Your tilting solar bike trailer brought me to your channel, and I can tell I am going to spend a lot of time here! Just FYI, Bosch does make the exact same charger in a 2 amp version. I saw them on eBay when I was looking for a 2nd 4 amp one.
amazing skills & details thanks ! always wanted to get a variable charger to charge 80% ... also wanted to monitor pack voltage , thanks for the 5v idea
Can you offer any more info on how to go about this please? Just trying to get my head around it now - got my Bosch cable in bits just trying the best way to enable it with the 5v line. Like where does the negative 5v line go? Ta!
Nice, I finally a use a Pure Sine Wave Inverter, directly connected to my battery... I did some test with a booster, it burn... you right to take a bigger one with fan. you probably have a 5v on board to manage IC.
Your charger is great! Little cooler will totally reduce heating. 2 amps is too low current for charging 500 battery. It would be better to make special line from your car battery to new cigarette socket with a thicker wires and 10 amps fuse. To ensure not to overheat charger, you can add cheap electronic hot fuse. It will cut charger on desired temperature, and even sound a beep. For instance if cooler occasionally blocked.
Awesome! Just wiring up my Bosch charger plug to my solar stuff now. Can you tell me more about how you wired the 5v line? I assume the positive 5v goes to the third Bosch wire but what about the negative 5v line? Thanks!
bonjour je suis arrivé à comprendre et imprime la fiche de conection, néanmoins j'ai une question lorsque l'on teste la sortie du chargeur d'origine il n'y aucune tentions par contre à la sortie de notre fiche on a bien 42v et 5v, je n'ai pas encore osé brancher la batterie 🤔
Nice to see how you did it 🙂 It seems that the 5V control signal is only "enabling" the charge, so ~ 1 MillAmps on the 5 Volt should be plenty to enable charging. Future project for me: Charge the Bosch e-bike battery from a solar panel (PV). Thanks! -Willem
Thank alot for the great video. I want to buy a battery tester but i did not know how to hook it up because of that third wire. otherwise the battery doss not give power. 1 question :) is it a contstant 5v or is it a puls?
Hi Chris, fun project, hung up on current adjustment 8(, the current seems to pulsate from nothing to about 1.2 amp, seem in sync with battery LED. Had to swap the 5v adapter, it was was DOA, wonder if DROK 1500W Voltage Regulator is defective?] thx-mik
Could i use one of these chargers on a ECO-WORTHY 12V 20Ah Lithium Battery, 3000+ Deep Cycle if i built one of these to charge my e bike out on the road. Just trying to figure out how to use these two batteries I got to charge my e-bike on the trail.
Is there a product link to buy the bosch battery output plug? If i want to buy a new one it comes with the 230V adapter (i live in the EU), which is really expensive! Does someone know a cheaper alternative/has a weblink?
I tried this for my ebike but the battery does not charge. The indicator LEDs blink once to indicate charging and then they hold steady. My battery is a Bosch PowerPack Frame 500Wh, do you know which battery you are using in the video? It looks slightly different. I also tested the ebike's included charger and it has no voltage accross the 40V PIN, only the 5V pin, so I wonder if this battery might be doing some communication?
Hi Chris, I want to use a spare bosch battery to power a telescope and other accessories. All stuff are 12-14 V and max 4 A of total current. This connector is perfect! Thanks! In your opinion I Need just a 36 to 12 V converter and use power from + and - pins or I need to connect the third pole to somewhere else (es. 5v)?
Hi Chris, it's a great video! There is something I might not fully understood, the third pin is it actually taking 5V out/in the battery? What I'm trying to do is to reverse the system to plug a different battery in the Bosch motor, so understanding if the third pin is taking some volt from the battery might be essential! Thank you for any help in advance
The Bosch system is propretiary. The display, battery and motor controller all appear to talk to each other in an unknown/encrypted? protocol. You just can't use an ordinary battery :-(
Awesome video!!! Thanks a lot for putting this out! This is especially appealing to me because I would like to save precious battery capacity by not wasting anything at converting firstly to 230V AC and then back to 36V/42V DC. So I hope I could save the loss of my converter. Assuming the 230V converter, the original Bosch charger and your self made charger all have an efficiency factor of 90%. I would take just with the self made charger 625Wh/12V/0,9 = 58Ah out of the battery instead of 625WH/12V/0,9/0,9 = 64 Ah with the converter in between. In reality it's probably even more because the Bosch chargers are supposed to get pretty warm, so they dissipate probably more than 10% into heat. Though before I start I have a few doubts. Maybe you can help @SerendipitySue with clearing some up :) 1. Does the original charger have some kind of smart or adjusted charging characteristics or does it also only charge with constant voltage? So basically, could I harm the battery when using this self made charger? 2. My original charger has an output of 36V you set yours to 42V. Could this extra 6V harm the battery? 3. Could I also crank up the output current to 6A as the Bosch fast charger does it? I would of course make sure that I hook up the step up converter directly to the battery with thick enough cables and a fuse (something like 16qmm cables and a 40A fuse). Or once again could this 6A constant voltage charging do any harm to the battery? 4. Is there a possibility to use a switch to turn the step up converter on and off? Since I would like to mount it close to the battery in my camper I would like to be able to turn it off when not used. 5. I heard somebody else using a 1200W version for the step up converter. I guess this should work as well. It's a bit cheaper than the 1500W, which you used in the end, and it doesn't need a fan. 6. How much would voltage changes in my battery affect the output voltage of the step up converter? Is it linear? So let's say if I'm driving or getting lots of sun power my batteries get charged with up to 14,5V, maybe even peaks of 15V. If the battery doesn't get charged its nominal voltage is 12,8V. During use it could drop down to something like 11V. So, if I calibrate the step up converter at 14,5V to give an output of 42V it steps the voltage up by a factor of 2,9. The same factor would mean for 12,8V an output of 37,1V, with 11V -> 31,9V and with 15V -> 43,4V. Could this be an issue during use? What could be an appropriate range, so which max voltage shouldn't I surpass and which min voltage shouldn't I undercut and how could I make sure not to? 6. What might be the reasons why doesn't Bosch offer a 12V charger anymore? I heard they used to have one. Maybe because of these mentioned, difficult to control voltage ranges from 11V-15V during a typical 12V car use? I'm getting excited here! I'm even thinking about getting me a voltmeter with USB tracking software and using my old windows laptop for the win/ubuntu only software, so I can monitor the whole loading cycle of my original Bosch charger to see, if there is any magic in terms of different loading voltage at different stages or not :D
Ok, I found out a few things by myself :) Mainly from this German guy who does something similar: ruclips.net/video/LD110uMoMbs/видео.html Regarding #1. and #2. I think as far as I understood there are no "smart adjustments" from the charger for the charging voltages. Constant 42V seems to be ok since this is the last voltage it needs to get fully loaded. Though the BMS cycle counting might be affected by this setup. This guy said, that he heard of others where the BMS increased the total charging cycles by up to 100 or so during one of those charges. Because somehow with this 5V signal the BMS gets the impressions that several charges are taking place in a row. I didn't fully understand it yet, though it seems to have happend. So if you are conscerned about warranty or questions in any way at your service interval, this might be a risk. #3 I think 6A would be possible too, though I didn't get any confirmation anywhere yet. This guy on that channel was limited by the input current of 15A of his step up converter ( it was a small one, maybe also 150W or so). He set the input current to 13A and reached 3A output with this. #4 Not sure about a switch yet, though somehow of course possible. If no other option one can swith of course the input 12V on /off with a high current switch. #5 1200W-1500W seems like a good size to me. With or without fan I'm not sure. This guy recommended a fan, though he had also a smaller converter which produced more heat, which we of course actually don't want since it's energy loss. #6 I totally misunderstood the step up converter so far. Apparently the once set output voltage is fixed and the converter reaches it with it's range of input voltages. One additional tip was to use diodes for the two charging cables because at the beginning the BMS sends a current itself which could harm the Step up converter. Not sure if this is really necessary, though it was his tipp.
