You did a fine job. It was great you showed how you may of needed to let the light in earlier but obviously it didn't cause a problem in the long run. These are the bits we don't see on the "professional" grafting vids. Brilliant and thanks.
I want to make it *very* clear to everyone that watches my videos that I'm not an expert. I want you all to know that if I can do it, you can do it, because I'm just some guy messing around in my backyard. I think the professional videos scare people away for trying, because they make you think you have to be a pro, too. I like to highlight the missteps.
You did great! You can put a nick just above each of your lower grafts to get a water and mineral traffic jam that reroutes to those new branches to get them more vigorous. Just make about 1/8 inch cuts on the central leader slightly above and just equal to or slightly wider than your new branches and scrape out the cambium. More than enough water and nutrients will still be available to go around the nicks and reach the upper apical branches. Love your videos! I've learned quite a lot from you. Thanks!
If you found this video helpful, please “Like” and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for watchingTIMESTAMPS for convenience: 0:00 Why You Shouldn't Fear Grafting Fruit Trees 1:22 The Best Time To Graft Fruit Trees 2:13 Creating A Multi-Tiered Espalier Fruit Tree 4:38 Tools Required For Grafting Trees 6:00 How To Cleft Graft A Tree With A Grafting Tool 9:11 How To Bud Graft A Tree With A Grafting Knife 15:37 Uncovering The Grafts 16:33 Graft Progress After Almost 2 Months 19:24 Managing Buds After Fruit Tree Grafting 23:01 Adventures With Dale
😊that’s amazing. My Mom did that many years ago with a Pear tree. Three were 3 different type pears 🍐 for years. Then. Eventually they were two and then one of them took over I forgot the name it was the green pair but every year there was loads and loads of pears what a difference in taste from the store I’m picking it on the tree in your own yard amazing thanks for all your good info
That’s the trouble with grafts. You really have to monitor them and make sure one doesn’t get crowded out. Symmetry is important. The top graft is solid, but the bottom bud graft will require management. Hopefully, it holds on. Thanks for watching!
@@TheMillennialGardener espalier on a multi grafted tree is the way to go. I would never grow one normally because one variety typically always dominates eventually. With the espalier you control each branch vigor, it requires a lot attention and training but it’s a labor of love. Also no worries on the grafts mine are pretty ugly nothing to write home about but if it works thats all that matters. Good luck with your pear I’ll be looking for updates.
Pruning could hopefully help prevent one taking over. I wonder how each one would differ in development, ripeness and time of harvest eitherway it is something to try for sure!
That's interesting. I wonder if that reduces sap flow to the top of the tree, thereby concentrating the sap flow to those lower buds? Interesting concept.
Im no expert, but i giggles at your bud grafting because of the degree of danger you added trying to show up. It is a tricky technique. You did just fine. Good show. I think i speak for alot of viewers when i say thank you for showing the process from beginning to end with result. Nice work.
Perfect timing. I got two sets each of pear, plum, peach and apple scionwood just in case I get it wrong. I have to practice first with the grafting knife with pruned peach cuttings. Fingers crossed, I hope at least one works on each tree. Amazing video as usual, thanks.
I agree with what you said about the apical dominance and for that reason I would trim off the top branches and let the apical dominance travel down lower through the plant and push out those lower buds
I think I'm going to try what another commenter said and cut above the lower buds to try and concentrate sap flow to them. Sounds like an interesting concept. If that doesn't work, I may have to decapitate the other branches early.
This is very inspiring! It's great that you are always coming up with new projects. For me, the idea for us followers is to keep learning new things. After OD-ing on gardening RUclipss during covid new is good and I pass on repetitive. So I appreciate your new endeavors. Others seem to think that after showing us last year's garden tour that it's interesting to see the same thing this year. How are your manually pollinated figs doing? Do you expect them to fruit this yesr? Thanks.
