Dave, I got one better than that. My mom had a service policy with the local electric company. The blower motor bearings went up. They came out and replaced the motor, a GM gas hot air one. I get home from work, getting ready for diner and the furnace turns on. A loud hum is now sounding. It's loud enough that I had to raise my voice just to be heard. I say to my mom, " What is that noise?" she answers, " It's the new furnace motor". Well, that was NOT acceptable. I go down to where the unit is located, open up the cover, slide out the blower unit and notice an arrow stamped on the motor and it positioned to the right side on the housing. I loosen up the mounting brackets, rotate the motor to where the arrow is pointing up, re tighten the hardware and the hum went away. The arrow was a balance mark. I'm so glad that I found the problem. So much for a service contract, the guy didn't care. I feel you pain Dave.
I remember you serviced a Panasonic PVS7670 On feb 9 2023 and A Panasonic PV 4250 On Jan 30 or 31 2020 when you forgot to soldier the mode switch back on and the vcr didn't work. But its been over a year since you last serviced a Panasonic vcr in general.
Why was this type of Panasonic mechanism (Y mech) only used in North American models even though all of them were made in Japan? Did Panasonic have different factories for each region's machines?
Thanks Dave. Put your thermal imager on the panel, Lets see a video of what it looks like LOL... I couldn't help but notice 2 Progressive Toners hanging buy the Scope LOL.... I think I have the oldest Progressive toner made. It was well used when I got it in 84. it's all beat to hell but still works.. It even has it's own very tiny speaker to let you know it was on. all the new ones do not have that. Mike M.
Hi Dave. Is the motor capacitor on your AC unit, wearing out and turning into a resistor. As a result, it's drawing more current than the 15 amp breaker. The extra initial current surge from the worn out motor capacitor, COULD be tripping the beaker. Just an idea.
What I would suggest is do a amperage test if you have a amp clamp on the line to see what the unit is drawing. As the saying goes just because its new dosnt mean its good - as the new breaker could be faulty or its not seated tightly - any looseness will cause overheating And I know this from the RV park industry where people burn out there plugs due to bad worn out plugs and or sockets...
This is a brand new unit. It also has a breaker / gfci plug on the end of the cord that doesn't trip. Go figure. The panel gets quite warm in the afternoon when the sun has been shining on the side of the garage all day.
Non working units are worth exactly "zero" in my books but if some fool wants to give me a cash for junk, I'm not stupid. I'll take his money. That is the mindset of ebay sellers. It's not worth anything but everything is for sale. To someone looking for s specific part they can no longer obtain it may be worth it.
BTW Dave, that high draw air conditioner circuit seems a little excessive. I'm not so sure that it's the unit. Might be something else. Say a wire connection that's not secure or a circuit wire itself. I'd like to see what a ampere draw with and without the A/C on would be. If it's the wire, a re run might be necessary. A new receptacle or plug, also. I'd check that before just upping up the breaker rating, just to be safe, you know.
It's brand new and it is NOT tripping the breaker / gfci plug on the cord. All was fine till the heat from the sun heats the wall up. Never underestimate the heat of the sun. I use an old milk crate as a step ladder at work so I can reach ceilings when installing fiber at work. Sat I was putting up a camera at a customer house. Rather than drag out ny step ladder I figured I would use my black plastic milk crate. I was working on the sunny side and the black plastic got so hot within 5 minutes that when I stepped on it one corner started to buckle and bend. I got off and pushed the plastic back into place and removed it from the sun. It was quite soft.
BOY OH BOY good thing you're not up in cache creek as it was 41 today and we're supposed to get up to 36 by tuesday. in the Carriboo..HOT?!! Ya think??
Id be carefull in raising the amperage rating on the breaker - 14 gouge is only rated for Note that a 14 gauge wire on a 20 amp circuit is not the correct size, as it is only rated to handle up to 15 Amp in residential applications. Using 14 AWG for a 20 Amp breaker will result in overheating and a risk of electrical fire. Using a 10 AWG wire for a 20 amp circuit is possible and safe but not cost-effective. Theres a break somewhere or you have a junction thats weak ...
14AWG is acceptable for 20 Amp, whatever the code says. 14 AWG is 2.5mm2, and it is (or was by the previous regulation) good for 20A in Europe. It's better to use 4mm2 (AWG 12) for 20A in long runs, but AWG 14 will not overheat at 20A, unless on that side of the pond you use some insulation which is less heat resistant than PVC.
Its all 12ga in the house. I would know i bought it all. There is only 1 tiny piece of 14, and that is that wire that goes from the yellow wire nut to the breaker and that was because it was all I had on hand when I changed the configuration to put in the 240 plug for the car charger. It will never ever have more then 15 amps drawn through it because there are only 2 things plugged in. The ac in the shop and a small heater in the winter and never run together (they would trip the breaker if both plugged in) So no, going to a 20 is not going to cause any issues at all because it's 12ga wire to begin with. Some runs are done in 10 Guage. The hvac is 8 gage. When I built the place in 02 I over built the wiring as I knew there would be lots of loads.
