Really strange that the algorithm doesn't seem to like suggesting this video. It's great to watch functional DIY parts, and love the usage of cardboard and printing for prototyping before using more expensive material in the CNC.
Please use epoxy on the stay mounts.. The fastener holes will start to oval out extremely quickly and then exponentially become worse, before ripping out again.
@@TeachingTech Quite a steep price tag, but god damn - for the sheer amount of stuff you seem able to manufacture with this - incredible. My dad works a lot with restoring old classic muscle cars so one of these would be a blessing. Definitely adding this to my watchlist. I'm curious about laser-cutting cardboard though, is it a special cardboard? I would imagine cardboard to be quite flammable?
@@TeachingTech I think about anything car quick lock and release to be much like engine hood latches. They have worked for years on hoods! Although designing your own lock is great content! Thanks for the awesome video!
I'd hardly recommend to use screw locking varnish on all screws on your racecar. Not for securing the screws but for an quick optical help to identify loose bolts. From experience I can tell you that even selfsecuring nuts and screws secured with loctite will come lose after some time on a racecar. We use this stuff on almost all screws, especially everything suspension or drivetrain-related. Why didn't you send the fire supression tank to a service? They'll check/refill the system and it'll get a new scrutineering-stamp. At least here in Germany/EU these systems have to get serviced every two years.
Great design and review! I think you could add one failsafe that would provide some piece of mind about the camera not flying off.. Add a hoop at the back, and then use that to attach a cable of some sort to the camera. If the camera happens to fall out, then it has a leash as a failsafe to keep it close to the car. It should make enough noise for you to hear it so you can pull off of the track to deal with it.
Hi Michael, the chosen camera seems very vulnerable to me on top there. If hit with a small stone or piece of debris launched by a car in front of you, it will be destroyed beyond repair instantly. I would at least try to protect the LCD part of it with some shielding to minimize the risk.
There are some pretty good recommendations here already, but one that I'd add is for a thin tpu gasket under the camera mount plate to take up any gaps that might let the mount flex while in use. Don't want a repeat of the spoiler incident on the scoop...
At the moment I've shimmed the top of the fibreglass bodywork with some tape to fill up any void. I'd like to replace the tape with something a bit more robust in future.
i think the camera securing mounting mechanism needs to double net, (term means 2 ways to lock and remove) so that it has a backup lock just in case due to vibration as you mentioned or any other bumps jerks, road/ terrain etc or just purely bcause of high speed drag friction to air , any unforeseen reason the mounting on any high speed vehicle should always have a 2 step check to it. You can implement it by adding 2 types of lockign mechanism or by adding more no. of same type of locking mechanism. Different types might be better idea since there is no testing involved at least at this point in time so having different type of lock will reduce failure probability to 50% from a 100% if it occurs at any given point of time. Also please check rules about where can you put camera with the race organisers before making any permanent drilling to the chasis/cover/body. That is also something you need to get your vehicle checked and inspected for to be able to stay valid in race. Good luck going Vroom Vroom...
It definitely has that 'just works' feel. It's much like using a 3D printer, in that it sits in my studio with the printers, and by the end of this project I was sending jobs to it and not even checking they had started properly. I have faith in this that I've never had in another CNC router.
@@TeachingTech That sounds great, especially for beginners. It took me forever to get my printers to the point where I can just leave the room and go about my day, and beginner me would have much appreciated the "just works" Bambu 7 years ago
@@TrickyDicky2006 I would recommend just getting a Langmuir MR1 if you want to do any real CNC work. These small desktop ones are a neat toy but you can get something way more capable for the same price.
Was thinking that this machine is awesome, then the price! But by the end of the video, auto level, auto tool change, great software. The price actually ain't that bad really.
I think the tool changer and auto leveler are what sets this machine apart. Without them you need to do it manually so no job with more than one bit is "fire and forget". Also, the leveling process on some of the cheaper machines looks really awkward. Apart from the build quality which seems really good, these features must be really pricey.
