My old 2.5-16 had a problem where it got hit in traffic. Swapped out my red aux fan to a “tropical climate” one. I believe it was black and made the fan cut in earlier to help pull temp down before it got too hot. Fixed the overheating in traffic problems. Cheers n keep up the gd work
@@marcinoniszczuk8744 no. It’s based on colours Just ask the dealer and they can look up at what temp it kicks in. I think it was green or black. Opens a lot earlier
Yes, these 'tropic climate' switch are black color, trigger fan at 85C, cut off at 80C. Most W124 in Malaysia has replace the red switch to the black one. They need to pair with low temperature thermostat, else your radiator fan will keep on running forever. Low temperature thermostat start to open at 71C.
“Cool” mod. It’s nice to have it visualised on a video. Thinking of doing it in mine. I have yet to solve the “issue” with the fan clutch (it’s fixed to engine speed, and rotates with it -no “viscous” function). Proper brands (Febi, Meyle, Sachs, etc) are not easy to come by and cost 3x more than in Europe. According to a brief service booklet I got, the part n° is the same for M103 and M104 (103 200 06 22). Others I found are -04 02 or -03 02 in EPC. Operation is set to 88-96°C, but will of course make the engine run warmer. With actual fan clutch subject directly to engine speed (fixed), T° sits at 80-85°C and no more than 100°C on heavy traffic and hotter days. I’ll take note on the last thing you mentioned in the vid.
Good... I choose 1.1K ohm for 92'C but i want to change with 1.2K ohm for 94' or 96'C i'm forget sorry. All i know from you in youtube channel sir and I one of your subscriber. Thanks a lot for sharing your experiences
Thank you Maestro, you have all of the fancy tools. I wonder if this can be done on those csrs with the 3 prong tem sender, the one that has both a 2 wire connecter and a single wire one as well. Either way good video.
Interesting, , I have just got my M104 powered 1990 SL back on the road, BUT after a few weeks i noticed the fans were running, temp gauge indicates 80degs, first i will change that blue sensor, but if push comes to shove it may be a pump change and i will not be looking forward to doing that particular task. Car has done 135k. best regards Cheshire UK and sometimes Sisaket Thailand.
Think I need to check the wiring and sensor on my car. On hot summer days the fans will come on immediately with the ignition, then start running intermittently as the engine warms up.
Hello, this is a very interesting and informative video. Please allow me to ask two questions, as my knowledge of physics is unfortunately limited: if I have understood correctly, the resistor "tricks" the thermal switch or the control unit into thinking that the original switching point of 107 (?) degrees Celsius has already been reached and thus switches on the auxiliary fans, which would then be switched on at level 2. Is this correct as far as it goes? I found a few videos on RUclips in which users do this, but they all use different resistors. One uses a 1 K Ohm resistor, another uses a 1.5 K Ohm resistor and you have chosen a 1.8 K Ohm resistor. How do you calculate the influence quantity? Is there a formula here? Is it correct to assume that, for example, the 1 K ohm resistor switches on at 92 degrees, the 1.5 K ohm resistor at 95 degrees and the 1.8 K ohm resistor at 98 degrees Celsius? (The temperature values are only invented examples!) ? If I have understood this correctly and stage 2 is then switched at the "107 degrees", is there a possibility of only switching stage 1 or is this only possible by tapping into the pressure switch of the air conditioning system? The second question is as follows: in the German edition of the WIS it is written that at least at LH (I don't know if also at KE and ME) when reaching 107 degrees Celsius and thus switching on the two electric fans, the performance of the air conditioning is throttled in order to minimise the thermal load a little. So, if my understanding is correct and a resistor commands the control unit to reach 107 degrees Celsius and thus "switch", would the air conditioning then also be throttled? And if so, did you notice this in your test or is it negligible? Thanks in advance for your answer and greetings from Germany, home of your cars. :-) Greetings, Heiko
in regards to resistor choice, its not so complicated. It is basically trial and error till I found the value i liked. 1.8 wasnt the first selected on my blue black car, it was some other value (i can’t remember which) and i wasn’t happy with the switching points so changed it out. No 2 of of these blue temperature sensors are made identical, 1.8k ohms on both my cars still has the fan come on at a slightly different temperature. With the AC being disabled from memory that happens originally at around 120c, so it probably will still happen but obviously at a lower temp, perhaps around 110c. I’ve not had this happen ever, the hottest actual temp i’ve seen on my blue black car is a consistent 105-107 on a very hot day driving up through hillls.
