSW for instance say no modifications at all, however I've only heard of people getting in trouble for riding unrestricted bikes, too loud exhausts (normally ridiculously so) or stuff like bald tyres. I normally put any aftermarket exhaust stuff in the 'risk I'm willing to take' category as far as the police, and just apply some common sense, which as times has meant taking a too loud exhaust off and going back to stock. Insurance I've never had an issue.
What is better for the engine/performance, to do this chamber delete, or just buy a collector without the front cat, and keep the entire chamber setup?
Would really need to test that on the dyno. I can't see many people bothering to replace the header, but not the chamber, for performance a full system would probably be best, with a proper tune. The big advantage of the chamber delete is removing quite a bit of weight and gaining some volume rather than performance though, I'd say.
Does it vent from the conjuction between the silencer and the chamber delete? I ask because i own a copy i bought on Aliexpress and with the stock silencer it vents quite a lot. The weird thing is that it does not happen with the GPR silencer i bought (but i can not use cause i lost the support that holds the silencer to the bracket)
The checks I did had no venting or exhaust leaks. Might just be the backpressure, the GPR would flow a lot more freely in comparison. The gaskets could also be an issue if they were worn, or you could try some exhaust sealant.
Did you get a fuel management system in? I heard good things about Fuelx lite, because it's cheap, smth like 140 usd. probably needs it after this mod. idk.
I doubt the bike really needs it, although there may be some positive benefit. Normally a full exhaust, or slip-on + chamber delete + performance air filter is when I'd consider looking at a tune. Be nice if there was some dyno charts out there demonstrating the improvements but I haven't seen any. I'd probably give one a try, but not for $300 AUD!
You can apparently fit the old exhaust system from the earlier models that ran alongside the engine, instead of under it. So any of the older model full systems that match that should also work I'd imagine.
That seems like a profitable impression to be bouncing around the internet if you're selling fuel management systems, piggy back devices, and reflashing services, and will certainly play on people's fears. And to be fair people who've invested in those systems are likely to spread the story. Not to say there's no benefit but.... I wouldn't bother with a chamber delete or slip-on muffler personally, but that's just based on my own risk assessment. There's two cats greatly reducing exhaust flow in the standard exhaust header that's still run. And I've had numerous bikes where the collector has been removed as part of a slip-on fitment and it's never been an issue over tens of thousands of kilometres, with only a single cat still there, by comparison. Certainly here I think there's minimal noticeable difference in the running of the bike, apart from a bit more volume and depth to the exhaust note. Could a fuel management system and a proper tune help? Definitely, particularly the proper tune done by a professional with a dyno, which is specific to your bike. The generic maps often offered just add or subtract a fairly arbitrary value off the fuel table, which is a very generalised approach, but can help offset emission related fueling compromises, or broadly cover changes made to the bike. The new autotune tech is interesting, but I've seen that cause problems in the past. The more extreme the changes you make, the more you're messing up the standard tune, which taken far enough, will have an impact. You've just got to decide on the risk you're willing to take.
@@MotoJournoKris I think even with stock mechanicals most bikes could use a dyno tune or an autotuner like Rapid Bike. Especially for KTM's Rapid Bike is like a godsend due to the choppy fueling below 5k rpm. You probably wouldn't gain much in the topend but in the 2-4k rpms its like night and day even if the bike is otherwise stock. I really don't know of any other piggyback solutions that can do what rapidbike can do as usually the closed loop area cannot be altered using piggybacks and need a remap.
@@nnlniclb Most bikes are tuned for emissions unfortunately, so there's definitely room for improvement in basically every other way. A few people have said the FuelX will do the same thing, I'd probably be more inclined to give them a try with a bike I thought I'd still have in three or five years, or if I had more money to throw around, lol!
I did the same. I spent 30 AUD for that part on Aliexpress and it's perfect mate.
I was keen to do some comparisons with some of the Aliexpress stuff, but I'm about $200 out of pocket for various things, that never turned up and I could never get a refund for, so I gave up. After I looked up the specific issues I had it also seems fairly common.
@danimac2028 any chance you can drop the link to the Aliexpress part?
That bike was a good choice.
