Feeler gauge. It's called a feeler gauge. And make sure the engine is totally cold. At least let it sit over night. When it's set right the gauge will feel like it's dragging on a magnet.
This advice comes seven years after the fact, but in case it helps @22:12, see the little metal posts to the left of the points? There's a recessed notch between them. That's there so you can make the points adjustment with a slotted screwdriver. The same posts are at the edge of the backing plate to the right of the condenser, those are there to make timing adjustments.
Restoring a 1979 kz440b. The bike ran and I tried to turn it on a few minutes later and nothing. I'm getting 12 volts to my blue wire going to the capacitor and points so I'm changing the points and capacitor next. I'm not getting any spark so this video helps a lot. Thank you
You don’t want to do a STATIC (power is off and engine isn’t running) point adjustment or timing adjustment with the power on. The engine could start while turning the crankshaft and hurt you very badly. You can wreck your ohm meter if the spark goes into your meter. In your video I could see sparks jumping across the points. I hope your ohm meter didn’t get wrecked. You do a dynamic adjustment with the engine running and need a dwell angel tester and a strobe light. I have never used a dwell angel tester, but my service manual for my KZ440 LTD, etc has instruction about how to use these two pieces of equipment. There is a safety warning saying to “make sure that no tools, clothing, or meter leads touch the spinning crankshaft” Below are the instructions from the 1980 and 1981 KZ440 service manual which should help you set the (Static) Point Gap and Timing. KZ400 will be a little different but most should match. I think there may be different number of screws for some of the mounting screws. P 18 Point Gap * Remove the screws (2), and remove the contact breaker cover. * Clean the points with clean paper or cloth using an oil-free solvent. A business card soaked in trichloroethylene (I don’t think this is available anymore) can be used to remove traces of oil. To repair light damage, use emery cloth or an oilstone. If the points are badly worn down or damaged, or if the spring is weak, replace the contact breaker. * Lubricate the point cam felt sparingly with suitable point cam lubricant. Do not overlubricate. Replace the felt if it is worn. === * Check to see that the ignition switch is turned OFF. === * Using a 17 mm wrench on the crankshaft, turn the engine counterclockwise until the contact breaker points are at their widest opening. * determine the size of the point gap with a thickness gauge. === Table B2 |-------| Standard |Point Gap | 0.3 ~ 0.4 mm (For 1980-1981 KZ440, not sure if this is same for KZ400) === To Adjust the pint gap * If the gap is not the same as the specification, loose the contact breaker base screws (2) just enough so that a slot screwdriver can be used at the contact breaker pry points to change the gap. Adjust the contact breaker until the correct point gap is obtained. * Tighten the screws (2) * Perform the timing test. Timing Test To check and adjust the timing (static): * Check the point gap, and adjust if necessary. === * With the ignition switch turned OFF, turn the engine stop switch to one of the “OFF” positions to make the ohmmeter flicker easier to read. === * Set an ohmmeter to the x 1 Ohm range and connect it across the points, one lead to the wire coming from the points (or the the spring leaf), and the other ohmmeter lead to chassis ground (engine, frame, contact breaker mounting etc.). Make sure that both leads are securely connected. * Turning the crankshaft counterclockwise, check to see if the “F” mark is aligned with the timing mark when the needle jumps (This was for analog ohm meters, digital meters didn’t exist then) * If the timing is incorrect, turn and stop the crankshaft so that the “F” mark (the line adjoining the “F”) on the timing advancer is aligned with the timing mark. * Loosen the contact breaker mounting plate screws (3), and turn the mounting plate (using a screwdriver in the pry points) so that the contacts are just at the point of opening. This point can be found by watching the ohmmeter needle, which will flicker just when the points begin to open or close. * Tighten the mounting plate screws (3). * Check the point gap again, and adjust if it was disturbed. * Disconnect the ohmmeter leads. * Install the contact breaker cover and it’s gasket. Open this helps.
