Here is a way to get extra long life out of your rollers. Before installing new rollers, I suggest soaking the bearing material in oil for a day. I've done this by taping over one side of the bearing and laying it flat on that side. Then I pour oil (not wd40, but a thicker oil than wd40) into to opening and let it sit for a day. Bearings believe it or not, actually absorb oil. Before using this routine, my rollers would wear out very fast. I don't exactly remember how many months I got out of a set, but I do remember that the first set was replaced under warranty on my unit that was purchased in 2009. I know the last time I installed new rollers was in 2017 (this being January 2024). They are still working fine.
@@Samlol23_drrich I have more information about oiling. I could not edit the above post (system would not let me), so I am adding a new post with more up to date information.
Thanks for the video. I swapping driers between our two houses. The house we just bought has a bottom exhaust. And it's handy to see how to take it apart to reroute the exhaust. Thank you very much.
Thank you very much Sam! Those like me wanting informations on how to open a Huebsch dryer cannot find this info on You Tube. After noticing that most parts were the same as for Speed Queen dryer, I went back on YT and found your video with everything I needed. Keep up your good work.
For the most part, except for the brand name and probably model numbers, Huebsch and Speed Queen are both manufactured by Alliance Laundry Systems, and apples for apples should be identical. Granted, there are dozens if not hundreds of model numbers for Alliance machines, so parts/controls may vary based on model and serial numbers, but it is likely that the same parts changed on similar models of both brands. A handy resource for Alliance and other manufacturers machines is the Parts King webpage for parts manuals where you can select the machine category, in this case "Alliance Dryers", and then scroll down to the model number for your machine. Clicking the link for your model will bring up a downloadable .pdf parts list for your machine including exploded diagrams for each part and or assembly. www.partsking.com/manuals/
This is an Excellent Video! I never thought I would understand what you did today. I am so happy. I am a female and never had to work on anything like this. Thank You
Great video, thanks for posting. I bought one used and thought it was a bit noisy. After disassembling my dryer, come to find out it’s completely fine. Everything rolls smoothly just that the drum rubbing against the felt is what I’m hearing as it runs.
Great video. My heater went out on mine and after I determined I could not access it from the rear, I then removed the drum to gain access to it with the help of watching this video. The heater is in the bottom left corner as has two screws holding it in. After checking everything out, I decided to replace the same parts you, including the idler arm spring since its all open. On the drum, mine had some rubber roller build up on the drum causing small bumps, so I used some fine sandpaper to remove it. Using an old toothbrush, I cleaned all the blower fins off as they had a good build up of dirt/lint. Behind the dryer door, you can locate the model # and on SpeedQueens website, you can use that to find the parts manual with a parts break down. I went through appliance parts pro for replacement parts.
John Householder glad it helped, even a little. I love appliance parts pros. They ship very fast and have an easy to navigate website. Thanks for commenting.
Thank you so much for this video. I have the same dryer and need to do exactly what you did. Your video will save me a lot of misery and frustration. In fact, not only do I have the exact same dryer I even have the exact same watch you are wearing. You are a braver man than me. When I do mine I am going to take off my Rolex first. I am amazed you didn't beat yours to death doing the repair. Mine is going to sit this repair out. Other than that perfect video. But I admit I cringed every time I saw your Rolex going back inside the Dryer. I just knew it was going to be scratched up mercilessly but yours survived. Mine is going to stay on the dresser until it is done. Great job.
Thanks! most of my videos have a very small audience, since I'm not an expert in most things I post but will try to fix anything. As my dad once said, "just don't be afraid- it's already broken...what's the worst thing that could happen?" and I have been living those words fairly successfully. As far as the watch- about fifteen years ago I had a Breitling ( the first nice watch I got when I started working) that I used to take off every night, every time I did anything. On, off, on off. Well it disappeared. No idea where it went. And I am extremely responsible. I looked for a full year before I decided it wasn't coming back. When I got the Rolex, I decided I was not going to take it off- ever. So I have worn it basically 24/7 since then. The only time I take it off now, is when I go into the water, since after about 12 years of perfect timekeeping the band broke at the clasp. I sent it to a place in California and they wouldnt fix the band without me doing a full service as well. So I went ahead- and they provided a five year warranty which excluded water when I read the fine print. I figured that if they are excluding water, and they had to break the factory seal to do the service, I would take if off to swim and shower. So that's what I do. It's extremely bullet proof and scratch proof- I have hit it into everything possible. Thanks for the comment and good luck with your repair!
Thank you! I have the same model and was afraid to tackle it. Mine had the same wheel bad. Took less than an hour to fix, but another hour of precleaning before the fix.
I did the same thing last spring on my SQ dryer but a few more steps. 2 screws that hold the metal tube pulled out to clean out as there was alot of lint there. Also screen in back where heating element is make sure no lint there as that can cause a fire. My belt snapped and roller made noise. I had far more lint then you as the trap door was not opening properly causing it to not dry as airflow was poor. Replaced lint door where it is at the wall to outside. Finally I cleaned the drum esp. at where the rollers ride. I would recommend at least once a year take cover off to remove lint as dryers are lint and dust magnets.
Are you talking about the tube that runs from the blower motor in front out to the back of the dryer? I didn’t even think to do that, great idea. Next time I will. Thanks for the comment!
A very helpful video man, thank you for taking the time. I removed mine dryer from the w/d closet and set it in the garage, make maneuvers a lot easier. I lay it on its back to reinstall the drum.
Always an adventure at my house. Working on my dishwasher now. Frigging leak and the prior owner was too lazy to grout under it. So water went under the tile and I've gotta redo my tile too . Thanks for commenting
Very instructive!! I had the same problem on my Speed Queen dryer as well, so I simply followed your example to switch out the noisy rollers in the back of the unit. I wouldn't have bothered to attempt the repair without this video. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this. The first video had a lot of valuable information already, and now seeing it all open up is so, so helpful. Greatly appreciated.
Never hurts to try. Ive done things i never thought i could thanks to other people on You Tube. As someone used to say on The A team "i love it when a plan comes together" thanks for watching and commenting
Can’t thank you enough for this video! I have the same unit, needed to change rollers and belt, your video was a true lifesaver! You did an excellent job explaining each step, I especially liked the ideas of marking the wire order on the harnesses and putting the one longer bolt for lint trap in the trap while working on the rest of the dryer in order not to lose it or get it mixed up with the others, which are all the same. Again, just want to thank you for your efforts to create this video, it was exactly what I needed! 🤗💕🌸
You crushed it man! Great instrumental video. Concise, detailed but not overly, narrated clearly as well. I plan on doing my one today. Only it's 5/16" not "9/16.
