just when i thought " this man is really passionate about his sharpening stones" he said " you gotta build up a relationship with your stones" it was perfect XD
Man, I really enjoy watching these sharpening videos. It's like watching Bob Ross -but doing something I actually care about trying myself. Excellent videos!
That’s how I handled a friends 40 year old Buck 110 the other night. Found an appropriate angle to just get rid of the recurve at the blade base yet maintain a good amount of material. It came out well. Did it free hand on water stones.
Having a convex curve can definitely add strength to a blade edge but how are you going to resharpen it easily?? So I agree. A flat grind is almost always a better answer.
Nice work. That's why I prefer convex blades, maybe sounds counterintuitive but I find them easier to sharpen and conserve their geometry. Even to the kitchen knives (standard soft inox) I apply a small convex grind ensuring less metal is removed while conserving their cutting characteristics.
Kyle, you are doing a great job! You take the time to cover all the details for proper sharpening. I applied you training with great results. Many thanks my friend! Cheers from over the pond/ good old Germany! Best
I have only watched a couple of your videos so far--the anniversary knife repair series and now this one--but I have to take my hat off to you sir!!! You are a brilliant teacher! I genuinely think I have picked up some tips already from what you have said in these uploads, plus you hugely demystify the whole process. There is so much... rubbish... talked about anything to do with knives. Some of the YT creators who cover this handicraft make it look like magic, something completely beyond ordinary mortals. Instead the practicality, and common sense you demonstrate is worth so much _more_ to the layman, those who are just getting interested in sharpening or even all-out knife making at home. Cannot wait for the next video!!!
Have just started following your channel and your instructions are very easily understood…..well I guess you can teach an old dog new tricks….thanks Kyle.
Thanks very much for this. I've put a nick in the edge of my Mora so looked up videos on how to restore/sharpen it. This is very helpful indeed and encouraging for the inexperienced like me.. All the best from England.
How big was the nick? I once had a Mora basic come to me with a very small chip in the edge. It was just barely big enough to see with the eye, but I could feel it easy with my thumbnail. I decided NOT to reprofile it, because the tiny chip really didn't affect its function. Besides, a small nick will just disappear after a few sharpenings anyways. I'd suggest just normal strop and regular maintenance, unless the nick is really in the way.
@@Danielson1818 It's about the same as the one you describe. The knife still functions fine. I'll do as you suggest. Thanks for the advice. Guess I was being a bit OCD about it.
@@laurieharper1526 No worries. I'm the biggest overthinker. Its both a blessing and curse, I know. The great part is you are in full control, and scandi grind knives tend to be easier to shape and modify than most.
I learned something here. Thanks! Got my new Mora Bushcraft black. Haven't gone dull yet. But I'll try these techniques when the time comes to re-sharpen it.
Love your expertise. Just ordered this knife. I enjoy watching your technique and before I need to resharpen it,it looks like I need your stones. Just subscribed!
Hey Kyle, I just received a package from Amazon with a beginner whetstone kit for trying to sharpen my pocket knife. So glad I found your RUclips channel it really helped me get through my first sharpen. It ain't pretty but I did get it pretty sharp. Practice, practice, practice
I struggle a little with the belly of scandi ground blades. I think the angle is a lot steeper at the belly and tip than on the straights of the bevel. could you share in your video some close ups especially on the belly and tip? and on both sides of the knife....thank you. Love your narration and videos btw
@@kyle_noseworthy right now I'm enjoying my Worksharp precision sharpener so it may be awhile before I make the leap. What do you think of those expensive Russian diamond impregnated stones ( the name escapes me but Jared at Neeves knives uses them )?
Great video again mate! I was thinking you almost need a nozzle on the end of you hose so you can just grab the end and squeeze the handle instead of having to reach up and turn the valve every time. Just a thought I had to save you a bit of time 😊
Excellent job saving the bushcraft Mora knife that the customer destroyed the cutting edge. Looks like a brand new Mora knife out of the package. Love the channel
I wish I knew someone like you, who knows how to re profile knives. I have an ESEE 4 that has been reliable for years. I once accidentally hit it with a Junglas. There’s now a nick in both knives. I sharpen the small one on a turn box. It kinda works, but I know my edge is not good at all.
