Used this approach for many years. suggestions. 1) The plastic will need to be removed in advance of the summer heat. Tie the plastic down instead of stapling it so that the plastic can be reused in fall or spring. 2) Critters are persistent. Use the same frame for bird netting. After draping the bird net, wrap the perimeter with wire fence. (bird net keeps birds out, but critters such as rabbits and chipmunks chew through.)
Why didn’t they show them driving back from Home Depot with the 20 ft pvc strapped to the roof of his Honda Accord? He and Roger with their hands out the window holding it steady.
Love the way the wood had pre-drilled holes where it was going to be screwed together! Kudos to HD for knowing ahead of time what it was to be used for.
Another Dave ... Camera crew... take two, we didn't catch the details on that corner because your head was in the way of the shot! (takes screw out to do over)
As one who used this video a few years ago, there is a lot of other things that should be (common sense) included. FOR INSTANCE: 1) With not much wind-blow those staples are not going to hold and pull loose (leaving holes in the plastic), one should consider using ferring strips to better secure the plastic to the skeleton. 2) When cutting the plastic for any doors/windows/etc. don't cut it even with the edges , instead cut so that the plastic covers the door/window/etc at least the with of the lumber used to frame the door/window/etc. so that the excess plastic can be (better) secured to the framing lumber (this will help to keep the edges of plastic from giving under wind forces.). and MOST IMPORTANTLY 3) make sure your hoophouse is positioned to collect the most WINTER SUN, as the winter will be the time you'll need the most solar heat.
@@dakotaavila2439I've used upholstery tacks and roofing nails. 1 5/8" deck screws work great if you intend to replace the plastic 3-5 years down the line.
Growing up I used to watch these guys on cable with my dad every night. Now I’m 23 with a wife, kid and house and now it’s come full circle. I watch these guys on youtube except now I’m the one doing the projects haha
As an amateur with woodworker, i typically feel overpowered with the entire arrangement ruclips.net/user/postUgkxrYREG3-7f1Aqk9ams3ZESRNzGnfdUtyQ . Be that as it may, this arrangements drove me through with much clarity and effortlessness woodplans. Works i now work like a genius. That is great!
When stapling the plastic to 2x4 you should have support for the staples or it will tear and blow. Use 1/8 or 1/4 inch strips of wood and staple through it.
@@roythompson6137 yup. I did my 40ft long greenhouse with them, in 2 layers. Top rail stays on all the time, lower, I remove during summer, to roll up bottom 3ft for venting. Later, it makes replacing entire plastic very easy.
A little shopping advice: always load your cart with the longest items-last. This way you don't have to navigate the isles, turns and other shoppers with long pipes/boards, etc sticking out and hitting merchandise and people.
My elderly neighbor built this and it blew away when we got strong winds. She asked me to help her rebuild it and showed me this video. 🤦🏻♂️ We rebuilt the darn thing like a shed and anchored it down. She ordered greenhouse grade plastic and has worked great.
I would... 1. Drive rebar stakes into the ground 2. Slip the PVC pipe over the stakes 3. Place edge-wise 2x4s on the inside and outside of the PVC. 4. Use bolts to clamp the PVC between the 2x4s. 5. Weight the edge down with bricks every few feet.
This Old House is now charging via their website if you want to watch the full episodes. Thumbs up if you think this is a horrible change and want the full episodes back here on RUclips!
@@goldenages7089 What pipe should have been used? What wood? Chemicalized pressure treated? How about bamboo or would that swell too much? Thank you from a non-tech viewer preparing ideas for the GRAND SOLAR MINIMUM challenges coming full speed ahead.
@@sunnyseacat9232 should use pressure treated wood if it's on the ground or getting wet.can use rebar in place of galvanized pipe it will fit inside the pvc no adaptor needed or just use the brackets they used also maybe 2x6 for the base but 2x4 works
And the best part, you're going to be an expert at erecting this greenhouse design, because you get to do it again every year, maybe two. Also, if plan to hang pots on a 12 ft span of 2x4, put a brace in the middle.
Additional materials must have magically appeared after they left the box store. Beams, anchors, more PVC, PVC cement, doors, hinges, screws and staples... plus the tools. Awesome.
True. This channel seems to think it knows everything but gives you a guide without the whole list, to make something that'll be destroyed in the first storm.
I have never had the plastic last more than one season before it splits along the seam. I have tried different ways of anchoring it but at some point I realized it is not worth buying new plastic every year just to have some kale, chard and radishes over the winter. I don't live in a super windy area but even where I live that staple job would not cut it.