Believe me, I wish I had *less* projects to do 😅 There are so many things I need to do, still. I have a laundry list of new projects to start. My next projects will be modular greenhouses, screening in the entire garden and extending my landscape borders, but it's getting so hot here that I just can't do these projects in these conditions. I understand why growers film the tours. They're really easy to film. These projects are really hard to set up and film. You have to rely on manual focusing, and they make the projects take literally 5 times longer. Something that takes 1-2 hours winds up taking an entire afternoon when you film it, and then the editing is even more difficult. This is not going to be a good year for my figs, and I'll tell you why. Not only did we have a terrible winter that killed about a dozen of them down to the ground, but because I overwintered all those fig seedlings, I wound up creating a disease issue in my garden. Normally, figs drop all their leaves, so all the rust from the fall dies with it. Because I overwintered my seedlings, I wound up carrying that rust over into this season, and it spread to all my trees. Usually, it takes until August/September for rust to start, but now I gave all my trees rust in MAY! Now, everything is in bad shape. The seedlings are still growing and doing well, but I wound up accidentally sabotaging my season by overwintering rust. It didn't even cross my mind at the time that that would happen.
@@TheMillennialGardener That rust must be lousy for you. My 1 large in ground fig did SO well last year. A bumper crop. I ordered 8 cuttings and 5 took. Also took cuttings from my own tree, which did well. Alas the big fig is inundated with Spotted Lantern Fly nymphs. They're ducking the life out of it. They like the younger guys less but also have a taste for citrus. I was in defense mode, now in offence. Good luck this summer.
So at the top its going to be like an Open Center cut? Or is it a different cut. If it is it will definitely grow out left and right versus straight up.
I'm interested in what fruits are compatible for grafting. For example, can cherry graft to apple? I imagine that the main considerations are with the nutrient requirements matching the root stock.
They generally have to be within the same species. There are some exceptions. You can, for example, graft lemons, limes and oranges to the same rootstock *if* that rootstock is compatible with all 3 species. You can also, in some cases, graft a nectarine, plum and peach to the same tree since they're all stone fruits that can be compatible in some cases with some rootstocks. If you want to create a multi-grafted fruit tree with different species, you need to carefully research which types and rootstocks are compatible. They're not all plug-and-play. You're never going to be able to graft an apple and a cherry since they are in entirely different families. You can craft 2 different apples on the same apple tree, but you can't mix and match fruits unless they're very closely related.
Thanks for the basic overview. I have a question about that Hardy Chicago fig I just bought. It says it's grown from cultivated stock, what does that mean? It's a really thin stick with a couple leaves and a small root ball. It cost $10 he said it was $1 more than what he paid for it. It's from Netherland Bulb Company. Thanks
You need to stretch that tape to 1) create a tight wrap to stabilize the graft and create good contact of the cambium, and 2) to make it easier for the buds, as they grow, to break through.
@@TheMillennialGardener The tape should stretch considerably...maybe try a better and thinner brand. Never seen a brand that was that stiff. Grafted three apple trees last year with 3 different types, also espalier.
Absolutely! You can graft multiple peach varieties to a single peach tree. In fact, if you get the proper rootstock, you can even find instances where you can graft a peach, plum and nectarine onto a single tree. Here is an example from Willis Orchards: www.willisorchards.com/product/4-in-1-fruit-salad-tree#:~:text=Elberta%20Peach%2C%20Fantasia%20Nectarine%2C%20Santa%20Rosa%20Plum%2C%20Blenheim,to%20give%20you%20the%20strongest%204-in-1%20tree%20possible. Now, I don't know exactly what rootstock is required to graft all those different species onto a single tree, but it is doable with proper research. You can also have Asian and European pears on a single tree.
Thank you for your grafting vid. I kinda know which graft to use on my Avocado plant, now to find a piece of grafting materials. Got any Ideas? The Green Lizard (podcast) is out of grafts and will not have any until fall. I guess I had better check when to graft and avocado. Spring????? I will have to bring it in my house for winter. (Probably spring.....hope I am still alive, 75th tomorrow’s...lol)
It's going to be really hard to find wood in the summer. The reason why is because all the growth at this time of year is new growth, and it hasn't hardened off and lignified yet. Usually, wood becomes available in late fall/winter. You can maybe try Fruitwood Nursery and Burnt Ridge: fruitwoodnursery.com/fruit-tree-scion-and-cuttings-wood/avocado-scionwood www.burntridgenursery.com/Scionwood/products/94/ As you can see, almost everything is out of stock now, but it will eventually be re-populated, so check back every now and then. In the meantime, now is a good time to get your rootstock growing if you want to graft in a container.