I actually found it super easy to remove the chamber (10 min). You must have had a tight one. I was allowing a few hours for this one but was pleasantly surprised.
Yep was just a matter of apply the force in the right place I think. It was much easier getting that rod that it hangs off back into place, I was just nervous of damaging anything at first. Would be a much quicker job doing it again. Moving the camera around also slows things down, which probably leaves me feeling it took longer too.
Hey mate, where did you get the Oggy knobbs from? I’m in Aus too but can’t seem to find them.
I think you made it sound better. We disassembled our stock 2020 Vitpilen 401 can and removed the baffle, also enlarging the opening before reinstalling. It sounds great now! Curious if that chamber delete would work on my bike? And yes if you did a full install video it would absolutely be most appreciated. Thank you for the good content👏
I've been thinking I should give that a try too! Is the 2020 running the exhaust along the side of the bike, instead of underneath? It's a slightly different setup if that's the case, but there should be some chamber delete options for that design too. Apparently you can even retro-fit the older exhaust setup on the newer bikes.
How difficult did you find modifying the stock can?
Install video is uploading now, will publish in a day or two!
@@MotoJournoKris The exhaust runs underneath my bike, but yeah I really like and wish it was side mounted instead. If possible that’s a conversion I’d like to do along with the chamber delete you showed us. As far as the de-baffle modification it went fairly easy. Of course remove the can off the bike then carefully drill out the rivets as not to scratch it (take note of the little washers that are incorporated with the rivets, and don’t worry about trying to save them you will have to get some new washers to replace them. I use steel washers with my new rivets when reinstalling) Then work the exhaust tip off because it’s also adhesive together with most probably some sort of height temp silicone. Once the exhaust tip is removed from the main body of the can you’ll see the baffle which is attached to it, not the body of the can. Then remove baffle. I had limited tools so this part I’m sure you’ll figure out the best way of removal that works for you. Note: the exhaust tip hole is kind of small and I just used the removal of the baffle as an excuse to enlarge the opening at the same time. You’ll see what I mean once you have the exhaust tip apart from the main body of the can. Plus I think enlarging the exhaust hole looks better too. In my opinion. That part you can decide to enlarge or not. When putting it back together you’ll need to get some high temp black/dark gray silicone (I used gasket sealer) you’ll also need rivets of the same size you removed when taking it apart and a riveting tool (don’t forget about the washers) If you do do it you’ll most definitely notice a sound difference.. and for the better too! And thank you for the content you post, it’s always much appreciated.
@@dukie1616 Going to have to give that a try!
I saw a muffler for the earlier versions with the side mounted mid-pipe and was really tempted to buy it, and do the conversion, as apparently its quite easy. Only thing is you have to do the whole system, as the newer muffler won't connect to the older mid-pipe. But I'd have to rebuy the older version of the chamber delete to do that, as well as get the older header/mid-pipe. A few people on the 401 forums/groups have done it without issue.
@@MotoJournoKris I think it’s totally worth doing, and if you do I hope you make a video of it too. Just saying, lol
Also, thanks for the detailed vid 👍
Thanks for watching!
Since the main point seems to be less weight, exactly how much weight was saved? Then I can judge if it's worth the time and money.
Good question, I should have weighed them both up for the video! It's meant to be a 2.5 kg weight saving.
Thanks for the video, does having the chamber delete cause any issues with insurance/street legality?
It shouldn't and the cats are all retained, which is normally a point of contention around street legality that are most likely to be picked up on. Worth checking with your insurer about accessories though, like aftermarket exhausts.
LAMS requirements in NSW for instance say no modifications at all, however I've only heard of people getting in trouble for riding unrestricted bikes, too loud exhausts (normally ridiculously so) or stuff like bald tyres. I normally put any aftermarket exhaust stuff in the 'risk I'm willing to take' category as far as the police, and just apply some common sense, which as times has meant taking a too loud exhaust off and going back to stock. Insurance I've never had an issue.
@@MotoJournoKris very helpful reply, thanks for taking the time :)
What is better for the engine/performance, to do this chamber delete, or just buy a collector without the front cat, and keep the entire chamber setup?