Wow! So many questions. Thanks for the reference to the German video. I wish I could read/understand German. Also take a look at my other video ( ruclips.net/video/YejPGydMOnw/видео.html ) where I use the Grin Cycle Satiator to charge. You can't put much more than 5.5A into the Bosch Powerpack 500 before the BMS shuts down charging. The heavy duty DC-DC converter can output this, but you will want to directly connect it to your car battery. The cigarette lighter socket and fuse can't handle that much power A "36V" LiOn battery has a range of 30-42V. 42V is fully charged.
@@SerendipitySue Thanks for the answer! 1. You can watch the german video with autogenerated English subtitles :) 2. Ok, in the other video you mentioned, that you went up to 6,5A for a Bosch battery. This fast charging option seems very interesting. 3. Of course I would mount the converter directly to my 200Ah Lithium Battery in my camper and also with thick enough cables and a fuse 4. So what do you mean with this range of 30-42V. Does it harm the battery when I charge it constantly with 42V? Or can I somehow adjust the voltage for different charging cycles? 5.The thing which is holding me back the most are those reports that with this constant 5V signal the BMS thinks there are several full charging cycles taking place and that the count for charging cycles might go extremely high which doesn't look good at my yearly service since I have an insurance on the whole bike and also the battery ;)
Are there any updates to the BMS counting way too many charging cycles with this method? Because this is the one thing which is still holding me back from building one for my battery, since I have an insurance for my battery, I don’t want there to be an unusual high number of charging cycles showing up at my yearly service check in ;)
@@fishermans1friend My Battery is past the warranty and I don't have anyway to check what Bosch thinks. The place I purchased my EBike is several hours away so I haven't been down there to have them look at anything
Thanks for the information. So very helpful. Do you know if you can run solor power charging the battery while riding the bike at the same time? I have a bosh battery and it has a side mount charging socket. Uses the same 3 pin plug you created.
Currently I charge a second Bosch battery while riding. Bosch is a closed system. The battery/controller/motor all communicate. I haven't figured out how to hack it yet.
Great Video! - You have a firm skill in explaining tech details to others so they can understand. you inspired me to buy a converter and make one. Unfortunately, I could not find a copy of the 3d cover for the converter. I found the plugs on PRUSA OK from your link, but not the case or base for the charger, do you have a link you could include please?
I just want to check my (limited) understanding! Is the way the battery is charged controlled by a circuit within the battery pack? On a conventional lead/acid battery the charge cycle (current, voltage etc) is controlled from within the charger, but It seems from what you say that the proprietary Bosch mains charger is literally just a transformer providing 44v to the main ins and 5v to the other one? My concern is that there is more to charing a battery than just applying a voltage back to its terminals so i dont want to damage anything.
you will want to limit the charging current. The Bosch BMS (Battery Managerment System) in the battery will actually shut down the charging if you try to charge it too fast. You can purchase a GRIN charger if you want to be more specific with the charge profile: ruclips.net/video/YejPGydMOnw/видео.html
@@SerendipitySue ok thanks, one more thing I'm a little worried about. When i test voltages on mains charger output plug there's 5v on the small pin but nothing on the large one. This makes sense from a safety point of view as otherwise you'd have 44v 'exposed' which could easily short. But it also implies that the charger itself must have some internal electronics to detect when the 5v circuit is drawing power (ie connected) which then switches on the main charging power. So clearly not all the battery charging software resides in the BMS within the battery pack itself. Are you quite confident that the DC-DC charger will not damage the (very expensive!) battery pack? I do understand that if we limit current to 2A when battery is discharged then current will reduce as the charge level increases. It strikes me its a good idea to connect to the better before connecting to the vehicle supply.
@@gcc2007 The standard charger puts out 4A. Since my car cigarette lighter wattage is limited, I have to back off the battery charging current. I have not had any problems with my Bosch battery using this method.
Being cautions, There is a data signal on that line, look at the scope, clearly I can see a pulse and random freq. I looked further and a certified bosch teck posted that this is a data signal designed to keep other batteries from being used on the ebike. He also says the battery has a controller that understands the pulses and freq to keep other chargers from charging the bosch battery. I have studied what your doing here Chris as charging a spare battery. I have printed your 3D plug and performed or repeated your work and it's working so far, so I am at a loss to figure out the secret to the pulses and freq of those pulses.... I hope it all works or i have wasted a lot of money getting this far.
Very nice . Shame i am not technical. was there any thought to putting in a second car battery and driving the charger from that? ( 4wds often have a second battery fitted with wiring harness kits, isolators and switching gear. ) .
Do you have a solution for a Bosch bms replacement so I can use a Chinese bms to replace a dead Bosch bms Maybe it uses a handshake method to talk to the ebike or an other system
Thanks for the great video. I'm trying to understand the part where you mention that this will charge the battery to 80%. How is that controlled? Also, is it true that it's bad to charge the battery when it is cold? In the winter here it gets well below freezing so when I bring my battery indoors after a winter ride it's very cold. I'm thinking of building something that will monitor the temperature of the battery (from the outside) and switch on charging via a relay when the temperature gets back up to something reasonable. Ideally I could also stop charging before the battery gets to 100% but not sure how to do that.
Yes, it is bad to charge Lithium batteries when it is below freezing. Good battery systems have a BMS that will have a temperature sensor that will prevent it from trying. You set the percent charged by setting the charging voltage. A 36v battery is a 10S configuration. The max voltage per cell is usually 4.2V (check battery cell spec. sheet). So 42V would be fully charged. 2.5V is an empty cell voltage. 41V would be roughly 90% charged.
