Great content Steve. Question with the 15mm vapor barrier do you still need a Radon mitigation system? Vent thru roof and fan. Thanks again for the great content.
Big fan of this approach Steve. Anything to minimise the amount of concrete we are pouring. Have you looked at recycled foamed glass aggregates for slabs? I don't know if it's available in North America but in the UK and Europe we have products like Foamglas and Geocell. It's a great insulator. You can use it in place of the crushed stone and do away with the layer of EPS.
With a slab on grade you would treat for termites right before pouring concrete. I think with this detail you would apply the termiticide on top of the sand underneath the insulation and vapor barrier. 15 mil plastic will probably keep termites out, but they love sand and will possibly get into the 1st layer of insulation if you don't treat on top of the sand.
Do you know any home builders in the Cincinnati OH area that employ the smart, sensible home construction details that you highlight in your channel. the foresight and innovation here are second to none.
I see one downside to this method. In the event of accidental flooding (water heater failure etc) there is no drying ability in the layers of the subfloor. Has this been considered and is there a way to mitigate this risk?
Are you concerned that moisture could get through the 15 mm poly and lead to deterioration of the OSB or the strength of the SIP panel not being comparable to the Advantech sheathing ?
Do you make your details available for purchase? I’m doing a slab on grade cabin in northern Minnesota and I’ve been concerned about the ware on the body of living on that slab.
@Steven Baczek Architect, may I ask who is the manufacture of those open web (metal web) floor trusses and why was the NO CONCRETE Slab Floor??? Was it less expensive or was it becuase to expensive to get concrete over to Grand Manan Island??? Liked#15 N subscribed!!!
Great video. When you do ICF and laminate drywall straight to it, what do you do with any electrical that needs to run along that wall? do you channel a groove in the insulation? Or is a furred cavity wall preferable?
Lots of videos on YT about that. Most use electric chain saws to create channels for wires. "Hot knives are used to cut out electrical boxes but I've seen people just use a recipricating saw to cut out the borders and then chisel the foam out. Furring out might be used if a large diameter pipe needs to go in the wall. You would still recess the pipe into the foam and fur out for the part that sticks out.
Built my ICF two story in 2001, ICF all the way to trusses. Hot knife wins over recip. You use a u shaped blade to cut channel, every 3 ft or so do a little jog up or down. The jog in the groove forces a bend in Romex, holds it in perfectly. Recip is annoying and messy. You will get tired of styrofoam beads.... Great channel.
That area is beautiful AND now I wanna put insulation on my floor ugh you and Matt hahaha.. Sure wish I could afford to have you go over my idea and help me figure it out the plan .. Im a disabled person now on dialysis and Im trying to rebuild around my 85' 14x56 mobile home .. however my footings are gonna be 55 gallon drums filled with concrete and rebar .. I need to build it in modular sections.. since Im 50+ and broken to hell and doing it a lil at a time.. I want build 4 ft all the way around my current trailer then put real walls not these mobile home junk use the monopoly building.. I would love to use Advantech stuff like Matts house and Im planning on using reclaimed insulation from marketplace , just 2" . I live in south Texas so hurricane is biggest threat currently have 1 window for the new shell wasn't planning on any other.. Also looking to use scissor trusses that clear my current roof of my mobile home .. Baczely build a shell around the current place so I sleep in my bed at night.. would be building wall sections and flooring sections with a jig for each thru out the spring and summer and by fall and winter I should be able to start next year I hope .. but I really like the insulation floor since my place currently have 3/4 " plywood floors 3 ft off the ground and 0 insulation in them
We are building in central Alberta. Plans called for 20 foot x 12 inch concrete piles. We contacted Postech scew piles in our area. Engineered, less expensive, fast, clean and accurate placement. They were in and out of our location in 3 hours for 8 piles. Would not hesitate to use them again.
SB.. question about the use of open web trusses. I had heard the there should be draft stop blocking across every 4' of joist. Is this correct ? They certainly seem like a good option. TY.
What do you think about using this method as an alternative to "slab on grade" where you have a floating wooden slab with footings/stem wall holding up the exterior walls
No way. Water will find a way. Even in a perfect building world, with a site that has plenty of grading one clogged gutter/downspout during a heavy raining event and water has a chance. That wood subfloor is sandwiched between insulation and a finished floor. How quickly would it dry before rot/mold sets in?
Now were aligning thoughts - understand, a slab is concrete, but it relies on the sound compacted/undisturbed soil below too. Removing the slab doesn't change the ground prep. A basement slab while it can handle small inadequacies of the ground, it is not structural
From an European guy standpoint....this is not a serious construction, there are multiple reasons, near no thermal mass inside, cheap roof construction. Polystyrene do not go well with wood...metal connectors for the roof, not thermally efficient and prone to distord fadt in case of fire. I can see that most of those guys use brand products like they are ...magic items. Lol...concrete feeling in their knees... what a bad seller, this remind me those poor lawyer's ads you got in the US.