May be wise to find a mesh screen to install on the lower 2/3 of the hoop house they get hot in the summer even with a fan inside and the sides rolled up 2/3 of the way !
I've made a few of these before, but your addition of the doors and the beams up top make it so much nicer. I can't wait to make a few of your version this spring. Thanks for the easy to follow video.
Actually I have a full of minded theory but when it comes this beautiful practical skills I will be zero because of its luck of experience. I appreciate for your best shared this future lesson
There is also a product that looks like a strip of channeled plastic with another strip that clips inside it that is designed to clamp your poly down at the ends, another good what is to leave enough plastic to wrap around a strip of lathe and simply screw it down, that prevents it from being torn as in the case of staples. Just remember when ordering your plastic that 12 feet wide will not finish 12' wide after termination on the ends.
Glad I read some of the comments. The PVC Pipes are 20 feet long. The shopping list gives a hot link for the 4m plastic. When I clicked on the hot link to Amazon I see about 40 different items for the plastic but out of that 40 only 3 or 4 are wider than 20 feet which unless there is another dimension where 10 feet can stretch to 20 feet (or do you double wrap or tape a seem at the top) I don't know how this will work. It looks like a beautiful design but kind of deceptive in not telling all the pieces you will need, like the galvanized pipe, wood for doors, hinges, adapters for pvc pipe, etc.
Exactly, I have been searching high and low of ways for DIY small(big enough to fit 2 of my metal shelves...about 3ft by 5ft) greenhouse that will connect to the back porch of my house BUT the trick is in TX we get a very strong wind coming thru and will blow just about anything in it's sight...so back to the drawing board. Any idea is greatly appreciated.
Ronnie Chandler the sturdiest way to secure plastic is with a C-channel and wiggle wire but if using board you need some kind of stripping. But that plastic isn’t going to hold up very long, the sun and/or wind will destroy it in no time :(
@@bucsboy78 when I used to build green houses we would roll the end of the plastic around lathe strips and drive pole barn screws threw the lathe and plastic into the bottom frame.
This was true up until 2003 when CCA was banned as a wood preservative. Today's pressure treated lumber uses ACQ which is non-toxic and safe to use for raised bed gardens, according to the EPA. But I get it if you (or anyone) would prefer to use untreated lumber - they just have to recognize that eventually the wood will rot and will need to be replaced.
Take half an inch thick strips and screw them on the stapled sides, this will keep the wind from ripping out the staples...Building windows on the ends keeps the inside cool and keeps unwanted pest out.
@@businessgoose6057 SAME! For me a house loses all the value if it has an HOA.... I have a couple of friends that can’t even put the fence they want or park their boats or rv’s...
It looks like the plants are already wilting from the heat. Great job on the project. Maybe he will get some real greenhouse plastic in the future but a great way to start.
The trip to Home Depot was quick. They bought PVC pipe, some 2x4 and some plastic. But then literally the first thing needed to start building the greenhouse was a galvanized pipe (cut to size), brackets to keep PVC in place, an augur, and corners for framing......geez. There is a bunch of stuff that was used to build the greenhouse that was not purchased at Home Depot LMAO
Should've bought some pressure treated lattice strips and rolled the plastic ends over them, them nailed through the lattice strips with roofing nails. That would've held the sheeting all across its surface on a 1.5" strip instead of just at the points where you stapled. It makes a big difference in wind conditions, especially the kind Mississippi gets.
I use the rebar also, I've had some in the ground for 2 decades, haven't had an issue yet. Also, the doors seemed like an awful lot of time , effort and cash, when just using plastic over the whole thing works just as well. I attach a 1x3 to the edge of the plastic, and then pull it up or down when it gets to hot in the summer. In Massachusetts or Maine (I have places in both) even the summer gets to hot for permanent hoop house. better to be able to use it spring and fall, then take off for July and August.
Only do this as a temporary solution. I was constantly replacing the plastic every year, then found out PVC and green house plastic react in the sunlight causing it to fail quickly. Rebuilding a new greenhouse this year, with metal pipes.
Collards are not tender annuals. Actually taste better after frost. MS is typically clay soils, high in mineral content. If you can add organics to improve drainage, you have good soil
if you put little bits of cardboard or plastic in between the staple and the plastic, it will adhere better and not rip out when the light wind hits.. Hope that helps.
@@loufarrocco7023 if u want a greenhouse that will last, buy some chain link fence top rail and have them bent at a muffler shop. Cover with uv rated plastic.
