The rubber part of the switch isn't mainly for alignement, its the part of the switch that covers the optical laser in the pcb when the key is pressed.
Did this to my K3 but also lubed the stems of the switches, and made a foam insulator to go on the backing plate. Ridiculous how much of a difference it makes! Wish there was a way to get the space bar slightly quieter on returns but otherwise I'd say it's about perfect.
@@iamsheep well they sound a bit less clicky, overlube them and they dont make much sound at all Some might prefer that reduction in sound but if you don’t like the clickiness then you should just not get clicky switches from the get go
It is extremely important to note that this method is relevant for the most part specifically for linear switches. Tactile and clicky switches have a small spring that creates that same tactile response. When disassembled, it falls out, which is why the tactile switch turns into a linear switch. It can, of course, be installed, but this is not so easy to do because of its small size. so if you lubricate your tactile or clicky switches, think carefully about whether you need it
Is there lubricant applied by the original factory during the manufacturing process (for springs and keycaps)? Excluding large keys like the space bar.
As I see you removed an optical low profile switch using the Gateron puller. Keychron declared that the Gateron puller is not compatible with any low profile switch. So how the Gateron puller works? Because I can understand that it must snap the switch and this happens when the switch pushes the button inside the puller. But to do it the switch must be of a specific height which the low progile switch is apparently not. Can you help me to understand, please?
Yo! What about this? Could I possibly change the stabilizers so it fits other keycaps on the spacebar, shift, caps lock, backspace switches? Let me know what you think
Love this idea! Then I could use new keycaps that aren’t compatible with K3 (only because of the stabs). I would hate to trade Keychron optical Mints for Gateron mushy Browns…
Since the stabilizers cant have normal key caps, can i change the stablizers and have normal key caps installed? Im planning to buy a k3, but if i can't install normal key caps would not.
Brown optical low-profile switches have additional super-little spring. I disassembled one and don't understand how it works and how I can assemble switch back.
I assembled one brown switch and it took too much time. I think brown switch is more complicated to assemble than linear (red, white, black), because it has tactile spring. Need some special tool for do it with lot of switches. Also all pieces are flimsy and you need some extra switches if you want tu lube they.
Thank you for this video. I think you are the first one to lube low profile switches and share the results. Also, do you think that adding films to these switches makes any sense?
As long as you don't get lube on the stem legs, it won't remove any tactility from the switch. There's no problem in lubing browns/tactiles you just want to avoid getting lube on the stem legs in order to keep the tactility.
Hey! Thanks for making this guide. I have a bit of a peculiar question. Do you know if it's possible to mod the Keychron K2 in such a way that I would insert the stabilizers of the K3 into the plate of the K2, so that I could then use all the low-profile keycaps of the K3 on the K2?
I don't think that's possible considering the K3 stabs are shorter in height. Your K2 would end up having long keys that float with no stabilizer support.
Hey, just got a Keychron C1 with mechanical switches hotswap. Is the process for removing, lubing, and reassembling the stabilizers gonna be the same for me? First time trying any of this!
I wouldn't even bother with it because the stab location is already hard cut into the metal. I'd rather just get a NuPhy Air75, which actually fits regular keycaps.
Are you sure about the rubber part ? It seems to me that it’s that rubber tip that triggers the optical sensor on the PCB and letting the keyboard know that you pressed that key. But I might be wrong, I’m still waiting on my keyboard.
It is generally not recommended to lube clicky switches but if you want to you can try lubing the springs to minimize pinging noise. Stabilizers on the other hand will *definitely* have to be lubed. You’ll notice it makes the biggest difference.
Spray lubing does work, but it can get messy, and, in my opinion, it's not as good. Brush lubing is highly recommended and the majority of people prefer and use this method rather than the spray lubing method. Brush lubing takes much longer but it is worth it in the end.
One amazing thing you can do to it is to put o rings. I tried them in the past on a corsair k70 without much effect because the rebound sound was too loud, but since this is a low profile keyboard, the keycaps are actually light and don't make much sound on rebound. So the o rings are extremely effective. I wonder how lubed + o ring would sound like, I think i'll try because i think the keys could feel a bit smoother than they do rn
hello bro, what about keychron blue optical switch ? should use krytox 205 too or 105 ? and its okay if we lubing all blue switch area like what you did in your video ? because i heard if lubing linear switch and clicky switch is different and this is new switch version. i need your advice about this because im waiting k3 pre order and wanna lube my k3 by myself for the first time, or maybe you wanna make a new video how to lubing clicky optical version haha thanks !