You can't really eyeball the exact moment when the points close. You need to use a multimeter or a continuity tester to do that so the plugs fire at exactly the correct moment. The ignition should be off for the entire procedure. I enjoyed this series though and the effort it took to make them. Thanks.
@@stockton350 hey man I got a question for you. My points don't open. I can not set it to its widest opening so that I can remove it and replace with new points. I can't just remove the points the way they are and just install new ones because it wouldn't line up right. Does this make sense? Something weird is going on. When the bike isn't being used for a few weeks the points gap adjusts to no gap at all, and it does this all by itself. I've adjusted the gap before a few times but the gap eventually goes to no gap after not using the bike for a while. It's a 1975 kz400 only 11,000 mi. One thing I noticed is the heal on the contact breaker doesn't touch the shaft but I don't know if it's supposed to. I'm just thinking something has worn down or the tension in that flat spring is comprised. The bike runs great and is timed perfectly. If you could give some advice on why this is happening and how I can replace the points the simple way that would be so amazing. I'm hoping to avoid using a multimeter or any other complicated procedures if possible. I've read up on the other ways to adjust gap but I don't understand electrical at all. I'm willing to take instructions though. You have no idea how much this will help me. I totally turned this sweet bike into a cafe racer and I do all the work myself.
Without doing some serious modifications the only way is to get the stuff off a later year KZ440 that that CDI ignition from factory. I read that the KZ750 TWIN stuff would work as well, but cannot confirm. All I'm going to say is good luck finding the stuff! All I can find anywhere is the CDI box and nothing on the pulse generator...
I am following along because I am resto-modding my 440B and these videos help when I have "bolt amnesia".
Feeler gauge. It's called a feeler gauge. And make sure the engine is totally cold. At least let it sit over night. When it's set right the gauge will feel like it's dragging on a magnet.
Thanks your video saved me a lot of frustration lol my 77 kz400 is starting a lot better now
This advice comes seven years after the fact, but in case it helps @22:12, see the little metal posts to the left of the points? There's a recessed notch between them. That's there so you can make the points adjustment with a slotted screwdriver. The same posts are at the edge of the backing plate to the right of the condenser, those are there to make timing adjustments.
You have a strobe! Even easier. The posts on the backing plate are designed to be used while the engine is running using a strobe light
@@JohnAndersonIV someone down the line will appreciate this. thanks!
Restoring a 1979 kz440b. The bike ran and I tried to turn it on a few minutes later and nothing. I'm getting 12 volts to my blue wire going to the capacitor and points so I'm changing the points and capacitor next. I'm not getting any spark so this video helps a lot. Thank you
You don’t want to do a STATIC (power is off and engine isn’t running) point adjustment or timing adjustment with the power on.
The engine could start while turning the crankshaft and hurt you very badly.
You can wreck your ohm meter if the spark goes into your meter. In your video I could see sparks jumping across the points. I hope your ohm meter didn’t get wrecked.
You do a dynamic adjustment with the engine running and need a dwell angel tester and a strobe light.
I have never used a dwell angel tester, but my service manual for my KZ440 LTD, etc has instruction about how to use these two pieces of equipment. There is a safety warning saying to “make sure that no tools, clothing, or meter leads touch the spinning crankshaft”
Below are the instructions from the 1980 and 1981 KZ440 service manual which should help you set the (Static) Point Gap and Timing.
KZ400 will be a little different but most should match. I think there may be different number of screws for some of the mounting screws.
P 18
Point Gap
* Remove the screws (2), and remove the contact breaker cover.
* Clean the points with clean paper or cloth using an oil-free solvent. A business card soaked in trichloroethylene (I don’t think this is available anymore) can be used to remove traces of oil. To repair light damage, use emery cloth or an oilstone. If the points are badly worn down or damaged, or if the spring is weak, replace the contact breaker.
* Lubricate the point cam felt sparingly with suitable point cam lubricant. Do not overlubricate. Replace the felt if it is worn.
===
* Check to see that the ignition switch is turned OFF.
===
* Using a 17 mm wrench on the crankshaft, turn the engine counterclockwise until the contact breaker points are at their widest opening.
