I had a rectifier problem on my last bike and learnt a lot. First you want about 14 volts on the battery when your rpm's are high [not idle, you want about 5k+ rpm]. This means it's charging and you don't have a problem with your stator or RR. Next you'll test your RR, if your volt meter has a diode tester stick the positive end on the positive wire and touch each yellow[or white] wire with the negative. They should all read the same, the value doesn't matter as long as they are somewhat close. Next swap it around, so negative on negative wire and touch each yellow or white wire with the positive. Again all numbers should be close to each other. Your negative and positive will have different values but it's the 3 yellow wires that you're wanting to have the same value. If they aren't you have a bad rectifier. There are a few good videos out there to teach you how to diagnose charging issues. My bet is you have a bad RR or you wired it wrong. I was told by my Mechanic that a stator almost never fails without the regulator rectifier going first.
I did a quick search for you for a Ruckus 150 swap charging and the first article said... "Expect charging issues with 8-pole Stators GY6 engines usually come with 6-pole or 8-pole stators which typically don’t output enough power at idle to charge the battery while running the headlights. This is a minor inconvenience most of the time, but can lead to a dead battery and huge headaches under the wrong conditions. The simple answer to this is to upgrade to an 11-pole stator, but this isn’t totally necessary.A side note, if you have severe battery charging issues (while riding), this isn’t normal and there is a fault in the system. Contact the maker of your harness and try to get an answer as to what’s going on."
Motonosity. Have you ever hooked uo the battery backwards. If you do there is a internal 1 way diode in the rectifier that will break if you do. If that breaks then it will prevent it from charging.
CN_Abdiel A stator is *part* of an alternator, generator, electric motor, or magneto. The part that doesn't move - it's STATionary. The other major part is the rotor - the moving part, generally combined on small engines with the flywheel. The only real difference is between an alternator, producing AC current, which has been standard on pretty much every vehicle since the '60s, & a generator which produces DC current. Magnetos are weird & irrelevant here. The reason people tend to refer to each part separately on bikes, etc. is due to the different construction: bikes are essentially the only application where they *can* be replaced or serviced separately without special handling. It's still an alternator, though.
The exact combo I run is scooter works stator: 0900-1077 and scooter works rectifier regulator: 0900-1008. I hope this helps. The charging system can be a big headache. What GY6 harness are you running?
Don't know if you have tried this or not but unhook your ground while it is running and if it dies you have a charging issue if not it's a battery issue. It looks like you may have a dead sale in the battery if that's the case the battery will charge and show charge but once you put a drain on it it will quickly lose voltage
You can test the stator and rectifier at the connectors without taking anything apart. Stator outputs AC and rectifier converts it to DC. Start testing at the stator and move your way down.
28 days of uploading! You legend, you earned a day off, and don't have to apologise to anyone for it! Thanks for your efforts BK, it's been awesome to see your material. Enough people have commented already, but you should have the Ruckus sorted with a stator
To make sure if the stator is actually bad you should check the voltage reading directly at the stator connection. It should be a fairly high voltage (up to 20v), and then the voltage is reduced in the voltage regulator down to around 14v for charging the battery. Also if the battery is fully charged the voltage regulator won't allow charge into the battery and it will stay around 12v until the battery is drained somewhat, then the reading will go up to around 14v in order to keep the battery charged.
I am currently doing an apprenticeship at Audi to become a vehicle mechatronic, so take my advice with a grain of salt as I am not as experienced as a lot of other people out there, but my suggestion is that there is some electrical device pulling a current while the ruckus is off, this propably drained the battery so many times which is why it doesn't charge properly and loses voltage as quickly as it does with just the ignition on. To find out if this is the case, you have to measure the current flowing from the battery when it's off, which you might be able to do with your multimeter, but most likely it won't be able to as those things usually can only measure a very small current. You should propably take it to a shop, they usually have the right equipment, measuring the current there should only take 2-3 minutes.
what wattage headlight bulbs are you running? try testing the voltage with the headlights unplugged and see if there is any change. swap out the rectifier first since its easy to do. you'll need some type of puller to replace the stator.
Looks like the regulator may be either bad or not quite hooked up correctly. When you rev the bike your voltage should rise and peak out around 14-14.5VDC. You can also check the leads coming off of the stator and see what a/c voltage it's putting out. Just shoot each of the yellow leads to ground when the bike is running and make sure your meter is set to a/c.
