A patient craftsman, not a instant gratification personality. Great teaching mode. Repetition is the mother of skill. Reminds me of the neighbor hood kid, dribbling his basketball for hours. He learned the basics if dribblung years ago. Now its all about refining his skill set where the rubber meets the road. This is a master level craftsman at his trade.
I’ve been a survival instructor in the Pacific Northwest for 30 years and this is one of the greatest sites I have seen! Especially since I carry the Mora knife as well. Thank you my new friend! Jim
at such low prices, I have 4 morakniv, and 12 opinel! 4 victorinox, I am missing a mini hatchet, because my present Sandvik is too heavy, , without breaking the bank, the Fiskars X5 will do the job, ...
As a fellow Newfoundlander and a fellow Mora owner it’s really nice to see quality local content like this. Definitely going to give this a try. Excellent work Kyle!
I've recently done the same process to my orange Mora using diamond stones(125,400,600,1000), sandpaper (2000,3000) and aluminum oxide paper (4000,8000). Finished up with leather strop. After seeing this video I will square off the back edge with a file. Thanks for the cool video!
I just did this technique to my mora and it was amazing no pressure on the blade and it will shave, now two of my buddy’s want me to do it for theirs. Thank you for the knowledge.
Hey Kyle, I owe you a beer or several! Following these instructions, I put a mirror finish and a truly razor-sharp edge on a knife for the first time in over 30 years of sharpening. I never even knew it was possible to get a knife this sharp, let alone how to set about doing it! In return for your truly excellent advice, I have some tips I learned along the way that I'd like to share: I made a series of sanding blocks by cutting 9" lengths from an old 2 x 1" timber I had in the workshop. I didn't have any spray glue, so I fixed the sandpaper sheets to the blocks with double sided carpet tape, and that worked fine. For the coarser grits (80 and 120), I used old sanding belts from my belt sander - these are made from really tough emery cloth, and they still have lots of life left in them after they are past their best for wood sanding. You can remove the sawdust from them with a wire brush, and they worked like a charm to quickly re-profile my knife edges before the final honing and stropping. And all these blocks cost me was a few feet of carpet tape! I also put insulating tape on the flat sides of the blade to stop them getting scratched while I worked on the bevels - I'm sure this isn't necessary for a pro like you, but for a novice it seemed like a smart idea. It also acts as a guide - if you see bits of tape on the sandpaper, you know that your angle needs reducing. You really helped me out, so I hope some other people might find these tips useful.
Hey bud, thanks so much for the great comment. I don't drink alcohol, but I'd certain enjoy a coffee something, or even a glass of pepsi! :-) Glad you enjoyed the video my friend. Your information here is great as well, and I use most of what you mentioned here, in other projects. Another idea: for recurves on knives, hook/ bowl knives, gouges, etc., wrap your sandpaper around a wooden dowel. I keep a few different sized dowels around for different radius' recurves :-)
Well done. My Mora 2000 came with a rounded spine so I followed your technique and now it throws sparks like a flamethrower. Thank you for sharing this with us.
My mora robust came sharp enough to split hairs with with no issue. Everyone else I’ve heard from says the same. Not sure why yours would be more dull. I have had to redo the edge due to abusing it once or twice but it’s been easy as pie with the Scandi grind. I’m just glad you didn’t add a microbevel like I’ve seen some people do. Hurts me every time I see someone do that.
My Newfie wife and I enjoyed your videos over coffee this morning from the Carolinas! I’m retired from the military, in fact working on a 3rd retirement, and enjoying working at a local sporting goods store (camping & knife dept). In short, we enjoyed your videos and I look forward to watching more!
My Grandmother taught me how to sharpen my knife (then the contents of her kitchen drawer), using wet 'n dry sandpaper only. It's a lesson i still benefit from to this day. If you are a young, up and coming knife collector/addict, learn freehand sharpening as early in your life as possible.
Over a month ago I started looking into better sharpening and I had no idea of what a science it is. There are so many methods people use. I guess as long as they receive sharp blades, I can't be all bad. Although, a person can get a sharp blade that does not last long because they finished it off incorrectly, so it's a success but short-lived. Today I'll be getting my HD Carbon Mora. It will be my first scandi knife. I don't want to be a knife collector but have the various knives I "need" for various occasions. Plus my needs have changed from the past. I have a few big heavy duty survival knives but in all my years of spending a lot of time in the woods I didn't take them because they were truly not practical to me. Neither was an axe, just useless. My three essentials, a good lightweight pruner, one small knife, one bigger around 4 inch knife, and a folding saw. Now my saws are even better since I have a few Silky saws. You put out so interesting info about moist sandpaper. I'm going to experiment with that, dry sandpaper, and using my regular stones. I guess if they all work nicely, go with the one that is the most enjoyable. There's a Zen to sharpening. It's funny, thinking back, my knives were sharp but I never got into the science of sharpening since they did what I needed them to do, but it's fun getting focused on real sharp.
I must say, I saw this video by mistake, I'm actually working exactly like this. But the way you've showed it and explained it made me watched it twice and share this to couple of friends who asked me to teach them! Great job man! 👏 👍 ❤
Four years later just bought the same knife as a starter after doing some research. I will be sharpening my knife per your instructions and hope to get it somewhat close to what you did with this one. Really impressive! Thank you.
Not sure what you are getting for a Mora, but I have 6 and every one was scalpel-sharp out of the box. And a true Scandi grind (and all my Moras came with true scandis) has no "micro-bevel". Maybe you need a new knife supplier. You shouldn't have to sharpen a new Mora. Check to see if you are getting counterfeits.
I just got my second Mora. This one is the HD, high carbon olive green model. I ground the back spine to a perfect 90 degrees for two reasons. 1. Flint Steel, starting fires, because it's high carbon. 2. Back spine Is ground at 90 degrees and will shave your thumb nail. I worked and worked at the cutting edge until it will literally shave the hair off your arm.!!!!!!!! You do good work. ALL BY HAND PEOPLE.