I’ve always been wary of these types of trees. I’ve heard they won’t make as much of any one fruit and it may not be as good compared to a tree dedicated to one. Also grafting where I’m at in zone 6 I’ve heard could lead to loss of the tree if the grafted section dies in a frost or something? Idk I’m just not sure if it’s worth not getting a few of the full trees if you have the space anyway.
Pups acclimate to water best at an early age. They know it is a natural feeling after developing in the mothers amniotic sack for weeks. There is no fear of water, just comfort. Dale will learn and remember from his early days, it will just take some time for him to settle. Try to stay way from waves and noise in the beginning of his journey. Find a pond or lake first as this is more the environment he remembers. Surf and waves will be better later and he will be more confident because his size and strength will not allow the movement to threaten him. Remember, he thinks he is still a helpless puppy around water until he processes the fact that it cannot hurt him. 👅🐾🐾
I wish I'd seen this video 2 years ago when I planted my plum and peach trees.the roots of the plum tree is sending off more trees that got away from me. I really really gotta prune it way back..whens the best time for that?
When it comes to pruning off suckers coming from the roots, they should be done all year as they appear. When it comes to physically shaping the tree, that's something you do during the dormant season. The only pruning that should be done during the summer is just to prune out any growth growing "into" the tree, thinning the fruit and letting in more light to help the fruit ripen if necessary. You shouldn't be shaping the tree while it's actively growing, because that can remove the fruiting wood and fruits.
I stopped using the graft tool, i had very low success rate. I now do it manually. The parafilm may not create enough pressure to keep cambium contact nice and tight. it might dry out. I use rubber bands. Good luck
I've had really good luck with the grafting tool. Every time I've used it, it has been successful. I like doing a double layer of parafilm, and then you can wrap it again on the base at the graft point with a rubber band or grafting tape. The pressure is pretty critical.
It has to be the same species, in most cases, or a very close relative. You’ll want to graft a peach onto another peach. There are some exceptions. You can graft European pears and Asian pears on the same tree, at least with certain rootstocks. Same with citrus: you can graft oranges and lemons to some rootstocks and have a multi-fruited citrus…they have to be very closely related.
I could have grafted both new varieties on the two branches up top. That, honestly, could have helped them take more quickly, but I wanted to try both methods. Hopefully, it works out in the long run.
The challenge is actually trying to make the cuts while ensuring everything is within the frame. The problem with filming this type of work is you have to use manual focus and can't use autofocus, so you have to make sure you're holding everything in such a way that you aren't significantly altering the location of the tree or it'll go out of focus.
You did a fine job. It was great you showed how you may of needed to let the light in earlier but obviously it didn't cause a problem in the long run. These are the bits we don't see on the "professional" grafting vids. Brilliant and thanks.
I want to make it *very* clear to everyone that watches my videos that I'm not an expert. I want you all to know that if I can do it, you can do it, because I'm just some guy messing around in my backyard. I think the professional videos scare people away for trying, because they make you think you have to be a pro, too. I like to highlight the missteps.
You did great! You can put a nick just above each of your lower grafts to get a water and mineral traffic jam that reroutes to those new branches to get them more vigorous. Just make about 1/8 inch cuts on the central leader slightly above and just equal to or slightly wider than your new branches and scrape out the cambium. More than enough water and nutrients will still be available to go around the nicks and reach the upper apical branches.
Love your videos! I've learned quite a lot from you. Thanks!
I would love to see an update on this tree this coming spring!
If you found this video helpful, please “Like” and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for watchingTIMESTAMPS for convenience:
0:00 Why You Shouldn't Fear Grafting Fruit Trees
1:22 The Best Time To Graft Fruit Trees
2:13 Creating A Multi-Tiered Espalier Fruit Tree
4:38 Tools Required For Grafting Trees
6:00 How To Cleft Graft A Tree With A Grafting Tool
9:11 How To Bud Graft A Tree With A Grafting Knife
15:37 Uncovering The Grafts
16:33 Graft Progress After Almost 2 Months
19:24 Managing Buds After Fruit Tree Grafting
23:01 Adventures With Dale
😊that’s amazing. My Mom did that many years ago with a Pear tree. Three were 3 different type pears 🍐 for years. Then. Eventually they were two and then one of them took over I forgot the name it was the green pair but every year there was loads and loads of pears what a difference in taste from the store I’m picking it on the tree in your own yard amazing thanks for all your good info
That’s the trouble with grafts. You really have to monitor them and make sure one doesn’t get crowded out. Symmetry is important. The top graft is solid, but the bottom bud graft will require management. Hopefully, it holds on. Thanks for watching!
