Oh, thank you for the kind words! It kinda looks to me when it does that (3:00 minute plus or minus) is that the battery is hitting an internal cell over-voltage (3.65V+ on a cell within the battery) and disconnecting charging. When that happens, the Victron's output voltage will spike because it can't react quickly enough to there suddenly being no battery there to push current into. What is likely happening is that the 48V battery is cycling its charging on and off repeatedly while it tries to balance its internal cells. That is, it is probably trying to discharge the high cell(s) and use that to charge the lowest cell(s). But because the balancer is probably only 100mA or something like that, this cycling is only making very slow progress. So my suspicion is that the battery is seriously out of balance,.... BUT IT TURNS OUT I AM WRONG!!! -- Ok, so this has prompted me to lookup that battery. And now call me a bit confused but the table I found might have caused a mei-culpa. Power Queen Battery Series and Best charge voltage: 12V, 14.4V (4 cells, 14.4 / 4.0 = 3.60V/cell) 24V 28.8V (8 cells, 28.8 / 8.0 = 3.60V/cell) 36V 43.2V 48V 54.0V
Basically there are two possibilities here. Either it is the 48V 15-cell battery that was mislabeled as a 51.2V 16-cell battery, in which case the parameters need to be set for 15 cells. In this case the charging parameters are just straight-out too high and it needs a charging target of 53.25V to 54.0V. Or it really is a 51.2V 16-cell battery and it is seriously out of balance. In which case I'd recommend going with the manufacturer charging specs (3.60V/cell x 16 = 57.6V charging target) and holding it there until it is able to get back into balance. You might be able to open that case and count the cells to find out for sure. -Matt
@@junkerzn7312It says 51.2V right on the front of the battery. 15s versions of these packs definitely exist but this one says 51.2V, just like my 16s EG4 battery does. This isn't you making a mistake on looking the right battery up, you probably saw 51.2V while looking at the videos already, and just rechecking your assumptions today. And the "lets only charge it to 80%" kinda testing would in fact cause these packs to go out of balance further since the balancer can only burn off a tiny amount of excess power in the highest voltage cells. Which means the balancing needs to happen at a slightly lower voltage or lower amperage to help it run before declaring itself completely full or the overall pack reaching a voltage where the MPPT will declare it completely full. And I think you're onto something about the voltage jump really being the disconnect starting to engage, or similar behavior, it's simply no longer being allowed to send power into the battery pack for a moment and the circuit voltage spikes. It makes sense, I saw similar when I was tuning my battery voltage parameters and was higher than I should have been. But I forgot about that, it's been a couple years.
@@ProjectsinParadise808 ok. That means the cells were out of balance and the BMS in the battery was cycling charging off and on due to a cell getting too high. If the problems clears up completely with the charge target of 56.8V (3.55V/cell) then you can just run with that. If not, you may have to bring the charging target all the way up to the manufacturers specification which appears to be 57.6V (3.60V/cell) and see if that clears up the problem. As another poster said, if that does clear up the problem but the charge target is too high for your comfort, you can always drop it back down after the battery has gone back into balance and it should stay in good shape for a few months. I personally am very comfortable with a 3.55V/cell (56.8V) charging target in solar applications. I am less comfortable with a 3.60V/cell (57.6V) target. I feel batteries that need a target that high just to activate the balancer have been setup incorrectly by the manufacturer. -Matt
In filling the canyon between my ears I poured over videos by Will Prowse and Andy from off grid garage this led me to limit the photovoltaic amps to 5 amps above the load amps. This along with being able to watch the individual voltages in the pack helps me compare cell differences and be charging at lower amperage. Not sure if it will be enough to reach upper 80% level but it keeps PV output of controller steady
My brother another excellent video. I am using both a PowMr and a Makeskyblue MPPT charge controller each with 750w going to a DIY 48v lifepo4 battery pack with a 3000w WZReliable inverter. I really don't have that experience of spiking with my charge controllers and my charge controllers is set a the same setting you set at.
Sounds about right. I think I absorb for 15. This absorb voltage holds the batteries at a level where the internal balancer can burn a small amount of excess energy from the cells with the highest voltages. On an inexpensive battery, this is the only way to get the cells balanced. I might even run it slightly lower than 55.2V temporarily if it helps the battery charge at low watts for longer until the cells are balanced better. As far as diagnosis goes, you should be able to check the voltage of each internal cell, I can on my EG4s, I have them integrated to victron using the open source serialbattery add-ins. That makes it so I don't have to run the weird Chinese language executables that EG4 pushes out.
