Concerning your Ninja Gaiden board it is likely one of two things. The first thing to check is your ribbon cables. Make sure they are plugged in tight and with the game running, try to flex the cable and see if anything changes. If not, the most likely suspects are quad flat pack Asics on the bottom of the board. One of them or several of them have likely lifted off the board where the legs connect. With the game running, try to press down on each one of the chips, you'll probably figure out which one or ones they are. After that, make sure to give them a nice reflow with flux and you should be good. Hope that helps
Great video! Thanks for sharing. You need to replace all of the brown Elna electrolytic capacitors near the sound circuit on the Irem M92 Skins PCB. They are notorious for going bad and leaking on M92 boards. Be sure to clean up any of the leaked electrolyte and check for damaged traces.
I had a similar sound coming from an M90 board, which has similar sound HW. It was a cold solder joint on the IC with the heat sink right by the volume pot. I just reflowed it and added a touch of fresh solder and it solved the problem. Talking about the M92 board running the Skins Games.
Love me some Jackal! I’m actually testing a Matsushita flyback for APAR right now, but next month is supposed to be Fix-It February. My Asteroids and Tempest are down, plus Carnival’s sound has been flaky. Although I want to knock out the Sidam Bosconian restoration too pretty soon…
A few years ago I bought at an auction of a closing arcade a whole bunch of arcade boards for cheap. Need to test them but there are some good boards like Indiana jones and the temple of doom, golden axe revenge of death adder, etc
@ yeah pretty much😅 I have multiple jamma cabinets that could test the jamma boards just haven’t gotten to it. Only one I’ve tested was a Galaga board for a project and it works great
@ I don’t remember most of them, I can name off a few more that I know are there. Area 51, Pacman, guerilla war, ikari warriors, X-men, Simpsons, mission xx, virtua fighter, another Galaga, Star Wars trilogy, a few various golden tees, marvel super heroes, Ivan Stewart’s off road, asteroids.
Yes, I know. The degaussing coil doesn’t *cause* the discoloration - its purpose is to try to *remove* it. But it doesn’t always do the job. I do have an external CRT degaussing coil (the big ring shaped one, not the cheap wand). I only use that when I’ve got a monitor in its permanent home spot. I turned the monitor in this video to show how that affects the issue.
Yes, turning the cabinet(changing the magnet poles) is the degaussing coils, auto only kick in when cold and only last a few seconds, if working, a help hand from a manual degaussing ring/coil/wand will help it towards correcting it self. Always be careful and do it correctly, as it could damage the mask inside the tube and you, plus having discoloration permanently.
@@overtimearcade Yes it can ... Then you have permanent bad colours . . Kids with magnets on the screen will damage the mask, had that happened a couple times in the arcade, ruining the CRT tube. Rotating in a circular motion over the whole screen, about 6" away, then smaller rotation, ending near the center, then slowly walking away. Time about 30 seconds, as the coil may overheat, as it is just a coil of wire using mains voltage. Inside the monitor, they have PTC, as it heats up, it reduces/stops the current. Hope this Helps 😁
Charlie, check your power supply output and your edge connector, too many glitches with different boards in the HZ cab, make sure board edge connectors are clean as well, just a feeling
Thanks - I just tried a new power supply in the horizontal cabinet, as well as testing the troublesome horizontal PCBs in the vertical cabinet, and they’re having the same issues.
@@overtimearcade yep. That’s what I thought I put it in the pile with the other golf games I didn’t think would sell…. Then I saw one that sold right away. With the multi kit I think they are close to a grand.
Those are NOT IL Eurosticks. Those actuators are not HAPP Ultimate, HAPP Competition or IL Eurosticks. As for the degauss you need to redegauss it once you have it in it's final location. The Earth's magnetic field will affect the image.
So what are they, then?? And I know how degaussing works. This cabinet won't really have a final location. I'll be moving it around the garage as needed.
@@overtimearcade I've seen those sticks before but I can't place them, they are probably some other HAPP model or a Coin Controls 8 way. I need a better picture of the actuator. I don't know if they are decent, I just know that I replace all my JAMMA 8 way sticks with IL Eurosticks.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Concerning your Ninja Gaiden board it is likely one of two things. The first thing to check is your ribbon cables. Make sure they are plugged in tight and with the game running, try to flex the cable and see if anything changes. If not, the most likely suspects are quad flat pack Asics on the bottom of the board. One of them or several of them have likely lifted off the board where the legs connect. With the game running, try to press down on each one of the chips, you'll probably figure out which one or ones they are. After that, make sure to give them a nice reflow with flux and you should be good. Hope that helps
Great video! Thanks for sharing. You need to replace all of the brown Elna electrolytic capacitors near the sound circuit on the Irem M92 Skins PCB. They are notorious for going bad and leaking on M92 boards. Be sure to clean up any of the leaked electrolyte and check for damaged traces.
Thanks - I’ll add that to my TODO list!!
I had a similar sound coming from an M90 board, which has similar sound HW. It was a cold solder joint on the IC with the heat sink right by the volume pot. I just reflowed it and added a touch of fresh solder and it solved the problem. Talking about the M92 board running the Skins Games.
Thanks - I’ll have a look for that!
