Thanks so much ! Im just turning 70 ,and my life has been one built on useful tools, useful skills and good humor..finding your work is like coming home!
Used your recipe to re proof my motorcycle jacket - tested on a wet trip through Wales - completely sealed the jacket including the zips . I’ve used spray on , the Gold Label’ cream and a soak in tent proofer before - I can honestly say your bar wax was easier to use (unexpected !) and for the first time my jacket had no leaks at all despite the levee breaking weather .
Thankyou so much for this post, using this method I knocked up a tub of wax using around an 1" 1/2" cut from a fat candle, mixed with 1/2 bottle of baby oil & half a tin of Barbour wax (I was very loose with the ingredient amounts) blitzed in a microwave then mixed thoroughly, so far, I`ve rewaxed 1 (Bomber style) waxed jacket & waterproofed a brand new canvas backpack, I used a hair dryer as it was my first attempt but, I`d have no hesitation going with a heatgun the next time just to speed things up. At a tenner for Barbour wax alone I`ve saved a fortune & I`ve still got half a (large 500g) tub left! Lovely.
Just re waxed an old Barbour knock off and a real drizzabone over the weekend. Made the wax bar weeks ago, applied it this weekend. Fantastic, works like a charm and very satisfying to do. Now need to test in anger, but as I live in Scotland the opportunity is bound to present itself soon 😁 Would have done it sooner but had to wait till the wife was away so that I could do it in the kitchen, don't have a barn....sadly. Top tips and guidance from you, many thanks
After some research, I have decided on refined cocoa butter in place of paraffin wax and I wanted to post a comment so others can consider this option. Here is my thought process; "traditional" waxes available use beeswax and tallow. Cocoa butter is harder than tallow and actually has a higher content of stearic acid! It's softening point is higher also and nicely compliments beeswax I think. Following the theme of matching plant to plant, I didn't want to use tallow on cotton. As a bonus, it's white. Probably don't want to use mineral oil with this mixture, the only suitable plant oils I can come up with that don't go rancid are flax and camellia(used on knifes). Linseed oil itself will weaken and destroy cotton if it is dried too slowly so that rules out raw. I plan to try to use high quality boiled and pine tar because my coat is black and losing color.
Small update; I tested the safety of hand washing and reproofing. I picked a test area area 100mm square and using minimal pressure rubbed soap on and rinsed. I dried with a hair dryer and rubbed in 3 layers direct from a beeswax bar with liberal use of the hair dryer. The reason for this is that I have concerns about leaving paraffin on the surface as well as fully removing it from the pores. The result; after washing I confirmed that I had compromised the surface layer of wax by dribbling water on the area and an adjacent area. There was no other negative consequences. After drying and waxing I confirmed that I had restored the water repellency. The beeswax alone is not a sufficient replacement for paraffin as it contains no excess oil and does leave a slight yellow hue. This was purely for testing. The plan is as follows; I will hand wash the liner carefully. Then I will make a coat soap containing the soap form of the oil I intend to use in my final wax and lightly wash the whole coat lightly. Then I will formulate my reproofing wax and apply it and report back how all that went. The product I am most closely replicating is something called otterwax, the only plant based wax on the market.
Tallow shouldn’t be used to make oil waxed canvas anyways but cocoa is even dumber. What a waste of cocoa butter. Paraffin, or even better, micro crystalline wax with some linseed oil is the best. Alternatively, you could use a bit of mineral oil but minerals oil stay liquid and doesn’t dry/polymerize like linseed oil or boiled linseed oil (boiled linseed oil dries faster due to the petroleum distillates that are added to it that evaporate and cause the oil to polymerize faster.
I've been watching videos on how to wax a jacket and I find your technique to be the best and less messy. Most of the videos have you melting wax and "painting" the wax onto the garment then melting with a heat gun. Your method is more controlled on the amount of wax used. Thanks
I have been a subscriber for quite a while now but recently introduced my OH as he wanted to rewax his driaza-bone coat. He made the wax last week and rewaxed his barbour this weekend. So easy to make and rewax. We are both very interested in this type of content and appreciate any that you publish. Thank you.
Great educational video plus good dialog and editing. Wish I'd seen this "lesson" before the "others" as it's been by far the best. Not simply re-waxing, but also how to make your own wax that is most suitable for your needs ...... excellent.
@@EnglishCountryLife I live on the coast where we aren’t that bad. Our summer highs are around 15 c and our winter highs are around -4 c. You get inland and the wrong jacket choice will kill you.
I've just re-waxed my Barbour jacket and it's like new again! I like the point you made about it being a sustainable choice, especially significant given the recent media obsession with clothing that's kind to the environment.
Just picked up a Kiwi Backhouse jacket from a local Hospice charity shop for 18 quid. (A Barbour company) In the same colour as the Driza Bone coat shown here. It's in brilliant condition, and I'm looking forward to re-proofing it. Cheers for this video...
It has been two years since you made this video and I have just discovered it. Great, practical ideas. I have an Australian Drover's coat that has lost it waterproofness. The commercial preparations to restore it are very expensive. Thanks, now you've shown me how put this coat back in service.
I really like this video, I watched it some years ago but never forgot it, spent quite a while looking for it so that I can rewax a jacket for a Christmas present 😊 Thank you
Thanks very much for the lovely walk though. I have an oil cloth bag, hat, canvass tarp, and my father's raincoat that could all do with a rewaxing. Thanks for making it look so straightforward!
I’m so glad you made the distinction between paraffin and beeswax for heavy vs. light weatherproofing. I live in Florida, and I tend to get caught in some pretty nasty, cats and dogs type thunderstorms at my uni. The breathable raincoat I bought was much more breathable and much less waterproof than I had hoped for, and I’m really looking for something that could survive practically biblical amounts of rain.
"pouring cats an dogs"--? Sure You do not live in Buenos Aires, Argentina? SURE? Here, by the river, open to the ocean, when southeast wind appears, we prepare for the worst! (the saying is; "viento sudeste, llueve como peste" )(southeast wind, rains like hell) The "breathable" is not "waterproof"....If You can use the advice of a motorcycle rider.....(me)..: when buying, force with your mouth , and all the strenght of your lungs, some air troughout the fabric. If even some little air gets trough, it is NOT waterproof!
