A near-identical R1 was (effectively) my very first loco back in the mid-1970s. I'd had a (pre-owned) black R52 Jinty for Christmas, with some track and a few new wagons, as my first model railway. When the Jinty's coupling rods fell off, my Dad took it back to the shop but as they didn't have another Jinty, he picked up a bright green R1 like this. It had a metal Dublo coupling on the front, and a Tri-ang/Hornby tension-lock glued under the cab. It was never a great runner and once I had acquired some other locos, the R1 became my Dad's to run on the layout with a few Dublo and Playcraft wagons he bought. I still have the R1 (and the wagons) and last year I dug it out and overhauled it to give it a run in his memory. It needed a new chimney cap and brushes, and the paint/decals have seen better days, but it brings back happy memories of him and of my early layouts. Thanks for another great video.
Hi Bill, Another good Video. My Green R1 cost £1.17.6 in 1960 (1 year after the start of HD 2 rail). Lots of odd jobs to supplement pocket money went into this purchase. I still have the original box. A couple of years ago I had the armature ‘lap wound’ and the slow running improved dramatically. I’ve got a new wheel set to replace the worn out originals and need a replacement chimney cap as I overtightened the body screw (senior moment!). Such a robust toy that has given so much pleasure in my hobby. Still in regular use as a test Loco when laying new code 100 track. Happy Modelling. Tony 🚂 23:39
In US craft stores you can find two-part silicone putty for mold making. It has the consistency of plasticine when uncured, but cures to a firm rubber. It stands up well to having Milliput jammed into it.
Another fabulous repair of a classic model. I think these old Hornby Dublo / Wrenn models are fantastic, especially the metal bodied ones. My Castle (renumbered 7037, "Swindon") remains my favourite model loco 45 years on.
Ah the Hornby Dublo 0-6-0....the first 2 rail loco produced by Hornby Dublo. And this bright eyed 6 year old found this in his Xmas stocking back in 1961 and what followed was a love of anything Dublo! A bit of miracle really as Dublo was always expensive compared to their rivals and our family was always short of cash! Dublo models are nicely over engineered! The R1 has a very distinctive sound its one model that you can identify just by its sound. You have inspired me to try moulding parts with epoxy-never tried that before. Great videos!
I have a lump of brown Japanese 'rubber' that softens in a saucepan of boiling water and can be pressed around anything, such as coach bogie sides , really complicated, detailed masters. Once cooled, brass /aluminium dust mixed with Isopon resin or epoxy can be cast and then the stuff easily peeled off. It can simply be heated up and re-used.
Well done Bill - great restoration - lovely to see these old locos put back to use! Thanks for the video. By the way, are you aware of the super glue plus baking soda technique - I've used it quite successfully for fixing broken plastic loco parts. Another technique that I saw a chap use was using paper with super glue to offer support when rebuilding bits and pieces. Cheeers.
I was given a black one of these last year from a house clearance; in its case, the funnel was broken off completely so a donor from an old scrap cover was used. Thought I'd got it into running order but still rough; discovered that there was a wire broken from one of the windings; tricky to fix but managed and now runs remarkably well. It's nearly as old as me! Really enjoying your channel.
Thank you for showing this, an excellent refurb, I have an R1 that also had missing steps, buffers and chimney cap, I bought a badly damaged donor body from a train show for a few quid, and grafted steps from that, the chimney cap I bought as a white metal spare from somewhere. I like the mould idea, I've often wondered about using Milliput as a mould and melting lead into it but as you say, these days with 3D printers, why bother. The "whistles" are safety valves.
Always great to see the end resuts of the work that you do for people to get their models running again. Had I seen this for sale either in my local model railway shop or at a railway show, I no doubt would have thought why would anyone bother with it? But as you have once again shown, you never know unless you give it a go. Well done, look forward to more of your videos.
Hi Bill , another informative video, would love to see you do a 2 rail to 3 rail conversion, perhaps you could squeeze a 3 rail section into your new layout.
Another great repair, sympathetically working with the original and bringing it back to life. I love the idea of moulding with plasticine... I wondered if you chilled the plasticine mould, it would be firmer while you place the milliput / epoxy? I believe epoxy will flow better and lose its bubbles if heated briefly before it cures, I've even seen craft people wave a flame over it to do that. I've never used milliput but it might soften with a bit of heat, worth a try next time. The suggestion in another comment about car-body fillers also sounds good. I love how your channel features and inspires common-sense skills in every episode. Thanks again!
Surprised you used superglue on the body crack, Bill. Pretty certain these bodies are polystyrene and respond well to liquid plastic glue which would melt the plastic together again and give a much stronger bond. (Apply it from the inside to hide the repair.)
Aaah…sounds of the seventies…..great stuff…..didn’t care back then ,they were all noisy. A wee tip maybe if your interested for making bits and bobs ,car body filler may work quite well in your plasticine moulds,it’s a two part mix which has a more fluid consistency causing less damage to your mould,also dries in 15 min approx. Sands down easily ,wet or dry. I have also polished original body paints,very carefully with watered down Autosol on a cotton bud ,then buff with a cotton wool pad,finish with car wax in the same manner comes up really well if your patient .