Why not just carry some matches. All you roughing it guys seem to feel you need a ferro rod, a magnifying glass, or a stick and board with a piece of cord. Matches always work.
When I'm putting a perfectly square edge on my chisels, I use a 90 degree block of hardwood to maintain the squareness. Works a treat and gets rid of one variable.
I use that same method when adjusting the height of acoustic guitar bridges. If the bottom of the bridge is not totally square along its whole length, it will not transmit vibrations to a piezo pickup properly.
I love moras, I keep one in my truck, one in my toolbox at work, and one here at the house. I don't mess with the mora's bevel much, but I'll use it for a reference and lift just a hair off the bevel to hone, and finish with a 20" long 3/8" chrome extension used like a sharpening steel. People call my stuff "stupid sharp", and I am a member of the bald-forearm club. I find the honing process to be very relaxing, and I've learned a couple of things watching you do it too.
Kyle,,..You need to be discovered and have your own TV show,You have a Talent and a Presence....love the smile on your face at the end slicing through that paper..Thank You!!
This is exactly what I'm trying to do with my Eka Swede 10 at the moment. Started today with my 400 grid wetstone, but didn't get far. Now I'm gonna switch to 80 grid paper. Very nice video! Thank you for that!
I just recently bought a few Mora's to practice with because I pretty much stink at sharpening knives. I also bought a set a lighted magnifying glasses, that sure helped me see what others talk about seeing. Thank you for your awesome videos
Thanks for the great lesson, about to get a Mora companion HD,wanted to start off with a cheaper knife to learn how to use it and sharpen it properly and not worry too much about destroying an expensive knife blade.
Great video. I had first thought my moras scandi grind was a good factory bevel. The first time i sharpened i realized there was a slight convex. I haven't gotten around to grinding it down. Glad I saw this first. A lot of good tips.
Great video! Perfect for me - I just bought 7 Mora Companions (all for less than $100) to give to family and friends. I’m going to sharpen them all using your method! Brilliant!
I agree on the spine for sure. But my Moras have always come shaving sharp. But where is the fine line between the sharpness that is useful and ultra crazy mega sharp? I do not mind attaining that level of sharpening ability but that is what kitchen knives are supposed to be. Out of the box Moras are extremely good for bushcraft work. Never had a dull one yet.
Kyle I have been sharpening everything from axes to high end knives for decades. By far this method is so great to use . Love stones equally well. Great Vid . Keep it coming
Great timing, my Mora arrives tomorrow and I need the practice on the stones! This is basically exactly what I was planning on doing (after watching all your other sharpening videos, I love your sharpening videos!) the problem is I'm just not good at it yet, so I literally got the Mora as a practice knife for these techniques before I treat myself to a nicer Bark River, I'd hate to practice my sharpening skills on that!
Be aware...With a few exceptions, Bark River knives have convex grinds. It takes skill and patience to shape or re-profile a convex grind to a proper edge the likes Bark River knives have. Use your less expensive Moras to learn and hone your skills before venturing on an expensive Bark River...
@@kyle_noseworthy Haloo :-) Im sorry iam czech. Works translate for mee write. Nože Mora mají scandi výbrus, ten se brousí scela jinak než ostatní výbrusi. Scandi výbrus se brou sí jednoduše protože stačí položit "velkou fasetu" na kámen a brousit. Ostatní nože mají fasetu, kde netrefíte úhel a musíte na to mít nějaký nástroj. Convex se brousí na něčem měkém, jako třeba podložka pod počítačovou myš. Zá věr: Scandi výbrus Mora je jednoduché na broušení, ale nenaučíte se na něm brousi nože s jiným výbrusem. Haloo from Czech republic :-)
My Mora loves this exact procedure. When I move up to 400 and above I use the black paper and drizzle some very light oil on. It helps. The scandi edge is my favorite edge and if you keep it sharp it is a joy to use. I’ve used mine in the kitchen for years.
finally.....I sharpening video I followed and actually had some success. likely due to the fact scandi is a bit easier to sharpen than other grinds, however had I not seen this vid, I wouldn't have known the technique and cocked it up as I usually do. thanks for sharing. my mora arrived this afternoon and after a little time in the garage its actually sharp (was totally blunt on arrival) and throws a shower of sparks!
While you were working on the 400 grit paper, I noticed I got one of those ASMR tingles up my neck. Something about your narration with the sound of the knife being worked on is just perfect. Great video through and through.
Emory cloth works great too...advantage to emory cloth if you simply clamp the ends of it on a piece of straight wood or steel or even glass ....great vid
Say Heah Kevin, Last weekend I took my 3V Skookum Bush Tool and teamed it with my Ka-Bar Johnson Adventure Parangatang. Normally I team it with my 2Hawks Double Bit Hatchet. But the weather was very warm and the brambles are rough. Anyhow there is plenty of smalls for fire. But the Parangatang is good to chop and baton with and a great clearing Summer Long Knife. I also brought my Agawa Canyon 21 Boreal Saw in the Crazy Horse Scabbard with a extra Aggressive saw blade. I also brought my Gerber Multi Tool which I used to pull off the hot pots off the fire. I also brought my C's in my Kodiak Gearsling. Today I basically used the same set-up except I substituted for my Cold Steel SISU. It sort of reminds me of my Mora 510 and my Class #1 blade profile. It does have a rounded spine and I left it alone. I use a sticker regardless. But my C. S. SISU performs Fantastically, with the Johnson Adventure Parangatang compliment eachother Greatly. Yeah, Alot don't like the C. S. SISU and complain about its price knocking the knife and comparing it to a Mora in its ability. For me even though I can't afford a Bugatti. I don't knock the car. That's why I believe the ones that knock it DON'T own one. To me it's like driving a Vet instead of a Focus. No offense Ford Country, you make a great car. But you know what I mean. Infact I put a Casstrom Dangler Extention Caribiner on the sheath and I love it. Recently, I got on a small knife kick only using my knife when needed to cut otherwise I use my natural ability to Bush Craft. But in warm weather in some of the areas I go to a Sumner Long Knife is necessary. But like I said I also like using my 2Hawks Double Bit Hatchet. A perfect Combo too. I do practice staring fires with my Ferro Rod's, but I smoke cigars so I use my Zippo lighter alot. Even if your out of fluid, the cotton in the Zippo Lighter makes a great Firestarter. But instead of putting a 90° Edge or Card Edge on the spine of my rounded spine SISU which makes a stronger blade. I usually have my Multi Tool that has enough tools on it to use as a sharp spine on my knife. I like to come Aparro.,,. p
I agree, sandpaper can make a good sharpening tool if you have a flat surface to put it on. A lot of sharpening stones use the same alum oxide abrasive anyway.
