I have this same lathe, but mine had the Harbor Freight name on it, and although it’s 20 years old, I just acquired it still in the box! Certain parts of mine were packed with that sand/grinding dust crap while others were fairly clean. I did a total disassembly and cleanup/tweaking to be safe. The cast iron lug that rides under the ways to lock down the tailstock was an incredibly poorly cast and machined piece that broke in two after several uses. I repaired it with nickel electrode, then it broke elsewhere! Grizzly’s G4000 is the same machine, so I searched their website and found the p/n and photo. That pic showed another hideously produced part, but I ordered one anyhow, and also made one on the mill. What I received was an absolutely perfect part, so well done that I didn’t even use the one I made! There is a definite difference in these similar machines depending on the company selling them! Some evidently don’t hold the Chinese producers to any kind of quality standard! Great fix Matty!
No problem with the intro, just worried your tea may go cold!. Yes, production shortcuts, and zero quantity control, makes for a good profit with customers unable to return items, or be corrected. Getting the casting sand out is a pain, but that amount is unbelievable. Anyway, nice job for remanufacturing. Alkyd red oxide paint does a fairly good job on sealing castings, and resistant to mineral oils, the Glyptal is a full gloss enamel paint, and helps oil flow where necessary, but the Red Oxide Alkyd is plenty good enough for standard machines. Does anyone else have experience in using this? Thanks for sharing Matty. Best regards from the UK. John.
Gday John, the headstock did have paint in there but not enough I’d say to glue the sand to the sides, I’m going to take the apron off again and paint the back, I’m pretty confident I got 99% of the crap off, I didn’t paint it straight away because I was to excited to see if it was going to work, it’s easy to remove so it won’t be hard to paint.....
No experience with the Glyptal but I always pressure wash and abrade the insides of iron castings and then apply 2 coats of 2 pack etch primer. That seals all surfaces and ensures no further grit/sand gets free.
@@howardosborne8647 2 pack paint is difficult to beat, guessing historically that most paints were linseed oil based (excluding Cellulose, though they is obviously others), there were very few that were oil resistant, even less fuel resistant. I had a Royal Enfield engine as a youngster, only the bottom half, and it was painted a light grey/cream colour and found out it was to improve oil flow.
Hahahahahaha, mines all back together now mate, I didn’t go the full Monty like you have, I hope all your plans go well and safe travels, please keep in touch mate, Cheers Matty
good job Matty. I enjoyed watching it. If I remember correctly there is a paint called Glyptol that is used to seal cast iron inside engines and gear boxes. The better lathes will have it inside the gear boxes. Thanks for sharing.
Gday Terry, the new lathe is painted very nicely inside the geared head, I’m going to pull the apron off again which isn’t a big job and paint it to seal the casting, it would be nice if I can get that paint in a spray can,, cheers Matty
Hi Matty, whilst disappointing your new lathe has issues, you should feel very confident that it will last many years with those top notch repairs you have done,
Cincinatti to the rescue! Dual feed, leadscrew like the Hercus Lathe. Lubrication is an issue on your lathe lead, feedshaft, I wonder how Delrin Bushes would perform. Can't remember how Hercus is set up. My 12" lathe has separate feed shaft from the leadscrew and also runs directly in the casting but has an oil bath that I must regularly top up. I think the manufacturer should have installed bushes so they can be replaced as you have done, the right way. Good job Matty.
Gday Willem, the Cincinnati did a great job here, I think it’s was more then lubrication the did the damage, I hope the brass bushes hold up but there easy to replace if they fail, Cheers Matty
Beautiful work Matty - very impressed at the setups, the extended boring job, and the remade parts. As you said if the brass bits wallow out, it's very easy to turn a new pair of top hat bushes, the difficult bit is boring out the apron accurately. Great work!
Thanks Craig, It took some nutting out to set it up and line up the bore, thank you for the advice while I was doing this, your idea worked a treat👌🏼👌🏼
Fantastic work mate I only have a small lathe but that’s in bits at the mo new paint job upgrades and new motor upgrade great to see others looking after their machines always enjoy your videos always informative and a joy to watch all the best mate stay safe god bless
Gday, you’ll feel like you have a new machine once it’s all painted up and back together, you can do a lot with a small machine, it just takes a bit longer and being mindful of rigidity, I did some big jobs on my small lathe that really surprised myself, thanks for watching mate, cheers Matty
Worked out real nice there, Matty. If the boring job hadn't turned out good you still had another couple of alternative options by milling out the 2 iron lugs completely and screw fixing a couple of new lugs made from steel with bronze bushings in the bores. Always more than one way to skin the proverbial cat.