Dont open baanana switches ther is a microscopic spring the prvides the tactile feel and it will move out of place as soon as you open. You will never get it back into position and then it will become a linear switch forever after.
actually i managed to figure it out wiht some tweasers and the zoom on my phones camera. But then I pulled the rubber out and now its no longer functional lol.
Do not attempt this if you have tactile switches. The tactile switches require insain precision to reassembal and after 4 hours and two destroyed switches I gave up and had to order replacements. It basically impossible unless you are Ant man.
I find all of this sooo unnecessary. The difference is pretty much unhearable and you risk so much when it comes to potential issues with hardware. As someone mentioned, those do have optical switches, so if you put your stupid lube in a way of a laser, you are screwed. What I'm trying to say is: don't overdo things when not needed.
![How to EASILY Lube an Optical Mechanical Keyboard - SK61 Mod With Mojito Keycaps [ASMR]](/img/1.gif)
The hand motion you did at 4:59 to assemble the switches and keycaps, was so smooth!!
you can do that with masking
Oh wow, this is an underrated channel, see you all in a year after he has 500k subs and we're all like "here before 10k"
Nuh uh
such a high quality and amazing video! you are very underrated
The rubber part of the switch isn't mainly for alignement, its the part of the switch that covers the optical laser in the pcb when the key is pressed.
Slick editing with the handwave. Very satisfying to watch.
Love the video! Simple but very clear. I might try this once I get the K3 and lube their new Banana switches.
Planning on doing this when I get my K3. Thank you so much!
Did this to my K3 but also lubed the stems of the switches, and made a foam insulator to go on the backing plate. Ridiculous how much of a difference it makes! Wish there was a way to get the space bar slightly quieter on returns but otherwise I'd say it's about perfect.
I really wish you could buy the keychron optical low profile switches pre-lubed.
All non-clicky switches really benefit from being lubed. The sound gets so much better
how do the click switches sound after lubing?
@@iamsheep well they sound a bit less clicky, overlube them and they dont make much sound at all
Some might prefer that reduction in sound but if you don’t like the clickiness then you should just not get clicky switches from the get go
Do you think the opticals sound too soft compared to the regular mechanicals?
is he using the v1 or v2 k3 in this video ?
It is extremely important to note that this method is relevant for the most part specifically for linear switches. Tactile and clicky switches have a small spring that creates that same tactile response. When disassembled, it falls out, which is why the tactile switch turns into a linear switch. It can, of course, be installed, but this is not so easy to do because of its small size. so if you lubricate your tactile or clicky switches, think carefully about whether you need it
in mint and banana switches there is additional spring that needs to be in correct angle for the early bump tactile
ive noticed with low profile, the sound is not as noticeable, but the feel definitely is, just that alone is worth lubing
Is there lubricant applied by the original factory during the manufacturing process (for springs and keycaps)? Excluding large keys like the space bar.
As I see you removed an optical low profile switch using the Gateron puller. Keychron declared that the Gateron puller is not compatible with any low profile switch. So how the Gateron puller works? Because I can understand that it must snap the switch and this happens when the switch pushes the button inside the puller. But to do it the switch must be of a specific height which the low progile switch is apparently not. Can you help me to understand, please?
The difference on the spacebar is crazy. Mine is pretty loud on returns, seems like i have to lube it.
Yo! What about this? Could I possibly change the stabilizers so it fits other keycaps on the spacebar, shift, caps lock, backspace switches? Let me know what you think
Love this idea! Then I could use new keycaps that aren’t compatible with K3 (only because of the stabs). I would hate to trade Keychron optical Mints for Gateron mushy Browns…
how did you lube the capslock and shift stabs? I tried to lube the bar, but they still rattle :(
Any chance I could swap the stabilizers on this to some regular “centered” ones? I wanted to use a K2 keycap set
Don't think there's any low profile stabs that you can buy on the secondary market.
Was waiting for this! Thanks for sharing a guide.
Was wondering if you could share the height of the stabs in the K3 vs. standard stabs?
Keychron Stab: 5mm
Regular Plate Mount Stab: 7.5mm
@@Romsicle Awesome. Thanks for the reply!
Since the stabilizers cant have normal key caps, can i change the stablizers and have normal key caps installed? Im planning to buy a k3, but if i can't install normal key caps would not.
If you can find third-party low profile stabilizers, then it's possible. But I don't think there are any.
I failed at 2:48
is it make huge difference lubing Stabilizers?
