I did a 3/4 turn, but ended up doing 1 full turn in total . After the first fire I felt the rockers were a bit loose so I did another 1/4 turn. Less is the safest bet tho!
Hey that’s Lizzy! Sorry I didn’t say her name there. She’s a Pitt and Lab mix. The other guy is Bo. He’s a Husky and German Shepherd. Both are rescues and definitely my family! Thanks fir the comment @dangerdoberman👍
@@unclelemme I had a pitt lab mix that passed away last year. I have a Husky, GSD also. Dogs are great company. Thanks for the video; I came across your video while researching installing new parts on the 4.3 Vortec in my 97 Blazer. Stay safe out there.
@@dangerdoberman Sorry about your loss. That’s always tough. Sounds like you have great taste. Good dogs and good motors. The 4.3 is pretty much the same as the 5.7 as you probably know. Just 2 cylinders cutoff. You’ll probably see more 4.3 stuff on here too. I’ve always been a Blazer fan, S-10 or full size!👍 You stay safe out there as well Bud!
Hey great comment! If I had put new ones in I’d soak and prime them. As far as bleed down I’ve never had that issue in all my years with (this) engine type. Usually if one does as you take out backlash you’ll see a noticeable difference between the threads of the adjuster nut. It’ll look different than the rest. Priming the engine also helped.Thanks @randallsemrau6911 for watchin!
@@unclelemme It's true that lifters rarely bleed down. I guess I'm just a bit sensitive to the issue because I had one bleed down recently, and It really caused problems.
@@randallsemrau6911 hey I really appreciate your input. There’s a lot of information in that job. I really tried to cover everything I can, so when people like yourself are respectful adding more information it’s definitely helpful . People definitely need to be aware of that can happen. Thanks again for your comments!
@@leh3827 Hey there great questions! So Priming is easy enough, not always necessary on (used engines) but definitely a good idea! You can remove the distributor and use a special oil pump priming tool. Or you can just make one out of an old distributor. Just need the oil pump fitting from the bottom of it. Buying the tool is easier for sure. I’m pretty sure it works on the older 350 and 305’s too. Now the (new) lifters you’ll want to soak in oil, overnight is best at least. Then you’ll want to use an old pushrod to compress the lifters while submerged in oil till you see no air bubbles escaping. I didn’t do this since I just reinstalled mine that already had oil in them. So it wasn’t necessary. (Warning though, if you tip the lifters over you will want to prime them if they loose oil!!!)
@@unclelemme Another videographer just told us to never soak, fill, or pump the lifters before installation; just make sure their internal spring will compress completely, then put em in, find zero tolerance by turning the rods between thumb and finger like you do, then give the rocker nuts 3/4 turn. I like how you pour the full amount of oil into the engine via the valley. Then prime the lifters using a priming tool of some sort. I like your method of turning the crank pulley to dial in the 'low zones' of the lifters, then finding zero tolerance. The other guys were using the 1/4 pulley turn method until they did 2 full turns (which equals 1 full cam rotation) until there were no more loose rods. Whatever turns your crank I guess. Thanks for getting back.
Some say you have to go firing order and the proper rotation direction. I’ve never done it like that I forget stuff…. What was I saying… Oh yeah, you’ll be able to jump to either side. I always turn the proper direction and make sure both valves are shut. You’ll have to remember what cylinder yer on. If you are unsure rotate back and forth (a little) to be sure. If you’re good you’ll be able to spin the pushrod as explained in the video. Hope that helps @randallburkhart8452
The thought of you doing this tutorial during a snow blizzard is encouraging enough.....
Dude just wanted to say Thank you for this video! I watched several videos of which I got a little more confused each time. Lol. Thanks again!
It’s recommended on small block Chevy, stock that take it to zero lash plus 1/2 to 3/4 turn down.
I did a 3/4 turn, but ended up doing 1 full turn in total . After the first fire I felt the rockers were a bit loose so I did another 1/4 turn. Less is the safest bet tho!