@@TheMillennialGardener espalier on a multi grafted tree is the way to go. I would never grow one normally because one variety typically always dominates eventually. With the espalier you control each branch vigor, it requires a lot attention and training but it’s a labor of love. Also no worries on the grafts mine are pretty ugly nothing to write home about but if it works thats all that matters. Good luck with your pear I’ll be looking for updates.
Pruning could hopefully help prevent one taking over. I wonder how each one would differ in development, ripeness and time of harvest eitherway it is something to try for sure!
Good job! Regarding the lower buds, to force them to grow faster try notching above each one of them!
That's interesting. I wonder if that reduces sap flow to the top of the tree, thereby concentrating the sap flow to those lower buds? Interesting concept.
Remarkably all the grafts were successful, you the man. Grafting for many years don’t remember ever having 100% success with 3 or more grafts.
Thank you for these tips I definitely want to try this. Hopefully all three work. 🙏
Wow!! Those grafts look great!!
Thank you!
Hey you should try the grafting tool on your big pepper plant that you over winter, graft some different varieties onto that big old mother plant
Hi, I love your videos. Greetings from Spain
Thank you! I appreciate you watching!
Im no expert, but i giggles at your bud grafting because of the degree of danger you added trying to show up. It is a tricky technique. You did just fine. Good show. I think i speak for alot of viewers when i say thank you for showing the process from beginning to end with result. Nice work.
I just found your channel. I’m excited to learn even more. Thanks, greetings from Australia!
I'm glad the channel is helpful! Thanks so much for watching!
Good Job
Nice sharing👍
Thanks!
Perfect timing. I got two sets each of pear, plum, peach and apple scionwood just in case I get it wrong. I have to practice first with the grafting knife with pruned peach cuttings. Fingers crossed, I hope at least one works on each tree. Amazing video as usual, thanks.
Just subscribed. In my 60's & been planting garden for years, but always willing to learn more. Thanks for sharing your vids.
That was pretty good man, I appreciate your time to show how it’s done
Excellent job👍
Thank you!
It's all a great big science experiment in the home garden! Nice video
I agree with what you said about the apical dominance and for that reason I would trim off the top branches and let the apical dominance travel down lower through the plant and push out those lower buds
I think I'm going to try what another commenter said and cut above the lower buds to try and concentrate sap flow to them. Sounds like an interesting concept. If that doesn't work, I may have to decapitate the other branches early.
Thank you!!!! My first and only grafting attempt failed. With your video, I know why now. Good job!💞
I'm glad it could be helpful. Definitely keep trying. Every time you do it, you'll get better and better.
I have Those same grafting snips and they are fantastic
They really are! You'd think they'd be a junk tool, but they're actually pretty great.
Very kool dude.
Thank you!
Great stuff my man! I need to get my grafting game up, March 2023.
Definitely give it a go. It's fun to do!
Thanks again for sharing this.
You're welcome!
You did so well! I'm inspired to try it, especially with the grafting tool.
Please do! Remember, if the grafts don't take, just make another. You can do it over and over again until you get it right.
amazing bud! (pun intended)
That is interesting information! Thank you for sharing 😊👍
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
This video (like allllll of your videos) is SO AMAZINGLY USEFUL! What a fantastic concept and you explain everything so thoroughly! 💜💜💜🌳🌳🌳
I'm really happy to hear that! Thanks so much.
This is very inspiring! It's great that you are always coming up with new projects. For me, the idea for us followers is to keep learning new things. After OD-ing on gardening RUclipss during covid new is good and I pass on repetitive. So I appreciate your new endeavors. Others seem to think that after showing us last year's garden tour that it's interesting to see the same thing this year.