Will a blade that is "Razor Sharp" lose its edge faster because it is so very thin? Isn't there a good balance between strength and sharpness, particularly when using the blade for woodworking/bushcraft?
I watched this entire thing, loved it. But what are you gonna do with such a delicate edge in the woods? As soon as it touches wood it, you'll be back on the 400 grit sandpaper right?
I use my mora companion heavy duty at work daily. I've brought it home this weekend for a resharpen (back to razor), after a good month of ABUSE ! I'm only doing it because I feel that I owe it the love ! It's not shaving sharp, but it is still performing well. But I have to be honest, and admit that it was performing better. I sharpen it on whetstones, I sharpen my axe with wet and dry paper. I always found wet n dry was best for a lentel edge, and the stones for flat. But having watched this video, I think I'll have a go at paper on my mora, I'll just need to find a super flat surface... But to the point of this thread, the fine edge REALY does hold up very well, it always surprises me what it can take. Sooo much better than any other knife I've ever owned. And some of those cost a LOT more ! (The price of this knife is great too, I'll beat it up, and use it with no regets. Just how a useful knife should be ! ).
even my basic 511 grabs on my fingernail in the slide test and it shaves armhair. Pretty much what i would consider work sharp. The spine is forged ugly though, not only round but rough form what i assume are forge marks. It's however more comfortable to work with, only downside is that you can't use a firesteel with it.
Vicent Yi I bought 10 when they were on sale for $8 each. None of them were sharp. Hit them on my wet stone for a few minutes and we're extremely sharp. So even if they're not sharp it's very easy to sharpen a mora.
Mora companion blades are like most of their tradesman utility knives, serviceable from the factory, the Mora kansbol and eldris are aimed more towards bushcraft,,, even my 749 came arm shaving sharp.
I have only had companions. 3 total. 1 carbon and 2 stainless. NONE of them were very sharp. I wonder if your idea of "razor sharp" is the same as mine?
Drawn to watch because my son's name is Kyle, there isn't a Kyle I've ever met that isn't super resourceful ~ subscribed because you are amazing at explaining, know exactly what you are doing and impressed me so much I know if I didn't I would be missing out on some of the best content RUclips has to offer.
Man that mirror finish is AMAZING to look at. I have just found what the difference is from cheap chinese metal blade & an actual good quality blade & i don't think i can go back. I used to think i could sharpen a blade on a cheap lil hand held sharpener but really that was just tearing the blade up so i think ill use ur method & see what results i get. Thanks for the video 👌🇺🇲
This is only the second video of yours that I’ve watched and I’ve hit the subscribe button and plan on binge watching your channel for the rest of the evening lol I’ve always had 2 knives with me no matter what. 1 a Mora - any model (I own 12) 2 an Opinel #8 usually Both are razor sharp all the time One advantage the Opinel has is I can carry it no matter what I’m wearing and no matter where I’m going (except airports). My grandfather never went anywhere without his Opinel and he gave me my first Opinel #8 for my 8th birthday. I can pretty much do anything with those two knives. Great video and I’m looking forward to watching the rest of your videos. Cheers mate and happy trails
My Mora Heavy Duty Companion knife, came with a 27 degree edge, and was rated to baton small diameter wood. But since I do not baton wood with a knife, I took my Mora to a professional knife sharpener and had the edge re-beveled down too a 20 degree flat grind. Now its super sharp and I've very happy with it.
Would you recommend applying the whole sharpening process as shown here to a new Heavy Duty Companion (Stainless)? It's basically a Companion just with larger handle and thicker blade. I also have DMT stones from 60 to 45 to 25 and 15 micron (followed by stropping on diamond leather 9 to 6 to 1 micron) which I could use but I might as well just try sand paper.
Hey dude. Love the channel. I've recently abandoned my lanky stuff and have moved to stones and hones and man what a difference. I love sharpening and learning so thanks for the vids.
Blade ‘Sharpness’ is always a matter of the users opinion. I can slice paper with a blade fresh off the grinder Sooo, that’s Not a test to rely on! Advice: Sharpen Your Blades To Your Own Specs. To Be Satisfied. uncle Fudd
He would have gotten that same result by just stropping the original scandi grind, I got a Mora Companion (orange) carbon blade and it was shaving sharp out of the box, a quick strop and I could split hairs with it.
Came across this vid by accident. Fascinating. I am not a knife person, just an engineer. Re square back for ferro rod. How about using a square diamond file to ' castellate' the profile. Just square notches. This would give you protected square edges for ferro rods. And you could still use your knife to split logs by hammering it on the spine with a log.
Glad you enjoyed the vid! The idea to castellate the spine wouldn't work well on a ferro rod. It would remove far too much material, gouging the rod instead of creating a clean spark.