In a well performing home, thermal mass doesn't make much sense because you can't move the heat in or out fast enough for use. Not sure what your saying about polystyrene. The cumulative measure of the metal connectors likely moves the needle very very little -0 they are buried in a sea of insulation. I wouldn't consider any of these materials magic.......they are a pretty well tested set of ingredients with proven track records........and yes I have over 6k homes in the Southwest with slab foundations, the biggest complaint is the homeowners feel it in their knees and hips. This floor gives a little, to make a big difference. Any reference to a lawyer's ad severely compromises any comments you make, and I find myself not finding anything you say legitimate........kinda like a poor layer's ad you reference.......
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This is the video that I needed to watch.
should watch it 7X
After walking through the Risinger Build home, this is what I am most excited to use in the future.
let's goooo
Steve’s channel is SO MUCH BETTER than Matt’s channel - at least he hasn’t sold his soul to become a shill for material manufacturers
@@DrMJJr🔥
Thanks for the video 👍
thanks for joining in
Great content Steve. Question with the 15mm vapor barrier do you still need a Radon mitigation system? Vent thru roof and fan.
Thanks again for the great content.
I wish I can get an answer
Big fan of this approach Steve. Anything to minimise the amount of concrete we are pouring. Have you looked at recycled foamed glass aggregates for slabs? I don't know if it's available in North America but in the UK and Europe we have products like Foamglas and Geocell. It's a great insulator. You can use it in place of the crushed stone and do away with the layer of EPS.
We have done wood foundations and "slabless" slabs
Great video! Can you discuss the appropriateness of this type of floor in the southwest U.S. where subterranean termites are present?
With a slab on grade you would treat for termites right before pouring concrete. I think with this detail you would apply the termiticide on top of the sand underneath the insulation and vapor barrier. 15 mil plastic will probably keep termites out, but they love sand and will possibly get into the 1st layer of insulation if you don't treat on top of the sand.
@@Drewdown1 I would not use sand but crushed rock, thus treating the grade before pouring the rock.
Stego also has a termite system we employed in AL
Do you know any home builders in the Cincinnati OH area that employ the smart, sensible home construction details that you highlight in your channel. the foresight and innovation here are second to none.
I don't, but they are there....
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 👍
Can this "no concrete slab floor" be used as a garage floor? Will it hold weight of cars/trucks?
👍
I see one downside to this method. In the event of accidental flooding (water heater failure etc) there is no drying ability in the layers of the subfloor. Has this been considered and is there a way to mitigate this risk?
Good question. Do we really need that much concrete in homes?
There's alot of things I question - hope your doing well
Yes - the more the better.
Looks like a 4 1/2” SIP panel could be a similar/ stronger floor slab assembly. Thought ? 🇨🇦
The OSB in a SIPS is a different recipe than the Advantech - It would bring me to caution
Are you concerned that moisture could get through the 15 mm poly and lead to deterioration of the OSB or the strength of the SIP panel not being comparable to the Advantech sheathing ?
How does this compare to Slab on Grade as far as cost per sq ft? When & where would you suggest this is a better option? thanks
Maybe a stupid question, but why couldn't you replace the second layer of foam and the first layer of OSB with R9 Advantech?
Just need to pair it with a PWF 😉
I have - see the Hobby House vids
Do you show this detail in another video? I would like to consider it for my retirement home.
I'm sure it is somewhere
Will Canadians lose their accent when they become part of the US or will we here in the US adapt a Canadian accent, eh?
Do you make your details available for purchase? I’m doing a slab on grade cabin in northern Minnesota and I’ve been concerned about the ware on the body of living on that slab.
No,
Steve at 6-8 you have a 180 lb. Frame. Using your detailing for a PGH with Warmboard
Got to see who is paying attention. Sounds like a cool project
@Steven Baczek Architect, may I ask who is the manufacture of those open web (metal web) floor trusses and why was the NO CONCRETE Slab Floor??? Was it less expensive or was it becuase to expensive to get concrete over to Grand Manan Island??? Liked#15 N subscribed!!!
I think Aron just thought it wasn't needed - and a similar result could be easily achieved
How do you build non-baring interior walls on this?
Nail them together with nails, plumb them up, and nail them off
Great video. When you do ICF and laminate drywall straight to it, what do you do with any electrical that needs to run along that wall? do you channel a groove in the insulation? Or is a furred cavity wall preferable?
Lots of videos on YT about that. Most use electric chain saws to create channels for wires. "Hot knives are used to cut out electrical boxes but I've seen people just use a recipricating saw to cut out the borders and then chisel the foam out. Furring out might be used if a large diameter pipe needs to go in the wall. You would still recess the pipe into the foam and fur out for the part that sticks out.