Keeping those bevels that clean and even on a belt grinder is tooough man. I’m getting better every time I do it but seeing guys like you do it reminds me how far I have to go. I’ll get there tho
Hey Kyle, I just ordered me a Spyderco Delica that’ll be here Friday. Also, I was happy to sharpen my Uncles bone handle and brass rivet Solingen Frost knife he gave me right before he passed away. Great video brother. 👍🏼
I am late to the game so to speak but watching you polish the edges in I ha e a question. By not keeping up with the strokes are you not going to have an un even edge down the length of the edge? When I am using these expensive stones I always try to make sure that whatever I do in one side I do on the other. I keep all moras perfectly sharp. I have one that is a display knife and the scandi has a mirror reflection. Literally you can see yourself crystal clear. You make sharpening knives look easy but it took me over 25 years to really become a master knife sharpener. Love your channel and how you explain everything.
I enjoy the content 💯, this was hard to swallow that knife is a $75 knife brand knew and I know your time spent on it is well beyond that. Again love the content
I am still waiting for the shapton 1000 and the 320 here in the uk should be in about 1 week now, thanks for another good video, I must say what a great job you did with the sanding belt which was spot on , not a thing you can master in 5 minutes, in fact many of us would do serious damage with that piece of equipment. Cheers Kyle
How can I get you to fix mine now? Mine is not quite in the same shape but it has a double bevel on it now and I want it back to that scandi grind and to look like this one.
Kyle's sharpening and repair service likely cost as much as the Mora Bushcraft Black cost... But if that was a special knife for someone... Worth fixing up and keep on using it.
we use the standard mora as a working knife at work. And after we have been using them for maybe one or two weeks we throw them away and take a new one. Its probably the same steel just another handle.
I appreciate the quality of the Naniwa Nagura but I’m having better luck using a small fine diamond stone (3” x 1”) as a “diamond Nagura”. I particularly like that it doesn’t leave any residue on the stone like the Naniwa does when creating a slurry. Thanks for another quality and informative video.
Man..i have fixed so many knives that has been much moore damaged.. Yes this one isn't a razor but its unlikely the worst one that us knife-users have seen. BUT..but i have to say that you do a GREAT work..as always😊
I like the 320 Shapton but I find a lil too thirsty to be splash and go. You can kinda see it in your video, after a but the water gets absorbed too fast. I like to splash it a few times in a sink, let it drink up and splash some more and after a bit the water stays on the surface. That's why the 1,000 Shapton is one of my favorite stones. It's truly splash and go and its rough enough(it's closer to 800-900 than 1,000 in micron size) for most jobs(I only use 320 for big chips and 120 for reprofile) and it leaves a nice enough finish and the edge still has some good bite to it. I might do a few swipes on the 2,000 but for a utility edge its good enough. If you want to make it look better then I start going up grits.
I’ve recently purchased a Gerber prodigy, love the knife , but not a fan of the steep profile , would it be cost prohibitive To get you to Re profile for me so it would be less like an axe , and more like a good cutting utensil? About what would it cost ? Thanks buddy
Learning this concept is one of the biggest things in knife sharpening. You can get a useable edge with any stone as long as you keep an even grind. As soon as you screw it up, not even the best stone can save you, but with a perfect grind, even a garden rock can make a useable edge.
Great job repairing that knife. I wonder what he used to sharpen it? It looks like a pull through sharpener(never seen one used on a scandi edge before) since the scratches at the edge were parallel to the edge instead of perpendicular. Hopefully he can maintain now that its fixed. Since its just carbon steel a good strop with some compound would go a long way to maintain that edge for a while. You only need to take it to stones if it gets chipped or you really dulled it up without touching it up.