I’ve just finished re-waxing my cheap 60s knockoff Barbour riding jacket. I must confess I had washed it in the washing machine when I got it, not knowing the destruction I would cause I always vowed to repair it. I’m happy to say that after two hours with my grandfathers heat gun and about 150g of your soft wax recipe it has just got me through a Yorkshire deluge like it was nothing. Dry as a bone underneath. Thank you so much for the easy to follow instructions!!
Thank you so much 😊 , I've just waxed my 2 year old Barbour with their own wax, but I'll definitely be using your wax recipe and method next year, much appreciated
I have a bunch of cans of Barbour wax and now I'm trying to figure out how to turn them all into bars! this method seems easier and cleaner than the conventional "sponge" method.
Excellent! I already made some saddle soap and dubbing for my boots and other leather goods according to your recipes. Now, I think I finally have to re-wax my Barbour Beaufort jacket ;) I think I'll go with the softer wax.
We live in WIsconsin in the US. My husband has a favorite coat that is cotton exterior shell with hood for blowing snow. He comes in soaking wet and cold. Thank you for this excellent method to waterproof this coat. I am appreciative of your shared knowledge! Thanks
thanks for the video! i got a waxed jacket at an estate auction that desperately needed reproofing, and i ended up spending more on wax than i did on the jacket. in the future, i'll make my own wax with your recipe!
Thank you for making this video. I was looking for a recipe to use on my jacket and this is the first time I've seen someone actually say the ratio of ingredients. Most everything I found online just kept saying buy this and use it but I already have beeswax handy and want to use it. Edit: correction you gave multiple recipes depending on application. Thanks again
I love my Barbour international Duke jacket.. best jacket I have ever had..I have also owned North mface Gore-Tex jackets, they’re fantastic, but they don’t look nearly as good as the old English style wax cotton jackets… Practical and they look great… And yes sustainable, the kind of thing you will hand down for generations… although I don’t plan on passing mine down 🙃I can’t wait to make my own cotton canvas camo jacket… Great video.✌️
Thank for unmystifying the wax. A similar product sells for around 15$ US. Here in America. For only a few ounces. Probably less then half of your bar.. You are spot on mate !!! Thank you !!!
Greetings from Argentina, excellent video. I have used english waxed jackets for a long time in the Argentine countryside and this video is very useful. Regards.
I’ve become addicted to your channel after finding it yesterday. I’ve binged and it’s such good content and explained so well. So useful to have the UK detail. More, more, more requested from me please!
@@EnglishCountryLife Have been involved in country pursuits for 50 odd years, have tried quite a few waterproof jackets and now wear my Barbours only (have seven), as you have said goretex jackets are very good but don't last, a big failing is a 2 layer bonded fabric with a seperate drop liner, friction from the liner over the shoulders and outside elbow area wears the goretex away letting it leak, l enjoy reproofing my Barbours and find it a good way to unwind! Have got a Barbour thornproof game bag that l bought new in 1980, whilst out shopping the other day another shopper offered my £100 for it there and then, it's still on my coat rack, can't get rid of an old friend!!!
In 2015 we made a trip to England and in a Cirencester, I found a John Partridge landowner jacket for 25 pounds. I convinced my husband it was a great jacket even though I was unfamiliar with companies in the UK and we brought it home. I have always wondered how I would take care of it and this is so fantastic to find this video of it. Also great to hear we can use the wax on canvas as now I am thinking of waxing the canvas covers for our winches, sails and windlass I am sewing. Thank you so very much!!
@@EnglishCountryLife Update: I made it last year and love it! Husband's jacket turned out perfectly - I'll be re-waxing soon. Life got in the way and so I will be sewing the sailcovers this winter and feel confident with the wax. Thank you. I just shared this video with another RUclipsr. Cheers and thanks again!
I think my coat is similar to yours,I bought it cheap,sowed it up,fixed the zip and rewaxed it,but I used the stuff they sell in a pot and I don't think I did it right. Your method seems a much better plan 👍 Once again thanks for sharing.
Finally rewaxed my Driza-Bone coat. I was surprised to discover it had lost it's waterproofing when working one day. Followed along with this video and hopefully it'll be ready for the upcoming scottish rainy season.
Hi Tamra. They are chicken saddles - a welfare item for an active breeding flock. We have a short video to explain them ruclips.net/video/bRxkXWjJ-Ns/видео.html
Thank you for a great idea, good sir. You are absolutely spot on regarding wax cotton. It's a timeless material. I've got a UK made Karrimor wax jacket, which is as hard as a cardboard and smells like wax from far. It's a jacket with character. And I like it for that. Separate respect for Driza-bone. I've got their wax hat. Another amazing garment with character. Kind greetings from Ukraine!
I have Filson Tin Chaps for upland hunting in Montana. I use Johnson Paste Wax which is the same paste wax I use on my table saw. Been using that for over 30 years and it is simple, quick, and works for me.
Thank you for this video! Coming at you from the Pacific Northwest in the United States and man we get a lot of rain! Haha my waxed canvas vest and jacket need to be rewaxed bad!
this is fantastic! I figured that different forms of wax (bar vs. cream/tin) rendered different finishes, but you just proved that theory wrong ❤. I like a shinier wax finish, and I thought I had to use a Filson's type wax to achieve that finish. But you clearly just got that finish with your bar wax. So, I assume its the amount of wax? My Fjallraven wax bars just absorb right into the fabric and leave no shine on the fabric, leaving me feeling like it's not really waxy enough to protect the fabric from rain. Thank you for this video! I know it's 3 years old, but it's very informative.
Thanks Rebecca! You can get subtly different finishes by varying the oil to wax ratio - the more oil, the more easily absorbed it is. Adding very hard waxes like carnauba wax can increase the shine but a very high shine is tricky because it cracks as the garment flexes
@@EnglishCountryLife so, this may seem a silly question, but even if the wax completely absorbs into the fabric, the fabric should still be protected by the wax? I just waxed a bag, thoroughly, with some Filson wax, and in parts it absorbed completely. And thank you for your previous reply. It's very helpful! 😊
I work in an outdoor clothing shop and sell a lot of plastic, which bothers me but it's my job. I don't wear much though, and what I have is up for sale. I'm in the process of going Ventile and waxed cotton. I DO get a very good staff discount though, and use it on Grangers G-Wax, which will absolutely do the job when applied to cotton or polycotton. It's easy to apply with a cloth as it's waxy (!), and doesn't need to be melted so it's safer than having hot wax around. I just stick the waxed garments in the clothes dryer for 10 mins on a high heat to settle the wax in and I'm done. I should add that there is no Mrs. Badger to get mad about what I'm doing with the dryer!