Gday Howard, that was one idea that ran through my small brain and I was hoping it didn’t come to that, it would certainly work and be a perfect repair....
G'Day Matty, rock solid methodology in that repair and it worked out beautifully. Yes, Chinese lathes from Hare and Forbes. I bought a small lathe and converted to a CNC, and the bearings seized up. The reason was all the sand in the Headstock. There was even a 4" nail embedded in the casting used to hold the core together and it was rubbing on the spindle. All they had done was spray paint over the sand to try and hold it in. I had Hare and Forbes purchase new Timken Bearings for me and I also had the Hearstock sand blasted at their cost to remove any other muck. You won't have those sorts of issues with your new Taiwanese Lathe, they are first class machines. Cam
Gday Cam, it all worked out well in the end but I did do a lot of time wasting triple checking myself😂, I only had one crack at this repair so I had to get it right, Hare and Forbes supplied the bearings for the head stock and I think the may have been Timkin bearings, it’s funny you say about the nail, a bloke in town here brought the same lathe as mine and had the same issues with the headstock, he also got a nail out of his, I thought he was pulling my leg until he showed me a photo, I think the Chinese factory’s need to be controlled a little better and improve the quality, cheers Matty
Good video mate. I got al51g. Full of sand and grit. And the compound slide screw has small section stripped. Brand new machine needed a serious birthday. But overall it's a good little machine
Gday David, overall there not a bad machine but there’s a few faults sadly, I ended up giving the lathe to a RUclips creator in Sydney, I did replace the headstock bearings and half nuts and cleaned out all the castings from one end to the other, I was amazed how much sand I got out of it, bloody terrible to be honest, I brought a AL960B and absolutely over the moon with it, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Good video Matty, thank you. I know that I need to pull apart my AL-320G for various reasons (I really don't want to) but I know now to pay special attention to cleaning all of the crap out of the internal cast surfaces.
Hi Marty got a bit of machinery house gear myself, I would also recommend giving the chuck on the new lathe a quick strip and clean, sad how much grit I found in mine. Great repair job.
@@MattysWorkshop Yes, that's obvuiusly the other side of that coin. You either have hard stuff that doesn't wear out but wears the other part instead, or soft stuff that wears out, but doesn't wear the other half of the thing. Wearing out the leadscrew is obviously not a "better" choice.
Gday, I really hope you don’t have the same issues, just a tip, the drive belt is quite small, it will break if you don’t use the engagement lever, start the motor first then engage the belt, you’ll know what I mean when you get it, also if you look in my videos when I had that lathe you will see I put a post under the parting tool, this made a world of difference, it’s quick and easy to make, cheers
Cheers Matt for the advice. I think one of the first things I’ll be doing is checking everything both inside and out before cranking it up. The quality control at the factory must be 💩. Artisan Makes had issues with his brand new lathe, heaps of sandy crap in the gearbox. I might show the blokes at Machinery Warehouse some of the videos and hopefully they’ll pass it onto the mob that makes these lathes.
Nice repair, I'm a fairly new subscriber and I'm loving your videos, great explanations. One suggestion I want to make, I've got some old machines I've done up and a small needle scaler works great for loose casting bits and sand. I hot mine from Harbor Freight Tools a few years back.
Gday Aaron, I’m going to keep this lathe for the kids, I’ve sold the Mars Hercules lathe so I’m back to 2 lathes now, once the kids master the small lathe I let them play on the big one....
Good repair on that one, I need to do an oil change on my lathe soon again anyway, I'll need to check again for magnetic sand in mine too . . . wasn't as bad as yours but the first oil change was gross.
Great repair. I need to do a serious repair along these lines some day on my logan. It has a worn out worm gear that will possibly need to be built from scratch
Thanks Craig, that would be some interesting channel content making a new worm gear from scratch, I haven’t got the balls to try and make anything like that yet but hopefully one day I will...