I bought a car port from harbor freight. I've been thinking of using it as a frame for a green house. Using the brackets and 2x4 at the bottom. And the ends for the doors. Thanks for the bracket idea.
They should have used tape batting for greenhouses. That way you are stapling in the tape, not the plastic which will rip around the staple in high wind.
For the staples…. Fold over a few layers of plastic, pull it tight, and the staple it! Afterwards use one inch roofing nails spaced every 6-12 inches! It’ll hold!
RUclips commentors are the most critical people. I enjoyed this even if everything wasn't perfect. Luckily we have instruction videos like this with a platform for updates for easier and more efficient ways for it to be done.
Yea, the Home Depot shopping trip was sooooo easy. Galvanized pipe, pvc couplings, screws, hinges, staples, etc. it’s not that simple or inexpensive. And yea, as mentioned, try transporting ANYTHING that’s 20 feet long!
Looks good, but you shouldn't staple the plastic to the 2x4, it'll rip in light wind. Instead of using 2x4s use two 1x4s, sandwich the plastic in between them and screw them together. Also, he used pressure treated wood on that raised bed. The chemicals from the treated wood is going to leach into the soil and contaminate his vegetables. Better to use some kind of stone or cinder block. I mean, they have the right idea if the wood is going to be in contact with the ground. But pressure treated shouldn't be used on a raised bed that grows things you're going to eat. Otherwise it's okay. '
@@forestrebock3545 For decades it was argued that the arsenic in pressure treated wood was harmless. So now there are alternatives to arsenic and again it's claimed they're harmless. The question is, do you trust those in the industry or is a little skepticism warranted? As for myself I prefer to use stone. To each their own.
Depends on which chemical your wood is treated with. The wood you buy today at the store is perfectly safe for your raised garden even touching the soil but old wood is best kept away from the soil touching your plants but for the greenhouse frame is okay. That is because of the chemical they used to treat wood with called copper arsenic.
Like the guy said, elevate an inch on some bricks. If you want to do the extra work, put some concrete block all around the perimeter, then screw the 2x4 base into that. Or screw some 2 foot lengths of 2x4 under the 2x4 base every few feet. Then replace those every 3-5 years. The plastic will be torn by then anyway, and you'll give up on the whole thing.
BEST VIDEO EVER. I LEARNED SO MUCH FROM THIS VIDEO. THANKS DONT WORRY ABOUT THE COMMENTS THEY ARE STILL LEARNING. YOU SIR ARE A PROFESSIONAL. REALLY ENJOYED THE STAPLES NICE TOUCH. THANKS AGAIN. IM READY TO BULID MY FIRST HOUSE NOW. WELL ACTUALLY ONCE I PUT MY STUFF IN IT ILL BE HOME. SO STRONG AND STURDY. WHATS THE HURRICAN RATING CAT 4 OR 5. WELL EITHER WAY I FEEL CONFIDENT YOU GAVE ME THE RIGHT TOOLS THANKS
Lots of good tips I've read here...Also, 4 mil is NOT going to work in colder climates...Once you get to the Kentucky area you need 6-8 mil after October...Unless you're in Minnesota where you'll need like 10-12 or so...
They used 1” schedule 40 PVC so thats good. But they could have saved money and used all PVC instead of adding so much wood. And they could have used rebar to help hold it down. Staples in the none uv rated plastic will tear that sheeting apart. Thats where they could have used thin slats of wood to hold down the sheeting.
Used this approach for many years. suggestions. 1) The plastic will need to be removed in advance of the summer heat. Tie the plastic down instead of stapling it so that the plastic can be reused in fall or spring. 2) Critters are persistent. Use the same frame for bird netting. After draping the bird net, wrap the perimeter with wire fence. (bird net keeps birds out, but critters such as rabbits and chipmunks chew through.)
I haven't wrapped my netting with wire fence yet, you are so very right.
Thanks 👍
Why didn’t they show them driving back from Home Depot with the 20 ft pvc strapped to the roof of his Honda Accord? He and Roger with their hands out the window holding it steady.
Was thinking the same thing
😂 lol
😆😆😆
did they have a red flag at the end of the pcv pipe? its the law
Seriously though. I have a Honda Accord and that would have been really helpful. Now I've gotta brainstorm.
Love the way the wood had pre-drilled holes where it was going to be screwed together! Kudos to HD for knowing ahead of time what it was to be used for.