I like your channel also! Lots of cool people commenting here 😎. I wish someone would cross reference Victron language over EPEVER language. EPEVER uses different language for the same settings as Victron.
Thanks for the shout out at 1:20. Man this video is great but now I have way more questions and concerns on this type of battery. As junkerzn7312 mentioned could these be 15S? Seems like when I kept seeing 53.67/15 =3.578 the system would cut out vs. 53.67/16=3.35 per cell. One other oddity on the PQ was 90AH vs 100AH and it made me wonder, but I don't know enough. One thing that is now making me seriously consider on the lithium front is the lack of battery communications with EACH cell to see what is really going on. This probably explains why I see many other channels build DIY and/or use chargers to top balance and use smart shunts to validate capacity. One GOOD thing I saw was that the battery did NOT disconnect voltage and brown out the controller or fry it. But just imagine for one moment, four of these PQs in parallel! I mean you would be playing wack a mole driving yourself crazy. Or maybe the point is to NOT watch the meters? Now I walk away after weed wacking the lawn with lithium thinking I need to start all over and think of the long term solution......I am NOT dinging your video, but I can't be the only one going like 'now what?' But hey we're here to learn from one another so it's time well spent on a Sunday evening in cloudy Michigan. Aloha. Gary
It's totally fine to run the Victron preset..It is very similar to other recommended settings..The higher you set your voltage, the faster it charges..The higher you set your voltage the steeper into the charging curve the cells go..With LIFEPO4 you can't really go by %, so what people do to put less stress on the cells is lower the bulk charging to 55.20 volts to keep the cells out of the steep part of the curve, and set the float to 35.60 because that is where the battery likes to rest naturally..If you were to charge your battery full, unplug everything, and come back the next day and measure the voltage it would be right around 53.60...But charging to 55.20 will still allow a full charge..If you were to do a discharge test, you would still get your 90 AH's..Despite what your shunt might say..That is why people run those settings..It's less stress on the cells, but you still get a full charge...With the BMS in those batteries, they tend to balance better at the higher voltage though..But, you could just raise the voltage every few months for two charge cycles and drop back down..But, there is nothing wrong with the preset...
Aloha realeyes! I read everything from yesterday and today so far. Appreciate the time and easy to understand ways you present the information. Mahalo so much for being part of the conversation brother.🤙
@@ProjectsinParadise808 No problem..Actually Victron has probably the best preset out of all of the big name solar charge controllers...I lived off of a lead acid battery bank for 15 years, it was massive, huge cables everywhere..Then I went to the cheap premade LIFEPO4 batteries..And then to building my own out of the cells, because it's higher quality and much more capacity for a better price..Except it's more money up front, and harder financially to piece it together..But, at the end of the day you end up getting far more for far less money..Grade A cells gives you 6000 cycles to 80%, the cells in premade batteries is 3000 cycles to 80%, even if they claim more, they are lying..Like all corporations do..That is why I recommend that route..But, if you already have a bunch of premade batteries, the best thing is just to spread your loads out over all your different voltage systems and use the least amount from all of your batteries, to get the most from them..
I want to thank you for your video yesterday. That video inspired me to go into my settings and set my Absorption to a higher voltage than the pre setting.. I had no idea i could do that. Also messed around with some of the other settings. So thanks for yesterdays video. BTW i got my C.C. do behave they way yours did yesterday with the up and down fluctuation in Wattage. Wow i heard the alarm. My guess you are get an over voltage Alarm from the C.C. You may have to adjust the voltage way under to what you have the settings now. or if thats not possible with in your liking. You may have to try another Inverter with higher voltage limits.
We're on the same island and yep the solar was crazy yesterday dropping from 3300W down to 600W as a huge dark cloud passed by and the MPPT struggled to keep up. That's 3KW of panels going into 2x LiFePO4 5kwh "server rack" style batteries (10kwh total, EG4s). I've never seen the voltage run up high like that on my system. It shouldn't even go up to 58V! I use 2AWG running to my charge controller, I think that may be an important detail with issues like this. I didn't watch closely to see what size you're using today. Charging LiFePO4 to 80% on a server rack battery with a cheap BMS is a bad idea because the cells will never get equalized since that small amount of balancing capability only happens at the very top end of the charge cycle. If you never get to that point, the cells get further and further out of balance in each cycle.