G'day Matty, I'm on the south coast NSW , nice job and very well done , I have the same lathe except is a AL50A . ( No Q/C G/box ) I also have the same problem with my lever going all the way on to the apron and hard to disengage it . ( But i know how to fix that Now ....Thanks ) when i brought the lathe the bloke said the lever for the half nut was seized , but in actual fact its the Half nut that has broke . so i go onto Hare & Forbes site and find the part saying its for AL50A 1.5 pitch and think great I'll just change it , .... woope doo ! BUT what they don't tell you that there's 2 different Threads on the lead screw ,1.5 and 2.0 , And the 2.0 is unavailable , and of course they want a restock fee if i return it . SO , here's my question ! Can I just simply change the lead screw from the 2.0 pitch one that's on it , To the 1.5 one to match this new half nut ? .... Of will it mess all the gears at the motor end ? ....Cheers ... Johnny.
Gday Johnny, where about on the coast are you, i've since given the lathe to another RUclips creator ( Peter from PGS) in Sydney, I honestly dont think changing the leadscrew will hurt anything, the only change will be the chart for the thread cutting and speeds and feeds will be different, im sure there would be a chart on line somewhere, I really dont understand how companies can charge a restocking fee when its a matter of putting a returns in the computer and sitting the part back on the shelf, thanks for watching mate, please let me know how you get on with the lead screw, Cheers
Hi Matty, A very good fixed to your old lathe and it sounds like a good idea having new and old lathe in service... I know you're super pleased with your new lathe and I don't want to rain on your parade but do you think it would be worth doing some investigation work on it to see if there is the same problem, it would be better to clean the sand out know before it does any damage. Take care Paul,,
Nice repair Matty, I was thinking the mandrel approach, or maybe machinist button to find the axis of that bore. Thanks for the DTI technique on the boring head, I've always trusted the marks on the adjuster, now I know better. Good luck with the young un's learning on the lathe, it will be nice to see them carry on your trade. Cheers!
Gday, I thought the idea of the indicator was well known but I’ve had a few people comment in the past that they have never seen this before, I find it easier to do it this way and it’s more accurate I think and it doesn’t take much longer to adjust the head, cheers Matty
Justwatch this mod video mate, looks like I'll be doing the same to mine. I think that my lead screw is slightly bent from factory and H&F never wanted to replace it plus my engagement lever is out by a 1/4 turn downwards, so I've had to remove the detent ball and move it up 1 tooth.
Gday, I glad the video is helpful, this is something we shouldn’t have to do, have you checked the casting inside the headstock, mine was full of sand and had to replace the spindle bearings as well and H&F didn’t overly care at all to be honest mate, I hope you get yours repaired, let me know how you get on, cheers
@@MattysWorkshop No. I haven't checked the spindle bearings, but I will when I get some time off. I'm thinking of following your dimensions on those bushings ready for the install to the apron. For sure I'll keep you informed on how they are.
Gday Tom, I did think about that, the bushes were a good tight fit so I decided to see how they go, I’m just a little worried about the casting being to weak if I drill and tap for a set screw..
nice save matty, Ive seen what I thought was the worst of cheap chinese quality, but that is just sad how much grit and sand was still inside of that thing. Only thing I was curious about was why was it magnetic, Ive never seen any sand that was magnetic before, so thinking it may be grinding grit or something instead somehow.
Gday Chirpy, I really didn’t explain that all that well, there was a mix of sand and grinding grit, it felt very abrasive between your fingers, hard to believe just how much there was..
Hi Matty,although yours is particularly bad it is thing that most Chinese build hobby machinery have....casting sand .I and many others had it too...Jon from Jon,s workshop warned me about this issue on my mill.But I had similar issue with my small Warco lathe.I think the universal advice would have to be...strip them done and remove all transportation grease and other muck!Quality control and some basic care is lacking not just in China but also most brands that sell them do not seem to care much.
How much would it add to the price for them to clean things before building, I recon less than what they lose by having to replace parts under warranty if you take into consideration transport as well. Its disgraceful that when you buy something from china you need to strip them down, clean and rebuild, be it a lathe, mill, chuck or dividing head, basically anything that has castings.
You think the Chinese would charge a dollar more for the lathe to cover their labor costs to clean out the bloody casting sand. Instead they cut too many corners now.
Don't you just love it when things work out... Thanks for sharing..