Pull through knife sharpener is fine scandi, this knife was deliberate. Don’t get me wrong I love the channel but this was a staged recovery. The knife isn’t worth the time he spent on it
I’ve recently purchased a Gerber prodigy and love it , but I’m not crazy about the steep profile , would it be cost prohibitive To get you to Re profile flatter and clean it up a bit so it would be a bit more user friendly as a camp knife ? Lol as is , it’s closer to an axe than a fine cutting implement…. I expect freight alone would be 30.00 American round trip from North Carolina , it’s a 60.00 knife new so I hesitate to Put a great deal into it.
Based on the scratch pattern parallel with the edge and bevel pattern tapering out from the heel it definitely looks like he was using a draw-through sharpener on the knife originally.
That's what I was thinking, probably a powered one (like the worksharp) I recently spent 4-5 hours (by hand/ with stones only) repairing a bunch of knives that my friend drug thru a carbide V "sharpener" and it had literally tore chunks of steel out of the edges!
I have enough experience to understand how much heat is generated per pass, and to remove it as needed. I use the grinder barehanded, with my fingers close to the edge. I can feel the heat. I keep a bucket of cold water next to me for cooling, if needed.
I've found that the Bushcraft bevel is to aggressive to begin with esp the wall of the belly. I put mine on the new Precision Adjust worksharp and I gotta say it's good for those who can't use stones. It's not made for reprofiling so using a belt to begin that task is needed but they do have a 220 grit diamond now which is pretty wicked for simple changes. I lifted the edge thinned it out which extended the tip just a hair . It's a very good blade now ...They make these things to be batoned through big logs ...,For me it's a silly idea , I just like a knife to be a knife. I can baton with it just kindling no need to abuse her . Those Bushcrafter blacks looks really cool once they are polished. Also you are so right , ya gotta add that sharpening choil regardless if ya keep it stock or not it's a must .
My wife's father is from Haiti, this man who is now in his late 80's can take a machete, or a butterknife, and sharpen it with a piece of brick, or concrete and make it have the ability to take a 1" square piece of paper and feather it into 50 slices. I mean it will be sharpened enough to shave with. These old timers got some old timer back in the day skills thats for sure.
You can use a brick and then my advice to some people was to use cardboard to strop it and maybe the frosted edge of the top of a car window (unpopular method but it's not going to hurt your window unless you do it like a crazy person 😆)
Great analysis on where to remove material. Beautiful little mini grinding tool you have there, to cut the sharpening notch. Envy. If you ever have a chance to show how to reduce a bolster (western style knives), I'd love to watch that.
@@kyle_noseworthy ---- Hi, Kyle. Very nice work you do. After sharpening a few times, trying to use a chef's knife with a bolster like one would use a santoku for dicing or mincing on a cutting board doesn't work, because the bolster hits the board. You can sharpen the edge right up to the bolster, but then the bolster is about a 3mm thickness of steel there, and will just dig a ditch in a sharpening stone. I got a Dremel moto tool little grinding wheel and ground a millimeter (1000 microns!!) of it away, so the edge of the knife at the heel made contact with the board. The rest of the bolster is still there, so it isn't a Japanese style santoku, but you can use it like one. But I didn't do a very neat-looking job grinding, and couldn't figure out what would look best. It looks like a dented bumper on a car, heh.. You did such a good job, so quickly, cutting the sharpening notch, grinding down or cutting down a bolster would be easy for you. I'm curious about how you would shape, or reshape, the bolster.
Out of curiosity, what is the American view of a ”puukko” shape? Because as a Finn, Mora in it’s basic form IS the puukko that all others are judged on. I have some old ones that have a bit of taper in them but all of the modern ones, since the 90’s are completely straight.