Check the voltage coming from the alternator (stator) if that's giving out a voltage higher than 14 then it's not that, now check the voltage coming out of the regulator rectifier because it could be faulty, unfortunately not really reparable but there not to expensive.
if you measure the resistance on the stator you can tell if the stator is good and you can look up what numbers it is supposed to be at if it is good when the motor is not running.
the cvt gearbox may not be setting to an idle position at start on some occasions and the battery doesn't have the cold crank power to initially push the belt through it also the battery will drop in voltage after startup and idle the stator should be able to hold the voltage around 12 to 12.5 volts until the revs increase then the stator should have more power to charge the battery back up to 13v
I had something similar with my first Road bike (zxr400) same issues and it was the rectifier not putting enough voltage out to charge the battery. It withe start up fine, leave it for 10 minutes and it would start up fine etc. but ifI went for a long ride the battery would go flat due to lights being on constantly. Fortunately I could bump start mine!
stator is just like a altornator, so it needs a power to excite it to produce power there are a few diagrams you can find on line depending on if it is a single phase or 3 phase stator.
@Motonosity My 150 gy6 motor came with a 6 pole stator but had a 8 pole flywheel attached so it didn't charge the battery. I replaced the stator with a 8 pole one and fixed the charging problem and motor ran smoother. You will need a flywheel puller to get the flywheel to replace the stator. Also be very careful with the woodruff key.
when the bike is off, no lights on or anything, the battery doesn't lose voltage (unless you have some sort of parasitic draw). Itshould sit around 12.6 volts. Turn the headlight on and leave it for 30 minutes and you'll see a noticeable drop in voltage. Start it up, you should see around 13.5ish volts. If it doesn't show that, it's probably a bad stator. If it's higher than that, it's probably a regulator/rectifier. Looks like you're in for a stator replacement. I just did the same on my bike. Good luck with it!
Check the stator output before the regulator (in AC) sense the voltage stays at battery voltage it's either the stators not outputting the right voltage or the rectifier has failed. if you are going to just replace things start with the rectifier. if the diodes fail in the rectifier it will send AC current to the battery so it will essentially charge and drain the battery at the same time.
before you add the new stator &/or rectifier you need to check those connections first, grounds included! you may not have a good connection somewhere! when I upgraded my battery to a lipo, my ground to the chassis was rusty (I know yours isn't rusty but it could be not grounded correctly) & after sanding down the rust, I did add some silicon based conductive paste to the connections & the power flows nicely now! also the drop in the battery when you 1st checked it when you turned it to the on (not running) position, maybe due too the lights you have maybe drawing a lot of power & when you started it, it stabilized a bit, but due too either something with the recharging system or any connections with the charging system maybe the reason why it'll only charge to a mid to low charge plus, again some charging systems only work up to a certain speed, over said speed the system can't keep up if it doesn't have a good enough connection! you may need to put larger gauge wires in, change the connector type &/or again make sure it's got the best connection possible!
the ruck shop gy6 wire harness are know to have a lot of issues. they run way to many grounds that are not needed. and most have issues with the state wires causing it not to charge the battery
If yo have the lights wired to the ignition switch so that they come on with the key the lights may be using to much power for the stator to ALSO charge the battery.
You need to check the voltage coming out of the stator across each pair of the 3 wires (as in, 1 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 1) with your multimeter set to AC voltage. If each of those combos reads 15+ volts (or so, it varies for each model), then the problem is your regulator.
I had a similar problem with my YZF600r. In my case I only had to replace the voltage regulator but not the stater. I ordered both anyway just to see if both had a problem
You can unplug that light and see if it's simply drawing too much power, but it looks like the charging system is the culprit. Whether that's the wiring, stator, rectifier, or a combination is the fun part
start your trouble shooting from the stator. triple check all plugs and connections, check your ground wires off the battery with the ohm setting, check your output voltage starting with the stator then rectifier. good service manual is your friend if its applicable for the engine swap. i have time and would be happy to walk you through it if you would like.
I'm not sure if this will help you but check to make sure that you're getting the correct voltage coming out of your stator I can't advise you on what the voltage should be as every Stator is different
1 of the diodes in the rectifier could have blown under charging the battery. you can test both stator & rectifier with the meter you have. use the diode mode it will tell you, plenty of youtube vids on how to... stator on ac output. I think i said same thing on your last vid.
the voltage drops to 12.5V because of the incandescent lights. When the bike is running you should be getting 13.5 to 14.5V, depending on the idle rpm.
Make sure to check all of the wiring for the charging system as well as reg/rec and stator :) Considering you've had issues with the wiring harness through the build and all of the parts are new the wiring would be first thing I would check.
Sounds like the stater or a bad ground if its not consistent. It sounds like ground for now. The voltage will be low at idle it should charge around lower to mid range rpm. take it out or prop the wheel up and get the rmp at mid range if its not up then I would replace the stater and the regulator. They usually go bad in pairs. Check your grounds first though. A faulty ground could do this as well.