I certainly do Dave, I think I got lucky here mate
What a disappointment to find all that muck in the castings . Thanks for showing well done . ✅
It was Brain especially the price you pay, I understand it’s a Chinese machine but they shouldn’t be that bad...
I have this same lathe, but mine had the Harbor Freight name on it, and although it’s 20 years old, I just acquired it still in the box! Certain parts of mine were packed with that sand/grinding dust crap while others were fairly clean. I did a total disassembly and cleanup/tweaking to be safe. The cast iron lug that rides under the ways to lock down the tailstock was an incredibly poorly cast and machined piece that broke in two after several uses. I repaired it with nickel electrode, then it broke elsewhere! Grizzly’s G4000 is the same machine, so I searched their website and found the p/n and photo. That pic showed another hideously produced part, but I ordered one anyhow, and also made one on the mill. What I received was an absolutely perfect part, so well done that I didn’t even use the one I made! There is a definite difference in these similar machines depending on the company selling them! Some evidently don’t hold the Chinese producers to any kind of quality standard! Great fix Matty!
Enjoyed...good discussion and repair...congrats
Thanks Chuck
Thank You. Your vid reminded me to try to get some oil on the worm on my old Enco. It is the same basic lathe as yours sold in the US.
I knew you do it. As my father-in-law said often someone made it I can fix it. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Yves, I surprised myself to be honest, it was either going to work or it wasn’t...
No problem with the intro, just worried your tea may go cold!.
Yes, production shortcuts, and zero quantity control, makes for a good profit with customers unable to return items, or be corrected. Getting the casting sand out is a pain, but that amount is unbelievable. Anyway, nice job for remanufacturing. Alkyd red oxide paint does a fairly good job on sealing castings, and resistant to mineral oils, the Glyptal is a full gloss enamel paint, and helps oil flow where necessary, but the Red Oxide Alkyd is plenty good enough for standard machines. Does anyone else have experience in using this?
Thanks for sharing Matty.
Best regards from the UK. John.
Gday John, the headstock did have paint in there but not enough I’d say to glue the sand to the sides, I’m going to take the apron off again and paint the back, I’m pretty confident I got 99% of the crap off, I didn’t paint it straight away because I was to excited to see if it was going to work, it’s easy to remove so it won’t be hard to paint.....
No experience with the Glyptal but I always pressure wash and abrade the insides of iron castings and then apply 2 coats of 2 pack etch primer. That seals all surfaces and ensures no further grit/sand gets free.
@@howardosborne8647 2 pack paint is difficult to beat, guessing historically that most paints were linseed oil based (excluding Cellulose, though they is obviously others), there were very few that were oil resistant, even less fuel resistant. I had a Royal Enfield engine as a youngster, only the bottom half, and it was painted a light grey/cream colour and found out it was to improve oil flow.
Glad to see I'm not the only one taking their lathe to bits right now :)
Hahahahahaha, mines all back together now mate, I didn’t go the full Monty like you have, I hope all your plans go well and safe travels, please keep in touch mate, Cheers Matty
Nice job Matty. A little forethought and ingenuity gets it done.
Gday Bob, lots of thinking went into this job, probably to much really but it worked in the end...
Hi Matty. Great bring along video. Really enjoy these types of videos. God bless buddy.
Gday Dale, thanks mate, it really was a interesting fix, took some thinking that’s for sure...
good job Matty. I enjoyed watching it. If I remember correctly there is a paint called Glyptol that is used to seal cast iron inside engines and gear boxes. The better lathes will have it inside the gear boxes. Thanks for sharing.
Good call, I was going to mention how nice a painted finish would look with that repair, 100% right on Glyptol.
ol
Gday Terry, the new lathe is painted very nicely inside the geared head, I’m going to pull the apron off again which isn’t a big job and paint it to seal the casting, it would be nice if I can get that paint in a spray can,, cheers Matty
Hi Matty, whilst disappointing your new lathe has issues, you should feel very confident that it will last many years with those top notch repairs you have done,
Gday Warren, it shouldn’t give trouble now for a while hope 🤞
Cincinatti to the rescue!
Dual feed, leadscrew like the Hercus Lathe.
Lubrication is an issue on your lathe lead, feedshaft, I wonder how Delrin Bushes would perform.