Agreed, but I would rather spend this amount and get a machine like this than half the amount for a machine I have to work around all its cheaper design options. I have been looking for such a machine option, now I just have to wait until I can afford to spend that amount on another hobby toy :)
With item 1 could you of keyed all the surfaces with 80 grit, and used a fresh batch of epoxy resin to bond the parts back together? You could use the fixtures to clamp the parts together to create a really effective bond. I’ve used self tapping screws the same way, and then removed them once the epoxy has cured. Great video, but where is the link to your new automotive yt page in the description?
Because it's in four pieces, It makes it straightforward to remake just one of them to tweak the design. I'm thinking for the first run, I'll make a safety part that bolts on at the rear. It will allow the lock to swivel, but not so far that it can disengage. Then I'll know how much it moves on the track.
Hi Michael, I own an Insta 360 camera. It's an older one (the "360 One", I think)... different camera but uses the same software editor from Insta 360. If you "go down the rabbit hole" and start getting into making 360 videos, I would be interested in watching tutorials from you and interested to see what software and your workflow for making 360 videos. I know of a few workflows, but I'm interested to see what you end up using.
I might cover it briefly on the other channel. Plan is to record on Insta360, then put it through the editor showed here to export a flat front facing view, potentially export ano9ther pass looking in whatever direction is interesting. Then I have the vbox footage to cut to on occasion. There is a program called Race Render that will take the output of the datalogger and generate a graphics overlay that can be added to the camera streams. At this stage I have no intention of releasing the actual 360 footage. I've done it once in the past and it wasn't really that great.
I got an Insta360 X3 when they came out and love it. Use it for skiing, snorkeling/scuba diving, zip lining, and any other action shots I can think of with me or my kids.
Item 3 I’d of liked to see you use a threaded rivet, rather then tap a thread into aluminium. That’s super cringe in my parts. You could use your trick new mill to counter sink the top flat part of the steel “Nutsert” flush in your alloy. There’s been plenty of times I wish I could of done that. You could of also keyed the alloy plus fibreglass and bonded them together with epoxy resin to make a nice composite. That type of composite bond has hydraulic damping effect. Brainstorming feedback 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀😎
Chamfers mate. Chamfers are your friend
I need to get a 45 degree bit and then I'll have the machine add them for me.
@@TeachingTech90 degree, usually they are measured inclusive at least for all the ones I have bought.
exept on carbon fiber, it generally likes to delaminate faster with chamfers
Really strange that the algorithm doesn't seem to like suggesting this video. It's great to watch functional DIY parts, and love the usage of cardboard and printing for prototyping before using more expensive material in the CNC.
A well thought out run-through. Thanks
Please use epoxy on the stay mounts.. The fastener holes will start to oval out extremely quickly and then exponentially become worse, before ripping out again.
My thoughts as well.
Love to see more content with the Carvera. Backer #5 here. Great machine.
Glad you like it. I've read through the Discord and everyone seems to be happy.
@@TeachingTech Quite a steep price tag, but god damn - for the sheer amount of stuff you seem able to manufacture with this - incredible. My dad works a lot with restoring old classic muscle cars so one of these would be a blessing.
Definitely adding this to my watchlist. I'm curious about laser-cutting cardboard though, is it a special cardboard? I would imagine cardboard to be quite flammable?
@@Dealman15 now you can get one without automatic tool switch on a kickstarter for 1399 :) A good deal if you're looking for it still.
The camera lock should have been an over-center lock. That current thing will 100% vibrate itself open.
I'm very much thinking I'll redesign the lock piece to suit the rest of the components.
@@TeachingTech I think about anything car quick lock and release to be much like engine hood latches. They have worked for years on hoods! Although designing your own lock is great content! Thanks for the awesome video!