Brilliantly useful video!! Bit of a shame they lube it at the Factory. Would save alot of effort...
Is the lubing method for tactile switches the same as the linear one?
Brown optical low-profile switches have additional super-little spring. I disassembled one and don't understand how it works and how I can assemble switch back.
I assembled one brown switch and it took too much time. I think brown switch is more complicated to assemble than linear (red, white, black), because it has tactile spring. Need some special tool for do it with lot of switches. Also all pieces are flimsy and you need some extra switches if you want tu lube they.
Can you change space bar stabilizer to a standard one?
hey, could you explain why less is more??:)
Thank you for this video. I think you are the first one to lube low profile switches and share the results. Also, do you think that adding films to these switches makes any sense?
Films won't fit.
Thanks for delivering on your promise! I’ve been waiting for this one.
Awesome video! Super in-depth and informative. 👍🏼
can we modify the stabilizer so that it can be paired with a conventional keycap?
Awesome video! Any chance to lube the optical ones or the Gateron ones without desoldering?
how long did it take you to finish lubing everything?
Around 5 hours - just tedious work
Do you know how the lube would impact brown switches? Will it remove any of the tactile feel?
It will absolutely remove it if you put too much in. I personally would not recommend it for brown switches.
@@Romsicle thanks for reply!
As long as you don't get lube on the stem legs, it won't remove any tactility from the switch. There's no problem in lubing browns/tactiles you just want to avoid getting lube on the stem legs in order to keep the tactility.
Wait, I have a keyboard with Gateron low profiles. But the thing is mine are hot-swappable, so would the process be at all similar for me then?
Yep!
Hi, is there filmings for optical low profile switches? Thanks
Not that I know of
Hihi...CAn we use other types of Keycaps? Which type would work? Thanks
I've read that the K2 are lubed by default. is this true?
Hey! Thanks for making this guide. I have a bit of a peculiar question. Do you know if it's possible to mod the Keychron K2 in such a way that I would insert the stabilizers of the K3 into the plate of the K2, so that I could then use all the low-profile keycaps of the K3 on the K2?
I don't think that's possible considering the K3 stabs are shorter in height. Your K2 would end up having long keys that float with no stabilizer support.
Hey, just got a Keychron C1 with mechanical switches hotswap. Is the process for removing, lubing, and reassembling the stabilizers gonna be the same for me? First time trying any of this!
It should resemble any hotswap keyboard. Process will be somewhat similar, so just go slow.
Did you ever try to mod the stabilizers so that it could fit normal keycaps?
I wouldn't even bother with it because the stab location is already hard cut into the metal. I'd rather just get a NuPhy Air75, which actually fits regular keycaps.
My K3 brown switches typing sound is not so nice. Can we also lube tactile optical low profile switches?
Yes, but you run the risk of losing all tactility in the switch.
@@RomsicleI tried once with 1 of brown switch and tactility has gone. 😂 Is it possible to lube by keeping tactility? 🥲
@@kanakochii You can use a thinner lubricant but with browns, tactility is basically not there to begin with, so you're in a tough spot.
@@kanakochii well it depends if you aligned the sprinf for the tactility back again after opening the switch.
Yet again an amazing video!
would it be okay to lube the mint switches?
I'd probably leave them as is, but you can probably put a TEENY amount for the mints
Is there going to be any difference in the process when lubing the k3 v2?
It should be the same. The only difference is the build quality of the case.
What are the most silent switches that fit a keychron low profile keyboards?
Optical reds
Doing this tomorrow, keep up the great content!!
0:13 Him: There are 2 versions of the keychron
The subtitles: Kikron
0:23 him: Gateron
Subtitles: gadoline
This video is heaven-sent!!!
How often do you need to lube these optical k3 switches?
Once
K3 V2, right?
Very nice video, deserves more views!
what are the springs weighted for in these switches?
Spring weight represents how much force you need to push to actuate them.
@@Romsicle yea, are they like 50g or 45g like standard profile reds?
Just got my V2 ... Def gonna do this mod. Any advice on finding after market keycaps?
There are none for Keychron low profile boards because of the staggered stab design
can you replace the stabs for the k3?
Unless you can find some aftermarket low profile stabs, then nope
I'm getting mine today and can't wait to lube it thanks. And do you know what keycaps to recommend for this keyboard?
Read the pinned comment!
Are you sure about the rubber part ?
It seems to me that it’s that rubber tip that triggers the optical sensor on the PCB and letting the keyboard know that you pressed that key.