@@SerendipitySue Awesome, thank you. I did a bit more research and am starting to understand about the voltage limit corresponding to cell charge limit. Do you happen to know if Bosch batteries do any sort of smart things like cell rebalancing, and if so, if they only do it at 100%? I saw that mentioned as a caveat to not going to 100% for certain batteries.
@@SerendipitySue that makes sense. My plan then is to intercept the cable from the Bosch charger to the battery and have a DPST relay on 2 of the 3 connectors to close when the temperature sensor stabilizes at room temp and break when voltage across - and + reach an 80-90% level.
Great video. You are very talented! I need some advice. I was given a nearly new Bosch 500 Powerpack and Charger by a friend who had his brand new Bosch mountain bike stolen from his garage. I am planning to motorize my long wheelbase recumbent with a front wheel geared hub motor. I would like to use the the Bosch battery, if possible. However, after charging the battery, I am unable to detect any voltage at the + and - terminals of the battery even though all of the green lights come on, indicating that the battery is fully charged. I have checked every combination of pins on the output of the battery and cannot find the 36 volts or any other voltage. I am assuming that some sort of enable signal or hand shaking must take place to enable the output but have not been able to find any information on the web. Also, I have not been able to find the Bosch connector to plug onto the battery. I am assuming that you made your plug because they are unavailable. Thanks in advance for any information you can provide. Don,
I'm afraid you might be out of luck. The Bosch battery is proprietary . It talks to the bike controller/motor to provide power. I would love to figure out the protocol, but haven't yet. If I did, I could use it to power other things :-)
Thanks also. I'm in the same boat with a free battery and charger from a stolen bike situation. I saw another youtuber replace the bms for a hotrod bike, that was also interesting watch.
I believe Bosch has encrypted CAN bus commands that they use between the battery and the motor. I would love to figure out commands to discharge it.... but haven't yet. I did notice a new battery company on kickstarter that said they have
Hi Chris. Thanks a bundle for this, it's going to help enormously while we travel Australia. I'm afraid I am on a steep learning curve and my questions are probably pretty low level. I'm trying to make a solar charger of similar design, and I have requested a company to make the plugs for me. They have asked, "What material" and "surface finishing" ??? As I have no idea of 3D printing, I'm not sure how to answer this. They've also asked for a "Target price" O_O which again I have no idea of. On a more technical point, if I'm making the solar charger, should I splice power direct from the solar outlet - so I'd have one set of wires to each of the units. Is there another place to source it in the same system or am I better off to use a second source? I'm sorry to ask these questions. My knowledge is scant, and I have so far not been able to find anyone to assist me. Cheers in advance for any assistance or direction to info you may be able to provide. Thanks, Justin
Hey Chris, don't worry about the questions involving the 3D printing. I found a guy local who did it for me in about 1/2 an hour. However, if you have any ideas on the 5volt take off, I'd still be glad to hear them. Cheers, Justin.
I've done a couple of projects solar charging my ebike batteries (ruclips.net/video/CRZOvl0v_YE/видео.html ruclips.net/video/F27a7yQKD6s/видео.html ). I like the Genasun solar controllers. They are not cheap, but very well made.
@@SerendipitySue Hey Chris, Truly sorry, I just re-read my response to you and realized I didn't explain myself at all well. I've watched both your solar charger vids and altough they're fantastic, I am still no closer to an answer. What I was trying to ask (not clearly at all) is, I have a KTM bike with Bosch motor, I am trying to figure out the best/any place to take the 5volt from to make the battery work. If you have any ideas, I'd very much appreciate it. Again, sorry for my previous fairly garbled message, Justin.
Hi, my Bosch charger has just decided to stop working. I've tested the mains lead and that looks OK, So I guess it is the charger unit or plug. It looks like the Bosch charger 'talks' to the battery via that 3rd pin, so I guess I can't use an after market charging and swap the plug over ?
bonjour rien a faire je n'arrive pas à comprendre comment débloquer le BMS pour pouvoir utiliser une source électrique qui ne vient pas du chargeur bosch 🤔 merci
you have to connect the 5V source so the battery will go into charge mode. Here's an example of using the GRIN charger: ruclips.net/video/YejPGydMOnw/видео.html
@@SerendipitySue OK merci malheureusement la barrière de la langue m'empêche de comprendre il faudrait un schéma merci quand même pour la réponse je continue les recherches 😉
@@MACAVENTURES Vous pouvez obtenir des sous-titres français sur youtube. Activez le sous-titrage sur RUclips (bouton CC). Ensuite, allez dans les paramètres et sélectionnez les sous-titres anglais vers français. Ce sont des boutons en bas à droite de la fenêtre du lecteur youtube
@@SerendipitySue merci mais malgré la traduction sans schéma je ne comprends pas comment connecter le 5v sur 3 bornes alors que 2 sont occupés pour la tension de 42v (+,-) le 5v a besoin de 2 bornes également il en manque donc une 🤔
Its also a smart charger this charges always at the same voltage and current so u would propably blow it if u set it to 6a but dont quote me on that it certainly wouldnt be good for the battery
That was excellent. Very well done. I'm not sure If I misunderstood, but did you identify the purpose of the 5v line and is it required to initiate charging? You mention there's no data on this line. Is it for the thermistor inside the battery maybe? I'm made a universal charger with multiple plugs for a variety of 36v batteries I use for Xiaomi scooters, Fiido bike etc, so It would be great if I could cut the Bosch charger out of the equation all together and add your 3D printed plug to my universal charger too. Great work and thanks for the info. :)
Hi, Chris, thanks for the video. I rebuilt the loader. Unfortunately, I found no solution because the current Bosch PowerPack 500, 36V can not be charged with it. The bosch loader uses a charging characteristic between 36V - 42V. The charging begins with 36V, however, ends at about 38V .. only after which the output voltage is set to 38V the charge is continued. It's ends with reaching the 42V. I have to do this process 4 times. With start setting 42V, no load is executed. Does anyone know the solution?
I just ordered my first ebike! Can't wait to watch all your videos again and get more ideas :) With the ryobi batteries and the ebike, I'll have almost 1.5kwh in the camper! Is there a reason why no one seems to be connecting their ebike batteries to an inverter?