I had to run a heavy ground from the battery to the starter mount. I burned up the ground in my stator. if you see melted plastic on the stator wire... it's a grounding issue. I have the same gy6.
sucks that stator is fudged or something along those lines. you've looked at the regulator so you've made a good start. I'd also go down as close to the stator and just make sure that nothing is not loose. still probably have to take off the covers and exhaust to do it. :-(
what i think it is your stator is miswired and there for your not getting a charge to the battery. text pin your stator to check what wire is supposed to be your charge wire.
What's voltage with motor running and headlights off ? You need to run the headlights off the yellow wire on the reg so that they don't rely on batt power , I would also look at running a led bar instead of the two massive halogens , draw way less power
Is the ground the frame/engine? If so you should float the ground from the stator so you have a negative wire going directly to the R/R it will give you a more stable charge then you don't have to worry about grounds.
From personal experience, your battery should be at around 14v+ volts when charging/running the bike and somewhere around 12.3-12.6 when off. Either your battery doesn't charge well or your stator isn't charging the battery
Google checking continuity between the stator wires. It will tell you if the stator is bad. Also google checking the regulator/rectifier with your multimeter. I had the same problem on my CB750 and it ended up being the cheaper part fortunately. Stators aren't usually cheap but could be okay for the Ruckus.
Can you swap the battery with one of the other bikes? if it was wired backwards to start you may have damaged it somehow. They can still show a charge but not push enough amps to do anything.
Hold the meter on the battery, check the reading at the normal idol speed and then rev the bike up slowly to full revs and hold it for a few seconds (rear wheel not on the floor for obviously reasons). If the reading goes higher as you rev then you know that the battery is taking the load and the stator is working. Also a good idea, go to a workshop and ask if you can use a "battery load tester" and it will tell you if the battery is shot or not. Make sure you charge the battery before using the load tester as it'll give you the fair reading.
some bikes don't charge well at idle. lift the back wheel, test what the voltage is from the battery when the revs are up. if you still don't get above 13.5 then either RR or stator is bad
The 13.3+ volts you got right off the charger is a result of something called surface charge. You need to let batteries sit about 5 minutes after any sort of charging for it to equalize. Just for future reference
It's the little silver box that was what was wrong with mine I could put it on charge and it would crank fine and while it ran it would run fine but when you shut it off it wouldn't start back up. Can't figure out what it is called
Try disconnecting your headlight and ride around and see if it charges the battery correctly. If it doesn't you know you have a stator/charging issue. If it works you know you are having an issue with your battery maintaining the charge. Hope that helps.
You should be able to find the specs for the out-put of your stator voltage and you should be able to run an resistance test to check for an open winding. If that output is correct then it more then likely your voltage regulator / rectifier.. Some of those you can't really check because of the solid state parts used in them.. Also you need to find out what that charging system can put out as far as amps, and see with all you have on that bike that is using power isn't going over what that charging system can put out.
The battery will sit at above 12v for hours, if it's just sitting. The rate at which it was dropping when you had the bike turned on and a load on the battery suggests that it is shot. The charging system is partly the issue, because it should be above 13v when running, and that could be anything from a loose connection to a bad stator. But, replacing the battery should help a lot with your issues.
during riding, normal bikes batteries go to about 15 volts... thats the charging voltage.. and when you turn the engine off the battery will drop back to 12.6+ volts... (like in yourn case 13.3-13.5)
you should be getting around 13.80 to 14, charge while bike running, you need to run volt meter on the cables for the magneto to see you are getting a charge if you ain't there's a problem there or if you have then you have to check all connections, from top off my head it be your magneto, they charge like a car alternator does on the car, hello from the UK
Hey man I'm an professional mechanic there a couple things you can test, make sure your stator isn't grounded out, also make sure it is producing a good amount of voltage, test the regulator by seeing if there's any voltage bleeding backwards, also if your meter has a diode tester you can test the regulator that way, hopefully this helps, also call jake i thought that's what all you guys did when you had bike issues lol
Your stator might might be lined up wrong.. or its for a lower capacity.. or check on your rectifier.. it might be for a lower engine size and lower voltage output. So instead of over charging it, its just draining your batt on rpm.. but on idle it will give off a charge.. it happend to mine and replaced it with a bigger one, for a big bike a actually and it charges almost to 14.5 and can handle HID, LED, and an air horn. Will a 3 USB and lighter port.
I think the first thing to do is run it without the battery. Start it with the battery then remove the negative terminal. If it keeps running the battery is bad, If it dies then the charging circuit is bad. You can test the regulator with the multi-meter on the ohms settings. There is a ton of information on the web to test it, real easy stuff. Or you can buy a new regulator and just swap it out.