@@markstipulkoski1389 thank you - I concur
Built my ICF two story in 2001, ICF all the way to trusses. Hot knife wins over recip. You use a u shaped blade to cut channel, every 3 ft or so do a little jog up or down. The jog in the groove forces a bend in Romex, holds it in perfectly. Recip is annoying and messy. You will get tired of styrofoam beads.... Great channel.
That area is beautiful AND now I wanna put insulation on my floor ugh you and Matt hahaha.. Sure wish I could afford to have you go over my idea and help me figure it out the plan .. Im a disabled person now on dialysis and Im trying to rebuild around my 85' 14x56 mobile home .. however my footings are gonna be 55 gallon drums filled with concrete and rebar .. I need to build it in modular sections.. since Im 50+ and broken to hell and doing it a lil at a time.. I want build 4 ft all the way around my current trailer then put real walls not these mobile home junk use the monopoly building.. I would love to use Advantech stuff like Matts house and Im planning on using reclaimed insulation from marketplace , just 2" . I live in south Texas so hurricane is biggest threat currently have 1 window for the new shell wasn't planning on any other.. Also looking to use scissor trusses that clear my current roof of my mobile home .. Baczely build a shell around the current place so I sleep in my bed at night.. would be building wall sections and flooring sections with a jig for each thru out the spring and summer and by fall and winter I should be able to start next year I hope .. but I really like the insulation floor since my place currently have 3/4 " plywood floors 3 ft off the ground and 0 insulation in them
thanks for joining in
We are building in central Alberta. Plans called for 20 foot x 12 inch concrete piles. We contacted Postech scew piles in our area. Engineered, less expensive, fast, clean and accurate placement. They were in and out of our location in 3 hours for 8 piles. Would not hesitate to use them again.
I have a similar limited access concrete truck situation but I want radiant floor heat. Any idea on how to use this system with that?
top layer of 3/4" sheathing is 3/4" Warmboard
@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 you don't really need the up cost of the X-factor here, since it's covered and save a little cost, right?
Yes, standard Advantech is just fine
SB.. question about the use of open web trusses. I had heard the there should be draft stop blocking across every 4' of joist. Is this correct ? They certainly seem like a good option. TY.
There is typically a code requirement of something like 1200 sq ft partitioning
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 thanks, wd
What do you think about using this method as an alternative to "slab on grade" where you have a floating wooden slab with footings/stem wall holding up the exterior walls
We have used this method for a 3500 sq ft slab on grade house
@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 amazing, thank you. Love to reduce the amount of concrete used
Would you recommend this in an area with potential for a high water table?
Sure, the water issue needs to be resolved regardless
No way. Water will find a way. Even in a perfect building world, with a site that has plenty of grading one clogged gutter/downspout during a heavy raining event and water has a chance. That wood subfloor is sandwiched between insulation and a finished floor. How quickly would it dry before rot/mold sets in?
Is the no concrete floor rigid enough to apply ceramic tiling?
we have
If the floor was slightly deflecting under Steves 160 lb frame, I would not recommend tile on top.
Using this system with Glass Foam granulate (i.e. Glavel) would even be better, no need to use any EPS/XPS-foam in that case.
Kinda.....Glavel is not an easy material to level. If I used glavel, I would leave a 2"-3" topper and use a 3/8" stone to level the bed
I was concern about the weight carrying ability of that floor, but it looks like it passed the Steve Bacsek test, all 160 pounds.👍
Now were aligning thoughts - understand, a slab is concrete, but it relies on the sound compacted/undisturbed soil below too. Removing the slab doesn't change the ground prep. A basement slab while it can handle small inadequacies of the ground, it is not structural
Thank you
Kinda makes you wonder, why do we ever use concrete for the basement floors?
Animals have a challenging time getting through concrete.
From an European guy standpoint....this is not a serious construction, there are multiple reasons, near no thermal mass inside, cheap roof construction. Polystyrene do not go well with wood...metal connectors for the roof, not thermally efficient and prone to distord fadt in case of fire. I can see that most of those guys use brand products like they are ...magic items.
Lol...concrete feeling in their knees... what a bad seller, this remind me those poor lawyer's ads you got in the US.
In a well performing home, thermal mass doesn't make much sense because you can't move the heat in or out fast enough for use. Not sure what your saying about polystyrene. The cumulative measure of the metal connectors likely moves the needle very very little -0 they are buried in a sea of insulation. I wouldn't consider any of these materials magic.......they are a pretty well tested set of ingredients with proven track records........and yes I have over 6k homes in the Southwest with slab foundations, the biggest complaint is the homeowners feel it in their knees and hips. This floor gives a little, to make a big difference. Any reference to a lawyer's ad severely compromises any comments you make, and I find myself not finding anything you say legitimate........kinda like a poor layer's ad you reference.......