First: This is the most well thought out raised bed with cover and garden layout I can find on the internet! Second: If you are in the US, don't use pressure treated (The treating may be different in the UK or other countries). Seeds might germinate and grow some, but they always die if they are within 12 inches of the pressure treated. For 3 years we had a pressure treated post in our garden and everything I tried within 12 inches of the post eventually died without ever producing. After seeing a ring 24inches around of dead plants, I finally read up on pressure treating in the US. (It was left by a previous owner and I did not even consider that it might be a problem.)
Pressure treatment regulations changed about a decade ago here, it's safe now, I've noticed zero difference between plants close to the sides and those in the centre, or just growing in soil, with no treated timber. As you say though Anne, check your country : All the best - Steve
Be sure to check out this chapter of my ebook for more info steverichards.notion.site/Making-raised-beds-coldframes-and-tunnels-aa81d71a481e424b81293309723e3c0b?pvs=4 : All the best - Steve
@@SteveRichards I have been picking bits from all the videos that I watch and put them all together on my raised beds and I find the comments are also full of useful ideas.
@@terrykingsallotmentgardening I rely on guys like you to watch all those videos Terry, unfortunately I only find time for a couple a week : All the best - Steve
Excellent video. Although obvious to us gardeners you may wish to add for 'newbies' that the hotbed should be filled with fresh horse manure as the process of rotting produces the heat.
+Bill Braddick thanks Bill, I was lucky to buy a book just before I started, on the allotment year, I just did what it told me, now I've a bit more confidence so I'm experimenting
You should add this to your raised bed playlist. It’s the perfect video to describe the measurements. Can you comment on the type of timber, whether you sealed it for weather and what is the level of damage done by the weather and soil after a few years of usage?
Thanks for the tip, it should have been in that playlist! I used treated timber, I expect it to last about ten years, by then I will be ready to redesign the allotment! : All the best - Steve
@@SteveRichards Your ten year useful life on your raised bed is a good estimate. I’m building wicking raised beds with two by sixes and aquatic pond lining. I too am anticipating a ten year useful life. I’m also thinking about fall gardening and extending my growing seasons. Your gardening ideas are innovative, creative, and practical. I really like your cold frame design. Also on a more personal note, please don’t be discouraged by your setbacks. You learn more from your mistakes than your successes. We need intelligent, experienced, and creative people like you to innovate and keep on gardening.
@@smhollanshead Thanks, I'm rarely discouraged by setbacks, occasionally they sting for a few days, but generally it all works out. This year we lost 1/3 of our Brussels Sprouts to cabbage aphid, but the remaining plants grew even bigger, enjoying all of the extra space, so we got a pretty good harvest : All the best - Steve
As of Oct. 2021 with US wood prices, cedar fence pickets seem to be the longest lasting most cost effective. They need more bracing and corner bracing. I will also use lift off flag hinges, since unscrewing thin pickets is going to be less risky for the thin boards. In the US, I looked at cedar boards $$$$, composite deck boards, corrugated metal with wood, the cedar fence pickets allow you to used Steve's excellent plans with only minor additions/modifications. Again the beauty of Steve's raised bed plan is it fits in an overall plan and is very, very well thought out.
Thank you for this Steve. Fingers crossed I am about to get an allotment after being on the list for a couple years; it is very exciting times ahead, bu no doubt a lot of work. I have been debating whether or not to make raised beds with bark paths between them or go for no-dig beds straight on the ground. After seeing your setup, I think a couple raised beds at least are a must, purely for the flexibility of the lids that you use! Thank you for showing how to make them, if i make some I will send pictures!
