That’s some large cabinetry build, it will be a job and a half moving that around when it’s completed, I hope you won’t have to carry it up too many steps, I like this way of fixing the face frames, it absolutely locks everything together and square, nothing worse than moving things around when built for them to get knocked out of square before you get the chance to fit them 👌👌👌👍👍👍🇦🇺
I love your videos. Thanks again for sharing - I'm planning on making something like this in the spring and I feel like I just attended a master Class. Thanks so much - perfect.
I've watched you for years. I learn from you and I appreciate the way you teach. It just occurred to me when I saw you using screws I don't know what kind of screws you use. There are so many types out there its confusing. Your understanding, your knowledge would be appreciated. Thank you, Duane.
I mostly keep drywall screws in the shop. That is because when I do use screws it’s usually not structural and they are inexpensive. In this application the dados and glue are holding the cabinet together, it essentially does not need screws. I’m using the screws as clamps to pull the pieces together as the glue dries, I can take them out after the glue dries, and it won’t affect the integrity of the structure. If I use permanent structural screws I do try and remember to use screws designed for wood, they are more expensive but less brittle then drywall screws. Luckily, I mostly rely on solid joinery versus mechanical fasteners in the shop so it’s rare I need to buy them.
Hello H. B. Hope your doing well. That is as you say , one B. A. B. I’m beginning to think these built - in’s are becoming larger than the last lol. You always do such an exceptional job building these in a shop of relatively small footprint , like a lot of us. There is no doubt when done, this build will look great. Sticking with a wax finish or water lox ? At the moment can’t remember if you mentioned final finish when completed. Also nice to see you comfortably warm in your shop compared to the carriage shop. Don’t know how we’re able to do all that you accomplished working in that cold. Have a good rest of your evening, enjoyed this morning’s video. Careful with your back lifting those cabinets. Take care.
Caitlin, I'm not sure if this is of interest to you but noting your large outfeed table on the table saw. Have you considered lubricating the saw and out feed tables to make your ripping of sheet goods a little easier? The sheets would glide with less effort. I keep a bar of paraffin in the shop for hand saw blades, crosscut sled bottom, table saw table, hand plane sole, etc. Just a couple of seconds to grab it, scribble a line of wax on the surface and go to town. Makes a noticeable difference. I've never had an issue of it transferring to the wood I'm working on and interfering with any wood finish or glue-ups. Oh, and "B.A.B.", Love it!
Thank you for sharing your awesome and very large bottom built in project with us today. That is a good way to attach the face frames. Looks great. You do a wonderful job working by yourself. Hope the diesel heater is still beneficial. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia.
Looking forward to the next segment of this project. You seem to tolerate manipulating those sheets of plywood around the shop. I can’t really do that anymore without doing damage to the plywood or myself. Thus, I went to the track saw and I really like it. I can confidently break down the sheets to either get smaller pieces into the table saw or even do final dimensions. I use an after market jig to make 90 degree cuts which is remarkably accurate. The other thing that works well is miter cuts such as you might want for “water fall” grain in finish grade plywood cabinets. Anyway, it’s been an investment that I am super happy with. Does not replace the table saw of course but it sure is handy.
Good morning 🌅,Honey B , very nice project, considering the size of your workshop you are doing amazingly well well done, but be very safe, when I started out, I had to draw everything out on the drawing board, as we say old school, definitely a good idea when building cabinets in to describe panels, , I have even been given a contract to build in a plinth, in a very old cottage that was having fitted furniture fitted in the bedroom, the floors and walls were so far out, that the company that made some of the furniture had to take it back and rebuild it, as there was a difference of nearly 6 inches over the length of the bedroom, if you haven’t got sufficient clamps, use some two before or are used to make up some ply plywood runners, that I could use as additional sash clamps, I would screw blocks onto the face and make up long tapered wedges so when I put the plywood rail that I’ve made up across whatever I want you to clamp the blocks would then go down on either side whereby then I could drive in the wedges on either side to pull the cabinet or whatever together, I did end up making some very long steel clamps in the end, you could buy the extra ends for the sash clamps to fit on whatever you wanted to make up, , Stay safe, Keep up the great work , look forward to seeing the next part of the project, regards from France,
@ Hi 👋, I have been trying to put some window frames together over last week, that I made 7/8 years ago, when I was back in the Uk , I am missing some of the components, I started to set them out , I then had to stop, ✋, I don’t have a workbench/assembly bench bigger enough, I left mine back in the UK, I was very stupid. I gave it to somebody., it cost an awful lot of money, if you know what a MFT table looks like from Festool, , mine was approximately 3 1/2 m in length by 1 1/2 m in width, with aluminium track going away around it, this would obviously be too big for my premises now, but I’m using all my offcuts and bits and pieces so I can find to make the bench itself, but all I have to purchase a piece of MDF or something for the Top, luckily I’ve still got most of my tools and equipment, apart from my Mortising, this was a serious bit of kit, it got chain mortise set on one side and square chisel on the other, with air operator clamps, I still have my Wadkin EKA tenoner , been trying to remember how to set it up, I haven’t used it for over five years, it’s a daunting bit of kit, And I did have a look to see whether I’ve got some clamping heads to make up your own sash clamps , I do have them if you go online, there are a lot of different makes, I suggest buying something if you’re going to do this a good quality set, over here in France they arrange from about €25-€30 or just over for a set that’s the block and the screw part of the clamp, I’ve imagine if you were interested, you could probably buy some online over in your neck of the woods, and there are some with threaded parts inside so you could buy a threaded rod to make up your sash clamp, to the size you want, Regards from France,
Always interesting to see how you construct and adapt on the go. A bit tight definitely but nice not to have to open the doors fully to fit in full sheets like the old workshop. I'm so frozen in just now it's hard to get the doors open. I hope your shop is staying warm. Look forward to seeing the unit come together.