Great vid man. BTW it is not a Nagura. Nagura are used to create a slurry that you sharpen with, usually on higher finisihing grit stones. And I usually only see them on waterstones or naturals. The stone you have from Naniwa is a cleaning stnne, used to clean surfaces of clogged up stones. If you try a Naniwa Pro 3000 grit, you will be amazed how little you need to use the cleaning stone, compared to the Naniwa Superstones, also the Super are much faster to wear down than Naniwa Pro´s. Also a Nagura comes with each stone, and is the same grit as the stone, so as to not create a slurry consistent of different grits.
Most stores call this stone the 'naniwa nagura'. It is technically a 'dressing stone', but for consumer use, I will call it the name most commonly used.
Why do you press so hard on the strop, is there a reason? I was always told that you want to use minimal pressure. Like the weight of your hand at most. Am I wrong?
Hello Kyle, I know that you do a lot of work on Mora knives and they are good knives. However, have you ever heard of Hultafors 380020 GK Heavy Duty Knife? they look like the Moras.
![Are MORA Edges Terrible? - [ NEW MORA KANSBOL ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/J9eTU6vSZNU/mqdefault.jpg)
![Are MORA Edges Terrible? - [ NEW MORA KANSBOL ]](/img/tr.png)
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Whoever submitted this knife, thank you. You’ve helped
just when i thought " this man is really passionate about his sharpening stones" he said " you gotta build up a relationship with your stones" it was perfect XD
Man it's so relaxing to me watching you work your knives, kind of like a Bob Rossy feeling XD Greetings from Mexico!
Haha thanks man! I love Bob Ross!
Paint some happy little clouds on it (:
No mistakes just happy little accidents!
my thoughts exactly!
Man, I really enjoy watching these sharpening videos. It's like watching Bob Ross -but doing something I actually care about trying myself. Excellent videos!
That’s how I handled a friends 40 year old Buck 110 the other night. Found an appropriate angle to just get rid of the recurve at the blade base yet maintain a good amount of material. It came out well. Did it free hand on water stones.
Having a convex curve can definitely add strength to a blade edge but how are you going to resharpen it easily?? So I agree. A flat grind is almost always a better answer.
@@zacharysherry2910 you can with a good ceramic rod. But you’re better off bringing back that original blade profile. It wasn’t a quick task either.
I find these videos to be highly useful and educational.
I like the curve you put on that blade. This is the best and clearest beveling and sharpening video that I have seen on the internet!
That defeats the whole entire purpose of a V-Edge scandi grind. It would be very dull if he left it like that.
Nice work.
That's why I prefer convex blades, maybe sounds counterintuitive but I find them easier to sharpen and conserve their geometry. Even to the kitchen knives (standard soft inox) I apply a small convex grind ensuring less metal is removed while conserving their cutting characteristics.
Kyle, you are doing a great job! You take the time to cover all the details for proper sharpening. I applied you training with great results. Many thanks my friend! Cheers from over the pond/ good old Germany! Best
Thats wonderful news friend! Thanks for watching from all the way over in Germany!
Man you made it better than a new one. I like the shape of Companion with less belly. Always enjoy your videos 🔪
I have only watched a couple of your videos so far--the anniversary knife repair series and now this one--but I have to take my hat off to you sir!!! You are a brilliant teacher!
I genuinely think I have picked up some tips already from what you have said in these uploads, plus you hugely demystify the whole process. There is so much... rubbish... talked about anything to do with knives. Some of the YT creators who cover this handicraft make it look like magic, something completely beyond ordinary mortals. Instead the practicality, and common sense you demonstrate is worth so much _more_ to the layman, those who are just getting interested in sharpening or even all-out knife making at home.
Cannot wait for the next video!!!
Have just started following your channel and your instructions are very easily understood…..well I guess you can teach an old dog new tricks….thanks Kyle.
Thanks very much for this. I've put a nick in the edge of my Mora so looked up videos on how to restore/sharpen it. This is very helpful indeed and encouraging for the inexperienced like me.. All the best from England.
How big was the nick? I once had a Mora basic come to me with a very small chip in the edge. It was just barely big enough to see with the eye, but I could feel it easy with my thumbnail. I decided NOT to reprofile it, because the tiny chip really didn't affect its function. Besides, a small nick will just disappear after a few sharpenings anyways. I'd suggest just normal strop and regular maintenance, unless the nick is really in the way.
