thanks im gonna try that, ive been trying to change one today and couldnt get the new bolt in!! 4 hours!!!!!!!! so ill try the lonnger bolt thing thanks
Tonight I replace the bushings on my 2002 Jetta wagon MK4 2.0L. There are two problems with getting the rubber bushing installed and getting the bolt started. Problem one is some of the non OEM brackets are machined off enough that they won't align even when compressed. I ditched the new ones and used the originals again and boy did that go better! Secondly, it's a tight spot to work in with very few spots for leverage. In the end I found a few tricks. For the drivers side I turned the steering wheel hard right to get the rubber boot out of the way. I use a small pair of needle nosed vice grips to compress the bushing and bracket smashed down and locked it in place. It was tough! Grab a little edge of the bracket with the needle nose and suck it up hard. It took all the strength I had to get the bracket close enough to start the bolt by hand. Make sure you do a run by hand with the bolt and no bushing to make sure the threads are clean and start by hand easy! On the passenger side there is a bit more room. I used a Jorgenson cabinet clamp (a C clamp could work too?); one side on the top of the u clamp that holds the bushing and the other on the front of the control arm. But it kept slipping off the control arm so I used vice grips on the control arm to prevent the clamp from slipping; I tightened the clamp and got the bolt started by hand fine. I use a generous amount of blue loctite medium thread locker to prevent corrosion (block oxygen) and to lock it in. This makes it easier to get back out later. For lube: silicone based for rubber. Maybe something else for the urethane? Note to self yet again: I would stick with OEM on these kinds of projects and before you order note there are different sized sway bars depending on if it is GL GLS etc....my GLS uses 23mm bushings. There is a smaller sway bar too. A good way is to measure or use the VIN and call the stealership for the exact part number.
Thanks for sharing your procedure. It's definitely difficult to get the bushing compressed enough to get the bolt started. I'm glad that you got the job done! Good work 👍
Hey I'm certain you mounted this new bushings upside down :) How I know, first I was replacing mine same number but I had the new type already, second I watched before video from another person and he showed the same what I saw on my car that the longer side is always facing down, third you can see on the bracket and bushing the hump doesn't correspond on yours and if you turn them over it will.
Hi, Great video. Congrats. I have a passat b7 2014 2.5L and I want to replace the bushings, can I replace the bushing only or do I need to replace the sway also? Do you think can I use the same oem part numbers or for the passat are different? I ask that because I only found on Internet the complete kit sway front bar bushing etc
Bruno Nava - Thanks for watching! You can definitely replace just the bushings on your Passat. They are different from the ones that I used in this video though. I found these online: www.ecstuning.com/b-powerflex-parts/volkswagen-passat-mk6-3c-2006-front-anti-roll-bar-bushing-type-streetsize-217mm/pff85-503-21.7x2/
A prybar will help w/leverage and compressing the top of the bracket...see the humble mechanic's video on the same subject...the problem I ran into was compressing the new bushings (even w/a prybar) to start the bolt by hand...on my 23mm bar, the bushings ordered had a 21mm hole; needless to say it was extremely difficult and I had everything out while doing a lca swap...I gave up and left the old (14yo) bushings in and the new ones will get put in when I wa want to crawl under there again...
4mins well spent watching this, saved many times that
Saved me some cash, great and to the point vid. Thanks!!! 👍
Glad to hear that. Thank you for the comment!
Very good camera work and explanation Cory.
Stashu - Thank you! I try my best.
There is another way to get the bolt in. You need to use a longer bolt first and compress the bushing tight. Then remove it and install normal bolt.
Evren - Great tip! I just didn't have a longer bolt available when I did this. I'll get one for the next time. Thanks!