Can't remember how Hercus is set up.
My 12" lathe has separate feed shaft from the leadscrew and also runs directly in the casting but has an oil bath that I must regularly top up.
I think the manufacturer should have installed bushes so they can be replaced as you have done, the right way.
Good job Matty.
Gday Willem, the Cincinnati did a great job here, I think it’s was more then lubrication the did the damage, I hope the brass bushes hold up but there easy to replace if they fail, Cheers Matty
Nice repair Matty and if the brass bushes wear they are replacebale now you've bored out the casting 😉
Beautiful work Matty - very impressed at the setups, the extended boring job, and the remade parts. As you said if the brass bits wallow out, it's very easy to turn a new pair of top hat bushes, the difficult bit is boring out the apron accurately. Great work!
Thanks Craig, It took some nutting out to set it up and line up the bore, thank you for the advice while I was doing this, your idea worked a treat👌🏼👌🏼
Fantastic work mate I only have a small lathe but that’s in bits at the mo new paint job upgrades and new motor upgrade great to see others looking after their machines always enjoy your videos always informative and a joy to watch all the best mate stay safe god bless
Gday, you’ll feel like you have a new machine once it’s all painted up and back together, you can do a lot with a small machine, it just takes a bit longer and being mindful of rigidity, I did some big jobs on my small lathe that really surprised myself, thanks for watching mate, cheers Matty
Worked out real nice there, Matty. If the boring job hadn't turned out good you still had another couple of alternative options by milling out the 2 iron lugs completely and screw fixing a couple of new lugs made from steel with bronze bushings in the bores. Always more than one way to skin the proverbial cat.
Gday Howard, that was one idea that ran through my small brain and I was hoping it didn’t come to that, it would certainly work and be a perfect repair....
Great job....happy that it worked out for you.
G'Day Matty, rock solid methodology in that repair and it worked out beautifully. Yes, Chinese lathes from Hare and Forbes. I bought a small lathe and converted to a CNC, and the bearings seized up. The reason was all the sand in the Headstock. There was even a 4" nail embedded in the casting used to hold the core together and it was rubbing on the spindle. All they had done was spray paint over the sand to try and hold it in. I had Hare and Forbes purchase new Timken Bearings for me and I also had the Hearstock sand blasted at their cost to remove any other muck. You won't have those sorts of issues with your new Taiwanese Lathe, they are first class machines.
Cam
Gday Cam, it all worked out well in the end but I did do a lot of time wasting triple checking myself😂, I only had one crack at this repair so I had to get it right, Hare and Forbes supplied the bearings for the head stock and I think the may have been Timkin bearings, it’s funny you say about the nail, a bloke in town here brought the same lathe as mine and had the same issues with the headstock, he also got a nail out of his, I thought he was pulling my leg until he showed me a photo, I think the Chinese factory’s need to be controlled a little better and improve the quality, cheers Matty
Good video mate. I got al51g. Full of sand and grit. And the compound slide screw has small section stripped. Brand new machine needed a serious birthday. But overall it's a good little machine
Gday David, overall there not a bad machine but there’s a few faults sadly, I ended up giving the lathe to a RUclips creator in Sydney, I did replace the headstock bearings and half nuts and cleaned out all the castings from one end to the other, I was amazed how much sand I got out of it, bloody terrible to be honest, I brought a AL960B and absolutely over the moon with it, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Awesome Matty great job mate your old lathe is back 👌
Thanks Jason, it was either going to work or be a complete screw up...
Good video Matty, thank you. I know that I need to pull apart my AL-320G for various reasons (I really don't want to) but I know now to pay special attention to cleaning all of the crap out of the internal cast surfaces.
Gday, certainly worth the effort to pull it apart and give it a throughly good clean, it’s a crap job but you won’t regret it, cheers Matty
Good job Matty, well done
Cheers Phil
G’day Matty well done on the repair and getting back together and running.
Cheers
Peter
Thanks very much Peter..
Hi Marty got a bit of machinery house gear myself, I would also recommend giving the chuck on the new lathe a quick strip and clean, sad how much grit I found in mine. Great repair job.
Matty
Thanks mate, I’ll do that. Cheers Matty
Nice job and well thought out Matt
Thanks John
Nicely done. Great fix! I was thinking you'd use a steel bush, but brass is probably good for quite a long time, and quite easy to make another.