Helpful video, I'm having electrical problems with mine and couldn't figure out how to get the top open to look at the wires coming up from the bottom. Also, you might be the only guy ever to work on a dryer whilst wearing a Rolex, here I am worried about scratching a Garmin LOL.
I believe there are four or five screws Along the back edge of the top panel and it flips forward. I had to replace the entire mechanism for the timer that controls all the drying Cycles. Once you tilt it forward you can get to and test all the wiring. I seem to recall it all being from the back.
Ps I had this watch for over Seventeen years and I wear it 24/7 365 cause it just keeps running and i dont have to think about it. Thanks for commenting
Great job. Great tutorial. The only thing you didn't show is finding and then recovering the missing screws from where some body kicked them under the washing machine.
Here is a way to get extralong life out of your rollers and belt deflector. Before installing new ones, I suggest soaking the bearing material in oil for a day. I've done this by taping over one side of the bearing and laying it flat on that side. Then I pour oil (not wd40, but a thicker oil than wd40) into to opening and let it sit for a day. Some bearings believe it or not, actually absorb oil. I am not an expert, so I do not know for sure that these bearings are of the sintered type. Before using this routine, my rollers would wear out very fast. I don't exactly remember how many months I got out of a set, but I do remember that the first set was replaced under warranty on my unit that was purchased in 2011. I think it was 3 years for the original and then 3 years for the first replacement installed without using this oil technique. I know the last time I installed new rollers was in 2017 (this being January 2024). They are still working fine. However, I took them out yesterday and the shafts were starting to wear so this dryer was just about to start squeaking. So I would say you can get 5 to 6 years when oiled well at installation time. I am thinking that in 5 years I should try to just oil these bearings and see if they would last indefinitely. However, getting oil back to those bearings (including the belt deflector) still on the dryer is not going to be easy.
Thanks for the excellent video. However, I have a WORD OF WARNING to folks out there. The motor on my Speed Queen dryer died, and I planned to replace it following the disassembly instructions in this video. It wasn't until I had already ordered the replacement motor and tried to remove it that I discovered you CANNOT REMOVE THE MOTOR FROM THE BLOWER. It's impossible without breaking the blower. If you want to replace the motor, you HAVE TO ORDER THE MOTOR/BLOWER COMBO. I hope this comment saves someone somewhere some heartache (and about $200). However, this video is excellent, and thanks again for the great instructions.
William Cornell that’s really good to know. Are you talking about the blower wheel? I probably would have made the same mistake as you. Did it look like this? ( I know it’s a Maytag linked ruclips.net/video/aFssz2ZrU_c/видео.html )
@@Samlol23_drrich Similar, but if it's attached to the motor shaft the same way then Speed Queen didn't make any of the metal parts accessible. The blower wheel has what looks like a large plastic nut (22mm) in the middle, and it even has an arrow and words to indicate turn left to remove. Nothing is accessible beyond this plastic nut. However, it absolutely does not budge. Eventually, the plastic nut itself broke free from the blower basket, and it STILL wouldn't come loose. Since it was already broke, I took a chisel to it, and it really does appear to be designed as a composite piece. Speed Queen apparently designed this model so that the entire blower/motor section was to be replaced as one entity. It was a very frustrating experience on my end. PWS Laundry does appear to sell the entire blower/motor unit, but I had already ordered the separate motor in the foolish believe that removing the blower basket couldn't possibly be too difficult. I hope everyone learns from my (expensive) mistake!
@@williamcornell5001 The blower fan assembly does (usually) come off, but every once in a while, like one in fifty, the nut is stripped and just turns. We usually save up the bad exhaust fan assemblies where the motors have frozen up and do several up to a dozen at a time. One guy holds the motor pulley with channel locks and the other turns off the blower fan assembly (we use a 4-way tire iron). We disassemble the blower housing assembly, remove the motors, rinse off all of the non-electric parts, allow them to dry and put it all back together with a new motor then they are as good as new. Definitely a good idea to replace the idler wheel and bearing assembly at the same time, everything else should be fresh, clean and good to go. And of course if you have come this far, replacing the cylinder rollers and belt is a good idea as well. Depending on the age of the machine, inspect the cylinder roller shafts too, they may require some light buffing with emery cloth if there is any corrosion buildup, and if the rollers were bad for a long time the roller shaft(s) may require replacement if they are worn.
@@GmanMe Depending on design It may have a keyway to remove to get squirrel cage off. An OLD trick is to heat shaft with heat gun to help get it to slide off. They may make it to be pressed on/off. Then you need a puller to remove but be careful as you can damage squirrel cage. Hope this helps.
Thanks. Appreciate the comment. Most of the videos I plan to make don't get done cause I'm lazy. This was one of the few that I planned that actually worked out.
My new dyer front load has a vibration sound on right side. If I press on cabinet it stops. What do you think is in there that is vibrating? I see some wires on yours.
Thats funny. Im gonna have to re-watch the video. I've got internal and external snap ring pliers- a whole set of them. I just didn't see the ring. Thanks!
Well i was in process of doing same thing. After tearing it apart the shaft that's attached to the blower spins freely so i have to replace that as well since that's what spins the drum. Hopefully i don't have to replace the whole motor. Well back to work.
Are you sure there isnt a small allen screw that came loose? You should plug it in and see what spins (motorwise). If everything is apart, just reconnect the switch and tape it closed. (Or short the 2 switch wires if u know which they are)
@@Samlol23_drrich no Allen screws. It's a threaded shaft. It ripped all the threads so that piece just sits there and sits nothing if I spin the motor.
@@Samlol23_drrich tell me about it. I pay extra for consumers to fix these things for no charge and with pandemic im stuck trying to fix it myself for a cost.
Mosi Forde I believe the thermal fuse is on the back wall inside the dryer, bottom left side. You could just take off the first 2 screws on the bottom kick panel, take a flashlight and see if it’s accessible. You would definitely need to stick your arms way in there and lie on the floor. It probably could be done though, my suggestion would be to stick your cellphone in the opening and take photos of everything first, so you can easily see what’s going on before committing
The thermal fuse assembly on a Speed Queen dryer is attached to the heater assembly, which is attached at the base of the heater duct and located directly beneath the left roller. It would be tough to get to without removing the cylinder, although I know some guys who remove the front bulkhead and tilt the cylinder out and reach through it to get to the rollers and the thermal fuse. And don't forget to unplug the machine! For a .pdf parts manual with diagrams lookup your machine by model number at the Parts King manuals page. www.partsking.com/manuals/
Yes, it is crazy easy to service everything from the front. Take the front cover off. Look to the rear there are two 9/16 head screws just like on the front panel that hold the thermostat/coil assembly in there. Take the two screws out and then slide the coil assembly down and out. Commercial = easy front service.