Hello and thanks for the video. I have the 1987 300d w124 turbo My temp switch looks like yours bur has a 3rd pin infront of the 2 Will this work on my car if so what resistor do I use. My car has the single fan that operates at 100c and 110c I would like to bring the temp down to max 95c The temp here in idaho is often 95f to 106f I have new temp switch ordered as well as electric fan and fan clutch and thermostat. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated and helpful. Again thank you for your time and videos. They have been most helpful. Robert
my W124 230E aux fan stopped working years ago.. the fan only works if I use a wire jumper on the main coolant switch. so if not observant - the engine will overheat which already happened once and now I am losing about 5mm engine oil after average long distance driving. Still have not found the leak but most likely the head has warped from the overheat.
m102 setup is a bit different. From memory even the clutch fan is switched on and off by a temperature switch. Over heating the engine is never good, even in the case of control failure of the fan running a manual switch to the inside of the car is better than nothing to activate the fans. Oil consumption after an over heat event is very concerning indeed. If it gets too bad it may be worthwhile finding another engine.
I have a W124 e200. My heat switch constantly gives me issues nomatter how many times I replace it. I currently have it bridged so the fan clutch is permanently on. But this makes it very heavy on fuel. I want to replace the heat switch with a manual toggle switch that I can control. However, I dont know if this would work as straight forward as it sounds or if i am missing something. Any advice?
e200 im not familiar with, but is this an electric clutch fan on the front of the engine like the m102 has? Or its the fans on front of the radiator/ condenser? In any case, if you are having troubles with the factory control of the fan, you can always bypass it totally and install an aftermarket fan controller on which you can program any temperatures you like for it to operate. I would make sure the airconditioner can still turn it on as requested too.
There's one thing I don't get: Is the resistor mod altering also temperature point of aux fan going off? I mean, I have 1.5k now and it starts at around 100 celsius, ends around the perfect engine temp (the road temp). I want to get there 1.2k, does it mean the fan would stop BELOW the temp is it going off now at 1.5k?
(by the way, I did the mod without any soldering, just put the thin resistor wires between inserted into two holes of the female plug.. and plugged directly to the sensor - tight fit, it's so easy)
Yes, the resistor mod alters the on and off temperatures of the fan. Note that that no 2 cars are the same and the same value resistor doesn’t give same results on both cars. I know this from my 2. The blue sensors are also slightly different too. There are aftermarket fan controllers available to get the on and off temperatures dialed in exactly as you like, This mod will never give such flexibility.
Question is - the car has 2 temperature sensors one 2 pin (this one you're doing mod with) and the other one (single pin, only for gauge in the instr cluster). So, doing this mod for the 2-pin thermosensor, you're providig wrong information to the ECU - for example about air/fuel mixture... ?
Nope, ECU and EZL uses the black 4 pin temp sensor. This modification has no effect what so ever on the running characteristics of the engine. Blue sensor is specifically for the hvac unit. There is a safety feature where the compressor is cut out on over heating events - it may bring this on sooner than specification after the modification but i've never had this happen.
@@MMWA-DAVE okay. many thanks! I'm fighting with "no aux fan on. ever" in my car, been through relays, etc. found out when I unclip this 2-pin connector, aux fan runs for a second and shorts 16A fuse is "D" location (so, the aux fan fuse). Do you have any thoughts what might be the problem? Aux fan runs smoothly when connected directly to the 12V...
@@dustblowboro on unmodified cars unplugging the sensor should run the fan full time. It sounds to me like the wiring between the fan motors and the relay has melted or become damaged. This is not unusual on cars with worn out and stiff go turn fan motors. You may need to take the car to auto electrician to pin point the issue if you cant find it. You might even have damaged wiring under the fuse box to the relay too.
@@MMWA-DAVE I think I'd need to heck it... That's a great tip about the sensor. Thanks so much. My wiring was done new (original was biodegradable) by previous owner. If I couldn't help with the issue I'll put a switch for the fan somewhere...
I cant say as i’ve never seen one. If it has the same climate control panel with manual fan speed knob and airflow controls and electric fans on the AC condenser it may well have the blue sensor.
@@Benzina124 I don’t know if this modification is for you then. If the red sensor is an actual NTC resistor like the blue one if might work. If its a simple on/off switch then this wont do anything.
I miss my w124 300ce, 3.2. But I am glad I sold it. I now have a w221 v12, lovely.
My old 2.5-16 had a problem where it got hit in traffic. Swapped out my red aux fan to a “tropical climate” one. I believe it was black and made the fan cut in earlier to help pull temp down before it got too hot. Fixed the overheating in traffic problems. Cheers n keep up the gd work
@@marcinoniszczuk8744 no. It’s based on colours Just ask the dealer and they can look up at what temp it kicks in. I think it was green or black. Opens a lot earlier
Yes, these 'tropic climate' switch are black color, trigger fan at 85C, cut off at 80C. Most W124 in Malaysia has replace the red switch to the black one. They need to pair with low temperature thermostat, else your radiator fan will keep on running forever. Low temperature thermostat start to open at 71C.