Another Dave
... Camera crew... take two, we didn't catch the details on that corner because your head was in the way of the shot! (takes screw out to do over)
You can put pieces of lath over the staple rows to help hold it down, the staples alone don't hold it for very long. Trust me on this one
FISH ON i
Thats all thats needed.
Thank you!
was shocked they didnt do or show that
Why bother putting in tack strips with cheap plastic that won't last 1 winter?
As one who used this video a few years ago, there is a lot of other things that should be (common sense) included. FOR INSTANCE: 1) With not much wind-blow those staples are not going to hold and pull loose (leaving holes in the plastic), one should consider using ferring strips to better secure the plastic to the skeleton. 2) When cutting the plastic for any doors/windows/etc. don't cut it even with the edges , instead cut so that the plastic covers the door/window/etc at least the with of the lumber used to frame the door/window/etc. so that the excess plastic can be (better) secured to the framing lumber (this will help to keep the edges of plastic from giving under wind forces.). and MOST IMPORTANTLY 3) make sure your hoophouse is positioned to collect the most WINTER SUN, as the winter will be the time you'll need the most solar heat.
How do you connect the ferring strips to the skeleton
@@dakotaavila2439I've used upholstery tacks and roofing nails. 1 5/8" deck screws work great if you intend to replace the plastic 3-5 years down the line.
Growing up I used to watch these guys on cable with my dad every night. Now I’m 23 with a wife, kid and house and now it’s come full circle. I watch these guys on youtube except now I’m the one doing the projects haha
Nice looking lumber at HD - they must have known the cameras were on the way.
🤣😂🤣😂 100% agree👍👍
Oh my 😂
Lols
🤣🤣😂🤣well stated mate
@@martinflores4345 ههههه
As an amateur with woodworker, i typically feel overpowered with the entire arrangement ruclips.net/user/postUgkxrYREG3-7f1Aqk9ams3ZESRNzGnfdUtyQ . Be that as it may, this arrangements drove me through with much clarity and effortlessness woodplans. Works i now work like a genius. That is great!
When stapling the plastic to 2x4 you should have support for the staples or it will tear and blow. Use 1/8 or 1/4 inch strips of wood and staple through it.
Your better off using wiggle wire.
Yard sticks or shim work great too break them off onton1 or 2 inch sections
@@mikebolton3816then you would need the aluminium channels to fit it into...
@@roythompson6137 yup. I did my 40ft long greenhouse with them, in 2 layers. Top rail stays on all the time, lower, I remove during summer, to roll up bottom 3ft for venting. Later, it makes replacing entire plastic very easy.
A little shopping advice: always load your cart with the longest items-last. This way you don't have to navigate the isles, turns and other shoppers with long pipes/boards, etc sticking out and hitting merchandise and people.
My elderly neighbor built this and it blew away when we got strong winds. She asked me to help her rebuild it and showed me this video. 🤦🏻♂️ We rebuilt the darn thing like a shed and anchored it down. She ordered greenhouse grade plastic and has worked great.
I was going to ask about storm proofing/resistance. This may not be for me unless i shore up the design.
When they framed it in I thought they should have just expanded the framing out, cover IT with the plastic, and just not even bother with the pvc.
I guess the metal poles they hammered in didn't work as an anchor.
I would...
1. Drive rebar stakes into the ground
2. Slip the PVC pipe over the stakes
3. Place edge-wise 2x4s on the inside and outside of the PVC.
4. Use bolts to clamp the PVC between the 2x4s.
5. Weight the edge down with bricks every few feet.
😀
Joe since I wasn't paying attention at Lowe's we have added end pieces so the PVC will fit over the galvanized pipe that we bought that is too big.
He used a thinner pipe so it would bend. A larger diameter pipe would not bend as easily.
This Old House is now charging via their website if you want to watch the full episodes.
Thumbs up if you think this is a horrible change and want the full episodes back here on RUclips!
Considering they used the wrong pipe in the ground and wrong wood in contact with the ground as well, if I was you I'd look elsewhere for advice
That monthly subscription greed
@@goldenages7089 What pipe should have been used? What wood? Chemicalized pressure treated? How about bamboo or would that swell too much? Thank you from a non-tech viewer preparing ideas for the GRAND SOLAR MINIMUM challenges coming full speed ahead.
Sunny SeaCat id use this advice ngl
@@sunnyseacat9232 should use pressure treated wood if it's on the ground or getting wet.can use rebar in place of galvanized pipe it will fit inside the pvc no adaptor needed or just use the brackets they used also maybe 2x6 for the base but 2x4 works
And the best part, you're going to be an expert at erecting this greenhouse design, because you get to do it again every year, maybe two. Also, if plan to hang pots on a 12 ft span of 2x4, put a brace in the middle.