How are your manually pollinated figs doing? Do you expect them to fruit this yesr?
Thanks.
Believe me, I wish I had *less* projects to do 😅 There are so many things I need to do, still. I have a laundry list of new projects to start. My next projects will be modular greenhouses, screening in the entire garden and extending my landscape borders, but it's getting so hot here that I just can't do these projects in these conditions. I understand why growers film the tours. They're really easy to film. These projects are really hard to set up and film. You have to rely on manual focusing, and they make the projects take literally 5 times longer. Something that takes 1-2 hours winds up taking an entire afternoon when you film it, and then the editing is even more difficult.
This is not going to be a good year for my figs, and I'll tell you why. Not only did we have a terrible winter that killed about a dozen of them down to the ground, but because I overwintered all those fig seedlings, I wound up creating a disease issue in my garden. Normally, figs drop all their leaves, so all the rust from the fall dies with it. Because I overwintered my seedlings, I wound up carrying that rust over into this season, and it spread to all my trees. Usually, it takes until August/September for rust to start, but now I gave all my trees rust in MAY! Now, everything is in bad shape. The seedlings are still growing and doing well, but I wound up accidentally sabotaging my season by overwintering rust. It didn't even cross my mind at the time that that would happen.
@@TheMillennialGardener That rust must be lousy for you. My 1 large in ground fig did SO well last year. A bumper crop. I ordered 8 cuttings and 5 took. Also took cuttings from my own tree, which did well. Alas the big fig is inundated with Spotted Lantern Fly nymphs. They're ducking the life out of it. They like the younger guys less but also have a taste for citrus. I was in defense mode, now in offence. Good luck this summer.
Very cool. I think maybe I should change my old worn out 32-year career and become a master grafter for when the SHTF. :)
I know the feeling. I wish I could do just this. There is something so peaceful and relaxing about gardening. It's therapeutic.
korean pears are life changing
I can't wait until the day comes when I can harvest them!
@@TheMillennialGardener they started selling them at my co-op (outside of seattle) which is nice but for 4.99 /lb so about 6-7 per pear
❤️
Thanks for watching!
So at the top its going to be like an Open Center cut? Or is it a different cut. If it is it will definitely grow out left and right versus straight up.
I'm interested in what fruits are compatible for grafting. For example, can cherry graft to apple? I imagine that the main considerations are with the nutrient requirements matching the root stock.
They generally have to be within the same species. There are some exceptions. You can, for example, graft lemons, limes and oranges to the same rootstock *if* that rootstock is compatible with all 3 species. You can also, in some cases, graft a nectarine, plum and peach to the same tree since they're all stone fruits that can be compatible in some cases with some rootstocks. If you want to create a multi-grafted fruit tree with different species, you need to carefully research which types and rootstocks are compatible. They're not all plug-and-play. You're never going to be able to graft an apple and a cherry since they are in entirely different families. You can craft 2 different apples on the same apple tree, but you can't mix and match fruits unless they're very closely related.
Thanks for the basic overview. I have a question about that Hardy Chicago fig I just bought. It says it's grown from cultivated stock, what does that mean? It's a really thin stick with a couple leaves and a small root ball. It cost $10 he said it was $1 more than what he paid for it. It's from Netherland Bulb Company. Thanks
You need to stretch that tape to 1) create a tight wrap to stabilize the graft and create good contact of the cambium, and 2) to make it easier for the buds, as they grow, to break through.
That’s as far as the tape can stretch. I had to delete several takes where the tape broke. Any tighter and it would’ve broken yet again.
@@TheMillennialGardener The tape should stretch considerably...maybe try a better and thinner brand. Never seen a brand that was that stiff. Grafted three apple trees last year with 3 different types, also espalier.
Great video. I learned a lot. Thank you. Can this be done with a peach tree that's about the same size?
Absolutely! You can graft multiple peach varieties to a single peach tree. In fact, if you get the proper rootstock, you can even find instances where you can graft a peach, plum and nectarine onto a single tree. Here is an example from Willis Orchards: www.willisorchards.com/product/4-in-1-fruit-salad-tree#:~:text=Elberta%20Peach%2C%20Fantasia%20Nectarine%2C%20Santa%20Rosa%20Plum%2C%20Blenheim,to%20give%20you%20the%20strongest%204-in-1%20tree%20possible.