Great news! I think no dig beds work great for market gardeners, who have a lot of space and also tend to have a lot less weed pressure and good soil. Allotments often are terrible for weeds and have poor soil and poor drainage (not all though) so true raised beds work better. For me the allotment is about enjoyment and convenience, rather than cost saving, I save way more money than I spend. Some gardeners like Charles Dowding obsess about raised beds and slugs and other issues, which in my experience are minimal issues, compared to the huge convenience and ease of wooden sided raised beds : All the best - Steve
Good luck with the plot Sharon, you might find some of the more recent videos helpful, especially the 'what I'm sowing each month' : All the best - Steve
Cheers for the reply I just worked that out as I cut the first one to 4' and your right it's difficult to reach the back. Good luck keep up with the good work
That’s also one of the reasons why I have the central divider, so that I have something to lean on when harvesting. This is especially useful in winter as I can’t kneel on the floor. The coldframe top keeps the central divider dry, so I can kneel on that and easily reach the whole bed : all the best - Steve
Great plot. I keep banging the drum heavy duty landscape fabric is king on the plot. who wants to weed all day. I even plant through it on my beds too, I burned holes at set spacings then plant or sew in the holes. The get put on different beds the next season to rotate the crops. you could have a solar powered irrigation, drip or micro sprinklers to save ur time wateringbtoo.
I agree, weed control is key to enjoying an allotment. I'm gradually transitioning over to using a thick compost mulch on my beds to control them as it's very flexible, retains water, makes watering easier and provides food for the plants, but I have 4 cubic meters of compost on the go all year round to keep up with demand. As to the drip irrigation it would cost a lot and be quite fiddly on my plot to implement and we have easy access to a hose pipe so it's not too bad.
Great video and informative,but I think it's going to be very expensive to set up especially for an oap like me, but I can't help being envious. Happy gardening my friend.
+Kevin Brown hi Kev, it was quite expensive to set it up last year, but its already paid back that investment, so from now on its profit all the way. This year I've already taken £185 worth of veg off the plot and the seasons barely started. One of the hoop tunnels is the best place to start. Good luck and thanks for subscribing, be sure to visit in August on our open day!
+Kevin Brown hi Kevin I missed this comment. The cold frames and hotbeds do cost a bit to build, but that said this year since Feb I've cropped £329 worth of veg from them, 700 bags, which is much more than they cost to build, so a payback of less than three months isn't bad going.
Hi Steve, Newbee or not, you have taught me something. All my beds are the same size to. Great idea to make the extensions which can turn any bed into a cold frame. Think I'm going to make some over the winter to use next year as part of my winter work. I've just subscribed to you. Pleae take a look at my site and leave coments. Happy gardening, Bill.
Hi Steve, Great channel. My wife and I are just starting out trying to grow fruit & veg in raised beds. Making the beds is straightforward and these are going on a area that has previous been lawn. What soil, compost etc should I put in the frames. Thanks Steve
I did the same last year for a few new beds in the back garden, this video shows that ruclips.net/video/oMNaOVsAKkw/видео.html. I like to put very well rotted horse manure at the bottom and mushroom compost at the top : All the best - Steve
Hi Rebecca, all of the sizes are shown in the video at 60 seconds in. However the basic dimensions are 8 foot by 3.5 foot, the timber is 6" by 1" for the lengths and the cross pieces are 6" by 2". These beds are excellent for salads and leafy greens, beets, radish etc. If you want to grow brassicas, potatoes etc you will need something bigger : All the best - Steve
Hi Steve. I'm currently poorly with covid and looking through some of your older videos. I really like these cold frames and wondered whether you would recommend that I turn one of my raised beds into a cold frame. I could use it for hardening off in the spring but also for low growing veggies in the winter.