Liked, Subscribed, and now am binge-watching your videos! Great content. Thank you sir from a northeast Louisiana Bayou man. Wet and rainy much of the year here, so I'm about to wax my Orvis barn jacket.
Thanks Hugh - another great DIY project to extend the life of what we own. We really like that you give alternatives in terms of recipes and tools too. Finally a use for the hairdryer languishing in the bathroom cupboard! Cheers, Deb and Geoff.
English Country Life now there’s another excellent idea...! Yes our hairdryer hasn’t been used since our daughters left home. I’ve come close to tossing it but was hoping it could be repurposed in some way - problem now solved!
I was so happy to see you'd shot a new video... This is interesting.. I have a recipe saved away somewhere. It says to paint it on with a brush. Warm liquid. I have a dry as a bone long horse riding coat to do. Thanks for the video. Take care. I'll be shooting a video of my version of thevre waxing recipe this month too.
Nice video! I didn't know about the mineral oil mix....here (Argentina) It is commonly used as "baby oil" and is somewhat cheap. Worth trying, surely! Thanks for the tip about that and the "hard wax" - "soft wax" recipes!!
Brilliant thank you. I have a Barbour which I have needed to do for a while and having seen your film now know exactly what to do! There is a particular pleasure from restoration. Robert.
This is my next project! I have all ingredients to make it this weekend, last night I made some furniture polish with your formula and I'm pretty happy with the results, thanks for all your time and effort to make all this videos.
@@EnglishCountryLife Good man! I made some hand cream for my daughter using one of your recipes too! I'll get it to her this coming weekend and see what she thinks😁
Great video, I have some good leather and just acquired some light canvas to make a backpack for hiking, I wanted to wax the canvas and possibly the leather too but can only find a so called dressing for wax jackets here. I experimented with paraffin wax and made waterproof cardboard out of a piece of the canvas, my next attempt was going to be trial and error with paraffin and almond oil but you have saved me the trouble. Incidentally, sweet almond oil with bees wax, is a good treatment for wooden platters, it stops detergents breaking down the wood and obviously is a food safe mixture.
Really interesting video, thanks! I’ve heard of people doing this with a iron by sandwiching the fabric between two sheets of greaseproof paper, placing an old towel on top and ironing on top of that. I’ve never tried that approach myself but was recommended by an old horsey lady who’d done it that way for years and is out in all weathers!
Happy i came across such a video. Looking to re wax my Ship John Wills jacket and then you made the distinction of heavy versus light wax. The jacket is already thick. So putting heavy wax again would make seem like it just needs to be re broken in
Thank you so much for sharing this! I have a gatehouse stockman coat, so the NZ version of the cost in the video and it keeps me so dry when I’m riding. The only problem is it used to belong to my brother in law so it’s huge on me. I’ve been meaning to make myself a long cotton jacket and wax it but I wasn’t sure the best way to go about it. I normally buy the tins of Barbour wax but they can be very pricey. I’m definitely going to try your recipe!
Another good quality and informative video, learning a lot watching your channel and adopting some of you methods. Currently on your dehydrating series. You certainly deserve more subscribers. Thanks again.
Fab video again Hugh, hadn't even thought of re-waxing the jackets. You mentioned your soap making moulds....have you got any videos of your soap making? If not, it would be great if you get the chance to make one 🙂
Excellent content! I came here from the dubbin video was planning to watch the earlier ones until I found this first. I have a 22 year old oilskin duster that I bought new that has been my signature garment that I am never without. I have my own formulation, and a different climate, but I am always interested in other's opinions. Nobody around here knows what this thing I am wearing is!
Thats a useful recipe. Been rewaxing Barbour gear for years. Wouldn't want anything else when pushing through blackthorn or bramble patches when ferreting a must have item in my book. Thanks for a great video its appreciated
I wish I had seen this video before I recently rewaxed my Barbour. A much better and safer method than melting the tin of wax in hot water. I've got a second coat to do, so will definitely be using this method. Are there any tips on mending a small hole in the sleeve of a jacket?
Great video, I have subscribed. One question though. Im a beekeeper, what would the drawbacks be of using just beeswax with mineral oil, if any. Thanks.
Hi Steve, we used to be beekeepers too (until unfortunately Fiona developed a horrendous allergy). Anyway to answer your question, I find beeswax very hard and brittle. This is why it makes a brilliant polish as being hard, it takes a shine. On a garment I find it cracks. You can add more oil to the wax but it can end up feeling greasy because so much oil is needed. Adding a softer wax like paraffin can increase flexibility without greasiness. I'm sure there are other formulas that do work, so if you find one, let me know!
Another great video Hugh. One quick question, why not brush the wax on when it had melted? Cheers John. Have been thinking about a coat for winter for using around the small holding and now I know what to get, so thanks again
Hi John! Some people do it that way & I have in the past. The trouble I had was it was very difficult not to totally saturate the garment with too much wax. I also found it hard to get it even. For people with a steadier hand or better eye than I have, it's a valid approach, but for a klutz like me, the crayoning gives a controllable, even finish. Hugh
I've just bought a Barbour for £20 too and it's in pretty good condition. Think its about 30 years old from the style. Only thing is I love the colour and I know the wax will make it a lot darker. Am thinking of spraying it instead with waterproofer. Probably a terrible idea
I certainly wouldn't use a synthetic spray like Scotchgard. I doubt it would end well 😟. You can make a wax using pure white beeswax & paraffin wax & clear oil which will darken less, but it will darken - sorry
If there is still wax on the jacket then the waterproofer wont work. If the jacket is free of wax, maybe you washed it, then the waterproof spray will work ok but only for a short while. in my experience, not nearly as long as wax. It's not something I would waste time on again.