This was great.
Thanks @gorgeoutdoors! I appreciate your comment. I’m glad you enjoyed it.👍
Thumbs up for the girl ❤❤🐕❤❤
Hey that’s Lizzy! Sorry I didn’t say her name there. She’s a Pitt and Lab mix. The other guy is Bo. He’s a Husky and German Shepherd. Both are rescues and definitely my family! Thanks fir the comment @dangerdoberman👍
@@unclelemme I had a pitt lab mix that passed away last year. I have a Husky, GSD also. Dogs are great company. Thanks for the video; I came across your video while researching installing new parts on the 4.3 Vortec in my 97 Blazer. Stay safe out there.
@@dangerdoberman Sorry about your loss. That’s always tough.
Sounds like you have great taste. Good dogs and good motors. The 4.3 is pretty much the same as the 5.7 as you probably know. Just 2 cylinders cutoff. You’ll probably see more 4.3 stuff on here too.
I’ve always been a Blazer fan, S-10 or full size!👍
You stay safe out there as well Bud!
Thanks
Good video
Would'a thought you'd first go throught the process of making sure the lifters were all filled. They can - and do - bleed down.
Hey great comment! If I had put new ones in I’d soak and prime them. As far as bleed down I’ve never had that issue in all my years with (this) engine type. Usually if one does as you take out backlash you’ll see a noticeable difference between the threads of the adjuster nut. It’ll look different than the rest. Priming the engine also helped.Thanks @randallsemrau6911 for watchin!
@@unclelemme It's true that lifters rarely bleed down. I guess I'm just a bit sensitive to the issue because I had one bleed down recently, and It really caused problems.
@@randallsemrau6911 hey I really appreciate your input. There’s a lot of information in that job. I really tried to cover everything I can, so when people like yourself are respectful adding more information it’s definitely helpful . People definitely need to be aware of that can happen. Thanks again for your comments!
How do you go about 'priming' the engine? Is there a way you prime new or cleaned lifters? How do we get them filled with oil before installation?
@@leh3827 Hey there great questions! So Priming is easy enough, not always necessary on (used engines) but definitely a good idea! You can remove the distributor and use a special oil pump priming tool. Or you can just make one out of an old distributor. Just need the oil pump fitting from the bottom of it. Buying the tool is easier for sure. I’m pretty sure it works on the older 350 and 305’s too.
Now the (new) lifters you’ll want to soak in oil, overnight is best at least. Then you’ll want to use an old pushrod to compress the lifters while submerged in oil till you see no air bubbles escaping. I didn’t do this since I just reinstalled mine that already had oil in them. So it wasn’t necessary.
(Warning though, if you tip the lifters over you will want to prime them if they loose oil!!!)
@@unclelemme Another videographer just told us to never soak, fill, or pump the lifters before installation; just make sure their internal spring will compress completely, then put em in, find zero tolerance by turning the rods between thumb and finger like you do, then give the rocker nuts 3/4 turn. I like how you pour the full amount of oil into the engine via the valley. Then prime the lifters using a priming tool of some sort.
I like your method of turning the crank pulley to dial in the 'low zones' of the lifters, then finding zero tolerance. The other guys were using the 1/4 pulley turn method until they did 2 full turns (which equals 1 full cam rotation) until there were no more loose rods. Whatever turns your crank I guess. Thanks for getting back.
So do the left side of the engine first? Then do the driver side?
Some say you have to go firing order and the proper rotation direction. I’ve never done it like that I forget stuff….
What was I saying…
Oh yeah, you’ll be able to jump to either side. I always turn the proper direction and make sure both valves are shut. You’ll have to remember what cylinder yer on. If you are unsure rotate back and forth (a little) to be sure. If you’re good you’ll be able to spin the pushrod as explained in the video. Hope that helps @randallburkhart8452