Thanks for your hardwork man! Hey I was wondering though I know Lowes has some dryer belts but are they compatible with these Speed Queens. I don't want to order from a parts site and have to wait for a weeI or more due to the holidays. What is the length of that belt also if you remember?
I think you're gonna have to order it online and pay for expedited shipping. A lot of these places will get it to you by Tuesday if you order today. Its part D511255P. The length is 46.25", width is 0.3125" and height is 0.125" according to webstaurantstore.com website. I looked it up for you. Good luck. I would get the oem part only online. Just my 2 cents.
@@Samlol23_drrich Okay I gotcha yeah I only found one website with my model. It is an older model but it would cost 33 dollars and the earliest they could get it is December 28th.
@@IWBVS I don’t think t(at should happen. Are you sure the drum is in correctly and is sitting properly? Mine sounded like new. No waterfall and no clanking.
Looks nearly identical to Maytags Stream of Heat dryer design used from 1973-2006. I guess the old saying about imitation being the sincerest form of flattery is true.
Very good camera work! I found you on google and your video was the closest to identifying a problem I need to fix: The plastic lint-trap cover that is attached to the door has become brittle and is cracking and developing holes in the grate, which leaves sharp plastic edges that snag clothes and cause runs during a drying cycle. Do you know what the name of the replacement part is for this plastic housing, or better yet the speed-queen part number? Or, is it sufficient to remove that whole piece from the door and rely on that plastic insert that you placed in/on top of the actual lint screen itself?
Thanks for the compliment. I would absolutely replace the screen. Otherwise lint will get through. My lint screen isn't in the door. Is yours? If you have the exact model number I can show you how to find the part number and replace it. I usually go on appliancepartspros.com they have almost everything.
@@Samlol23_drrich Yes, I definitely think I should replace it. Thanks for the reassurance. So, I think I did not describe it properly. The part I am talking about is the rigid plastic GRILL that is attached directly to the door. It protrudes from the door when it is open and when you close the door, it is positioned directly over/above the actual (metal) lint filter screen. In your video, you see this part at minute 2:30, on the right-side of the video, attached to the door. Do you know what that part number might be? And does it attach/detach with screws?
@@markmorganemail okay. I did a lot of hunting cause it was bothering me. Looks like they don’t sell the part alone. You have to buy the gasket, inner door and that piece. It’s here www.pwslaundry.com/i-23862014-speed-queen-d510163wp-dryer-assy-liner-seal-grill-pkg.html That’s for my model number dryer. May be different for yours.
@@Samlol23_drrich Looks very similar to the door on my model. It is definitely worth a shot. Thank you SO MUCH for your help on finding this. The grate that is on there now is really chewing up people's clothes.
How tight should the belt be? No one ever says that on these videos. Mine popped the thermal fuse and I think the belt is loose and caused that by not letting the air flow out. The vent is not blocked , Ive already checked
I don't know that they're adjustable. I would think replacing your stretched one with a new one will fix any issues you might have if it is belt related
@@Samlol23_drrich I dont mean is it adjustable, i mean how to I tell if my belt is stretched or bad? How tight should it be? I can easily pull it off the drum and compress the tensioner spring, it seems too loose to me but im used to car belts
@@jeedwards1981 I'm sorry I misunderstood you . There's an idler pulley with a spring that applies the proper tension to the belt. I am definitely not an expert so you may want to take this with a grain of salt but I would open the front and look at the idler spring and pulley and if it's pulled all the way back in other words the spring is fully compressed and its smallest that would mean the belt is stretched out so much that the idler spring can't even add tension then I would replace the belt but if the spring looks like it's supplying some tension then I don't know if changing the belt is going to make a difference if that makes sense it will just make the idler pulley and spring sit in a different orientation I hope that makes sense belts are cheap enough that I would try it but honestly my guess is it's not the belt you may need another idler spring
In retrospect I should absolutely have installed a new SPRING onto the idler arm while I had everything apart. oh well. You should do that if you have everything apart.
We own and service hundreds of commercial and residential Speed Queen dryers, and I'm not sure why you felt you need to replace the spring, or the idler arm. In about 14 years in the business I have not needed to replace either one. In fact, this was also the first time I have seen the cylinder glides replaced. And we usually remove the cylinder wheels with the snap ring at the front of the shaft, but if someone doesn't have snap ring pliers, your way worked too, so good job! It was very nostalgic to watch this video, I remember my first washer and dryer set in the pre-RUclips 80's and what an adventure it was to dive head first into similar repairs, I would have loved to have seen this video then! For future reference, it is the access panel(front bottom), front panel, front bulkhead, cylinder, rear bulkhead. Also, the complete exhaust motor assembly is held in place by the wire connector, 2 screws, and a wire harness clip similar to the front door switch wire clip, so it is pretty easy to take it out to work on it, blow it out etc. For a full parts manual .pdf with diagrams go to www.partsking.com/manuals/ select Alliance Dryers and search by your model number, and see if it gives you the same idler arm part number you bought that didn't have the right holes, I was surprised it would be different, but again I have never had to replace one because there is really no way I have seen to damage one so far. We have probably dozens of different models of SQ dryers, and they all take the same exhaust motor assemblies which we swap out in the field as needed with a rebuilt exhaust motor assy. The bad (usually froze up) exhaust motor assemblies we disassemble, clean and rebuild in the shop. All we usually need to replace is the motor and the idler wheel/bearing assy. the rest gets washed off or blown out before the new motor goes on. Washing machine motors have an idler arm too, and they can get bent in several different ways due to overloading, dryers not so much. Good job!
@@GmanMe how did I not see this comment when you left it last month. Great! Thanks for all of that info, I really appreciate it. I'm sure I didnt need to replace many of those parts, like the belt, and glides, but i figured ill just replace it all. The parts are cheap, my free time isn't. I do at least 2 washe cycle every day. Not a commercial amount but more than most. Besides replacing the plastic knobs and the main cycle timer, the machine has served me well. Thanks again for all the info. I'll look at the pdf diagram and manual for sure
Not sure about Australia, but here in the USA, there are many online websites that sell parts. For example appliancepartspros.com Check online to see first!
www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.pwslaundry.com/files/docs/alliance/ALPM-60549.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiPgfndmKbtAhWwVzABHagHD9sQFjADegQIBxAB&usg=AOvVaw0Vy6oRQpcd3cyXKUjUGI18&cshid=1606599336509 Pages 35 and 36
@@Samlol23_drrich omg dude! Youre so awesome! Yea i couldnt find the manuel, and i couldnt locate the thermal fuse. The dryer...stopped drying. I watched your video on cleaning, but the dryer still wouldnt heat. With this, this is perfect. Now i can find it! Thanks a million!!!