Fantastic video well done . I have had some very strong smelling coats anyway to fix that? also they seem cold to the touch. Will this easily rub off on car seats etc. Tks simon from mo. Usa
Hi Simon, you can add essential oil to create a smell you like. It shouldn't rub off very easily - its a hard wax, but I wouldn't wear it in the car if it worries you
This is the best video I’ve seen on waxing a jacket. Being able to make my own wax to is great. Thank you so much for this video. If you added a pigment, would you be able to change the colour of a garment and wax it. Or would dying it first then waxing be best?
@@robmarshallofficial A hot wash with plenty of detergent will do it, then rinse well. You can do it in the washing machine but I fear gunking that up so I use a big garden trug and a scrubbing brush plus plenty of liquid detergent! Rinse well afterwards
Hi, thanks for the useful video. Curious if you know what’s in the Barbour tin, and also why you recommend parafin and mineral oil in addition to the beeswax? Have you tried your mixture as a liquid the way Barbour recommend? Thanks
Hi, No idea what's in the Barbour tin but there are only so many oils and waxes. Beeswax alone is very brittle & will tend to crack. Adding oil and paraffin wax creates a mixture that is flexible, tough, and waterproof. I find the crayoning technique creates a more even finish, avoids spills and over soaking.
Thanks so much ! Im just turning 70 ,and my life has been one built on useful tools, useful skills and good humor..finding your work is like coming home!
So glad you liked it
Used your recipe to re proof my motorcycle jacket - tested on a wet trip through Wales - completely sealed the jacket including the zips . I’ve used spray on , the Gold Label’ cream and a soak in tent proofer before - I can honestly say your bar wax was easier to use (unexpected !) and for the first time my jacket had no leaks at all despite the levee breaking weather .
That's made my day Jon. Keep the shiny side up & rubber side down 👍
Cheers mate, will give it ago.
EXCELLENT, perfect instructions and demonstration for my rainy home area. Thank you…from an old vet, retired in the US, hills of east Tennessee.
@@papajeff5486 So glad it helped!
Since watching this video I’ve become a cotton waxing madman. Just too much fun and practical.
Fantastic to be able to reproof a coat. So much better than modern synthetic fibres!
Thankyou so much for this post, using this method I knocked up a tub of wax using around an 1" 1/2" cut from a fat candle, mixed with 1/2 bottle of baby oil & half a tin of Barbour wax (I was very loose with the ingredient amounts) blitzed in a microwave then mixed thoroughly, so far, I`ve rewaxed 1 (Bomber style) waxed jacket & waterproofed a brand new canvas backpack, I used a hair dryer as it was my first attempt but, I`d have no hesitation going with a heatgun the next time just to speed things up. At a tenner for Barbour wax alone I`ve saved a fortune & I`ve still got half a (large 500g) tub left! Lovely.
Fantastic - well done 👍
This is the absolute best.
I've had my driza-bone for 32 years and it's still an awesome coat. I look after it.
They are excellent 👍
Just re waxed an old Barbour knock off and a real drizzabone over the weekend. Made the wax bar weeks ago, applied it this weekend. Fantastic, works like a charm and very satisfying to do. Now need to test in anger, but as I live in Scotland the opportunity is bound to present itself soon 😁 Would have done it sooner but had to wait till the wife was away so that I could do it in the kitchen, don't have a barn....sadly. Top tips and guidance from you, many thanks
Good call on the timing 😁. Since it's Scotland test incoming in 5, 4, 3.....
After some research, I have decided on refined cocoa butter in place of paraffin wax and I wanted to post a comment so others can consider this option. Here is my thought process; "traditional" waxes available use beeswax and tallow. Cocoa butter is harder than tallow and actually has a higher content of stearic acid! It's softening point is higher also and nicely compliments beeswax I think. Following the theme of matching plant to plant, I didn't want to use tallow on cotton. As a bonus, it's white. Probably don't want to use mineral oil with this mixture, the only suitable plant oils I can come up with that don't go rancid are flax and camellia(used on knifes). Linseed oil itself will weaken and destroy cotton if it is dried too slowly so that rules out raw. I plan to try to use high quality boiled and pine tar because my coat is black and losing color.
That's fascinating, good research! Do please let me know how it works? Hugh
Small update; I tested the safety of hand washing and reproofing. I picked a test area area 100mm square and using minimal pressure rubbed soap on and rinsed. I dried with a hair dryer and rubbed in 3 layers direct from a beeswax bar with liberal use of the hair dryer. The reason for this is that I have concerns about leaving paraffin on the surface as well as fully removing it from the pores.
The result; after washing I confirmed that I had compromised the surface layer of wax by dribbling water on the area and an adjacent area. There was no other negative consequences. After drying and waxing I confirmed that I had restored the water repellency. The beeswax alone is not a sufficient replacement for paraffin as it contains no excess oil and does leave a slight yellow hue. This was purely for testing.
The plan is as follows; I will hand wash the liner carefully. Then I will make a coat soap containing the soap form of the oil I intend to use in my final wax and lightly wash the whole coat lightly. Then I will formulate my reproofing wax and apply it and report back how all that went. The product I am most closely replicating is something called otterwax, the only plant based wax on the market.
@@thomasdurant7907 Fascinating stuff and a good technique. Do please keep us updated.
Tallow shouldn’t be used to make oil waxed canvas anyways but cocoa is even dumber. What a waste of cocoa butter. Paraffin, or even better, micro crystalline wax with some linseed oil is the best. Alternatively, you could use a bit of mineral oil but minerals oil stay liquid and doesn’t dry/polymerize like linseed oil or boiled linseed oil (boiled linseed oil dries faster due to the petroleum distillates that are added to it that evaporate and cause the oil to polymerize faster.
@@thomasdurant7907 yeah, the cacao buttere will be washed completely off the fabric witching the first wash as soap dissolve it.
I've been watching videos on how to wax a jacket and I find your technique to be the best and less messy. Most of the videos have you melting wax and "painting" the wax onto the garment then melting with a heat gun. Your method is more controlled on the amount of wax used. Thanks
I tried a number of ways and do find this one easier & cleaner
This also works for Fjällraven’s G1000 cloth. It is polyester 35% Cotton 65% but your “soft”- wax recipe works!
