What’s really funny is that I just came up from my shop, after cutting all of the pieces from the original design on Sawdust, only to open the fan and find out - it’s not 20 inches. So I spent 35 minutes taking the fan completely out of the hosing, and mounting it inside the box, just like you did. Now I just need to add the round cut out...great timing in finding this video, thanks.
Tony M - you’re not the only one! I did the same thing. Built that box from the original design as well, and my box fan was too big to fit. Glue, nails and screws....and enuf swear words that Hubby came running out to the garage asking what the matter was. Had to pry one side off before the glue dried just to salvage at least half the build. Already knew that I would need to build a shroud as well and accommodated my measurements to fit that shroud out of quarter inch hardboard.... so instead of this fan working overnight to clean my garage from all my glitter (er sawdust), I have to wait until tomorrow.
Great video - and THANK YOU for the plans! I built mine this afternoon. Also made an inner "shroud" for air flow improvement and had to remove my fan's frame as well, just did the same thing you did. Mine was a nasty old box fan I've had for years but still works! Thanks for this video and the plans!
I had the sunlight shining just right through the windows in my bedroom and was AMAZED at the amount of dust in the air....really CREEPY. I broke a window the other day in my bedroom...and the light "went on"...I decided to BLOW the dust outside through that hole. I put a small 9 inch fan right up against the window (I ordered on Ebay for $17) where i broke it...having duct taped it to about 9" diameter. I put the fan blowing OUT through the window and have a 12" filter behind it so it is sucking the dust into the filter on its way outside. I also bought some black stury filter material in case critters decide to come in..and will put that OUTSIDE the window. I wanted some airflow all the time and will let this go continuously...there is little noise. I also will design something like you have for the whole house...great video. You sell yourself short...most people are idiots.
Looking at you're air cleaner video like new design but would like to know where baffle is placed in relation to fan blades hard to see in video thanks keep posting videos
Something I learned in R&D, a time comes when a design must be taken from the engineers and sold to a customer. There must also be a balance between cost and functionality. Things can always be improved.
You could get a fairly significant improvement in the fan's thrust (and suction) by placing it in a circular duct whose interior diameter is only just a little larger than the swept diameter of the fan. It would also operate more quietly.
and even more by using the vortex the fan would create in such a circular duct to generate double force. so basically using a circular duct makes it more efficient because the air coming out of the fan can rotate freely the way it wants and doesn't get to much turbulence due to inbalance in the shape, a square shape would cause a lot of inbalance since the rotating airflow from the fan would need to make angles of 90 degrees which is inefficient and creates huge amouns of turbulence. there also indeed is a small part which comes directly from the changing of the volume of air since in the places where it goes into the fan and just behind it that would also generate a sudden increase and fall generating a lot of turbulence, however on the contrary something is also true. the bigger the area of the filters you use the less friction they give, and that would be a rather significant loss. so we should want to keep the parts where the filters are mounted nice and big and square in the shape of the filters. but to optimize the airflow and not waste the energy from the vortex to turbulence the fan itself should be inside of a circular pipe around 3 times the length of the fan, but more is possible. and to counter the vortex twist before it hits the square part and to convert that twist into a airflow and pressure boost we should add fins in the circular shape just a while after the fan, not to far, not to close, to far and you lose energy, to close and you also lose energy in pulses, in general keeping around enough space for another propellor in between should work well. those fins should be aimed in the opposite direction of the fans blades. if you first measure it and calculate it you can calculate the perfect angles and such. but right now we can just make them the opposite angle of the propellor blades, or since we run it at a low speed and pressure we can make them less steap and more in the direction of how we want the flow of the wind already, that way we can be sure they aren't to steep and so they won't cause a restriction in air flow, and ofcource these blades are connected to the outside instead of inside, since this is a low pressure and speed device we shouldn't go all the way to the middle, we should also use as thin as possible blades for this, since they don't need to move anyway and only need to steer the wind. while just simple blades are enough, if we want to be sure of high efficienty we can make those blades bend and slightly go through straight with the desired wind direction until the air exits the circular conduit. now that should when done right double the airflow and/or pressure for such a fan when you run it on the same RPM which would greatly decrease noice and also decently decrease power usage. but we forgot one thing and that is where the filters are. this system has one filter in front of the fan and a few behind it. this means that we should add some extra space in front and behind of the fan to make that transition from a big square to a smaller cylindrical conduit, since the airflow isn't to big in that system the intake side doesn't need much of such a smoothening transition, it is just to prevent the turbulence from that 90 degree angle. so we can make it around 45 degrees or less steep, with one exception which I will discuss later in this. on the exit you want it slightly bigger to make sure the transition from round to square, and from small to big are smooth so it won't cause turbulence. both on the inlet and exit this can be done with a specialized plastic or metal part, but it could also be done with duct tape, with wood if you are capable and willing to finish it decently, or with a material like tempex, which is probably the most simple option, you can add some tape or plastic over it to make sure it doesn't get damaged to much over the years, but it should keep up just fine since it has been used more often in such things, just make sure to cut it with a hot wire or such or to use something like a hot plate or hot air gun to make it smooth where it will touch the air. bare tempex also brings a advantage and draw in one since it likes to accumulate a static charge, and a strong one, when you keep blowing wind past it. this static charge will work as a filter for big and insanely fine particles, however it will only filter around the outsides close to the tempex, luckily due to the vortex most dust will be in the outsides first, however remember we canceled that vortex out to get more efficiency, so now the dust will spread more even through the system. luckily this tempex part is close enough to the cylindrical conduit that most dust will still be on the outsides, and on the top we should mostly see specifically the super fine dust which normal filters won't capture making it a nice extra filter step. but there was a draw, and the draw is that the air also gets a slight electric charge, this means it will be atracted to it as well which causes some friction, luckily this frinction is insanely small, especially at these low speeds, so the friction due to this should be comparable to the friction due to the inconsistency in the wood, but there is another draw, and that is that tempex likes to stay static, there isn't really a easy way to rapily make it non static, which means it might be hard to clean of all the dust from it. again all over the draws it has are mostly draws to the pros, and the prose can be quite nice, so using tempex for such a low speed system would be great. but I said I would come back on something and that was for the inlet, right now we altered the inlet to prevent losing airflow, however we can actually use that same size difference with a altered inlet smoother to gain extra windspeed. to do this we just need to make some kind of duct like a ducted fan. this way it will work like a airfoil, this will increase the tota airflow and will also prevent some of the air which tries to come back using the outsides of the fan. but again we don't want to many sharp edges in such a system, so just around the edge of that duct we again add something to even it out and prevent those sharp angles. normally that wouldn not be a problem if the size difference was big enough. but right now the square is only a little bigger than the cylindrical conduit, so we get more efficiency by also including that smoothening.
Mr. Franklin I will put it crudely. Verbal flatulence ( the guy who called your project mediocre ) is another one of them internet trolls. Who consistently speak out of their behind. Out of all the human inventions we have few have come from geniuses. It has always been a “ mediocre , average guy” needing to accomplish something that finds a solution to a problem. I love watching your videos always something to learn from you.
That "internet troll" gave him the motivation to upgrade his air filtration system to excellence. The first "mediocre" version was awesome when you have little time, limited energy and a busy life to live as It beats not building anything at all, but the second version is way more efficient. This is why freedom of speech is so important, it may create baseless "Verbal flatulence" as you call it but exposure to it pushes creative people to outdo themselves.
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 Bill Gates said he would always hire lazy people as they will find a faster more efficient way of doing something because they don't want to put forth the effort. (Paraphrasing)
Franklin, you're doing a great thing there. I don't have time or money for a fancy air filter, so I taped a 20" filter to a box fan. Big difference in air quality! I applaud you for upgrading yours for your own health. I will too, when I can. But, I urge you not to listen to those negative people out there. That's a kind of pollution that needs it's own kind of filter 😉
@@MAXAREUOS *bump* I had to comment, because you have explained adversity and its usefulness in human growth and learning. I just really appreciate seeing this in the world. Thanks :)
I got around the square box vs. round blade issue by using a duct fan (16" dia.). It moves about 650 CFM through my shop and is quieter than the box fans I used to use.