Hey,such nice explainers! If I may ask... How many 48v 200ah batteries can be linked together on a 5.5kw 48v inverter system with 10*550w solar panels? Would it be fine to link 3* 48v 200ah batteries to 5.5kw(max combined usage) inverter system to access +- 28,800watt hours availability from batteries? and also, should I put more than 10*550w panels up if i aim for 5500w(1 to 1 ratio) or is there loss somewhere and i should calculate for more panels to reach 5500w? Thanks so much in advance!
I was looking into your battery specs: It says Charging Voltage should be 54 ± 0,75V maybe its getting a bit more voltage than needed. Maybe setting the absorption to 54v and float to 53.6 to have it at 80% max charge might be what it should be set to.
Looks like BMS doing something like disconnect and re connects . their is a capacitor in the inverter. that voltage spike may be coming from that. You have a light load on that system. this may just be the inverter seeing the voltage spike and grieving a warring. try putting more load on inverter to see if this beep goes away. with 48V the inverter amps will be less. try to test around at battery ,inverter ,charge controller to look for any voltage drops. I have seen a bad connection do things like that. well you could open that 48V battery and test each cell voltage and see if just a unbalance cell. will take some time . lot of cells for 48V .
Aloha Roberto! So since I finished that video the alarm has been non stop. I just did what you said, and plugged in that Oupes power station to the 48v to charge up. Immediately the alarm stopped, but the sun also disappeared so I don't know. I will continuue to work it a bit harder as you say. Mahalo brother for always giving me things to do, and try. 🤙
Along my friend. I'm not sure if yours is the same nor gave I read through all the comments, but the 100AH version is 54v max charging. I realize that it is 15s so you are reaching the over volt on the BMS and it is probably disconnecting charging. The spike you are getting is the power bypassing the battery completely. Could be problem solved.
Ok umm been doing some thinking keep the Voltron to set lithium parameters like normal to reteach the battery to take normal voltage use the normal settings and when the beep goes off shut off the panels power use as normal then when it gets dark turn it back on to ketch tomorrows light then repeat over time it'll start getting higher battery percentage till it's back to all day without over voltage beep. Just my thoughts I'm not sure if it'll work but worth a shot or just get it to 100% the let it sit with no power for a few days and it may train the bms what full is. Try the latter first the do the former if the latter don't work
Does the battery have a bms reset that you could do when the battery is at 100% full or does it just have to sit till it refreshs or i have heard fully kill it then fully recharge it?
That is the typical behaviour of the BMS shutting down for a single cell overvoltage. The BMS is only an on and off switch in 99% of the cases. So if one cell is spiking the BMS will shut down. In my opinion it is not ok. If you want to correct that, the best way is to lower the incoming voltage from the solar charge controller and lower the power coming in, so that the BMS has time to balance the cells with a lower current and keeping it at a constant lower voltage. When the BMS has had enough time it will lower the higher voltage cell and allow a general pack voltage that is higher, doing it bit by bit. If you have a 2ah difference in the highest cell, and consider the BMS has a 100mah balancing current that is on 50% of the time, it will take 40 hours of balancing to be able to correct that deviation. So the best way to do that is with either discharging that single cell, or let the BMS do it with a lower voltage for a couple of days, and the next day you can try to increase it by 0,2v and see how it behaves. If handles it, leave it here for another couple of days and so on. Supposedly, if you let it do it's thing, with a long time of use and cycles it will correct itself. So, lower the charge voltage to 54V (or even lower if needed) and let it sit there for 2 or 3 days, not letting the BMS get to the point of interrupting the charge at all. A BMS switching off, gets spikes of voltage coming from the panels (hence the 60v spikes and inverter alarm), since the charging from the panels is higher than your battery voltage, specially in the bulk stage. If there is more than one cell spiking, the balancing time will take even longer. So lower the voltage for a few days to a point the BMS doesn't shut down, and try increasing it every couple of days. Slow and steady Is the way to go. No need to rush it. Cheers
@@aniketos7336 no there isn't but the symptoms are clear. Going from 650w to almost zero it is not an overcast situation... it is BMS shutdown. The 17w is what is being used by inverter on and maybe 1, 2, 3 watts for bms balancing happening. I've seen this before several times. I fix LiFePO4 batteries as a hobby, and 90% of the times it is a matter of runaway cell due to a poor top-balance, and those are the exact symptoms. Overcast would lower it but not to 2,6% consistently every single time...