Hey Kyle, I've been sharpening my knives for a few years now and I have never managed to get that mirror polish that you do on your scandi ground knives. I use similar grit stones to yours, albeit worse quality, but they are still 1000 to 6000. I was wondering how long does it usually take you to get that mirror shine and if there are any techniques to help me achieve it? Also I noticed you used sand paper in this video, would that be an easier alternative method to get a polished edge? Thanks.
Hey! It really doesn't take long at all! I can take a knife from super coarse, to a lovely polish, in 20 minutes, no problem. You must continue working with a single grit, until you have removed all scratches from the previous grit. I find that a 2000 grit is plenty to look super shiny! Sandpaper might be a little easier, as it is soft, and follows the curves and crevices!
I have a buck 110 automatic, I just polished it up a little bit after the factory now I have no hair left on my arms, because of course, every time you show somebody your new automatic you have to take another patch of hair off your arm right
Well if Wayne is impressed, that is good enough for me. New Mora HD arriving this week, glad I found this video, and your channel Kyle. Cheers from Cape Breton.
Every mora I have ever bought I've been able to shave my face with straight from the factory. I do live in sweden so it might be a difference but that one was bad...
For a mora factory edge, if you need to make it sharper with sand papers, starting grit is 2000 or 3000, then you can go upper if you need so. Believe me no courser than 2000 is needed as starting point. And you did great stropping. Good luck. Keep it up.
It was sharp already and tried your best to get the knife to rip the paper. Not a fair test, i get that it wasnt like "you" like it but I think you were a bit unfair to Mora.
Thanks for the tip! I wanted to buy the companion bc of price but didn’t bc the company video said it was not for striking use. Now I will give it a try with the modifications you suggested. Thanks again.
Very unusual for a mora to not come shaving sharp out the box. The bevel can tend to look a bit roughly ‘machined’ though, I like the polished look you ended up with.
@@commonsense7787 Your name decieves us. You have no common sense! So saying Swedes are dumbass feminised cucked people isnt racist?? How about No Fucking sense at all!!
![Are MORA Edges Terrible? - [ NEW MORA KANSBOL ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/J9eTU6vSZNU/mqdefault.jpg)
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How much you charge to sharpen a mora
Very good idea to put your PayPal. You basically taught a class. Good investment. Honor System. Respect
A good tip for this is to put painter's tape on the work table, then glue your sand paper to the tape. No cleanup required!
Your a human being who's model needs to be considered for mass production sir!!!
This comment changed my life.
That's only shows my low creativity
What a great tip!
Thanks bro
A patient craftsman, not a instant gratification personality. Great teaching mode. Repetition is the mother of skill. Reminds me of the neighbor hood kid, dribbling his basketball for hours. He learned the basics if dribblung years ago. Now its all about refining his skill set where the rubber meets the road. This is a master level craftsman at his trade.
I’ve been a survival instructor in the Pacific Northwest for 30 years and this is one of the greatest sites I have seen! Especially since I carry the Mora knife as well. Thank you my new friend! Jim
at such low prices, I have 4 morakniv, and 12 opinel! 4 victorinox, I am missing a mini hatchet, because my present Sandvik is too heavy, , without breaking the bank, the Fiskars X5 will do the job, ...
@@cybermees Fiskers hatchets are great hatchets. Don't let the price fool you.
As a fellow Newfoundlander and a fellow Mora owner it’s really nice to see quality local content like this. Definitely going to give this a try. Excellent work Kyle!
I've recently done the same process to my orange Mora using diamond stones(125,400,600,1000), sandpaper (2000,3000) and aluminum oxide paper (4000,8000). Finished up with leather strop. After seeing this video I will square off the back edge with a file. Thanks for the cool video!
I just did this technique to my mora and it was amazing no pressure on the blade and it will shave, now two of my buddy’s want me to do it for theirs. Thank you for the knowledge.
Hey Kyle, I owe you a beer or several! Following these instructions, I put a mirror finish and a truly razor-sharp edge on a knife for the first time in over 30 years of sharpening. I never even knew it was possible to get a knife this sharp, let alone how to set about doing it! In return for your truly excellent advice, I have some tips I learned along the way that I'd like to share:
I made a series of sanding blocks by cutting 9" lengths from an old 2 x 1" timber I had in the workshop. I didn't have any spray glue, so I fixed the sandpaper sheets to the blocks with double sided carpet tape, and that worked fine.
For the coarser grits (80 and 120), I used old sanding belts from my belt sander - these are made from really tough emery cloth, and they still have lots of life left in them after they are past their best for wood sanding. You can remove the sawdust from them with a wire brush, and they worked like a charm to quickly re-profile my knife edges before the final honing and stropping. And all these blocks cost me was a few feet of carpet tape!
I also put insulating tape on the flat sides of the blade to stop them getting scratched while I worked on the bevels - I'm sure this isn't necessary for a pro like you, but for a novice it seemed like a smart idea. It also acts as a guide - if you see bits of tape on the sandpaper, you know that your angle needs reducing.
You really helped me out, so I hope some other people might find these tips useful.
Hey bud, thanks so much for the great comment. I don't drink alcohol, but I'd certain enjoy a coffee something, or even a glass of pepsi! :-) Glad you enjoyed the video my friend. Your information here is great as well, and I use most of what you mentioned here, in other projects.
Another idea: for recurves on knives, hook/ bowl knives, gouges, etc., wrap your sandpaper around a wooden dowel. I keep a few different sized dowels around for different radius' recurves :-)
He has his PayPal at the top. Nice tips with tape btw. I was worried about scratching too
Well done. My Mora 2000 came with a rounded spine so I followed your technique and now it throws sparks like a flamethrower. Thank you for sharing this with us.