@@Danielson1818 It's about the same as the one you describe. The knife still functions fine. I'll do as you suggest. Thanks for the advice. Guess I was being a bit OCD about it.
@@laurieharper1526 No worries. I'm the biggest overthinker. Its both a blessing and curse, I know. The great part is you are in full control, and scandi grind knives tend to be easier to shape and modify than most.
Just lovely.. ..I could watch these forever. Such a sense of accomplishment. Loved it Kyle ! Such a beautiful end result. Excellent work brother 👏 👍
Thank you Chris!
I learned something here. Thanks! Got my new Mora Bushcraft black. Haven't gone dull yet. But I'll try these techniques when the time comes to re-sharpen it.
Love your expertise. Just ordered this knife. I enjoy watching your technique and before I need to resharpen it,it looks like I need your stones. Just subscribed!
Hey Kyle, I just received a package from Amazon with a beginner whetstone kit for trying to sharpen my pocket knife. So glad I found your RUclips channel it really helped me get through my first sharpen. It ain't pretty but I did get it pretty sharp. Practice, practice, practice
Great tuition mate. Thank you for sharing.
Fantastic! I wish I would have discovered you sooner. Great info, Great Channel
I struggle a little with the belly of scandi ground blades. I think the angle is a lot steeper at the belly and tip than on the straights of the bevel. could you share in your video some close ups especially on the belly and tip? and on both sides of the knife....thank you. Love your narration and videos btw
Very well done tutorial Kyle. I haven't take the leap to free hand yet but at least I'll have a good basic knowledge. Thankyou.
I think it's time, Jim! Thanks for watching!
@@kyle_noseworthy right now I'm enjoying my Worksharp precision sharpener so it may be awhile before I make the leap. What do you think of those expensive Russian diamond impregnated stones ( the name escapes me but Jared at Neeves knives uses them )?
@@jimsheppard910 I don't have any experience with them, Jim!
Very Pleased With Your Tips, Thanks Kyle . Loving My Custom Tuck ! ATB T God Bless
just mesmerising to watch, I love your passion for your work!
Thank you very much!
I love how you always encourage safety. I see too many guys just ignore safety because it isn't "manly" No man can withstand metal to the eyes!
I have had my share of 'accidents'. I am NOT interested in having any more. No thank you!
Superman can!!
Great video again mate!
I was thinking you almost need a nozzle on the end of you hose so you can just grab the end and squeeze the handle instead of having to reach up and turn the valve every time.
Just a thought I had to save you a bit of time 😊
Excellent job saving the bushcraft Mora knife that the customer destroyed the cutting edge. Looks like a brand new Mora knife out of the package. Love the channel
I wish I knew someone like you, who knows how to re profile knives.
I have an ESEE 4 that has been reliable for years. I once accidentally hit it with a Junglas. There’s now a nick in both knives.
I sharpen the small one on a turn box.
It kinda works, but I know my edge is not good at all.
Keeping those bevels that clean and even on a belt grinder is tooough man. I’m getting better every time I do it but seeing guys like you do it reminds me how far I have to go. I’ll get there tho
I’m learning to sharpen now I have been just getting into it. I have 4000, 1000, 400 and strop with compound
Always a pleasure watching a true craftsman.
Take care and GOD bless
Thanks so much Clinton!
Hey Kyle, I just ordered me a Spyderco Delica that’ll be here Friday. Also, I was happy to sharpen my Uncles bone handle and brass rivet Solingen Frost knife he gave me right before he passed away. Great video brother. 👍🏼
Absolutely beautiful work.