I'd like to use my ebike batteries as a back-up power for an inverter. I haven't figured out how to do this yet with the Bosch. I just got a Radcity ebike for Sue. That battery may be easier to hack. We'll be limited by the BMS rating. I'm guessing they are designed for the 750-1000W range of the ebike motors
@@SerendipitySue You understood what I meant from my ambiguous comment. Thanks for the reply and I'm looking forward to more videos. The bike I ordered is a Rattan LM-750 which uses a silverfish style battery. I'm going to do some research to see what others have done in regards to using their ebike battery to power an inverter instead of charging the battery from the inverter. It would be nice to do both! Thanks again :)
Keep in mind Bosch is one of the few to be able honor warranty’s on their batteries. They have a 2yr warranty so I wouldn’t fiddle with the battery till after that. Since replacement ones aren’t cheap for Bosch line
Can someone tell me how you handle the floating ground on the output of the boost converter with the 5v regulator attached to the 12 volt input? Do you tie the grounds together? Seems like this could be an issue.
Hi. I’m doing a solar ebike Bosch battery charger on a 100w 12v solar wagon behind my ebike (not charging while in use but charging battery packs while I bike). All is setup based on your design and a few others but I am running into one issue with the 12 v to 5v for the third wire. The positive lead (yellow wire out of the drok) is obvious based on your design but where do you connect the black negative wire to complete the 5v circuit. I would assume the negative connects up with the negative from the battery but it would be great if you could verify this. All the rest is setup fine and I am ready to do a test charge but I wanted to confirm this last detail before I soldered stuff together. Don’t worry I take full responsibility if my design breaks my batteries.
Yep. It doesn’t have to be connected to anything. I got my 100w panel charging the battery at 42v 110a even on a pretty low sun day. Now just to attach it to the solar wagon and we are golden. Thanks for your help.
Does anybody know if it would be possible to load a Bosch Powerpack accu while driving ? I think of implementing a second LiFepo4 based accu together with a boost converter. My bike (as probably most ones ? ) has a separate socket where I can plug in the charger without removing the battery .. would that work ?
I am looking at the same thing. Possibly not by using the charger connector but with the boost converter hooked in the cable to the motor. I am just curious to nkow if the Bosch battery has some enhanced security to detect if there is power going in the battery while riding the bike (or when stopped at a traffic light).
?? To reverse the power, do the +.- pin turn on and supply 36V if you supply 5 v to the third pin. The charger produces 5V on the third pin when you connect the other tester lead to either the + or the -. as if both are ground? Doesn't make sense. I want to be able to supplement my liFePo coach batteries in case of emergency with a buck converter 36 to 12V
bosch batteries have a proprietary protocol to use the battery. I haven't figured it out yet. So far I can only charge them. In the case of my RADPower ebike battery, I can use it for a powerstation ( ruclips.net/video/vP13pjChTB4/видео.html )
Absolutely amazing! Very well done! The instructions are great! Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment to build such a project. Would you be keen to sell one similar kit and ship it to New Zealand? :-)
Sorry, I'm not in a position to make/sell/support them. I put the 3d Model on the free print site. You can find firms on the internet that will print them for you.
If you look at your battery, the + and - terminals are labelled (at least on mine). The other wire puts the battery into charge mode. I probably should have labelled the connectors on the 3D model...
@@SerendipitySue thanks for the reply. I was thinking of using a 5v power supply to stimulate/switch on the charge for my powerwall. Still struggling though. Any chance of the STL file for 3d printing?
@@iracG5 yes I use the larger one. I made a two piece box with vents. I just taped the two pieces together and never got around to making a better one. I'll look for the model.
Hi Chris, thanks for the video. Great idea. I have built one using your instructions and 3d design on thingiverse. I've mounted it in an old bosch powerpack battery casing I had. Fits quite nicely. I've made it so we can charge in the caravan when we stop somewhere with no electricity, using thr solar panels and leisure batteries. I've set the battery low limit, amps and voltage out. I brought the same boost board u did. The one that worked better. Have you tried the temp at 4amps and 6amps. Thanks in advance.
If you want to run at higher Amp rates, you will have to directly connect the charger to your car battery. Most car sockets are limited to 12V 10A or less. If you don't want to fully charge the battery (e.g. 80%), then just lower the voltage out.
you made some flase assumption about your car 12v outlet there is no way your 300watt inverter will pull 10 amps or 120watts and yor can buy the bosch plug and one of those plugs is 5 volts to run accesories
Your tilting solar bike trailer brought me to your channel, and I can tell I am going to spend a lot of time here!
Just FYI, Bosch does make the exact same charger in a 2 amp version. I saw them on eBay when I was looking for a 2nd 4 amp one.
Great video! Really well explained and edited. The diagrams and specs and everything were very helpful. Thank you for sharing.
Congrats for all the works done,3d printing and much more,i've learn that this undocument pin needed 5v to enable charging.
Many thanks for your hard work! And thankyou for sharing it!
wow........great job.......your talent is admirable. Thanks for sharing.
amazing skills & details thanks ! always wanted to get a variable charger to charge 80% ... also wanted to monitor pack voltage , thanks for the 5v idea
FYI: It's much easier to just use a 10k resistor and a 5V zener diode to provide the 5V enable signal.
thanks
Can you offer any more info on how to go about this please? Just trying to get my head around it now - got my Bosch cable in bits just trying the best way to enable it with the 5v line. Like where does the negative 5v line go? Ta!
Nice, I finally a use a Pure Sine Wave Inverter, directly connected to my battery... I did some test with a booster, it burn... you right to take a bigger one with fan. you probably have a 5v on board to manage IC.
well done! thanks to you I can charge Bosch batteries, a regular charger for every bike! Thank you!
Your charger is great! Little cooler will totally reduce heating. 2 amps is too low current for charging 500 battery.
It would be better to make special line from your car battery to new cigarette socket with a thicker wires and 10 amps fuse.
To ensure not to overheat charger, you can add cheap electronic hot fuse. It will cut charger on desired temperature, and even sound a beep.
For instance if cooler occasionally blocked.
Great video with clear technical instruction. It has encouraged me to build my own charger. Thank you so much.
Thank you!! I'm printing the Bosch charger tip to adapt onto a cheap $15 charger from Amazon. You just saved me $85 :)
Awesome! Just wiring up my Bosch charger plug to my solar stuff now.
Can you tell me more about how you wired the 5v line?
I assume the positive 5v goes to the third Bosch wire but what about the negative 5v line?
Thanks!
bonjour je suis arrivé à comprendre et imprime la fiche de conection, néanmoins j'ai une question
lorsque l'on teste la sortie du chargeur d'origine il n'y aucune tentions
par contre à la sortie de notre fiche on a bien 42v et 5v, je n'ai pas encore osé brancher la batterie 🤔
Nice to see how you did it 🙂
It seems that the 5V control signal is only "enabling" the charge, so ~ 1 MillAmps on the 5 Volt should be plenty to enable charging.
Future project for me: Charge the Bosch e-bike battery from a solar panel (PV).
Thanks! -Willem
Here's how I did it: ruclips.net/video/F27a7yQKD6s/видео.htmlsi=u0dn6RVEXRPtuw9F
What about the negative 5v line? Where does that go>? Cheers!
