How to strike a straight waterline on your boat
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- In his latest video, Lou shows us the shipwrights preferred method for striking a waterline on the hull of your boat. Subscribe for more.
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Stunning. You have given me the confidence to build my own little yacht tender
Thank you for showing us about boats. The more I watch your videos the more I learn about boats. I enjoy your videos.
Thanks for sharing
Roy
Although I appreciate the "old school" approach, watching the process makes me want to buy Louis a rotary laser level!
Absolutely. I use it for tile layout and it would be the perfect solution. Also make it a one-man job.
🤣🤣🤣
Thx for keeping the "old paths & good way" of boatbuilding alive, Lou.
Down in the lower ChesBay, when deadrise boats were regularly being built, usually out of good grade fir, spruce, bull pine, and the bottom planks had 1/8" - 1/4" gap, (depending upon the size of boat), to permit swelling, but avoiding cupping, compressive-set of the planks & their seams, which could cause them to crucially distort & weaken, or put undue/dangerous stress on the bottom fastenings. Her bottom seams would be paid/puttied with soap, or, in later years, beeswax,( toilet bowl seal). She would then be launched & kept pumped until her bottom planks swelled-up, sufficiently, that she needed pumping, but once or twice a day. This usually took from several days to a week, depending on the season & water temperature.
Meanwhile, there would form a scurf line upon her hull that would give a true working reference to the height & true shape of her waterline. Of course, this initial launch would be in the sheltered, still waters of a cove, or marina basin. After her bottom planks swelled-up, to where her ingress of seawater was minimal, then her engine would be aligned with her shaft, and her fuel tank filled. Then, she would be hauled out, & the aforementioned scurf-line used as a true guide to striking her waterline. Thereafter, would occur her christening and trial of her engine, reduction gear / clutch, rudder / steering gear.
However, others would christen their vessels during her launch & swelling period. This was true of most of the 30'- 45' "open" boats, used for crab potting, tonging, trot lining, haul-seining. The larger size boats above 45'-50' would usually have but one launching & the waterline struck by experience, consultation, & extrapolations from similar sized boats previously built by that boat builder. Adjustments to the height of the waterline would be made at her first routine haul-out.
Nowadays they use a laser to get that waterline and a computer to calculate its position, but in the process they loose this awesome method which is very ingenious and applicable to other things as well.
It's good that you're preserving these methods and teaching them to us!
You're an excellent teacher.
Very very Nice job as always!!!
Very interesting!!!
True craftsmanship at work. Screw a Lazer level! Thanks for the video
Here in the Pacific Northwest where boats generally stay in the water year 'round, except for the haul-out every 1-2 years for bottom paint and new zincs, there is a very easy method -- simply chuck the boat in the water long enough for a scum line to form and work from that! Works every time. Seriously, Lou's suggestion is a great tip and for those without convenient scum lines to refer to, looks easier than any other methods that are around.
That is a really unique little boat. It seems to have dense ribs along the interior width bent from the gunnels to the bottom center. I can see that they are quite thin given the thickness of the strips in the gunnels. Wish I could see plans for this little dinghy. Would love to try and make one. The rope along the upper ledge is a great touch too.
Bravo, vous êtes vraiment de très très bon artisans.
Elles sont super vos vidéos, je vais utiliser votre méthode pour construire ma petite embarcation. Merci.
When using a laser the boat has to be perfectly level so the boat may have to be moved into position. Then you may have to move the laser a number of times to reach every position on the waterline. I find it considerably more difficult and time consuming.
!!! great !!!!
+Tips from a Shipwright I just tried to do a Penguin using a laser. I thought it was great until I did the second side and it was no where near the other side. I'm going to do this in the morning. Thanks! You guys are great.
The boat don't need to be level to use a laser , just aline the laser light line with your marks. But instead of using bow and stern marks, you will also need a mark amidships. Raise, lower, and twist the laser line on a tripod til it falls on all marks. takes about two minutes depending on laser assy adjustments. No levels, tapes, strings or boards, just flip boat over and line up laser.
Many people don't like the laser line because they don't understand how it can be manipulated.
But it's nice to see the older ways of doing things, kinda keeps you humble and appreciate the knowledge before the new technology and power tools
KORITFW
What is the reason for a water line on a boat?