Hey Samlo. ! Alex here I didn't know you had a channel. Great Job!! I have a few dryers at the property I work for. We have to do preventive maintenance just like this twice a year. Do you think once a year is enough? I have 12 tenants per building.
You definitely have a lot more expertise on this than I do having watched you work. This is my house- I do at least 1 or 2 loads a day 7 days a week, but its not commercial which can be a lot more than that. Having said that, I think once a year is plenty. You do great work, by the way, and I learned a lot from your channel! Thanks for watching and commenting
parts.alliancelaundry.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6oHN-JDlggMVzk9HAR1xXAisEAAYASAAEgIZu_D_BwE Speed queen is made by Alliance laundry. Google alliance laundry parts also.
Hi. What tool are you using to remove the screw for the lint holder? I want to make sure I get the correct tool. Is it two separate items? thanks in advance
It’s the same 5/16 nut driver that is used to take the front panel off. Something like this. www.amazon.com/dp/B001BY0ESW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_DM09DE8EYZ1MBDDT0TXG Thanks for watching!
I actually tried with some pliers (they have very thin like scissors pointy shape) and I was causing more damage around the screw area, and it seemed like the screw was coming loose but having a hard time getting a grip of it which was causing the damage
@@MariaOrtiz-mh4bv can I ask why you want to take it off? If its just to clean down there I wouldn't bother. I would get the nut driver. You can probably get one cheaper than the one I linked to. If you're not going to use it often get a really cheap one. Good luck
That belt replacement seems like a chore, considering you need both hands and you don't have clear line of sight. What where the "engineers" thinking? 😔
Not a dumb question. I have a hobbyist woodworking shop in my basement, so it’s a Hepa dust collector by Festool. It’s this www.festoolusa.com/products/dust-extraction/mobile-dust-extractors/577083---ct-26-e-hepa-us
Psw laundry parts has lots of speedqueen parts. I got some there but my go to is appliancepartspros.com Not affiliated with them but they are the best. Fastest shipping and great selection. I always try them first
Thanks! About 30 years ago I lost my first present to myself before I had kids, a nice breitling watch. I used to take it off whenever I did anything, and one day I couldn’t find it. Because I took it off so often I wasn’t sure whether the leather strap failed and it fell off, or I took it off to,do something and forgot to put it back on. When I got the sub I vowed to always keep it on, so I wouldn’t lose it. I’ve worn it 24/7 365 since new- except after it’s first service I no longer take it under water even though I probably could. Good luck with the repair. And thanks for commenting.
There are a couple of places. Appliancepartspros.com is one, pwslaundry.com is great also. What type of part are you looking for? Your best bet is to find the diagram, get the part number and shop it that way
Here is a way to get extralong life out of your rollers and belt deflector. Before installing new ones, I suggest soaking the bearing material in oil for a day. I've done this by taping over one side of the bearing and laying it flat on that side. Then I pour oil (not wd40, but a thicker oil than wd40) into to opening and let it sit for a day. Some bearings believe it or not, actually absorb oil. I am not an expert, so I do not know for sure that these bearings are of the sintered type. Before using this routine, my rollers would wear out very fast. I don't exactly remember how many months I got out of a set, but I do remember that the first set was replaced under warranty on my unit that was purchased in 2011. I think it was 3 years for the original and then 3 years for the first replacement installed without using this oil technique. I know the last time I installed new rollers was in 2017 (this being January 2024). They are still working fine. However, I took them out yesterday and the shafts were starting to wear so this dryer was just about to start squeaking. So I would say you can get 5 to 6 years when oiled well at installation time. I am thinking that in 5 years I should try to just oil these bearings and see if they would last indefinitely. However, getting oil back to those bearings (including the belt deflector) still on the dryer is not going to be easy.
Here is a way to get extra long life out of your rollers. Before installing new rollers, I suggest soaking the bearing material in oil for a day. I've done this by taping over one side of the bearing and laying it flat on that side. Then I pour oil (not wd40, but a thicker oil than wd40) into to opening and let it sit for a day. Bearings believe it or not, actually absorb oil. Before using this routine, my rollers would wear out very fast. I don't exactly remember how many months I got out of a set, but I do remember that the first set was replaced under warranty on my unit that was purchased in 2009. I know the last time I installed new rollers was in 2017 (this being January 2024). They are still working fine.
That’s great advice. Never heard of that but I’m going to pin your comment. If I ever do this again I Will certainly give it a try. Thank you.
@@Samlol23_drrich I have more information about oiling. I could not edit the above post (system would not let me), so I am adding a new post with more up to date information.
@@lynn_temperxx7124 bearing should be seal with grease in it...
I use zoom spout when it comes to servicing roller wheels, idler pulley, motor etc.
Good job giving us a look at how the belt is oriented with the idler pulley and motor shaft. Awkward as heck! Thank you!
Top notch video. No kidding, this video saved me a couple hundred bucks. Thank you and God bless you.
Thanks very much!
Spot On !!! Had same issue. Bearings on them rollers were out making a squeak noise. All good now, thank you! Great video.
Thanks for the video. I swapping driers between our two houses. The house we just bought has a bottom exhaust. And it's handy to see how to take it apart to reroute the exhaust. Thank you very much.
Thank you very much Sam! Those like me wanting informations on how to open a Huebsch dryer cannot find this info on You Tube. After noticing that most parts were the same as for Speed Queen dryer, I went back on YT and found your video with everything I needed. Keep up your good work.
Really glad i was able to help! And thanks for commenting
For the most part, except for the brand name and probably model numbers, Huebsch and Speed Queen are both manufactured by Alliance Laundry Systems, and apples for apples should be identical. Granted, there are dozens if not hundreds of model numbers for Alliance machines, so parts/controls may vary based on model and serial numbers, but it is likely that the same parts changed on similar models of both brands. A handy resource for Alliance and other manufacturers machines is the Parts King webpage for parts manuals where you can select the machine category, in this case "Alliance Dryers", and then scroll down to the model number for your machine. Clicking the link for your model will bring up a downloadable .pdf parts list for your machine including exploded diagrams for each part and or assembly.
www.partsking.com/manuals/
Excellent video. I used your instructions to open my machine and clean it thoroughly. Saved me a lot of money!
Very helpful video! Thanks for doing the tutorial!
Thanks for the nice comment!
Excellent video!
Thanks. It makes up for my mostly crappy ones!
This is an Excellent Video! I never thought I would understand what you did today. I am so happy. I am a female and never had to work on anything like this. Thank You
Great video, thanks for posting. I bought one used and thought it was a bit noisy. After disassembling my dryer, come to find out it’s completely fine. Everything rolls smoothly just that the drum rubbing against the felt is what I’m hearing as it runs.