thanks im gonna try that, ive been trying to change one today and couldnt get the new bolt in!! 4 hours!!!!!!!! so ill try the lonnger bolt thing thanks
what a superb little tip that is, thank you. Saved me a lotta bother
Tonight I replace the bushings on my 2002 Jetta wagon MK4 2.0L. There are two problems with getting the rubber bushing installed and getting the bolt started. Problem one is some of the non OEM brackets are machined off enough that they won't align even when compressed. I ditched the new ones and used the originals again and boy did that go better! Secondly, it's a tight spot to work in with very few spots for leverage. In the end I found a few tricks. For the drivers side I turned the steering wheel hard right to get the rubber boot out of the way. I use a small pair of needle nosed vice grips to compress the bushing and bracket smashed down and locked it in place. It was tough! Grab a little edge of the bracket with the needle nose and suck it up hard. It took all the strength I had to get the bracket close enough to start the bolt by hand. Make sure you do a run by hand with the bolt and no bushing to make sure the threads are clean and start by hand easy! On the passenger side there is a bit more room. I used a Jorgenson cabinet clamp (a C clamp could work too?); one side on the top of the u clamp that holds the bushing and the other on the front of the control arm. But it kept slipping off the control arm so I used vice grips on the control arm to prevent the clamp from slipping; I tightened the clamp and got the bolt started by hand fine. I use a generous amount of blue loctite medium thread locker to prevent corrosion (block oxygen) and to lock it in. This makes it easier to get back out later. For lube: silicone based for rubber. Maybe something else for the urethane? Note to self yet again: I would stick with OEM on these kinds of projects and before you order note there are different sized sway bars depending on if it is GL GLS etc....my GLS uses 23mm bushings. There is a smaller sway bar too. A good way is to measure or use the VIN and call the stealership for the exact part number.
Thanks for sharing your procedure. It's definitely difficult to get the bushing compressed enough to get the bolt started. I'm glad that you got the job done! Good work 👍
Thats d hardest work i working on my 306Peugeot wagon n its d same set up bt really hard
It is very difficult, yes.
Thank you !!
I guess now is the time , since the engine is out.
I've had about 100 of those "while you're in there" things to do
MrHillfolk - You're welcome!
Hey I'm certain you mounted this new bushings upside down :) How I know, first I was replacing mine same number but I had the new type already, second I watched before video from another person and he showed the same what I saw on my car that the longer side is always facing down, third you can see on the bracket and bushing the hump doesn't correspond on yours and if you turn them over it will.
Mateusz I don't think I did? The bushing gets smashed pretty good when you tighten the bracket down, so it might not matter.
Read my post again I edited it with more explanation.
Mateusz Good point. Thanks for your concern!
Check out ruclips.net/video/MXiVIeYi8GQ/видео.html
Mateusz I'm pretty sure it's upside down; replaced mine yesterday - like for like. Other than that great & informative video 👍
good work bud 💪
Hay que hacer el paralelo si cambias esas gomas?
I don't understand what you mean by that? Make what parallel?
Hi,
Great video. Congrats.
I have a passat b7 2014 2.5L and I want to replace the bushings, can I replace the bushing only or do I need to replace the sway also?
Do you think can I use the same oem part numbers or for the passat are different?
I ask that because I only found on Internet the complete kit sway front bar bushing etc
Bruno Nava - Thanks for watching! You can definitely replace just the bushings on your Passat. They are different from the ones that I used in this video though. I found these online: www.ecstuning.com/b-powerflex-parts/volkswagen-passat-mk6-3c-2006-front-anti-roll-bar-bushing-type-streetsize-217mm/pff85-503-21.7x2/
Good video
Looks like the bush is on upside down the bit that sticks out on the bush is supposed to point down. 🤔
You might be right. I don't know if it really matters that much because I have been running it like this for many years now without any issue.
@@Corysdiyauto spot on then. And thanks for the vid im attempting mine next weekend 👍
@@mikeehagues3511 You're welcome and good luck with it!
What if the bolt snaps?😢
Oh nooo, sorry for your luck. Try to drill a hole in it and use a bolt extractor to remove it.
@@Corysdiyauto i dont think theres space to do that i will try
@k1du913 - A right angle drill may work.
Thank you !
Luis Cosme - You're welcome!
A prybar will help w/leverage and compressing the top of the bracket...see the humble mechanic's video on the same subject...the problem I ran into was compressing the new bushings (even w/a prybar) to start the bolt by hand...on my 23mm bar, the bushings ordered had a 21mm hole; needless to say it was extremely difficult and I had everything out while doing a lca swap...I gave up and left the old (14yo) bushings in and the new ones will get put in when I wa
want to crawl under there again...
K03sport - That's too bad to hear about the wrong size bushings. What model is your Golf?
Mk4s up to model year 2000 uses the smaller, 21mm hole.
I had same problem did same thing. I ordered the part from VW dealership instead. Got the VW ones to install.