Thanks! The distal heater is still working great, so I get it to mid 50s in there. And with moving all these sheet goods around I usually end up taking off a layer because I’m sweating.
Don’t you just wish for a nice, heated pole barn, about 120 feet x 120 feet, automatic garage doors at each end, fully lighted and powered with 480/240/120………me too, but I’m also stuck in a garage! Gonna be a good series!
Thanks, this was very helpful. Will the removable double groove face frame present a challenge to fitting the drawers, similar to what you described when explaining the reason for permanent attachment of the other side?
The double groove makes it so they align perfectly in place again after being removed. The single groove has just enough play to sometimes throw things off. I also do not anticipate having to scribe the bottom cabinets because they are only a little over two feet tall and usually the wall is square in small sections. I usually end up not having to scribe bottom cabinets when they are shorter like this versus floor to ceiling stiles.
When you only need 4 or 5 if you look long enough they are there. They won’t stay that way though. Which is why I usually get 2x6s, they are a much nicer grade of lumber and much more true.
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That’s some large cabinetry build, it will be a job and a half moving that around when it’s completed, I hope you won’t have to carry it up too many steps, I like this way of fixing the face frames, it absolutely locks everything together and square, nothing worse than moving things around when built for them to get knocked out of square before you get the chance to fit them 👌👌👌👍👍👍🇦🇺
Building the cabinets saves you a trip to the gym. Great start on the project.
It's gonna look amazing!
I love your videos. Thanks again for sharing - I'm planning on making something like this in the spring and I feel like I just attended a master Class. Thanks so much - perfect.
I've watched you for years. I learn from you and I appreciate the way you teach. It just occurred to me when I saw you using screws I don't know what kind of screws you use. There are so many types out there its confusing. Your understanding, your knowledge would be appreciated. Thank you, Duane.
I mostly keep drywall screws in the shop. That is because when I do use screws it’s usually not structural and they are inexpensive. In this application the dados and glue are holding the cabinet together, it essentially does not need screws. I’m using the screws as clamps to pull the pieces together as the glue dries, I can take them out after the glue dries, and it won’t affect the integrity of the structure. If I use permanent structural screws I do try and remember to use screws designed for wood, they are more expensive but less brittle then drywall screws. Luckily, I mostly rely on solid joinery versus mechanical fasteners in the shop so it’s rare I need to buy them.
Hello H. B. Hope your doing well. That is as you say , one B. A. B. I’m beginning to think these built - in’s are becoming larger than the last lol. You always do such an exceptional job building these in a shop of relatively small footprint , like a lot of us. There is no doubt when done, this build will look great. Sticking with a wax finish or water lox ? At the moment can’t remember if you mentioned final finish when completed. Also nice to see you comfortably warm in your shop compared to the carriage shop. Don’t know how we’re able to do all that you accomplished working in that cold.
Have a good rest of your evening, enjoyed this morning’s video. Careful with your back lifting those cabinets. Take care.
Caitlin, I'm not sure if this is of interest to you but noting your large outfeed table on the table saw. Have you considered lubricating the saw and out feed tables to make your ripping of sheet goods a little easier? The sheets would glide with less effort. I keep a bar of paraffin in the shop for hand saw blades, crosscut sled bottom, table saw table, hand plane sole, etc. Just a couple of seconds to grab it, scribble a line of wax on the surface and go to town. Makes a noticeable difference. I've never had an issue of it transferring to the wood I'm working on and interfering with any wood finish or glue-ups.
Oh, and "B.A.B.", Love it!
Looking good.
Thank you for sharing your awesome and very large bottom built in project with us today. That is a good way to attach the face frames. Looks great. You do a wonderful job working by yourself. Hope the diesel heater is still beneficial. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia.
The Diesel heater is saving my life this winter. Last two winters were unseasonably warm, and now we are closer to average so I fire it up every day.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks I am sure it's cold but not old shop cold.
Complicated build for a smaller workshop. You’re making it look easy, I am sure it is not. Thanks
It’s easier going now that the base is done. That depth was a bit of a pain.