The way I used my multi meter which might be different unless this bike has a neutral, you have to rev it and if the regulator is working it shouldn't travel too far past whatever whats the regulator is set to such as 12 volts. If it goes up to 15 16 you might have a bad regulator/ wiring set up, If thats not the case then all thats left would be the stator
Hey, Try to check your rectifiers connection. Check if the wires are allignet with the colours. you know, green to green, red to red and so on. I had this issue on my bike. The plug/ connection was right, but the wires dindt sit in the right spots. Hope u know what i mean. Best regards.
You should have around 14V while running... Could be as simple as raising the idle RPM's or there's something wrong with the charging system (Alternator or rectifier etc)
when the battery is charging, the potential difference should rise beyond 13V (~14.2, 14.4V in many cases) only then will the battery charge. Check the potential difference produced by the stator with: 1. Battery unplugged 2. Battery installed
Hey Motonosity, is your voltage dropping as you rev it up? If it drops while you rev it then it's most likely your regulator rectifier. You can always have your local dealership do a load test on the battery to rule out the whole bad battery cell thing. That will also save you from buying a battery if you don't need it.
@Motonosity put your stock stator back on the bike and try it with that. those stator are flawed out of the box quite often. I've been working on mopeds and scooters for years, and I've seen it several times. it could be something on the bike (new lights maybe) is burning to much power. Chinese scooters always have a hard time charging their own batterys, even bone stock. you ruckus is a Honda but the motor isn't, you have to remember that lol. my 150 ruck had so many electrical problems I ended up going the kickstart route.
Your battery should be load tested also (auto parts stores can do that) to see if it is ok (it can go bad due to being drained like it was). It was strange that the voltage dropped as much as it did with just turning the key to on.
The odds of the stator being bad is pretty slim on the new bike . Definitely go with the rectifier/regulator due to you getting some output. I wish you had disconnected the battery once you got it running to see what is coming out of the regular.. not good on modern vehicles but bike should be all good
To me, it seems your lights are pulling a lot of power. Probably too much to where the stator is not able to keep up. First thing I would try is unplugging the lights or at least one of them and go for a ride. See if it still dies.
I had a rectifier problem on my last bike and learnt a lot. First you want about 14 volts on the battery when your rpm's are high [not idle, you want about 5k+ rpm]. This means it's charging and you don't have a problem with your stator or RR. Next you'll test your RR, if your volt meter has a diode tester stick the positive end on the positive wire and touch each yellow[or white] wire with the negative. They should all read the same, the value doesn't matter as long as they are somewhat close. Next swap it around, so negative on negative wire and touch each yellow or white wire with the positive. Again all numbers should be close to each other. Your negative and positive will have different values but it's the 3 yellow wires that you're wanting to have the same value. If they aren't you have a bad rectifier. There are a few good videos out there to teach you how to diagnose charging issues. My bet is you have a bad RR or you wired it wrong. I was told by my Mechanic that a stator almost never fails without the regulator rectifier going first.
I did a quick search for you for a Ruckus 150 swap charging and the first article said...
"Expect charging issues with 8-pole Stators
GY6 engines usually come with 6-pole or 8-pole stators which typically don’t output enough power at idle to charge the battery while running the headlights. This is a minor inconvenience most of the time, but can lead to a dead battery and huge headaches under the wrong conditions. The simple answer to this is to upgrade to an 11-pole stator, but this isn’t totally necessary.A side note, if you have severe battery charging issues (while riding), this isn’t normal and there is a fault in the system. Contact the maker of your harness and try to get an answer as to what’s going on."
I installed an 11-pole stator while we were doing the build.
"Thanks for trying to help me bro, but I actually already installed an 11-pole stator while we were doing the build"
Motonosity Are you sure your stator isn't fucked 😂
Todd Abbott
Smokey mountain crawl 2017....don't be late
There is two separate stators a/c and d/c I have had the same issue in the past. What color is the plug of the stator? White or green?
You should have 14v or more while running. Your stator is not working.
Caswell Racing 76 Or the rectifier. Possibly the regulator. Might even be a damaged battery. It *was* mis-wired the first time he tried to start it.
honda's voltage regulator are very often the problem. google it up, their regulator seems to fail in atv and motorcycle a lot
Motonosity. Have you ever hooked uo the battery backwards. If you do there is a internal 1 way diode in the rectifier that will break if you do. If that breaks then it will prevent it from charging.
Caswell Racing 76 can you replace the diode?
if the voltage drops when the bike is running it means the alternator is not working. You should have the opposite.
Emilien Gosselin Correct
CN_Abdiel my bike has an alternator so does bandits and quite a few other bikes
should of said it an st1100 pan European with upgraded alternator
Emilien Gosselin stator not alternator
CN_Abdiel A stator is *part* of an alternator, generator, electric motor, or magneto. The part that doesn't move - it's STATionary. The other major part is the rotor - the moving part, generally combined on small engines with the flywheel.