@12voltvids got a ya you may need a new start run cap in that place. I would wash the outside coils with some dish soap a few times a year just to keep the coils clean
Just had our heat pump serviced, compressor start capacitor was bad. $400 USD they charged me for a new $30 capacitor and the install.... Normally I would have done the troubleshooting and repaired it myself, but my father was having surgery and I had to be at the hospital with him.
@@DavidMander-rs4uk This one not yet, but it will be soon. It was such a fantastic idea to put electrolytics on a ceramic hybrid IC... If I can get one cheap, I will buy one just to see if the caps can be changed somehow. Fortunately it seems Panasonic used good SMD electrolytics around '92. I have four Technics tape decks from this period, and all the SMD electrolytics in their DD capstan motors are still good in all of them. The ESR is a bit high, but they are not leaking (yet).
@@12voltvids Good to know that this is why the vcr i have was only for 10$ as it smells bad caps everywhere on it, and when i play a tape on it the video is all junk and black and white even when i tried doing a recording on it own the colors were distorsted, knowing that it probably that same exact module you said we can't replace capacitors on it, it is probably 99% sure a junk machine. Thanks SMD caps for ever existing and causing troubles for nothing at all !
Dave, I got one better than that. My mom had a service policy with the local electric company. The blower motor bearings went up. They came out and replaced the motor, a GM gas hot air one. I get home from work, getting ready for diner and the furnace turns on. A loud hum is now sounding. It's loud enough that I had to raise my voice just to be heard. I say to my mom, " What is that noise?" she answers, " It's the new furnace motor". Well, that was NOT acceptable. I go down to where the unit is located, open up the cover, slide out the blower unit and notice an arrow stamped on the motor and it positioned to the right side on the housing. I loosen up the mounting brackets, rotate the motor to where the arrow is pointing up, re tighten the hardware and the hum went away. The arrow was a balance mark. I'm so glad that I found the problem. So much for a service contract, the guy didn't care. I feel you pain Dave.
I remember you serviced a Panasonic PVS7670 On feb 9 2023 and A Panasonic PV 4250 On Jan 30 or 31 2020 when you forgot to soldier the mode switch back on and the vcr didn't work. But its been over a year since you last serviced a Panasonic vcr in general.
I didn't forget to solder the mode switch. I have have left it off intentionally to see reaction.
@@12voltvids oh so you just wanted to show us what would happen if it wasn't soldered on?
Don’t forget the S-Video female connectors. They weren’t screwed to the back panel when you put the machine together.
Its called editing or the video would be 2 hours long
A 2-hour video sounds good to me 😂😂😂
Why was this type of Panasonic mechanism (Y mech) only used in North American models even though all of them were made in Japan? Did Panasonic have different factories for each region's machines?
Thanks Dave.
Put your thermal imager on the panel, Lets see a video of what it looks like LOL...
I couldn't help but notice 2 Progressive Toners hanging buy the Scope LOL....
I think I have the oldest Progressive toner made. It was well used when I got it in 84. it's all beat to hell but still works.. It even has it's own very tiny speaker to let you know it was on. all the new ones do not have that.
Mike M.
Hi Dave. Is the motor capacitor on your AC unit, wearing out and turning into a resistor. As a result, it's drawing more current than the 15 amp breaker. The extra initial current surge from the worn out motor capacitor, COULD be tripping the beaker. Just an idea.
It's brand new. Has perhaps 10 hours on it.
These panasonics would have another manufacture date on the loading belt on a sticker and i bet it will be early 92 sometime.
What I would suggest is do a amperage test if you have a amp clamp on the line to see what the unit is drawing. As the saying goes just because its new dosnt mean its good - as the new breaker could be faulty or its not seated tightly - any looseness will cause overheating And I know this from the RV park industry where people burn out there plugs due to bad worn out plugs and or sockets...
Lawrence
In English sentences, two vowels are not allowed (a amp)
Its not drawing more than 1000 watts. I already put a meter on it when I reviewed it.
Besides the breaker unit getting very warm, maybe your AC has a defect that causes a current spike which makes the breaker trip.
This is a brand new unit. It also has a breaker / gfci plug on the end of the cord that doesn't trip. Go figure. The panel gets quite warm in the afternoon when the sun has been shining on the side of the garage all day.
I wish someone would tell Ebay that not working units are not worth what they ask for them
Non working units are worth exactly "zero" in my books but if some fool wants to give me a cash for junk, I'm not stupid. I'll take his money. That is the mindset of ebay sellers. It's not worth anything but everything is for sale. To someone looking for s specific part they can no longer obtain it may be worth it.
Those Panasonic vcr’s are about as useful as a cup full of cold snow. Also regarding the hvac have u checked or replaced the run capacitor?
Morors are running fine. The caps were replaced a few years ago when they blew up, literally one exploded outside.
Maybe just worth a quick check Dave as this crapastors are from china
Panasonic were not my favorite brand of vcr considering I had an AGW1 and AG1970 and both were pretty much shot by the time they were 6 years old.