Sorry to hear that Cherie, I feel for you, I've been ill for close to 6 weeks now, never bad enough to keep me fully at home, but enough to tax my normal enthusiasm for life, 3 separate colds each separated by about 4 days or normalcy. Anyway I think coldframes are great and a very cost effective upgrade and very flexible. I also did this video ruclips.net/video/VEtz6bBpBF8/видео.html and there's build instructions in the ebook. Get well soon! : All the best - Steve
@@SteveRichards Thanks Steve As soon as I feel up to it I will give it a go. If only to use up some of the wood in our garage. I do hope you feel better soon. Spring will be here soon and that will lift our spirits. X
@@TheEnglishladyskitchengarden fortunately my spirits are great, just my body, or more accurately my throat! Keeping myself amused with videos and writing while it rains
Great ideas, We have raised beds too. Might look into these covers. What is the netting that is on top of some of them? Also where did you buy the netting. Thanks
As I understand it that definitely used to be an issue a decade or so ago, but I think the wood treatment is much less toxic now. You don't have to use trated wood, but if you don't you need much thicker and more expensive wood. The treated cheap wood I use should last about 8 to 10 years. : All the best - Steve
Hi Grant, the planks I had access to were 14' so that drove the decision. However I've found that 3.5' is ideal for me, it would be very difficult to reach the back of the cold frames, where I only have access from the front if they'd been 4' wide.
First: This is the most well thought out raised bed with cover and garden layout I can find on the internet! Second: If you are in the US, don't use pressure treated (The treating may be different in the UK or other countries). Seeds might germinate and grow some, but they always die if they are within 12 inches of the pressure treated. For 3 years we had a pressure treated post in our garden and everything I tried within 12 inches of the post eventually died without ever producing. After seeing a ring 24inches around of dead plants, I finally read up on pressure treating in the US. (It was left by a previous owner and I did not even consider that it might be a problem.)
Pressure treatment regulations changed about a decade ago here, it's safe now, I've noticed zero difference between plants close to the sides and those in the centre, or just growing in soil, with no treated timber. As you say though Anne, check your country : All the best - Steve
Thank you for sharing your experience ❤
Be sure to check out this chapter of my ebook for more info steverichards.notion.site/Making-raised-beds-coldframes-and-tunnels-aa81d71a481e424b81293309723e3c0b?pvs=4 : All the best - Steve
I'm going through your older videos and another great bit of advice and info.
There’s a chapter in my book with lots more detail too, look in the basics section
@@SteveRichards I've had a dabble on your brilliant website and you've worked hard doing that well done.
Cheers Steve very informative.
♻️Happy gardening, Terry King.
I was a bit embarrassed by this video after watching your superb raised bed construction! : All the best - Steve
@@SteveRichards I have been picking bits from all the videos that I watch and put them all together on my raised beds and I find the comments are also full of useful ideas.
@@terrykingsallotmentgardening I rely on guys like you to watch all those videos Terry, unfortunately I only find time for a couple a week : All the best - Steve
@@SteveRichards ♻️👍♻️
Excellent video. Although obvious to us gardeners you may wish to add for 'newbies' that the hotbed should be filled with fresh horse manure as the process of rotting produces the heat.
I have another - later - video that's all about hotbeds where I'm pretty sure I make that clear : All the best - Steve
I've had Allotments for years and yours is very good and very well thought out , you say your new but you seem to know what you are doing well done
+Bill Braddick thanks Bill, I was lucky to buy a book just before I started, on the allotment year, I just did what it told me, now I've a bit more confidence so I'm experimenting
You should add this to your raised bed playlist. It’s the perfect video to describe the measurements. Can you comment on the type of timber, whether you sealed it for weather and what is the level of damage done by the weather and soil after a few years of usage?
Thanks for the tip, it should have been in that playlist! I used treated timber, I expect it to last about ten years, by then I will be ready to redesign the allotment! : All the best - Steve
@@SteveRichards Your ten year useful life on your raised bed is a good estimate. I’m building wicking raised beds with two by sixes and aquatic pond lining. I too am anticipating a ten year useful life. I’m also thinking about fall gardening and extending my growing seasons. Your gardening ideas are innovative, creative, and practical. I really like your cold frame design. Also on a more personal note, please don’t be discouraged by your setbacks. You learn more from your mistakes than your successes. We need intelligent, experienced, and creative people like you to innovate and keep on gardening.