@@aniketos7336yeap! I have worked with Daly's (only balance when charging) JBD's (only balance when charging or discharging but not both), and JK's do a great job at this specific matter. And have worked with bms's that you have no clue how they are programmed from factory because you have no way to access the programming. Yes, a JK in this price point is the best option in my opinion.
I noticed when it jumps to 63 volts the amps drop to 0 in charging. I'm thinking the charge controller disconnects and reads a regulated panel voltage without having a charge load.
Remember we're dealing with sealed made in china, with mystery b m s.😂 We're not building diy, high dollar Custom batteries here, No separate balancers. No bluetooth programmable bms😂. We need a Reliable setting that works every time. I'll stick with the Victron preset.🤙😊 i see over 140v on that string and That's close to 150v the controller is Rated for but I think that's ok. I would Definitely consider junkerz comment. If that battery only has fifteen cells. The preset will not work. You need to start a podcast. 🤙😆
Oh, thank you for the kind words!
It kinda looks to me when it does that (3:00 minute plus or minus) is that the battery is hitting an internal cell over-voltage (3.65V+ on a cell within the battery) and disconnecting charging. When that happens, the Victron's output voltage will spike because it can't react quickly enough to there suddenly being no battery there to push current into.
What is likely happening is that the 48V battery is cycling its charging on and off repeatedly while it tries to balance its internal cells. That is, it is probably trying to discharge the high cell(s) and use that to charge the lowest cell(s).
But because the balancer is probably only 100mA or something like that, this cycling is only making very slow progress.
So my suspicion is that the battery is seriously out of balance,.... BUT IT TURNS OUT I AM WRONG!!!
--
Ok, so this has prompted me to lookup that battery. And now call me a bit confused but the table I found might have caused a mei-culpa.
Power Queen
Battery Series and Best charge voltage:
12V, 14.4V (4 cells, 14.4 / 4.0 = 3.60V/cell)
24V 28.8V (8 cells, 28.8 / 8.0 = 3.60V/cell)
36V 43.2V
48V 54.0V
Basically there are two possibilities here. Either it is the 48V 15-cell battery that was mislabeled as a 51.2V 16-cell battery, in which case the parameters need to be set for 15 cells. In this case the charging parameters are just straight-out too high and it needs a charging target of 53.25V to 54.0V.
Or it really is a 51.2V 16-cell battery and it is seriously out of balance. In which case I'd recommend going with the manufacturer charging specs (3.60V/cell x 16 = 57.6V charging target) and holding it there until it is able to get back into balance.
You might be able to open that case and count the cells to find out for sure.
-Matt
@@junkerzn7312It says 51.2V right on the front of the battery. 15s versions of these packs definitely exist but this one says 51.2V, just like my 16s EG4 battery does. This isn't you making a mistake on looking the right battery up, you probably saw 51.2V while looking at the videos already, and just rechecking your assumptions today.
And the "lets only charge it to 80%" kinda testing would in fact cause these packs to go out of balance further since the balancer can only burn off a tiny amount of excess power in the highest voltage cells. Which means the balancing needs to happen at a slightly lower voltage or lower amperage to help it run before declaring itself completely full or the overall pack reaching a voltage where the MPPT will declare it completely full.
And I think you're onto something about the voltage jump really being the disconnect starting to engage, or similar behavior, it's simply no longer being allowed to send power into the battery pack for a moment and the circuit voltage spikes. It makes sense, I saw similar when I was tuning my battery voltage parameters and was higher than I should have been. But I forgot about that, it's been a couple years.
Mahalo Matt...btw it is 16 cell, I popped it open in original video review when it arrived. Aloha!🤙
@@ProjectsinParadise808 ok. That means the cells were out of balance and the BMS in the battery was cycling charging off and on due to a cell getting too high.
If the problems clears up completely with the charge target of 56.8V (3.55V/cell) then you can just run with that. If not, you may have to bring the charging target all the way up to the manufacturers specification which appears to be 57.6V (3.60V/cell) and see if that clears up the problem.