Get to the choppa! Jackal was a fun NES game. Flyback February is just around the corner! Thanks, Charlie!!!
Love me some Jackal! I’m actually testing a Matsushita flyback for APAR right now, but next month is supposed to be Fix-It February. My Asteroids and Tempest are down, plus Carnival’s sound has been flaky. Although I want to knock out the Sidam Bosconian restoration too pretty soon…
@overtimearcade I commented before you mentioned Fix-it February. I like that too! Always great stuff!
Haha, thanks!
A few years ago I bought at an auction of a closing arcade a whole bunch of arcade boards for cheap. Need to test them but there are some good boards like Indiana jones and the temple of doom, golden axe revenge of death adder, etc
Wow, and you’ve just been sitting on them for years without testing them??
@ yeah pretty much😅 I have multiple jamma cabinets that could test the jamma boards just haven’t gotten to it. Only one I’ve tested was a Galaga board for a project and it works great
@AnthonyPresley-l8f What other PCBs are in that lot??
@ I don’t remember most of them, I can name off a few more that I know are there. Area 51, Pacman, guerilla war, ikari warriors, X-men, Simpsons, mission xx, virtua fighter, another Galaga, Star Wars trilogy, a few various golden tees, marvel super heroes, Ivan Stewart’s off road, asteroids.
Guerrilla War is a cool game!
Your corner discoloration on the tube is due the degaussing coil on the crt, surprised you haven't made one, from an old CRT or buy a degaussing wand.
Yes, I know. The degaussing coil doesn’t *cause* the discoloration - its purpose is to try to *remove* it. But it doesn’t always do the job. I do have an external CRT degaussing coil (the big ring shaped one, not the cheap wand). I only use that when I’ve got a monitor in its permanent home spot. I turned the monitor in this video to show how that affects the issue.
Yes, turning the cabinet(changing the magnet poles) is the degaussing coils, auto only kick in when cold and only last a few seconds, if working, a help hand from a manual degaussing ring/coil/wand will help it towards correcting it self. Always be careful and do it correctly, as it could damage the mask inside the tube and you, plus having discoloration permanently.
Degaussing can damage the mask?
@@overtimearcade Yes it can ... Then you have permanent bad colours . . Kids with magnets on the screen will damage the mask, had that happened a couple times in the arcade, ruining the CRT tube.
Rotating in a circular motion over the whole screen, about 6" away, then smaller rotation, ending near the center, then slowly walking away. Time about 30 seconds, as the coil may overheat, as it is just a coil of wire using mains voltage. Inside the monitor, they have PTC, as it heats up, it reduces/stops the current. Hope this Helps 😁
Charlie, check your power supply output and your edge connector, too many glitches with different boards in the HZ cab, make sure board edge connectors are clean as well, just a feeling
Thanks - I just tried a new power supply in the horizontal cabinet, as well as testing the troublesome horizontal PCBs in the vertical cabinet, and they’re having the same issues.
Love Dynamos and Jamma! Great to have for all those games you want to own but not dedicate a whole cab to.
Can't beat the convenience!
The irem skins board is used in a multi project and is very hard to get. I have sold a couple
lol I should watch before I comment you said the same thing!
How much do these boards typically go for??
@@overtimearcade I sold one for $350 and one for $325. One on klov and one on eBay
@erickoren DAAAANG!!!
@@overtimearcade yep. That’s what I thought I put it in the pile with the other golf games I didn’t think would sell…. Then I saw one that sold right away. With the multi kit I think they are close to a grand.
👍
🫡
Those are NOT IL Eurosticks. Those actuators are not HAPP Ultimate, HAPP Competition or IL Eurosticks. As for the degauss you need to redegauss it once you have it in it's final location. The Earth's magnetic field will affect the image.
So what are they, then??
And I know how degaussing works. This cabinet won't really have a final location. I'll be moving it around the garage as needed.
@@overtimearcade I've seen those sticks before but I can't place them, they are probably some other HAPP model or a Coin Controls 8 way. I need a better picture of the actuator. I don't know if they are decent, I just know that I replace all my JAMMA 8 way sticks with IL Eurosticks.
They seem good to me. I think I have the same ones in my NBA Jam.
@@overtimearcade You aren't a Fighting Game guy like I am. If you were you would care more about the sticks.
@tigheklory Shaq Fu was my favorite fighting game growing up.
I have some Ninja Gaiden joy sticks if you need them.
Ninja Gaiden used special joysticks?
@overtimearcade yes, they have red buttons on the top.
@jeffm9482 That seems so strange for a side scrolling game!
@overtimearcade yea, I have had a few of them. Fun game but always find something else I like better. I can post a Pic of them is dis ord if you want.
@jeffm9482 Please do!
ninja warriors 1988
Great game!
nice presentation but as a game it didn't earn much....better the dragon ninja data east its similar
I’m not sure I’ve played that other one!
Um no, thats not the normal sounds for Skins Game 😅
I thought my neighbor was having trouble starting his truck!
the rival rush end crash capcom
Which game is that!
the speed rumbler
I’ve never heard of it!
Dude looks like you have power supply issues.
Could be!
Sounds like your Skins Game needs a new muffler. :)
Uh oh, better MAACO!