Enjoyed this one , have you tried using super glue with baking powder it sets like concrete . Ive used it for all sorts. You can file and shape it as well.
Hi Bill, thank you so much for these repair videos! You have inspired to to do some repairs of some my old locos, with some success. Am I right in thinking the ball bearings are one sixteenth of an inch? Thanks.
Bill as ever interesting, may I make a suggestion re the noise, have you ever tried putting thick insulation tape on the inside of the body to help reduce the vibrations
I'm sure I've asked similar of Bill in the past. There's a huge difference in the noise level between 'body off' and 'body on', so I presume the body is acting as a resonant chamber and amplifying the noise. Putting something resilient in the body to absorb the sound ought to reduce that effect, but I haven't yet tried, so I wonder if anyone else has done? I was hoping Bill would one day, but I'm still waiting!
A near-identical R1 was (effectively) my very first loco back in the mid-1970s. I'd had a (pre-owned) black R52 Jinty for Christmas, with some track and a few new wagons, as my first model railway. When the Jinty's coupling rods fell off, my Dad took it back to the shop but as they didn't have another Jinty, he picked up a bright green R1 like this. It had a metal Dublo coupling on the front, and a Tri-ang/Hornby tension-lock glued under the cab. It was never a great runner and once I had acquired some other locos, the R1 became my Dad's to run on the layout with a few Dublo and Playcraft wagons he bought.
I still have the R1 (and the wagons) and last year I dug it out and overhauled it to give it a run in his memory. It needed a new chimney cap and brushes, and the paint/decals have seen better days, but it brings back happy memories of him and of my early layouts.
Thanks for another great video.
Very satisfying bill watching this poor neglected little loco brought back to life, looks and runs really well 👍
Hi Bill, Another good Video. My Green R1 cost £1.17.6 in 1960 (1 year after the start of HD 2 rail). Lots of odd jobs to supplement pocket money went into this purchase. I still have the original box. A couple of years ago I had the armature ‘lap wound’ and the slow running improved dramatically. I’ve got a new wheel set to replace the worn out originals and need a replacement chimney cap as I overtightened the body screw (senior moment!). Such a robust toy that has given so much pleasure in my hobby. Still in regular use as a test Loco when laying new code 100 track.
Happy Modelling. Tony 🚂 23:39
In US craft stores you can find two-part silicone putty for mold making. It has the consistency of plasticine when uncured, but cures to a firm rubber. It stands up well to having Milliput jammed into it.
Absolute cracking repair and video Bill, your patience and attention to detail is amazing.ps cant wait for the rebuild of the layout.
What painstaking work...a great runner and looks superb with those coaches....
You did a cracking job, the Hornby Dublo R1 Tank Engine looks as good as new.
I reckon that'll be good for another 60 years. Excellent work as always.
Another masterful restoration, thanks for sharing.
Another fabulous repair of a classic model.
I think these old Hornby Dublo / Wrenn models are fantastic, especially the metal bodied ones.
My Castle (renumbered 7037, "Swindon") remains my favourite model loco 45 years on.
i dont know why people wouldn't take a second look at this model its quite nice in my opinion
Ah the Hornby Dublo 0-6-0....the first 2 rail loco produced by Hornby Dublo. And this bright eyed 6 year old found this in his Xmas stocking back in 1961 and what followed was a love of anything Dublo! A bit of miracle really as Dublo was always expensive compared to their rivals and our family was always short of cash!
Dublo models are nicely over engineered!
The R1 has a very distinctive sound its one model that you can identify just by its sound. You have inspired me to try moulding parts with epoxy-never tried that before. Great videos!
Nicely done - good to see an old model resurrected.
I have a lump of brown Japanese 'rubber' that softens in a saucepan of boiling water and can be pressed around anything, such as coach bogie sides , really complicated, detailed masters. Once cooled, brass /aluminium dust mixed with Isopon resin or epoxy can be cast and then the stuff easily peeled off. It can simply be heated up and re-used.
Well done Bill - great restoration - lovely to see these old locos put back to use! Thanks for the video. By the way, are you aware of the super glue plus baking soda technique - I've used it quite successfully for fixing broken plastic loco parts. Another technique that I saw a chap use was using paper with super glue to offer support when rebuilding bits and pieces. Cheeers.
Had one of these 60 years ago. Remember removing the bodyshell and oiling as per instructions. Brought back memories.
I was given a black one of these last year from a house clearance; in its case, the funnel was broken off completely so a donor from an old scrap cover was used. Thought I'd got it into running order but still rough; discovered that there was a wire broken from one of the windings; tricky to fix but managed and now runs remarkably well. It's nearly as old as me! Really enjoying your channel.
It's a runner now and it looks almost like new. Good job!
I tend to overcomplicate things and your mold making method is brilliant! Thank you!