You saved me a service call! Thank you for your clear explanation and excellent video!!
Thanks very much for the kind words. Glad I could help!
Great video. My heater went out on mine and after I determined I could not access it from the rear, I then removed the drum to gain access to it with the help of watching this video. The heater is in the bottom left corner as has two screws holding it in. After checking everything out, I decided to replace the same parts you, including the idler arm spring since its all open. On the drum, mine had some rubber roller build up on the drum causing small bumps, so I used some fine sandpaper to remove it. Using an old toothbrush, I cleaned all the blower fins off as they had a good build up of dirt/lint. Behind the dryer door, you can locate the model # and on SpeedQueens website, you can use that to find the parts manual with a parts break down. I went through appliance parts pro for replacement parts.
John Householder glad it helped, even a little. I love appliance parts pros. They ship very fast and have an easy to navigate website. Thanks for commenting.
Thank you for making this video. It was very helpful.
This is a very helpful video, thank you for sharing.
Thank you for taking the time to write a nice comment. Its much appreciated!
Thank you so much for this video.
I have the same dryer and need to do exactly what you did. Your video will save me a lot of misery and frustration.
In fact, not only do I have the exact same dryer I even have the exact same watch you are wearing.
You are a braver man than me.
When I do mine I am going to take off my Rolex first.
I am amazed you didn't beat yours to death doing the repair.
Mine is going to sit this repair out.
Other than that perfect video.
But I admit I cringed every time I saw your Rolex going back inside the Dryer.
I just knew it was going to be scratched up mercilessly but yours survived.
Mine is going to stay on the dresser until it is done.
Great job.
Thanks! most of my videos have a very small audience, since I'm not an expert in most things I post but will try to fix anything. As my dad once said, "just don't be afraid- it's already broken...what's the worst thing that could happen?" and I have been living those words fairly successfully.
As far as the watch- about fifteen years ago I had a Breitling ( the first nice watch I got when I started working) that I used to take off every night, every time I did anything. On, off, on off. Well it disappeared. No idea where it went. And I am extremely responsible. I looked for a full year before I decided it wasn't coming back. When I got the Rolex, I decided I was not going to take it off- ever. So I have worn it basically 24/7 since then. The only time I take it off now, is when I go into the water, since after about 12 years of perfect timekeeping the band broke at the clasp. I sent it to a place in California and they wouldnt fix the band without me doing a full service as well. So I went ahead- and they provided a five year warranty which excluded water when I read the fine print. I figured that if they are excluding water, and they had to break the factory seal to do the service, I would take if off to swim and shower. So that's what I do. It's extremely bullet proof and scratch proof- I have hit it into everything possible.
Thanks for the comment and good luck with your repair!
Thank you! I have the same model and was afraid to tackle it. Mine had the same wheel bad. Took less than an hour to fix, but another hour of precleaning before the fix.
Gotta love you tube. Right? I've also tackled lots of things I never would have.
Hi. I'm from South Africa. Thank you for your tutorial. It helped me a lot
Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment- always nice to hear something positive
I did the same thing last spring on my SQ dryer but a few more steps. 2 screws that hold the metal tube pulled out to clean out as there was alot of lint there. Also screen in back where heating element is make sure no lint there as that can cause a fire. My belt snapped and roller made noise. I had far more lint then you as the trap door was not opening properly causing it to not dry as airflow was poor. Replaced lint door where it is at the wall to outside. Finally I cleaned the drum esp. at where the rollers ride. I would recommend at least once a year take cover off to remove lint as dryers are lint and dust magnets.
Are you talking about the tube that runs from the blower motor in front out to the back of the dryer? I didn’t even think to do that, great idea. Next time I will. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks Sam, You saved me a ton of time and heart burn!
A very helpful video man, thank you for taking the time.
I removed mine dryer from the w/d closet and set it in the garage, make maneuvers a lot easier.
I lay it on its back to reinstall the drum.
Always an adventure at my house. Working on my dishwasher now. Frigging leak and the prior owner was too lazy to grout under it. So water went under the tile and I've gotta redo my tile too .
Thanks for commenting
Thank you so much
Thank you so much, I have to replace the seal felt and had no idea how to approach this task. You make it look easy.
Ants Coetz thanks. That’s cause it is easy! Good luck
Very instructive!! I had the same problem on my Speed Queen dryer as well, so I simply followed your example to switch out the noisy rollers in the back of the unit. I wouldn't have bothered to attempt the repair without this video. Thanks!
Really appreciate the comment.
Thank you so much for this. The first video had a lot of valuable information already, and now seeing it all open up is so, so helpful. Greatly appreciated.
Thanks for commenting and I’m glad it was helpful.
Thank you for this video. I was able to fix my dryer and I have never fixed anything before!!
Never hurts to try. Ive done things i never thought i could thanks to other people on You Tube. As someone used to say on The A team "i love it when a plan comes together" thanks for watching and commenting
Can’t thank you enough for this video! I have the same unit, needed to change rollers and belt, your video was a true lifesaver! You did an excellent job explaining each step, I especially liked the ideas of marking the wire order on the harnesses and putting the one longer bolt for lint trap in the trap while working on the rest of the dryer in order not to lose it or get it mixed up with the others, which are all the same. Again, just want to thank you for your efforts to create this video, it was exactly what I needed! 🤗💕🌸
Thanks for those very kind words, and am glad my video helped!
For real tho thanks for the vid
Thank you
This is the help I needed
Thanks for sharing, excellent video!👍🏻
You crushed it man! Great instrumental video. Concise, detailed but not overly, narrated clearly as well. I plan on doing my one today. Only it's 5/16" not "9/16.
Thanks for commenting. Much appreciated
Helpful video, I'm having electrical problems with mine and couldn't figure out how to get the top open to look at the wires coming up from the bottom. Also, you might be the only guy ever to work on a dryer whilst wearing a Rolex, here I am worried about scratching a Garmin LOL.
I believe there are four or five screws Along the back edge of the top panel and it flips forward. I had to replace the entire mechanism for the timer that controls all the drying Cycles. Once you tilt it forward you can get to and test all the wiring. I seem to recall it all being from the back.
Ps I had this watch for over Seventeen years and I wear it 24/7 365 cause it just keeps running and i dont have to think about it. Thanks for commenting
Great job. Great tutorial. The only thing you didn't show is finding and then recovering the missing screws from where some body kicked them under the washing machine.
Ha! Am I that somebody?? Sounds about right. I always leave extra screws under the machine in case I need them later! Thanks for commenting.