Good question. I've actually done some research on this. The best solution is to get a really efficient fan, like a squirrel cage fan. Those things can really move some air, but unless you can salvage one from somewhere, you're going to pay. But, that's not what you asked. Based on my research, if I had two box fans, it would be much more efficient to use them separately - increasing the surface area of your filter materials by 100%. Putting the two fans in series (one in front of the other with both blowing in the same direction) will get you about 25-30% increase in efficiency, but you'll still be stuck with the same filtering surface. How all that works out mathematically is way beyond me, but it would appear that two fans working separately would be more efficient.
Excellent job. I’d buy something like this. If I could also give you a couple pointers you may appreciate... Instead of using multiple 1” thickness filters you may want to go for a 4”. A 4” filter can provide the same cleaning ability as multiple 1” but a single 4” actually allows for more airflow than a single 1”. While 4 one inch filters would have about 5 times the pressure drop as a single 4”.
Agreed. But wouldn't that really impact the cost? Remember this is for a wood shop, so I think the gain in efficiency would be offset by the increased cost.
FranklinWoodWorks Well because there is less pressure drop you can filter the same amount of air with less electrical cost. The motor doesn’t have to fight so hard. Although because the airflow will be higher at the same speed setting it will draw more electrical current. So it depends on how you’re running it. The filter cost would be less. Just for a quick comparison I found “Aerostar” brand filters on amazon. A MERV 11 1” is $5.55 and the MERV 4” is $7.71.
Since the airflow is higher you could run it less and then you’d save on electricity with the same amount of filtration. Likely with how cheap the electricity is on this you’d just run it the same and it’d filter quicker. I’d imagine the money saved on filers might offset the electrical cost. Although I might be even more inclined to this since I can get the filters wholesale for about half price. 🤫
Good Morning, I am writing to thank you for sharing your ideas on you tube. I just watched your video answering questions and responding to the snarky comments some feel free to post from the cover of social media. I am retired from a profession in which I valued very much the willingness of others more highly placed in my profession to have a conversation with me about an issue I was facing. Without that connection my many years of serving the public would have lacked valuable assistance. I agree with your comments about the woodworking community and their and your willingness to help. I am a hobby woodworker fortunate to have a shop and tools. It has been a godsend during this time of isolation. I am in the middle of making a shop air cleaner of your design and will be cutting a shroud for the fan as you described.
I think your right but would the box begin to swing slightly from the breeze it creates or centrifugal force? I'd prefer that box being secured if that happens.
I was impressed you chose to see if it could be done 'better' and have subscribed. It's often difficult to accept improvements are possible in our own inventions - I suffer from this!. And there's also the question of perceived gain versus resource expenditure. BobUK.
Me too, but there is a lot of turbulence in the corners. The baffle is supposed to help with that, I’ve been told. Not sure what the big box accomplishes. Might try it and see. As for the mediocrity comments, 80 years on the rock has taught me that perfection is in very short supply. Make something that works and get on with it; we’re burning daylight here.
Stuck a filter on my dehumidifier. Think I'll stick one on my box fan too, just run it when I'm not home.....copd ... btw pretty sure the Correct quote is"religion is the opium of the people", Karl Marx .
I taped a furnace filter to a 20” box fan as a temporary air filter until I can build a unit like this. It worked but burnt out the fan the first day, so I am a little apprehensive to build a unit like this.
"Geroff me, human!" (Cat in the last few seconds) Also, as far as trolls go, ask to see their projects. I see few content creators who talk smack, where as the anonymous masses never stop.
The old fan box was cool, the new one is better yes. The best way is to have what's called a "square to round" behind the ran. Round attaches to the fan, and square at the filter base. A square to round is a sheet metal shape that is the best way to transport air from a square opening (filterbank) to a round opening (fan Inlet). You basically replicated that, so with the tools that you have, you cant do better than you did. This is just my professional knowlege as an HVAC sheet metal fabricator. Awesome job! I wish we had one for our shop. Plenty of metal dust flying around!
I am an up and coming woodworker with a garage for a shop. I watched your video with great anticipation. You have created a cost effective; quiet; and efficient filtering system. Well done! P.S. Do you a new set of plans for the update that you made? If yes, may I obtain the plans, please?
I don't have any plans for version 2. But, the dimensions for the pieces will be based on the internal span of the box and the design of the particular fan you use. I bet you can do this.
This is a great jump off point for making a filter that functions well and is actually decorative or that matches your taste in interior design...well done my friend...
Great video. I enjoyed the original also. I have a "store bought" air scrubber, but I'm building one like yours for two reasons: 1. Two are better than one and 2. I like to build things! Also, concerning the negative comments you get, just remember the internet has enabled passive-aggressive individuals a platform to feast upon. I am in the group that enjoys your videos and want you to keep up the good work. I may learn something, I may not. No harm either way.
Lloyd you and I would likely be good friends / neighbors, no harm in learning is a good and constructive position in life. Iv'e been doing woodwork for 55 years and continue to learn things everyday as well as make plenty of mistakes. But I would correct what you so nicely said " passive-aggressive" no no not passive in any way but just down right aggressive arrogance coming from the opioids of their own prideful brain cells. Hey I'm just saying! lol
Seems like your filter works great. Here is a comment about fans (as opposed to centrifugal blowers). They hate back-pressure. The way to improve flow is to increase the surface area of the filters. But it would be bulky and more difficult to build, etc. Thanks for the video. I think this represents the best that can be achieved easily with a box fan.
Great set of videos between the original and the "even better" version. Combined with the link to the complimentary plans make this one of the best DIY how to packages I've come across - you've earned a Subscriber!
And curious based on your experiences using your DIY shop air filter, how dirty does the exhaust filter get compared to your #1, #2 and or #3 intake filters? Where's most of your dust being captured?
Since I don't have your skillset nor the tools how much would you charge to built two of them? I have 2 children with asthma and this could really help out. I'm in Phoenix, Arizona
What you need are HEPA grade filters in a system that works throughout your home. My project will be annoyingly noisy in a home setting, and the shipping would be cost-prohibitive. I think you should check into getting a whole-house air purification system added to your HVAC system. It will be more effective and cheaper in the long run.
love your ideas! I lack the skills necessary to create things that look nice. I am a therapist, with dogs, a cat, new wife and I need to figure out some way to better filtrate my air, I do love your ideas! Thank you, Bob
Would it be better to use round ducting and round filters? It seems that when you force air to go from a square housing to a round opening turbulence would ensue. With a round system you could also recess the fan a bit into the ducting so its quieter, especially if there was sound absorbing material lining the ducting. Pot growers battle noise this way apparently, wanting to hide the fact they are using fans to exhaust air.
Well it would be, but then I wouldn't have been able to build t out of scrap. Remember, this wasn't about the best design possible, it was about the best design possible with what I had on hand
This may be a dumb question but . . . You have 2 filters on one side of the fan and one on the other. Which side are you drawing into and which is the outflow?
If you haven't seen it, watch my video (shop lighting upgrade) that will show you why I use the lights I have. There are so many great options out there now, but I think I was able to save many $$ with the approach I took.
Nice improvement. However, the complex rafters are outstanding dust resting points. Suggest you get some kind of ceiling with less complex geometry to keep dust from hiding there. Or, leaf-blow the joints occasionally and let gravity do its work.
Btw I saw your video titled questions about the air filter. And the device will work. That's a definitive my friend. Just look at Smart Air's DIY air filter system. Just pop on an activated carbon filter and you will be capturing fumes as well. It won't be very efficient but it will do its job.