“Cool” mod. It’s nice to have it visualised on a video. Thinking of doing it in mine.
I have yet to solve the “issue” with the fan clutch (it’s fixed to engine speed, and rotates with it -no “viscous” function). Proper brands (Febi, Meyle, Sachs, etc) are not easy to come by and cost 3x more than in Europe.
According to a brief service booklet I got, the part n° is the same for M103 and M104 (103 200 06 22). Others I found are -04 02 or -03 02 in EPC. Operation is set to 88-96°C, but will of course make the engine run warmer.
With actual fan clutch subject directly to engine speed (fixed), T° sits at 80-85°C and no more than 100°C on heavy traffic and hotter days.
I’ll take note on the last thing you mentioned in the vid.
Good... I choose 1.1K ohm for 92'C but i want to change with 1.2K ohm for 94' or 96'C i'm forget sorry. All i know from you in youtube channel sir and I one of your subscriber. Thanks a lot for sharing your experiences
You are a hero. Tahnk you.
Thank you Maestro, you have all of the fancy tools. I wonder if this can be done on those csrs with the 3 prong tem sender, the one that has both a 2 wire connecter and a single wire one as well. Either way good video.
Good info.👍
Interesting, , I have just got my M104 powered 1990 SL back on the road, BUT after a few weeks i noticed the fans were running, temp gauge indicates 80degs, first i will change that blue sensor, but if push comes to shove it may be a pump change and i will not be looking forward to doing that particular task. Car has done 135k. best regards Cheshire UK and sometimes Sisaket Thailand.
great advice very helpful . Thank you excelent 124 300ce .🙏🏻👏🏻👍🏻
Thank you for all your excellent technical wvideos ,all so informative .
I am using a 1.2K resister. In my w126.
Mak
Pakistn
Think I need to check the wiring and sensor on my car. On hot summer days the fans will come on immediately with the ignition, then start running intermittently as the engine warms up.
Thank you for the video.
I'm thinking I can do this mod on my ' 97 R129 , since the sensor is two prong .
Hello, this is a very interesting and informative video. Please allow me to ask two questions, as my knowledge of physics is unfortunately limited: if I have understood correctly, the resistor "tricks" the thermal switch or the control unit into thinking that the original switching point of 107 (?) degrees Celsius has already been reached and thus switches on the auxiliary fans, which would then be switched on at level 2. Is this correct as far as it goes? I found a few videos on RUclips in which users do this, but they all use different resistors. One uses a 1 K Ohm resistor, another uses a 1.5 K Ohm resistor and you have chosen a 1.8 K Ohm resistor. How do you calculate the influence quantity? Is there a formula here? Is it correct to assume that, for example, the 1 K ohm resistor switches on at 92 degrees, the 1.5 K ohm resistor at 95 degrees and the 1.8 K ohm resistor at 98 degrees Celsius? (The temperature values are only invented examples!) ? If I have understood this correctly and stage 2 is then switched at the "107 degrees", is there a possibility of only switching stage 1 or is this only possible by tapping into the pressure switch of the air conditioning system?
The second question is as follows: in the German edition of the WIS it is written that at least at LH (I don't know if also at KE and ME) when reaching 107 degrees Celsius and thus switching on the two electric fans, the performance of the air conditioning is throttled in order to minimise the thermal load a little. So, if my understanding is correct and a resistor commands the control unit to reach 107 degrees Celsius and thus "switch", would the air conditioning then also be throttled? And if so, did you notice this in your test or is it negligible?
Thanks in advance for your answer and greetings from Germany, home of your cars.
:-)
Greetings, Heiko
in regards to resistor choice, its not so complicated. It is basically trial and error till I found the value i liked. 1.8 wasnt the first selected on my blue black car, it was some other value (i can’t remember which) and i wasn’t happy with the switching points so changed it out. No 2 of of these blue temperature sensors are made identical, 1.8k ohms on both my cars still has the fan come on at a slightly different temperature.
With the AC being disabled from memory that happens originally at around 120c, so it probably will still happen but obviously at a lower temp, perhaps around 110c. I’ve not had this happen ever, the hottest actual temp i’ve seen on my blue black car is a consistent 105-107 on a very hot day driving up through hillls.
Awesome video!
Hello and thanks for the video. I have the 1987 300d w124 turbo
My temp switch looks like yours bur has a 3rd pin infront of the 2
Will this work on my car if so what resistor do I use. My car has the single fan that operates at 100c and 110c I would like to bring the temp down to max 95c
The temp here in idaho is often 95f to 106f
I have new temp switch ordered as well as electric fan and fan clutch and thermostat. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated and helpful.
Again thank you for your time and videos. They have been most helpful.