I am late to the game so to speak but watching you polish the edges in I ha e a question. By not keeping up with the strokes are you not going to have an un even edge down the length of the edge? When I am using these expensive stones I always try to make sure that whatever I do in one side I do on the other. I keep all moras perfectly sharp. I have one that is a display knife and the scandi has a mirror reflection. Literally you can see yourself crystal clear. You make sharpening knives look easy but it took me over 25 years to really become a master knife sharpener. Love your channel and how you explain everything.
Thanks for an excellent tutorial on what kind of craftsmanship, time & materials it takes to approximate a factory edge.
Horrible how that guy ruined that Mora. My favorite bush tool is the Bushcraft Black. Super easy to sharpen and take care of.
I just had to subscribe. In two videos I have learned many of the errors I have been making.
Wow!Amazing what you do with this knife!Its a pleasure to watch you sharpening!Have a nice week!🗡👍
You sir are a knife whisperer indeed. Enjoyed the content as always. Cheers from sunny Florida.
thank you Jason! It's sunny here today as well, but not likely as warm as where you are!
I watch your show all the time. I enjoy watching .I have knives that need sharpening. What are the name of the water stones that you use?
I enjoy the content 💯, this was hard to swallow that knife is a $75 knife brand knew and I know your time spent on it is well beyond that. Again love the content
Excellent restoring of that Mora.
It's my favorite.
I have had many more costly knives. Bark River, Becker , ESEE etc.
The Mora is what I like best.
Your skill with stones is truly amazing Kyle.
Thank you Corey!
NP Kyle. Hope things are going well. Snowing here this morning.
Nice job on reworking that Morakniv! I have one that I really need to send you for the same service.
unbelievable tks for the video kyle that knife looks great. cant wait for the next one
Thanks Gregg!
I am still waiting for the shapton 1000 and the 320 here in the uk should be in about 1 week now, thanks for another good video, I must say what a great job you did with the sanding belt which was spot on , not a thing you can master in 5 minutes, in fact many of us would do serious damage with that piece of equipment. Cheers Kyle
Well done my friend! You are a man with many talents.
Thank you Andrew!
How can I get you to fix mine now? Mine is not quite in the same shape but it has a double bevel on it now and I want it back to that scandi grind and to look like this one.
fantastic content Kyle Noseworthy. I smashed that thumbs up on your video. Continue to keep up the really good work.
Thanks dude! I appreciate it!
Thank you very much for your great explanations!
That is a lot of love for a more fairly priced knife. Mora is a fantastic brand and very fairly priced.
Kyle's sharpening and repair service likely cost as much as the Mora Bushcraft Black cost...
But if that was a special knife for someone... Worth fixing up and keep on using it.
@@jasonjulian1 yes
Great info kyle, hope you have had a good Easter.
I love it when the diagrams come out, I know we're about to enter knife nut world 😂. Great job!
Haha Geekin' it out!!
what do you call that thing that you clean your stones with? i use ceramic rods and i cant seem to get them clean after using them. thank you
we use the standard mora as a working knife at work. And after we have been using them for maybe one or two weeks we throw them away and take a new one. Its probably the same steel just another handle.
I would like to buy that pile.
@@robertfandel9442 The shipping are to expensive from Sweden. Fortunly we dont pay our own tools here.
I appreciate the quality of the Naniwa Nagura but I’m having better luck using a small fine diamond stone (3” x 1”) as a “diamond Nagura”. I particularly like that it doesn’t leave any residue on the stone like the Naniwa does when creating a slurry. Thanks for another quality and informative video.
If it works, I won't knock it, Warren! Thanks for watching!
What grit of naniwa nagura are you using for cleaning up the stones?
Man..i have fixed so many knives that has been much moore damaged..
Yes this one isn't a razor but its unlikely the worst one that us knife-users have seen.
BUT..but i have to say that you do a GREAT work..as always😊
I like the 320 Shapton but I find a lil too thirsty to be splash and go. You can kinda see it in your video, after a but the water gets absorbed too fast. I like to splash it a few times in a sink, let it drink up and splash some more and after a bit the water stays on the surface.