My mora robust came sharp enough to split hairs with with no issue. Everyone else I’ve heard from says the same. Not sure why yours would be more dull. I have had to redo the edge due to abusing it once or twice but it’s been easy as pie with the Scandi grind. I’m just glad you didn’t add a microbevel like I’ve seen some people do. Hurts me every time I see someone do that.
I've never had a Mora that wasn't savagely sharp from the factory.
My Newfie wife and I enjoyed your videos over coffee this morning from the Carolinas! I’m retired from the military, in fact working on a 3rd retirement, and enjoying working at a local sporting goods store (camping & knife dept). In short, we enjoyed your videos and I look forward to watching more!
My Grandmother taught me how to sharpen my knife (then the contents of her kitchen drawer), using wet 'n dry sandpaper only. It's a lesson i still benefit from to this day. If you are a young, up and coming knife collector/addict, learn freehand sharpening as early in your life as possible.
Over a month ago I started looking into better sharpening and I had no idea of what a science it is. There are so many methods people use. I guess as long as they receive sharp blades, I can't be all bad. Although, a person can get a sharp blade that does not last long because they finished it off incorrectly, so it's a success but short-lived.
Today I'll be getting my HD Carbon Mora. It will be my first scandi knife. I don't want to be a knife collector but have the various knives I "need" for various occasions. Plus my needs have changed from the past. I have a few big heavy duty survival knives but in all my years of spending a lot of time in the woods I didn't take them because they were truly not practical to me. Neither was an axe, just useless. My three essentials, a good lightweight pruner, one small knife, one bigger around 4 inch knife, and a folding saw. Now my saws are even better since I have a few Silky saws.
You put out so interesting info about moist sandpaper. I'm going to experiment with that, dry sandpaper, and using my regular stones. I guess if they all work nicely, go with the one that is the most enjoyable. There's a Zen to sharpening. It's funny, thinking back, my knives were sharp but I never got into the science of sharpening since they did what I needed them to do, but it's fun getting focused on real sharp.
I must say, I saw this video by mistake, I'm actually working exactly like this. But the way you've showed it and explained it made me watched it twice and share this to couple of friends who asked me to teach them!
Great job man! 👏 👍 ❤
Having just bought my first Mora companion, that video was just what I was looking for...thanks.
Thanks for sticking with sandpaper to show us it can be done. Beautiful work, and you speak with an accent that I can't put my finger on. Take care!
Newfoundland, Canada!
Four years later just bought the same knife as a starter after doing some research. I will be sharpening my knife per your instructions and hope to get it somewhat close to what you did with this one. Really impressive! Thank you.
give us an update bossman!
Not sure what you are getting for a Mora, but I have 6 and every one was scalpel-sharp out of the box. And a true Scandi grind (and all my Moras came with true scandis) has no "micro-bevel". Maybe you need a new knife supplier. You shouldn't have to sharpen a new Mora. Check to see if you are getting counterfeits.
I just got my second Mora. This one is the HD, high carbon olive green model. I ground the back spine to a perfect 90 degrees for two reasons. 1. Flint Steel, starting fires, because it's high carbon. 2. Back spine
Is ground at 90 degrees and will shave your thumb nail.
I worked and worked at the cutting edge until it will literally shave the hair off your arm.!!!!!!!!
You do good work.
ALL BY HAND PEOPLE.
Why not just carry some matches. All you roughing it guys seem to feel you need a ferro rod, a magnifying glass, or a stick and board with a piece of cord. Matches always work.
When I'm putting a perfectly square edge on my chisels, I use a 90 degree block of hardwood to maintain the squareness. Works a treat and gets rid of one variable.
I use that same method when adjusting the height of acoustic guitar bridges. If the bottom of the bridge is not totally square along its whole length, it will not transmit vibrations to a piezo pickup properly.
I love moras, I keep one in my truck, one in my toolbox at work, and one here at the house.
I don't mess with the mora's bevel much, but I'll use it for a reference and lift just a hair off the bevel to hone, and finish with a 20" long 3/8" chrome extension used like a sharpening steel. People call my stuff "stupid sharp", and I am a member of the bald-forearm club.
I find the honing process to be very relaxing, and I've learned a couple of things watching you do it too.
This English man irish man Australian newfoundlander walked into a bar... The barman says hello kyle
great vid BTW
Dave Boo That is Awesome ❤️🤠🔪🎵
This is HILARIOUS! haha I'm just seeing this comment now, but it gave me a good chuckle. Hope you're doing well, Dave!
I heard a bit of Boston accent in there as well
@@kyle_noseworthy - Lol , I"m Welsh & easily pick up the 3 also :)
3 = newfoundland :)
Kyle,,..You need to be discovered and have your own TV show,You have a Talent and a Presence....love the smile on your face at the end slicing through that paper..Thank You!!
Came here to see if other were struggling with the crap condition of their Mora out of the box.
Found a FANTASTIC sharpening video.
Well down.
This is exactly what I'm trying to do with my Eka Swede 10 at the moment. Started today with my 400 grid wetstone, but didn't get far. Now I'm gonna switch to 80 grid paper.
Very nice video! Thank you for that!
Thanks, I just ordered my first Mora and still waiting for it to arrive. I'll have to give this a try!!!
These knives are absolutely the best for the money... Great video tutorial, Thank you!
"When the moon hits your eye
Like a big pizza pie
It's a Mora..."
Mora don't get everything it's true... but what it don't get, I can't use... so give me Mora that's what I want.
@@hansg6336 when i swim in the sea somethings nibbling on me, thats a mora
Take a Mora; unsheath it. Take a dry branch; feather it. Make some tinder with me!!
Sam,
That is so stupid it's clever....Yep, I had to hit the like button!
Bob Sullivan Hahahahahahahaha...