Thanks - excellent tutorial
Thank you.
You helped a ton man thanks!!
Glad it helped! Thanks for letting me know.
thanks a lot for sharing, greatly appreciated!
My pleasure!
Thanks this video is a tremendous help and I can impress my Honeybun with my skills ;)
Glad it helped. Happened to be sitting with my iPad when your comment came in.
Great job! Well explained.👍🏻
Here is a way to get extralong life out of your rollers and belt deflector. Before installing new ones, I suggest soaking the bearing material in oil for a day. I've done this by taping over one side of the bearing and laying it flat on that side. Then I pour oil (not wd40, but a thicker oil than wd40) into to opening and let it sit for a day. Some bearings believe it or not, actually absorb oil. I am not an expert, so I do not know for sure that these bearings are of the sintered type. Before using this routine, my rollers would wear out very fast. I don't exactly remember how many months I got out of a set, but I do remember that the first set was replaced under warranty on my unit that was purchased in 2011. I think it was 3 years for the original and then 3 years for the first replacement installed without using this oil technique. I know the last time I installed new rollers was in 2017 (this being January 2024). They are still working fine. However, I took them out yesterday and the shafts were starting to wear so this dryer was just about to start squeaking. So I would say you can get 5 to 6 years when oiled well at installation time. I am thinking that in 5 years I should try to just oil these bearings and see if they would last indefinitely. However, getting oil back to those bearings (including the belt deflector) still on the dryer is not going to be easy.
Useful video. Thanks.
@@irinastacy6635 most of my others are useless, so I’ll take it as a compliment! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks for the excellent video. However, I have a WORD OF WARNING to folks out there. The motor on my Speed Queen dryer died, and I planned to replace it following the disassembly instructions in this video. It wasn't until I had already ordered the replacement motor and tried to remove it that I discovered you CANNOT REMOVE THE MOTOR FROM THE BLOWER. It's impossible without breaking the blower. If you want to replace the motor, you HAVE TO ORDER THE MOTOR/BLOWER COMBO. I hope this comment saves someone somewhere some heartache (and about $200). However, this video is excellent, and thanks again for the great instructions.
William Cornell that’s really good to know. Are you talking about the blower wheel? I probably would have made the same mistake as you. Did it look like this? ( I know it’s a Maytag linked ruclips.net/video/aFssz2ZrU_c/видео.html )
@@Samlol23_drrich Similar, but if it's attached to the motor shaft the same way then Speed Queen didn't make any of the metal parts accessible. The blower wheel has what looks like a large plastic nut (22mm) in the middle, and it even has an arrow and words to indicate turn left to remove. Nothing is accessible beyond this plastic nut. However, it absolutely does not budge. Eventually, the plastic nut itself broke free from the blower basket, and it STILL wouldn't come loose. Since it was already broke, I took a chisel to it, and it really does appear to be designed as a composite piece. Speed Queen apparently designed this model so that the entire blower/motor section was to be replaced as one entity. It was a very frustrating experience on my end. PWS Laundry does appear to sell the entire blower/motor unit, but I had already ordered the separate motor in the foolish believe that removing the blower basket couldn't possibly be too difficult. I hope everyone learns from my (expensive) mistake!
@@williamcornell5001 wow. Thanks again for the info. Its only a matter of time before mine goes. Eventually everything fails!
@@williamcornell5001 The blower fan assembly does (usually) come off, but every once in a while, like one in fifty, the nut is stripped and just turns. We usually save up the bad exhaust fan assemblies where the motors have frozen up and do several up to a dozen at a time. One guy holds the motor pulley with channel locks and the other turns off the blower fan assembly (we use a 4-way tire iron). We disassemble the blower housing assembly, remove the motors, rinse off all of the non-electric parts, allow them to dry and put it all back together with a new motor then they are as good as new. Definitely a good idea to replace the idler wheel and bearing assembly at the same time, everything else should be fresh, clean and good to go. And of course if you have come this far, replacing the cylinder rollers and belt is a good idea as well.
Depending on the age of the machine, inspect the cylinder roller shafts too, they may require some light buffing with emery cloth if there is any corrosion buildup, and if the rollers were bad for a long time the roller shaft(s) may require replacement if they are worn.
@@GmanMe Depending on design It may have a keyway to remove to get squirrel cage off. An OLD trick is to heat shaft with heat gun to help get it to slide off. They may make it to be pressed on/off. Then you need a puller to remove but be careful as you can damage squirrel cage. Hope this helps.
Great video very very helpful and informative 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks. Appreciate the comment. Most of the videos I plan to make don't get done cause I'm lazy.
This was one of the few that I planned that actually worked out.
@@Samlol23_drrich I'm glad it is lol just got it back together and running good
Travis Brantner good job. Always relieved when it works at the end.....
Thanks, should the felt be replaced at the same time?
That's what I did starting at around 9:00. Not sure it was necessary but I figured since it was apart
@@Samlol23_drrich I meant the felt gasket around the drum.
@muxxor9492 I didn't do that and it has been fine ever since
My new dyer front load has a vibration sound on right side. If I press on cabinet it stops. What do you think is in there that is vibrating? I see some wires on yours.
You needed some snap ring pliers to do the drum wheels. You sure did it the hard way.
Thats funny. Im gonna have to re-watch the video. I've got internal and external snap ring pliers- a whole set of them. I just didn't see the ring. Thanks!
Well i was in process of doing same thing. After tearing it apart the shaft that's attached to the blower spins freely so i have to replace that as well since that's what spins the drum. Hopefully i don't have to replace the whole motor. Well back to work.
Are you sure there isnt a small allen screw that came loose? You should plug it in and see what spins (motorwise). If everything is apart, just reconnect the switch and tape it closed. (Or short the 2 switch wires if u know which they are)
@@Samlol23_drrich no Allen screws. It's a threaded shaft. It ripped all the threads so that piece just sits there and sits nothing if I spin the motor.
Matt Kuhlman bad time for that to break. Hopefully you can get the part.....
@@Samlol23_drrich tell me about it. I pay extra for consumers to fix these things for no charge and with pandemic im stuck trying to fix it myself for a cost.
@@mkuhlman77 my go to source is appliancepartspros.com
Also, pwslaundry.com
Ive bought parts from both. They have.exploded parts diagrams, etc
Hey Sam, great video. Thx for sharing. Is there any other way to get to the thermal fuse and the other elements without removing the drum/cylinder?