Thanks for sharing. You are thinking outside the box and sharing with others. That puts you pretty high on the list of contributors to the common good. How can anyone complain about that. I'd encourage you to invest $150 in a particle meter from Amazon so you can tell how effective your system is. The meters are getting better and less expensive over time. A $150 meter might not be super accurate but it will let you compare the dust particle counts of the shop before you start working to counts with and without your filter system after you start working. Having an objective measure like that makes it easier to home in on an effective solution. My shop air particle count is usually 90 less than the air outside the shop. A meter made finding solutions possible. The smallest most dangerous particles are too small to see so, without a meter, you can't tell if you are filtering them or just keeping them aloft. You need at least a MERV 11 filter for the system to be effective. The good news is that you can flow around 500 cfm through a 1" MERV 11 filter with a $20 box fan. Using a cheap MERV 6 or lower filter as a prefilter will make the good filter last longer without cutting the flow rate down very much.
@@SW-zu7ve I don't believe you can buy an effective air cleaner for $50. A particle meter is worth the investment for anyone who wants to take healthy air seriously. The particles that are most dangerous to your health are too small to see so without a meter you are just guessing. For example, I bought a discount air filter that was rated as MERV 12 (relatively high filtration efficiency) to save some $$. I tested it and it was filtering at closer to a MERV 6 filter which essentially passes 95% of the most dangerous particles straight through. It still got dirty and filtered the big particles but those aren't the ones that get deep into your lungs. If he uses a MERV 11 or equivalent filter then this system will effective. However, a meter is great for figuring out what does and doesn't work for mods to dust collection ports or to see if your dust collector filter is cleaning the air or actually making it worse which is the case for many types of filter bags. A meter is cheap insurance (awareness) for a slow killer. Long term wood dust exposure isn't much different than smoking. Over time it has very similar effects.
@@markw3598 And what verbal flatulence Mark? Did you even read my comment? Do you even know what I was commenting on? Do you even know who I was commenting to? Anyway I think you just trolled me.
@@shophacks Where did I say 50 dollars gets you a good air cleaner? I said ADD 50 dollars meaning to the 150 you are saying to spend. So 200 dollar will get you an adequate air cleaner.
You're on the right track. If you look at the engine fan on a motor vehicle, all the most efficient systems, whether mechanical or electric, have a shroud around them. This way, the air is "directed" to the fan blades. More air movement with less energy expended and less noise.
Looks like the upgrade is worth it. I wonder if part of the noise reduction is because you replaced the metal motor mounts, leading to less vibration transmitted. Good job.
Lol you got rid of your "I can't hear you" excuse with the wife. Good video. The only big way to improve air flow now would be putting a stator to force the air movement straight through the box.
You need to put the baffle right at the edge of the blades, it should be as close to the blades as possible, putting it behind or in front as you did, kills the efficiency of the fan.
If you look carefully at 2:44, you can see that the blades are in fact, right in the center of the baffle. The camera angle may be misleading. What you see about one inch behind the blades are the motor mounts. The one inch spacers I talked about in the video is what allowed me to put the blades where they needed to be. Apologies if all of that was confusing. It's difficult sometimes to write a script explaining things since in my head I know what I did. That last sentence was probably confusing too.
Richard, the difference is astonishing. I plan on doing a "shop update" video as a followup on some of my projects, and I'm going to include the improved dust filter. And, you have no idea how much I appreciate your support of the channel.
It would probably work better with an older Box Fan from the mid 80's or earl 90's since cheap box fans at that time had stronger motors and better pitch in the blades.
Excellent job! I am going to use one for my paint booth...spraying latex paint so not worried about any explosion factor....he he...well maybe. Anyway, thanks for the updated video. And I really like your beard! Nice kitty cat too...ya know they always want attention when your busy doing something.
Very nicely done. Did using 3/4" ply make it too heavy? Wondering why you didn't use 1/2"? (not suggesting you re-make it with 1/2", just wondering for those of us planing to build one)
Hey Franklin I wanted to discuss designs with you. I am trying to make a cheap yet efficient and powerful filter that would give clean air to an entire house floor. But the machine has to be portable. I am having problems with fan selection and prospective noise reduction.
You are speaking way above my expertise. It would seem to me, that to filter the air on an entire floor, you would have to move a massive amount of air. There are some powerful fans out there, but they are very noisy. I would try to find a commercially available unit that does what you want, reasearch it, and see if you can figure a way to DIY.
Something I've often wondered when I watch people install air cleaners - is there any particular reason to always mount them right up under the ceiling? Does this not potentially keep the dust particles suspended in the air longer, compared to mounting it closer to the ground (under a table that's open on both sides for instance) where the airflow would be helped by gravity to keep the flow of particles going downwards?
It's those dust particles suspended in the air that are bad to breathe. IMHO, right at head level is the best place for them, but the least convenient.
I didn't, but I relied on Matthias Wandel to do it for me. He experimented and found that the baffle should be just slightly forward of the fan. I mounted mine where most of the blade is slightly forward of the baffle.
Now if you simply would have figured out that taking it in through one hole is not efficient You should have at a minimum made two openings in the box and drawn air from two sides simultaneously This will double your opening size, remember you're trying to move as much air as possible, you're not trying to create a vacuum or high pressure air coming out the other side. So the least amount of resistance it can encounter will make it as quiet as possible.
I agree with everything you said. However, what you described was not what I was trying to create. Using your vision, I would have two options: 1. Use really good filters (expensive) and have to replace them all after most projects - especially where there is a lot of sanding, or 2. Use cheap filters and blow dusty air back out of the unit. My design doesn't have a massive air turnover rate, but what comes out is clean, all while using cheap filters. It fits the job of cleaning the air in my small shop, and doesn't break the bank in filters.
Sometimes 'mediocrity' is a function of the budget... more money=less mediocrity..LOL..!! I will be building one similar to this very soon. I really like the idea of the baffle around the fan in that it closes up the corners. I also plan on installing an exhaust fan through the side of my shop so when the weather is nice I can open up my overhead door and let that exhaust fan do the job, along with a filtered fan of some type. I might just build a box for the exhaust fan with some filters and combine both ideas, but not sure about that at the moment. I know that the fine sanding dust is not good at all for our lungs and even the little dust collector on sanders just doesn't capture near enough of that fine dust. I know...I cough way too much already so I really need to do this. Thanks, Franklin, for the video.
awesome job brother i have a similar setup out of cardboard this was done so neatly and professionally you gotta be smart to make that. lol be nice to your cat
The filter fan is a great idea. Increasing efficiency is a great idea when noise is to be controlled. I have found out that using a swirl pattern fan blade with a variable speed motor controller works even better. Because the blade shape is a swiel it cuts the air just so smoothly that even at high speed the noise is very low. Just saying. Sorry that I stole your ideal and ran with it. Good day too.
Don't apologize for improving this thing. I'm flattered that you think the basis is a good idea. I'm not too proud to have someone school me (as long as they are nice about it).
Great concept, thank you! Adapting it to a remodel work environment in my 1949 basement (major dust production work outside or in barn). My plan is use a 2 inch MERV 8 on intake side & a 1 inch MERV 13 on exhaust port; working w/ insulation, minor drywall, & carpet removal. Scanning comments below my general impression is that filter choice & number is based on cost + desired filtration quality, true/false?? On the issue of mediocrity: my observation is that there may be some misunderstanding concerning what can be accomplished w/n the confines of mediocristan in contrast to extremistan; I suggest perhaps some below re-read (or just read) their copy of N.N. Taleb's, The Black Swan, so all involved in that (dialogue) communicate from a common level of understanding. Warning: THINKING REQUIRED. Again, that you for great video, great thoughts!!!
You, sir, have won the comment of the month award. Folks that subscribe to my channel seem to have figured me out well enough to know that what you see me making is generally the first time I've ever made it. No testing, no rehearsal, what you see is what you get. That being said, my goal in all of my videos is not to show you that absolute best way to do something, or the best design, or the best anything (although some of the titles may lead you to believe otherwise). It's to show the viewer something new I've discovered, or a different way to do an operation, or to make something yourself (tools, jigs), saving a ton of money while accomplishing the same thing. I also never publish plans. Although the Sawdust Maker made plans for this original build, if I look at plans, it's only to see how a thing is made. I make the dimensions my own to fit my needs. I expect most DIYers would want to do the same. Plus, I want to inspire others to use their brain, think outside of the box, and get creative. Thank you for your encouragement - it was well received, and sorely needed.