Additional materials must have magically appeared after they left the box store. Beams, anchors, more PVC, PVC cement, doors, hinges, screws and staples... plus the tools. Awesome.
Totally agree. Needs to include a parts list in the discription.
I give that plastic sheeting a year and it will fall apart in the sun
best part is during the summer when they'll have to remove the stapled tarp lol@@rudy_2299
@@rudy_2299less than a year if it's windy, the staples will tear right out of the plastic...
True. This channel seems to think it knows everything but gives you a guide without the whole list, to make something that'll be destroyed in the first storm.
Never ever pull the plastic tight ..... In the winter time it will shrink and split ... Just get the wrinkles out .... I learned the hard way.
how tight works best then?
I heard painter's plastic will last at the most 2 seasons and that greenhouse cover is the way to go.
This looks to be in Biloxi,MS... this won't last 2 years with the hurricanes anyways. Good input on the tensioning though.
It's been 2 years, is your plastic in little pieces now? The UV will harden it. You need clear or diffuse canvas.
I have never had the plastic last more than one season before it splits along the seam. I have tried different ways of anchoring it but at some point I realized it is not worth buying new plastic every year just to have some kale, chard and radishes over the winter. I don't live in a super windy area but even where I live that staple job would not cut it.
May be wise to find a mesh screen to install on the lower 2/3 of the hoop house they get hot in the summer even with a fan inside and the sides rolled up 2/3 of the way !
I've made a few of these before, but your addition of the doors and the beams up top make it so much nicer. I can't wait to make a few of your version this spring. Thanks for the easy to follow video.
I'm a plumber and would recommend painting the pvc or using some other material, because it degrades in the sunlight
Modern PVC or as it's now called, UPVC, doesn't degrade in the sun (retired plumber :) )
To secure the plastic from heavy winds and rain simply Gorilla Tape plastic where you place staples so plastic won't rip right off
Flash forward to 2021 and that was a $10,000 Hone Depot run...
You could find an old AMC Pacer, gut the interior, put it up on blocks, shoot a few holes in the floor for drainage and vola, instant greenhouse...
Scott Jones ...Nice idea but wouldn't the rust kill the soil in a couple of years??
Or fish tank.
The iron would make the plants dark green.😄
Scott Jones awesome idea
That's how the Magliozzi brothers would have done it!
Homeowner: "I just planted it! What do you think?"
Roger: "Well, I lahv da raze gahden. Habba de bamma den dah bah? Wenna can in da ma simma tahn."
Lol. I can see the accent flowing with every word
🤣🤣🤣
Homeowner: "That's great!"
(seriously, he says it like 10X)
@@ryancurtis4692 🤣
LOL that’s what I heard too
Actually I have a full of minded theory but when it comes this beautiful practical skills I will be zero because of its luck of experience. I appreciate for your best shared this future lesson
@4:03 I'm glad they didn't show that screw go right into the other guy's knee. Good edit!
There is also a product that looks like a strip of channeled plastic with another strip that clips inside it that is designed to clamp your poly down at the ends, another good what is to leave enough plastic to wrap around a strip of lathe and simply screw it down, that prevents it from being torn as in the case of staples. Just remember when ordering your plastic that 12 feet wide will not finish 12' wide after termination on the ends.
I liked this video because the comments are hilarious.
Use the uv stabilizer greenhouse covering. That plastic is such a mess when it gets crispy from all the sun. Then it's never coming out of the soil.
The pvc pipe will react with the plastic film, to solve this you simply need to paint your pvc with a base coat.
Glad I read some of the comments. The PVC Pipes are 20 feet long. The shopping list gives a hot link for the 4m plastic. When I clicked on the hot link to Amazon I see about 40 different items for the plastic but out of that 40 only 3 or 4 are wider than 20 feet which unless there is another dimension where 10 feet can stretch to 20 feet (or do you double wrap or tape a seem at the top) I don't know how this will work. It looks like a beautiful design but kind of deceptive in not telling all the pieces you will need, like the galvanized pipe, wood for doors, hinges, adapters for pvc pipe, etc.
I like this. It's a simple but practical polytunnel.
Grade school set-up.!! Now thats what we call DIY.!! 😍😍😍🖒😁🔥
That was cool. It can be very windy here. If I built that I would use at least twice the amount of PVC supports.