Mosi Forde I believe the thermal fuse is on the back wall inside the dryer, bottom left side. You could just take off the first 2 screws on the bottom kick panel, take a flashlight and see if it’s accessible. You would definitely need to stick your arms way in there and lie on the floor. It probably could be done though, my suggestion would be to stick your cellphone in the opening and take photos of everything first, so you can easily see what’s going on before committing
The thermal fuse assembly on a Speed Queen dryer is attached to the heater assembly, which is attached at the base of the heater duct and located directly beneath the left roller. It would be tough to get to without removing the cylinder, although I know some guys who remove the front bulkhead and tilt the cylinder out and reach through it to get to the rollers and the thermal fuse. And don't forget to unplug the machine! For a .pdf parts manual with diagrams lookup your machine by model number at the Parts King manuals page. www.partsking.com/manuals/
Yes, it is crazy easy to service everything from the front. Take the front cover off. Look to the rear there are two 9/16 head screws just like on the front panel that hold the thermostat/coil assembly in there. Take the two screws out and then slide the coil assembly down and out. Commercial = easy front service.
Thanks for your hardwork man! Hey I was wondering though I know Lowes has some dryer belts but are they compatible with these Speed Queens. I don't want to order from a parts site and have to wait for a weeI or more due to the holidays. What is the length of that belt also if you remember?
I think you're gonna have to order it online and pay for expedited shipping. A lot of these places will get it to you by Tuesday if you order today. Its part D511255P.
The length is 46.25", width is 0.3125" and height is 0.125" according to webstaurantstore.com website. I looked it up for you. Good luck. I would get the oem part only online. Just my 2 cents.
@@Samlol23_drrich Okay I gotcha yeah I only found one website with my model. It is an older model but it would cost 33 dollars and the earliest they could get it is December 28th.
i replaced my rollers and a new belt and its even louder. like a waterfall & clanking sound, no squeaking
@@IWBVS I don’t think t(at should happen. Are you sure the drum is in correctly and is sitting properly? Mine sounded like new. No waterfall and no clanking.
@@Samlol23_drrich I’ll have to take it apart again. Think it could be the pulley?
probably not, unless the drum isn't sitting on it correctly.
Looks nearly identical to Maytags Stream of Heat dryer design used from 1973-2006. I guess the old saying about imitation being the sincerest form of flattery is true.
It probably is. I think the speed queen parts and diagrams are extremely close if not interchangeable in some cases. Thanks for the comment.
Great informestion.
Very good camera work! I found you on google and your video was the closest to identifying a problem I need to fix: The plastic lint-trap cover that is attached to the door has become brittle and is cracking and developing holes in the grate, which leaves sharp plastic edges that snag clothes and cause runs during a drying cycle. Do you know what the name of the replacement part is for this plastic housing, or better yet the speed-queen part number? Or, is it sufficient to remove that whole piece from the door and rely on that plastic insert that you placed in/on top of the actual lint screen itself?
Thanks for the compliment. I would absolutely replace the screen. Otherwise lint will get through. My lint screen isn't in the door. Is yours? If you have the exact model number I can show you how to find the part number and replace it. I usually go on appliancepartspros.com they have almost everything.
@@Samlol23_drrich Yes, I definitely think I should replace it. Thanks for the reassurance. So, I think I did not describe it properly. The part I am talking about is the rigid plastic GRILL that is attached directly to the door. It protrudes from the door when it is open and when you close the door, it is positioned directly over/above the actual (metal) lint filter screen. In your video, you see this part at minute 2:30, on the right-side of the video, attached to the door. Do you know what that part number might be? And does it attach/detach with screws?
Let me look when I get home.
@@markmorganemail okay. I did a lot of hunting cause it was bothering me. Looks like they don’t sell the part alone. You have to buy the gasket, inner door and that piece. It’s here
www.pwslaundry.com/i-23862014-speed-queen-d510163wp-dryer-assy-liner-seal-grill-pkg.html
That’s for my model number dryer. May be different for yours.
@@Samlol23_drrich Looks very similar to the door on my model. It is definitely worth a shot. Thank you SO MUCH for your help on finding this. The grate that is on there now is really chewing up people's clothes.
Grateful
How tight should the belt be? No one ever says that on these videos. Mine popped the thermal fuse and I think the belt is loose and caused that by not letting the air flow out. The vent is not blocked , Ive already checked
I don't know that they're adjustable. I would think replacing your stretched one with a new one will fix any issues you might have if it is belt related
@@Samlol23_drrich I dont mean is it adjustable, i mean how to I tell if my belt is stretched or bad? How tight should it be? I can easily pull it off the drum and compress the tensioner spring, it seems too loose to me but im used to car belts
@@jeedwards1981 I'm sorry I misunderstood you . There's an idler pulley with a spring that applies the proper tension to the belt. I am definitely not an expert so you may want to take this with a grain of salt but I would open the front and look at the idler spring and pulley and if it's pulled all the way back in other words the spring is fully compressed and its smallest that would mean the belt is stretched out so much that the idler spring can't even add tension then I would replace the belt but if the spring looks like it's supplying some tension then I don't know if changing the belt is going to make a difference if that makes sense it will just make the idler pulley and spring sit in a different orientation I hope that makes sense belts are cheap enough that I would try it but honestly my guess is it's not the belt you may need another idler spring
Did you try it on a low heat setting? And see if the thermal fuse pops again?
@@Samlol23_drrich the fuse has to be replaced first, Its not like a breaker its a replace only fuse
In retrospect I should absolutely have installed a new SPRING onto the idler arm while I had everything apart. oh well. You should do that if you have everything apart.
We own and service hundreds of commercial and residential Speed Queen dryers, and I'm not sure why you felt you need to replace the spring, or the idler arm. In about 14 years in the business I have not needed to replace either one. In fact, this was also the first time I have seen the cylinder glides replaced.
And we usually remove the cylinder wheels with the snap ring at the front of the shaft, but if someone doesn't have snap ring pliers, your way worked too, so good job!
It was very nostalgic to watch this video, I remember my first washer and dryer set in the pre-RUclips 80's and what an adventure it was to dive head first into similar repairs, I would have loved to have seen this video then!
For future reference, it is the access panel(front bottom), front panel, front bulkhead, cylinder, rear bulkhead. Also, the complete exhaust motor assembly is held in place by the wire connector, 2 screws, and a wire harness clip similar to the front door switch wire clip, so it is pretty easy to take it out to work on it, blow it out etc.
For a full parts manual .pdf with diagrams go to www.partsking.com/manuals/ select Alliance Dryers and search by your model number, and see if it gives you the same idler arm part number you bought that didn't have the right holes, I was surprised it would be different, but again I have never had to replace one because there is really no way I have seen to damage one so far.
We have probably dozens of different models of SQ dryers, and they all take the same exhaust motor assemblies which we swap out in the field as needed with a rebuilt exhaust motor assy. The bad (usually froze up) exhaust motor assemblies we disassemble, clean and rebuild in the shop. All we usually need to replace is the motor and the idler wheel/bearing assy. the rest gets washed off or blown out before the new motor goes on.