Me too ❤️🤠🔪
I just recently bought a few Mora's to practice with because I pretty much stink at sharpening knives. I also bought a set a lighted magnifying glasses, that sure helped me see what others talk about seeing. Thank you for your awesome videos
Thanks for the great lesson, about to get a Mora companion HD,wanted to start off with a cheaper knife to learn how to use it and sharpen it properly and not worry too much about destroying an expensive knife blade.
Nice! Fav edc!. Moras in every nook n cranny! Belts packing sharp!
Great sharpening skills Kyle. I love the mirror finish you get, great attention to detail. Thank you for making this video.
This video rocks. Thanks so much for sharing! Definitely going to sharpen my Mora's spine like this.
Great video. I had first thought my moras scandi grind was a good factory bevel. The first time i sharpened i realized there was a slight convex. I haven't gotten around to grinding it down. Glad I saw this first. A lot of good tips.
Great video! Perfect for me - I just bought 7 Mora Companions (all for less than $100) to give to family and friends. I’m going to sharpen them all using your method! Brilliant!
I agree on the spine for sure. But my Moras have always come shaving sharp. But where is the fine line between the sharpness that is useful and ultra crazy mega sharp? I do not mind attaining that level of sharpening ability but that is what kitchen knives are supposed to be. Out of the box Moras are extremely good for bushcraft work. Never had a dull one yet.
Kyle I have been sharpening everything from axes to high end knives for decades. By far this method is so great to use . Love stones equally well. Great Vid . Keep it coming
Great timing, my Mora arrives tomorrow and I need the practice on the stones! This is basically exactly what I was planning on doing (after watching all your other sharpening videos, I love your sharpening videos!) the problem is I'm just not good at it yet, so I literally got the Mora as a practice knife for these techniques before I treat myself to a nicer Bark River, I'd hate to practice my sharpening skills on that!
The mora is a fantastic knife to practice on. Soft steel. Easy wearing. and the scandi gives help on angles while you're just learning. Enjoy!
Be aware...With a few exceptions, Bark River knives have convex grinds. It takes skill and patience to shape or re-profile a convex grind to a proper edge the likes Bark River knives have. Use your less expensive Moras to learn and hone your skills before venturing on an expensive Bark River...
@@kyle_noseworthy Haloo :-) Im sorry iam czech. Works translate for mee write. Nože Mora mají scandi výbrus, ten se brousí scela jinak než ostatní výbrusi. Scandi výbrus se brou sí jednoduše protože stačí položit "velkou fasetu" na kámen a brousit. Ostatní nože mají fasetu, kde netrefíte úhel a musíte na to mít nějaký nástroj. Convex se brousí na něčem měkém, jako třeba podložka pod počítačovou myš. Zá věr: Scandi výbrus Mora je jednoduché na broušení, ale nenaučíte se na něm brousi nože s jiným výbrusem. Haloo from Czech republic :-)
All I knew growing up in Scandinavia was that Scandi grind. So easy to sharpen. Love it.
Thank you . I am a total a amature at sharpening but learned more watching you and your calm voice I think I can do much better..
Good luck Michael! It's a great skill to have!
...the mark of a true craftsman is that he shares his expertise...easy to follow, easy to replicate. Thank you for the gift of your wisdom.
Amateur*
My Mora loves this exact procedure. When I move up to 400 and above I use the black paper and drizzle some very light oil on. It helps. The scandi edge is my favorite edge and if you keep it sharp it is a joy to use. I’ve used mine in the kitchen for years.
Very good tutorial. I have three moras I will be getting to this week. Thank you.
The real reward is shaving the paper :-)
Greetings from the land of Mora, Sweden
Buy a Mora blank blade, use your own favourite wood or other material for a handle. They come razor sharp.
finally.....I sharpening video I followed and actually had some success. likely due to the fact scandi is a bit easier to sharpen than other grinds, however had I not seen this vid, I wouldn't have known the technique and cocked it up as I usually do. thanks for sharing. my mora arrived this afternoon and after a little time in the garage its actually sharp (was totally blunt on arrival) and throws a shower of sparks!
Wonderful!
You've a real talent for teaching things, outstanding!
While you were working on the 400 grit paper, I noticed I got one of those ASMR tingles up my neck. Something about your narration with the sound of the knife being worked on is just perfect. Great video through and through.
Emory cloth works great too...advantage to emory cloth if you simply clamp the ends of it on a piece of straight wood or steel or even glass ....great vid
Say Heah Kevin, Last weekend I took my 3V Skookum Bush Tool and teamed it with my Ka-Bar Johnson Adventure Parangatang. Normally I team it with my 2Hawks Double Bit Hatchet. But the weather was very warm and the brambles are rough. Anyhow there is plenty of smalls for fire. But the Parangatang is good to chop and baton with and a great clearing Summer Long Knife. I also brought my Agawa Canyon 21 Boreal Saw in the Crazy Horse Scabbard with a extra Aggressive saw blade. I also brought my Gerber Multi Tool which I used to pull off the hot pots off the fire. I also brought my C's in my Kodiak Gearsling. Today I basically used the same set-up except I substituted for my Cold Steel SISU. It sort of reminds me of my Mora 510 and my Class #1 blade profile. It does have a rounded spine and I left it alone. I use a sticker regardless. But my C. S. SISU performs Fantastically, with the Johnson Adventure Parangatang compliment eachother Greatly. Yeah, Alot don't like the C. S. SISU and complain about its price knocking the knife and comparing it to a Mora in its ability. For me even though I can't afford a Bugatti. I don't knock the car. That's why I believe the ones that knock it DON'T own one. To me it's like driving a Vet instead of a Focus. No offense Ford Country, you make a great car. But you know what I mean. Infact I put a Casstrom Dangler Extention Caribiner on the sheath and I love it. Recently, I got on a small knife kick only using my knife when needed to cut otherwise I use my natural ability to Bush Craft. But in warm weather in some of the areas I go to a Sumner Long Knife is necessary. But like I said I also like using my 2Hawks Double Bit Hatchet. A perfect Combo too. I do practice staring fires with my Ferro Rod's, but I smoke cigars so I use my Zippo lighter alot. Even if your out of fluid, the cotton in the Zippo Lighter makes a great Firestarter. But instead of putting a 90° Edge or Card Edge on the spine of my rounded spine SISU which makes a stronger blade. I usually have my Multi Tool that has enough tools on it to use as a sharp spine on my knife. I like to come Aparro.,,. p
Name drop much?