Pvc does not hold up in sunlight. You can paint it, but it will still get brittle.
I built mine with the grey conduit. It will last much longer.
Once the wind gets in there that plastic will rip away from those staples and be useless.
Jackie Lewis so then what's a better alternative
Exactly, I have been searching high and low of ways for DIY small(big enough to fit 2 of my metal shelves...about 3ft by 5ft) greenhouse that will connect to the back porch of my house BUT the trick is in TX we get a very strong wind coming thru and will blow just about anything in it's sight...so back to the drawing board. Any idea is greatly appreciated.
@@mandiegarrett1706 bigger staples with hold
Wrap the plastic around a 1x2 a couple times and then nail or screw it to the base.
Dig a small trench and bury the plastic
Man i believed in u man , but the moment u stapled that plastic wrap i died & so did most of plant's.
Michael Michael. What do u recommend doing?
Ronnie Chandler the sturdiest way to secure plastic is with a C-channel and wiggle wire but if using board you need some kind of stripping.
But that plastic isn’t going to hold up very long, the sun and/or wind will destroy it in no time :(
@@rnupnorthbrrrsm6123 absolutely right.. Maybe pinch the plastic with another board.. But staples?
I threw-up a little when he said “staple the plastic”
@@bucsboy78 when I used to build green houses we would roll the end of the plastic around lathe strips and drive pole barn screws threw the lathe and plastic into the bottom frame.
Very informative, thank you!
Tip: Never use pressure treated wood for a food garden, it's toxic.
This was true up until 2003 when CCA was banned as a wood preservative. Today's pressure treated lumber uses ACQ which is non-toxic and safe to use for raised bed gardens, according to the EPA. But I get it if you (or anyone) would prefer to use untreated lumber - they just have to recognize that eventually the wood will rot and will need to be replaced.
For framing it should be fine. It is not touching the garden soil.
Take half an inch thick strips and screw them on the stapled sides, this will keep the wind from ripping out the staples...Building windows on the ends keeps the inside cool and keeps unwanted pest out.
Should have used Greenhouse grade plastic . At least 6mil. Plus the plastic coming in contact with the PVC will make it degrade over time.
Ok
Neither the 4 mil plastic nor the PVC pipe that they used in this video are UV resistant. I'll be amazed if that greenhouse lasts more than two years.
Woohoo! I said the same thing!
thanks for the tip, another good one!
Didn't use PT wood either, and the galvanised conduit they drove for stakes will rust.
This was a piss poor 'how to' video
I work at home depot. Glad they had all the bays stocked nice
...and then one of his busy-body neighbors files a complaint with the HOA for violating the CC&Rs.
Jay Nielsen I was thinking the same
I usually just ignore the neighbors and the HoA has work great for me
If you live in an HOA you get what you deserve my friends.
Imagine paying actual money for your neighbors to spy on you!?
@@businessgoose6057 SAME! For me a house loses all the value if it has an HOA....
I have a couple of friends that can’t even put the fence they want or park their boats or rv’s...
It looks like the plants are already wilting from the heat. Great job on the project. Maybe he will get some real greenhouse plastic in the future but a great way to start.
The trip to Home Depot was quick. They bought PVC pipe, some 2x4 and some plastic. But then literally the first thing needed to start building the greenhouse was a galvanized pipe (cut to size), brackets to keep PVC in place, an augur, and corners for framing......geez. There is a bunch of stuff that was used to build the greenhouse that was not purchased at Home Depot LMAO
found out using pvc pipe, plastic will have to be replaced yearly because of chemical reaction between the two. looks great.
"Tom Silva Eat your heart out" Hope those were galvanized staples :D
awesome, I would have liked to see this sooner because the vegetables we grew, died, now I know how to protect them
Let's get this done in the back yaaad!
Watching this in grade 10 due to our agricultural research contains the best option of building a Green House
Fantastic craftsmanship, a fantastic idea, thank you, would love to make one like that!
Should've bought some pressure treated lattice strips and rolled the plastic ends over them, them nailed through the lattice strips with roofing nails. That would've held the sheeting all across its surface on a 1.5" strip instead of just at the points where you stapled. It makes a big difference in wind conditions, especially the kind Mississippi gets.
Much easier if you were to use rebar instead of steel pipe for the support base.
Never heard of a string trimmer?
rebar rusts
Cv
@@albertleppo8139 it will outlast the wood that's sitting on the ground.