Great video! The best way would be to mount the fan and motor inside the center of a cylindrical duct with about a 1/8 to 1/4” clearance between the tip of the fan blades and the inside diameter of the duct. You may need to check to see how much deflection happens to the fan at higher speeds and take that into consideration when creating that clearance. A ducted fan will be the most efficient for an axial fan setup like the one you built. I use a squirrel cage blower which has a more positive displacement than that of an axial fan and tends to be even quieter. Noise from the fan blades means that there is turbulence or surge (back flow) which equals loss. Never settle for mediocrity!
@@koolkid1234ism no, actually. The greater surface area allows for a proportionally greater amount of filtration as air circulates and the life of the filter. I actually use the 4" and don't see a need to change them after nearly 3 months. While the box fan with a 1" in the same garage needs changed already.
Interesting build but I'm a bit confused as to what the unit does. Are you just filtering the air flowing through the box? Most other dust collection units I've seen on YT are attached to some machine that creates the dust. Second, why the need for so many filter slots? Is it that one filter does not catch enough of the dust?
It's not a dust collector - I have that attached to all of my tools with the exception of my lathe. But even with good dust collection, there is still fine dust that gets in the air. That's what this unit is for. The idea of multiple filters is to cut down on cost. With several cheap filters with low MERV numbers, I can replace one cheap filter a month ($1) by rotating them as opposed to one expensive filter per month ($20). It's simply a cost saving measure.
I was loving your improvements from the original video until you cut the circle for the fan to be next to... After taking out the metal casing to get rid of the corners and then you just reintroduced corners! I suggest taking it out and it should work just as well 🙂
Whoa brother, I may be the worst person to answer that question. That being said, I would think the main issue would be to get the air to the fan without the dead space that a rectangular enclosure creates with a round fan(s). If you can create a baffle that fits the fan(s), then it will be fine. And, I'd also think that the more area you have covered by fan blades, the better, although it would be dependent on the efficiency of your baffle system.
I know this is in a shop and the particulates you're capturing are fairly big. But consider switching to a 20x20x4 mirv 13 filter. that will get pretty much everything including smoke and even covid-19. With that you would only need one reducing the size of the box. Also the filter in the front is kinda useless and will only really serve to decrease airflow. I'd put the fan grill back on the front instead. Also consider some sound dampening foam around the fan.. but thats just getting fancy. other than that awesome job.
I wondered about the filter in front also. I agree with you Sashimi-X that's probably a wasted detriment instead of a help?? I'm also wondering if you had more surface of filter....like a box with 3 sides (with filters on the 3 sides), wouldn't that give you better filtration (more surface area) than 3 stacked in series?? Or at least filter more air volume faster??? Don't get me wrong Mr. Franklin, your project and ideas were excellent and quite honestly I dunno nothing about woodworking compared to you, I am just inquisitive and asking opinions. If I do something like this it will take me forever as sorry as I am with woodworking, that's why when I do it I want to do it as good as I possibly can. My concern with my idea of putting 3 filters around the outside tho is ......can you make the box strong enought doing it that way??? It might be best to give up the 3 side filter box for Sashimi-X idea with your basic theory. Any comments would be appreciated.
Why does it look like you’re running all the dirt through the fan and then filtering it on the discharge side? I thought you would want the air filters before the fan so it doesn’t pull all the dust into the fan and gum up the motor?
It's not mediocrity as far as HEPA is concerned, especially given how many filters are involved pre and post fan. Possibly rotation is arguable and getting some height for box fans from the floor (for us not building boxes, but rather clipping on like the Doctor.. The market is flooded with over pricing. This is what we need, How bad is the wood dust in the work shed basement? Our next goal is UV, neg ion, carbon, and the other air purification standards.
Mediocrity.. I have no RUclips channel, I have no inspiration to give other viewers, yet some keyboard warriors have the hide to bag out your efforts? Screw em.. if you can inspire others to do, that’s a plus in my books any day. Keep up the good work mate.
Thanks for sharing, I enjoyed the video (and the original)... At a certain point though I wonder how much you're saving (if anything) by "doing this yourself." You're attempting to compete with an economy of scale... Parts and Labor... you could probably save yourself some time and just buy a well reviewed air filter. Just because the "full cost" is distributed out over time doesn't mean the total cost is less. - But I also get that sometimes it's more practical to "invest" smaller sums over time, than it is to make a larger purchases at one time.
Why do u hang it so high? Why not place it lower since hot air rises.. Then placing it at lower level will produce a cooler clean filtered air.. Am i right to say that?
If you want to get scientific, unfold a clothes hangar and make a loop at one end for a handle. On the other end, cut a 1/4" x 7" strip from a $ Tree Caramel Corn reflective liner bag and tape it to the end of your wand. Now you can hold the reflective strip in the air flow you want to measure and move it around to study the air patterns. This tool comes in handy for testing forced air vents, vacuum hose suction, etc. Using it, I discovered the dead and reverse air spaces around the corners of 20" square box fans. Portable construction site heaters frequently come in open-ended can configurations for more volume air flow. You can also buy inexpensive weather anemometers that communicate the air speed to your smartphone or weather station when you place the anemometer in doorways, hallways, open windows, forced air ducts, wind tunnels, and other air passages.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
What’s really funny is that I just came up from my shop, after cutting all of the pieces from the original design on Sawdust, only to open the fan and find out - it’s not 20 inches. So I spent 35 minutes taking the fan completely out of the hosing, and mounting it inside the box, just like you did. Now I just need to add the round cut out...great timing in finding this video, thanks.
Tony M - you’re not the only one! I did the same thing. Built that box from the original design as well, and my box fan was too big to fit. Glue, nails and screws....and enuf swear words that Hubby came running out to the garage asking what the matter was. Had to pry one side off before the glue dried just to salvage at least half the build. Already knew that I would need to build a shroud as well and accommodated my measurements to fit that shroud out of quarter inch hardboard....
so instead of this fan working overnight to clean my garage from all my glitter (er sawdust), I have to wait until tomorrow.
Strive for perfection, settle for excellent . Nicely done.
Coul you get the same result by just placing a round cut out in front or behind the fan?
Don't think so. Matthias Wandel did a video where he experimented with baffle placement. Wrong placement will actually make it worse.
thanks my friend, as I am building and painting guitars.....I am pretty happy with your input of the mediocre opiate air pushing!
Thank YOU for watching? Have you seen my guitar videos?
Great video - and THANK YOU for the plans! I built mine this afternoon. Also made an inner "shroud" for air flow improvement and had to remove my fan's frame as well, just did the same thing you did. Mine was a nasty old box fan I've had for years but still works! Thanks for this video and the plans!
Most of the time when some says " Mediocrity is the opium of the masses "
Their doing it in a lazy boy.
I had the sunlight shining just right through the windows in my bedroom and was AMAZED at the amount of dust in the air....really CREEPY. I broke a window the other day in my bedroom...and the light "went on"...I decided to BLOW the dust outside through that hole. I put a small 9 inch fan right up against the window (I ordered on Ebay for $17) where i broke it...having duct taped it to about 9" diameter. I put the fan blowing OUT through the window and have a 12" filter behind it so it is sucking the dust into the filter on its way outside. I also bought some black stury filter material in case critters decide to come in..and will put that OUTSIDE the window. I wanted some airflow all the time and will let this go continuously...there is little noise. I also will design something like you have for the whole house...great video. You sell yourself short...most people are idiots.
Great video. Love your attitude and calm humor, sometimes the best humor! Love your carpentry and the multi-filter box. Great idea, great work!
Looking at you're air cleaner video like new design but would like to know where baffle is placed in relation to fan blades hard to see in video thanks keep posting videos
Regarding medocrity: "Perfect is the enemy of good"
Something I learned in R&D, a time comes when a design must be taken from the engineers and sold to a customer.
There must also be a balance between cost and functionality.
Things can always be improved.