The only real difference is between an alternator, producing AC current, which has been standard on pretty much every vehicle since the '60s, & a generator which produces DC current. Magnetos are weird & irrelevant here.
The reason people tend to refer to each part separately on bikes, etc. is due to the different construction: bikes are essentially the only application where they *can* be replaced or serviced separately without special handling.
It's still an alternator, though.
BMX Backflip coming soon!!
VroomVroomDana love your videos dana
lol yep first trick I'm learning!
Motonosity love ur vids to motonosity
start it up and then disconect the battery if it shuts off then its just running off the battery and the stator is either bad or not hooked up right
You still need to turn that idle down..damn thing tried to take off with the choke on lol
You have to match the stator with the correct rectifier
The exact combo I run is scooter works stator: 0900-1077 and scooter works rectifier regulator: 0900-1008. I hope this helps. The charging system can be a big headache. What GY6 harness are you running?
ATR
Don't know if you have tried this or not but unhook your ground while it is running and if it dies you have a charging issue if not it's a battery issue. It looks like you may have a dead sale in the battery if that's the case the battery will charge and show charge but once you put a drain on it it will quickly lose voltage
while your engine is on.remove the negative side of the battery. if the engine dies,then you have an electrical issue with the bike
You can test the stator and rectifier at the connectors without taking anything apart. Stator outputs AC and rectifier converts it to DC. Start testing at the stator and move your way down.
28 days of uploading! You legend, you earned a day off, and don't have to apologise to anyone for it!
Thanks for your efforts BK, it's been awesome to see your material.
Enough people have commented already, but you should have the Ruckus sorted with a stator
I didn't even know about your love for OnePlus but now that i do, you have moved up in my list of favorite people.
To make sure if the stator is actually bad you should check the voltage reading directly at the stator connection. It should be a fairly high voltage (up to 20v), and then the voltage is reduced in the voltage regulator down to around 14v for charging the battery. Also if the battery is fully charged the voltage regulator won't allow charge into the battery and it will stay around 12v until the battery is drained somewhat, then the reading will go up to around 14v in order to keep the battery charged.
Try and disconnect your headlights and taking another voltage reading. When you turn the key the headlights came on and voltage drop quick.
I am currently doing an apprenticeship at Audi to become a vehicle mechatronic, so take my advice with a grain of salt as I am not as experienced as a lot of other people out there, but my suggestion is that there is some electrical device pulling a current while the ruckus is off, this propably drained the battery so many times which is why it doesn't charge properly and loses voltage as quickly as it does with just the ignition on. To find out if this is the case, you have to measure the current flowing from the battery when it's off, which you might be able to do with your multimeter, but most likely it won't be able to as those things usually can only measure a very small current. You should propably take it to a shop, they usually have the right equipment, measuring the current there should only take 2-3 minutes.
@motonosity You have to change the flywheel To 11 pole like the stator and have to change too the regulator to 11 pole
what wattage headlight bulbs are you running? try testing the voltage with the headlights unplugged and see if there is any change. swap out the rectifier first since its easy to do. you'll need some type of puller to replace the stator.
Looks like the regulator may be either bad or not quite hooked up correctly. When you rev the bike your voltage should rise and peak out around 14-14.5VDC. You can also check the leads coming off of the stator and see what a/c voltage it's putting out. Just shoot each of the yellow leads to ground when the bike is running and make sure your meter is set to a/c.
Check the voltage coming from the alternator (stator) if that's giving out a voltage higher than 14 then it's not that, now check the voltage coming out of the regulator rectifier because it could be faulty, unfortunately not really reparable but there not to expensive.
if you measure the resistance on the stator you can tell if the stator is good and you can look up what numbers it is supposed to be at if it is good when the motor is not running.
the cvt gearbox may not be setting to an idle position at start on some occasions and the battery doesn't have the cold crank power to initially push the belt through it also the battery will drop in voltage after startup and idle the stator should be able to hold the voltage around 12 to 12.5 volts until the revs increase then the stator should have more power to charge the battery back up to 13v
I had something similar with my first Road bike (zxr400) same issues and it was the rectifier not putting enough voltage out to charge the battery. It withe start up fine, leave it for 10 minutes and it would start up fine etc. but ifI went for a long ride the battery would go flat due to lights being on constantly. Fortunately I could bump start mine!
If you still have problems after switching stator/rectifier you may have a current draw that the battery can't handle try using led headlights
stator is just like a altornator, so it needs a power to excite it to produce power there are a few diagrams you can find on line depending on if it is a single phase or 3 phase stator.