I use the rebar also, I've had some in the ground for 2 decades, haven't had an issue yet. Also, the doors seemed like an awful lot of time , effort and cash, when just using plastic over the whole thing works just as well. I attach a 1x3 to the edge of the plastic, and then pull it up or down when it gets to hot in the summer. In Massachusetts or Maine (I have places in both) even the summer gets to hot for permanent hoop house. better to be able to use it spring and fall, then take off for July and August.
Only do this as a temporary solution. I was constantly replacing the plastic every year, then found out PVC and green house plastic react in the sunlight causing it to fail quickly. Rebuilding a new greenhouse this year, with metal pipes.
Question, why did you not center the frame over the bed? He has to have really long arms to reach 4 ft into the garden especially when they grow.
andrew Free -he’s just going to climb right in and sit inside it like a sandbox
You go to the store for the materials but there are things that were not mentioned like the pipes, clamps, adapters, screws, staples.
"Tom Silva eat your heart out." LOL.
I bet tom silva is laughin his arse off, night and day.
What ever happened to that guy?
I can across an awesome collection of videos that may help on Fast track grower
Haha
What size is the 4 ml plastic use for 10x12 ?? Thanks
Collards are not tender annuals. Actually taste better after frost.
MS is typically clay soils, high in mineral content. If you can add organics to improve drainage, you have good soil
No warning saying call before you drill/dig?
if you put little bits of cardboard or plastic in between the staple and the plastic, it will adhere better and not rip out when the light wind hits.. Hope that helps.
I've seen lots of greenhouses built this way. In every one a chemical reaction between the sheet and pvc dissolved the sheet where the two meet.
So what's the solution to this? Does this happen with UV rated plastic? Appears they did NOT use UV rated plastic in the video.
@@loufarrocco7023 if u want a greenhouse that will last, buy some chain link fence top rail and have them bent at a muffler shop. Cover with uv rated plastic.
I bought a car port from harbor freight. I've been thinking of using it as a frame for a green house. Using the brackets and 2x4 at the bottom. And the ends for the doors. Thanks for the bracket idea.
One wind and that's toast. It's held by staples only. Lol
They should have used tape batting for greenhouses. That way you are stapling in the tape, not the plastic which will rip around the staple in high wind.
I don’t think it’s windy in south east US, the tornados only happen north of there they avoid Mississippi
Eric Moulton we have hurricanes.
Ross Treloar r/woooosh
Eric Moulton I’m from Florida, we don’t really get tornados 🤷🏼♂️
With water you can sink that pipe into the ground. Another option if you have garden hose and decent amount of water on hand.
De vários vídeos que assisti , este realmente me deu coragem de por em prática!
Parabéns!
you can also use strong pipes instead of wood at the bottom so it doesnt rot.
Make a frame on each end to fit a box fan for ventilation
For the staples…. Fold over a few layers of plastic, pull it tight, and the staple it! Afterwards use one inch roofing nails spaced every 6-12 inches! It’ll hold!
They skipped over the construction of the doors. Might they have covered that elsewhere?
A plastic single layer high tunnel is actually colder at night, because the air is still, so you will need somekind of heath source
2:09 Drills crooked and uses his thumb to press the trigger. Great skills Roger.
Most of what he's growing wont have any issue with a frost.
His ground is better than the dirt we use in our gardens in the NE.
I love this, better than watching a novela.
RUclips commentors are the most critical people. I enjoyed this even if everything wasn't perfect. Luckily we have instruction videos like this with a platform for updates for easier and more efficient ways for it to be done.
Awesome! I could do this easily myself, It would be a great temporary cover to grow in the summer.
Yea, the Home Depot shopping trip was sooooo easy.
Galvanized pipe, pvc couplings, screws, hinges, staples, etc. it’s not that simple or inexpensive. And yea, as mentioned, try transporting ANYTHING that’s 20 feet long!
Anyone ever see those videos of Porta John's flying through the air?
Roger is my hero!
Great video! Just what I need for my daughter's garden.
I'd use screws and fender washers to secure the plastic. Staples wont last long..
Looks good, but you shouldn't staple the plastic to the 2x4, it'll rip in light wind. Instead of using 2x4s use two 1x4s, sandwich the plastic in between them and screw them together.
Also, he used pressure treated wood on that raised bed. The chemicals from the treated wood is going to leach into the soil and contaminate his vegetables. Better to use some kind of stone or cinder block. I mean, they have the right idea if the wood is going to be in contact with the ground. But pressure treated shouldn't be used on a raised bed that grows things you're going to eat. Otherwise it's okay.
'
Take a look at the new method of creating pressure treated wood after 2003, you may be delightfully surprised.