That's really good to know Pieter, thanks!
I have been a subscriber for quite a while now but recently introduced my OH as he wanted to rewax his driaza-bone coat. He made the wax last week and rewaxed his barbour this weekend. So easy to make and rewax. We are both very interested in this type of content and appreciate any that you publish. Thank you.
So glad that it was useful!
Great educational video plus good dialog and editing. Wish I'd seen this "lesson" before the "others" as it's been by far the best. Not simply re-waxing, but also how to make your own wax that is most suitable for your needs ...... excellent.
Thank you so much!
We live in our Driza-bones down here mate. Best jacket on the planet. Great video.
Indeed it is!I have one myself, really like it! Hugh
Your recipe is much simpler and just as effective as the others I’ve seen on this topic. Thank you from Alaska.
I'm really glad that you liked it - I'm guessing goot coats are vital in Alaska!
@@EnglishCountryLife I live on the coast where we aren’t that bad. Our summer highs are around 15 c and our winter highs are around -4 c. You get inland and the wrong jacket choice will kill you.
@@alexanderh.5814 That doesn't sound too bad where you are
Lovely! Great explanation. Really nice. I will need to wax mine for the first time, you vid is top!
@@MK-sq9vg Thank you!
I've just re-waxed my Barbour jacket and it's like new again! I like the point you made about it being a sustainable choice, especially significant given the recent media obsession with clothing that's kind to the environment.
I'm delighted! Thanks so much for letting me know. Hugh
Just picked up a Kiwi Backhouse jacket from a local Hospice charity shop for 18 quid. (A Barbour company) In the same colour as the Driza Bone coat shown here. It's in brilliant condition, and I'm looking forward to re-proofing it. Cheers for this video...
That sounds like a bargain!
It has been two years since you made this video and I have just discovered it. Great, practical ideas. I have an Australian Drover's coat that has lost it waterproofness. The commercial preparations to restore it are very expensive. Thanks, now you've shown me how put this coat back in service.
Love Drovers coats Robb - they are a great choice. Enjoy wearing it again!
I really like this video, I watched it some years ago but never forgot it, spent quite a while looking for it so that I can rewax a jacket for a Christmas present 😊 Thank you
I'm so hlad Abigail - thank you
What a well produced and informative video
Thanks Berny, I really appreciate the kind words!
Loved the video. No crap, good edit, nice audio. Will be using your "recipe" on my own jacket(s) in a few days. Cheers!
Awesome! Thank you!
This was super informative and exactly what I needed- thanks! I cant wait to wax my hat and my Filson cotton vest!
Glad it was helpful!
I just bought my first waxed canvas jacket from a second-hand online shop. Thank you for teaching me how to keep it in great condition!
You're welcome! I hope it gives many years protection to you!
By far the best video on how to re-wax your jacket! Great detail awesome narrative! Thanks!
That's really kind, thank you 😊
Thanks very much for the lovely walk though. I have an oil cloth bag, hat, canvass tarp, and my father's raincoat that could all do with a rewaxing. Thanks for making it look so straightforward!
You should save a fortune doing those yourself!
Excellent guide. Love your personality
Thank you!
I’m so glad you made the distinction between paraffin and beeswax for heavy vs. light weatherproofing. I live in Florida, and I tend to get caught in some pretty nasty, cats and dogs type thunderstorms at my uni. The breathable raincoat I bought was much more breathable and much less waterproof than I had hoped for, and I’m really looking for something that could survive practically biblical amounts of rain.
My Barbour is fantastic in downpours and super sustainable...but heavy. Right garment for the right conditions!
If it’s Biblical rain… I’d recommend a boat lol
@@robmarshallofficial 😁
"pouring cats an dogs"--? Sure You do not live in Buenos Aires, Argentina? SURE? Here, by the river, open to the ocean, when southeast wind appears, we prepare for the worst! (the saying is; "viento sudeste, llueve como peste" )(southeast wind, rains like hell) The "breathable" is not "waterproof"....If You can use the advice of a motorcycle rider.....(me)..: when buying, force with your mouth , and all the strenght of your lungs, some air troughout the fabric. If even some little air gets trough, it is NOT waterproof!
I’ve just finished re-waxing my cheap 60s knockoff Barbour riding jacket. I must confess I had washed it in the washing machine when I got it, not knowing the destruction I would cause I always vowed to repair it. I’m happy to say that after two hours with my grandfathers heat gun and about 150g of your soft wax recipe it has just got me through a Yorkshire deluge like it was nothing. Dry as a bone underneath. Thank you so much for the easy to follow instructions!!
That's made me really happy to hear Andrew, so delighted that it worked well for you!
Thank you so much 😊 , I've just waxed my 2 year old Barbour with their own wax, but I'll definitely be using your wax recipe and method next year, much appreciated
I'm glad it was helpful - it's saved us a kot of money!
I have a bunch of cans of Barbour wax and now I'm trying to figure out how to turn them all into bars! this method seems easier and cleaner than the conventional "sponge" method.
It's certainly easier for me!
Excellent! I already made some saddle soap and dubbing for my boots and other leather goods according to your recipes. Now, I think I finally have to re-wax my Barbour Beaufort jacket ;) I think I'll go with the softer wax.
I think unless you plan on wearing it in a thunderstorm whilst pushing through a horse bush that's a good choice 😁! Hugh
We live in WIsconsin in the US. My husband has a favorite coat that is cotton exterior shell with hood for blowing snow. He comes in soaking wet and cold. Thank you for this excellent method to waterproof this coat. I am appreciative of your shared knowledge! Thanks
You are most welcome Christine, do please let us know how it works out for you? Hugh
English Country Life will do🤓
thanks for the video! i got a waxed jacket at an estate auction that desperately needed reproofing, and i ended up spending more on wax than i did on the jacket. in the future, i'll make my own wax with your recipe!
It can be a silly price to buy
Thank you for making this video. I was looking for a recipe to use on my jacket and this is the first time I've seen someone actually say the ratio of ingredients. Most everything I found online just kept saying buy this and use it but I already have beeswax handy and want to use it.
Edit: correction you gave multiple recipes depending on application. Thanks again
I'm very glad it was helpful - it's always great to do things for ourselves!
Exact same situation for me!