I just got a mora given to for my bday and you vid showed me what I need to do for my fire steel thanks for the info
I agree, sandpaper can make a good sharpening tool if you have a flat surface to put it on. A lot of sharpening stones use the same alum oxide abrasive anyway.
I just ordered this exact knife. I’ll definitely be doing this to mine.
Oppo knife is the best knife on this planet! It’s world changing! The holy grail knife 😀
Will a blade that is "Razor Sharp" lose its edge faster because it is so very thin? Isn't there a good balance between strength and sharpness, particularly when using the blade for woodworking/bushcraft?
This has completely improved the way I sharpen my knives.
I watched this entire thing, loved it. But what are you gonna do with such a delicate edge in the woods? As soon as it touches wood it, you'll be back on the 400 grit sandpaper right?
nah, it isn't that delicate :-)
Exactly. We don't need our bushcraft knives to be so sharp that the edge rolls over when we look at it.
I use my mora companion heavy duty at work daily. I've brought it home this weekend for a resharpen (back to razor), after a good month of ABUSE !
I'm only doing it because I feel that I owe it the love ! It's not shaving sharp, but it is still performing well. But I have to be honest, and admit that it was performing better.
I sharpen it on whetstones, I sharpen my axe with wet and dry paper. I always found wet n dry was best for a lentel edge, and the stones for flat. But having watched this video, I think I'll have a go at paper on my mora, I'll just need to find a super flat surface...
But to the point of this thread, the fine edge REALY does hold up very well, it always surprises me what it can take. Sooo much better than any other knife I've ever owned. And some of those cost a LOT more ! (The price of this knife is great too, I'll beat it up, and use it with no regets. Just how a useful knife should be ! ).
Excellent tutorial. After watching this I tried it on a few of my knives and even got one of my hatchets shaving sharp
Your Mora is better than my Mora. But let's change that! Thank you.
Just bought my first Mora and want to use your advices to make it better! Greetings from Ukraine 🇺🇦!
My mora companion came razor sharp from the factory
even my basic 511 grabs on my fingernail in the slide test and it shaves armhair. Pretty much what i would consider work sharp. The spine is forged ugly though, not only round but rough form what i assume are forge marks. It's however more comfortable to work with, only downside is that you can't use a firesteel with it.
Vicent Yi I bought 10 when they were on sale for $8 each. None of them were sharp. Hit them on my wet stone for a few minutes and we're extremely sharp. So even if they're not sharp it's very easy to sharpen a mora.
I got 5 Moras and only one (my second Classic #1) came shaving sharp. None of the was unusable dull though. :)
Mora companion blades are like most of their tradesman utility knives, serviceable from the factory, the Mora kansbol and eldris are aimed more towards bushcraft,,, even my 749 came arm shaving sharp.
I have only had companions. 3 total. 1 carbon and 2 stainless. NONE of them were very sharp. I wonder if your idea of "razor sharp" is the same as mine?
This kid is great. Clear, succinct, accurate. I subscribed.
you sure put a awesome edge on that Mora,it would look awesome in a leather case.
a beginner could follow, but an expert can learn from this comprehensive production.
I have never had a Mora come to me that dull, and I own over three dozen. They are always razor, hair shaving, sharp.
You own MORE THAN 36 Mora Knives?😳
...I see a therapist in your future🤔😂
Drawn to watch because my son's name is Kyle, there isn't a Kyle I've ever met that isn't super resourceful ~ subscribed because you are amazing at explaining, know exactly what you are doing and impressed me so much I know if I didn't I would be missing out on some of the best content RUclips has to offer.
So kind, Tina. Thank you so much!
Thanks Kyle, that was most informative . Also was good to see how clean you keep your shop! I like that.
haha I try to keep it clean!
Man that mirror finish is AMAZING to look at. I have just found what the difference is from cheap chinese metal blade & an actual good quality blade & i don't think i can go back. I used to think i could sharpen a blade on a cheap lil hand held sharpener but really that was just tearing the blade up so i think ill use ur method & see what results i get. Thanks for the video 👌🇺🇲
I like mora knives. God bless you.
I recently purchased the Mora 'Heavy Duty' Companion Carbon Knife (£15). The edge was super sharp (basically, shave ready) straight out the box :)
This is only the second video of yours that I’ve watched and I’ve hit the subscribe button and plan on binge watching your channel for the rest of the evening lol
I’ve always had 2 knives with me no matter what.
1 a Mora - any model (I own 12)
2 an Opinel #8 usually
Both are razor sharp all the time
One advantage the Opinel has is I can carry it no matter what I’m wearing and no matter where I’m going (except airports).
My grandfather never went anywhere without his Opinel and he gave me my first Opinel #8 for my 8th birthday.
I can pretty much do anything with those two knives.
Great video and I’m looking forward to watching the rest of your videos.
Cheers mate and happy trails
I run the same combination as you and really value these two knives. Still on my journey to develop my sharpening skills.
Very impressive, Kyle - I'll now have to do my Mora HD Carbon following your method.
Damn, you did a great job with that knife!
My Mora Heavy Duty Companion knife, came with a 27 degree edge, and was rated to baton small diameter wood. But since I do not baton wood with a knife, I took my Mora to a professional knife sharpener and had the edge re-beveled down too a 20 degree flat grind. Now its super sharp and I've very happy with it.
