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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- After scouring the internet for information about how to change the ZLE's A10 transmission fluid, I stumbled upon the installation instructions for the @GeneralMotors Performance Catalog installation instructions for the LT4/A10 street-rod crate package. Since there is a vast difference for all custom street-rods, it made perfect sense there has to be a way to judge the proper fluid capacity on a transmission that does NOT have a dipstick.
If you have one of these amazing #ZL1 #1LE #A10 Camaros, the performance is exceptional and the maintenance required is no less shocking! The Owner's Performance Supplement requires a transmission fluid change at 15-hours of track time, specific oil changes for track use and street use. The required 15w50 Mobil1 is for track use only and has to be changed every four hours of trackday use.
My protocol for Trackday prep is a transmission fluid change prior to each event as the fluid is a small price to pay for the thermal difference it makes by dropping the transmission fluid temperatures below 280 degrees of the stock fluid after 45 minutes of track time at #BarberMotorsportsPark for the @JzillaTrackDays event.
The MityVac MV7110 is truly a game-changer for doing any kind of fluid changes and when owning a #ZLE, it is worth every penny.
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If you have any questions about the trackday prep or the other changes to my ZLE Camaro, please leave a comment and I thank you for watching my videos!
Here is a great PDF on the 10L90 Equipped ZL1 1LE platform.
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Anyone know the size of the hex?
8 mm
I cut mine back with a slight angle to make easier to get it in the narrow area. Be sure to subscribe as I’ll be updating the channel with the front end install to include all the new heat exchangers.
So that Amsoil ATF will substitute for the AC Delco Dexron ULV 10-4107 (ultra low viscosity) that GM specs for the 10 speed automatic?
Yes it does. I run the same ATF in my ZLE as I do my RAM 3500 Dually with the Aisin transmission pulling a 18k boat and trailer up the I-5 Mount Shasta pass at 60mph with zero issues! The fluid only gained 10 degrees temp with outside air temps of 104 degrees!!
David, awesome video. I was under the car looking at mine yesterday and I could not figure out how I was gonna get a tool on that plug. Is there a special tool to get in that tiny space and get that fill plug out? It is a super tight space.
I cut down a hex wrench to make it work
Can I use that Amsoil for normal driving too and how many quarts will it take without taking the pan down
Yes and it’s better than the factory fill. I have have been running Amsoil products for years, the results are always excellent gains in cooler operation when pushing the limits
Love the video as I have a ZL1 1LE 10L90. Not sure why you drained fluid from both locations, the stand pipe and the allen plug on the side of the case. Why? Thanks, Robert
Drained it from the standpipe to show the fluid doesn’t drain out completely. The pipe plug also doesn’t drain out which is why you need the MityVac.
Is this the same transmission that ford and GM built together ?
It is my understanding that, yes it is. Once the development was completed there were some legal issues that Ford pulled which kept GM from having it in the Camaro while Ford got a head start.
So can this be done with the engine cold then? I lost about a quart during an engine swap due to the cooler lines being disconnected.
Sorry it has taken a while to follow up. Yes, I’ve filled mine when cold. I buy those cotton swabs on the long wooden stem so I can bend it to reach into the pipe plug used as a fill port and I’m just confirming the level is full to the edge, just barely dripping to the threads. If you’re getting a little fluid if it’s warmed up then just let it trickle and install the plug.
@@DavidWilks I tried to heat my trans up on blocks at idle and man it took forever just to get to 158 degrees. I opened the plug on the bottom at that temp and maybe 2 drips came out so I'm pretty sure I'm low a little bit. I may just throw a quart in that side port when it's cold and see what does. Hopefully I can get it to drip out a bit and call it good.
If, instead of welding aluminum strips to the pan, why does no one make the strips out of copper? I just bought a bunch of used ones from ebay that were used for electrical use. I'm thinking about perhaps tapping and maybe bolting them from the inside. I'm not sure. I spent an hour looking at tons of heat sink materials, mostly for computors. They have come a long way whereas automotive seems to stay in the 60s.
Copper displaced TWICE the heat as aluminum.
I forgot to mention something. If I had the money I'd consider copper plating the outside.
The only reason for the aluminum strips is to increase surface area on the pan so while the car is in the paddock area after a run, the fluid in the pan that is NOT circulating can be cooled by the blower fan I place at the front lip of the car. These high velocity blowers from #HarborFreight are amazing at getting the heat out from under the car. On the track and at speed, the fluid is cooled by the heat exchanger in the front of the car... and that alone is a design I am also looking to improve.
@@DavidWilks You are building an aluminum heat sink. I am simply mentioning that one from copper transfers twice the heat.
Your computer heat sink also uses a dc fan.
Btw, there is a company that welds tubes to the pan.
Do you have link to that manual
Did I not put it in the description? If not, email me and I will send the PDF file
So you just fill it til it drips out and then you don’t need to check thru the level check plug(stand pipe) ? I believe it would be same procedure for 10l80 trans correct? It’s way easier to fill it like this every where else I seen it says pump it thru the bottom fill hole(stand pipe)
Indeed it’s way easier! Over 7500 miles since doing it this way with the majority of them being on a race track. Watch my latest video to see we hammered this transmission for hundreds of miles to push the car against very formidable and crazy fast modified Porsche cars with very seasoned drivers, and no shifting issues.
@@DavidWilks ok cool I'll watch it so is the plug easy to get out with a shallow allen key? Its real close to the "frame" also do you need to use thread sealant when putting it back in
@@heatfan1502
I cut a hex wrench with a long handle and beveled the outer edge to make it easier in the tight space. The plug is tapered and steel, so I have not put any sealant on it as the difference in metals with ATF fluid on them would possibly make bigger issues if the sealant got into the transmission
Did you notice a difference other than lower temp with the Amsoil?
Can this fill procedure be done while the engine is cold or does it need to be heated?
Great job David
Thanks!! I love this car and want to create great content for the upgrades to make it truly reliable during extended runs on the racetracks at full-send!