Now, I don't know exactly what rootstock is required to graft all those different species onto a single tree, but it is doable with proper research. You can also have Asian and European pears on a single tree.
No grafting tape, no money for grafting tape... any suggestions for household substitutes?
Thank you for your grafting vid. I kinda know which graft to use on my Avocado plant, now to find a piece of grafting materials. Got any Ideas? The Green Lizard (podcast) is out of grafts and will not have any until fall. I guess I had better check when to graft and avocado. Spring????? I will have to bring it in my house for winter. (Probably spring.....hope I am still alive, 75th tomorrow’s...lol)
It's going to be really hard to find wood in the summer. The reason why is because all the growth at this time of year is new growth, and it hasn't hardened off and lignified yet. Usually, wood becomes available in late fall/winter. You can maybe try Fruitwood Nursery and Burnt Ridge:
fruitwoodnursery.com/fruit-tree-scion-and-cuttings-wood/avocado-scionwood
www.burntridgenursery.com/Scionwood/products/94/
As you can see, almost everything is out of stock now, but it will eventually be re-populated, so check back every now and then. In the meantime, now is a good time to get your rootstock growing if you want to graft in a container.
I’ve always been wary of these types of trees. I’ve heard they won’t make as much of any one fruit and it may not be as good compared to a tree dedicated to one. Also grafting where I’m at in zone 6 I’ve heard could lead to loss of the tree if the grafted section dies in a frost or something? Idk I’m just not sure if it’s worth not getting a few of the full trees if you have the space anyway.
Pups acclimate to water best at an early age. They know it is a natural feeling after developing in the mothers amniotic sack for weeks. There is no fear of water, just comfort. Dale will learn and remember from his early days, it will just take some time for him to settle. Try to stay way from waves and noise in the beginning of his journey. Find a pond or lake first as this is more the environment he remembers. Surf and waves will be better later and he will be more confident because his size and strength will not allow the movement to threaten him. Remember, he thinks he is still a helpless puppy around water until he processes the fact that it cannot hurt him. 👅🐾🐾
I wish I'd seen this video 2 years ago when I planted my plum and peach trees.the roots of the plum tree is sending off more trees that got away from me. I really really gotta prune it way back..whens the best time for that?
When it comes to pruning off suckers coming from the roots, they should be done all year as they appear. When it comes to physically shaping the tree, that's something you do during the dormant season. The only pruning that should be done during the summer is just to prune out any growth growing "into" the tree, thinning the fruit and letting in more light to help the fruit ripen if necessary. You shouldn't be shaping the tree while it's actively growing, because that can remove the fruiting wood and fruits.
I stopped using the graft tool, i had very low success rate. I now do it manually. The parafilm may not create enough pressure to keep cambium contact nice and tight. it might dry out. I use rubber bands. Good luck
I've had really good luck with the grafting tool. Every time I've used it, it has been successful. I like doing a double layer of parafilm, and then you can wrap it again on the base at the graft point with a rubber band or grafting tape. The pressure is pretty critical.
I want to do this with a donut peach. Can I use just a tree or dose it have to be a fruit tree?
It has to be the same species, in most cases, or a very close relative. You’ll want to graft a peach onto another peach. There are some exceptions. You can graft European pears and Asian pears on the same tree, at least with certain rootstocks. Same with citrus: you can graft oranges and lemons to some rootstocks and have a multi-fruited citrus…they have to be very closely related.
@@TheMillennialGardener ok great thank you very much.
I was kind of expecting you to make the native branch on the bottom instead of the top.
I could have grafted both new varieties on the two branches up top. That, honestly, could have helped them take more quickly, but I wanted to try both methods. Hopefully, it works out in the long run.
@@TheMillennialGardener the best of luck my friend.
next time you could film everything and then do a voice over after so you can concentrate better
The challenge is actually trying to make the cuts while ensuring everything is within the frame. The problem with filming this type of work is you have to use manual focus and can't use autofocus, so you have to make sure you're holding everything in such a way that you aren't significantly altering the location of the tree or it'll go out of focus.