@@smhollanshead Thanks, I'm rarely discouraged by setbacks, occasionally they sting for a few days, but generally it all works out. This year we lost 1/3 of our Brussels Sprouts to cabbage aphid, but the remaining plants grew even bigger, enjoying all of the extra space, so we got a pretty good harvest : All the best - Steve
BOSTIN Steve👍 like the cutting list for timber.Robbo
As of Oct. 2021 with US wood prices, cedar fence pickets seem to be the longest lasting most cost effective. They need more bracing and corner bracing. I will also use lift off flag hinges, since unscrewing thin pickets is going to be less risky for the thin boards. In the US, I looked at cedar boards $$$$, composite deck boards, corrugated metal with wood, the cedar fence pickets allow you to used Steve's excellent plans with only minor additions/modifications. Again the beauty of Steve's raised bed plan is it fits in an overall plan and is very, very well thought out.
Thanks Anne, I like it because it's quick and simple and I put a high value on my time : All the best - Steve
Thank you for this Steve. Fingers crossed I am about to get an allotment after being on the list for a couple years; it is very exciting times ahead, bu no doubt a lot of work. I have been debating whether or not to make raised beds with bark paths between them or go for no-dig beds straight on the ground. After seeing your setup, I think a couple raised beds at least are a must, purely for the flexibility of the lids that you use! Thank you for showing how to make them, if i make some I will send pictures!
Great news! I think no dig beds work great for market gardeners, who have a lot of space and also tend to have a lot less weed pressure and good soil. Allotments often are terrible for weeds and have poor soil and poor drainage (not all though) so true raised beds work better. For me the allotment is about enjoyment and convenience, rather than cost saving, I save way more money than I spend. Some gardeners like Charles Dowding obsess about raised beds and slugs and other issues, which in my experience are minimal issues, compared to the huge convenience and ease of wooden sided raised beds : All the best - Steve
Very interesting and informative video mate. Giving me ideas for my plots.
Brilliant. I am just about to take over my first plot. I found your video so helpful thank you. I will definitely be following future videos... 😁
Good luck with the plot Sharon, you might find some of the more recent videos helpful, especially the 'what I'm sowing each month' : All the best - Steve
Steve's Seaside Allotment many thanks 👍
Cheers for the reply I just worked that out as I cut the first one to 4' and your right it's difficult to reach the back. Good luck keep up with the good work
That’s also one of the reasons why I have the central divider, so that I have something to lean on when harvesting. This is especially useful in winter as I can’t kneel on the floor. The coldframe top keeps the central divider dry, so I can kneel on that and easily reach the whole bed : all the best - Steve
Great plot. I keep banging the drum heavy duty landscape fabric is king on the plot. who wants to weed all day. I even plant through it on my beds too, I burned holes at set spacings then plant or sew in the holes. The get put on different beds the next season to rotate the crops. you could have a solar powered irrigation, drip or micro sprinklers to save ur time wateringbtoo.
I agree, weed control is key to enjoying an allotment. I'm gradually transitioning over to using a thick compost mulch on my beds to control them as it's very flexible, retains water, makes watering easier and provides food for the plants, but I have 4 cubic meters of compost on the go all year round to keep up with demand. As to the drip irrigation it would cost a lot and be quite fiddly on my plot to implement and we have easy access to a hose pipe so it's not too bad.
Thank you, very clear.
Great video and informative,but I think it's going to be very expensive to set up especially for an oap like me, but I can't help being envious. Happy gardening my friend.
+Kevin Brown hi Kev, it was quite expensive to set it up last year, but its already paid back that investment, so from now on its profit all the way. This year I've already taken £185 worth of veg off the plot and the seasons barely started. One of the hoop tunnels is the best place to start. Good luck and thanks for subscribing, be sure to visit in August on our open day!
+Kevin Brown hi Kevin I missed this comment. The cold frames and hotbeds do cost a bit to build, but that said this year since Feb I've cropped £329 worth of veg from them, 700 bags, which is much more than they cost to build, so a payback of less than three months isn't bad going.