As another poster said, if that does clear up the problem but the charge target is too high for your comfort, you can always drop it back down after the battery has gone back into balance and it should stay in good shape for a few months.
I personally am very comfortable with a 3.55V/cell (56.8V) charging target in solar applications. I am less comfortable with a 3.60V/cell (57.6V) target. I feel batteries that need a target that high just to activate the balancer have been setup incorrectly by the manufacturer.
-Matt
The beeping even woke the cat up ...🐱🍍
🤣Aloha buddy!🏄🏼🤙
In filling the canyon between my ears I poured over videos by Will Prowse and Andy from off grid garage this led me to limit the photovoltaic amps to 5 amps above the load amps. This along with being able to watch the individual voltages in the pack helps me compare cell differences and be charging at lower amperage. Not sure if it will be enough to reach upper 80% level but it keeps PV output of controller steady
My brother another excellent video. I am using both a PowMr and a Makeskyblue MPPT charge controller each with 750w going to a DIY 48v lifepo4 battery pack with a 3000w WZReliable inverter. I really don't have that experience of spiking with my charge controllers and my charge controllers is set a the same setting you set at.
Set asorbtion to 55.2 with 45 min asorbtion time and float at 54 volts works perfect
Sounds about right. I think I absorb for 15. This absorb voltage holds the batteries at a level where the internal balancer can burn a small amount of excess energy from the cells with the highest voltages. On an inexpensive battery, this is the only way to get the cells balanced.
I might even run it slightly lower than 55.2V temporarily if it helps the battery charge at low watts for longer until the cells are balanced better.
As far as diagnosis goes, you should be able to check the voltage of each internal cell, I can on my EG4s, I have them integrated to victron using the open source serialbattery add-ins. That makes it so I don't have to run the weird Chinese language executables that EG4 pushes out.
I like your channel also!
Lots of cool people commenting here 😎.
I wish someone would cross reference
Victron language over EPEVER language. EPEVER uses different language for the same settings as Victron.
Always like see you in here too bdog! I'll try to do that for ya since I ran the Epevers first so I know exactly what you mean! Aloha!🤙
I am using Epever now in RV. And my system is working very good ,
But I think that it could be fine tuned better 😉
Have a great day man !
Great video love your channel ❤
Mahalo Florida gal! 🤙🌴
Thanks for the shout out at 1:20. Man this video is great but now I have way more questions and concerns on this type of battery. As junkerzn7312 mentioned could these be 15S? Seems like when I kept seeing 53.67/15 =3.578 the system would cut out vs. 53.67/16=3.35 per cell. One other oddity on the PQ was 90AH vs 100AH and it made me wonder, but I don't know enough. One thing that is now making me seriously consider on the lithium front is the lack of battery communications with EACH cell to see what is really going on. This probably explains why I see many other channels build DIY and/or use chargers to top balance and use smart shunts to validate capacity. One GOOD thing I saw was that the battery did NOT disconnect voltage and brown out the controller or fry it. But just imagine for one moment, four of these PQs in parallel! I mean you would be playing wack a mole driving yourself crazy. Or maybe the point is to NOT watch the meters? Now I walk away after weed wacking the lawn with lithium thinking I need to start all over and think of the long term solution......I am NOT dinging your video, but I can't be the only one going like 'now what?' But hey we're here to learn from one another so it's time well spent on a Sunday evening in cloudy Michigan. Aloha. Gary
I opened this up in original review. It has 16 cells. I am still learning, and for sure still playing whack a mole some...Aloha! 🤙
Love the video and conversation in the comments! Aloha
Me too! Love the conversations! Aloha!🤙
It's totally fine to run the Victron preset..It is very similar to other recommended settings..The higher you set your voltage, the faster it charges..The higher you set your voltage the steeper into the charging curve the cells go..With LIFEPO4 you can't really go by %, so what people do to put less stress on the cells is lower the bulk charging to 55.20 volts to keep the cells out of the steep part of the curve, and set the float to 35.60 because that is where the battery likes to rest naturally..If you were to charge your battery full, unplug everything, and come back the next day and measure the voltage it would be right around 53.60...But charging to 55.20 will still allow a full charge..If you were to do a discharge test, you would still get your 90 AH's..Despite what your shunt might say..That is why people run those settings..It's less stress on the cells, but you still get a full charge...With the BMS in those batteries, they tend to balance better at the higher voltage though..But, you could just raise the voltage every few months for two charge cycles and drop back down..But, there is nothing wrong with the preset...