* determine the size of the point gap with a thickness gauge.
===
Table B2
|-------| Standard
|Point Gap | 0.3 ~ 0.4 mm (For 1980-1981 KZ440, not sure if this is same for KZ400)
===
To Adjust the pint gap
* If the gap is not the same as the specification, loose the contact breaker base screws (2) just enough so that a slot screwdriver can be used at the contact breaker pry points to change the gap. Adjust the contact breaker until the correct point gap is obtained.
* Tighten the screws (2)
* Perform the timing test.
Timing Test
To check and adjust the timing (static):
* Check the point gap, and adjust if necessary.
===
* With the ignition switch turned OFF, turn the engine stop switch to one of the “OFF” positions to make the ohmmeter flicker easier to read.
===
* Set an ohmmeter to the x 1 Ohm range and connect it across the points, one lead to the wire coming from the points (or the the spring leaf), and the other ohmmeter lead to chassis ground (engine, frame, contact breaker mounting etc.). Make sure that both leads are securely connected.
* Turning the crankshaft counterclockwise, check to see if the “F” mark is aligned with the timing mark when the needle jumps (This was for analog ohm meters, digital meters didn’t exist then)
* If the timing is incorrect, turn and stop the crankshaft so that the “F” mark (the line adjoining the “F”) on the timing advancer is aligned with the timing mark.
* Loosen the contact breaker mounting plate screws (3), and turn the mounting plate (using a screwdriver in the pry points) so that the contacts are just at the point of opening. This point can be found by watching the ohmmeter needle, which will flicker just when the points begin to open or close.
* Tighten the mounting plate screws (3).
* Check the point gap again, and adjust if it was disturbed.
* Disconnect the ohmmeter leads.
* Install the contact breaker cover and it’s gasket.
Open this helps.
GAWWWWD dude you really need to edit your tinkering, practicing, and experimenting. YAWWWWWNNNnnnnn...
Idc. Go watch someone else
i like how the car sets the other cars alarm off
You can't get shocked on the primary side.
Have you changed the ignition coil out yet?
Having troubles getting mine started but it is an old bike and has been sitting some time
Do not watch this video for instruction on setting your points! He obviously has no idea what he’s doing.
You can't really eyeball the exact moment when the points close. You need to use a multimeter or a continuity tester to do that so the plugs fire at exactly the correct moment. The ignition should be off for the entire procedure. I enjoyed this series though and the effort it took to make them. Thanks.
@@stockton350 hey man I got a question for you. My points don't open. I can not set it to its widest opening so that I can remove it and replace with new points. I can't just remove the points the way they are and just install new ones because it wouldn't line up right. Does this make sense? Something weird is going on. When the bike isn't being used for a few weeks the points gap adjusts to no gap at all, and it does this all by itself. I've adjusted the gap before a few times but the gap eventually goes to no gap after not using the bike for a while. It's a 1975 kz400 only 11,000 mi. One thing I noticed is the heal on the contact breaker doesn't touch the shaft but I don't know if it's supposed to. I'm just thinking something has worn down or the tension in that flat spring is comprised. The bike runs great and is timed perfectly. If you could give some advice on why this is happening and how I can replace the points the simple way that would be so amazing. I'm hoping to avoid using a multimeter or any other complicated procedures if possible. I've read up on the other ways to adjust gap but I don't understand electrical at all. I'm willing to take instructions though. You have no idea how much this will help me. I totally turned this sweet bike into a cafe racer and I do all the work myself.
Take a look and see if this helps. ruclips.net/video/T_2Gr3Tb4XQ/видео.html
where did you get the needles?
I would like to convert my 440 to electronic ignition does anyone know of any kits available?
Without doing some serious modifications the only way is to get the stuff off a later year KZ440 that that CDI ignition from factory. I read that the KZ750 TWIN stuff would work as well, but cannot confirm. All I'm going to say is good luck finding the stuff! All I can find anywhere is the CDI box and nothing on the pulse generator...