Thank you so much for this information, thousand thumbs up
Men, really great info!!! .. Thanks a lot ...
Hi, made a Bosch solar charger with this, works great. thx for sharing!!
That's great! I did one too ( ruclips.net/video/F27a7yQKD6s/видео.html ).
I found a nice inexpensive MPPT solar controller that would work well too ( ruclips.net/video/xhLEnkzLj60/видео.html )
Thank alot for the great video.
I want to buy a battery tester but i did not know how to hook it up because of that third wire. otherwise the battery doss not give power.
1 question :)
is it a contstant 5v or is it a puls?
Hi Chris, fun project, hung up on current adjustment 8(, the current seems to pulsate from nothing to about 1.2 amp, seem in sync with battery LED. Had to swap the 5v adapter, it was was DOA, wonder if DROK 1500W Voltage Regulator is defective?]
thx-mik
Thanks for the video. Do you think that the 5v volts signal to enable the charge remains the same within the new bosch smart system connectics ?
Could i use one of these chargers on a ECO-WORTHY 12V 20Ah Lithium Battery, 3000+ Deep
Cycle if i built one of these to charge my e bike out on the road. Just trying to figure out how to use these two batteries I got to charge my e-bike on the trail.
Is there a product link to buy the bosch battery output plug? If i want to buy a new one it comes with the 230V adapter (i live in the EU), which is really expensive! Does someone know a cheaper alternative/has a weblink?
Chris, will you provide the 3d box to hold the inverter, I am using the same parts you use here and could use the box for protection....
I tried this for my ebike but the battery does not charge. The indicator LEDs blink once to indicate charging and then they hold steady. My battery is a Bosch PowerPack Frame 500Wh, do you know which battery you are using in the video? It looks slightly different. I also tested the ebike's included charger and it has no voltage accross the 40V PIN, only the 5V pin, so I wonder if this battery might be doing some communication?
mine is the rack mount battery. The 5V signal enables the battery to go into charge mode... then there will be voltage across the 40V pin
Very nice. My old 4A charger just died. Was the 5V signal just between - and the slim pin? I might be able to save myself a good 100€.
Hi Chris, I want to use a spare bosch battery to power a telescope and other accessories. All stuff are 12-14 V and max 4 A of total current. This connector is perfect! Thanks!
In your opinion I Need just a 36 to 12 V converter and use power from + and - pins or I need to connect the third pole to somewhere else (es. 5v)?
I have not figured out how to use the Bosch battery yet to run things. It has a properitary interface
@@SerendipitySue Thanks a lot! I think it's better way to use my old power bank.
Hi Chris, it's a great video!
There is something I might not fully understood, the third pin is it actually taking 5V out/in the battery? What I'm trying to do is to reverse the system to plug a different battery in the Bosch motor, so understanding if the third pin is taking some volt from the battery might be essential!
Thank you for any help in advance
The Bosch system is propretiary. The display, battery and motor controller all appear to talk to each other in an unknown/encrypted? protocol. You just can't use an ordinary battery :-(
Really nicely done. Do you know if you could charge while cycling. I could have my 2x 100A 12V batteries in my bike trailer 😉
yes works fine ( ruclips.net/video/F27a7yQKD6s/видео.html )
Awesome video!!! Thanks a lot for putting this out! This is especially appealing to me because I would like to save precious battery capacity by not wasting anything at converting firstly to 230V AC and then back to 36V/42V DC. So I hope I could save the loss of my converter. Assuming the 230V converter, the original Bosch charger and your self made charger all have an efficiency factor of 90%. I would take just with the self made charger 625Wh/12V/0,9 = 58Ah out of the battery instead of 625WH/12V/0,9/0,9 = 64 Ah with the converter in between. In reality it's probably even more because the Bosch chargers are supposed to get pretty warm, so they dissipate probably more than 10% into heat.
Though before I start I have a few doubts. Maybe you can help @SerendipitySue with clearing some up :)
1. Does the original charger have some kind of smart or adjusted charging characteristics or does it also only charge with constant voltage? So basically, could I harm the battery when using this self made charger?
2. My original charger has an output of 36V you set yours to 42V. Could this extra 6V harm the battery?
3. Could I also crank up the output current to 6A as the Bosch fast charger does it? I would of course make sure that I hook up the step up converter directly to the battery with thick enough cables and a fuse (something like 16qmm cables and a 40A fuse). Or once again could this 6A constant voltage charging do any harm to the battery?
4. Is there a possibility to use a switch to turn the step up converter on and off? Since I would like to mount it close to the battery in my camper I would like to be able to turn it off when not used.
5. I heard somebody else using a 1200W version for the step up converter. I guess this should work as well. It's a bit cheaper than the 1500W, which you used in the end, and it doesn't need a fan.
6. How much would voltage changes in my battery affect the output voltage of the step up converter? Is it linear? So let's say if I'm driving or getting lots of sun power my batteries get charged with up to 14,5V, maybe even peaks of 15V. If the battery doesn't get charged its nominal voltage is 12,8V. During use it could drop down to something like 11V. So, if I calibrate the step up converter at 14,5V to give an output of 42V it steps the voltage up by a factor of 2,9. The same factor would mean for 12,8V an output of 37,1V, with 11V -> 31,9V and with 15V -> 43,4V. Could this be an issue during use? What could be an appropriate range, so which max voltage shouldn't I surpass and which min voltage shouldn't I undercut and how could I make sure not to?
6. What might be the reasons why doesn't Bosch offer a 12V charger anymore? I heard they used to have one. Maybe because of these mentioned, difficult to control voltage ranges from 11V-15V during a typical 12V car use?
I'm getting excited here! I'm even thinking about getting me a voltmeter with USB tracking software and using my old windows laptop for the win/ubuntu only software, so I can monitor the whole loading cycle of my original Bosch charger to see, if there is any magic in terms of different loading voltage at different stages or not :D
Ok, I found out a few things by myself :)
Mainly from this German guy who does something similar:
ruclips.net/video/LD110uMoMbs/видео.html
Regarding #1. and #2. I think as far as I understood there are no "smart adjustments" from the charger for the charging voltages. Constant 42V seems to be ok since this is the last voltage it needs to get fully loaded. Though the BMS cycle counting might be affected by this setup. This guy said, that he heard of others where the BMS increased the total charging cycles by up to 100 or so during one of those charges. Because somehow with this 5V signal the BMS gets the impressions that several charges are taking place in a row. I didn't fully understand it yet, though it seems to have happend. So if you are conscerned about warranty or questions in any way at your service interval, this might be a risk.