@Motonosity My 150 gy6 motor came with a 6 pole stator but had a 8 pole flywheel attached so it didn't charge the battery. I replaced the stator with a 8 pole one and fixed the charging problem and motor ran smoother. You will need a flywheel puller to get the flywheel to replace the stator. Also be very careful with the woodruff key.
in my experience with bikes problems like that usually turned out to be a defective or broken regulator rectifier
when the bike is off, no lights on or anything, the battery doesn't lose voltage (unless you have some sort of parasitic draw). Itshould sit around 12.6 volts. Turn the headlight on and leave it for 30 minutes and you'll see a noticeable drop in voltage. Start it up, you should see around 13.5ish volts. If it doesn't show that, it's probably a bad stator. If it's higher than that, it's probably a regulator/rectifier. Looks like you're in for a stator replacement. I just did the same on my bike. Good luck with it!
Check the stator output before the regulator (in AC) sense the voltage stays at battery voltage it's either the stators not outputting the right voltage or the rectifier has failed. if you are going to just replace things start with the rectifier. if the diodes fail in the rectifier it will send AC current to the battery so it will essentially charge and drain the battery at the same time.
before you add the new stator &/or rectifier you need to check those connections first, grounds included! you may not have a good connection somewhere! when I upgraded my battery to a lipo, my ground to the chassis was rusty (I know yours isn't rusty but it could be not grounded correctly) & after sanding down the rust, I did add some silicon based conductive paste to the connections & the power flows nicely now! also the drop in the battery when you 1st checked it when you turned it to the on (not running) position, maybe due too the lights you have maybe drawing a lot of power & when you started it, it stabilized a bit, but due too either something with the recharging system or any connections with the charging system maybe the reason why it'll only charge to a mid to low charge plus, again some charging systems only work up to a certain speed, over said speed the system can't keep up if it doesn't have a good enough connection! you may need to put larger gauge wires in, change the connector type &/or again make sure it's got the best connection possible!
the ruck shop gy6 wire harness are know to have a lot of issues. they run way to many grounds that are not needed. and most have issues with the state wires causing it not to charge the battery
If yo have the lights wired to the ignition switch so that they come on with the key the lights may be using to much power for the stator to ALSO charge the battery.
You need to check the voltage coming out of the stator across each pair of the 3 wires (as in, 1 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 1) with your multimeter set to AC voltage.
If each of those combos reads 15+ volts (or so, it varies for each model), then the problem is your regulator.
Try changing the regulator rectifier and see if that helps if not the stator is on the way out
I had a similar problem with my YZF600r. In my case I only had to replace the voltage regulator but not the stater. I ordered both anyway just to see if both had a problem
You can unplug that light and see if it's simply drawing too much power, but it looks like the charging system is the culprit. Whether that's the wiring, stator, rectifier, or a combination is the fun part
start your trouble shooting from the stator.
triple check all plugs and connections, check your ground wires off the battery with the ohm setting, check your output voltage starting with the stator then rectifier. good service manual is your friend if its applicable for the engine swap. i have time and would be happy to walk you through it if you would like.
I'm not sure if this will help you but check to make sure that you're getting the correct voltage coming out of your stator I can't advise you on what the voltage should be as every Stator is different
1 of the diodes in the rectifier could have blown under charging the battery. you can test both stator & rectifier with the meter you have. use the diode mode it will tell you, plenty of youtube vids on how to... stator on ac output. I think i said same thing on your last vid.
check
1. grounds
2. wires from stater
3. regulator
4. stater
the voltage drops to 12.5V because of the incandescent lights. When the bike is running you should be getting 13.5 to 14.5V, depending on the idle rpm.
Make sure to check all of the wiring for the charging system as well as reg/rec and stator :)
Considering you've had issues with the wiring harness through the build and all of the parts are new the wiring would be first thing I would check.
Id look at the rectifier/regulator. Can you detach the battery while the thing is running? See if it keeps running?
Sounds like the stater or a bad ground if its not consistent. It sounds like ground for now. The voltage will be low at idle it should charge around lower to mid range rpm. take it out or prop the wheel up and get the rmp at mid range if its not up then I would replace the stater and the regulator. They usually go bad in pairs. Check your grounds first though. A faulty ground could do this as well.
voltage regulator should be a silver or black box near the font of the bike
I had to run a heavy ground from the battery to the starter mount. I burned up the ground in my stator. if you see melted plastic on the stator wire... it's a grounding issue. I have the same gy6.
sucks that stator is fudged or something along those lines. you've looked at the regulator so you've made a good start. I'd also go down as close to the stator and just make sure that nothing is not loose. still probably have to take off the covers and exhaust to do it. :-(
what i think it is your stator is miswired and there for your not getting a charge to the battery. text pin your stator to check what wire is supposed to be your charge wire.