I am hoping that someone would ask makera to add 5th axis, this shouldn’t be too complicated. They seem to be listening to such videos :)
That would be 🤩🤩🤩
The best series in this channel (apart from the educational content) are the ones on racing and cars!
I'd hardly recommend to use screw locking varnish on all screws on your racecar. Not for securing the screws but for an quick optical help to identify loose bolts. From experience I can tell you that even selfsecuring nuts and screws secured with loctite will come lose after some time on a racecar. We use this stuff on almost all screws, especially everything suspension or drivetrain-related.
Why didn't you send the fire supression tank to a service? They'll check/refill the system and it'll get a new scrutineering-stamp. At least here in Germany/EU these systems have to get serviced every two years.
Kiri:moto is the star of this video! The software is great! The only thing better it could do is if they added 3d modeling ability to it.
11:38 Your screws are not long enough as per standard. You should see two thread pitches after installation on top of the nut.
Great design and review!
I think you could add one failsafe that would provide some piece of mind about the camera not flying off..
Add a hoop at the back, and then use that to attach a cable of some sort to the camera. If the camera happens to fall out, then it has a leash as a failsafe to keep it close to the car. It should make enough noise for you to hear it so you can pull off of the track to deal with it.
Hi Michael, the chosen camera seems very vulnerable to me on top there. If hit with a small stone or piece of debris launched by a car in front of you, it will be destroyed beyond repair instantly. I would at least try to protect the LCD part of it with some shielding to minimize the risk.
Clear aero vacuum pressed cover would work great!
Nice, i am watching Alberto Naska for a while and he indeed has the best camera shots for racing.
A real inspiration for my new channel. I have a Go Pro session doing nothing so I'm deciding if I can be bothered to set that up as a helmet cam too.
so nice work!!! i’m looking for this cnc everyday. happy to watching this video. thanks a lot
This is definitely something I didn't know I needed!
The Carvera seems to be the Bambulab of the CNC router world.
There are some pretty good recommendations here already, but one that I'd add is for a thin tpu gasket under the camera mount plate to take up any gaps that might let the mount flex while in use. Don't want a repeat of the spoiler incident on the scoop...
At the moment I've shimmed the top of the fibreglass bodywork with some tape to fill up any void. I'd like to replace the tape with something a bit more robust in future.
5uo7u
very impressive machine. seems you get what you pay for.
I’m looking forward to a 2024 update on this car.
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀☮️😎
i think the camera securing mounting mechanism needs to double net, (term means 2 ways to lock and remove) so that it has a backup lock just in case due to vibration as you mentioned or any other bumps jerks, road/ terrain etc or just purely bcause of high speed drag friction to air , any unforeseen reason the mounting on any high speed vehicle should always have a 2 step check to it. You can implement it by adding 2 types of lockign mechanism or by adding more no. of same type of locking mechanism. Different types might be better idea since there is no testing involved at least at this point in time so having different type of lock will reduce failure probability to 50% from a 100% if it occurs at any given point of time. Also please check rules about where can you put camera with the race organisers before making any permanent drilling to the chasis/cover/body. That is also something you need to get your vehicle checked and inspected for to be able to stay valid in race. Good luck going Vroom Vroom...
Thanks, good suggestions.
I feel like the Carvera is the Bambu lab of consumer CNC's. Except a bit more expensive.
It definitely has that 'just works' feel. It's much like using a 3D printer, in that it sits in my studio with the printers, and by the end of this project I was sending jobs to it and not even checking they had started properly. I have faith in this that I've never had in another CNC router.
@@TeachingTech That sounds great, especially for beginners. It took me forever to get my printers to the point where I can just leave the room and go about my day, and beginner me would have much appreciated the "just works" Bambu 7 years ago
@@TrickyDicky2006 I would recommend just getting a Langmuir MR1 if you want to do any real CNC work. These small desktop ones are a neat toy but you can get something way more capable for the same price.