But I might be wrong, I’m still waiting on my keyboard.
Oh yes, I completely left out that part. It keeps the stem in place AND acts as the stem pole. Thank for you for that.
I’m wondering, can you swap normal switches to the k3?
Nope - that would defeat the whole purpose of the board.
I love my k3 as it is. I’m new to this whole keyboard thing, do i need to lube the keys eventually ? I have the optical blue switches
It is generally not recommended to lube clicky switches but if you want to you can try lubing the springs to minimize pinging noise.
Stabilizers on the other hand will *definitely* have to be lubed. You’ll notice it makes the biggest difference.
@@asynchrony awesome, thanks for your reply man!
@Stoney Drey my pleasure, have a good one 🤙🏻
Been waiting for this video! Thanks man! Any thoughts on spray lubing it?
No reason why you can't, but you might get a lot of clumps which makes the switch worse.
Spray lubing does work, but it can get messy, and, in my opinion, it's not as good. Brush lubing is highly recommended and the majority of people prefer and use this method rather than the spray lubing method. Brush lubing takes much longer but it is worth it in the end.
One amazing thing you can do to it is to put o rings. I tried them in the past on a corsair k70 without much effect because the rebound sound was too loud, but since this is a low profile keyboard, the keycaps are actually light and don't make much sound on rebound. So the o rings are extremely effective. I wonder how lubed + o ring would sound like, I think i'll try because i think the keys could feel a bit smoother than they do rn
Nice one, bro!
But testing single buttons sound it’s better to place mic at the same distance ,)
What’s the name of the typing test you use?
monkeytype.com
hello bro, what about keychron blue optical switch ? should use krytox 205 too or 105 ? and its okay if we lubing all blue switch area like what you did in your video ? because i heard if lubing linear switch and clicky switch is different and this is new switch version. i need your advice about this because im waiting k3 pre order and wanna lube my k3 by myself for the first time, or maybe you wanna make a new video how to lubing clicky optical version haha thanks !
I personally would never lube clicky switches ever. You'll risk ruining the switches altogether.
Don't have to lube the Spring?
I only lubed the bottom of the springs and it was fine - you'll only need to fully lube the spring if you hear a lot of spring ping.
There is no sound difference?
good vid man!!!
great vid, earned a sub. definitely going to do this, might chuck some foam in an well while im at it.
It's already pretty muted so idk if foam is a good idea
@@Romsicle Interesting, thanks for the advice!
Extra spring for textile switch, ignore it your switch will become linear
Big thumbsup for that 5:02
actually stock sounds even better
Thank you!
Bro , do it for K1 V4 keychron 😁
Oh wow that's what I need
Thank you bro =)
Nice fade cuh
I love your hair
Before the video: I will lube my K3 once it’s delivered.
After watching this video: nvm
From what I read it’s not worth lubing these low profile optical switches, minimal improvement for time investment
a lot of work for an extremly little gain imho
bro where do you get 50 GRAMS OF KRYTOX
keys.my
@@Romsicle tysm actually
@@Romsicle my final question i guess is does it ship to the US or is it restricted to the Europe-Asia area only
You need to get more range
Dont open baanana switches ther is a microscopic spring the prvides the tactile feel and it will move out of place as soon as you open. You will never get it back into position and then it will become a linear switch forever after.
actually i managed to figure it out wiht some tweasers and the zoom on my phones camera. But then I pulled the rubber out and now its no longer functional lol.
Was it worth it? Not at all. Your space bar still sounds like sandpaper.
Worth
Well, My Tip is Silicone Spray. Squirt it in. And wipe off the excess. I think I'm doing it Right? 😂😂 I don't know. 😂😂
Do not attempt this if you have tactile switches. The tactile switches require insain precision to reassembal and after 4 hours and two destroyed switches I gave up and had to order replacements. It basically impossible unless you are Ant man.
I had no idea I had to lube my keyboard
My tinnitus can't tell the difference XD
U don’t need to disassemble the keeb for the stabs.
👍👍👍
I find all of this sooo unnecessary. The difference is pretty much unhearable and you risk so much when it comes to potential issues with hardware. As someone mentioned, those do have optical switches, so if you put your stupid lube in a way of a laser, you are screwed. What I'm trying to say is: don't overdo things when not needed.
Лол, пружину надо обязательно смазывать, иначе она будет звенеть.
mine became basically completely silent... hahahaha...
nem a pau, vai morrer seco meu k3
too much work.
😂 Same thinking
no brother of course its not worth it for that effort
Goofy keyboard