Gday Mats, I thought about steel bushes but I was worried about the lead screw wearing out to quick if it started rubbing there...
@@MattysWorkshop Yes, that's obvuiusly the other side of that coin. You either have hard stuff that doesn't wear out but wears the other part instead, or soft stuff that wears out, but doesn't wear the other half of the thing. Wearing out the leadscrew is obviously not a "better" choice.
Good job on sorting out the problem Matty.
I’ve just put a deposit on the same machine, hopefully I don’t have the same issue’s.
I guess you’re lucky you’ve got the gear to repair it. If mine 💩’s itself, I’ll be stuffed.
Gday, I really hope you don’t have the same issues, just a tip, the drive belt is quite small, it will break if you don’t use the engagement lever, start the motor first then engage the belt, you’ll know what I mean when you get it, also if you look in my videos when I had that lathe you will see I put a post under the parting tool, this made a world of difference, it’s quick and easy to make, cheers
Cheers Matt for the advice. I think one of the first things I’ll be doing is checking everything both inside and out before cranking it up. The quality control at the factory must be 💩. Artisan Makes had issues with his brand new lathe, heaps of sandy crap in the gearbox.
I might show the blokes at Machinery Warehouse some of the videos and hopefully they’ll pass it onto the mob that makes these lathes.
Nice repair, I'm a fairly new subscriber and I'm loving your videos, great explanations.
One suggestion I want to make, I've got some old machines I've done up and a small needle scaler works great for loose casting bits and sand. I hot mine from Harbor Freight Tools a few years back.
Gday Jim, great to hear your enjoying the videos, I really do need to buy a needle scaler, appreciate you taking the time to subscribe mate, Cheers
Good job mate. I wondered what that part was off when you posted the line boring pics on Instagram. Now it’s time to sell that little lathe 😉
Gday Aaron, I’m going to keep this lathe for the kids, I’ve sold the Mars Hercules lathe so I’m back to 2 lathes now, once the kids master the small lathe I let them play on the big one....
great job
Cheers David
Good repair on that one, I need to do an oil change on my lathe soon again anyway, I'll need to check again for magnetic sand in mine too . . . wasn't as bad as yours but the first oil change was gross.
Great repair. I need to do a serious repair along these lines some day on my logan. It has a worn out worm gear that will possibly need to be built from scratch
Thanks Craig, that would be some interesting channel content making a new worm gear from scratch, I haven’t got the balls to try and make anything like that yet but hopefully one day I will...
great Fix Matty, Cheers.
Thanks Robbie
You can do it Matty!
Thanks Tom, I did it mate
G'day Matty, I'm on the south coast NSW , nice job and very well done , I have the same lathe except is a AL50A . ( No Q/C G/box ) I also have the same problem with my lever going all the way on to the apron and hard to disengage it . ( But i know how to fix that Now ....Thanks ) when i brought the lathe the bloke said the lever for the half nut was seized , but in actual fact its the Half nut that has broke . so i go onto Hare & Forbes site and find the part saying its for AL50A 1.5 pitch and think great I'll just change it , .... woope doo ! BUT what they don't tell you that there's 2 different Threads on the lead screw ,1.5 and 2.0 , And the 2.0 is unavailable , and of course they want a restock fee if i return it . SO , here's my question ! Can I just simply change the lead screw from the 2.0 pitch one that's on it , To the 1.5 one to match this new half nut ? .... Of will it mess all the gears at the motor end ? ....Cheers ... Johnny.
Gday Johnny, where about on the coast are you, i've since given the lathe to another RUclips creator ( Peter from PGS) in Sydney, I honestly dont think changing the leadscrew will hurt anything, the only change will be the chart for the thread cutting and speeds and feeds will be different, im sure there would be a chart on line somewhere, I really dont understand how companies can charge a restocking fee when its a matter of putting a returns in the computer and sitting the part back on the shelf, thanks for watching mate, please let me know how you get on with the lead screw, Cheers
@@MattysWorkshop G'day Matty , Just down from Ulladulla 4 hrs down from Sydney
Hi Matty,
A very good fixed to your old lathe and it sounds like a good idea having new and old lathe in service... I know you're super pleased with your new lathe and I don't want to rain on your parade but do you think it would be worth doing some investigation work on it to see if there is the same problem, it would be better to clean the sand out know before it does any damage.