You could get a fairly significant improvement in the fan's thrust (and suction) by placing it in a circular duct whose interior diameter is only just a little larger than the swept diameter of the fan. It would also operate more quietly.
and even more by using the vortex the fan would create in such a circular duct to generate double force. so basically using a circular duct makes it more efficient because the air coming out of the fan can rotate freely the way it wants and doesn't get to much turbulence due to inbalance in the shape, a square shape would cause a lot of inbalance since the rotating airflow from the fan would need to make angles of 90 degrees which is inefficient and creates huge amouns of turbulence.
there also indeed is a small part which comes directly from the changing of the volume of air since in the places where it goes into the fan and just behind it that would also generate a sudden increase and fall generating a lot of turbulence, however on the contrary something is also true. the bigger the area of the filters you use the less friction they give, and that would be a rather significant loss.
so we should want to keep the parts where the filters are mounted nice and big and square in the shape of the filters. but to optimize the airflow and not waste the energy from the vortex to turbulence the fan itself should be inside of a circular pipe around 3 times the length of the fan, but more is possible. and to counter the vortex twist before it hits the square part and to convert that twist into a airflow and pressure boost we should add fins in the circular shape just a while after the fan, not to far, not to close, to far and you lose energy, to close and you also lose energy in pulses, in general keeping around enough space for another propellor in between should work well. those fins should be aimed in the opposite direction of the fans blades. if you first measure it and calculate it you can calculate the perfect angles and such. but right now we can just make them the opposite angle of the propellor blades, or since we run it at a low speed and pressure we can make them less steap and more in the direction of how we want the flow of the wind already, that way we can be sure they aren't to steep and so they won't cause a restriction in air flow, and ofcource these blades are connected to the outside instead of inside, since this is a low pressure and speed device we shouldn't go all the way to the middle, we should also use as thin as possible blades for this, since they don't need to move anyway and only need to steer the wind. while just simple blades are enough, if we want to be sure of high efficienty we can make those blades bend and slightly go through straight with the desired wind direction until the air exits the circular conduit.
now that should when done right double the airflow and/or pressure for such a fan when you run it on the same RPM which would greatly decrease noice and also decently decrease power usage. but we forgot one thing and that is where the filters are. this system has one filter in front of the fan and a few behind it. this means that we should add some extra space in front and behind of the fan to make that transition from a big square to a smaller cylindrical conduit, since the airflow isn't to big in that system the intake side doesn't need much of such a smoothening transition, it is just to prevent the turbulence from that 90 degree angle. so we can make it around 45 degrees or less steep, with one exception which I will discuss later in this. on the exit you want it slightly bigger to make sure the transition from round to square, and from small to big are smooth so it won't cause turbulence. both on the inlet and exit this can be done with a specialized plastic or metal part, but it could also be done with duct tape, with wood if you are capable and willing to finish it decently, or with a material like tempex, which is probably the most simple option, you can add some tape or plastic over it to make sure it doesn't get damaged to much over the years, but it should keep up just fine since it has been used more often in such things, just make sure to cut it with a hot wire or such or to use something like a hot plate or hot air gun to make it smooth where it will touch the air. bare tempex also brings a advantage and draw in one since it likes to accumulate a static charge, and a strong one, when you keep blowing wind past it. this static charge will work as a filter for big and insanely fine particles, however it will only filter around the outsides close to the tempex, luckily due to the vortex most dust will be in the outsides first, however remember we canceled that vortex out to get more efficiency, so now the dust will spread more even through the system. luckily this tempex part is close enough to the cylindrical conduit that most dust will still be on the outsides, and on the top we should mostly see specifically the super fine dust which normal filters won't capture making it a nice extra filter step. but there was a draw, and the draw is that the air also gets a slight electric charge, this means it will be atracted to it as well which causes some friction, luckily this frinction is insanely small, especially at these low speeds, so the friction due to this should be comparable to the friction due to the inconsistency in the wood, but there is another draw, and that is that tempex likes to stay static, there isn't really a easy way to rapily make it non static, which means it might be hard to clean of all the dust from it. again all over the draws it has are mostly draws to the pros, and the prose can be quite nice, so using tempex for such a low speed system would be great.
but I said I would come back on something and that was for the inlet, right now we altered the inlet to prevent losing airflow, however we can actually use that same size difference with a altered inlet smoother to gain extra windspeed. to do this we just need to make some kind of duct like a ducted fan. this way it will work like a airfoil, this will increase the tota airflow and will also prevent some of the air which tries to come back using the outsides of the fan. but again we don't want to many sharp edges in such a system, so just around the edge of that duct we again add something to even it out and prevent those sharp angles. normally that wouldn not be a problem if the size difference was big enough. but right now the square is only a little bigger than the cylindrical conduit, so we get more efficiency by also including that smoothening.
😮
Mr. Franklin I will put it crudely. Verbal flatulence ( the guy who called your project mediocre ) is another one of them internet trolls. Who consistently speak out of their behind. Out of all the human inventions we have few have come from geniuses. It has always been a “ mediocre , average guy” needing to accomplish something that finds a solution to a problem. I love watching your videos always something to learn from you.
Your confidence in my mediocrity is inspiring! You are officially invited to comment on all my videos.
That "internet troll" gave him the motivation to upgrade his air filtration system to excellence. The first "mediocre" version was awesome when you have little time, limited energy and a busy life to live as It beats not building anything at all, but the second version is way more efficient.
This is why freedom of speech is so important, it may create baseless "Verbal flatulence" as you call it but exposure to it pushes creative people to outdo themselves.
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 Bill Gates said he would always hire lazy people as they will find a faster more efficient way of doing something because they don't want to put forth the effort. (Paraphrasing)
Franklin, you're doing a great thing there. I don't have time or money for a fancy air filter, so I taped a 20" filter to a box fan. Big difference in air quality! I applaud you for upgrading yours for your own health. I will too, when I can. But, I urge you not to listen to those negative people out there. That's a kind of pollution that needs it's own kind of filter 😉
@@MAXAREUOS *bump* I had to comment, because you have explained adversity and its usefulness in human growth and learning. I just really appreciate seeing this in the world. Thanks :)
I got around the square box vs. round blade issue by using a duct fan (16" dia.). It moves about 650 CFM through my shop and is quieter than the box fans I used to use.
That's a great idea.
Nice job on the air filter! Your voice sounds exactly like Billy Bob Thornton in Bad Santa!
I agree ha
Would adding 2 fans instead of one make it work better? Such as higher suction?
Good question. I've actually done some research on this. The best solution is to get a really efficient fan, like a squirrel cage fan. Those things can really move some air, but unless you can salvage one from somewhere, you're going to pay. But, that's not what you asked. Based on my research, if I had two box fans, it would be much more efficient to use them separately - increasing the surface area of your filter materials by 100%. Putting the two fans in series (one in front of the other with both blowing in the same direction) will get you about 25-30% increase in efficiency, but you'll still be stuck with the same filtering surface. How all that works out mathematically is way beyond me, but it would appear that two fans working separately would be more efficient.
So does the fan blow towards the single filter or through the other 3
The fan blows toward the single filter, and sucks the air through the three.
@ thank you building one this week
Excellent job. I’d buy something like this. If I could also give you a couple pointers you may appreciate... Instead of using multiple 1” thickness filters you may want to go for a 4”. A 4” filter can provide the same cleaning ability as multiple 1” but a single 4” actually allows for more airflow than a single 1”. While 4 one inch filters would have about 5 times the pressure drop as a single 4”.
Agreed. But wouldn't that really impact the cost? Remember this is for a wood shop, so I think the gain in efficiency would be offset by the increased cost.
FranklinWoodWorks Well because there is less pressure drop you can filter the same amount of air with less electrical cost. The motor doesn’t have to fight so hard. Although because the airflow will be higher at the same speed setting it will draw more electrical current. So it depends on how you’re running it. The filter cost would be less. Just for a quick comparison I found “Aerostar” brand filters on amazon. A MERV 11 1” is $5.55 and the MERV 4” is $7.71.