I love my Barbour international Duke jacket.. best jacket I have ever had..I have also owned North mface Gore-Tex jackets, they’re fantastic, but they don’t look nearly as good as the old English style wax cotton jackets… Practical and they look great… And yes sustainable, the kind of thing you will hand down for generations… although I don’t plan on passing mine down 🙃I can’t wait to make my own cotton canvas camo jacket… Great video.✌️
That's brilliant Franz, thanks for the comment! Love to see the camo jacket when it's done. Hugh
Thank for unmystifying the wax. A similar product sells for around 15$ US. Here in America. For only a few ounces. Probably less then half of your bar..
You are spot on mate !!!
Thank you !!!
Glad it was useful Joe!
Greetings from Argentina, excellent video. I have used english waxed jackets for a long time in the Argentine countryside and this video is very useful. Regards.
Thank you Marcos, I hope it looks after your jacket well!
Very tutorial...i m a hunter and .I already make my own wax recipe..and it s better than fabrication...Greetings from Erdek, Turkey
Home made is always better and cheaper 🙂. Greetings from Lincolnshire!
I’ve become addicted to your channel after finding it yesterday. I’ve binged and it’s such good content and explained so well. So useful to have the UK detail. More, more, more requested from me please!
Thank you do much, that's really kind! If you like "hot sauce", you will enjoy one of the upcoming ones.
"First take 1.6Kg of chillies"
Hugh
@@EnglishCountryLife Have been involved in country pursuits for 50 odd years, have tried quite a few waterproof jackets and now wear my Barbours only (have seven), as you have said goretex jackets are very good but don't last, a big failing is a 2 layer bonded fabric with a seperate drop liner, friction from the liner over the shoulders and outside elbow area wears the goretex away letting it leak, l enjoy reproofing my Barbours and find it a good way to unwind! Have got a Barbour thornproof game bag that l bought new in 1980, whilst out shopping the other day another shopper offered my £100 for it there and then, it's still on my coat rack, can't get rid of an old friend!!!
@@clooperman3745 I love to hear that! How many other 40 year old bags are still going strong? Good for you!
Great content. Looking forward to more.
Thanks James!
In 2015 we made a trip to England and in a Cirencester, I found a John Partridge landowner jacket for 25 pounds. I convinced my husband it was a great jacket even though I was unfamiliar with companies in the UK and we brought it home. I have always wondered how I would take care of it and this is so fantastic to find this video of it. Also great to hear we can use the wax on canvas as now I am thinking of waxing the canvas covers for our winches, sails and windlass I am sewing.
Thank you so very much!!
Waxing was used by our sailors once to make "oilskins" 🙂. So glad you liked the video. Hugh
@@EnglishCountryLife Update: I made it last year and love it! Husband's jacket turned out perfectly - I'll be re-waxing soon.
Life got in the way and so I will be sewing the sailcovers this winter and feel confident with the wax. Thank you.
I just shared this video with another RUclipsr.
Cheers and thanks again!
@@sailorgirl2017 I'm so glad - thanks for the update
I think my coat is similar to yours,I bought it cheap,sowed it up,fixed the zip and rewaxed it,but I used the stuff they sell in a pot and I don't think I did it right.
Your method seems a much better plan 👍
Once again thanks for sharing.
You can always run a hot airgun over the coat then add more wax 😉
Finally rewaxed my Driza-Bone coat. I was surprised to discover it had lost it's waterproofing when working one day. Followed along with this video and hopefully it'll be ready for the upcoming scottish rainy season.
That should be a solid test 😁
Hi Tamra. They are chicken saddles - a welfare item for an active breeding flock. We have a short video to explain them
ruclips.net/video/bRxkXWjJ-Ns/видео.html
Yes please, more of everything! I've just made the dubbin.
Fabulous, I will try and do more over Winter
Thank you for a great idea, good sir. You are absolutely spot on regarding wax cotton. It's a timeless material. I've got a UK made Karrimor wax jacket, which is as hard as a cardboard and smells like wax from far. It's a jacket with character. And I like it for that. Separate respect for Driza-bone. I've got their wax hat. Another amazing garment with character. Kind greetings from Ukraine!
Thanks Vitalii - we hope you and yours are keeping safe!
I have Filson Tin Chaps for upland hunting in Montana. I use Johnson Paste Wax which is the same paste wax I use on my table saw. Been using that for over 30 years and it is simple, quick, and works for me.
If it works and isn't expensive, why not?
I have a Driza-Bone long coat, so I will be making your recipe and give it a well earned re-coat.
It really does work, & worth doing, they are superb coats
Thank you for this video! Coming at you from the Pacific Northwest in the United States and man we get a lot of rain! Haha my waxed canvas vest and jacket need to be rewaxed bad!
Hope it works for you!
I have an Aussie drover coat that has needed a bit of care for years... thank you for teaching me how to do it.
So glad it was helpful Mark! Claire reports that it works 😁
this is fantastic! I figured that different forms of wax (bar vs. cream/tin) rendered different finishes, but you just proved that theory wrong ❤. I like a shinier wax finish, and I thought I had to use a Filson's type wax to achieve that finish. But you clearly just got that finish with your bar wax.
So, I assume its the amount of wax?
My Fjallraven wax bars just absorb right into the fabric and leave no shine on the fabric, leaving me feeling like it's not really waxy enough to protect the fabric from rain.
Thank you for this video! I know it's 3 years old, but it's very informative.
Thanks Rebecca! You can get subtly different finishes by varying the oil to wax ratio - the more oil, the more easily absorbed it is. Adding very hard waxes like carnauba wax can increase the shine but a very high shine is tricky because it cracks as the garment flexes
@@EnglishCountryLife so, this may seem a silly question, but even if the wax completely absorbs into the fabric, the fabric should still be protected by the wax?
I just waxed a bag, thoroughly, with some Filson wax, and in parts it absorbed completely.