What's voltage with motor running and headlights off ?
You need to run the headlights off the yellow wire on the reg so that they don't rely on batt power , I would also look at running a led bar instead of the two massive halogens , draw way less power
Also you should be seeing 14.5v with motor running and some medium revs ,
Is this not running the stock stator that came with the ruckus ?????
whats up with the fuel air ratio
Is the ground the frame/engine? If so you should float the ground from the stator so you have a negative wire going directly to the R/R it will give you a more stable charge then you don't have to worry about grounds.
From personal experience, your battery should be at around 14v+ volts when charging/running the bike and somewhere around 12.3-12.6 when off. Either your battery doesn't charge well or your stator isn't charging the battery
It's a common problem with gy6 engines, sounds like the stator is shot, it happens very often. I've had it happen 3 times last year
Google checking continuity between the stator wires. It will tell you if the stator is bad. Also google checking the regulator/rectifier with your multimeter. I had the same problem on my CB750 and it ended up being the cheaper part fortunately. Stators aren't usually cheap but could be okay for the Ruckus.
Can you swap the battery with one of the other bikes? if it was wired backwards to start you may have damaged it somehow. They can still show a charge but not push enough amps to do anything.
Hold the meter on the battery, check the reading at the normal idol speed and then rev the bike up slowly to full revs and hold it for a few seconds (rear wheel not on the floor for obviously reasons). If the reading goes higher as you rev then you know that the battery is taking the load and the stator is working. Also a good idea, go to a workshop and ask if you can use a "battery load tester" and it will tell you if the battery is shot or not. Make sure you charge the battery before using the load tester as it'll give you the fair reading.
Check that rectifier bro. Had the same problem with my monster and it was the rectifier not rectifying, and the stator was fine.
I'm not well informed on GY6 but I'm pretty sure you need a 6 pole stator? Not the stock stator that comes in most GY6 engines. I could be wrong.
a car build series would be so sick
some bikes don't charge well at idle. lift the back wheel, test what the voltage is from the battery when the revs are up. if you still don't get above 13.5 then either RR or stator is bad
The 13.3+ volts you got right off the charger is a result of something called surface charge. You need to let batteries sit about 5 minutes after any sort of charging for it to equalize. Just for future reference
Try and check the carbs setting, normally you don't need to turn on the choke to stay it idle. Not an expert, but you should try checking it.
It's the little silver box that was what was wrong with mine I could put it on charge and it would crank fine and while it ran it would run fine but when you shut it off it wouldn't start back up. Can't figure out what it is called
Try disconnecting your headlight and ride around and see if it charges the battery correctly. If it doesn't you know you have a stator/charging issue. If it works you know you are having an issue with your battery maintaining the charge. Hope that helps.
You should be able to find the specs for the out-put of your stator voltage and you should be able to run an resistance test to check for an open winding. If that output is correct then it more then likely your voltage regulator / rectifier.. Some of those you can't really check because of the solid state parts used in them.. Also you need to find out what that charging system can put out as far as amps, and see with all you have on that bike that is using power isn't going over what that charging system can put out.
The battery will sit at above 12v for hours, if it's just sitting. The rate at which it was dropping when you had the bike turned on and a load on the battery suggests that it is shot. The charging system is partly the issue, because it should be above 13v when running, and that could be anything from a loose connection to a bad stator. But, replacing the battery should help a lot with your issues.
I would also enlist in the help of good ol' Garden Toilet Snake.
during riding, normal bikes batteries go to about 15 volts... thats the charging voltage.. and when you turn the engine off the battery will drop back to 12.6+ volts... (like in yourn case 13.3-13.5)
you should be getting around 13.80 to 14, charge while bike running,
you need to run volt meter on the cables for the magneto to see you are getting a charge if you ain't there's a problem there or if you have then you have to check all connections,
from top off my head it be your magneto, they charge like a car alternator does on the car,
hello from the UK
Hey man I'm an professional mechanic there a couple things you can test, make sure your stator isn't grounded out, also make sure it is producing a good amount of voltage, test the regulator by seeing if there's any voltage bleeding backwards, also if your meter has a diode tester you can test the regulator that way, hopefully this helps, also call jake i thought that's what all you guys did when you had bike issues lol
it's possible to use the multimeter to check if the stator is any good but you have to find the specs yourself.
Bro why didn't you hook up the meter to the stator output XD
It's supposed to be 13.8 homey. Charging prob. Another aftermarket part failing right out the box.
Your stator might might be lined up wrong.. or its for a lower capacity.. or check on your rectifier.. it might be for a lower engine size and lower voltage output. So instead of over charging it, its just draining your batt on rpm.. but on idle it will give off a charge.. it happend to mine and replaced it with a bigger one, for a big bike a actually and it charges almost to 14.5 and can handle HID, LED, and an air horn. Will a 3 USB and lighter port.