Since the airflow is higher you could run it less and then you’d save on electricity with the same amount of filtration. Likely with how cheap the electricity is on this you’d just run it the same and it’d filter quicker. I’d imagine the money saved on filers might offset the electrical cost. Although I might be even more inclined to this since I can get the filters wholesale for about half price. 🤫
Good Morning, I am writing to thank you for sharing your ideas on you tube. I just watched your video answering questions and responding to the snarky comments some feel free to post from the cover of social media. I am retired from a profession in which I valued very much the willingness of others more highly placed in my profession to have a conversation with me about an issue I was facing. Without that connection my many years of serving the public would have lacked valuable assistance. I agree with your comments about the woodworking community and their and your willingness to help. I am a hobby woodworker fortunate to have a shop and tools. It has been a godsend during this time of isolation. I am in the middle of making a shop air cleaner of your design and will be cutting a shroud for the fan as you described.
Use eye hooks to mount it. Will be quicker to take down and mount. Great idea overall.
I think your right but would the box begin to swing slightly from the breeze it creates or centrifugal force? I'd prefer that box being secured if that happens.
or how bout L brackets on the side so it can be secure.
I was impressed you chose to see if it could be done 'better' and have subscribed. It's often difficult to accept improvements are possible in our own inventions - I suffer from this!. And there's also the question of perceived gain versus resource expenditure. BobUK.
Thank you! Cost vs benefit is a constant struggle, and I appreciate you acknowledging it and taking the time to comment. Cheers!
Nice. I'm sure some day I'll get a round tuit and build one myself. Still using a 20" box fan with a 20" filter taped to it. Works, but it's noisy.
Bill Smithem same here!
Me too, but there is a lot of turbulence in the corners. The baffle is supposed to help with that, I’ve been told. Not sure what the big box accomplishes. Might try it and see.
As for the mediocrity comments, 80 years on the rock has taught me that perfection is in very short supply. Make something that works and get on with it; we’re burning daylight here.
Stuck a filter on my dehumidifier. Think I'll stick one on my box fan too, just run it when I'm not home.....copd ...
btw pretty sure the Correct quote is"religion is the opium of the people",
Karl Marx .
I taped a furnace filter to a 20” box fan as a temporary air filter until I can build a unit like this. It worked but burnt out the fan the first day, so I am a little apprehensive to build a unit like this.
@@Donski96 Interesting. Mine has been working just fine for three years.
"Geroff me, human!" (Cat in the last few seconds)
Also, as far as trolls go, ask to see their projects. I see few content creators who talk smack, where as the anonymous masses never stop.
He got 15-20% improvement by taking the advice of the "trolls". Sounds like a good deal.
The old fan box was cool, the new one is better yes. The best way is to have what's called a "square to round" behind the ran. Round attaches to the fan, and square at the filter base. A square to round is a sheet metal shape that is the best way to transport air from a square opening (filterbank) to a round opening (fan Inlet). You basically replicated that, so with the tools that you have, you cant do better than you did. This is just my professional knowlege as an HVAC sheet metal fabricator. Awesome job! I wish we had one for our shop. Plenty of metal dust flying around!
Utilizing the Bernoulli Effect increasing airflow
I am an up and coming woodworker with a garage for a shop. I watched your video with great anticipation. You have created a cost effective; quiet; and efficient filtering system. Well done!
P.S. Do you a new set of plans for the update that you made? If yes, may I obtain the plans, please?
I don't have any plans for version 2. But, the dimensions for the pieces will be based on the internal span of the box and the design of the particular fan you use. I bet you can do this.
More than happy to give this video a like. Thanks for the improved design!
This is a great jump off point for making a filter that functions well and is actually decorative or that matches your taste in interior design...well done my friend...
Thank you!
Great video. I enjoyed the original also. I have a "store bought" air scrubber, but I'm building one like yours for two reasons: 1. Two are better than one and 2. I like to build things! Also, concerning the negative comments you get, just remember the internet has enabled passive-aggressive individuals a platform to feast upon. I am in the group that enjoys your videos and want you to keep up the good work. I may learn something, I may not. No harm either way.
Lloyd you and I would likely be good friends / neighbors, no harm in learning is a good and constructive position in life. Iv'e been doing woodwork for 55 years and continue to learn things everyday as well as make plenty of mistakes. But I would correct what you so nicely said " passive-aggressive" no no not passive in any way but just down right aggressive arrogance coming from the opioids of their own prideful brain cells. Hey I'm just saying! lol
Seems like your filter works great. Here is a comment about fans (as opposed to centrifugal blowers). They hate back-pressure. The way to improve flow is to increase the surface area of the filters. But it would be bulky and more difficult to build, etc. Thanks for the video. I think this represents the best that can be achieved easily with a box fan.
Great set of videos between the original and the "even better" version. Combined with the link to the complimentary plans make this one of the best DIY how to packages I've come across - you've earned a Subscriber!
And curious based on your experiences using your DIY shop air filter, how dirty does the exhaust filter get compared to your #1, #2 and or #3 intake filters? Where's most of your dust being captured?
I change the exhaust filter once every 9 or 10 months.
Since I don't have your skillset nor the tools how much would you charge to built two of them? I have 2 children with asthma and this could really help out. I'm in Phoenix, Arizona
What you need are HEPA grade filters in a system that works throughout your home. My project will be annoyingly noisy in a home setting, and the shipping would be cost-prohibitive. I think you should check into getting a whole-house air purification system added to your HVAC system. It will be more effective and cheaper in the long run.
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 Thanks I'll look into it.
Can’t wait to get mine built! Great design.
love your ideas! I lack the skills necessary to create things that look nice. I am a therapist, with dogs, a cat, new wife and I need to figure out some way to better filtrate my air, I do love your ideas! Thank you, Bob
Would it be better to use round ducting and round filters? It seems that when you force air to go from a square housing to a round opening turbulence would ensue. With a round system you could also recess the fan a bit into the ducting so its quieter, especially if there was sound absorbing material lining the ducting. Pot growers battle noise this way apparently, wanting to hide the fact they are using fans to exhaust air.
Well it would be, but then I wouldn't have been able to build t out of scrap. Remember, this wasn't about the best design possible, it was about the best design possible with what I had on hand
This may be a dumb question but . . . You have 2 filters on one side of the fan and one on the other. Which side are you drawing into and which is the outflow?
Instead of those bulbs, it looks like you could use a few of those 4' led shop lights as they put out more light!
If you haven't seen it, watch my video (shop lighting upgrade) that will show you why I use the lights I have. There are so many great options out there now, but I think I was able to save many $$ with the approach I took.
Nice improvement. However, the complex rafters are outstanding dust resting points. Suggest you get some kind of ceiling with less complex geometry to keep dust from hiding there. Or, leaf-blow the joints occasionally and let gravity do its work.
Awesome! Also, you sound just like Billy Bob Thornton.
Love the cat 'helping'.
Hood fan 😁, cheap ones are out there and fun to Frankenstein into a filter.
Wood workers tend to be "Player haters", America do not read the comments... I love what you do.
Very nice of you to say. Thanks for the info.
Instead of using a box fan, could you use a circle fan and then use the shroud for a seal
Btw I saw your video titled questions about the air filter. And the device will work. That's a definitive my friend. Just look at Smart Air's DIY air filter system. Just pop on an activated carbon filter and you will be capturing fumes as well. It won't be very efficient but it will do its job.
I see you use multiple filters. May I ask why? Would one MERV 13 not be enough? Thanks.
Thanks for sharing. You are thinking outside the box and sharing with others. That puts you pretty high on the list of contributors to the common good. How can anyone complain about that.
I'd encourage you to invest $150 in a particle meter from Amazon so you can tell how effective your system is. The meters are getting better and less expensive over time. A $150 meter might not be super accurate but it will let you compare the dust particle counts of the shop before you start working to counts with and without your filter system after you start working. Having an objective measure like that makes it easier to home in on an effective solution. My shop air particle count is usually 90 less than the air outside the shop. A meter made finding solutions possible.