BTW Dave, that high draw air conditioner circuit seems a little excessive. I'm not so sure that it's the unit. Might be something else. Say a wire connection that's not secure or a circuit wire itself. I'd like to see what a ampere draw with and without the A/C on would be. If it's the wire, a re run might be necessary. A new receptacle or plug, also. I'd check that before just upping up the breaker rating, just to be safe, you know.
I just upgraded it a month or so ago when I got it. The draw is 1000 watts but inrush is higher when compressor starts
Look how discolored the gears are 😬
Its old
The A/C may have a short in it
It's brand new and it is NOT tripping the breaker / gfci plug on the cord. All was fine till the heat from the sun heats the wall up. Never underestimate the heat of the sun. I use an old milk crate as a step ladder at work so I can reach ceilings when installing fiber at work. Sat I was putting up a camera at a customer house. Rather than drag out ny step ladder I figured I would use my black plastic milk crate. I was working on the sunny side and the black plastic got so hot within 5 minutes that when I stepped on it one corner started to buckle and bend. I got off and pushed the plastic back into place and removed it from the sun. It was quite soft.
if the 20 amp trips it the compressor putting to much draw on the motor
BOY OH BOY good thing you're not up in cache creek as it was 41 today and we're supposed to get up to 36 by tuesday. in the Carriboo..HOT?!! Ya think??
You can have it. I'm staying inside in the nice cool house. My wallet is gonna hurt next month.
Good old trash creek where we send our garbage to be back filled into old closed mines.
@@12voltvids Ohhhh -So thats where all the goodies come from huh?!!!
Id be carefull in raising the amperage rating on the breaker - 14 gouge is only rated for
Note that a 14 gauge wire on a 20 amp circuit is not the correct size, as it is only rated to handle up to 15 Amp in residential applications. Using 14 AWG for a 20 Amp breaker will result in overheating and a risk of electrical fire. Using a 10 AWG wire for a 20 amp circuit is possible and safe but not cost-effective.
Theres a break somewhere or you have a junction thats weak ...
It doesn't draw more than 1000 watts. I did put the watt meter on it. Its tripping because of the heat. The only thing on this circuit is the ac
14AWG is acceptable for 20 Amp, whatever the code says. 14 AWG is 2.5mm2, and it is (or was by the previous regulation) good for 20A in Europe. It's better to use 4mm2 (AWG 12) for 20A in long runs, but AWG 14 will not overheat at 20A, unless on that side of the pond you use some insulation which is less heat resistant than PVC.
Its all 12ga in the house. I would know i bought it all. There is only 1 tiny piece of 14, and that is that wire that goes from the yellow wire nut to the breaker and that was because it was all I had on hand when I changed the configuration to put in the 240 plug for the car charger. It will never ever have more then 15 amps drawn through it because there are only 2 things plugged in. The ac in the shop and a small heater in the winter and never run together (they would trip the breaker if both plugged in)
So no, going to a 20 is not going to cause any issues at all because it's 12ga wire to begin with. Some runs are done in 10 Guage. The hvac is 8 gage. When I built the place in 02 I over built the wiring as I knew there would be lots of loads.
Try a new start run cap for compressor
Just an old hvac tech here is unit a window shaker sometimes they just need a good cleaning so the pressures are ok
@@alanarmstrong2323
Its a 5 ton carrier hvac heat pump. The evaporator on the air handler likely needs cleaning. Been in service 22 years.
@12voltvids got a ya you may need a new start run cap in that place. I would wash the outside coils with some dish soap a few times a year just to keep the coils clean
Just had our heat pump serviced, compressor start capacitor was bad. $400 USD they charged me for a new $30 capacitor and the install.... Normally I would have done the troubleshooting and repaired it myself, but my father was having surgery and I had to be at the hospital with him.
@@BEdmonson85 I keep an extra one on hand just for that
use a 20 amp breaker
A lot of background noise, shhhh
Sounds like a you problem
The 32 year old S-VHS machine is junk!! 🗑️😆
@@DavidMander-rs4uk This one not yet, but it will be soon. It was such a fantastic idea to put electrolytics on a ceramic hybrid IC... If I can get one cheap, I will buy one just to see if the caps can be changed somehow. Fortunately it seems Panasonic used good SMD electrolytics around '92. I have four Technics tape decks from this period, and all the SMD electrolytics in their DD capstan motors are still good in all of them. The ESR is a bit high, but they are not leaking (yet).
Hey I made 100 bucks getting it to run. I'm sure the caps will fail but at this moment they are working. You are right though they are junk.
@@12voltvids Good to know that this is why the vcr i have was only for 10$ as it smells bad caps everywhere on it, and when i play a tape on it the video is all junk and black and white even when i tried doing a recording on it own the colors were distorsted, knowing that it probably that same exact module you said we can't replace capacitors on it, it is probably 99% sure a junk machine. Thanks SMD caps for ever existing and causing troubles for nothing at all !