I wanna see you ride the R3. You know, the one you're buying for the next build.
magneto/voltage regulator?
is not the stator because the scooter turns on and rides fine. so you can try another battery and if it does the same is a wiring shortage
I think the first thing to do is run it without the battery. Start it with the battery then remove the negative terminal. If it keeps running the battery is bad, If it dies then the charging circuit is bad. You can test the regulator with the multi-meter on the ohms settings. There is a ton of information on the web to test it, real easy stuff. Or you can buy a new regulator and just swap it out.
Oh, by the way. I am an electronics technician.
The way I used my multi meter which might be different unless this bike has a neutral, you have to rev it and if the regulator is working it shouldn't travel too far past whatever whats the regulator is set to such as 12 volts. If it goes up to 15 16 you might have a bad regulator/ wiring set up, If thats not the case then all thats left would be the stator
and by rev it I mean hold it around 5-6k to see what volts your pushing as that would be a normal light riding rpm
push the resistors back onto the battery on the + wire its happened to me
Hey, Try to check your rectifiers connection. Check if the wires are allignet with the colours. you know, green to green, red to red and so on. I had this issue on my bike. The plug/ connection was right, but the wires dindt sit in the right spots. Hope u know what i mean. Best regards.
Make sure u have one ground going from the frame to the motor
You should have around 14V while running... Could be as simple as raising the idle RPM's or there's something wrong with the charging system (Alternator or rectifier etc)
when the battery is charging, the potential difference should rise beyond 13V (~14.2, 14.4V in many cases) only then will the battery charge. Check the potential difference produced by the stator with:
1. Battery unplugged
2. Battery installed
what it looks like is u have the same issue that my dads 1974 cb200t had the stator is bad and its just running off the battery
Could be your battery cant hold a charge above the 12.8 or whatever it was, might just need that new battery so it has a new full charge voltage..?
doese ruckus have alternator because alternator probobly dont charge the batery while the engine is runing 🤔
Hey Motonosity, is your voltage dropping as you rev it up?
If it drops while you rev it then it's most likely your regulator rectifier.
You can always have your local dealership do a load test on the battery to rule out the whole bad battery cell thing. That will also save you from buying a battery if you don't need it.
Man, I know you just built the Ruckus and it's oh so dope, but I would love to see a custom Grom. I love those little bikes!
Check the amperage also it's more revealing then just voltage.
@Motonosity put your stock stator back on the bike and try it with that. those stator are flawed out of the box quite often. I've been working on mopeds and scooters for years, and I've seen it several times. it could be something on the bike (new lights maybe) is burning to much power. Chinese scooters always have a hard time charging their own batterys, even bone stock. you ruckus is a Honda but the motor isn't, you have to remember that lol. my 150 ruck had so many electrical problems I ended up going the kickstart route.
You have a bad stator or rectifier. You should be up at almost 14v when its running
Your battery should be load tested also (auto parts stores can do that) to see if it is ok (it can go bad due to being drained like it was). It was strange that the voltage dropped as much as it did with just turning the key to on.
Chad Shumaker that's because the headlights turn on with the key on which equals a power drawl. Either the stator is bad. Or the rectifier is blown
u can buy a small voltage meter anywhere so u can monitor the battery without taking everything off
www.miniinthebox.com/0-28-inch-2-5v-30v-mini-digital-voltmeter-voltage-tester-meter_p4679648.html?currency=USD&litb_from=paid_adwords_shopping&sku=429_6920&adword_mt=&adword_ct=154143778448&adword_kw=&adword_pos=1o3&adword_pl=&adword_net=g&adword_tar=&adw_src_id=9772115911_686640436_41030247732_pla-211894547562&gclid=Cj0KEQiA_eXEBRDP8fnIlJDXxsIBEiQAAGfyobRNxxTsZok_duVgRngI1fOer9TeB2rlsXG-stjAjJ4aAsbE8P8HAQ
It's either the stator, the rectifier, or your wiring your harness already had one flaw it might have more
The odds of the stator being bad is pretty slim on the new bike . Definitely go with the rectifier/regulator due to you getting some output. I wish you had disconnected the battery once you got it running to see what is coming out of the regular.. not good on modern vehicles but bike should be all good
CRF please! Seems like we've hardly seen it since you finished the build and started on the ruckus
the gy6 motor doesnt have a good enough stator for the ruckus electronics if u dont upgrade could cause this
Do you have a Rhode Island license plate in the collection?
To me, it seems your lights are pulling a lot of power. Probably too much to where the stator is not able to keep up. First thing I would try is unplugging the lights or at least one of them and go for a ride. See if it still dies.