Robert
my W124 230E aux fan stopped working years ago.. the fan only works if I use a wire jumper on the main coolant switch. so if not observant - the engine will overheat which already happened once and now I am losing about 5mm engine oil after average long distance driving. Still have not found the leak but most likely the head has warped from the overheat.
m102 setup is a bit different. From memory even the clutch fan is switched on and off by a temperature switch. Over heating the engine is never good, even in the case of control failure of the fan running a manual switch to the inside of the car is better than nothing to activate the fans. Oil consumption after an over heat event is very concerning indeed. If it gets too bad it may be worthwhile finding another engine.
I have a W124 e200. My heat switch constantly gives me issues nomatter how many times I replace it. I currently have it bridged so the fan clutch is permanently on. But this makes it very heavy on fuel. I want to replace the heat switch with a manual toggle switch that I can control. However, I dont know if this would work as straight forward as it sounds or if i am missing something. Any advice?
e200 im not familiar with, but is this an electric clutch fan on the front of the engine like the m102 has? Or its the fans on front of the radiator/ condenser?
In any case, if you are having troubles with the factory control of the fan, you can always bypass it totally and install an aftermarket fan controller on which you can program any temperatures you like for it to operate. I would make sure the airconditioner can still turn it on as requested too.
There's one thing I don't get: Is the resistor mod altering also temperature point of aux fan going off? I mean, I have 1.5k now and it starts at around 100 celsius, ends around the perfect engine temp (the road temp). I want to get there 1.2k, does it mean the fan would stop BELOW the temp is it going off now at 1.5k?
(by the way, I did the mod without any soldering, just put the thin resistor wires between inserted into two holes of the female plug.. and plugged directly to the sensor - tight fit, it's so easy)
Yes, the resistor mod alters the on and off temperatures of the fan. Note that that no 2 cars are the same and the same value resistor doesn’t give same results on both cars. I know this from my 2. The blue sensors are also slightly different too. There are aftermarket fan controllers available to get the on and off temperatures dialed in exactly as you like, This mod will never give such flexibility.
@@MMWA-DAVE that’s what Ive thought. So, where’s the „stock” information about aux fan on/off stored in? ECU?
@@gregboro1244 on my cars is the climate control panel that monitors the blue sensor and switches on fan relay.
Thanks..
Great video!
I have a 124 300e 92 2.6l
And has blue sensor...
Where, would I buy the 1.8k resistor?
Appreciate your help!!
👍🙏
theyre cheap as chips, you buy bags of assorted resistors for dirt cheap on ebay, or buy a sheet of them from local electronics store.
Question is - the car has 2 temperature sensors one 2 pin (this one you're doing mod with) and the other one (single pin, only for gauge in the instr cluster). So, doing this mod for the 2-pin thermosensor, you're providig wrong information to the ECU - for example about air/fuel mixture... ?
Nope, ECU and EZL uses the black 4 pin temp sensor. This modification has no effect what so ever on the running characteristics of the engine. Blue sensor is specifically for the hvac unit. There is a safety feature where the compressor is cut out on over heating events - it may bring this on sooner than specification after the modification but i've never had this happen.
@@MMWA-DAVE okay. many thanks! I'm fighting with "no aux fan on. ever" in my car, been through relays, etc. found out when I unclip this 2-pin connector, aux fan runs for a second and shorts 16A fuse is "D" location (so, the aux fan fuse). Do you have any thoughts what might be the problem? Aux fan runs smoothly when connected directly to the 12V...
@@dustblowboro on unmodified cars unplugging the sensor should run the fan full time. It sounds to me like the wiring between the fan motors and the relay has melted or become damaged. This is not unusual on cars with worn out and stiff go turn fan motors. You may need to take the car to auto electrician to pin point the issue if you cant find it. You might even have damaged wiring under the fuse box to the relay too.
@@MMWA-DAVE I think I'd need to heck it... That's a great tip about the sensor. Thanks so much. My wiring was done new (original was biodegradable) by previous owner. If I couldn't help with the issue I'll put a switch for the fan somewhere...
My car doesn't have the two pin what do I do. Please help its a 1995 e320
Videolarınıza TÜRKÇE alt yazı ekleme imkanınız yokmu?
W140 can be modded the same way. I did it to mine.
Does it work on a OM601?
I cant say as i’ve never seen one. If it has the same climate control panel with manual fan speed knob and airflow controls and electric fans on the AC condenser it may well have the blue sensor.
@@MMWA-DAVE my fan it's magnetic not electric. But i have that blue sensor. In my case its red
@@Benzina124 I don’t know if this modification is for you then. If the red sensor is an actual NTC resistor like the blue one if might work. If its a simple on/off switch then this wont do anything.
Можете медленно разговаривать, не успеваю перевод прочитать,постарайтесь....
ruclips.net/video/aXpPUKfClLI/видео.html Не одни мы такие умные 😄
What wattage should be used? 1/4, 1/2, 1?
its only a signal line, 1/4 is fine.