The smallest most dangerous particles are too small to see so, without a meter, you can't tell if you are filtering them or just keeping them aloft. You need at least a MERV 11 filter for the system to be effective. The good news is that you can flow around 500 cfm through a 1" MERV 11 filter with a $20 box fan. Using a cheap MERV 6 or lower filter as a prefilter will make the good filter last longer without cutting the flow rate down very much.
Or for less the 50 dollars more he could get another air cleaner. Wow.....
@@SW-zu7ve I don't believe you can buy an effective air cleaner for $50. A particle meter is worth the investment for anyone who wants to take healthy air seriously. The particles that are most dangerous to your health are too small to see so without a meter you are just guessing.
For example, I bought a discount air filter that was rated as MERV 12 (relatively high filtration efficiency) to save some $$. I tested it and it was filtering at closer to a MERV 6 filter which essentially passes 95% of the most dangerous particles straight through. It still got dirty and filtered the big particles but those aren't the ones that get deep into your lungs.
If he uses a MERV 11 or equivalent filter then this system will effective. However, a meter is great for figuring out what does and doesn't work for mods to dust collection ports or to see if your dust collector filter is cleaning the air or actually making it worse which is the case for many types of filter bags. A meter is cheap insurance (awareness) for a slow killer. Long term wood dust exposure isn't much different than smoking. Over time it has very similar effects.
@@SW-zu7ve I think Jose had you in mind when he wrote his comment.
@@markw3598 And what verbal flatulence Mark? Did you even read my comment? Do you even know what I was commenting on? Do you even know who I was commenting to? Anyway I think you just trolled me.
@@shophacks Where did I say 50 dollars gets you a good air cleaner? I said ADD 50 dollars meaning to the 150 you are saying to spend. So 200 dollar will get you an adequate air cleaner.
You're on the right track. If you look at the engine fan on a motor vehicle, all the most efficient systems, whether mechanical or electric, have a shroud around them. This way, the air is "directed" to the fan blades. More air movement with less energy expended and less noise.
Looks like the upgrade is worth it. I wonder if part of the noise reduction is because you replaced the metal motor mounts, leading to less vibration transmitted. Good job.
Hepa filters are a good chioce too. Nice job!
I think it looks great and fairly simple to build. I know there’s 3 filters, but do u not still try to port the outward air to an external hole?
Lol you got rid of your "I can't hear you" excuse with the wife.
Good video. The only big way to improve air flow now would be putting a stator to force the air movement straight through the box.
Thanks for the videos! I watched both and found it's very helpful. May I ask, how do you connect the remote control to the fan?
I don’t think there is one.
You need to put the baffle right at the edge of the blades, it should be as close to the blades as possible, putting it behind or in front as you did, kills the efficiency of the fan.
If you look carefully at 2:44, you can see that the blades are in fact, right in the center of the baffle. The camera angle may be misleading. What you see about one inch behind the blades are the motor mounts. The one inch spacers I talked about in the video is what allowed me to put the blades where they needed to be. Apologies if all of that was confusing. It's difficult sometimes to write a script explaining things since in my head I know what I did. That last sentence was probably confusing too.
Nice improvement on the air filtration system Rob. I can see me making the same improvement in the near future.
Richard, the difference is astonishing. I plan on doing a "shop update" video as a followup on some of my projects, and I'm going to include the improved dust filter. And, you have no idea how much I appreciate your support of the channel.
be nice to your little kitty. They are your patience and love teachers. He/she sounds like it wanted some loving attention.
Looks like the original plans are no longer accessible. I've requested access a few times. Anyone know where I could get my hands on the plans?
It would probably work better with an older Box Fan from the mid 80's or earl 90's since cheap box fans at that time had stronger motors and better pitch in the blades.
Excellent job! I am going to use one for my paint booth...spraying latex paint so not worried about any explosion factor....he he...well maybe. Anyway, thanks for the updated video. And I really like your beard! Nice kitty cat too...ya know they always want attention when your busy doing something.
thank you for taking the time posting ur video and ignored internet troll
this guy sounds like jef bridges in the big lebowsky..... i mean that as a compliment , relaxing voice
Very nicely done. Did using 3/4" ply make it too heavy? Wondering why you didn't use 1/2"? (not suggesting you re-make it with 1/2", just wondering for those of us planing to build one)
Half inch ply wood be fine. I used 3/4 Baltic Birch because 1. that's what I had in the shop, and 2. I'm well known for over doing things.
Mr Franklin thank you so much for this video I just finished making mine and it works great thanks again and look forward to your next build
Hey Franklin I wanted to discuss designs with you. I am trying to make a cheap yet efficient and powerful filter that would give clean air to an entire house floor. But the machine has to be portable. I am having problems with fan selection and prospective noise reduction.
You are speaking way above my expertise. It would seem to me, that to filter the air on an entire floor, you would have to move a massive amount of air. There are some powerful fans out there, but they are very noisy. I would try to find a commercially available unit that does what you want, reasearch it, and see if you can figure a way to DIY.
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 I am trying to do exactly that. COVID-19 is not letting me through though. Let's see what materializes.
Something I've often wondered when I watch people install air cleaners - is there any particular reason to always mount them right up under the ceiling? Does this not potentially keep the dust particles suspended in the air longer, compared to mounting it closer to the ground (under a table that's open on both sides for instance) where the airflow would be helped by gravity to keep the flow of particles going downwards?
At the floor level they will blow dust laying on surfaces. On the ceiling they will not.
It's those dust particles suspended in the air that are bad to breathe. IMHO, right at head level is the best place for them, but the least convenient.
Great video and nice build!
Ok but do you have a smaller, lighter, less complicated design?
Did you experiment at all with the placement of the baffle? I.e. should it be even with the blade tips, or slightly forward/back of the tips?
I didn't, but I relied on Matthias Wandel to do it for me. He experimented and found that the baffle should be just slightly forward of the fan. I mounted mine where most of the blade is slightly forward of the baffle.
Why the round baffle ?
Great project! Thx also for the plans. Much appreciated.
Why did you put a filter on the exhaust side?
Is there a reason you used so many filters? Are they cheaper ones? Could you achieve the same with a single more efficient filter?
I can hear cat over the fan. That’s a quiet unit.
wow! great idea for mushrooms 🍄
Really great project
Darn cat is louder than the fan. Nicely done.
Now if you simply would have figured out that taking it in through one hole is not efficient
You should have at a minimum made two openings in the box and drawn air from two sides simultaneously
This will double your opening size, remember you're trying to move as much air as possible, you're not trying to create a vacuum or high pressure air coming out the other side.
So the least amount of resistance it can encounter will make it as quiet as possible.
I agree with everything you said. However, what you described was not what I was trying to create. Using your vision, I would have two options: 1. Use really good filters (expensive) and have to replace them all after most projects - especially where there is a lot of sanding, or 2. Use cheap filters and blow dusty air back out of the unit.
My design doesn't have a massive air turnover rate, but what comes out is clean, all while using cheap filters. It fits the job of cleaning the air in my small shop, and doesn't break the bank in filters.
Sometimes 'mediocrity' is a function of the budget... more money=less mediocrity..LOL..!! I will be building one similar to this very soon. I really like the idea of the baffle around the fan in that it closes up the corners. I also plan on installing an exhaust fan through the side of my shop so when the weather is nice I can open up my overhead door and let that exhaust fan do the job, along with a filtered fan of some type. I might just build a box for the exhaust fan with some filters and combine both ideas, but not sure about that at the moment. I know that the fine sanding dust is not good at all for our lungs and even the little dust collector on sanders just doesn't capture near enough of that fine dust. I know...I cough way too much already so I really need to do this. Thanks, Franklin, for the video.
GREAT BUILD, DON'T LISTEN TO HATERS
awesome job brother i have a similar setup out of cardboard this was done so neatly and professionally you gotta be smart to make that. lol be nice to your cat
The filter fan is a great idea. Increasing efficiency is a great idea when noise is to be controlled. I have found out that using a swirl pattern fan blade with a variable speed motor controller works even better. Because the blade shape is a swiel it cuts the air just so smoothly that even at high speed the noise is very low. Just saying. Sorry that I stole your ideal and ran with it. Good day too.