Aloha realeyes! I read everything from yesterday and today so far. Appreciate the time and easy to understand ways you present the information. Mahalo so much for being part of the conversation brother.🤙
@@ProjectsinParadise808 No problem..Actually Victron has probably the best preset out of all of the big name solar charge controllers...I lived off of a lead acid battery bank for 15 years, it was massive, huge cables everywhere..Then I went to the cheap premade LIFEPO4 batteries..And then to building my own out of the cells, because it's higher quality and much more capacity for a better price..Except it's more money up front, and harder financially to piece it together..But, at the end of the day you end up getting far more for far less money..Grade A cells gives you 6000 cycles to 80%, the cells in premade batteries is 3000 cycles to 80%, even if they claim more, they are lying..Like all corporations do..That is why I recommend that route..But, if you already have a bunch of premade batteries, the best thing is just to spread your loads out over all your different voltage systems and use the least amount from all of your batteries, to get the most from them..
I want to thank you for your video yesterday. That video inspired me to go into my settings and set my Absorption to a higher voltage than the pre setting.. I had no idea i could do that. Also messed around with some of the other settings. So thanks for yesterdays video. BTW i got my C.C. do behave they way yours did yesterday with the up and down fluctuation in Wattage. Wow i heard the alarm. My guess you are get an over voltage Alarm from the C.C. You may have to adjust the voltage way under to what you have the settings now. or if thats not possible with in your liking. You may have to try another Inverter with higher voltage limits.
Mahalo for all your contribution to my friend. I learn from all of you sharing your experiences...Aloha!🤙
@@ProjectsinParadise808 my pleasure
We're on the same island and yep the solar was crazy yesterday dropping from 3300W down to 600W as a huge dark cloud passed by and the MPPT struggled to keep up. That's 3KW of panels going into 2x LiFePO4 5kwh "server rack" style batteries (10kwh total, EG4s). I've never seen the voltage run up high like that on my system. It shouldn't even go up to 58V!
I use 2AWG running to my charge controller, I think that may be an important detail with issues like this. I didn't watch closely to see what size you're using today.
Charging LiFePO4 to 80% on a server rack battery with a cheap BMS is a bad idea because the cells will never get equalized since that small amount of balancing capability only happens at the very top end of the charge cycle. If you never get to that point, the cells get further and further out of balance in each cycle.
Can be challenging out here yeah. All in all doing pretty good. over build some arrays for those conditions which are just normal out here! Aloha! 🤙
Hey,such nice explainers! If I may ask...
How many 48v 200ah batteries can be linked together on a 5.5kw 48v inverter system with 10*550w solar panels?
Would it be fine to link 3* 48v 200ah batteries to 5.5kw(max combined usage) inverter system to access +- 28,800watt hours availability from batteries?
and also, should I put more than 10*550w panels up if i aim for 5500w(1 to 1 ratio) or is there loss somewhere and i should calculate for more panels to reach 5500w?
Thanks so much in advance!
I was looking into your battery specs: It says Charging Voltage should be 54 ± 0,75V maybe its getting a bit more voltage than needed. Maybe setting the absorption to 54v and float to 53.6 to have it at 80% max charge might be what it should be set to.
Looks like BMS doing something like disconnect and re connects . their is a capacitor in the inverter. that voltage spike may be coming from that. You have a light load on that system. this may just be the inverter seeing the voltage spike and grieving a warring. try putting more load on inverter to see if this beep goes away. with 48V the inverter amps will be less. try to test around at battery ,inverter ,charge controller
to look for any voltage drops. I have seen a bad connection do things like that. well you could open that 48V battery and test each cell voltage and see if just a unbalance cell. will take some time . lot of cells for 48V .
Aloha Roberto! So since I finished that video the alarm has been non stop. I just did what you said, and plugged in that Oupes power station to the 48v to charge up. Immediately the alarm stopped, but the sun also disappeared so I don't know. I will continuue to work it a bit harder as you say. Mahalo brother for always giving me things to do, and try. 🤙
Along my friend. I'm not sure if yours is the same nor gave I read through all the comments, but the 100AH version is 54v max charging. I realize that it is 15s so you are reaching the over volt on the BMS and it is probably disconnecting charging. The spike you are getting is the power bypassing the battery completely. Could be problem solved.