Would really need to test that on the dyno. I can't see many people bothering to replace the header, but not the chamber, for performance a full system would probably be best, with a proper tune. The big advantage of the chamber delete is removing quite a bit of weight and gaining some volume rather than performance though, I'd say.
Does it vent from the conjuction between the silencer and the chamber delete? I ask because i own a copy i bought on Aliexpress and with the stock silencer it vents quite a lot. The weird thing is that it does not happen with the GPR silencer i bought (but i can not use cause i lost the support that holds the silencer to the bracket)
The checks I did had no venting or exhaust leaks. Might just be the backpressure, the GPR would flow a lot more freely in comparison. The gaskets could also be an issue if they were worn, or you could try some exhaust sealant.
Thanks for Kris! Any chance you can post the name/link of the crash bobbins again? Couldn't quite make it out in the video. Thanks much
Yep, sorry should have said, those are Oggy Knobbs, the KTM Duke 390 2017-onwards versions will fit the Svartpilen 401, part number was OK352.
is it possible to use a punch on the support bar before taking out the chamber?
I think that's the trick. Knock it out of position so it's no longer locked in place and so the chamber moves more freely. It's pretty tight overall.
Did you get a fuel management system in? I heard good things about Fuelx lite, because it's cheap, smth like 140 usd. probably needs it after this mod. idk.
I doubt the bike really needs it, although there may be some positive benefit. Normally a full exhaust, or slip-on + chamber delete + performance air filter is when I'd consider looking at a tune. Be nice if there was some dyno charts out there demonstrating the improvements but I haven't seen any.
I'd probably give one a try, but not for $300 AUD!
What were the weight saving in grammes and what mirrors are you running.
I just got the 68$ ebay special link pipe (cat delete pipe) it'll be here in a week wish me luck lol!
Good luck and let us know how you go!!
How'd that go mate?
you put that jawn in yet? im thinking about getting the same special
What about a relocation pipe to give you more clearance anyone make one of those ?
Projekt Racing
You can apparently fit the old exhaust system from the earlier models that ran alongside the engine, instead of under it. So any of the older model full systems that match that should also work I'd imagine.
I got the impression that doing a chamber delete without adding a fuel management system will damage your engine.
That seems like a profitable impression to be bouncing around the internet if you're selling fuel management systems, piggy back devices, and reflashing services, and will certainly play on people's fears. And to be fair people who've invested in those systems are likely to spread the story. Not to say there's no benefit but....
I wouldn't bother with a chamber delete or slip-on muffler personally, but that's just based on my own risk assessment. There's two cats greatly reducing exhaust flow in the standard exhaust header that's still run. And I've had numerous bikes where the collector has been removed as part of a slip-on fitment and it's never been an issue over tens of thousands of kilometres, with only a single cat still there, by comparison. Certainly here I think there's minimal noticeable difference in the running of the bike, apart from a bit more volume and depth to the exhaust note.
Could a fuel management system and a proper tune help? Definitely, particularly the proper tune done by a professional with a dyno, which is specific to your bike. The generic maps often offered just add or subtract a fairly arbitrary value off the fuel table, which is a very generalised approach, but can help offset emission related fueling compromises, or broadly cover changes made to the bike.
The new autotune tech is interesting, but I've seen that cause problems in the past.
The more extreme the changes you make, the more you're messing up the standard tune, which taken far enough, will have an impact. You've just got to decide on the risk you're willing to take.
@@MotoJournoKris I think even with stock mechanicals most bikes could use a dyno tune or an autotuner like Rapid Bike. Especially for KTM's Rapid Bike is like a godsend due to the choppy fueling below 5k rpm. You probably wouldn't gain much in the topend but in the 2-4k rpms its like night and day even if the bike is otherwise stock. I really don't know of any other piggyback solutions that can do what rapidbike can do as usually the closed loop area cannot be altered using piggybacks and need a remap.
@@nnlniclb Most bikes are tuned for emissions unfortunately, so there's definitely room for improvement in basically every other way. A few people have said the FuelX will do the same thing, I'd probably be more inclined to give them a try with a bike I thought I'd still have in three or five years, or if I had more money to throw around, lol!