Nice work! Good thinking!
What you do with a knife is phenomenal, but let me teach you how to level your jointer so it doesn't rock. haha
Hahaha I loved the video but that was bugging the hell out of me too
Thank you for this. I love the idea of using sandpaper. Wonder if I could do the same with an axe.
Top notch man...for me the strop is the key takes my edges to touch it and you’ll get cut...your on it man
Would you recommend applying the whole sharpening process as shown here to a new Heavy Duty Companion (Stainless)? It's basically a Companion just with larger handle and thicker blade.
I also have DMT stones from 60 to 45 to 25 and 15 micron (followed by stropping on diamond leather 9 to 6 to 1 micron) which I could use but I might as well just try sand paper.
Look at the satisfaction on his face at the end of the video! :)))))
Hi thanks for that, just bought a Mora Companion. Will be off to get some sandpaper tomorrow. Thanks. H
Thank you! Going to try this and have me some scary sharp knives!
Hey dude. Love the channel. I've recently abandoned my lanky stuff and have moved to stones and hones and man what a difference. I love sharpening and learning so thanks for the vids.
Blade ‘Sharpness’ is always a matter of the users opinion. I can slice paper with a blade fresh off the grinder Sooo, that’s Not a test to rely on! Advice: Sharpen Your Blades To Your Own Specs. To Be Satisfied. uncle Fudd
He would have gotten that same result by just stropping the original scandi grind, I got a Mora Companion (orange) carbon blade and it was shaving sharp out of the box, a quick strop and I could split hairs with it.
My companion hd was super sharp from the factory, only passed it over a strop a few times and it was as sharp as what you got yours.
So you went from 80 grit to 100 then 400 and finished it on 2000? Did you use anything between 400 and 2000?
Oh nevermind haha. You mentioned it at the end.
;-)
Came across this vid by accident. Fascinating. I am not a knife person, just an engineer. Re square back for ferro rod. How about using a square diamond file to ' castellate' the profile. Just square notches. This would give you protected square edges for ferro rods. And you could still use your knife to split logs by hammering it on the spine with a log.
Glad you enjoyed the vid! The idea to castellate the spine wouldn't work well on a ferro rod. It would remove far too much material, gouging the rod instead of creating a clean spark.
Hey Kyle, I've been sharpening my knives for a few years now and I have never managed to get that mirror polish that you do on your scandi ground knives. I use similar grit stones to yours, albeit worse quality, but they are still 1000 to 6000. I was wondering how long does it usually take you to get that mirror shine and if there are any techniques to help me achieve it? Also I noticed you used sand paper in this video, would that be an easier alternative method to get a polished edge? Thanks.
Hey! It really doesn't take long at all! I can take a knife from super coarse, to a lovely polish, in 20 minutes, no problem. You must continue working with a single grit, until you have removed all scratches from the previous grit. I find that a 2000 grit is plenty to look super shiny! Sandpaper might be a little easier, as it is soft, and follows the curves and crevices!
Grit on paper, vs grit on stone is two different things, and has two different effects. You will never get teh same results between the two.
I have a buck 110 automatic, I just polished it up a little bit after the factory now I have no hair left on my arms, because of course, every time you show somebody your new automatic you have to take another patch of hair off your arm right
Well done man, some very good tips. ATB dude.
Thanks Wayne! I appreciate it!
Well if Wayne is impressed, that is good enough for me. New Mora HD arriving this week, glad I found this video, and your channel Kyle. Cheers from Cape Breton.
Kyle your process worked great on a custom blade that needed a serious re-profiling . Paper, glass and spray adhesive. Bobdiggity dude! Thanks much.
Every mora I have ever bought I've been able to shave my face with straight from the factory. I do live in sweden so it might be a difference but that one was bad...
yeah i have one of these companion models and it cuts the paper exactly like he does at the end of the video wothout any sharpening.
In some countries it’s a matter of legal requirements that knives must not be „razorsharp“ (weaponized) when mailed 🥴
Same
For a mora factory edge, if you need to make it sharper with sand papers, starting grit is 2000 or 3000, then you can go upper if you need so. Believe me no courser than 2000 is needed as starting point. And you did great stropping. Good luck. Keep it up.
"when you swim in sea, and an eel hits your knee, it's a mora" 😂
When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie that's a mora.
@@waynes4612 what does it mean?
you're one of the best youtube teachers i've ever seen
It was sharp already and tried your best to get the knife to rip the paper. Not a fair test, i get that it wasnt like "you" like it but I think you were a bit unfair to Mora.
Agreed. He is not gonna improve on the Mora factory sharpness much. Nitpicking.
Nice. I’ve never sheen one that sharp. Time to dig out my companion and have a play with some sand paper
I enjoy your videos, thank you for sharing. Noted that your joiner wobbles, would drive me crazy. Respectfully.
Thanks for the tip! I wanted to buy the companion bc of price but didn’t bc the company video said it was not for striking use. Now I will give it a try with the modifications you suggested. Thanks again.
Very unusual for a mora to not come shaving sharp out the box. The bevel can tend to look a bit roughly ‘machined’ though, I like the polished look you ended up with.
Kyle, thank you for this wonderful tutorial! Love my Moras!
Not to complain, but the O in Mora is pronounced more like the O in movie.
Source, i'm swedish^^
@Jihadi Justine Turdeau there is no room in the world for a racist pigs just go away!
@@gregpenny4384 He has a point. Nothing racist was said.
@@commonsense7787 Your name decieves us. You have no common sense! So saying Swedes are dumbass feminised cucked people isnt racist?? How about No Fucking sense at all!!
MURA?
Depressing, trolls everywhere
Excellent instructions. I plan on having a few Moras and want to know how to sharpen them properly.