That's why the 1,000 Shapton is one of my favorite stones. It's truly splash and go and its rough enough(it's closer to 800-900 than 1,000 in micron size) for most jobs(I only use 320 for big chips and 120 for reprofile) and it leaves a nice enough finish and the edge still has some good bite to it. I might do a few swipes on the 2,000 but for a utility edge its good enough. If you want to make it look better then I start going up grits.
Nicely done Kyle
my dad sharpens his knives ON the corner 😭 makes me happy seeing someone treat their stones with respect
Looks like a pull through carbide sharpener was used to me. Then tried to clean it up.
I’ve recently purchased a Gerber prodigy, love the knife , but not a fan of the steep profile , would it be cost prohibitive
To get you to Re profile for me so it would be less like an axe , and more like a good cutting utensil?
About what would it cost ? Thanks buddy
So you mind if i ask what the scope is? It seems to have good clarity .
Learning this concept is one of the biggest things in knife sharpening. You can get a useable edge with any stone as long as you keep an even grind. As soon as you screw it up, not even the best stone can save you, but with a perfect grind, even a garden rock can make a useable edge.
Hi, I would love to have your set of stones & stone leveling stone! Where can I buy them??
Great job repairing that knife. I wonder what he used to sharpen it? It looks like a pull through sharpener(never seen one used on a scandi edge before) since the scratches at the edge were parallel to the edge instead of perpendicular. Hopefully he can maintain now that its fixed. Since its just carbon steel a good strop with some compound would go a long way to maintain that edge for a while. You only need to take it to stones if it gets chipped or you really dulled it up without touching it up.
Pull through knife sharpener is fine scandi, this knife was deliberate. Don’t get me wrong I love the channel but this was a staged recovery. The knife isn’t worth the time he spent on it
Once your stones have soaked, do you leave them in water?
I’ve recently purchased a Gerber prodigy and love it , but I’m not crazy about the steep profile , would it be cost prohibitive
To get you to Re profile flatter and clean it up a bit so it would be a bit more user friendly as a camp knife ? Lol as is , it’s closer to an axe than a fine cutting implement….
I expect freight alone would be 30.00 American round trip from North Carolina , it’s a 60.00 knife new so I hesitate to
Put a great deal into it.
Based on the scratch pattern parallel with the edge and bevel pattern tapering out from the heel it definitely looks like he was using a draw-through sharpener on the knife originally.
That's what I was thinking, probably a powered one (like the worksharp) I recently spent 4-5 hours (by hand/ with stones only) repairing a bunch of knives that my friend drug thru a carbide V "sharpener" and it had literally tore chunks of steel out of the edges!
Should I put a sharpening notch on my new-ish mora 511?
I love your content. I'm just getting into sharpening proper and you have been a real inspiration!!
Great video, helped out a lot .
How do you protect the temper when working with the belt grinder? Thanks..
I have enough experience to understand how much heat is generated per pass, and to remove it as needed. I use the grinder barehanded, with my fingers close to the edge. I can feel the heat. I keep a bucket of cold water next to me for cooling, if needed.
Extremely nice collection of stones
Exactly the repair vid I’ve been looking for subscribed
Thanks Mo! Glad I could help!
Wonderful work.
Outstanding information. I'm working on acquiring some of those stones and the holder for them. Great stuff, thanks for the tips Kyle.
I've found that the Bushcraft bevel is to aggressive to begin with esp the wall of the belly. I put mine on the new Precision Adjust worksharp and I gotta say it's good for those who can't use stones.
It's not made for reprofiling so using a belt to begin that task is needed but they do have a 220 grit diamond now which is pretty wicked for simple changes.
I lifted the edge thinned it out which extended the tip just a hair . It's a very good blade now ...They make these things to be batoned through big logs ...,For me it's a silly idea , I just like a knife to be a knife.
I can baton with it just kindling no need to abuse her . Those Bushcrafter blacks looks really cool once they are polished. Also you are so right , ya gotta add that sharpening choil regardless if ya keep it stock or not it's a must .