I’m actually kind of jealous… I love my Carvera, but am at a loss for actual projects that need it
That hill climb footage is from Gunnedah, I’ve raced there a few times👍🏼
Instant Like for the jacket! 🇧🇷
What's the video really about?! Hehehe
Strange toolpath. Wouldn't it be better to do the outline cut and tabs last so you have more rigidity?
Was thinking that this machine is awesome, then the price! But by the end of the video, auto level, auto tool change, great software. The price actually ain't that bad really.
I think the tool changer and auto leveler are what sets this machine apart. Without them you need to do it manually so no job with more than one bit is "fire and forget". Also, the leveling process on some of the cheaper machines looks really awkward. Apart from the build quality which seems really good, these features must be really pricey.
Agreed, but I would rather spend this amount and get a machine like this than half the amount for a machine I have to work around all its cheaper design options. I have been looking for such a machine option, now I just have to wait until I can afford to spend that amount on another hobby toy :)
Can confirm this is a like a 3D printer to use. After I while I was confident enough to just send the job and come back later to see it finished.
Love this but is there any comparable machines or methods not as expensive? ❤
To small for me. But the price is pretty good for a Cnc with a ATC, enclosure and ability to mill aluminum.
With item 1 could you of keyed all the surfaces with 80 grit, and used a fresh batch of epoxy resin to bond the parts back together?
You could use the fixtures to clamp the parts together to create a really effective bond.
I’ve used self tapping screws the same way, and then removed them once the epoxy has cured.
Great video, but where is the link to your new automotive yt page in the description?
I think a secondary camera lock is a very sound plan. Expect lots of vibration.
Because it's in four pieces, It makes it straightforward to remake just one of them to tweak the design. I'm thinking for the first run, I'll make a safety part that bolts on at the rear. It will allow the lock to swivel, but not so far that it can disengage. Then I'll know how much it moves on the track.
Hi Michael, I own an Insta 360 camera. It's an older one (the "360 One", I think)... different camera but uses the same software editor from Insta 360. If you "go down the rabbit hole" and start getting into making 360 videos, I would be interested in watching tutorials from you and interested to see what software and your workflow for making 360 videos. I know of a few workflows, but I'm interested to see what you end up using.
I might cover it briefly on the other channel. Plan is to record on Insta360, then put it through the editor showed here to export a flat front facing view, potentially export ano9ther pass looking in whatever direction is interesting. Then I have the vbox footage to cut to on occasion. There is a program called Race Render that will take the output of the datalogger and generate a graphics overlay that can be added to the camera streams. At this stage I have no intention of releasing the actual 360 footage. I've done it once in the past and it wasn't really that great.
I got an Insta360 X3 when they came out and love it. Use it for skiing, snorkeling/scuba diving, zip lining, and any other action shots I can think of with me or my kids.
I really, really wanna pick up the Carvera. What are your thoughts after a few months of use?
I always knew CAD was short for cardboard aided design
You lazer cut the card board? Was that done on the carvera???
You could achive same result by making mould using 3d print
I've come from the race car channel, excited to see some professional quality Motorsport engineering without the patents and secrets
In need of expertise such as yours for a product that I need prototyping. Can we talk about some potential business?
RE: more holes on the spoil board... If only you had a machine capable of making precise holes wherever you need them. 🤔
What was carbon and aluminium cutting speed?
I'd love a machine like this but it costs twice as much as my car 😢
Item 3 I’d of liked to see you use a threaded rivet, rather then tap a thread into aluminium. That’s super cringe in my parts.
You could use your trick new mill to counter sink the top flat part of the steel “Nutsert” flush in your alloy.
There’s been plenty of times I wish I could of done that.
You could of also keyed the alloy plus fibreglass and bonded them together with epoxy resin to make a nice composite.
That type of composite bond has hydraulic damping effect.
Brainstorming feedback 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀😎
I need too win lotto…
✨ Promo SM
first
Machinist fingers, bandaids and superglue