Don't apologize for improving this thing. I'm flattered that you think the basis is a good idea. I'm not too proud to have someone school me (as long as they are nice about it).
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 I will keep you in the loop what I come up with. Good day.
Great concept, thank you! Adapting it to a remodel work environment in my 1949 basement (major dust production work outside or in barn). My plan is use a 2 inch MERV 8 on intake side & a 1 inch MERV 13 on exhaust port; working w/ insulation, minor drywall, & carpet removal. Scanning comments below my general impression is that filter choice & number is based on cost + desired filtration quality, true/false??
On the issue of mediocrity: my observation is that there may be some misunderstanding concerning what can be accomplished w/n the confines of mediocristan in contrast to extremistan; I suggest perhaps some below re-read (or just read) their copy of N.N. Taleb's, The Black Swan, so all involved in that (dialogue) communicate from a common level of understanding. Warning: THINKING REQUIRED.
Again, that you for great video, great thoughts!!!
You, sir, have won the comment of the month award. Folks that subscribe to my channel seem to have figured me out well enough to know that what you see me making is generally the first time I've ever made it. No testing, no rehearsal, what you see is what you get. That being said, my goal in all of my videos is not to show you that absolute best way to do something, or the best design, or the best anything (although some of the titles may lead you to believe otherwise). It's to show the viewer something new I've discovered, or a different way to do an operation, or to make something yourself (tools, jigs), saving a ton of money while accomplishing the same thing.
I also never publish plans. Although the Sawdust Maker made plans for this original build, if I look at plans, it's only to see how a thing is made. I make the dimensions my own to fit my needs. I expect most DIYers would want to do the same. Plus, I want to inspire others to use their brain, think outside of the box, and get creative.
Thank you for your encouragement - it was well received, and sorely needed.
Great video! The best way would be to mount the fan and motor inside the center of a cylindrical duct with about a 1/8 to 1/4” clearance between the tip of the fan blades and the inside diameter of the duct. You may need to check to see how much deflection happens to the fan at higher speeds and take that into consideration when creating that clearance. A ducted fan will be the most efficient for an axial fan setup like the one you built. I use a squirrel cage blower which has a more positive displacement than that of an axial fan and tends to be even quieter. Noise from the fan blades means that there is turbulence or surge (back flow) which equals loss. Never settle for mediocrity!
Try a single 4" merv 13 filter. This will allow you to pull more air and will be more efficient all the way around.
Yes but will clog up the more expensive filter quicker yes?
@@koolkid1234ism no, actually. The greater surface area allows for a proportionally greater amount of filtration as air circulates and the life of the filter.
I actually use the 4" and don't see a need to change them after nearly 3 months. While the box fan with a 1" in the same garage needs changed already.
Interesting build but I'm a bit confused as to what the unit does. Are you just filtering the air flowing through the box? Most other dust collection units I've seen on YT are attached to some machine that creates the dust. Second, why the need for so many filter slots? Is it that one filter does not catch enough of the dust?
It's not a dust collector - I have that attached to all of my tools with the exception of my lathe. But even with good dust collection, there is still fine dust that gets in the air. That's what this unit is for. The idea of multiple filters is to cut down on cost. With several cheap filters with low MERV numbers, I can replace one cheap filter a month ($1) by rotating them as opposed to one expensive filter per month ($20). It's simply a cost saving measure.
I was loving your improvements from the original video until you cut the circle for the fan to be next to... After taking out the metal casing to get rid of the corners and then you just reintroduced corners! I suggest taking it out and it should work just as well 🙂
Got a question, I am planning to build a 16"X25"X?? device. My question is wich would be more efficient, a single 15" fan or a double 12-13" fans ?
Whoa brother, I may be the worst person to answer that question. That being said, I would think the main issue would be to get the air to the fan without the dead space that a rectangular enclosure creates with a round fan(s). If you can create a baffle that fits the fan(s), then it will be fine. And, I'd also think that the more area you have covered by fan blades, the better, although it would be dependent on the efficiency of your baffle system.
I know this is in a shop and the particulates you're capturing are fairly big. But consider switching to a 20x20x4 mirv 13 filter. that will get pretty much everything including smoke and even covid-19. With that you would only need one reducing the size of the box. Also the filter in the front is kinda useless and will only really serve to decrease airflow. I'd put the fan grill back on the front instead. Also consider some sound dampening foam around the fan.. but thats just getting fancy.
other than that awesome job.
I wondered about the filter in front also. I agree with you Sashimi-X that's probably a wasted detriment instead of a help?? I'm also wondering if you had more surface of filter....like a box with 3 sides (with filters on the 3 sides), wouldn't that give you better filtration (more surface area) than 3 stacked in series?? Or at least filter more air volume faster???
Don't get me wrong Mr. Franklin, your project and ideas were excellent and quite honestly I dunno nothing about woodworking compared to you, I am just inquisitive and asking opinions. If I do something like this it will take me forever as sorry as I am with woodworking, that's why when I do it I want to do it as good as I possibly can. My concern with my idea of putting 3 filters around the outside tho is ......can you make the box strong enought doing it that way??? It might be best to give up the 3 side filter box for Sashimi-X idea with your basic theory. Any comments would be appreciated.
Where can i get the filters?
Great project! Thanks for sharing!
Awesome job there.
Loved you in Avengers Endgame...
"I am...inevitable." Thanos
"Mediocrity is... ok"
haha good one
Why does it look like you’re running all the dirt through the fan and then filtering it on the discharge side?
I thought you would want the air filters before the fan so it doesn’t pull all the dust into the fan and gum up the motor?
I've got three filters before the fan and one after. Go to my channel and watch my latest video, I explain a lot about the fan.
What percentage of particulate do you think this cleans
I like it, I'm going to make it. thanks
this is very interesting..may consider something like this in my attic..
It's not mediocrity as far as HEPA is concerned, especially given how many filters are involved pre and post fan.
Possibly rotation is arguable and getting some height for box fans from the floor (for us not building boxes, but rather clipping on like the Doctor.. The market is flooded with over pricing.
This is what we need, How bad is the wood dust in the work shed basement?
Our next goal is UV, neg ion, carbon, and the other air purification standards.
Mediocrity.. I have no RUclips channel, I have no inspiration to give other viewers, yet some keyboard warriors have the hide to bag out your efforts? Screw em.. if you can inspire others to do, that’s a plus in my books any day. Keep up the good work mate.
Next video, hold your cat up so we can see what your supervisor looks like. :)
She's a BOSS!
Thanks for sharing, I enjoyed the video (and the original)... At a certain point though I wonder how much you're saving (if anything) by "doing this yourself."
You're attempting to compete with an economy of scale... Parts and Labor... you could probably save yourself some time and just buy a well reviewed air filter. Just because the "full cost" is distributed out over time doesn't mean the total cost is less.
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But I also get that sometimes it's more practical to "invest" smaller sums over time, than it is to make a larger purchases at one time.
For me, it isn't really about the time as it relates to money. If I had a money-making shop, I would probably feel differently. I like the challenge.
Why do u hang it so high? Why not place it lower since hot air rises.. Then placing it at lower level will produce a cooler clean filtered air.. Am i right to say that?
Anyway thumbs up! I also have similar ideas to use the aquarium cotton-like filters to filter the air..
You did a great job.
If you want to get scientific, unfold a clothes hangar and make a loop at one end for a handle. On the other end, cut a 1/4" x 7" strip from a $ Tree Caramel Corn reflective liner bag and tape it to the end of your wand. Now you can hold the reflective strip in the air flow you want to measure and move it around to study the air patterns. This tool comes in handy for testing forced air vents, vacuum hose suction, etc. Using it, I discovered the dead and reverse air spaces around the corners of 20" square box fans. Portable construction site heaters frequently come in open-ended can configurations for more volume air flow. You can also buy inexpensive weather anemometers that communicate the air speed to your smartphone or weather station when you place the anemometer in doorways, hallways, open windows, forced air ducts, wind tunnels, and other air passages.