Washing machine motors have an idler arm too, and they can get bent in several different ways due to overloading, dryers not so much.
Good job!
I literally am at the part where I need to put the belt on and couldn't figure it out for well this is the second day cuz the pulley broke hahahahah
@@GmanMe how did I not see this comment when you left it last month. Great! Thanks for all of that info, I really appreciate it. I'm sure I didnt need to replace many of those parts, like the belt, and glides, but i figured ill just replace it all. The parts are cheap, my free time isn't. I do at least 2 washe cycle every day. Not a commercial amount but more than most. Besides replacing the plastic knobs and the main cycle timer, the machine has served me well.
Thanks again for all the info. I'll look at the pdf diagram and manual for sure
How old is that dryer?
I am tempted to buy a second jand one in australia but can i buy parts if a fix is needed ?
Not sure about Australia, but here in the USA, there are many online websites that sell parts. For example appliancepartspros.com
Check online to see first!
How much more difficult is to completely break it down to take down some narrow steps?
Honestly I'm not sure. Its a matter of taking the side apart from the back. Good luck though
All i need to do is replace the fuses. I cant seem to locate them tho
What kind of fuse are you talking about? The thermal fuse?
www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.pwslaundry.com/files/docs/alliance/ALPM-60549.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiPgfndmKbtAhWwVzABHagHD9sQFjADegQIBxAB&usg=AOvVaw0Vy6oRQpcd3cyXKUjUGI18&cshid=1606599336509
Pages 35 and 36
@@Samlol23_drrich omg dude! Youre so awesome! Yea i couldnt find the manuel, and i couldnt locate the thermal fuse. The dryer...stopped drying. I watched your video on cleaning, but the dryer still wouldnt heat. With this, this is perfect. Now i can find it! Thanks a million!!!
@@elfman010 glad I could help.
Hey Samlo. ! Alex here I didn't know you had a channel. Great Job!! I have a few dryers at the property I work for. We have to do preventive maintenance just like this twice a year. Do you think once a year is enough? I have 12 tenants per building.
You definitely have a lot more expertise on this than I do having watched you work.
This is my house- I do at least 1 or 2 loads a day 7 days a week, but its not commercial which can be a lot more than that. Having said that, I think once a year is plenty.
You do great work, by the way, and I learned a lot from your channel! Thanks for watching and commenting
Where did you get the parts?
parts.alliancelaundry.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6oHN-JDlggMVzk9HAR1xXAisEAAYASAAEgIZu_D_BwE
Speed queen is made by Alliance laundry. Google alliance laundry parts also.
Hi. What tool are you using to remove the screw for the lint holder? I want to make sure I get the correct tool. Is it two separate items? thanks in advance
It’s the same 5/16 nut driver that is used to take the front panel off. Something like this. www.amazon.com/dp/B001BY0ESW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_DM09DE8EYZ1MBDDT0TXG
Thanks for watching!
thank you so much for the update and help
@@MariaOrtiz-mh4bv if you have an inexpensive socket wrench set at home the 5/16 will work as well, so you don’t need to buy anything.
I actually tried with some pliers (they have very thin like scissors pointy shape) and I was causing more damage around the screw area, and it seemed like the screw was coming loose but having a hard time getting a grip of it which was causing the damage
@@MariaOrtiz-mh4bv can I ask why you want to take it off? If its just to clean down there I wouldn't bother. I would get the nut driver. You can probably get one cheaper than the one I linked to. If you're not going to use it often get a really cheap one. Good luck
That belt replacement seems like a chore, considering you need both hands and you don't have clear line of sight. What where the "engineers" thinking? 😔
We know what they were thinking......."they'll just buy a new one" thanks for watching
Good video, dumb question, what vacuum are you using?
Not a dumb question. I have a hobbyist woodworking shop in my basement, so it’s a Hepa dust collector by Festool. It’s this www.festoolusa.com/products/dust-extraction/mobile-dust-extractors/577083---ct-26-e-hepa-us
Where do you get parts?
Psw laundry parts has lots of speedqueen parts. I got some there but my go to is appliancepartspros.com
Not affiliated with them but they are the best. Fastest shipping and great selection. I always try them first
Great video, I will be doing this same Repair next week, but PLEASE, the next time you do one of these Video, Remove your Beautiful Rolex.
Thanks! About 30 years ago I lost my first present to myself before I had kids, a nice breitling watch. I used to take it off whenever I did anything, and one day I couldn’t find it. Because I took it off so often I wasn’t sure whether the leather strap failed and it fell off, or I took it off to,do something and forgot to put it back on.
When I got the sub I vowed to always keep it on, so I wouldn’t lose it. I’ve worn it 24/7 365 since new- except after it’s first service I no longer take it under water even though I probably could. Good luck with the repair. And thanks for commenting.
Hi i have the same dryer, can you please tell me where do you buy the part, I'm having a dificult time trying to get them
There are a couple of places. Appliancepartspros.com is one, pwslaundry.com is great also. What type of part are you looking for? Your best bet is to find the diagram, get the part number and shop it that way
@@Samlol23_drrich tanks you'e really nice
@@Samlol23_drrich You can also Call Appliancepartspro.com with the model # and they can help you on part numbers and cost.
One thumbs down from a dryer repair tech.
There is this cool new technology called a tripod…
Mine only has 2 legs.
Will you come over my house and fix my dryer?
Haaaa. Whats wrong with it? Usually not too tough. As they say, if its already broken you have nothing to lose!
Here is a way to get extralong life out of your rollers and belt deflector. Before installing new ones, I suggest soaking the bearing material in oil for a day. I've done this by taping over one side of the bearing and laying it flat on that side. Then I pour oil (not wd40, but a thicker oil than wd40) into to opening and let it sit for a day. Some bearings believe it or not, actually absorb oil. I am not an expert, so I do not know for sure that these bearings are of the sintered type. Before using this routine, my rollers would wear out very fast. I don't exactly remember how many months I got out of a set, but I do remember that the first set was replaced under warranty on my unit that was purchased in 2011. I think it was 3 years for the original and then 3 years for the first replacement installed without using this oil technique. I know the last time I installed new rollers was in 2017 (this being January 2024). They are still working fine. However, I took them out yesterday and the shafts were starting to wear so this dryer was just about to start squeaking. So I would say you can get 5 to 6 years when oiled well at installation time. I am thinking that in 5 years I should try to just oil these bearings and see if they would last indefinitely. However, getting oil back to those bearings (including the belt deflector) still on the dryer is not going to be easy.
Thank you so much