Where do you purchase your stones again?
Absolutely the Bob Ross of knives
My wife's father is from Haiti, this man who is now in his late 80's can take a machete, or a butterknife, and sharpen it with a piece of brick, or concrete and make it have the ability to take a 1" square piece of paper and feather it into 50 slices. I mean it will be sharpened enough to shave with. These old timers got some old timer back in the day skills thats for sure.
You can use a brick and then my advice to some people was to use cardboard to strop it and maybe the frosted edge of the top of a car window (unpopular method but it's not going to hurt your window unless you do it like a crazy person 😆)
Great analysis on where to remove material. Beautiful little mini grinding tool you have there, to cut the sharpening notch. Envy. If you ever have a chance to show how to reduce a bolster (western style knives), I'd love to watch that.
I'm not sure what you mean by reducing a bolster, Dave! Could you elaborate?
@@kyle_noseworthy ---- Hi, Kyle. Very nice work you do. After sharpening a few times, trying to use a chef's knife with a bolster like one would use a santoku for dicing or mincing on a cutting board doesn't work, because the bolster hits the board. You can sharpen the edge right up to the bolster, but then the bolster is about a 3mm thickness of steel there, and will just dig a ditch in a sharpening stone. I got a Dremel moto tool little grinding wheel and ground a millimeter (1000 microns!!) of it away, so the edge of the knife at the heel made contact with the board. The rest of the bolster is still there, so it isn't a Japanese style santoku, but you can use it like one. But I didn't do a very neat-looking job grinding, and couldn't figure out what would look best. It looks like a dented bumper on a car, heh.. You did such a good job, so quickly, cutting the sharpening notch, grinding down or cutting down a bolster would be easy for you. I'm curious about how you would shape, or reshape, the bolster.
You mean the finger guard is in the way?
@@wizardofahhhs759 he means the last of the blade isn't sharpened its full blade thickness.
Learning a ton sir. Thank you so much.
Out of curiosity, what is the American view of a ”puukko” shape? Because as a Finn, Mora in it’s basic form IS the puukko that all others are judged on. I have some old ones that have a bit of taper in them but all of the modern ones, since the 90’s are completely straight.
As a pro woodworker I'd like to say you do beautiful work.
I love your sharpening videos. I learn something each time. Thanks Kyle for the instruction.
Great vid man. BTW it is not a Nagura. Nagura are used to create a slurry that you sharpen with, usually on higher finisihing grit stones. And I usually only see them on waterstones or naturals. The stone you have from Naniwa is a cleaning stnne, used to clean surfaces of clogged up stones. If you try a Naniwa Pro 3000 grit, you will be amazed how little you need to use the cleaning stone, compared to the Naniwa Superstones, also the Super are much faster to wear down than Naniwa Pro´s. Also a Nagura comes with each stone, and is the same grit as the stone, so as to not create a slurry consistent of different grits.
Most stores call this stone the 'naniwa nagura'. It is technically a 'dressing stone', but for consumer use, I will call it the name most commonly used.
Wow that was a rough edge! Great work, Kyle, and a very well done video
Why do you press so hard on the strop, is there a reason? I was always told that you want to use minimal pressure. Like the weight of your hand at most. Am I wrong?
where can u buy the stons you are useing
Is a convex edge not better or stronger than a scandi grind? Or a so called scandivex?
0:12
How did he managed that.
How did he 'sharpen' it?
Scandi's are fairly easy to sharpen...weird..
Can you explain what a sharpening notch is?
Do you have Nagura's in various grades to match the grit of the stone you are using it on?
This was soooooooooo great!
Hello Kyle, I know that you do a lot of work on Mora knives and they are good knives. However, have you ever heard of Hultafors 380020 GK Heavy Duty Knife? they look like the Moras.
I have not heard of them!
Great job once again! But being cheeky could I ask how much you would charge for that in comparison to just buying a replacement new Bushcraft black??
excellent explanation on how to
excellent job
Can you send a link to that dressing stone