Looking forward to the next segment of this project. You seem to tolerate manipulating those sheets of plywood around the shop. I can’t really do that anymore without doing damage to the plywood or myself. Thus, I went to the track saw and I really like it. I can confidently break down the sheets to either get smaller pieces into the table saw or even do final dimensions. I use an after market jig to make 90 degree cuts which is remarkably accurate. The other thing that works well is miter cuts such as you might want for “water fall” grain in finish grade plywood cabinets. Anyway, it’s been an investment that I am super happy with. Does not replace the table saw of course but it sure is handy.
People always tell me how much they love their track saw. They do look extremely handy.
Good morning 🌅,Honey B , very nice project, considering the size of your workshop you are doing amazingly well well done, but be very safe, when I started out, I had to draw everything out on the drawing board, as we say old school, definitely a good idea when building cabinets in to describe panels, , I have even been given a contract to build in a plinth, in a very old cottage that was having fitted furniture fitted in the bedroom, the floors and walls were so far out, that the company that made some of the furniture had to take it back and rebuild it, as there was a difference of nearly 6 inches over the length of the bedroom, if you haven’t got sufficient clamps, use some two before or are used to make up some ply plywood runners, that I could use as additional sash clamps, I would screw blocks onto the face and make up long tapered wedges so when I put the plywood rail that I’ve made up across whatever I want you to clamp the blocks would then go down on either side whereby then I could drive in the wedges on either side to pull the cabinet or whatever together, I did end up making some very long steel clamps in the end, you could buy the extra ends for the sash clamps to fit on whatever you wanted to make up, ,
Stay safe,
Keep up the great work , look forward to seeing the next part of the project, regards from France,
Thanks! I have seen a clamp trick similar to what you are describing and always wanted to try it, but usually forget in the moment.
@ Hi 👋, I have been trying to put some window frames together over last week, that I made 7/8 years ago, when I was back in the Uk , I am missing some of the components, I started to set them out , I then had to stop, ✋, I don’t have a workbench/assembly bench bigger enough, I left mine back in the UK, I was very stupid. I gave it to somebody., it cost an awful lot of money, if you know what a MFT table looks like from Festool, , mine was approximately 3 1/2 m in length by 1 1/2 m in width, with aluminium track going away around it, this would obviously be too big for my premises now, but I’m using all my offcuts and bits and pieces so I can find to make the bench itself, but all I have to purchase a piece of MDF or something for the Top, luckily I’ve still got most of my tools and equipment, apart from my Mortising, this was a serious bit of kit, it got chain mortise set on one side and square chisel on the other, with air operator clamps, I still have my Wadkin EKA tenoner , been trying to remember how to set it up, I haven’t used it for over five years, it’s a daunting bit of kit,
And I did have a look to see whether I’ve got some clamping heads to make up your own sash clamps , I do have them if you go online, there are a lot of different makes, I suggest buying something if you’re going to do this a good quality set, over here in France they arrange from about €25-€30 or just over for a set that’s the block and the screw part of the clamp, I’ve imagine if you were interested, you could probably buy some online over in your neck of the woods, and there are some with threaded parts inside so you could buy a threaded rod to make up your sash clamp, to the size you want, Regards from France,
Always interesting to see how you construct and adapt on the go. A bit tight definitely but nice not to have to open the doors fully to fit in full sheets like the old workshop. I'm so frozen in just now it's hard to get the doors open. I hope your shop is staying warm. Look forward to seeing the unit come together.
Thanks! The distal heater is still working great, so I get it to mid 50s in there. And with moving all these sheet goods around I usually end up taking off a layer because I’m sweating.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks That's good to hear though now I'm even more envious of your shop! hahaha
Don’t you just wish for a nice, heated pole barn, about 120 feet x 120 feet, automatic garage doors at each end, fully lighted and powered with 480/240/120………me too, but I’m also stuck in a garage! Gonna be a good series!
Stop it I’m drooling at the thought.
That’s a lot of manipulation , shoulders must be tight. Pretty big project….waiting for the next instalment. ❤❤❤
Thanks, this was very helpful. Will the removable double groove face frame present a challenge to fitting the drawers, similar to what you described when explaining the reason for permanent attachment of the other side?
The double groove makes it so they align perfectly in place again after being removed. The single groove has just enough play to sometimes throw things off. I also do not anticipate having to scribe the bottom cabinets because they are only a little over two feet tall and usually the wall is square in small sections. I usually end up not having to scribe bottom cabinets when they are shorter like this versus floor to ceiling stiles.
Good grief... where do you get those nice flat, straight 2x4s?
When you only need 4 or 5 if you look long enough they are there. They won’t stay that way though. Which is why I usually get 2x6s, they are a much nicer grade of lumber and much more true.
Nice....richard if Normandy(sounds neat doesn't it...)rr
Hey I'm the first person to comment. I feel privileged. 😄 Oh, nice job again Katie
Hahahahaha. Thanks for watching.
Great start, like you said no real point in giving out sizes as its built for a certain size but it will certainly show how you build this B.A.B 😂🤣😂
Agreed, every built in is unique.