#3 I think 6A would be possible too, though I didn't get any confirmation anywhere yet. This guy on that channel was limited by the input current of 15A of his step up converter ( it was a small one, maybe also 150W or so). He set the input current to 13A and reached 3A output with this.
#4 Not sure about a switch yet, though somehow of course possible. If no other option one can swith of course the input 12V on /off with a high current switch.
#5 1200W-1500W seems like a good size to me. With or without fan I'm not sure. This guy recommended a fan, though he had also a smaller converter which produced more heat, which we of course actually don't want since it's energy loss.
#6 I totally misunderstood the step up converter so far. Apparently the once set output voltage is fixed and the converter reaches it with it's range of input voltages.
One additional tip was to use diodes for the two charging cables because at the beginning the BMS sends a current itself which could harm the Step up converter. Not sure if this is really necessary, though it was his tipp.
Wow! So many questions. Thanks for the reference to the German video. I wish I could read/understand German. Also take a look at my other video ( ruclips.net/video/YejPGydMOnw/видео.html ) where I use the Grin Cycle Satiator to charge. You can't put much more than 5.5A into the Bosch Powerpack 500 before the BMS shuts down charging. The heavy duty DC-DC converter can output this, but you will want to directly connect it to your car battery. The cigarette lighter socket and fuse can't handle that much power
A "36V" LiOn battery has a range of 30-42V. 42V is fully charged.
@@SerendipitySue Thanks for the answer!
1. You can watch the german video with autogenerated English subtitles :)
2. Ok, in the other video you mentioned, that you went up to 6,5A for a Bosch battery. This fast charging option seems very interesting.
3. Of course I would mount the converter directly to my 200Ah Lithium Battery in my camper and also with thick enough cables and a fuse
4. So what do you mean with this range of 30-42V. Does it harm the battery when I charge it constantly with 42V? Or can I somehow adjust the voltage for different charging cycles?
5.The thing which is holding me back the most are those reports that with this constant 5V signal the BMS thinks there are several full charging cycles taking place and that the count for charging cycles might go extremely high which doesn't look good at my yearly service since I have an insurance on the whole bike and also the battery ;)
Are there any updates to the BMS counting way too many charging cycles with this method? Because this is the one thing which is still holding me back from building one for my battery, since I have an insurance for my battery, I don’t want there to be an unusual high number of charging cycles showing up at my yearly service check in ;)
@@fishermans1friend My Battery is past the warranty and I don't have anyway to check what Bosch thinks. The place I purchased my EBike is several hours away so I haven't been down there to have them look at anything
Thanks for the information. So very helpful. Do you know if you can run solor power charging the battery while riding the bike at the same time? I have a bosh battery and it has a side mount charging socket. Uses the same 3 pin plug you created.
Currently I charge a second Bosch battery while riding. Bosch is a closed system. The battery/controller/motor all communicate. I haven't figured out how to hack it yet.
Great Video! - You have a firm skill in explaining tech details to others so they can understand. you inspired me to buy a converter and make one. Unfortunately, I could not find a copy of the 3d cover for the converter. I found the plugs on PRUSA OK from your link, but not the case or base for the charger, do you have a link you could include please?
I can't seem to find a copy of it. My Windows computer crapped out and it must have not made it to my USB backup drive 😞
I just want to check my (limited) understanding! Is the way the battery is charged controlled by a circuit within the battery pack? On a conventional lead/acid battery the charge cycle (current, voltage etc) is controlled from within the charger, but It seems from what you say that the proprietary Bosch mains charger is literally just a transformer providing 44v to the main ins and 5v to the other one? My concern is that there is more to charing a battery than just applying a voltage back to its terminals so i dont want to damage anything.
you will want to limit the charging current. The Bosch BMS (Battery Managerment System) in the battery will actually shut down the charging if you try to charge it too fast. You can purchase a GRIN charger if you want to be more specific with the charge profile: ruclips.net/video/YejPGydMOnw/видео.html
@@SerendipitySue ok thanks, one more thing I'm a little worried about. When i test voltages on mains charger output plug there's 5v on the small pin but nothing on the large one. This makes sense from a safety point of view as otherwise you'd have 44v 'exposed' which could easily short. But it also implies that the charger itself must have some internal electronics to detect when the 5v circuit is drawing power (ie connected) which then switches on the main charging power. So clearly not all the battery charging software resides in the BMS within the battery pack itself. Are you quite confident that the DC-DC charger will not damage the (very expensive!) battery pack? I do understand that if we limit current to 2A when battery is discharged then current will reduce as the charge level increases. It strikes me its a good idea to connect to the better before connecting to the vehicle supply.
@@gcc2007 The standard charger puts out 4A. Since my car cigarette lighter wattage is limited, I have to back off the battery charging current. I have not had any problems with my Bosch battery using this method.
Would this work with a 12V solar panel? Could you make a circuit that only puts 5V on the enabler pin if the sunshine is above a certain level?
Being cautions, There is a data signal on that line, look at the scope, clearly I can see a pulse and random freq. I looked further and a certified bosch teck posted that this is a data signal designed to keep other batteries from being used on the ebike. He also says the battery has a controller that understands the pulses and freq to keep other chargers from charging the bosch battery. I have studied what your doing here Chris as charging a spare battery. I have printed your 3D plug and performed or repeated your work and it's working so far, so I am at a loss to figure out the secret to the pulses and freq of those pulses.... I hope it all works or i have wasted a lot of money getting this far.
While it needs the 5v+ to start the charge, where does the 5v- go to? Just leave that unconnected to anything?
I just leave it unconnected.
Very nice . Shame i am not technical. was there any thought to putting in a second car battery and driving the charger from that? ( 4wds often have a second battery fitted with wiring harness kits, isolators and switching gear. ) .
It’ll still be 12v and the same plug. So nope
Great info. I don't have access to a 3d printer, but would love to purchase this plug from someone. Are there any options?
There are some services on the Internet that will print parts for you
Do you have a solution for a Bosch bms replacement so I can use a Chinese bms to replace a dead Bosch bms
Maybe it uses a handshake method to talk to the ebike or an other system
not yet
Thanks for the great video. I'm trying to understand the part where you mention that this will charge the battery to 80%. How is that controlled?
Also, is it true that it's bad to charge the battery when it is cold? In the winter here it gets well below freezing so when I bring my battery indoors after a winter ride it's very cold. I'm thinking of building something that will monitor the temperature of the battery (from the outside) and switch on charging via a relay when the temperature gets back up to something reasonable. Ideally I could also stop charging before the battery gets to 100% but not sure how to do that.
Yes, it is bad to charge Lithium batteries when it is below freezing. Good battery systems have a BMS that will have a temperature sensor that will prevent it from trying. You set the percent charged by setting the charging voltage. A 36v battery is a 10S configuration. The max voltage per cell is usually 4.2V (check battery cell spec. sheet). So 42V would be fully charged. 2.5V is an empty cell voltage. 41V would be roughly 90% charged.