And thank you for your previous reply. It's very helpful! 😊
@@RebeccaSmith77 Absolutely, if all areas have a good covering, it will be waterproof, in fact having it absorbed prevents it wearing away easily
@@EnglishCountryLife thank you so much!!! ♥
I work in an outdoor clothing shop and sell a lot of plastic, which bothers me but it's my job. I don't wear much though, and what I have is up for sale. I'm in the process of going Ventile and waxed cotton. I DO get a very good staff discount though, and use it on Grangers G-Wax, which will absolutely do the job when applied to cotton or polycotton. It's easy to apply with a cloth as it's waxy (!), and doesn't need to be melted so it's safer than having hot wax around. I just stick the waxed garments in the clothes dryer for 10 mins on a high heat to settle the wax in and I'm done. I should add that there is no Mrs. Badger to get mad about what I'm doing with the dryer!
Great video. I like the comparison of wax types for specific jackets. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it - wax really shouldn't be expensive 🙂
Liked, Subscribed, and now am binge-watching your videos! Great content. Thank you sir from a northeast Louisiana Bayou man. Wet and rainy much of the year here, so I'm about to wax my Orvis barn jacket.
Thank you Tim 👍 Do let us know how your jacket works out? Hugh
I was going to do my LL Bean barn jacket that’s been hanging in my closet for years and years.
Love this , just for technique in application its given me the confidence to do my dogwalking coat.
Well worth doing now that it's turned so wet!
Just found your channel and I'm glad I did. Subscribed!!
Hi Daniel - welcome!
Thanks Hugh - another great DIY project to extend the life of what we own. We really like that you give alternatives in terms of recipes and tools too. Finally a use for the hairdryer languishing in the bathroom cupboard! Cheers, Deb and Geoff.
Thanks guys! I confess I'm not a hairdryer type....but they are useful to make an impromptu forge 😁
English Country Life now there’s another excellent idea...! Yes our hairdryer hasn’t been used since our daughters left home. I’ve come close to tossing it but was hoping it could be repurposed in some way - problem now solved!
I was so happy to see you'd shot a new video... This is interesting.. I have a recipe saved away somewhere. It says to paint it on with a brush. Warm liquid. I have a dry as a bone long horse riding coat to do. Thanks for the video. Take care. I'll be shooting a video of my version of thevre waxing recipe this month too.
I'll look forward to that! I find crayoning on then melting gives a very even finish, but if you get the wax liquid, it'll work!
Nice video! I didn't know about the mineral oil mix....here (Argentina) It is commonly used as "baby oil" and is somewhat cheap. Worth trying, surely! Thanks for the tip about that and the "hard wax" - "soft wax" recipes!!
It's often sold as baby oil here too, although that had a little perfume in it
Thanks. I really enjoy your practical solutions and techniques.
Cheers Paul 👍
Brilliant thank you. I have a Barbour which I have needed to do for a while and having seen your film now know exactly what to do! There is a particular pleasure from restoration. Robert.
I agree Robert, bringing something "back to life" is a great feeling! Do let us know how you get on when you try it? Hugh
Fantastic instructional video, thanks for sharing 👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
After many outdoor jackets with all sort of waterproof promises, I returned to a Barbour Beaufort classic and am protected from rain forever.
And it feels like putting armour on too!
I enjoyed watching that, and learnt something new today. Thank you 😃
Thanks Karen, I'm glad you enjoyed it!
The heat gun, hair dryer in my case, suggestion is excellent.
Thanks - it does make the job so much easier 😉
This is my next project! I have all ingredients to make it this weekend, last night I made some furniture polish with your formula and I'm pretty happy with the results, thanks for all your time and effort to make all this videos.
I'm so glad. I made a batch of this today for our daughter.
@@EnglishCountryLife Good man! I made some hand cream for my daughter using one of your recipes too! I'll get it to her this coming weekend and see what she thinks😁
@@bernardofernandez6138 Excellent, let me know?
Great video, I have some good leather and just acquired some light canvas to make a backpack for hiking, I wanted to wax the canvas and possibly the leather too but can only find a so called dressing for wax jackets here.
I experimented with paraffin wax and made waterproof cardboard out of a piece of the canvas, my next attempt was going to be trial and error with paraffin and almond oil but you have saved me the trouble.
Incidentally, sweet almond oil with bees wax, is a good treatment for wooden platters, it stops detergents breaking down the wood and obviously is a food safe mixture.
Excellent tip on the wooden platters that Chris - thank you!
Really interesting video, thanks! I’ve heard of people doing this with a iron by sandwiching the fabric between two sheets of greaseproof paper, placing an old towel on top and ironing on top of that. I’ve never tried that approach myself but was recommended by an old horsey lady who’d done it that way for years and is out in all weathers!
Thanks Aisling. I imagine that would work, but somehow I know that I would get wax on the iron (idiot that I am) 😁. Hugh
@@EnglishCountryLife The wax comes off a warm iron pretty easily. Imagine how I learned this. ;)
Happy i came across such a video. Looking to re wax my Ship John Wills jacket and then you made the distinction of heavy versus light wax. The jacket is already thick. So putting heavy wax again would make seem like it just needs to be re broken in
You can go lighter still with the wax - its all about proportions
Thank you so much for sharing this! I have a gatehouse stockman coat, so the NZ version of the cost in the video and it keeps me so dry when I’m riding. The only problem is it used to belong to my brother in law so it’s huge on me. I’ve been meaning to make myself a long cotton jacket and wax it but I wasn’t sure the best way to go about it. I normally buy the tins of Barbour wax but they can be very pricey. I’m definitely going to try your recipe!
Those stockman coats are amazingly good. Would love to hear about your own coat when you make it! Hugh
Surely you mean Backhouse...?
Great video! Thank you!
@@hadetmamma Glad you enjoyed it 🙂
great video, your instruction was so descriptive and precise. very helpful and interesting
Thanks Barry! I've just had to make a batch up for my daughter - still that's what Dads are for 😉
thx for the reciepe will try with my moorland need to ... never tried other product than the barbour one.. wil see..
Do let me know how you get on? Hugh
Thanks Hugh, now I realise that melting the wax first and applying it probably wasn't the best method. Certainly keeps me dry though!
It certainly works that way but I find the crayoning gives me a more even finish.
Well explained sir,but is it possible to applied during liquid condition with metal brush?
Definitely don't apply with a metal brush, it can damage the fabric. You can paint it on melted but many people apply far too much.
Another good quality and informative video, learning a lot watching your channel and adopting some of you methods. Currently on your dehydrating series. You certainly deserve more subscribers. Thanks again.