Thank you for showing this, an excellent refurb, I have an R1 that also had missing steps, buffers and chimney cap, I bought a badly damaged donor body from a train show for a few quid, and grafted steps from that, the chimney cap I bought as a white metal spare from somewhere. I like the mould idea, I've often wondered about using Milliput as a mould and melting lead into it but as you say, these days with 3D printers, why bother. The "whistles" are safety valves.
Enjoyed this one - nice job, body, paint and all.
Al.
Always great to see the end resuts of the work that you do for people to get their models running again. Had I seen this for sale either in my local model railway shop or at a railway show, I no doubt would have thought why would anyone bother with it? But as you have once again shown, you never know unless you give it a go. Well done, look forward to more of your videos.
Hi Bill I still like your layout. Love your shows.
Hi Bill , another informative video, would love to see you do a 2 rail to 3 rail conversion, perhaps you could squeeze a 3 rail section into your new layout.
Another great repair, sympathetically working with the original and bringing it back to life. I love the idea of moulding with plasticine... I wondered if you chilled the plasticine mould, it would be firmer while you place the milliput / epoxy? I believe epoxy will flow better and lose its bubbles if heated briefly before it cures, I've even seen craft people wave a flame over it to do that. I've never used milliput but it might soften with a bit of heat, worth a try next time. The suggestion in another comment about car-body fillers also sounds good. I love how your channel features and inspires common-sense skills in every episode. Thanks again!
Would agree with the chilling of the plasticine - freezing it in a freezer would make it fairly solid I think.
You really did save that little engine's life. Keep on saving trains.
Another brilliant repair job Bill.
I have one in black and it sounds the same ,always has!
“There’s life” - but not as we know it Jim!😅
Another great job, that looks and runs really well now. Great skill
When you get a non-runner, I prefer to hear, “Nope, Not a sausage!”. Lol. Great job as usual, Bill. Cheers.🇨🇦
Also ,they sound like a food mixer
Surprised you used superglue on the body crack, Bill. Pretty certain these bodies are polystyrene and respond well to liquid plastic glue which would melt the plastic together again and give a much stronger bond. (Apply it from the inside to hide the repair.)
Nice job Bill, well done!
That chassis is perfect for the 1953 model of Thomas the Tank Engine by P.R. Wickham.
A thing of beauty is a joy to behold!
You really brought that engine back to life!
Great video
Cheers Dan :)
I have a old R1 model exactly like the one in this video... It's in a awful condition but it still runs somehow 🤣 I love that model
Nice job. Looks like new!
Great repair as always
Aaah…sounds of the seventies…..great stuff…..didn’t care back then ,they were all noisy.
A wee tip maybe if your interested for making bits and bobs ,car body filler may work quite well in your plasticine moulds,it’s a two part mix which has a more fluid consistency causing less damage to your mould,also dries in 15 min approx.
Sands down easily ,wet or dry.
I have also polished original body paints,very carefully with watered down Autosol on a cotton bud ,then buff with a cotton wool pad,finish with car wax in the same manner comes up really well if your patient .
Interesting repair this one Bill
Nick Australia
Runs nice Bill considering its age. Great video thanks.
Another amazing repair great job.
Looking good as new
It looks beautiful 😊
great job bill,nice one.jpj
I got the black one of these really nice
Great repair job,,, why didnt you use super glue and baking powder for the steps
Enjoyed this one , have you tried using super glue with baking powder it sets like concrete . Ive used it for all sorts. You can file and shape it as well.
Hi Bill, thank you so much for these repair videos! You have inspired to to do some repairs of some my old locos, with some success.
Am I right in thinking the ball bearings are one sixteenth of an inch? Thanks.
I think the ball bearings are a little larger. They measure 2.3mm on my calipers.
@@oobill Thanks :)
@charlesmorrish909 I think you'll find they are 3/32 inch (Dublo invented a wee whilie before metric!)
@@vernon.rogers Thanks Vernon, now I need to track some down!!
Love the videos I’ve learned a lot, brought my old locos back to life 👍 any chance you could show how to upgrade XO4 motors to something new 🤔
I have shown upgrading to Type 7 motors. The trouble is sourcing a suitable replacement motor and mount.
Thanks for the reply 👍 I’ve been laid up for a few months had plenty of time to look for replacement motor but not found anything 🥺
Nice runner now! By the way do you know how I can get hold of a remagnetiser? I've tried Ronald's email but the address is no longer valid .
Ware do you get the decols and numbers from
Bill as ever interesting, may I make a suggestion re the noise, have you ever tried putting thick insulation tape on the inside of the body to help reduce the vibrations
I'm sure I've asked similar of Bill in the past. There's a huge difference in the noise level between 'body off' and 'body on', so I presume the body is acting as a resonant chamber and amplifying the noise. Putting something resilient in the body to absorb the sound ought to reduce that effect, but I haven't yet tried, so I wonder if anyone else has done? I was hoping Bill would one day, but I'm still waiting!
Great video can you tell me where you got the new head for the smoke stack as I have a model that needs a new top thanks
Ebay. Just search for Wrenn or Dublo R1 Chimney
@@oobill Thank You
good vid thanks lee
So this isn't a Jinty?