@@SerendipitySue Awesome, thank you. I did a bit more research and am starting to understand about the voltage limit corresponding to cell charge limit. Do you happen to know if Bosch batteries do any sort of smart things like cell rebalancing, and if so, if they only do it at 100%? I saw that mentioned as a caveat to not going to 100% for certain batteries.
@@robothebobo I'm sure the bosch bms balances the cells. I'm not sure at what voltage. It just means that every once in a while you charge them 100%
@@SerendipitySue that makes sense. My plan then is to intercept the cable from the Bosch charger to the battery and have a DPST relay on 2 of the 3 connectors to close when the temperature sensor stabilizes at room temp and break when voltage across - and + reach an 80-90% level.
Great video.
You are very talented! I need some advice. I was given a nearly new Bosch 500 Powerpack and Charger by a friend who had his brand new Bosch mountain bike stolen from his garage.
I am planning to motorize my long wheelbase recumbent with a front wheel geared hub motor. I would like to use the the Bosch battery, if possible. However, after charging the battery, I am unable to detect any voltage at the + and - terminals of the battery even though all of the green lights come on, indicating that the battery is fully charged. I have checked every combination of pins on the output of the battery and cannot find the 36 volts or any other voltage. I am assuming that some sort of enable signal or hand shaking must take place to enable the output but have not been able to find any information on the web.
Also, I have not been able to find the Bosch connector to plug onto the battery. I am assuming that you made your plug because they are unavailable.
Thanks in advance for any information you can provide.
Don,
I'm afraid you might be out of luck. The Bosch battery is proprietary . It talks to the bike controller/motor to provide power. I would love to figure out the protocol, but haven't yet. If I did, I could use it to power other things :-)
Thanks also. I'm in the same boat with a free battery and charger from a stolen bike situation. I saw another youtuber replace the bms for a hotrod bike, that was also interesting watch.
How can i activate the battery to discharge it and charge it over the same terminals?
I believe Bosch has encrypted CAN bus commands that they use between the battery and the motor. I would love to figure out commands to discharge it.... but haven't yet. I did notice a new battery company on kickstarter that said they have
Hi Chris. Thanks a bundle for this, it's going to help enormously while we travel Australia. I'm afraid I am on a steep learning curve and my questions are probably pretty low level. I'm trying to make a solar charger of similar design, and I have requested a company to make the plugs for me. They have asked, "What material" and "surface finishing" ??? As I have no idea of 3D printing, I'm not sure how to answer this. They've also asked for a "Target price" O_O which again I have no idea of. On a more technical point, if I'm making the solar charger, should I splice power direct from the solar outlet - so I'd have one set of wires to each of the units. Is there another place to source it in the same system or am I better off to use a second source? I'm sorry to ask these questions. My knowledge is scant, and I have so far not been able to find anyone to assist me. Cheers in advance for any assistance or direction to info you may be able to provide. Thanks, Justin
Hey Chris, don't worry about the questions involving the 3D printing. I found a guy local who did it for me in about 1/2 an hour. However, if you have any ideas on the 5volt take off, I'd still be glad to hear them. Cheers, Justin.
I've done a couple of projects solar charging my ebike batteries (ruclips.net/video/CRZOvl0v_YE/видео.html ruclips.net/video/F27a7yQKD6s/видео.html ). I like the Genasun solar controllers. They are not cheap, but very well made.
@@SerendipitySue Hey Chris, Truly sorry, I just re-read my response to you and realized I didn't explain myself at all well. I've watched both your solar charger vids and altough they're fantastic, I am still no closer to an answer. What I was trying to ask (not clearly at all) is, I have a KTM bike with Bosch motor, I am trying to figure out the best/any place to take the 5volt from to make the battery work. If you have any ideas, I'd very much appreciate it. Again, sorry for my previous fairly garbled message, Justin.
good afternoon, please tell me, why 3 cable red? one minus (-), another plus (+), and the third what?
It's the +5V that enables the Bosch Charging Circuit
@@SerendipitySue дякую за відповідь 👍🇺🇦
Hi, my Bosch charger has just decided to stop working. I've tested the mains lead and that looks OK, So I guess it is the charger unit or plug. It looks like the Bosch charger 'talks' to the battery via that 3rd pin, so I guess I can't use an after market charging and swap the plug over ?
you just need to provide 5V on the 3rd pin. I've used the Grin power supply ( ruclips.net/video/YejPGydMOnw/видео.html )
bonjour rien a faire je n'arrive pas à comprendre comment débloquer le BMS pour pouvoir utiliser une source électrique qui ne vient pas du chargeur bosch 🤔
merci
you have to connect the 5V source so the battery will go into charge mode. Here's an example of using the GRIN charger: ruclips.net/video/YejPGydMOnw/видео.html
@@SerendipitySue OK merci malheureusement la barrière de la langue m'empêche de comprendre il faudrait un schéma
merci quand même pour la réponse
je continue les recherches 😉
@@MACAVENTURES Vous pouvez obtenir des sous-titres français sur youtube. Activez le sous-titrage sur RUclips (bouton CC). Ensuite, allez dans les paramètres et sélectionnez les sous-titres anglais vers français. Ce sont des boutons en bas à droite de la fenêtre du lecteur youtube
@@SerendipitySue merci mais malgré la traduction sans schéma je ne comprends pas comment connecter le 5v sur 3 bornes alors que 2 sont occupés pour la tension de 42v (+,-) le 5v a besoin de 2 bornes également il en manque donc une 🤔
FYI the Bosch Fast Charger pushes 6A into the PowerPack500.
Its also a smart charger this charges always at the same voltage and current so u would propably blow it if u set it to 6a but dont quote me on that it certainly wouldnt be good for the battery
That was excellent. Very well done.
I'm not sure If I misunderstood, but did you identify the purpose of the 5v line and is it required to initiate charging? You mention there's no data on this line. Is it for the thermistor inside the battery maybe?
I'm made a universal charger with multiple plugs for a variety of 36v batteries I use for Xiaomi scooters, Fiido bike etc, so It would be great if I could cut the Bosch charger out of the equation all together and add your 3D printed plug to my universal charger too.
Great work and thanks for the info. :)
I used it with the Grin Power charger ( ruclips.net/video/YejPGydMOnw/видео.html ).. The 5V is required to put it into charge mode.
@@SerendipitySue Thanks again for the info. I just wrapped up on making my universal charger and it works great. :)
Hi, Chris, thanks for the video. I rebuilt the loader. Unfortunately, I found no solution because the current Bosch PowerPack 500, 36V can not be charged with it. The bosch loader uses a charging characteristic between 36V - 42V. The charging begins with 36V, however, ends at about 38V .. only after which the output voltage is set to 38V the charge is continued. It's ends with reaching the 42V. I have to do this process 4 times. With start setting 42V, no load is executed. Does anyone know the solution?