Take care
Paul,,
Gday Paul, with the new lathe I’ve already changed the oil in the headstock and apron, that was done right after I got it,..
@@MattysWorkshop I was foolish to doubt that you had not considered it... SORRY.
Nice repair Matty, I was thinking the mandrel approach, or maybe machinist button to find the axis of that bore. Thanks for the DTI technique on the boring head, I've always trusted the marks on the adjuster, now I know better. Good luck with the young un's learning on the lathe, it will be nice to see them carry on your trade. Cheers!
Gday, I thought the idea of the indicator was well known but I’ve had a few people comment in the past that they have never seen this before, I find it easier to do it this way and it’s more accurate I think and it doesn’t take much longer to adjust the head, cheers Matty
@@MattysWorkshop I forgot to mention it; that cleanup looks like a great job to use a pneumatic needle descaler, just a suggestion.
Hey Matty I'm just watching some of your earlier stuff and was wondering how you are, haven't seen you pop up for age's. I hope all is well
Danny NZ
New video out very soon
theres a circlip left over!!! nice job tho. i knew u could do it
The jobs not complete if there’s no bits left
It would be nice if you could raise the recording volume?
Justwatch this mod video mate, looks like I'll be doing the same to mine. I think that my lead screw is slightly bent from factory and H&F never wanted to replace it plus my engagement lever is out by a 1/4 turn downwards, so I've had to remove the detent ball and move it up 1 tooth.
Gday, I glad the video is helpful, this is something we shouldn’t have to do, have you checked the casting inside the headstock, mine was full of sand and had to replace the spindle bearings as well and H&F didn’t overly care at all to be honest mate, I hope you get yours repaired, let me know how you get on, cheers
@@MattysWorkshop No. I haven't checked the spindle bearings, but I will when I get some time off. I'm thinking of following your dimensions on those bushings ready for the install to the apron. For sure I'll keep you informed on how they are.
Make sure you put set screws in to hold the new bushings!
Gday Tom, I did think about that, the bushes were a good tight fit so I decided to see how they go, I’m just a little worried about the casting being to weak if I drill and tap for a set screw..
Nice
Thanks for watching
nice save matty, Ive seen what I thought was the worst of cheap chinese quality, but that is just sad how much grit and sand was still inside of that thing. Only thing I was curious about was why was it magnetic, Ive never seen any sand that was magnetic before, so thinking it may be grinding grit or something instead somehow.
Gday Chirpy, I really didn’t explain that all that well, there was a mix of sand and grinding grit, it felt very abrasive between your fingers, hard to believe just how much there was..
I was about to pull the trigger on an AL-51B, maybe not.
I’d be certainly looking around first at what else there is, cheers
I must be absolutely crap about understanding, because I understand your absolutely crap explanations perfectly! 😉
Hi Matty,although yours is particularly bad it is thing that most Chinese build hobby machinery have....casting sand .I and many others had it too...Jon from Jon,s workshop warned me about this issue on my mill.But I had similar issue with my small Warco lathe.I think the universal advice would have to be...strip them done and remove all transportation grease and other muck!Quality control and some basic care is lacking not just in China but also most brands that sell them do not seem to care much.
Yes Robert it’s sad to say the least, it’s not a cheap hobby at the best of time, I was lucky I had the other machines as well to repair it,
How much would it add to the price for them to clean things before building, I recon less than what they lose by having to replace parts under warranty if you take into consideration transport as well. Its disgraceful that when you buy something from china you need to strip them down, clean and rebuild, be it a lathe, mill, chuck or dividing head, basically anything that has castings.
Very disappointing thats for sure mate
Turgid, unplanned.
You think the Chinese would charge a dollar more for the lathe to cover their labor costs to clean out the bloody casting sand. Instead they cut too many corners now.
Gday Tom, sadly that’s the problem and ever while we keep buying the products the problem will keep happening, I was lucky and the repair worked...
@@MattysWorkshop If the brass does not hold up let me know and I can ship you a piece of oil lite bronze to make the bushings out of.
@@hilltopmachineworks2131 thanks very much Tom, I’m hoping it will be alright, only time will tell mate
Yes made in CHINA .