You have to set it manually to a lower charge voltage
Ok umm been doing some thinking keep the Voltron to set lithium parameters like normal to reteach the battery to take normal voltage use the normal settings and when the beep goes off shut off the panels power use as normal then when it gets dark turn it back on to ketch tomorrows light then repeat over time it'll start getting higher battery percentage till it's back to all day without over voltage beep. Just my thoughts I'm not sure if it'll work but worth a shot or just get it to 100% the let it sit with no power for a few days and it may train the bms what full is. Try the latter first the do the former if the latter don't work
Does the battery have a bms reset that you could do when the battery is at 100% full or does it just have to sit till it refreshs or i have heard fully kill it then fully recharge it?
Why don't you get a screw driver and open the lid? Check the cells voltage to get to the bottom of it!
HI love the channel try to lower the PV Voltage down to 100 Volt to 120 Volt and see if that works
Mahalo!🤙
Just check there isn't a branch from a tree or bush that is blowing in the breeze and moving a shadow on an off a panel. haha. 😉
That is the typical behaviour of the BMS shutting down for a single cell overvoltage.
The BMS is only an on and off switch in 99% of the cases. So if one cell is spiking the BMS will shut down.
In my opinion it is not ok. If you want to correct that, the best way is to lower the incoming voltage from the solar charge controller and lower the power coming in, so that the BMS has time to balance the cells with a lower current and keeping it at a constant lower voltage. When the BMS has had enough time it will lower the higher voltage cell and allow a general pack voltage that is higher, doing it bit by bit.
If you have a 2ah difference in the highest cell, and consider the BMS has a 100mah balancing current that is on 50% of the time, it will take 40 hours of balancing to be able to correct that deviation.
So the best way to do that is with either discharging that single cell, or let the BMS do it with a lower voltage for a couple of days, and the next day you can try to increase it by 0,2v and see how it behaves. If handles it, leave it here for another couple of days and so on.
Supposedly, if you let it do it's thing, with a long time of use and cycles it will correct itself.
So, lower the charge voltage to 54V (or even lower if needed) and let it sit there for 2 or 3 days, not letting the BMS get to the point of interrupting the charge at all.
A BMS switching off, gets spikes of voltage coming from the panels (hence the 60v spikes and inverter alarm), since the charging from the panels is higher than your battery voltage, specially in the bulk stage.
If there is more than one cell spiking, the balancing time will take even longer.
So lower the voltage for a few days to a point the BMS doesn't shut down, and try increasing it every couple of days. Slow and steady Is the way to go. No need to rush it.
Cheers
that was my impression of yesterdays video as well. but from what ive seen there is no bluetooth app to view the bms on the power queens.
@@aniketos7336 no there isn't but the symptoms are clear. Going from 650w to almost zero it is not an overcast situation... it is BMS shutdown. The 17w is what is being used by inverter on and maybe 1, 2, 3 watts for bms balancing happening. I've seen this before several times. I fix LiFePO4 batteries as a hobby, and 90% of the times it is a matter of runaway cell due to a poor top-balance, and those are the exact symptoms.
Overcast would lower it but not to 2,6% consistently every single time...
@@ricardomarcelino8388 thats what i like about the jk bms. That 1-2 amp balancer is a game changer. Never have to worry about balance.
@@aniketos7336yeap! I have worked with Daly's (only balance when charging) JBD's (only balance when charging or discharging but not both), and JK's do a great job at this specific matter. And have worked with bms's that you have no clue how they are programmed from factory because you have no way to access the programming.
Yes, a JK in this price point is the best option in my opinion.
I noticed when it jumps to 63 volts the amps drop to 0 in charging. I'm thinking the charge controller disconnects and reads a regulated panel voltage without having a charge load.
Remember we're dealing with sealed made in china, with mystery b m s.😂 We're not building diy, high dollar Custom batteries here, No separate balancers. No bluetooth programmable bms😂. We need a Reliable setting that works every time. I'll stick with the Victron preset.🤙😊 i see over 140v on that string and That's close to 150v the controller is Rated for but I think that's ok. I would Definitely consider junkerz comment. If that battery only has fifteen cells. The preset will not work. You need to start a podcast. 🤙😆
Day in and day out Victron presets for my systems too! 🤙
I did see 59.85
Yep...🤙