I just ordered my first ebike! Can't wait to watch all your videos again and get more ideas :) With the ryobi batteries and the ebike, I'll have almost 1.5kwh in the camper! Is there a reason why no one seems to be connecting their ebike batteries to an inverter?
I'd like to use my ebike batteries as a back-up power for an inverter. I haven't figured out how to do this yet with the Bosch. I just got a Radcity ebike for Sue. That battery may be easier to hack. We'll be limited by the BMS rating. I'm guessing they are designed for the 750-1000W range of the ebike motors
@@SerendipitySue You understood what I meant from my ambiguous comment. Thanks for the reply and I'm looking forward to more videos. The bike I ordered is a Rattan LM-750 which uses a silverfish style battery. I'm going to do some research to see what others have done in regards to using their ebike battery to power an inverter instead of charging the battery from the inverter. It would be nice to do both! Thanks again :)
Keep in mind Bosch is one of the few to be able honor warranty’s on their batteries. They have a 2yr warranty so I wouldn’t fiddle with the battery till after that. Since replacement ones aren’t cheap for Bosch line
Can I get you to make me one in having trouble getting regular Bosh charger let me know thanks
Can someone tell me how you handle the floating ground on the output of the boost converter with the 5v regulator attached to the 12 volt input? Do you tie the grounds together? Seems like this could be an issue.
if you tie the grounds together it doesn't work for some reason. Works just fine with using the 5V + "floating"
Does the voltage converter gets super hot while charging the battery (after a few hours) ?
yes, see the thermal images in the video
Hi. I’m doing a solar ebike Bosch battery charger on a 100w 12v solar wagon behind my ebike (not charging while in use but charging battery packs while I bike). All is setup based on your design and a few others but I am running into one issue with the 12 v to 5v for the third wire. The positive lead (yellow wire out of the drok) is obvious based on your design but where do you connect the black negative wire to complete the 5v circuit. I would assume the negative connects up with the negative from the battery but it would be great if you could verify this. All the rest is setup fine and I am ready to do a test charge but I wanted to confirm this last detail before I soldered stuff together. Don’t worry I take full responsibility if my design breaks my batteries.
It's a shared ground. I believe I left it disconnected. Will have to check
Yep. It doesn’t have to be connected to anything. I got my 100w panel charging the battery at 42v 110a even on a pretty low sun day. Now just to attach it to the solar wagon and we are golden. Thanks for your help.
baglati girislerini nasil yaptiginiz anlasilmiyor kisaca gosteremezmisiniz?
thanks
Does anybody know if it would be possible to load a Bosch Powerpack accu while driving ? I think of implementing a second LiFepo4 based accu together with a boost converter. My bike (as probably most ones ? ) has a separate socket where I can plug in the charger without removing the battery .. would that work ?
I am looking at the same thing. Possibly not by using the charger connector but with the boost converter hooked in the cable to the motor. I am just curious to nkow if the Bosch battery has some enhanced security to detect if there is power going in the battery while riding the bike (or when stopped at a traffic light).
@@Rob_65 Can't remember where I got the info .. but trying to load and unload the pack will destroy the electronics ..
@@waltsteinchen Ouch! Thanks for the info.
Guess I have to test this with an old battery first before building this into my cargo bike.
Hi could you confirm the reliability of your DIY bosch charger after a year of use ? Iam planning to make one according to your design. Thanks
The second one with the larger power supply has been working fine
your channel should be about 3d printing
great ! anyone knows how much current it pulls on 5 volt or just enable signal ?
??
To reverse the power, do the +.- pin turn on and supply 36V if you supply 5 v to the third pin.
The charger produces 5V on the third pin when you connect the other tester lead to either the + or the -. as if both are ground?
Doesn't make sense.
I want to be able to supplement my liFePo coach batteries in case of emergency with a buck converter 36 to 12V
bosch batteries have a proprietary protocol to use the battery. I haven't figured it out yet. So far I can only charge them. In the case of my RADPower ebike battery, I can use it for a powerstation ( ruclips.net/video/vP13pjChTB4/видео.html )
Absolutely amazing! Very well done! The instructions are great! Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment to build such a project. Would you be keen to sell one similar kit and ship it to New Zealand? :-)
Sorry, I'm not in a position to make/sell/support them. I put the 3d Model on the free print site. You can find firms on the internet that will print them for you.
@@SerendipitySue awesome. Much appreciated 👍
Hi I can't quite make out the exact pin positions. Any chance of a closeup or diagram please?
If you look at your battery, the + and - terminals are labelled (at least on mine). The other wire puts the battery into charge mode. I probably should have labelled the connectors on the 3D model...
@@SerendipitySue thanks for the reply. I was thinking of using a 5v power supply to stimulate/switch on the charge for my powerwall. Still struggling though. Any chance of the STL file for 3d printing?
@@shockingshed6580 The 3D models are listed in the video description
Hello, would you mind sending me the 3d file of the plug? I am working on the same project and have a 3 d printer. Awesome documentation. Thank you
the links to 3D print files are in the description
@@SerendipitySue awesome. Printed it and works well. Appreciated
hi, nice design. do you have the files to the converter case?
I only have a rough prototype for the larger DC boost converter. I'd have to dig around. Didn't want to post an unfinished one.
@@SerendipitySue ok but you use the larger dc converter still? I ordered the same on amazon, but can't find any case on thingiverse.
@@iracG5 yes I use the larger one. I made a two piece box with vents. I just taped the two pieces together and never got around to making a better one. I'll look for the model.
Thanks for sharing, do you have the STL uploaded somewhere for the case?
Hi Chris, thanks for the video. Great idea. I have built one using your instructions and 3d design on thingiverse. I've mounted it in an old bosch powerpack battery casing I had. Fits quite nicely.
I've made it so we can charge in the caravan when we stop somewhere with no electricity, using thr solar panels and leisure batteries.
I've set the battery low limit, amps and voltage out. I brought the same boost board u did. The one that worked better.
Have you tried the temp at 4amps and 6amps.
Thanks in advance.
If you want to run at higher Amp rates, you will have to directly connect the charger to your car battery. Most car sockets are limited to 12V 10A or less. If you don't want to fully charge the battery (e.g. 80%), then just lower the voltage out.
you made some flase assumption about your car 12v outlet there is no way your 300watt inverter will pull 10 amps or 120watts and yor can buy the bosch plug and one of those plugs is 5 volts to run accesories
I just need you to sell me one :)
Sorry, not really in a position to make/sell/support them. I put the models out for free so others can print them