Hi Steve,
Newbee or not, you have taught me something. All my beds are the same size to. Great idea to make the extensions which can turn any bed into a cold frame. Think I'm going to make some over the winter to use next year as part of my winter work.
I've just subscribed to you. Pleae take a look at my site and leave coments.
Happy gardening,
Bill.
Hi Steve, Great channel. My wife and I are just starting out trying to grow fruit & veg in raised beds. Making the beds is straightforward and these are going on a area that has previous been lawn. What soil, compost etc should I put in the frames. Thanks Steve
I did the same last year for a few new beds in the back garden, this video shows that ruclips.net/video/oMNaOVsAKkw/видео.html. I like to put very well rotted horse manure at the bottom and mushroom compost at the top : All the best - Steve
@@SteveRichards Thank You
Brilliant cold frame tutorial and love the dimension instructions 👍🏼 Did you cut the diagonal pieces with a hand saw?
Fortunately my wood supplier cut them for me Barb : All the best - Steve
Great allotment, I'm very new too so getting it all together. Can I ask what size materials your raised beds are, it's just to get an idea. thanks
Hi Rebecca, all of the sizes are shown in the video at 60 seconds in. However the basic dimensions are 8 foot by 3.5 foot, the timber is 6" by 1" for the lengths and the cross pieces are 6" by 2". These beds are excellent for salads and leafy greens, beets, radish etc. If you want to grow brassicas, potatoes etc you will need something bigger : All the best - Steve
Hi Steve. I'm currently poorly with covid and looking through some of your older videos. I really like these cold frames and wondered whether you would recommend that I turn one of my raised beds into a cold frame. I could use it for hardening off in the spring but also for low growing veggies in the winter.
Sorry to hear that Cherie, I feel for you, I've been ill for close to 6 weeks now, never bad enough to keep me fully at home, but enough to tax my normal enthusiasm for life, 3 separate colds each separated by about 4 days or normalcy. Anyway I think coldframes are great and a very cost effective upgrade and very flexible. I also did this video ruclips.net/video/VEtz6bBpBF8/видео.html and there's build instructions in the ebook. Get well soon! : All the best - Steve
@@SteveRichards Thanks Steve As soon as I feel up to it I will give it a go. If only to use up some of the wood in our garage. I do hope you feel better soon. Spring will be here soon and that will lift our spirits. X
@@TheEnglishladyskitchengarden fortunately my spirits are great, just my body, or more accurately my throat! Keeping myself amused with videos and writing while it rains
Great ideas, We have raised beds too. Might look into these covers. What is the netting that is on top of some of them? Also where did you buy the netting. Thanks
It's called scaffold/debris netting, Amazon and eBay are good sources : All the best - Steve
@@SteveRichards Thanks
Got a quick question about using treated wood. I was told that you Didn't want the toxins to run off into the soil. How is that wood doing?
As I understand it that definitely used to be an issue a decade or so ago, but I think the wood treatment is much less toxic now. You don't have to use trated wood, but if you don't you need much thicker and more expensive wood. The treated cheap wood I use should last about 8 to 10 years. : All the best - Steve
It would be nice to know your zone !
Is there any reason that you made the 6 x 1 out of 14 'as aposed to 16' so it would be approx 4' wide instead of 3:5' wide
Hi Grant, the planks I had access to were 14' so that drove the decision. However I've found that 3.5' is ideal for me, it would be very difficult to reach the back of the cold frames, where I only have access from the front if they'd been 4' wide.
Are your cold frames still doing good?
They certainly are Carolyn, no problems so far : All the best - Steve
Hi steve, do you know the measurements of the roofing batons?
Not sure, about 2" by 1" : All the best - Steve
@@SteveRichards thanks for the reply, when we can get back in to the shops I'm going to turn some of my raised beds in to cold frames.
it does make a huge difference to the amount of food you can grow, I think probably doubles it : All the best - Steve