That's very kind Trev, thank you! Hugh
As always Hugh an excellent video, informative and fascinating...i have an old workhorse of a fake wax jacket that is going to get this treatment
Thanks Sean, it should be ideal for that. Do let us know how you get on? Hugh
Fab video again Hugh, hadn't even thought of re-waxing the jackets. You mentioned your soap making moulds....have you got any videos of your soap making? If not, it would be great if you get the chance to make one 🙂
Thanks Sali! I've done a basic overview of home soap making video, I'll pop s link below. Hugh
ruclips.net/video/Cr6haOeLY48/видео.html
@@EnglishCountryLife ah brill thank you, will have a look at it now.
Excellent content! I came here from the dubbin video was planning to watch the earlier ones until I found this first. I have a 22 year old oilskin duster that I bought new that has been my signature garment that I am never without. I have my own formulation, and a different climate, but I am always interested in other's opinions. Nobody around here knows what this thing I am wearing is!
I'm glad it was interesting. People "in the know" do choose waxed cloth
Thats a useful recipe. Been rewaxing Barbour gear for years. Wouldn't want anything else when pushing through blackthorn or bramble patches when ferreting a must have item in my book. Thanks for a great video its appreciated
Cheers! As you say, they are unbeatable for tough country jobs
Good video. I am thinking of doing it on a denim jacket :)
Interesting.. I've done a few heavy canvas (surplus) jackets - but never denim. Would enjoy hearing your results
Absolutely brilliant- thank you! Going to fix up my coat for all these COVID-19 walks in nature 👏
Thank you Ann! I have been very glad of that old Barbour with the recent rains! I hope your re-wax goes well! Hugh
Awesome tutorial! Thank you!
So glad you enjoyed it 👍
I wish I had seen this video before I recently rewaxed my Barbour. A much better and safer method than melting the tin of wax in hot water. I've got a second coat to do, so will definitely be using this method. Are there any tips on mending a small hole in the sleeve of a jacket?
Glad it was helpful. Sorry to say I'm not the best person to ask on mending
Great idea with the hotair gun! Thanks
Thanks Marco - it does make life easier 😉
Excellent as always. Thanks Red.
Glad you liked it Andy!
Excellent video. More like this please 👍
Thanks Pete, I'm toying with one on making dyes & stains (for free)!
Good video - will give it a go
Thank you
Where did you get that amazing thing you melt your waxes in? Like a solid sieve. Brilliant videos.
Hi! It's a double boiler , you can get them in specialist cookware places or... Amazon! amzn.to/3lymQ3m
Great video, I have subscribed. One question though. Im a beekeeper, what would the drawbacks be of using just beeswax with mineral oil, if any. Thanks.
Hi Steve, we used to be beekeepers too (until unfortunately Fiona developed a horrendous allergy). Anyway to answer your question, I find beeswax very hard and brittle. This is why it makes a brilliant polish as being hard, it takes a shine. On a garment I find it cracks. You can add more oil to the wax but it can end up feeling greasy because so much oil is needed. Adding a softer wax like paraffin can increase flexibility without greasiness. I'm sure there are other formulas that do work, so if you find one, let me know!
Another great video Hugh. One quick question, why not brush the wax on when it had melted? Cheers John. Have been thinking about a coat for winter for using around the small holding and now I know what to get, so thanks again
Hi John! Some people do it that way & I have in the past. The trouble I had was it was very difficult not to totally saturate the garment with too much wax. I also found it hard to get it even. For people with a steadier hand or better eye than I have, it's a valid approach, but for a klutz like me, the crayoning gives a controllable, even finish. Hugh
This is the best for the horses rugs. Neither Rain or snow makes the horses wet any more
That's great to hear, thank you!
Excellent job
Thank you 🙂
Excellent information
Thanks so much! Its really straightforward once you know how!
I've just bought a Barbour for £20 too and it's in pretty good condition. Think its about 30 years old from the style. Only thing is I love the colour and I know the wax will make it a lot darker. Am thinking of spraying it instead with waterproofer. Probably a terrible idea
I certainly wouldn't use a synthetic spray like Scotchgard. I doubt it would end well 😟. You can make a wax using pure white beeswax & paraffin wax & clear oil which will darken less, but it will darken - sorry
If there is still wax on the jacket then the waterproofer wont work. If the jacket is free of wax, maybe you washed it, then the waterproof spray will work ok but only for a short while. in my experience, not nearly as long as wax.
It's not something I would waste time on again.
Brilliant video, cheers.
Thanks Adnan!
Thanks sir,a very useful partnership
I'm glad it helped
Excellent video, I subbed
Welcome & Happy New Year!
Fantastic video well done . I have had some very strong smelling coats anyway to fix that? also they seem cold to the touch. Will this easily rub off on car seats etc. Tks simon from mo. Usa
Hi Simon, you can add essential oil to create a smell you like. It shouldn't rub off very easily - its a hard wax, but I wouldn't wear it in the car if it worries you
This is the best video I’ve seen on waxing a jacket. Being able to make my own wax to is great. Thank you so much for this video.
If you added a pigment, would you be able to change the colour of a garment and wax it. Or would dying it first then waxing be best?
I would strip the old wax first, dye, then re-wax Rob - it will go patchy otherwise
@@EnglishCountryLife thanks for that. How would you remove the wax? Is that possible as it’s wax
@@robmarshallofficial A hot wash with plenty of detergent will do it, then rinse well. You can do it in the washing machine but I fear gunking that up so I use a big garden trug and a scrubbing brush plus plenty of liquid detergent! Rinse well afterwards
@@EnglishCountryLife thanks for that. I appreciate the information.
Fine advice! It realy need information. Thank you. Like
Thank you Victor
Hi, thanks for the useful video. Curious if you know what’s in the Barbour tin, and also why you recommend parafin and mineral oil in addition to the beeswax? Have you tried your mixture as a liquid the way Barbour recommend? Thanks
Hi, No idea what's in the Barbour tin but there are only so many oils and waxes. Beeswax alone is very brittle & will tend to crack. Adding oil and paraffin wax creates a mixture that is flexible, tough, and waterproof. I find the crayoning technique creates a more even finish, avoids spills and over soaking.