@@mazdarx7887 very true. I took me a long time to explain that to the "older" boatbuilders in my company. Doing it with a laser is very easy and fast.
GRANT! Get out! Funny!!!
This is just awesome! Thanks.
2:18 - DON'T BLINK, LOU!
Excellent technique and great timing. My boat goes into the shop this week to do exactly this! Except that she's on her trailer, has no transom and we just have to lower the forward section of the stripe. What's a little added difficulty? Thank you!
learn a lot by watching this man's video expecially how to put a water line Street.
I wonder how he says the word mock.
i have a number of old school ship and skiff building books and everyone has a different way of painting your bootstrap. something i'm curious about, the moment to trim an inch was based on your man and cargo. is this a heavier anticipated load than normal for the strap, or is the bootstrap based on a normal weight load.
Solo, I'd try string between two bungees hooked on the battens.
Is this the plimsoll line? The legal line for maximum load?
O.k.so I'm giving my 15' Winterhawk a beauty treatment...exsisting water line,do I tape over it do the bottom paint then topsides and water line last?Should I use topside or bottom paint for the stripe?
hello, i have a queston, i have to repaint my fibreglass tri hull this summer, should i use just reg. marine paint or order your brand?
If Popeye was a real main, I imagine him like this.
Was wondering if i can stain my wood before i I put on the fiberglass and epoxy? Does stain effect the epoxy?
I'd say, yes it would affect 🙂
Does a waterline have a purpose or is it just to look nice?
What'd they do before tape existed?
Why we should know the level?
Don't forget to account for the earths curvature
That beats the system I used by a long sight. I'm a convert.
Making simple marls, and 'walking' the string around with helpers to mark it all the way around seems to me to be the simplest method.
I know it's not old school, but what about a laser level?
Was my first thought as well but he mentioned that the boat isn't leveled (@1:30). If you want use the laser, the boat has to be leveled.
+Capitano Americo This raises another question, how do you know when or how to level a boat? His method of floating a trimmed boat in calm water and measuring down, port and starboard, at the transom and marking these with the bow gives a plane. I have done this often of boats up to 50 ft.
+johnffmitchell Your method makes sense to me.
Nice method, but the way you apply the tape will give nods.
Why not just snap a chalk line?
This time I will do it manually with the help of Woodglut designs.
Puedes marca con laser tanta historia
Be hard to turn a ship upside down
too complicated. Try it the easy way. Instead of using jr. (lol) use a trash can fill it up with water. 1 gallon equals 7 lbs. (jr weighs 300 lbs so you"d need 42 gallons of water i proper placement. Let the boat set in the water over night. The surrounding water will mark the boat when you take it out to mark a new water line. You can compensate here or there for any deviation. cheers salty seaman.
Why do you need a waterlines?
"The purpose of a load line is to ensure that a ship has sufficient freeboard (the height from the water line to the main deck) and thus sufficient reserve buoyancy." en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waterline
What's a mock? LOL!!
This method may be the way you do it Lou but is completely useless to the home builder that lives a few miles from the nearest slipway. It is also manpower and equipment intensive. It also needs a transom! There is no way I could use your method. First, getting my CLC Skerry to the sea and back is half a days work. The Skerry is a double-ender for a start so your plank across the transom is a non starter. Then I'd need planks of wood that I don't have and 3 people to mark a waterline? I don't even have a workshop! What I do have is a spirit level and lots of small bits of plywood to get the boat level. Then I fill a bucket with water and position it so the water level is where I want the line. Suck the water into a long, clear plastic tube and where the water settles in the tube is where you make your mark. Just go round the boat, making marks. It's simple; can all be done on your own, inexpensive and fast. So long as the boat is set up on trestles right then the line will be spot on. As I work outside, a laser line doesn't always show too well and anyway, I don't have one but tried with a friend's. A waterline drawn with a water level is the cheapest and easiest way to go.
I would use a laser
Funny
AHHH HAAAHAAAHAAaaaaaaa
Batta boards.
Try to do it with Stodoys plans :)
laser? no need.
a easier way to do this would be to use a laser level ,
Grant, get out
Yambolic you are correct but everyone will follow the master as his presentation is correct and yours is really bad