@@forestrebock3545
For decades it was argued that the arsenic in pressure treated wood was harmless. So now there are alternatives to arsenic and again it's claimed they're harmless. The question is, do you trust those in the industry or is a little skepticism warranted? As for myself I prefer to use stone. To each their own.
Riri Natt. You are welcome. I am going through the same process building a hoop house in southern Ontario Canada.
Best part was: “Tom Silva, eat ya haht out!”
Richard Cabrera - HAHAHA! Tom Silva’s home cryin in his beeya!
I liked "what if i told you"
With the accent of course. Lol
super pomysł na konstrukcję ale folię trzeba domocować, docisnąć listwą, pierwszy podmuch i porwie się na zszywkach.
But how well does it fly when the tornados hit?
Charles Damery Funny! :-)
perfectly
Charles Damery last spotted flying over Kansas
hopefully this helps me build my grandfathers greenhouse
Any concern about the pressure treated wood chemicals seeping into the ground and then into the vegetables?
Depends on which chemical your wood is treated with. The wood you buy today at the store is perfectly safe for your raised garden even touching the soil but old wood is best kept away from the soil touching your plants but for the greenhouse frame is okay. That is because of the chemical they used to treat wood with called copper arsenic.
Stapling direct over plastic is not a good idea. It should be stapled with a rubber material. Also how durable is it holding up against strong winds?
Bare wood in constant contact with moist ground. I wonder how long it will hold against rot, even if impregnated.
Just elevate the wood an inch or so from the ground.
+Anders Spælling and defeat the entire purpose of the greenhouse which is to keep the air inside and hot.
Chris Searle a few milimeters Will not make a difference
Chris Searle its pressure treated wood. It'll hold up for quite sometime
Like the guy said, elevate an inch on some bricks. If you want to do the extra work, put some concrete block all around the perimeter, then screw the 2x4 base into that. Or screw some 2 foot lengths of 2x4 under the 2x4 base every few feet. Then replace those every 3-5 years. The plastic will be torn by then anyway, and you'll give up on the whole thing.
Use a 90 elbow at the top to make a Gothic arch that will help it shed snow.
I bret I could adapt this to make a solar kiln to dry lumber that I milled with an Alaskan Mill..
Collard greens are not tender in 7b. We've had them through snow, ice and a week of 7° temps. They survived and we ate them.
BEST VIDEO EVER. I LEARNED SO MUCH FROM THIS VIDEO. THANKS DONT WORRY ABOUT THE COMMENTS THEY ARE STILL LEARNING. YOU SIR ARE A PROFESSIONAL. REALLY ENJOYED THE STAPLES NICE TOUCH. THANKS AGAIN. IM READY TO BULID MY FIRST HOUSE NOW. WELL ACTUALLY ONCE I PUT MY STUFF IN IT ILL BE HOME. SO STRONG AND STURDY. WHATS THE HURRICAN RATING CAT 4 OR 5. WELL EITHER WAY I FEEL CONFIDENT YOU GAVE ME THE RIGHT TOOLS THANKS
I pray this is sarcasm.......
I think if a hurricane hits, losing your greenhouse would be the least of your problems.
What???? I can't hear you cap lock clown.
Lots of good tips I've read here...Also, 4 mil is NOT going to work in colder climates...Once you get to the Kentucky area you need 6-8 mil after October...Unless you're in Minnesota where you'll need like 10-12 or so...
augers into buried gas line... OOOPS!
Always call before you dig. You can call 811 anywhere in the US or use their website Call811.com.
@@dlb41880 Don't think they would mark for a backyard, out front yard, I believe.
That thing will fry the plants from April into October anywhere south of Tennessee unless the sides roll up and possibly a high-point vent
Is the pressure treated wood safe seeing that it makes contact with the food that is grown and consumed?
Salvatore Saccoccio well, it has arsenic, so, figure out.
It's fine. research.
Better than the poisoned stuff at the store for sure.
They used 1” schedule 40 PVC so thats good. But they could have saved money and used all PVC instead of adding so much wood. And they could have used rebar to help hold it down.
Staples in the none uv rated plastic will tear that sheeting apart. Thats where they could have used thin slats of wood to hold down the sheeting.
Love the dialog, so spontaneous
Roger said "Tom Sylva eat your heart out" lol. I love the guys. nice job Roger I will do one like this.
Get some robert's screws and they won't slip and skip so much.
Just got an impact driver for driving screws - love it. No more stripped phillips heads. fyi